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TRAVELS 


N.ORTH-  AM  ERICA, 

IN  THE 

YEARS   17SO— 81—82. 

BY  THE 

MARQUIS  DE  CIIASTELLUX, 

ONE  OF  THE  FORTY  MEMBERS  OF  THE  TRENCH  ACADEMY,  AND  MAJOR-GENERAL 
IN  THE  FRENCH  ARMY,  SERVING  UNDER  THE  COUNT  DE  ROCHAMBEAU. 

TRANSLATED 
FROM  THE  FRENCH,  BY  AN  ENGLISH  GENTLEMAN, 

1VHO  RESIDED  IN  AMERICA  AT  THAT  PERIOD. 

WITH  NOTES  BY  THE  TRANSLATOR. 

ALSO, 

A  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH  OF  THE  AUTHOR : 

LETTERS 

FROM  GEN.  WASHINGTON  TO  THE  MARQUIS  DE  CIU.STELLUX  : 


NOTES  AND  CORI^flONS, 


BY   THE   AMERICAN 


NEW-YORK: 

1828. 


CS 

\9 


PREFACE 

TO  THE  AMERICAN  EDITION 


As  a  memorial  of  the  conflict  which  made  the  United  States 
one  of  the  nations  of  the  earth,  and  a  sketch  of  the  features 
of  the  country,  with  some  of  the  principal  arbiters  of  its  desti 
ny  in  that  momentous  period,  the  TRAVELS  OF  THE  MARQUIS 
DE  CHASTELLUX  will  ever  hold  an  honourable  place  in  the  in 
terest  and  feelings,  either  of  the  American  patriot  or  mere 
speculative  reader.  In  following  his  narrative,  however,  it 
will  readily  be  perceived,  that  the  Author,  a  man  of  science, 
reflection,  and  literary  habits,  wrote  more  for  private  and  indi 
vidual  gratification,  than  for  critical  scrutiny  or  the  public  eye. 
Hence  the  numerous  little  incidents  and  circumstances,  the 
trivial  anecdote  and  immaterial  remark,  designed  only  for  a 
confidential  and  friendly  ear ;  blended  with  the  serious  obser 
vations  and  profound  reflections  on  the  state  of  society,  the 
origin  and  progress  of  events,  and  the  probable  future  condi 
tion  of  our  embryo  republic.  In  preparing  this  work  for  an 
extensive  impression,  to  an  English  mind  it  would  appear,  that 
much  of  his  tea-table  chit-chat  and  travelling  memoranda 
might  as  well  have  been  omitted ;  while  on  the  graver  and 
more  weighty  subjects  of  his  inquiries,  he  will  be  perused  with 
fixed  regard  and  the  deepest  attention.  A  proficient  in  all  the 
accomplishments  of  the  most  polished  court  in  Europe,  alrea 
dy  distinguished  by  his  literary  attainments  and  productions, 


M164316 


4  PREFACE. 

accustomed  to  modes  of  conduct  and  habits  of  thinking,  so 
dissimilar  to  what  might  be  expected  from  the  retired  man 
ners,  the  contracted  sentiments,  and  the  entire  new  scenes, 
furnished  by  our  home-bred  rustics,  it  is  not  extraordinary  that 
some  of  his  remarks  seem  rather  deficient  in  that  frankness 
and  courtesy,  which  generally  prevail  throughout  his  work. 
In  solitary  hamlets  and  unpeopled  forests,  he  could  not  look 
for  the  balls,  the  theatres,  and  the  levees  of  Paris.  But  he 
found  a  sturdy,  honest,  and  intelligent  yeomanry,  rough  as 
the  soil  they  cultivate,  resolved  to  defend  their  independence 
against  a  host  of  mercenaries,  and  successful  in  their  object. 

The  uncommon  merit  of  the  French  officers  and  soldiery, 
in  their  strict  and  exemplary  demeanour  throughout  the  con 
flict,  well  deserves  the  encomium  it  has  received.  In  no  in 
stance  was  it  known,  that  so  much  injury  had  been  sustained 
by  the  inhabitants,  from  a  regiment  or  brigade  of  the  disci 
plined  allies,  as  from  a  single  company  of  the  native  militia. 

The  picture  of  our  country,  drawn  by  the  hand  of  a  master, 
in  traits  undoubtedly  correct  as  far  as  they  go,  after  a  progress 
of  nearly  half  a  century,  cannot  but  be  reviewed  with  pleasure 
and  gratulation  by  the  American  citizen,  delighted  with  the 
present  condition  of  the  land  of  his  nativity,  and  animated 
with  its  future  prospects.  In  our  improved  method  of  travel 
ling,  the  Marquis  would  have  reached  West  Point  from  Provi 
dence,  the  long  and  tedious  distance  he  so  minutely  describes, 
from  town  to  town  and  house  to  house,  on  the  same  roads,  very 
comfortably  in  fifty  hours. 

We  have  not  admired  the  taste  of  the  Translator,  in  some 
of  his  notes ;  and  occasionally  an  observation  of  the  Author  is 
omitted,  in  a  case  where  he  would  not,  on  the  same  occasion, 
have  offered  it  to  a  Protestant  neighbour.  Yet  when  we  keep 
in  view  his  character  as  a  stranger,  a  Frenchman,  and  a  Ro 
man  Catholic,  we  must,  admit  that  he  displays  no  common 


PREFACE.  5 

degree  of  discernment,  of  frankness,  of  good  sense  and 
liberality,  in  his  discussion  of  the  various  topics  before  him ; 
many  of  which  have  proved  the  soundness  of  his  abstract  rea 
soning,  while  others,  from  local  or  incidental  causes,  have  exhi 
bited  effects  widely  different  from  the  Author's  anticipations. 

The  letters  from  Gen.  Washington  to  the  Author,  are  ex 
tracted  from  the  New- York  Literary  Journal,  of  1S20-],  into 
which  they  were  copied  from  the  original  manscripts  of  Ma 
dame  Chastellux,  after  the  death  of  her  husband.  They  de 
tract  nothing  from  the  amiable,  the  patriotic,  and  the  philoso 
phical  character  of  their  illustrious  writer. 

This  edition  of  the  Marquis'  work,  is  copied  from  an  Eng 
lish  translation,  in  two  volumes,  published  in  1787.  In  its 
consolidated  and  economical  form,  it  will  doubtless  be  an  ac 
ceptable  addition  to  the  literary  and  historical  reading  of  our 
country.  Unwilling  that  the  mistakes  of  the  intelligent  Au 
thor  and  his  Translator  should  be  extended  and  perpetuated 
by  this  first  American  impression,  the  editor  has  added  a  vari 
ety  of  NOTES  and  CORRECTIONS,  which  it  has  been  deemed  pre 
ferable  to  place  at  the  end  of  the  volume,  instead  of  inserting 
them  at  the  foot  of  the  pages  to  which  they  respectively  refer, 
as  the  notes  of  the  Translator  already  occupy  so  large  a  por 
tion  of  the  work.  For  the  sake  of  method  and  perspicuity, 
he  has  divided  the  whole  into  Parts  and  Chapters,  to  which 
he  has  prepared  and  adapted  the  Table  of  Contents. 


ADVERTISEMENT 

TO  THE  FRENCH  EDITION. 


THE  public  have  been  long  informed  that  the  Marquis  de  Chastel- 
lux  had  written  Journals  of  his  Travels  in  North-America,  and  they 
seem  to  have  wished  to  see  those  Journals  more  generally  diffused. 
The  Author,  who  had  arranged  them  solely  for  himself  and  for  his 
friends,  has  constantly  refused  to  make  them  public  until  this  moment. 
The  first  and  most  considerable,  in  fact,  were  printed  in  America ; 
but  only  twenty-four  impressions  were  struck  off,  and  this  with  no 
other  view  than  to  avoid*  the  multiplying  of  copies,  which  were  be 
come  indispensably  necessary,  in  a  country  and  at  a  time  when  there 
was  very  little  hope  of  any  packets  reaching  Europe,  but  by  the  means 
of  duplicates.  Besides  that,  he  thought  proper  to  avail  himself  of 
the  small  printing  press  on  board  the  squadron  at  Rhode-Island.  Of 
these  twenty-four  impressions,  not  above  ten  or  twelve  reached  Eu 
rope,  and  the  Author  had  addressed  them  all  to  persons  on  whom  he 
could  rely,  and  whom  he  had  requested  not  to  suffer  any  copies  to  be 
taken.  The  curiosity,  however,  which  every  thing  respecting  Ameri 
ca  at  that  time  inspired,  excited  much  anxiety  to  read  them.  They 
passed  successively  through  a  great  many  hands,  and  there  is  reason 
to  believe  that  the  readers  have  not  all  been  equally  scrupulous  ;  nor  / 
can  it  even  be  doubted  that  there  exist  some  manuscript  copies, 
which  being  hastily  executed,  may  be  presumed  to  be  incorrect. 

In  the  spring  of  1782,  the  Marquis  de  Chastellux  made  a  journey 
into  Upper  Virginia  ;  and,  in  the  autumn  of  the  same  year,  another 
into^the^States  of  Massachusetts,  and  New-Hampshire,  and  the  back 
part  of  Pennsylvania.  According  to  custom,  he  wrote  journals  of 
these  expeditions ;  but,  being  on  his  return  to  Europe,  he  reserved 
them  to  himself.  These  therefore  are  known  only  to  a  few  friends, 
to  whom  he  lent  them  ;  for  he  invariably  denied  the  request  of  many 


ADVERTISEMENT. 

persons,  and  particularly  our  own,  to  empower  us  to  lay  them  before 
the  public.  One  of  his  friends  however,  who  has  a  very  extensive 
correspondence  in  foreign  countries,  having  pressed  him  much  to  fur 
nish  him  with  at  least  a  few  detached  extracts  from  these  journals,  for 
the  purpose  of  inserting  them  in  a  periodical  work  printed  at  Gotha, 
the  object  of  which  is  to  collect  such  works  as  have  not  been  made 
public,  he  consented  ;  and,  during  a  whole  year,  there  appeared  in 
each  number  of  this  Journal  a  few  pages  taken  here  and  there  from 
those  of  the  Marquis  de  Chastellux.  These  extracts  were  not  in  a 
regular  series,  and  were  indiffently  taken  from  the  first  and  second 
parts  of  the  Travels.  The  Author  had  used  this  precaution,  to  pre 
vent  the  foreign  booksellers  from  collecting  them,  and  imposing  them 
on  the  public  as  a  complete  work.  Experience  has  proved  the  insuf 
ficiency  of  this  precaution.  A  printer  of  Cassel,  without  any  scruple, 
has  collected  these  detached  extracts,  and  without  announcing  that 
they  had  no  coherency,  has  printed  them  under  the  title  of  Voyages 
de  Monsieur  le  Chevalier  de  Chastellux,  the  name  the  Author  bore 
two  years  ago. 

The  publication  of  a  work  so  mutilated  and  unmethodical,  and 
which  the  Marquis  de  Chastellux  by  no  means  expected,  so  far  from 
flattering,  could  not  but  be  displeasing  to  him.  We  deemed  this  a 
proper  opportunity  for  renewing  our  instances  to  him,  and  have,  in 
consequence,  obtained  his  original  manuscript  We  have  lost  no 
time  in  giving  it  to  the  public,  and  have  exerted  the  utmost  pains  to 
render  it,  from  the  execution,  worthy  of  the  importance  of  the  sub 
ject,  and  of  the  name  and  reputation  of  the  Author. 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH 

OF  THE  MARQUIS  DE  CHASTELLUX. 


THE  Marquis  de  Chastellux  was  of  an  ancient  family  in  Bour- 
gogne,  and  was  born  in  Paris,  in  1734.  In  his  early  childhood 
he  lost  his  father,  who  was  Lieutenant-General  in  the  army  of 
the  king,  and  commandant  in  Roussillon.  He  entered  the  ser 
vice  atjfifteen  years  of  age,  and  at  twenty-one,  had  the  com 
mand  of  a  regiment :  a  short  time  after  he  obtained  the  com 
mand  of  a  regiment  of  his  own  name.  He  served  during  the 
seven  years'  war  in  Germany,  with  credit  to  himself  and  coun 
try.  But,  even  among  the  busy  and  boisterous  scenes  of  hos 
tile  movements,  he  pursued  at  every  interval,  his  favourite  lite 
rary  studies.  The  activity  of  his  mind  was  equal,  in  a  high 
degree,  to  his  thirst  for  knowledge.  A  sincere  desire  to  be 
useful  to  mankind,  and  firmness  to  encounter  every  danger  to 
gratify  that  desire,  were  characteristics  of  his  mind. 

When  the  subject  of  inoculation  for  the  small  pox  was  intro 
duced,  it  was  difficult  to  procure  a  subject  who  was  willing  to 
submit,  to  the  then  untried  experiment  in  France.  Chastellux, 
though  a  youth  of  about  twenty  years  of  age,  offered  to  submit 
to  the  experiment.  After  his  recovery,  he  called  upon  a  friend, 
and  made  use  of  the  following  noble  expression  :  "  Here  I 
am,  safe  ;  and  what  is  still  more  gratifying  to  me  is,  that,  by 
niy  example,  I  shall  be  the  means  of  saving  many  others." 

In  1780  he  accompanied  the  army  commanded  by  Lieute 
nant-General  Count  Rochambeau  to  the  United  States ;  in 
which  army,  he  held  the  rank  of  Major-General.  In  this  sta 
tion  he  never  ceased  to  give  proofs  of  activity,  knowledge,  and 
firmness  ;  by  which  he  received,  not  only  the  applause  of  his 
King,  and  the  American  Commander-in-Chief,  but  even  of  their 
enemies.  In  this  service,  he  was  particularly  distinguished  by 
that  penetrating  judge  of  merit,  General  Washington.  An  in 
timate  and  sincere  friendship  took  place  between  them,  which 
ended  only  with  their  lives. 


BIOGRAPHY 


He  held  a  distinguished  rank  among  the  literary  characters 
of  France  ;  and  some  of  his  works  are  esteemed  among  ;  the 
most  valuable  productions  of  the  age.  He  died  in  1788 
leaving  an  accomplished  and  amiable  widow,  and  an  «&"*«£, 
Alfred,  who  appears  to  possess  the  active  deposition  of  hs  fa- 
fher  ;  and  promises,  like  him,  to  pursue  the  road  to  usefulness 

anThemMarquis  of  Chastellux  was  taken  from  the  world,  at  a 
time  when  the  services  of  such  men  were  most  needed  ;  but 
pTrhaps,  he  might,  as  well  as  the  numerous  friends  he  left  be 
hind,  have  been  overwhelmed  by  the  torrent  of  anarchy,  which, 
soon  after  his  death,  spread  terror  and  devastation  over  •  h»  be 
loved  country.  He  was  a  sincere  friend  of  rational  liberty  , 
but  possessed  too  much  firmness  and  integrity  to  have  been  ,  a 
silent  spectator  of  that  licentiousness  which,  under  the  per 
verted  name  of  liberty,  was  the  most  horrid  of  all  tyrannies. 


CONTENTS, 


PART  I. 

Journal  of  a  Tour  from  Newport  to  Philadelphia,  Albany,  <£c. 

.  Page, 

CHAPTER  L— The  author  leaves  Newport.  Arrival  at  Providence— de 
scription  of  that  town.  Voluntown.  Description  of  the  country  between 
Voluntown  and  Windham.  East  Hartford.  Particulars  relative  to  the 
state  of  Vermont— origin  of  the  name.  Arrival  at  Hartford.  Visit  to  Gov. 
Trumbull.  Interesting  fact.  Departure  from  Hartford.  Description  of 
the  country.  Manufactures,  &c 17 

CHAPTER  II.— Sets  out  for  Litchfield.  Observations  on  the  nomenclature 
of  the  Americans.  Meets  a  park  of  Artillery.  Litchfield.  Beautiful 
landscapes.  Fishkill.  The  Barracks.  Leaves  Fishkill.  Barracks  for  In 
valids.  Beautiful  prospects.  General  Heath  at  the  head  of  2500  men  in 
battle  array.  West-Point.  General  Heath's  orders  to  General  Stark.  .  33 

CHAPTER  III.— Particulars  of  General  Heath.  Fortifications  at  West- 
Point.  Descends  the  North  river.  Description  of  the  country.  Fort 
Clinton — how  attacked  and  taken.  Particulars  of  King's  Ferry.  Stoney- 
Point  and  Verplanck's-Point.  Arnold's  treason.  Vulture  sloop  of  war. 
Camp  of  the  Marquis  de  la  Fayette.  Totohaw  [Passaic]  Falls.  Washing 
ton's  Head  Quarters 48 

CHAPTER  IV. — The  army  in  battle  array.  American  General  Officers. 
A  young  man  with  a  monstrous  head.  General  Knox.  Character  of  Ge 
neral  Washington.  Morristown.  Ancient  camp  at  Middlebrook.  De 
scription  of  the  country.  Positions  occupied  by  the  English.  Greggtown. 
Princeton — description  of  its  College.  Battles  of  Princeton.  .  .  .65 

CHAPTER  V. — Trenton.  Position  of  the  Hessians  when  they  laid  down 
their  arms.  Remarks.  Bristol.  Description  of  the  country.  Philadel 
phia.  Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne.  Mrs.  Bache,  daughter  of  Dr.  Franklin. 
Robert  Morris.  .  •  86 

CHAPTER  VI.— Battle  of  Germantown.  Samuel  Adams.  Anecdote. 
House  in  which  Congress  assembled.  Assembly  of  Pennsylvania.  Cabinet 
of  Natural  History.  Orrery.  Anatomies.  Battle  of  Brandy  wine,  .  10£ 


12  CONTENTS. 

Page 

CHAPTER  VII.— Chester.  Fort  Billingsport.  Fort  Mifflin.  Delaware 
river  barricaded.  Fort  Redbank — unsuccessful  attack.  Principles  of  the 
Revolution  of  America.  New  Constitution  of  Massachusetts  Bay.  A  Ball. 
A  Quaker.  Quaker  meeting.  English  Church.  . .  .  .  •  -120 

CHAPTER  VIII.— Germantown.  White  Marsh.  English  camp.  Barren 
Hill.  La  Fayette.  English  lines.  Mr.  Peters,  Secretary  at  War.  Mr. 
Payne,  author  of  "  Common  Sense" — character  of  that  celebrated  writer. 
Subscription  Ball.  Ridiculous  story.  Academy  at  Philadelphia.  Che 
valier  de  la  Luzerne ;  .  . 

CHAPTER  IX.— Observations  on  Philadelphia.  Princeton.  Militia  Colo 
nel—courageous  action  of  his  son.  Baskenridge.  Pompton.  Dutch 
Farms.  A  savage  country.  Reflections.  New- Windsor.  General  Wash 
ington.  Sets  out  for  Albany.  Agriculture  of  Dutchess  County.  Whim 
sical  mistake.  Trade  of  Canada.  Anecdote  of  Arnold.  Road  to  Kinder- 
hook.  Curiosities.  .  .  .  \  '  .  ••.••.,•"*•  *  151 

CHAPTER  X.— Arrival  at  Albany.  Dines  with  General  Schuyler— par 
ticulars  of  the  General  and  his  family.  Sets  out  for  Schenectady.  De 
scription  of  the  country.  Cohoes  Falls.  Mohawk  river.  Return  to  Al 
bany.  Plans  for  carrying  on  the  war  in  Canada.  Journey  to  Schenectady. 
Indians— their  huts.  Leaves  Albany  for  Saratoga.  Accident.  Camp  on 
Bream's  Heights.  Battles  between  Generals  Gates  and  Burgoyne.  Sara 
toga.  .  •'"••' *  * 

CHAPTER  XI.— Journey  to  Fort  Edward.  Great  Cataract.  Miss  Mac- 
Rea.  General  Burgoyne.  Anecdotes.  Return  to  Albany.  New- Year's 
Day.  A  thaw.  Leaves  Albany.  Accident.  Nobletown.  Sheffield. 
The  Green  Woods.  Arrival  at  New-Hartford.  Singular  Conversation. 
Extraordinary  Rock.  Lebanon.  Squirrel  Hunting.  Voluntown.  Pro 
vidence.  Return  to  Newport. 

PART  II. 

Journal  of  a  Tour  in  Upper  Virginia,  in  the  Apalachian  Mountains, 
and  to  the  Natural  Bridge. 

CHAPTER  I-— The  author  leaves  Williamsburgh.  Cornwallis'  Army. 
New-Kent  Court-House.  Offly.  General  Nelson  and  j  family.  Willis' 
Tavern.  Cock  Fight.  Louisa  Court-House.  An  Irishman.  Monticello. 
Portrait  of  Mr.  Jefferson. 

CHAPTER  II.— Charlotteville.  Marquis  de  la  Rouerie.  A  Tame  Wolf. 
Mr.  Jefferson's  Park.  Battle  of  Cowpens.  The  Gap.  A  Pheasant. 

0QA 

Praxton's  Tavern 

CHAPTER  III.— Sets  out  for  the  Natural  Bridge.  Description  of  it.  Ac 
count  of  a  young  man  and  his  wife  going  to  settle  in  Kentucky.  Kills  a 
Mountain  Rat-description  of  it.  The  Gap.  Wild  Turkeys.  Mr.  Lam- 


CONTENTS.  13 

Page, 

bert.  Captain  Muller.  New-London.  Hodnett's  Tavern.  Cumberland 
Court-House.  Young  Ladies — handsome  and  well  dressed.  Reflections 
on  Beauty.  .  248 

CHAPTER  IV.— Arrives  at  Petersburg.  Mrs.  Spencer  and  her  daughter. 
Public  Store-Houses  for  Tobacco — the  receipts  given  at  them  circulated  as 
money.  Mrs.  Bowling.  Pocahontas.  Account  of  General  Bull.  Depar 
ture  from  Petersburg.  Commerce  of  that  Town.  Arrival  at  Richmond. 
Description  of  that  place.  General  Harrison.  Interesting  Anecdote.  Ar 
rival  at  Westover.  Mrs.  Bird  and  her  family.  Mr.  Mead.  Sturgeon 
Fishery.  The  Humming-bird 266 

CHAPTER  V.— Return  to  Williamsburg.  Chickahoming  Creek.  Obser 
vations  on  Virginia  and  the  first  Planters  of  North  America.  On  Slavery.  285 

PART  III. 

Journal  of  a  Tour  in  New- Hampshire,  Massachusetts,  and  Upper 
Pennsylvania. 

CHAPTER  I.— The  author  leaves  Hartford.  Baron's  Tavern.  Fine  Mea 
dows — value  of  lands  and  provisions.  Arrives  at  Concord.  Description  of 
the  Country.  Anecdotes  relative  to  the  battles  of  Concord  and  Lexington. 
Road  from  Concord  to  Haverhill.  Commerce  of  Haverhill.  Road  from 
Haverhill  to  Portsmouth.  Exeter.  Beauty  of  the  Country.  Arrives  at 
Portsmouth.  A  Sermon.  Remarkable  Comparison.  Ship  of  War  Au- 
guste.  Description  of  the  Harbor  and  Fortifications.  Accident,  caused  by 
thunder,  on  board  the  Auguste.  Colonel  Langdon — generous  action.  De 
parture  from  Portsmouth.  Observations  on  Portsmouth  and  New-Hamp 
shire  in  general.  Arrives  at  Newburyport.  Mr.  Tracy — his  house — vicis 
situdes — patriotism,  &c .  303 

CHAPTER  II. — Departure  from  Newburyport.  Ipswich — its  population. 
Arrival  at  Salem.  Description  of  Salem  and  its  Harbor.  Road  from  Sa- 

«»  to  Boston.    Arrival  at  Boston.    A  Ball.    Dines  on  board  the  Souve- 
in.    French  Language.    Field  of  battle  of  Bunkers' Hill  and  old  camp 
at  Cambridge.     Description  of  the  Camp  and  Field  of  Battle.    Able  ma 
noeuvre  of  General  Washington.    University  of  Cambridge.    Doctor  Coop 
er.    The  Club.     Squadron  of  the  Marquis  de  Vaudreuil.  .        .        .319 

CHAPTER  III,— Observations  on  Boston.  Enormous  Tax.  Departure 
from  Boston.  Rejoins  the  troops  at  Providence.  Road  from  Providence 
to  Newborough.  Improvements.  Unhappy  Adventure.  Arrival  at  New- 
borough.  General  Washington.  Takes  leave  of  the  General.  American 
Barracks.  Beard's  Tavern.  Arrival  at  Sussex.  Moravian  mill — 
church — anecdote  of  the  minister — description  of  the  country.  Remarka 
ble  Gap.  Arrival  at  Bethlehem.  Visits  the  Moravian  Establishments — 
house  for  single  women — house  for  single  men — police  of  these  houses. 
Arrival  at  Philadelphia .336 


14  CONTENTS. 

Description  of  the  Natural  Bridge,  called  in  Virginia  Rocky  Bridge.      .        .  354 

PART  IV. 

Correspondence. 

LETTER  I.— The  Marquis  de  Chastellux  to  Mr.  Madison.          .        .        .  369- 

LETTERS  II,  III,  IV,  V,  VI,  VII,  VIII,  IX,   X.— General  Washington 
to  the  Marquis  de  Chastellux.      .     .  384J-389-390-391-392-393-394-395-397 

Additional  Notes  and  Corrections, by  the  American  Editor.  •  &  ..  ..'    ,.        .401 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 
PARTI. 

JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR 

FROM   NEWPORT  TO  PHILADELPHIA,   ALBANY,   &C. 


TRAVELS  IN 


CHAPTER 


S* 

\  ^/  *  •• r^V' 


NEWPORT VOLUNTOWN WINDHAM HARTFORD FARMIXGTQN, 

FROM  my  landing  at  Newport,  on  the  llth  of  July,  it  was 
hardly  possible  for  me  to  be  absent  even  for  two  days.  On 
the  19th  of  that  month  the  English  fleet  began  to  show  itseli 
before  the  port ;  the  next  day  we  reckoned  two  and  twenty 
sail,  and  a  few  days  after,  we  learnt  that  the  enemy  were  em 
barking  troops,  nor  were  we  informed  before  the  middle  of 
August  of  their  being  again  disembarked  at  New- York,  and  on 
Long-Island.  But  still  it  appeared  by  no  means  clear  that  they 
had  abandoned  their  undertaking :  we  received  every  day 
fresh  advices,  which  bespoke  new  embarkations  ;  on  our  part 
we  were  adding  to  our  fortifications,  and  our  still  recent  esta 
blishment  furnished  me  with  daily  employment  of  such  a  na 
ture  as  not  to  admit  of  my  absence.  M.  de  Rochambeau,  who 
had  long  proposed  visiting  his  posts  at  Providence,  was  unable 
to  carry  his  project  into  execution  before  the  30th  of  August. 
I  accompanied  him,  and  we  returned  the  next  day.*  On  the 
18th  of  September,  he  set  out  for  Hartford  in  Connecticut, 
with  the  Admiral  Chevalier  de  Ternay,  where  General  Wash 
ington  had  given  him  a  rendezvous.  I  did  not  attend  him  in 
this  journey,  and  as  fortune  would  have  it,  we  found  ourselves 
in  the  most  critical  situation  in  which  we  had  been  since  our 
arrival.  The  general  belief  at  Rhode-Island  was,  that  M.  de 
Guichen,  who  we  knew  had  quitted  St.  Domingo,  was  coming 
to  join  us,  and  we  expected  to  go  into  immediate  action.  On 
the  19th,  we  found  that  instead  of  M.  de  Guichen,  Admiral 
Rodney  was  arrived  at  New- York  with  ten  ships  of  the  line. 
Not  the  smallest  doubt  was  entertained  among  us  of  an 
attack  upon  the  French  fleet,  and  even  the  army.  The  vessels 

*  Let  the  English  reader  conjecture  from  what  this  General  officer 
has  said,  and  from  what  he  has  probably  thought  proper  not  to  say, 
whether  Sir  II.  Clinton,  and  Admiral  Arbuthnot,  and  even  the  great 
Rodney  were  very  enterprizing  Officers. — TRANSLATOR. 

3 


'i8  :       *  'TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

in  consequence  were  laid  across  the  harbour,  with  springs  on  their 
cables,  and  their  anchorage  was  protected  by  new  batteries, 
which  were  constructed  with  great  judgment  and  celerity.  In 
the  beginning  of  October,  the  season  being  then  advanced, 
without  any  thing  being  undertaking  by  Admiral  Rodney,  we 
had  reason  to  expect  that  we  should  remain  quiet  for  the  re 
mainder  of  the  year,  and  our  sole  occupation  was  in  preparing 
winter  quarters  for  the  troops.  They  took  possession  of  them 
the  1st  of  November  :  and  I  might  now  without  risk  have  ab 
sented  myself  from  the  army ;  but  not  wishing  to  show  too 
much  anxiety,  and  desirous  of  seeing  discipline,  and  the  ar 
rangements  relative  to  the  cantonments  well  established,  I  de 
ferred  until  the  llth  setting  out  on  a  long  tour  upon  the 
continent. 

I  left  Rhode-Island  that  day  with  Mr.  Lynch  and  M.  de 
Montesquieu,*  who  had  each  of  them  a  servant.  I  had  three, 
one  of  whom  had  a  led  horse,  and  another  drove  a  small  cart, 
which  I  was  advised  to  take,  to  convey  my  portmanteaus,  and 
to  avoid  hurting  my  horses  in  the  journey.  It  was  then  a  hard 
frost,  the  earth  was  covered  with  snow,  and  the  north-easterly 
wind  blew  very  sharp.  In  going  from  Bristol  to  the  Ferry,  I 
went  out  of  my  way  to  view  the  fortifications  of  Btitshill,  and  I 
reached  the  ferry  at  half  past  elevenf.  The  passage  was  long 
and  difficult,  because  the  wind  was  contrary.  We  were  obli 
ged  to  make  three  tacks,  and  it  was  necessary  to  make  two 
trips,  to  pass  over  our  horses,  and  the  cart.  At  two  o'clock  I 
arrived  at  Warren,  a  small  town  in  the  state  of  Massachusetts, 
eighteen  miles  distant  from  Newport.  I  alighted  at  a  good  inn, 
the  master  of  which,  called  Buhr,  is  remarkable  for  his  enor 
mous  size  as  well  as  that  of  his  wife,  his  son,  and  all  his  family. 
My  intention  was  only  to  have  baited  my  horses,  but  the  cold 
continuing  to  increase,  and  the  cart  not  arriving  before  three 
o'clock,  I  gave  up  all  thoughts  of  going  to  sleep  at  Providence, 
and  I  determined  to  stay  at  Warren,  where  I  was  in  very  good 
quarters.  After  dinner  I  went  to  the  bank  of  the  little  river 
Barrington,  which  runs  near  this  town,  to  see  a  sloop  come  in 
which  had  arrived  from  Port  au  Prince.  This  sloop  belonged 
to  Mr.  Porter,  Brigadier-General  of  the  Militia,  nephew  to  Mr. 
Buhr,  and  still  more  bulky  than  himself.  Colonel  Green  whom 
I  met  upon  the  quay,  made  me  acquainted  with  Mr.  Porter,  and 

*  Both  of  these  gentlemen  were  made  Colonels  en  second,  on  their 
return  to  Europe  ;  the  first  of  the  regiment  of  Walsh,  and  the  second, 
of  the  regiment  of  Bourbonnois. 

t  The  ferries  are  over  arms  of  the  sea,  as  well  as  rivers,  and  the  boats 
have  either  sails  or  oars. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AM  ERIC  A.  10 

we  drank  tea  with  him,  in  a  simple,  but  comfortable  house,  the 
inside  and  inhabitants  of  which  presented  a  specimen  of  Ameri 
can  manners. 

The  12th  I  set  out  at  half  past  eight  for  Providence,  where 
I  arrived  at  noon.  I  alighted  at  the  college,  that  is  to  say, 
at  our  hospital,  which  I  examined,  arid  dined  with  Mr.  Blan- 
chard,  Commissary  of  war.  At  half  past  four  I  went  to  Colo 
nel  Bowen's  where  I  had  lodged  in  my  first  journey  ,  I  drank 
tea  there  with  several  ladies,  one  of  whom,  rather  handsome, 
was  called  Miss  Angel.  I  was  then  conducted  to  Mrs.  Var- 
num's,  where  I  again  found  company,  and  from  thence  to  Go 
vernor  Bowen's,  who  gave  me  a  bed. 

The  13th,  I  breakfasted  with  Colonel  Peck  :  he  is  an  amia 
ble  and  polite  young  man,  who  passed  the  last  summer  with 
General  Heath  at  Newport.  He  received  me  in  a  charming 
small  house,  where  he  lived  with  his  wife,  who  is  young  also, 
and  has  a  pleasing  countenance,  but  without  any  thing  striking. 
This  little  establishment,  where  comfort  and  simplicity  reign, 
gave  an  idea  of  that  sweet  and  serene  state  of  happiness,  which 
appears  to  have  taken  refuge  in  the  New  World,  after  com 
pounding  it  with  pleasure,  to  which  it  has  left  the  Old. 

The  town  of  Providence  is  built  on  the  bank  of  a  river  only 
six  miles  long,  and  which  disembogues  itself  in  the  gulf  wherein 
are  Rhode-Island,  Connecticut,  Providence,  &c.  It  has  only 
one  street,  which  is  very  long :  the  suburb,  which  is  consider 
able,  is  on  the  other  side  of  the  river.  This  town  is  handsome, 
the  houses  are  not  spacious,  but  well  built,  and  properly 
arranged  within.  It  is  pent  in  between  two  chains  of  moun 
tains,  one  to  the  north,  and  the  other  to  the  south-west,  which 
causes  an  insupportable  heat  in  summer ;  but  it  is  exposed  to 
the  north-west  wind,  which  rakes  it  from  one  end  to  the  other, 
and  renders  it  extremely  cold  in  winter.  It  may  contain  two 
thousand  five  hundred  inhabitants.  Its  situation  is  very  advan 
tageous  for  commerce ;  which  accordingly  is  very  considerable 
in  times  of  peace.  Merchant  ships  may  load  and  unload  their 
cargoes  in  the  town  itself,  and  ships  of  war  cannot  approach 
the  harbour.  Their  commerce  is  the  same  with  that  of  Rhode- 
Island  and  Boston ;  they  export  staves,  and  salt  provisions,  and 
bring  back  salt,  and  a  great  quantity  of  molasses,  sugar,  and 
other  articles  from  the  West-Indies :  they  fit  out  vessels  also 
for  the  cod  and  whale  fishery.  The  latter  is  carried  on  success 
fully  between  Cape  Cod  and  Long-Island ;  but  they  go  often 
as  far  as  Baffin's  Straits,  and  Falkland's  Island.  The  inhabit 
ants  of  Providence,  like  those  of  Newport,  also  carry  on  the 
Guinea  trade  ;  they  buy  slaves  there  and  carry  them  to  the 
West-Indies,  where  they  take  bills  of  exchange  on  Old  Eng- 


20  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

land,  for  which  they  receive  woollens,  stuffs,  and  other  mer 
chandize*. 

On  quitting  Colonel  Peck,  I  mounted  my  horse  for  Volun 
town,  where  I  proposed  sleeping.  I  stopped  at  Scituate,  in  a 
very  indifferent  inn,  called  the  Angel's  Tavern;  it  is  about 
half  way  to  Voluntown  :  I  baited  my  horses  there,  and  set  out 
in  an  hour,  without  seeing  my  cart  arrive.  From  this  place  to 
Voluntown  the  road  is  execrable  ;  one  is  perpetually  mounting 
and  descending,  and  always  on  the  most  rugged  roads.  It 
was  six  o'clock,  and  the  night  closed  in,  when  I  reached 

D 's  Tavern,  which  is  only  five  and   twenty  miles   from 

Providence.  I  dismounted  with  the  more  pleasure  as  the 
weather  was  extremely  bad.  I  was  well  accommodated,  and 

kindly  received  at  Mr.  D 's.     He  is  an  old  gentleman 

of  seventy-three  years  of  age,  tall,  and  still  vigorous  ;  he  is  a 
native  of  Ireland,  first  settled  in  Massachusetts,  and  afterwards 
in  Connecticut.  'His  wife,  who  is  younger  than  him,  is  active, 
handy,  and  obliging ;  but  her  family  is  charming.  It  consists 
of  two  young  men,  one  twenty-eight,  and  the  other  twenty-one 
years  old ;  a  child  of  twelve,  and  two  girls  from  eighteen  to 
twenty,  as  handsome  as  angels.  The  eldest  of  these  young 
women  was  sick,  kept  her  chamber,  and  did  not  show  herself. 
I  learnt  afterwards  that  she  was  in  the  family  way,  and  almost 
ready  to  lie-in  :  she  was  deceived  by  a  young  man,  who,  after 
promising  to  marry  her,  absented  himself  and  did  not  return. f 


*  Here  are  several  places  of  public  worship,  an  university,  and 
other  public  buildings  ;  and  a  very  brisk  trade  was  carried  on  even  at 
the  worst  period  of  the  war  for  American  commerce,  viz.  in  1782. — 
Mr.  Welcome  Arnold,  a  great  plumber,  and  Delegate  to  Congress 
from  this  state,  has  changed  his  name  by  act  of  Assembly,  since  the 
defection  of  Benedict  Arnold. — Trans. 

t  On  the  arrival  of  seven  or  eight  copies  of  this  journal,  sent  to 
Europe  by  the  author,  the  curiosity  then  excited  by  every  thing  relative 
to  the  affairs  of  America,  procured  them  many  readers.  Though  the 
author  had  addressed  them  only  to  his  most  intimate  friends,  and  had 
taken  the  precaution  to  apprize  them  that  it  was  not  his  intention  they 
should  be  generally  public,  they  passed  rapidly  from  one  hand  to 
another  ;  and  as  they  could  only  be  lent  for  a  short  time  they  were 
read  with  as  much  precipitation  as  avidity.  This  anxiety  could  only 
proceed  from  the  general  desire  of  forming  some  idea  of  the  manners 
of  the  Americans,  of  which  this  journal  gave  several  details  which 
became  interesting  from  the  circumstances  of  novelty  and  distance. 
From  an  inconsistency,  however,  more  usual  in  France  than  in  any 
other  country,  some  persons  made  no  scruple  to  judge  the  author  on 
points  of  propriety,  of  which  he  alone  was  capable  of  giving  them  an 
idea  :  he  was  taxed  with  wantonness  and  indiscretion,  for  having 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  21 

Chagrin  and  the  consequences  of  her  situation  had  thrown  her 
into  a  state  of  languor  ;  she  never  came  down  to  the  ground- 
floor  on  which  her  parents  lived ;  but  great  care  was  taken  of 


concealed  neither  events  nor  places  in  relating  the  adventure  of  a  girl 
deceived  by  her  lover.  A  very  simple,  and  very  natural  reflection, 
might  have  convinced  them,  that  it  was  by  no  means  probable  that  a 
General  Officer,  a  man  of  forty-five  years  of  age,  particularly  connected 
with  the  Americans,  and  who  has  every  where  expressed  sentiments 
of  gratitude  and  attachment  for  those  from  whom  he  experienced 
kindness,  should  allow  himself,  not  only  to  offend,  but  to  afflict  an 
honest  family,  who  had  shewn  him  every  attention,  and  of  whom  he 
cannot  speak  but  in  terms  of  commendation.  Besides  that  the  simple 
and  even  serious  manner  in  which  this  article  is  written  affords  not  the 
least  appearance  of  levity  ;  a  sufficient  reason  for  preventing  the  too 
free  observations  of  certain  readers.  Another  reflection  might  occur 
naturally  enough,  but  which  Demanded  a  little  more  combination. 
The  author  wishes,  it  might  have  been  said,  to  give  us  an  idea  of 
American  manners,  which  he  is  certainly  very  far  from  satirizing : 
may  it  not  be  possible  that  amongst  a  people  so  remote  from  us  in 
every  respect,  a  girl  who  should  resign  herself  too  hastily  to  the  man 
she  was  engaged  to,  with  the  consent  even  of  her  parents,  a  girl  with 
out  distrust,  in  a  country  where  such  an  idea  is  never  taught  them, 
where  morals  are  so  far  in  their  infancy,  as  that  the  commerce  between 
two  free  persons  is  deemed  less  censurable,  than  the  infidelity,  the 
caprices,  and  even  the  coquetries  which  destroy  the  peace  of  so  many 
European  families  ?  May  it  not  be  possible  that  this  young  woman, 
as  interesting  as  she  was  unhappy,  should  be  lamented  rather  than 
condemned,  that  she  should  still  retain  all  her  rights  in  society,  and 
become  a  legitimate  spouse  and  mother,  though  her  story  was  neither 
unknown,  nor  attempted  to  be  concealed  ?  In  fact,  how  could  the 
author  learn  this  history  ?  Was  it  by  the  scandalous  chronicles  in  a 
hamlet  where  he  was  a  stranger  to  every  person  but  his  hosts  ?  1  have 
since  learnt  (says  he  in  speaking  of  this  girl)  that  she  was  in  the  family 
way,  and  near  her  time  of  lying-in.  How  did  he  learn  this  ?  From 
her  own  parents,  who  had  not  at  first  made  a  mystery  of  it,  and  then 
a  matter  of  confidence.  But  had  these  austere  judges,  when  they  had 
finished  their  reading,  happened  to  recollect  what  they  saw  at  the 
beginning,  they  might  have  observed  that  the  author  being  at  Volun- 

town  a  second  time,  two  months  after,  saw  Miss  D suckling 

an  infant,  which  was  continually  passing  from  her  knees  to  those  of 
her  mother ;  that  she  was  then  cherished,  and  taken  care  of  by  all  the 
family.  This  affecting  sight  was  described  with  sensibility,  and  not 
with  malignity.  But  it  is  time  to  give  over  tiring  the  patience,  not  of 
the  critics  only,  but  of  all  sensible  minds,  those  minds  alone  whose 
approbation  is  of  any  value.  On  another  journey  to  Voluntown,  the 

author  had  the  satisfaction  to  see  Miss  D perfectly  happy  :  her 

lover  was  returned,  and  had  married  her  ;  he  had  expiated  all  his 
wrongs,  nor  had  they  been  such  as  they  at  first  appeared  ;  he  had  unfor 
tunate  circumstances  to  plead  in  his  excuse,  if  there  can  indeed  be 


£J  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

her,  and  she  had  always  somebody  to  keep  her  company. 
Whilst  a  good  supper  was  preparing  for  me,  I  went  into  the 
room  where  the  family  was  assembled,  where  I  observed  a 
shelf  with  forty  or  fifty  volumes  on  it ;  on  opening  them  I  found 
that  they  were  all  classical  authors,  Greek,  Latin,  or  English. 

They  belonged  to  Mr.  D 's  eldest  son.     This  young 

man  had  received  a  regular  education,  and  was  tutor  at  Provi 
dence  college,  until  the  war  interrupted  his  studies.  I  con 
versed  with  him  on  various  points  of  literature,  and  particularly 
on  the  manner  in  which  the  dead  languages  should  be  pro 
nounced.  I  found  him  well  informed,  and  possessed  of  much 
simplicity  and  modesty.* 

We  were  waited  on  at  supper  by  a  most  beautiful  girl,  call 
ed  Miss  Pearce.  She  was  a  neighbour  of  Mrs.  D ,  and 

had  come  on  a  visit,  and  to  assist  her  in  the  absence  of  her 

any  for  a  man  who  for  a  single  day  can  leave  in  such  agonies  the 
interesting  and  weak  victim  who  was  unable  to  resist  him. 

The  translator,  who  has  been  at  Voluntown,  and  enjoyed  the  society 
and  witnessed  the  happiness  of  this  amiable  family,  is  likewise 
acquainted  with  the  whole  of  this  story.  He  is  so  well  satisfied  with 
the  justness  of  the  liberal  minded  author's  reasoning  on  American 
manners  in  this  particular,  that  in  relating  the  circumstances  of 
this  worthy  family  at  length,  he  does  not  apprehend  their  characters 
would  suffer  the  smallest  injury,  where  alone  the  imputation  is  of  .any 
consequence  ;  nor  does  he  fear  opposing  the  virtue  of  this  family,  and 
of  these  manners,  to  European  chastity,  prudery,  and  refinement. 
The  circumstances  of  this  story  were  related  to  the  translator  by  Mr. 

and  Mrs.  D ,  with  the  same  sensibility,  and  the  same  innocence, 

with  which  they  appear  to  have  told  them  to  the  Marquis  de  Chastel- 
lux£  They  are  a  kind,  hospitable,  and  amiable  couple,  and  the  hus 
band  is  very  far  from  being  ill  informed  ;  he  entertained  the  translator 
with  many  anecdotes  of  the  war,  and  with  some  laughable  ones 
respecting  General  Prescot,  who  was  brought  to  his  house,  after 
being  carried  off  without  his  breeches  from  Rhode-Island  ;  but  never 
without  expressing  a  becoming  degree  of  sensibility  for  his  situation, 
which  was  peculiarly  mortifying,  from  his  gout,  his  naturally  peevish 
disposition,  the  humiliating  mode  of  his  capture,  and  the  circumstance 
of  its  being  the  second  time  of  his  falling  into  the  hands  of  an  enemy, 
whom  he  was  weak  enough  to  despise  and  to  insult. —  Trans. 

*  The  translator  had  a  great  deal  of  conversation  with  this  young 
man,  and  found  him  such  as  the  Marquis  represents  him  ;  but  he  must 
likewise  add,  that  he  met  with  a  great  number  of  excellent  classical 
scholars,  in  different  parts  of  the  continent,  educated  at  Williams- 
burgh,  Philadelphia,  Yale  College,  New-Haven,  Cambridge,  and 
Providence,  and  very  few  deficient,  especially  to  the  northward.  The 
war  did  infinite  mischief  to  the  rising  generation  of  America,  by 
interrupting  education. — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  33 

youngest  daughter.  This  young  person  had,  like  all  the  Ameri 
can  women,  a  very  decent,  nay  even  serious  carriage ;  she  had  no 
objection  to  be  looked  at,  nor  to  have  her  beauty  commended,  nor 
even  to  receive  a  few  caresses,  provided  it  was  done  without  an  air 
of  familiarity  or  libertinism.  Licentious  manners,  in  fact,  are  so 
foreign  in  America,  that  the  communication  with  young  wo 
men  leads  to  nothing  bad,  and  that  freedom  itself  there  bears 
a  character  of  modesty  far  beyond  our  affected  bashfulness 
and  false  reserve.  But  neither  my  excellent  supper,  nor  the 

books  of  Mr.  D ,  nor  even  the  fine  eyes  of  Miss  Pearce, 

made  my  cart  arrive,  and  I  was  obliged  to  go  to  rest  without 
hearing  any  news  from  it.  As  I  desired  a  chamber  with  a  fire 
in  it,  Miss  Pearce  prepared  me  one,  informing  me  at  the  same 
time,  that  it  communicated  with  that  of  the  sick  lady  with 
whom  she  slept,  and  inquired  of  me  very  politely,  whether  it 
would  incommode  me  if  she  should  pass  through  my  chamber 
after  I  was  in  bed.  I  assured  her,  that  if  she  disturbed  my 
sleep,  it  would  not  be  as  a  frightful  dream.  And,  in  fact,  she 
came  a  quarter  of  an  hour  after  I  was  in  bed.  I  pretended  to 
sleep,  in  order  to  examine  her  countenance ;  she  passed  very 
gently,  turning  her  head  the  other  way,  and  hiding  the  light 
for  fear  of  awakening  me.  I  do  not  know  whether  I  shall 
pronounce  my  praise  or  condemnation,  by  saying,  that  I  soon 
after  fell  into  a  profound  sleep. 

On  my  rising  I  found  Miss  Pearce,  but  not  my  cart,  which 
it  seemed  more  than  probable  was  broke  into  a  thousand 
pieces.  I  was  determined  to  give  up  that  mode  of  conveying 
my  little  baggage,  which  still  it  was  necessary  to  have.  I  re 
solved,  therefore,  to  wait  for  them,  and  take  my  breakfast,  a 
resolution  much  easier  adopted.  At  length,  about  eleven 
o'clock,  my  sentinels  announced  its  appearance.  It  was  mat 
ter  of  great  joy  to  the  whole  crew  to  see  it  arrive,  although 
crippled,  and  towed  by  a  hired  horse,  which  they  had  been 
obliged  to  put  before  mine.  It  is  proper  to  observe,  that  my 
attendants,  proud  of  possessing  ample  means  of  transporting 
my  effects,  had  loaded  it  with  many  useless  articles  ;  that  be 
ing  apprised  myself  that  wine  was  not  always  to  be  met  with 
in  the  inns,*  I  had  thought  proper  to  furnish  myself  with  can- 
tines  which  held  twelve  bottles,  and  having  taken  the  precau- 

*  The  translator,  when  he  travelled  in  America  during  the  war, 
always  carried  wine  with  him  when  practicable,  for  at  Baltimore  and 
Philadelphia,  those  great  seaports,  very  indifferent  wine,  called  claret 
was  sold  at  two  dollars,  upwards  of  9  shillings  a  bottle,  hard  money.' 
Nor  was  it  an  uncommon  thing  to  transport  wine  from  Boston  to 
Philadelphia  by  land,  when  the  arrivals  were  more  fortunate  in  that 
quarter . — Trans. 


-M  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

tion  to  ask  for  two  or  three  white  loaves  of  bread  from  the 
commissary  of  provisions  at  Providence,  he  had  packed  up 
twenty,  which  alone  weighed  upwards  of  eighty  pounds,  so 
that  my  poor  cart  was  laden  till  on  the  point  of  sinking.  Its 
greatest  misfortune,  however,  arose  from  striking  on  the  rocks, 
which  had  broke  one  wheel  and  greatly  damaged  the  other.  I 

soon  determined  to  leave  it  with  Mr.  D ,  who  undertook 

to  get  it  repaired,  and  it  was  resolved  that  my  wine  should  be 
divided  into  three  parts,  one  of  which  should  be  drank  the 
same  day,  the  other  left  with  the  landlord,  with  a  request  to 
keep  it  till  my  return,  and  that  the  third  should  be  offered  him, 
with  a  request  to  drink  it ;  which  met  with  no  difficulty.  The 
remainder  of  the  day,  however,  being  dedicated  to  make  new 
dispositions,  I  determined  on  remaining  at  Voluntown.  I  made 
a  general  inspection  of  my  baggage ;  every  thing  unnecessary 

was  packed  up  and  left  with  Mr.  D ;  the  rest  put  into 

portmanteaus,  and  by  a  promotion  a  la  Prussienne,  on  the  field 
of  battle,  my  cart-horse  was  elevated  to  the  saddle.  The 
reading  of  some  English  poets,  and  the  conversation  with 
Messrs.  Lynch  and  Montesquieu,  and  the  good  people  of  the 
house,  made  me  pass  the  day  very  agreeably.  Towards  the 
evening,  two  travellers  came  into  the  room  I  was  in,  seated 
themselves  by  the  fire,  and  began  to  yawn  and  whistle,  without 
paying  the  least  attention  to  me.  The  conversation,  however, 
gradually  enlivened,  and  became  very  interesting  and  agree 
able.  One  of  them  was  a  colonel  of  militia,  who  had  served 
in  Canada,  and  had  been  in  several  engagements,  wherein  he 
was  wounded.  I  shall  observe  once  for  all,  that  among  the 
men  I  have  met  with,  above  twenty  years  of  age,  of  whatso 
ever  condition,  I  have  not  found  two  who  have  not  borne  arms, 
heard  the  whistling  of  balls,  and  even  received  some  wounds ; 
so  that  it  may  be  asserted,  that  North  America  is  entirely 
military,  and  inured  to  war,  and  that  new  levies  may  continual 
ly  be  made  without  making  new  soldiers.  '[Tue  translator 
confirms  this  assertion,  except  with  regard  to  the  pacific  reli 
gious  sects,  in  the  whole  extent  of  his  observations  from  Vir 
ginia  to  New-Hampshire.] 

On  the  15th,  I  set  out  from  Voluntown  at  eight  in  the  morn 
ing.  I  travelled  five  miles  in  the  mountains,  after  which  I  saw 
the  horizon  expand  itself,  and  my  eye  very  soon  had  its  full 
scope.  On  descending  the  hills,  and  before  we  reached  the 
valley,  is  the  town  or  hamlet  of  Plainfield ;  for  what  is  called 
in  America,  a  town  or  township,  is  only  a  certain  number  of 
houses,  dispersed  over  a  great  space,  but  which  belong  to  the 
same  incorporation,  and  send  deputies  to  the  general  assem 
bly  of  the  state.  The  centre  or  head  quarters  of  these  towns, 
rs  the  meeting-house  or  church.  This  church  stands  some- 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  ^5 

times  single,  and  is  sometimes  surrounded  by  four  or   five 
houses  only ;   whence  it  happens,  that  when  a  traveller  asks 
the  question  :     How  far  is  it  to  such  a  town*?     He  is  answered, 
You  are  there  already;    but  when  he  specifies  the  place  he 
wishes  to  be  at,  whether  it  be  the  meeting,  or  such  a  tavern, 
he  not  unfrequently  is  told,  You  are  seven  or  eight  miles  from 
it.     Plainfield  is  a  small  town,  but  a  large  district,  for  there 
are  full  thirty  houses  within  reach  of  the  meeting.*     Its  situa 
tion  is  agreeable ;  but  it  presents,  besides,  a  military  aspect : 
this  was  the  first  I  had  remarked.     An  army  might  encamp 
•  there  on  little  heights,  behind  which  the  hills  rise  in  an  am 
phitheatre,  thus  presenting  successive  positions  as  far  as  the 
great  woods,  which  would  serve  as  the  last  retreat.     The  foot 
of  the  heights  of  Plainfield  is  fortified  by  morasses,  only  passa 
ble  by  one  causeway,  which  would  oblige  the  enemy  to  file  oft' 
to  attack  you.f     The  right  and  left  are  supported  by  escarp 
ments.     On  the  right  also  is  a  marsh,  which  renders  it  more 
difficult  of  access.     This  camp  is  fit  for  six,  eight,  or  even  ten 
thousand  men  ;  it  might  serve  to  cover  Providence  and  Massa 
chusetts  state,  against  troops  who  had  passed  the  Connecticut 
river.     At  two  miles  from  Plainfield  the  road  turns  towards  the 
north,  and  after  travelling  two  or  three  miles  farther,  is  the 
river  of  Quenebaugh,  along  the  edge  of  which  we  travel  about 
a  mile  to  pass  it  at  Canterbury,  over  a  pretty  long,  and  tolera 
bly  constructed,  wooden  bridge.     This  river  is  neither  naviga 
ble,  nor  fordable,  but  flows  amidst  stones,  which  renders  its 
bed  very  uneven.      The   inhabitants   of  the  neighbourhood, 
form  dams  here  in  the  shape  of  a  projecting  angle  to  catch  the 
eels  :  the  summit  of  the  angle  is  in  the  middle  of  the  river ; 
there  they  place  nets  in  the  shape  of  a  purse,  where  the  fish 
which  follow  the  current  of  water  seldom  escape  being  caught. 
The  bridge  at  Canterbury  is  built  in  rather  a  deep  and  narrow 
valley.     The  meeting-house  of  the  town  is  on  the  right  bank, 
as  well  as  the  greatest  part  of  the  houses,  but  there  are  some 
also  on  the  eminences  towards  the  east,  which  appeared  to  me 
well  built  and  agreeably  situated.     These  heights  being  of  the 
same  elevation  with  those  to  the  west,  Canterbury]:  offers  two 

*  There  is  an  academy  or  college  here,  with  four  Latin  and  English 
masters,  and  when  the  translator  was  there,  he  was  present  at  some, 
not  contemptible,  public  exhibitions  of  oratory  in  those  two  languages. 
— Trans. 

t  In  summer  these  morasses  are  dry.  This  I  have  since  learnt, 
and  which  it  is  proper  to  remark,  that  an  erroneous  idea  may  not  be 
formed  of  this  position. 

J  The  translator  reached  Canterbury  on  a  Sunday,  a  day  on  which 
travelling  is  forbid  in  the  New-England  states.  The  family  at  Ruck- 

1 


•JG  TRAVELS  UN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

positions,  equally  advantageous  for  two  armies,  which  might 
dispute  the  passage  of  the  Quenebaugh.     After  passing  Can 
terbury,  we  enter  the  woods,  and  a  chain  of  hills,  which  must 
be  passed  by  very  rugged  and  difficult  roads.     Six  or  seven 
miles  farther,   the  country  begins  to  open,  and  we  descend 
agreeably  to  Windham.     It  is  a  very  handsome  little  town,  or 
rather  it  is  the  stock  from  which  a  handsome  town  will  spring. 
There  are  forty  or  fifty  houses  pretty  near  each  other,  and  so 
situated  as  to  present  the  appearance  of  a  large  public  square, 
and  three  large  streets.     The  Seunganick,  or  Windham  river, 
runs  near  this  town,  but  is  of  no  great  use  to  its  trade,  for  it  is 
no  more  navigable  than  the  Quenebaugh,  with  which  it  joins 
its  waters  to  form  the  river  Thames.     It  may  be  observed  in 
reading  this  journal,  and  still  more  by  the  inspection  of  the 
Charts,  that  the  rivers  in  general,  and  many  towns,  have  retain 
ed  their  Indian  names ;  this  nomenclature  has  something  inte 
resting  in  it,  as  it  confirms  the  still  recent  origin  of  these  mul 
tiplied  settlements,  and  is  perpetually  presenting  to  the  mind 
a  very  striking  contrast  between  the  former,  and  present  state 
of  this  vast  country. 

Windham  is  fifteen  miles  from  Voluntown.  I  there  found 
Lauzun's  hussars,  who  were  stationed  in  it  for  a  week,  until  their 
quarters  were  prepared  at  Lebanon.  I  dined  with  the  Duke 
de  Lauzun,  and  being  unable  to  get  away  before  half  after 
three,  the  night,  which  soon  came  on,  obliged  me  to  stop  at 
six  miles  from  Windham,  at  a  little  solitary  tavern,*  kept  by 
Mrs.  Hill.  As  the  house  had  an  indifferent  appearance,  I  ask 
ed  if  we  could  have  beds,  the  only  want  we  had ;  for  the  Duke 
de  Lauzun's  dinner  had  left  us  in  no  uneasiness  about  supper. 
Mrs.  Hill  told  me,  after  the  manner  of  the  country,  that  she 
could  only  spare  one  bed,  as  she  had  a  sick  traveller  in  the 
house  whom  she  would  not  disturb.  This  traveller  was  a  poor 
soldier  of  the  continental,  army,  who  was  going  home  on  a 
furlough  for  the  benefit  of  his  health.  He  had  his  furlough  in 
his  pocket  in  regular  form,  as  well  as  the  exact  account  of 

house's  Tavern  were  all  at  meeting,  and  it  cost  him  innumerable  en 
treaties,  besides  the  most  unequivocal  proofs  of  whiggism,  to  procure 
a  morsel  of  the  most  wretched  fare,  and  to  obtain  which  he  was  obli 
ged  to  wait  till  the  meeting  was  at  an  end.  Both  this  town  and 
Windham  are  most  beautifully  situated,  particularly  the  latter,  which 
is  extremely  picturesque. 

*  This  tavern  is  called  Lebanon  Crank,  and  the  translator  has  made 
similar  remarks  in  his  journal  on  the  external  appearance  of,  and  the 
kindness  that  reigns  within  this  little  hut ;  where,  a  very  uncommon 
circumstance  at  that  time,  he  found  excellent  green  tea,  and  fine  loaf 
sugar.  He  also  saw  Mrs.  Hill  feed,  and  relieve  a  travelling  soldier. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  27 

. 

what  was  due  to  him,  but  he  had  not  a  farthing  either  in  paper 
or  in  hard  money.  Mrs.  Hill,  notwithstanding,  had  given  him 
a  good  bed,  and  as  he  was  too  ill  to  continue  his  journey,  she 
had  kept  him,  and  taken  care  of  him  for  four  days.  We  ar 
ranged  matters  in  the  best  way  we  could :  the  soldier  kept  his 
bed.  I  gave  him  some  money  to  help  him  on  his  journey,  and 
Mrs.  Hill  appeared  to  me  much  more  affected  with  this  charity, 
than  with  the  good  hard  money  I  gave  her  to  pay  her  bill. 

The  16th,  at  eight  in  the  morning,  I  took  leave  of  my  kind 
landlady,  and  followed  the  road  to  Hartford,  beginning  my  jour 
ney  on  foot,  on  account  of  the  extreme  coldness  of  the  morning. 
After  descending  by  a  gentle  declivity  for  about  two  miles,  I 
got  into  a  pretty  narrow,  but  agreeable  and  well  cultivated 
valley  :  it  is  watered  by  a  rivulet  which  falls  into  the  Seunga- 
nick,  and  which  is  decorated  with  the  name  of  Hope  river.  We 
follow  this  valley  to  Bolton  town,  or  township,  which  has  no 
thing  remarkable.  There  we  traverse  a  chain  of  pretty  lofty 
mountains,  which  extend  from  north  to  south  like  all  the  hills 
in  Connecticut.  On  quitting  these  mountains,  we  come  to  the 
first  houses  of  East-Hartford.  Though  we  were  but  five  miles 
from  Hartford  Court  House,  we  wished  to  rest  our  horses,  which 
had  travelled  twenty-three  miles  on  a  stretch.  The  inn  we 
stopped  at  was  kept  by  Mr.  Marsh  :  he  is,  according  to  the 
English  phrase,  a  good  farmer  ;  that  is,  a  good  cultivator.  He 
told  me  that  he  had  begun  a  settlement  in  the  state  of  Vermont, 
where  he  had  purchased  two  hundred  acres  of  land  for  forty 
dollars,  about  two  hundred  livres  of  our  money,  or  something- 
more  than  eight  pounds  English.  The  state  of  Vermont  is  a 
vast  country,  situated  to  the  eastward  of  New-Hampshire  and 
Massachusetts,*  and  to  the  north  of  Connecticut,  between  the 
river  of  that  name,  and  Hudson's  river.  As  it  is  lately  peopled, 
and  has  always  been  an  object  of  contention  between  the  states 
of  New-York  and  New-Hampshire,  there  is  properly  speaking 
no  established  government.  Ethan  Allen,  celebrated  for  the 
expedition  he  undertook  in  1775  against  Ticonderoga,  of  his 
own  accord,  and  without  any  other  aid  than  that  of  the  volun 
teers  who  followed  him,  has  made  himself  the  chief  of  that 
country.  He  has  formed  there  an  assembly  of  representatives; 
this  assembly  grants  lands,  and  the  country  is  governed  by  its 
own  laws,  without  having  any  connexion  with  congress.  The 
inhabitants  however  are  not  the  less  enemies  of  the  English  ; 
but  under  the  pretext  that  they  form  the  frontier  against  Cana 
da,  and  are  obliged  to  guard  it,  they  furnish  no  contingent  to 
the  expenses  of  the  war.  They  had  long  no  other  name  than 
that  of  Green  Mountain  Boys,  but  thinking  this  too  ignoble  an 

*   Vermont   is    situated   west   of  New-Hampshire   and   north   of 
Massachusetts. 


•i>  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH  AMERICA. 

appellation  for  their  new  destiny,  they  translated  Green  Moun 
tain  into  French ;  which  made  Verd  Mont,  and  by  corruption 
Vermont.  It  remains  to  be  seen  whether  it  is  by  corruption  also, 
that  this  country  has  assumed  the  title  of  the  state  of  Vermont.* 

About  four  in  the  evening,  I  arrived  at  Hartford  ferry,  after 
travelling  over  a  very  inconvenient  road,  a  great  part  of  which 
forms  a  narrow  causeway  through  a  marshy  wood.  We  pass 
this  ferry,  like  all  the  others  in  America,!  in  a  flat  boat  with 
oars.  I  found  the  inns  at  Hartford  so  full  that  it  was  impossi 
ble  to  procure  a  lodging.  The  four  eastern  states,  Massachu 
setts,  New-Hampshire,  Rhode-Island,  and  Connecticut  were 
then  holding  their  assemblies  in  that  town.  These  four  states 
have  long  maintained  a  particular  connexion  with  each  other, 
and  they  meet  together  by  deputies,  sometimes  in  one  state, 
sometimes  in  another.  Each  legislature  sends  deputies.  In 
a  circumstance,  so  uncommon  in  America,  as  room  being  want 
ed  for  men  collected  together,  Colonel  Wadsworth's  house  of 
fered  me  a  most  agreeable  asylum ;  I  lodged  with  him,  as  well 
as  the  Duke  de  Lauzun,  who  had  passed  me  on  the  road.  Mr. 
Dumas,|  who  belonged  to  the  staff  of  the  army,  and  was  then 
attached  to  the  Duke  de  Lauzun,  Mr.  Lynch  and  Mr.  de  Mon 
tesquieu  were  well  accommodated  in  the  neighbourhood. 

Colonel  Wadsworth  is  about  two  and  thirty,  very  tall  and 
well  made,  and  has  a  noble  as  well  as  agreeable  countenance. 
He  lived  formerly  on  Long-Island  ;  and  from  his  infancy  was 
engaged  in  commerce  and  navigation  :  he  had  already  made 
several  voyages  to  the  coast  of  Guinea  and  the  West-Indies, 
when  according  to  the  American  expression,  the  present  con 
testation  began.  He  then  served  in  the  army,  and  was  in  seve 
ral  actions ;  but  General  Washington  discovering  that  his  ta 
lents  might  be  more  usefully  employed,  made  him  Commissary 
of  Provisions.  This  is  a  military  post  in  America,  and  those 


*  ;n  the  years  1780,  1781,  and  1782,  the  inhabitants  of  Vermont, 
who  were  not  guided  by  Ethan  Allen,  annually  sent  deputies  to  con 
gress,  and  were  once  within  one  vote  of  carrying  their  point,  but  had 
not  the  peace  taken  place,  it  is  probable  from  circumstances,  that  in 
case  of  refusal,  they  would  at  least  have  threatened  to  put  themselves 
under  British  protection,  an  event  to  which  the  Marquis  seems  to  al 
lude. — Trans. 

t  At  the  Moravian  settlement  of  Bethlehem  is  a  ferry  passed  by 
ropes,  like  that  opposite  the  invalid  hospital  at  Paris,  and  many  others 
in  France,  and  other  parts  of  Europe. —  Trans. 

|  The  translator  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  with  this  accomplished 
officer,  at  Baltimore,  at  Boston,  and  in  Europe.  Nature  has  been 
very  favourable  to  his  exterior,  and  he  unites  to  the  most  perfect  good 
manners,  and  a  thorough  knowledge  of  the  world,  and  books,  the  most 
unexampled  activity  in  his  profession. — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH -AMERICA.  29 

who  fill  it,  are  as  much  respected  as  the  first  officer  of  the  line. 
The  Commissary  General  is  charged  with  all  the  purchases, 
and  the  Quarter  Master  with  all  the  conveyances  ;  it  is  the  lat 
ter  who  marks  out  the  ground,  establishes  the  magazines,  pro 
vides  carriages,  and  distributes-  the  rations :  it  is  also  on  his 
receipts  and  orders  that  the  Paymasters  make  their  payments ; 
he  is,  in  short,  properly  speaking,  a  Military  Tntendant,  while 
the  Commissary  General  may  be  compared  to  a  Munitionnaire 
with  us,  who  should  undertake  to  provide  forage  as  well  as  pro 
visions.  I  think  this  arrangement  as  good  as  ours,  though 
these  departments  have  not  been  exempt  from  abuses,  and  even 
blame  in  the  course  of  the  present  war ;  but  it  must  be  obser 
ved,  that  whenever  the  government  wants  political  force,  and 
the  treasury  is  without  money,  the  administration  of  affairs  is 
always  ruinous,  and  often  culpable.  This  reflection  alone  will 
afford  sufficient  subject  for  the  eulogium  of  Colonel  Wads- 
worth,  when  it  is  known  that  throughout  all  America,  there  is 
not  one  voice  against  him,  and  that  his  name  is  never  pro 
nounced  without  the  homage  due  to  his  talents  and  his  probi 
ty.  The  particular  confidence  of  General  Washington  puts 
the  seal  upon  his  merit.*  The  Marquis  de  la  Fayette  judged 
extremely  well  therefore  in  getting  Mr.  de  Corny  to  employ 
him,  in  furnishing  the  provisions  necessary  for  the  French 
troops  which  were  then  expected.  As  soon  as  they  were  dis 
embarked  at  Rhode-Island,  he  again  proposed  him  as  the  most 
proper  man  in  the  world  to  assist  them  in  all  their  wants,  but 
those  who  had  the  direction  of  the  army  did  not  at  that  time 
think  proper  to  employ  him.  They  even  conceived  some  sus 
picions  of  him,  from  false  ideas,  and  eagerly  substituted  for  a 
Commissary  of  understanding  and  reputation,  undertakers,  with 
out  fortune,  and  without  character  ;  who  promised  every  thing, 
performed  nothing,  and  soon  threw  our  affairs  into  confusion : 
first  by  augmenting  the  price  of  articles  by  purchases  hastily 
made,  and  frequently  in  opposition  one  to  another,  and  finally 
by  throwing  into  circulation,  and  offering  at  a  great  discount, 
the  bills  of  exchange  they  had  engaged  to  receive  for  two- 
thirds  of  all  their  payments.  These  bargains,  and  contracts, 
succeeded  eventually  so  ill,  that  we  were  obliged,  but  too  late, 
to  have  recourse  to  Mr.  Wadsworth,  who  resumed  the  affairs 
with  as  much  nobleness  as  he  had  quitted  them ;  always  as  su 
perior  to  injuries  by  his  character,  as  he  is  by  his  talents  to  the 
innumerable  obstacles  that  surrounded  him. 

Another  interesting  personage  was  then  at  Hartford,  and  I 
went  to  pay  him  a  visit :  this  was  Governor  Trumbull  ;    Go- 

*  The  translator  cannot  forbear  adding  his  testimony  to  this  brilliant 
but  exaggerated  eulogium. — Trans. 


:*0  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMEKICA. 

vernor,  by  excellence,  for  he  has  been  so  these  fifteen  years, 
having  been  always  rechosen  at  the  end  of  every  two  years, 
and  equally  possessing  the  public  esteem  under  the  English 
government,  and  under  that  of  the  Congress.  He  is  seventy 
years  old ;  his  whole  life  is  consecrated  to  business,  which  he 
passionately  loves,  whether  important  or  not ;  or  rather,  with 
respect  to  him,  there  is  none  of  the  latter  description.  He 
has  all  the  simplicity  in  his  dress,  all  the  importance,  and  even 
pedantry  becoming  the  great  magistrate  of  a  small  republic. 
He  brought  to  my  mind  the  burgomasters  of  Holland  in  the 
time  of  the  Heinsiuses  and  the  Barnevelts.  I  had  been  in 
formed  that  he  was  employed  in  a  history  of  the  present  revo 
lution,  and  I  was  curious  to  read  this  work  ;  I  told  him  that  I 
hoped  to  see  him  on  my  return  at  Lebanon,  (his  place  of 
abode)  and  that  I  should  then  request  permission  to  look  over 
his  manuscript ;  but  he  assured  me  that  he  had  only  written 
the  introduction,  which  he  had  addressed  to  the  Chevalier  de 
la  Luzerne,  our  ambassador.  I  procured  it  during  my  stay  in 
Philadelphia,  but  it  is  only  an  historical  recapitulation,  rather 
superficial,  and  by  no  means  free  from  partiality  in  the  man 
ner  of  representing  the  events  of  the  war.  The  only  interest 
ing  fact  I  found  in  it,  was  in  the  journal  of  a  Governor  Win- 
throp,  in  the  year  1670,  where  he  says,  that  the  members  of 
the  council  of  Massachusetts,  being  advised  by  their  friends 
in  London  to  address  themselves  to  the  parliament,  to  whom 
the  King  then  left  a  great  deal  of  authority,  as  the  best  means 
of  obtaining  the  redress  of  some  grievances,  the  council,  after 
mature  deliberation,  thought  proper  to  decline  the  proposal, 
reflecting,  that  if  they  put  themselves  once  under  the  protec 
tion  of  parliament,  they  should  be  obliged  to  submit  to  all  the 
laws  that  assembly  might  impose,  whether  on  the  nation  in 
general,  or  on  the  colonies  in  particular.  Now,  nothing  can 
more  strongly  prove,  that  these  colonies,  even  in  the  very  ori 
gin,  never  acknowledged  the  authority  of  parliament,  nor 
imagined  they  could  be  bound  by  laws  of  their  making. 

The  17th,  in  the  morning,  I  parted  with  regret  from  my  host 
and  the  Duke  de  Lauzun  ;  but  it  was  not  till  after  breakfast, 
for  it  is  a  thing  unheard  of  in  America  to  set  off  without 
breakfast.  By  this  indispensable  delay  I  had  an  opportunity  of 
making  acquaintance  with  General  Parsons.  He  appeared  to 
me  a  sensible  man,  and  he  is  so  esteemed  in  his  country  ;  but 
he  has  had  little  opportunity  of  displaying  great  military  ta 
lents  ;  he  was,  in  fact,  what  one  must  never  be,  in  war,  or  in 
any  thing,  unfortunate.  His  outset  was  on  Long-Island,  where 
he  was  taken,  and  he  has  since  been  in  all  the  bad  affairs,  so 
that  he  is  better  known  for  his  capacity  in  business,  than  for 
the  share  he  has  had  in  the  events  of  the  war. 


TRAVELS  IN  JNORTH-AMER1CA.  31 

The  road  I  had  to  travel  becoming  henceforth  difficult  and 
rather  desert,  it  was  determined  that  I  should  not  exceed  ten 
miles  that  day,  that  I  might  meet  with  good  quarters ;  and  get 
my  horses  in  order  for  the  next  day's  journey.  The  place  I 
was  to  stop  at  was  Farmington.  Mr.  Wadsworth,  fearing  I 
should  not  find  a  good  inn  there,  gave  me  a  letter  of  recom 
mendation  to  one  of  his  relations  of  the  name  of  Lewis,  where 
he  assured  me  I  should  be  well  received,  without  incommo 
ding  any  person,  and  without  straightening  myself,  for  that  I 
should  pay  my  reckoning  as  at  an  inn.  In  fact,  when  the  ta 
verns  are  bad,  or  that  they  are  so  situated  as  not  to  suit  the 
convenience  of  the  traveller,  it  is  the  custom  in  America,  to 
ask  for  quarters  of  some  individual  at  his  ease,  who  can  spare 
room  in  his  house  for  you,  and  can  give  stabling  for  your 
horses  :  the  traveller  and  his  host  then  converse  together  on 
equal  terms  ;  but  he  is  paid  merely  as  an  inn-keeper. 

The  town  of  Hartford  does  not  merit  any  attention  either 
in  travelling  through,  or  in  speaking  of  it.      It  consists  of  a 
very  long  street,  parallel  with   the  river ;    it  is  pretty  regular 
and  connected,  that  is,  the  houses  are  not  distant  from  each 
other.     But  it  has  many  appendages  ;  every  thing  is  Hartford 
six  leagues  round ;    but  East-Hartford,  West-Hartford,   and 
New-Hartford  are  distinct  towns,  though  composed  of  houses 
scattered   through  the   country.     I  have  already  mentioned 
what  constitutes  a  town ;    it  is  to  have  one  or  two  meetings, 
particular  assemblies,  and  the  right  of  sending  deputies  to  the 
general  assembly.      These  townships  may  be  compared  to  the 
ci&rite  of  the  Romans.     From  a  very  lofty  plain  on  the  road  to 
Farmington,  one  discovers  not  only  all  the  Hartfords,  but  all 
that  part  of  the  continent  watered  by  the  river  of  that  name,* 
situated  between  the  eastern  and  western  chains  of  mountains. 
This  place  is  called  Rocky-hill.      The  houses  of  West-Hart 
ford,  frequently  dispersed,  and  sometimes  grouped  together, 
and  every  where  adorned  with  trees  and  meadows,  form  of  the 
road  to  Farmington  such  a  garden,  in  the  English  style,  as  it 
would  be  difficult  for  art  to  imitate.     Their  inhabitants  add 
some  industry  likewise  to  their  rich  culture  ;  some  common 
cloths  and  other  woollen  stuffs  are  fabricated  here,  but  of  a 
good  wear,  and  sufficient  to  clothe  the  people  who  live  in  the 
country,  or  in  any  other  town  than  Boston,  New- York,  and 
Philadelphia.     I  went  into  a  house  where  they  were  preparing 
and  dying  the  cloth.    This  cloth  is  made  by  the  people  of  the 
country,  and  is  then  sent  to  these  little  manufactories,  where 
it   is    dressed,   pressed,   and  dyed,  for   two  shillings,  lawful 
money,  per  yard,  which  makes  about  thirty-five  sols  French. 

*  Now  called  Connecticut  river. 


354  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

or  seventeen-pence  English,  the  Connecticut  pound  being 
equal  to  something  more  than  three  dollars.  I  reached  Farm- 
ington  at  three  in  the  afternoon.  It  is  a  pretty  little  town, 
with  a  handsome  meeting-house,  and  fifty  houses  collected,  all 
neat  and  well  built.  It  is  situated  on  the  declivity  of  the 
mountains  :  the  river  which  bears  the  same  name  runs  at  the 
foot  of  them,  and  turns  towards  the  north,  without  showing 
itself;  but  the  view  of  the  valley  is,  notwithstanding,  very 
agreeable.  After  dismounting,  I  took  advantage  of  the  good 
weather,  to  take  a  walk  in  the  streets,  or  rather  in  the  high 
ways.  I  saw  through  the  windows  of  a  house  that  they  were 
working  at  some  trade  5  I  entered,  and  found  them  making  a  sort 
of  camblet,  as  well  as  another  woollen  stuff  with  blue  and 
white  stripes  for  women's  dress  :  these  stuffs  are  sold  at  three 
shillings  and  six-pence  the  yard,  lawful  money,  or  about  two 
and  twenty-pence  English.  The  sons  and  grandsons  of  the 
family  were  at  work  ;  one  workman  can  easily  make  five  yards 
a  day.  The  prime  cost  of  the  materials  being  only  one  shil 
ling  currency,  the  day's  work  may  amount  to  ten  or  twelve. 
On  my  return  from  this  walk  I  found  an  excellent  dinner  pre 
pared  for  me,  without  my  having  said  a  word  to  the  family. 
After  dinner,  about  the  close  of  the  day,  Mr.  Lewis,  who  had 
been  abroad  on  his  affairs  during  a  part  of  the  day,  came  into 
the  parlour  where  I  was,  seated  himself  by  the  fire,  lighted 
his  pipe,  and  entered  into  conversation  with  me.  I  found  him 
an  active  and  intelligent  man,  well  acquainted  with  public  af 
fairs,  and  with  his  own  :  he  carried  on  a  trade  of  cattle,  like 
all  the  farmers  of  Connecticut ;  he  was  then  employed  in 
furnishing  provisions  for  the  army,  and  was  principally  taken 
up  in  slaughtering,  and  salting  cattle  for  the  state  of  Connecti 
cut,  to  be  sent  to  Fishkill.  For  each  state  is  obliged  to  fur 
nish  not  only  money,  but  other  articles  for  the  army :  those  to 
the  eastward  supply  it  with  cattle,  rum,  and  salt ;  and  those  to 
the  westward  with  flour  and  forage.  Mr.  Lewis  has  borne 
arms  also  for  his  country :  he  was  at  the  affairs  of  Long-Island 
and  Saratoga,  of  which  he  gave  me  an  exact  account;  in  the 
last  he  served  as  a  volunteer.  At  tea  time  Mrs.  Lewis  and 
her  sister-in-law  gave  us  their  company.  Mrs.  Lewis  had  just 
recovered  from  lying-in,  and  had  her  child  in  her  arms :  she  is 
near  thirty,  with  a  very  agreeable  face,  and  so  amiable,  and  so 
polite  a  carriage,  as  to  present  a  picture  of  decency  itself,  to 
every  country  in  the  world.  The  conversation  was  interesting 
ly  supported  the  whole  evening.  The  family  retired  at  nine 
o'clock  ;  I  did  not  see  them  in  the  morning,  and  paid  my  bill 
to  the  servants  :  it  was  neither  dear  nor  cheap,  but  the  just 
price  of  every  thing,  regulated  without  interest,  and  without 
compliments. 


CHAPTER  II. 

JL.ITCHFIELD FISHKILL WEST-POINT. 

1  GOT  on  horseback  at  eight  o'clock  on  the  18th,  and  at  the 
distance  of  a  mile  fell  in  with  the  river  of  Farmington,  along 
which  I  rode  for  some  time.     There  was  nothing  interesting  in 
this  part  of  my  journey,  except  that  having  fired  my  pistol  at  a 
jay,  to  nay  great  astonishment  the   bird  fell.     This  had  been 
for  many  days  an  object  of  curiosity  with  me,  and  it  is  really  a 
most  beautiful  creature.     It  is  quite  blue,  but  it  unites  all  the 
various  shades  of  that  colour  so  as  to  surpass  the  invention  of 
art,  and  be  very  difficult  of  imitation.     I  must  remark  by  the 
bye,  that  the  Americans  call  it  only  by  the  name   of  the  blue 
bird,  though  it  is  a  real  jay  ;  but  the  Americans  are  far  from 
being  successful  in  enriching  their  native  language.     On  every 
thing  which  wanted  an  English  name,  they  have  bestowed  only 
a  simple  descriptive  one  :  the   jay  is  the  blue  bird,  the  cardi 
nal,  the  red  bird  ;  every  water  bird  is  a  duck,  from  the  teal  to 
the  canard  de  dots,  and  to  the  large  black  duck  which  we  have 
not  in  Europe.     They  call  them,  red  ducks,  black  ducks,  wood 
ducks.     It  is  the  same  with  respect  to  their  trees  ;  the  pine, 
the  cypresses,  the  firs,  are  all  comprehended  under  the  general 
name  of  pine-trees  ;  and  if  the  people  characterize  any  parti 
cular  tree,  it  is  from  the  use  to  which  it  is  applied,  as  the  wall- 
nut*  from  its  serving  to  the  construction  of  wooden  houses.     I 
could  cite  many  other  examples,  but  it  is  sufficient  to  observe, 
that  this  poverty  of  language  proves  how  much  men's  atten 
tion  has  been  employed  in  objects  of  utility,  and  how  much  at 
the  same  time  it  has  been  circumscribed  by  the  only  prevailing 
interest,  the  desire  of  augmenting  wealth,  rather  by  dint  of  la 
bour,  than  by  industry.     But  to  return  to  my  jay  ;  I  resolved  to 
make  a  trophy  of  it,  in  the  manner  of  the  savages,  by  scalping 
it  of  its  skin  and  feathers  ;  and  content  with  my  victory,  I  pur 
sued  my  journey,  which  soon  brought  me  amidst  the  steepest 
and  most  difficult  mountains  I  had  yet  seen.     They  are  covered 
with  woods  as  old  as  the  creation,  but  which  do  not  differ 
from  ours.     These  hills  heaped  confusedly  one  upon  another, 


*  Here  the  author  is  a  little  inaccurate  respecting  the  English  lan 
guage,  as  the  same  word  wall-nut,  is  applied  to  the  same  tree  in  Eng 
lish,  and  with  no  reference  whatever  to  any  such  use. — Trans. 

5 


34  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH  AMERICA. 

oblige  you  to  be  continually  mounting  and  descending,  with 
out  your  being  able  to  distinguish  in  this  wild  region,  the  sum 
mit,  which  rising  above  the  rest,  announces  to  you  a  conclu 
sion  to  your  labours.  This  disorder  of  nature  reminded  me  of 
the  lessons  of  him  whom  she  has  chosen  for  her  confident  and 
interpreter.  The  vision  of  Mr.  de  Buifon  appeared  to  me  in 
these  ancient  deserts.  He  seemed  to  be  in  his  proper  element, 
and  to  point  out  to  me,  under  a  slight  crust  formed  by  the  de 
struction  of  vegetables,  the  inequality  of  a  globe  of  glass,  which 
has  cooled  after  along  fusion.  The  waters  said  he,  have  done 
nothing  here  ;  look  around  you,  you  will  not  find  a  single  cal 
careous  stone  ;  every  thing  is  quartz,  granite,  or  flint.  I  made 
experiments  on  the  stones  with  aquafortis,  and  I  could  not  help 
concluding,  what  has  not  obtained  sufficient  credit  in  Europe, 
not  only  that  he  speaks  well,  but  he  is  always  in  the  right. 

While  I  was  meditating  on  the   great  process  of  nature, 
•which  employs  fifty  thousand  years  in  rendering  the  earth  ha 
bitable,  a  new  spectacle,  well  calculated  as  a  contrast  to  those 
which  I  had  been  contemplating,  fixed  my  attention,  and  exci 
ted  my  curiosity  :  this  was  the  work  of  a  single  man,  who  in 
the  space  of  a  year  had  cut  down  several  arpents  of  wood,  and 
had  built  himself  a  house  in  the  middle  of  a  pretty  extensive 
territory  he  had  already  cleared.     I  saw,  for  the  first  time, 
what  I  have  since  observed  a  hundred  times  ;  for  in  fact,  what 
ever  mountains  I  have  climbed,  whatever  forests  I  have  traver 
sed,  whatever  bye-paths  I  have  followed,  I  have  never  travelled 
three  miles  without  meeting  with  a  new  settlement,  either  be 
ginning  to  take  form  or  already  in  cultivation.     The  following 
is  the  manner  of  proceeding  in  these  improvements  or  new 
settlements1.     Any  man  who  is  able  to  procure  a  capital  of  five 
or  six  hundred   livres  of  our  money,    or   about   twenty-five 
pounds  sterling,  and  who  has  strength  and  inclination  to  work, 
may  go  into  the  woods  and  purchase  a  portion  of  one  hundred 
and  fifty  or  two  hundred  acres   of  land,  which  seldom  costs 
him  more  than  a  dollar  or  four  shillings  and  six-pence  an  acre,  a 
small  part  of  which  only  he  pays  in  ready  money.     There  he 
conducts  a  cow,  some  pigs,  or  a  full  sow,  and  two  indifferent 
horses  which  do  not  cost  him  more  than  four  guineas  each.     To 
these  precautions  he  adds  that  of  having  a  provision  of  flour 
and  cider.     Provided  with  this  first  capital,  he  begins  by  fell 
ing  all  the  smaller  trees,  and  some  strong  branches  of  the 
large  ones  :  these  he  makes  use  of  as  fences  to  the  first  field 
he  wishes  to  clear  ;  he  next  boldly  attacks  those  immense  oaks, 
or  pines,  which  one  would  take  for  the  ancient  lords   of  the 
territory  he  is  usurping  ;  he  strips  them  of  their  bark,  or  lays 
them  open  all  round    with  his    axe.     These  trees  mortally 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  & 

wounded,  are  the  next  spring  robbed  of  their  honours  ;  their 
leaves  no  longer  spring,  their  branches  fall,  and  their  trunk 
becomes  a  hideous  skeleton.  This  trunk  still  seems  to  brave 
the  efforts  of  the  new  colonist  ;  but  where  there  are  the  small 
est  chinks  or  crevices,  it  is  surrounded  by  fire,  and  the  flames 
consume  what  the  iron  was  unable  to  destroy.  But  it  is  enough 
for  the  small  trees  to  be  felled,  and  the  great  ones  to  lose  their 
sap.  This  object  completed,  the  ground  is  cleared  ;  the  air 
and  the  sun  begin  to  operate  upon  that  earth  which  is  wholly 
formed  of  rotten  vegetables,  and  teems  with  the  latent  princi 
ples  of  production.  The  grass  grows  rapidly  ;  there  is  pastu 
rage  for  the  cattle  the  very  first  year;  after  which  they  are  left 
to  increase,  or  fresh  ones  are  brought,  and  they  are  employed 
in  tilling  a  piece  of  ground  which  yields  the  enormous  increase 
of  twenty  or  thirty  fold.  The  next  year  the  same  course  is  re 
peated  ;  when,  at  the  end  of  two  years,  the  planter  has  where 
withal  to  subsist,  and  even  to  send  some  articles  to  market :  at 
the  end  of  four  or  five  years,  he  completes  the  payment  of  his 
land,  and  finds  himself  a  comfortable  planter.  Then  his  dwell 
ing,  which  at  first  was  no  better  than  a  large  hut  formed  by  a 
square  of  the  trunks  of  trees,  placed  one  upon  another,  with 
the  intervals  filled  by  mud,  changes  into  a  handsome  wooden 
house,  where  he  contrives  more  convenient,  and  certainly  much 
cleaner  apartments  than  those  in  the  greatest  part  of  our  small 
towns.  This  is  the  work  of  three  weeks  or  a  month.  His  first 
habitation,  that  of  eight  and  forty  hours.  I  shall  be  asked, 
perhaps,  how  one  man  or  one  family  can  be  so  quickly  lodged  ; 
I  answer,  that  in  America  a  man  is  never  alone,  never  an  isola 
ted  being.  The  neighbours,  for  they  are  every  where  to  be  found, 
make  it  a  point  of  hospitality  to  aid  the  new  farmer.  A  cask 
of  cider  drank  in  common,  and  with  gaiety,  or  a  gallon  of  rum, 
are  the  only  recompense  for  these  services.  Such  are  the 
means  by  which  North-America,  which  one  hundred  years  ago 
was  nothing  but  a  vast  forest,  is  peopled  with  three  millions  of 
inhabitants ;  and  such  is  the  immense,  and  certain  benefit  of 
agriculture,  that  notwithstanding  the  war,  it  not  only  maintains 
itself  where  ever  it  has  been  established,  but  it  extends  to 
places  which  seem  the  least  favourable  to  its  introduction. 
Four  years  ago,  one  might  have  travelled  ten  miles  in  the  woods 
I  traversed,  without  seeing  a  single  habitation. 

Harrington  is  the  first  township  1  met  with  on  my  road. 
This  place  is  sixteen  miles  from  Farmington,  and  eight  from 
Litchfield.  Four  miles  before  we  come  to  this  last  town,  we 
pass  a  wooden  bridge  over  the  river  of  Waterbury ;  this  river 
is  pretty  large,  but  not  navigable.  Litchfield,  or  the  Meeting 
house  of  Litchfield,  is  situated  on  a  large  plain  more  elevated 
than  the  surrounding  heights;  about  fifty  houses  pretty  near 


36  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

each  other,  with  a  large  square,  or  rather  area,  in  the  middle, 
announces  the  progress  of  this  town,  which  is  already  the 
county  town ;  for  America  is  divided  into  districts,  called  Coun 
ties,  in  some  Provinces,  as  in  England.  It  is  in  the  capital  of 
these  counties  that  the  court  of  sessions  is  held,  where  the 
Sheriff  presides,  and  where  the  Chief  Judges  come  every  four 
months  to  decide  civil  and  criminal  affairs.  Half  a  mile  on 
this  side  of  Litchfield,  I  remarked,  on  the  right,  a  barrack  sur 
rounded  by  palisades,  which  appeared  to  me  like  a  guard 
house  ;  I  approached  it,  and  saw  in  this  small  enclosure  ten 
pieces  of  brass  cannon,  a  mortar,  and  a  swivel.  This  I  learnt 
was  a  part  of  Burgoyne's  artillery,  which  fell  to  the  share  of 
the  state  of  Connecticut,  and  was  kept  in  this  place  as  the 
most  conveniently  situated  for  the  army,  and  at  the  same  time 
the  least  exposed  to  the  incursions  of  the  English. 

It  was  four  o'clock,  and  the  weather  very  bad,  when  I  came 
near  the  house  of  a  Mr.  Seymour,  to  whom  Mr.  Lewis  had 
given  me  a  letter,  assuring  me  that  I  should  nod  better  accom 
modation  than  at  the  taverns ;  but  Mr.  Lynch,  who  had  gone  on 
a  little  before  to  make  inquiries,  informed  me,  that  Mr.  Sey 
mour  was  from  home,  and  that  from  all  appearance  his  wife 
would  be  much  embarrassed  to  receive  us.  The  American 
women,  in  fact,  are  very  little  accustomed  to  give  themselves 
trouble,  either  of  mind  or  body ;  the  care  of  their  children, 
that  of  making  tea,  and  seeing  the  house  kept  clean,  consti 
tutes  the  whole  of  their  domestic  province.  I  determined 
therefore  to  go  straight  to  the  tavern,  where  I  was  still  unlucky 
enough  not  to  find  Mr.  Philips  the  landlord:  so  that  I  was  re 
ceived,  at  least,  with  indifference,  which  often  happens  in  the 
inns  in  America,  when  they  are  not  in  much  frequented  situa 
tions  :  travellers  are  there  considered  as  giving  them  more 
trouble  than  money.  The  reason  of  this  is,  that  the  inn-keepers 
are  all  of  them  cultivators,  at  their  ease,  who  do  not  stand  in 
need  of  this  slight  profit:  the  greatest  number  of  those  who 
follow  this  profession  are  even  compelled  to  it  by  the  laws  of 
the  country,  which  have  wisely  provided,  that  on  all  the  great 
roads  there  shall  be  a  public  house  at  the  end  of  every  six 
miles,  for  the  accommodation  of  travellers. 

A  still  greater  difficulty  I  had  at  Mrs.  Philips',  was,  to  find 
room  for  nine  horses  I  had  with  me.  The  Quarter-Master  at 
length  made  them  place  some  of  them  in  the  stable  of  a  private 
person,  and  every  thing  was  arranged  to  my  satisfaction,  and 
that  of  my  hostess.  I  cannot  help  remarking,  that  nothing 
can  be  more  useful  than  such  an  officer,  as  well  for  the  service 
of  the  state,  as  for  that  of  any  traveller  of  distinction.  I  Have 
already  spoken  of  the  functions  of  the  Quarter-Master-Gene 
ral,  but  I  did  not  mention  that  he  names  a  deputy  Quarter- 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  37 

Master-General  in  each  state,  and  that  the  latter,  in  his  turn, 
names  an  assistant  in  each  district  to  act  in  his  room.  My 
horses  and  baggage  were  scarcely  under  cover,  when  a  dreadful 
storm  came  on,  which  however  was  in  my  favour,  as  it  brought 
home  Mr.  Philips :  every  thing  now  assumed  a  new  face  in 
the  house,  the  pantry  flew  open,  the  negroes  redoubled  their 
activity,  and  we  soon  saw  a  supper  preparing  with  the  most 
favourable  auspices.  Mr.  Philips  is  an  Irishman,  translated  to 
America,  where  he  has  already  made  a  fortune ;  he  appears 
to  be  cunning  and  adroit;  and  is  cautious  in  talking  to  stran 
gers  :  in  other  respects,  he  is  more  gay  than  the  Americans, 
and  even  given  to  irony ;  a  turn  of  mind  but  little  known  in 
America,  and  for  which  they  have  no  specific  name,  any  more 
than  for  the  different  species  of  trees  and  birds.  Mrs.  Philips, 
now  seconded  by  her  husband,  and  more  mistress  of  her  work, 
soon  resumed  her  natural  serenity.  She  is  of  American  birth, 
and  a  true  Yankee?  as  her  husband  told  us ;  her  face  is  gentle 
and  agreeable,  and  her  manners  correspond  entirely  with  her 
features. 

On  the  19th  I  left  Litchfield  between  nine  and  ten  in  the 
morning,  and  pursued  my  journey  through  the  mountains, 
partly  on  foot  and  partly  on  horseback  ;  for  having  got  into 
the  habit  of  travelling  from  morning  till  night  without  stopping, 
I  from  time  to  time  took  pity  on  my  horses,  and  spared  them 
in  those  deserts  which  seemed  formed  for  the  roebuck  rather 
than  for  carriages  and  laden  horses.  The  name  of  the  first 
town  I  came  to,  proclaims  it  to  be  of  recent  origin  ;  it  is  called 
Washington.  A  new  county  being  formed  in  the  woods  of 
Connecticut,  the  state  has  bestowed  on  it  this  respectable  name, 
the  memory  of  which  will  indisputably  exist  much  longer  than 
the  town  intended  to  perpetuate  it.  There  is  another  county  of 
Washington  in  Virginia,  belonging  to  the  Protector  of  Ame- 

*  This  is  a  name  given  by  way  of  derision,  and  even  simple  plea 
santry,  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  four  eastern  states.  It  is  thought 
to  come  from  a  savage  people '  who  formerly  occupied  this  coun 
try,  and  dwelt  between  the  Connecticut  river,  and  the  state  of  Massa 
chusetts.  The  name  of  Buckskin  is  given  in  the  same  manner 
to  the  inhabitants  of  Virginia,  because  their  ancestors  were  hunters, 
and  sold  buck,  or  rather  deer  skins,  for  we  shall  see  in  another  part  of 
this  work  that  there  are  no  roebucks  in  Virginia.  The  English  army 
serving  in  America,  and  England  herself,  will  long  have  reason  to  re 
member  the  contemptuous  use  they  made  of  this  term  in  the  late  un 
happy  war,  and  the  severe  retort  they  met  with  on  the  occasion.  The 
English  army,  at  Bunker's  Hill,  marched  to  the  insulting  tune  of 
"  Yankee  doodle,"  but  from  that  period  it  became  the  air  of  triumph, 
the  lo  Po?an  of  America,  It  was  cuckoo  to  the  British  ear. — Trans, 


*J8  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

rica;  but  its  great  distance  from  this  new  city  prevents  all  pos 
sible  inconvenience  arising  from  the  identity  of  name.*  This 
capital  of  a  rising  county  has  a  Meeting-house,  and  seven  or 
eight  houses  collected ;  it  is  in  a  beautiful  situation,  and  the 
cultivation  appears  rich  and  well  managed  :  a  rivulet,  which 
runs  at  the  bottom  of  the  valley,  renders  the  meadows  more 
fruitful  than  they  generally  are  in  mountainous  countries.! 
From  hence  to  Litchfield,  they  reckon  seventeen  miles :  I  had 
ten  miles  to  go  to  reach  Moorhouse's  tavern,  where  I  intended 
sleeping,  but  not  taking  the  shortest  road,  I  travelled  at  least 

*  Other  states  have  likewise  commemorated  the  virtues  of  this  great 
man  in  the  same  mariner. —  Trans. 

t  Two  years  after,  the  Author  returned  by  this  place,  where  he  had 
only  seen  a  few  houses,  and  a  single  inn.  The  number  was  almost 
doubled,  and  there  were  three  very  good  and  well  accommodated  inns. 
He  has  remarked  the  same  progress  through  almost  all  the  interior 
parts  of  the  country,  from  the  bay  of  Chesapeake  to  Piscataqua,  that 
is,  through  a  space  of  six  hundred  miles.  This  progress  is  owing,  in 
great  measure,  even  to  the  misfortunes  of  the  war.  The  English  being 
masters  of  the  sea,  made,  or  had  it  in  their  power  to  make,  what  they 
called  depredatory  expeditions.  Marks  of  these  horrid  expeditions 
were  every  where  to  be  met  with  in  travelling  within  fifty  miles  of  the 
coasts  or  rivers.  In  one  of  them  it  was  agitated  by  the  Generals  Gartli, 
Tryon,  and  their  officers,  to  burn  the  beautiful  and  popular  town  of 
New-Haven  in  Connecticut,  with  its  handsome  college,  &c.  The  lat 
ter  General  was  for  z7,  but  happily,  more  humane  and  wiser  spirits  pre 
vailed  in  the  council.  But  this  term,  too  shameful  to  be  adopted  into 
the  vocabulary  of  war,  denoted  only  a  small  part  of  the  ravages  they 
actually  committed ;  murder  and  conflagrations  were  perpetually  the 
incidents  which  occurred.  Hence  it  happened  that  the  citizens  who 
were  the  most  easy  in  their  circumstances,  that  is  to  say,  those  who, 
uniting  commerce  with  agriculture,  had  their  plantations  near  the  coasts, 
or  the  mouths  of  rivers,  abandoned  them  for  more  tranquil  habitations 
in  the  interior  part  of  the  country.  The  little  capital  they  transported 
with  them  was  employed  in  clearing  out  new  settlements,  which  soon 
became  prosperous.  On  the  other  hand,  communications  by  sea  be 
coming  impracticable,  it  was  necessary  to  make  use  of  conveyances 
through  the  country ;  the  roads  in  consequence  were  made  better, 
and  were  more  frequented  ;  inns  multiplied,  as  well  as  the  establish 
ment  of  all  workmen  useful  for  travellers,  such  as  wheelwrights,  black 
smiths,  &c.  So  that,  besides  liberty  and  independence,  the  United 
States  will  derive  this  advantage  from  the  war,  that  commerce  and  popu 
lation  will  be  greatly  increased,  and  that  lands,  which  had  long  remain 
ed  barren,  have  been  so  successfully  cultivated,  as  to  prevent  them 
from  being  again  abandoned. 

The  Translator  had  the  opportunity  of  making  the  same*  remarks, 
not  only  in  a  journey  from  Virginia  to  New-Hampshire,  but  in  many 
of  the  interior  parts  of  the  continent. — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  39 

twelve,  and  always  among  the  mountains.     That  which  I  took 
brought  me  to  a  pretty  considerable  hamlet,  called  New  Mil- 
ford-Bordering  Skirt,  or  the  confines  of  Milford  county,  and 
from  thence  into  so  deep  and  wild  a  valley,  that  I  thought  my 
self  completely  lost,  until  an  opening  in  the  wood  made  me 
perceive,  first  a  meadow  surrounded  by  fences,  then  a  house, 
and  soon  after  another,  and  at  length  a  charming  valley,  with 
several  considerable  farms,  covered  with  cattle.     I  soon  cross 
ed  this  spot  which  belongs  to  the  county  of  Kent,  as  well  as 
the  rivulet  which  flows  through  the  middle  of  it,  and  after 
travelling  three  miles  farther  in  the  mountains,  I  reached  the 
banks  of  the  Housatonick,  or  the  river  of  Stratford.     It  is  un 
necessary  to  remark  that  the  first  is  the  genuine  name,  that  is, 
the  name  given  it  by  the  savages,  the  ancient  inhabitants  of  the 
country.     This  river  is  not  navigable,  and  is  easily  forded  near 
Bull's  iron  works.     We  then  turn  to  the  left  and  pass  along  its 
banks;  but. if  one  is  sensible  to  the  beauties  of  nature,  if  on 
seeing  the  paintings  of  Fernet  and  Robert,  one  has  learnt  to 
admire  its  models,  it  is  impossible  not  to  be  lost  in  admiration 
at  the  view  of  the  charming  landscape,  formed  by  the  combi 
nation  of  the  forges,  of  the  fall  of  water  which  seems  to  work 
them,  and  of  the  variegated  prospect  of  tree;?  and  rocks,  with 
which  this  picturesque  scene  is  embellished.     At  the  distance 
of  a  mile  we  again  pass  the  same  river  on  a  wooden  bridge ; 
we  soon  meet  with  another  called  Ten-mile  river,  which  falls 
into  this,  and  which  we  follow  for  two  or  three  miles,  and  then 
come  in  sight  of  several  handsome  houses,  forming  a  part  of 
the  district  called  the  Oblong.     It  is  a  long  narrow  slip  of 
land,  ceded  by  Connecticut  to  the  state  of  New-York,  in  ex 
change  for  some  other  territory.  The  inn  I  was  going  to  is  in  the 
Oblong,  but  two  miles  farther  on.     It  is  kept  by  Colonel  Moor- 
house  ;  for  nothing  is  more  common  in  America  than  to  see  an 
inn-keeper  a  colonel :   they  are  in  general  militia  colonels, 
chosen  by  the  militia  themselves,  who  seldom  fail  to  entrust 
the  command  to  the  most  esteemed,  and  most  creditable  citi 
zens.* 

I  pressed  forward  my  horses,  and  hurried  on  to  get  the  start 
of  a  traveller  on  horseback,  who  had  joined  me  on  the  road, 
and  who  would  have  had  the  same  right  with  myself  to  the 
lodgings,  had  we  arrived  together.  I  had  the  satisfaction, 
however,  to  see  him  pursue  his  journey  ;  but  soon  learnt,  with 

*  At  Leesburgh  in  Virginia,  in  my  way  to  visit  General  Gates,  I 
staid  three  days  at  the  house  of  an  Englishman,  a  native  of  Bristol,  a 
man  of  five  foot  high,  who  united,  in  his  own  person,  the  offices  of 
Colonel,  Justice  of  the  Peace,  Parish  Clerk,  and  Innkeeper,  nor  was 
he  deficient  in  any  of  these  functions. — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

concern,  that  the  little  inn  where  I  proposed  to  pass  that 
night,  was  occupied  by  thirteen  farmers,  and  two  hundred 
and  fifty  oxen  coming  from  New-Hampshire.  The  oxen  were 
the  least  inconvenient  part  of  the  company,  as  they  were  left 
to  graze  in  a  meadow  hard  by,  without  even  a  dog  to  guard 
them ;  but  the  farmers,  their  horses,  and  dogs,  were  in  posses 
sion  of  the  inn.  They  were  conveying  to  the  army  a  part  of 
the  contingent  of  provisions  furnished  by  New-Hampshire. 
This  contingent  is  a  sort  of  tax  divided  among  all  the  inha 
bitants,  on  some  of  whom  the  imposition  amounts  to  one  hun 
dred  and  fifty,  on  others  to  one  hundred,  or  eighty  pounds  of 
meat,  according  to  their  abilities ;  so  that  they  agree  among 
themselves  to  furnish  a  larger,  or  smaller  sized  ox,  no  matter 
which,  as  each  animal  is  weighed.  Their  conveyance  to  the 
army  is  then  entrusted  to  some  farmers,  and  drovers.  The 
farmers  are  allowed  about  a  dollar  a  day,  and  their  expenses, 
us  well  as  those  of  the  cattle,  are  paid  them  on  their  return, 
according  to  the  receipts  they  are  obliged  to  produce  from  the 
-inn-keepers  where  they  have  halted.  The  usual  price  is  from 
three-pence  to  five-pence  English  per  night  for  each  ox,  and  in 
proportion  at  noon. 

I  informed -myself  of  these  particulars  whilst  my  people  were 
endeavouring  to  find  me  lodgings;  but  all  the  rooms,  and  all 
the  beds   were  occupied  by  these  farmers,  and  I  was  in  the 
greatest  distress,  when  a  tall,  fat  man,  the  principal  person 
among  them,  being  informed  who  I  was,  came  to  me,  and 
assured  me,  that  neither  he,  nor  his  companions  would  ever  suf 
fer  a  French  General  Officer  to  want  a  bed,  and  that  they 
would  rather  sleep  on  the  floor ;  adding,  that  they  were  accus 
tomed  to   it,  and  that  it  would  be  attended  with  no  inconve 
nience.     In  reply,  I  told  them  I   was  a  military  man,  and  as 
much  accustomed  as  themselves  to  make  the  earth  my  bed. 
We  had  long  debates  on  this  point  of  politesse ;    theirs  was 
rustic,  but  more  cordial  and  affecting  than  the  best  turned 
compliments.     The  result  was,  that  I  had  a  two-bedded  room 
for  myself  and  my  aids-de-camp.      But  our  acquaintance  did 
not  terminate  there  :  after  parting  from  each  other,  I  to  take 
.some  repose,  they  to  continue  drinking  their  grog  and   cider, 
they  came  into  my  room.     I  was  then  employed  in  tracing  my 
route  by  the  map  of  the  country;    this  map  excited  their 
curiosity.     They  saw  there  with  surprise  and  satisfaction  the 
places  they  had  passed  through.     They  asked  me  if  they  were 
known  in  Europe,  and  if  it  was  there  I  had  bought  my  maps. 
On  my  assuring  them  that  we  knew  America  as  well  as  the 
countries  adjoining  to  us,  they  seemed  much  pleased ;    but 
their  joy  was  without  bounds,  when  they  saw  New-Hampshire, 
their  country,  on  the  map.     They  called  their  companions 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  41 

who  were  in  the  next  room ;  and  mine  was  soon  filled  with 
the  strongest  and  most  robust  men  I  had  hitherto  seen  in 
America.  On  my  appearing  struck  with  their  size  and  stature, 
they  told  me  that  the  inhabitants  of  New-Hampshire  were 
strong  and  vigorous,  for  which  there  were  many  reasons  ;  that 
the  air  was  excellent,  their  sole  occupation  was  agriculture, 
and  above  all  that  their  blood  was  unmixed  :  this  country 
being  inhabited  by  ancient  families  who  had  emigrated  from 
England.  We  parted  good  friends,  touching,  or  rather  shaking 
hands  in  the  English  fashion,  and  they  assured  me  that  they 
were  very  happy  to  have  an  opportunity  to  shake  hands  with  a 
French  General* 

The  horse  which  carried  my  portmanteau,  not  travelling  so 
fast  as  me,  did  not  come  up  till  the  next  morning,  so  that  it 
was  ten  o'clock  on  the  20th  of  December,  before  I  could  set 
out.  Three  miles  from  Moorhouse's  is  a  very  high  hill ;  we 
then  descend,  but  not  quite  so  much  as  we  ascended ;  the 
road  here  is  over  elevated  ground,  leaving  large  mountains  on 


*  The  translator,  who  as  a  disinterested,  and  determined  friend  to 
the  rights  of  mankind,  and  to  the  principles  of  the  English  Constitution, 
could  not  but  wish  success  to  America  in  her  glorious  struggle  ;  as  a 
native  of  England  had  many  similar  occasions  for  interesting  reflections 
on  the  vicissitude  of  human  affairs,  and  of  the  wickedness  of  those  who 
too  frequently  direct  them.  But  in  no  instance  was  this  more  striking 
than  in  Virginia,  where  he  saw  the  French  army  encamped  on  the  very 
spot,  from  whence  Braddock  set  out  on  his  unfortunate  expedition 
against  the  French,  five  and  twenty  years  before.  The  traces  of  his 
encampment  were  still  evident.  In  this  expedition  he  was  not  only 
well  seconded  by  the  Provincials,  but  had  their  advice  been  followed, 
his  success  would  have  been  very  different.  It  is  worth  observing  too, 
that  no  less  than/owr  of  the  most  distinguished  of  the  American*  Ge 
nerals,  were  with  him  on  the  expedition.  General  Washington  was 
his  aid-de-camp,  and  after  dissuading  him  as  much  as  possible  from 
forming  his  army  in  the  European  manner,  (the  mistake  which  proved 
fatal  to  him,)  received  him  when  mortally  wounded  in  his  arms  ;  Ge 
neral  Lee,  was  in  a  detached  party  from  the  main  body  of  the  army  ; 
General  Gates  served  in  the  army,  and  General  Stephens  was  shot 
through  the  body  in  the  engagement :  Lee  and  Gates  were  English 
men,  and  Stephens  a  Scotchman  ;  all  the  four  were  now  become  in 
habitants  of  Virginia.  On  the  anniversary  of  that  unfortunate  day,  the 
translator  dined  in  the  back  part  of  the  country  at  General  Gates', 
with  General  Stephens,  from  whom  he  had  many  curious  particulars ; 
nor  was  the  wonderful  revolution  in  the  affairs  and  minds  of  men,  the 
subject  of  less  anxious  discussion  with  them,  than  with  the  translator. 
At  the  time  he  is  speaking  of,  indeed,  during  their  whole  stay,  nothing 
could  be  more  cordial  and  sincere  than  the  kind  reception  given  to  tho 
French  by  the  Virginians. — Trans. 

6 


42  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

the  left.  The  country  is  well  cultivated ;  affording  the  pros 
pect  of  several  pretty  farms,  with  some  mills ;  and  notwith 
standing  the  war,  Hopel  township  is  building,  inhabited  chiefly 
by  Dutch  people,  as  well  as  the  greatest  part  of  the  state  oi 
New- York,  which  formerly  belonged  to  the  republic  of  Hol 
land,  who  exchanged  it  for  Surinam.  My  intention  was  to 
sleep  five  miles  on  this  side  of  Fishkill,  at  Colonel  Griffin's 
tavern.  I  found  him  cutting  and  preparing  wood  for  fences : 
he  assured  me  his  house  was  full,  which  was  easy  to  be  be 
lieved,  for  it  was  very  small.  I  continued  my  journey  there 
fore,  and  reached  Fishkill  about  four  o'clock.  This  town,  in 
which  there  are  not  more  than  fifty  houses  in  the  space  of  twc 
miles,  has  been  long  the  principal  depot  of  the  Americar 
army.  It  is  there  they  have  placed  their  magazines,  their  hos 
pitals,  their  workshops,  &c.  but  all  these  form  a  town  of  them 
selves,  composed  of  handsome  large  barracks,  built  in  th( 
wood  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains ;  for  the  Americans,  like  the 
Romans  in  many  respects,  have  hardly  any  other  winter  quar 
ters,  than  wooden  towns,  or  barricaded  camps,  which  may  be 
compared  to  the  hiemalia  of  the  Romans. 

As  for  the  position  of  Fishkill,  that  it  was  a  post  of  greal 
importance  is  evident  from  the  campaign  of  1777.  It  is  cleai 
that  the  plan  of  the  English  was  to  render  themselves  master* 
of  the  whole  course  of  the  North  River,  and  thus  to  separate 
the  Eastern  and  Western  States.  It  was  necessary  therefore 
to  secure  a  post  on  that  river  ;  West-Point  was  made  choice  ol 
as  the  most  important  to  fortify,  and  Fishkill  as  the  place  the 
best  adapted  to  the  establishment  of  the  principal  depot  oi 
provisions,  ammunition,  &c. :  these  two  positions^are  connected 
together.  I  shall  soon  speak  of  West-Point,  but  I  shall  remark 
here,  that  Fishkill  has  all  the  qualities  necessary  for  a  place 
of  depot,  for  it  is  situated  on  the  high  road  from  Connecticut, 
and  near  the  North  River,  and  is  protected  at  the  same  time 
by  a  chain  of  inaccessible  mountains,  which  occupy  a  space  ol 
more  than  twenty  miles  between  the  Croton  river  and  that  of 
Fishkill. 

The  approach  of  winter  quarters,  and  the  movement  of  the 
troops  occasioned  by  this  circumstance,  made  lodgings  very 
scarce :  it  was  with  difficulty  I  found  any,  but  I  got  at  last 
into  a  middling  inn,  next  by  an  old  Mrs.  Egremont.  The 
house  was  not  so  clean  as  they  usually  are  in  America ;  but 
the  most  disagreeable  circumstance  was  the  want  of  several 
panes  of  glass.  In  fact,  of  all  repairs,  that  of  windows  is  the 
most  difficult,  in  a  country  where,  from  the  scattered  situation 
and  distance  of  the  houses  from  each  other,  it  is  sometimes 
necessary  to  send  twenty  miles  for  a  glazier.  We  made  use  of 
every  thing  that  came  to  hand  to  patch  up  the  windows  in  the 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH  AMERICA.       4;} 

best  way  we  could,  and  we  made  an  excellent  fire.     Soon  after, 

the  doctor  of  the  hospital,  who  had  seen  me  pass,  and  knew 

me  to  be  a  French  General-Officer,  came  with  great  politeness 

to  see  if  I  wanted  any  thing,  and  to  offer  me  every  service  in 

his  power.     I  make  use  of  the  English  word  doctor,  because 

the  distinction  of  surgeon  and  physician  is  as  little  known  in 

the  army  of  Washington,  as  in  that  of  Agamemnon.     We  read 

in  Homer,  that  the   physician   Macaon   himself  dressed  the 

wounds  ;  but  our  physicians,  who  are  no  Greeks,  will  not  follow 

that  example.     The  Americans  conform  to  the  ancient  custom, 

and  it  answers  very  well ;  they  are  well  pleased  with  their 

doctors,  whom  they  hold  in  the  highest  consideration.     Doctor 

Craig,  whom  I  knew  at  Newport,  is  the  intimate  friend  of 

General  Washington  ;  and  the  Marquis  de  la  Fayette  had  very 

lately    an   aid-de-camp,  Colonel  MacHenry,   who    the   year 

before  performed  the  functions  of  doctor  in  the  same  army.* 

The  21st,  at  nine  in  the  morning,  the  Quarter-Master  of 
Fishkill,  who  had  come  the  night  before  with  the  utmost  po 
liteness  to  offer  me  his  services,  and  to  place  two  sentinels  at 
the  door,  an  honour  I  refused  in  spite  of  every  thing  he  could 
say,  called  upon  me  ;  and  after  drinking  tea  according  to  cus 
tom,  he  conducted  me  to  see  the  barracks,  the  magazines,  and 
workhouses  of  the  different  workmen  employed  in  the  service 
of  the  army.  These  barracks  are  wooden  houses,  well  built, 
and  well  covered,  having  garrets,  and  even  cellars,  so  that  we 
should  form  a  false  idea,  were  we  to  judge  of  them  by  what  we 
see  in  our  armies,  when  our  troops  are  barraquts.  The  Ameri 
cans  sometimes  make  them  like  like  ours,  but  this  is  merely 


*  My  old  friend  Rumney,  whom  I  had  the  happiness  to  meet  with 
after  an  absence  of  twenty  years,  during   which  time  he  has  been 
settled  at  Alexandria  in  Virginia,  (whose  respectable  father  has  been 
forty  years  master  of  the  Latin  school  at  Alnwick  in  Northumberland, 
and  his  uncle  clergyman  of  Berwick,)  had  served  more  than  one  cam 
paign  as  colonel,  doctor,  and  surgeon  in  the  army  ;  he  is  held  in  the 
highest  esteem,  and  is  on  terms  of  the  greatest  friendship  with  Gene 
ral  Washington,  at  whose  house  I  spent  some  days  with  him.     But  it 
is  impossible  to  conceive  the  estimation  in  which  all  the  medical  men, 
attached   to   the  army,  were  held  during  the  war,  by  the  people  in 
general,  as  well  as  the  military.      I  travelled  from  Philadelphia  to  the 
the  American  camp  on  the  North  river,  with  Mr.  Craigie  of  that  de 
partment,  a  most  respectable  young  man,  and  was  witness  to  the 
grateful  acknowledgments  his  countrymen  seemed  every  where  to  be 
stow  on  him,  for  the  service  he  was  rendering  their  suffering  fellow- 
citizens,  nor  indeed  could  any  thing  exceed  the  zeal,  perseverance,  and 
attention  of  this  department  under  the  most  discouraging  circum 
stances. — Trans. 


44  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

to  cover  the  soldiers  when  they   are   more  within  reach  of 
the  enemy.     They  call  these  huts,  and  they  are  very  expert 
in  constructing  one  and  the  other.     They  require  only  three 
days  to  build  the  former,  reckoning  from  the  moment  they  be 
gin  to  cut  down  the  trees ;  the  others  are  finished  in  four  and 
twenty  hours.     They   consist  of  little  walls  made  of  stones 
heaped  up,  the  intervals  of  which  are  filled  with  earth  kneaded 
with  water,  or  simply  with  mud ;  a  few  planks  form  the  roof, 
but  what  renders  them  very  warm  is  that  the  chimney  occu 
pies  the  outerside,  and  that  you  can  only  enter  by  a  small 
door,  at  the  side  of  the  chimney.     The  army  has  passed  whole 
winters  under  such  huts,  without  suffering,  and  without  sick 
ness.     As  for  the  barracks,  or  rather  the  little  military  town  of 
Fishkill,  such  ample  provision  is  made  for  every  thing  which 
the  service  and  discipline  of  the  army  may  require,  that  a 
prevote  and  a  prison  are  built  there,  surrounded  by  palisades. 
One  gate  only  affords  access  to  the  enclosure  of  the  prevote  ; 
and  before  it  is  placed  a  guard-house.     Through  the  window- 
bars  of  the  prison,  I  distinguished  some  prisoners,  with  the 
English  uniform;    they  were  about  thirty  soldiers,  or  regi 
mented  tories.     These  wretches  had  accompanied  the  savages 
in  the  incursion  they  had  made   by  Lake  Ontario  and  the 
Mohawk  river.      They  had  burnt  upwards  of  two   hundred 
houses,  killed  the  horses  and  cows,  and  destroyed  above  one 
hundred  thousand  bushels  of  corn.     The  gallows  should  have 
been  the  reward  of  these  exploits,  but  the  enemy  having  also 
made  some  prisoners,  reprisals  were  dreaded,  and  these  robbers 
were  only  confined  in  rigorous  and  close  imprisonment. 

After  passing  some  time  in  visiting  these  different  settle 
ments,  I  got  on  horseback,  and  under  the  conduct  of  a  guard 
which  the  Quarter-Master  gave  me,  I  entered  the  wood  and 
followed  the  road  to  West-Point,  where  T  wished  to  arrive  for 
dinner.  Four  or  five  miles  from  Fishkill,  I  saw  some  felled 
trees,  and  an  opening  in  the  wood,  which  on  coming  nearer  I 
discovered  to  be  a  camp,  or  rather  huts  inhabited  by  some 
hundred  invalid  soldiers.  These  invalids  were  all  in  very  good 
health;  but  it  is  necessary  to  observe,  that  in  the  American 
armies,  every  soldier  is  called  an  invalid,  who  is  unfit  for  ser 
vice;  now  these  had  been  sent  here  because  their  clothes 
were  truly  invalids.  These  honest  fellows,  for  I  will  not  say 
creatures,  (they  know  too  well  how  to  suffer,  and  are  suffering 
in  too  noble  a  cause)  were  not  covered,  even  witi;  rags ;  but 
their  steady  countenances,  and  their  good  arms  in  good  order, 
seemed  to  supply  the  defect  of  clothes,  and  to  display  nothing 
but  their  courage  and  their  patience.  Near  this  camp  I  met 
with  Major  Liman,  aid-de-camp  to  General  Heath,  with  whom 
I  was  particularly  intimate  at  Newport,  and  Mr.  de  Ville 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  45 

Tranche,  a  French  officer,  serving  as  an  Engineer  at  West- 
Point.     General  Heath  had  been  informed  of  my  arrival  by  an 
express,  sent  without  my  knowledge,  by  the  Quarter-Master  of 
Fishkill,  and  he  had  despatched  these  two  officers  to  meet  me. 
I  continued  my  journey  in  the  woods,  in  a  road  hemmed  in  on 
both  sides  by  very  steep  hills,  which  seemed  admirably  adapted 
for  the  dwelling  of  bears,  and  where  in  fact  they  often  make 
their  appearance  in  winter.     We  availed  ourselves  at  length  of 
a  less  difficult  part  of  these  mountains  to  turn  to  the  westward 
and  approach  the  river,  but  which  is  still  invisible.    Descending 
them  slowly,  at  the  turning  of  the  road,  my  eyes  were  struck 
with  the  most  magnificent  picture  I  had  ever  beheld.     It  was  a 
view  of  the  North  river,  running  in  a  deep  channel  formed  by 
the  mountains,  through  which  in  former  ages  it  had  forced  its 
passage.     The  fort  of  West-Point  and  the  formidable  batteries 
which  defend  it  fix  the  attention  on  the  western  bank,  but  on 
lifting  your  eyes  you  behold  on  every  side  lofty  summits,  thick 
set  with  redoubts  and  batteries.     I  leaped  off  my  horse,  and 
viewed  them  a  long  time  with  my  spying  glass,  the  only  method 
of  acquiring  a  knowledge  of  the  whole  of  the  fortifications  with 
which  this  important  post  is  surrounded.     Two  lofty  heights, 
on  each  of  which  a  large  redoubt  is  constructed,  protect  the 
eastern  bank.     These  two  works  have  no  other  name  than  the 
northern,  and  the  southern  redoubts  ;  but  from  the  fort  of  West- 
Point  properly  so  called,  which  is  on  the  edge  of  the  river,  to 
the  very  top  of  the  mountain  at  the  foot  of  which  it  stands,  are 
six  different  forts,  all  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre,  and  pro 
tecting  each  other.     They  compelled  me  to  leave  this  place, 
where  I  should  willingly  have  spent  the  whole  day,  but  I  had 
not  travelled  a  mile  before  I  saw  the  reason  of  their  hurrying 
me.     I  perceived  a  corps  of  infantry  of  about  two  thousand 
five  hundred  men,  ranged  in  a  line  of  battle  on  the  bank  of  the 
river.     They  had  just  passed  it  to  proceed  by  Kingsbridge,  and 
cover  a  grand  foraging  party  which  it  was  proposed  to  send 
towards  the  White-Plains,  and  to   the  gates   of  New-York. 
General  Stark,  who  beat  the  English  at  Bennington,  had  the 
command  of  these  troops,  and  General  Heath  was  at  their 
head ;  he  was  desirous  of  letting  me  see  them  before  they 
marched.     I  passed  before  the  ranks,  being  saluted  with  the 
espontoon  by  all  the  officers,  and  the  drums  beating  a  march, 
an  honour  paid  in  America  to  Major-Generals,  who  are  the  first 
in  rank,  though  it  only  corresponds  with  our  Marechal  de  Camp. 
The  troops  were  ill  clothed,  but  made  a  good  appearance  ;  as 
for  the  officers  they  were  every  thing  that  could  be  wished,  as 
well  for  their  countenance,  as  for  their  manner  of  marching, 
and  giving  the  command.     After  passing  the  front  of  the  line, 
they  broke  it,  filed  off  before  me,  and  continued  their  route. 
General  Heath  conducted  me  to  the  river,  where  his  barge  was 


46  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

waiting  to  carry  me  to  the  other  side.     A  new  scene  now 
opened  to  my  view,  not  less  sublime  than  the  former.     We 
descended  with  our  faces  towards  the  north  :  on  that  side  is  an 
island  covered  with  rocks,  which  seem  to  close  the  channel  of 
the  river,  but  you  soon  perceive,  through  a  sort  of  embrasure 
formed  by  its  bed  in  separating  immense  mountains,  that  it 
comes  ^Mirmely  from  the  westward,  and   that  it  has  made  a 
sudden  turn  round  West  Point  to  open  »tsell  a  passage,  and  to 
endeavour  to  gain  the  sea,  without  making  hereafter  the  small 
est  bend.     The  eye  carrying  itself  towards  the  North  Bay  and 
Constitution-Island,  (the  isle  I  have  been  speaking  of)  again 
perceives  the  river,  distinguishes    New-Windsor  on   its  left 
bank,  and  is  then  attracted  by  different  amphitheatres  formed 
by  the  Apals'-hian  Mountains,  the  nearest  summits  of  which, 
that  terminate  the  scene,  are  distant  upwards  of  thirty  miles. 
We  embarked  in  the  barge,  and  passed  the  river,  which  is 
about  a  mile  wide.     As  we  approached  the  opposite  shore,  the 
fort  of  West-Point,  which,  seen  from  the  eastern  bank,  seemed 
humbly  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  elevated  itself  to 
our  view,  and  appeared  like  the  summit  of  a  steep  rock  ;  this 
rock  however  was  only  the  bank  of  the  river.     Had  I  not 
remarked  that  the  chinks  on  it,  in  several  places,  were  embra 
sures  for  cannon,  and  formidable  batteries,  I  should  soon  have 
been  apprised  of  it  by  thirteen  twenty-four  pounders,  which 
were  fired  successively.     This  was  a  military  salute,  with  which 
General  Heath  was  pleased  to  honour  me  in  the  name  of  the 
Thirteen  States.     Never  was  honour  more  commanding,  nor 
more  majestic ;  every  gun,  was,  after  a  long  interval,  echoed 
back  from  the  opposite  bank,  with  a  noise  nearly  equal  to  that 
of  the  discharge  itself.     When  we  recollected  that  two  years 
ago  West- Point  was  a  desert,  almost  inaccessible,  that  this 
desert  has  been  covered  with  fortresses  and  artillery,  by  a  peo 
ple,  who  six  years  before  had  scarcely  ever  seen  cannon  ;  when 
we  reflect  that  the  fate  of  the  United  States  depended  in  great 
measure  on  this  important  post;    and  that  a  horse  dealer,* 
transformed  into  a  general,  or  rather  become  a  hero,  always 
intrepid,  always  victorious,  but  always  purchasing  victory  at 
the  price  of  his  blood  ;  that  this  extraordinary  man.  at  once 
the  honour,  and  the  opprobrium  of  his  country,  actually  sold, 
and  expected  to  deliver  this  Palladium  of  American  liberty  to 
the  English ;  when  so  many  extraordinary  circumstances  are 
brought  together  in  the  physical  and  moral  order  of  things,  it 
may  easily  be  imagined  that  I  had  sufficient  exercise  for  reflec 
tion,  and  that  I  did  not  tire  on  the  road. 


Benedict  Arnold. — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  47 

On  landing,  or  rather  on  climbing  the  rocks  on  the  banks 
of  the  river,  we  were  received  by  Colonel  Lamb,  and  Major 
Bowman,  both  officers  of  artillery ;  by  Major  Fish,  a  handsome 
young  man,  witty  and  well  formed ;  and  Major  Franks,  for 
merly  aid-de-camp  to  Arnold.  The  latter  had  been  tried  and 
honourably  acquitted  by  a  council  of  war,  demanded  by  him 
self  after  the  escape  and  treason  of  his  General.  He  speaks 
good  French,  as  well  as  Colonel  Lamb,  which  they  both  learnt 
in  Canada,  where  they  were  settled.  The  latter  received  a 
musket  shot  in  his  jaw  at  the  attack  of  Quebec,  righting  by 
the  side  of  Arnold,  and  having  early  penetrated  into  the  upper 
town.  Pressed  by  dinner  time  we  went  immediately  to  Gene 
ral  Heath's  barrack.  The  fort,  which  was  begun  on  much  too 
extensive  a  plan,  has  been  since  curtailed  by  Mr.  du  Portail, 
so  that  this  barrack  is  no  longer  within  its  precincts.  Around 
it  are  some  magazines,  and  farther  to  the  north-west,  barracks 
for  three  or  four  battalions  ;  they  are  built  of  wood,  and  simi 
lar  to  those  of  Fishkill.  Whilst  dinner  was  preparing,  General 
Heath  took  me  into  a  little  closet,  which  served  him  as  a  bed 
chamber,  and  showed  me  the  instructions  he  had  given  Gene 
ral  Stark  for  the  grand  foraging  party  he  commanded.  This 
expedition  required  a  movement  of  troops  in  a  space  of  more 
than  fifty  miles ;  and  I  can  affirm,  that  they  were  as  well  con 
ceived  as  any  instructions  of  that  kind  I  have  ever  seen,  either 
in  print,  or  manuscript.  He  showed  me  also  a  letter  in 
which  General  Washington  only  ordered  him  to  send  this  de 
tachment,  and  pointed  out  its  object,  without  communicating 
to  him,  however,  another  operation  connected  with  it,  which 
was  to  take  place  on  the  right  bank  of  the  North  river. 
From  various  intelligence,  by  indirect  ways,  General  Heath 
was  persuaded,  that  in  case  the  enemy  collected  his  force  to 
interrupt  the  forage,  Mr.  de  la  Fayette  would  attack  Staten- 
Island,  and  he  was  not  deceived  ;  but  Mr.  Washington  con 
tented  himself  with  announcing  generally  some  movements  on 
his  side,  adding,  that  he  waited  for  a  more  safe  method  of 
communicating  the  nature  of  them  to  General  Heath.  Se 
crecy  is  strictly  observed  in  the  American  army ;  very  few 
persons  are  in  the  confidence  of  the  Commander,  and  in  ge 
neral  there  is  less  said  of  the  operations  of  war,  of  what  we 
call  news,  than  in  the  French  army. 


CHAPTER  III. 


WEST-POINT FORT  CLINTON KING  S   FERRY STONEY  POINT 

VERPLANK'S   POINT — TOTOHAW   FALL — WASHINGTON'S   HEAD 
QUARTERS. 

GENERAL  Heath  is  so  well  known  in  our  little  army,  that  J 
should  dispense  with  entering  into  particulars  respecting  him, 
if  this  Journal,  in  which  I  endeavour  to  recollect  what  little  I 
have  seen   in  this  country,  were  not  destined  at  the  same 
time  to  satisfy  the  curiosity  of  others  who  have  not  crossed  the 
sea,  and  to  whose  amusement  I  am  desirous  of  contributing. 
This  General  was  one  of  the  first  who  took  up  arms,  at  the 
blockade  of  Boston,  and  having  at  first  joined  the  army  in  the 
quality  of  Colonel,  he  was  immediately  raised  to  the  rank  of 
Major-General.      He  was  at  that  time  a  substantial  farmer  or 
rich  gentleman  ;  for  we  must  not  lose  sight  of  the  distinction, 
that  in  America,  farmer  means  cultivator,  in  opposition  to 
merchant,  which  every  man  is  called  who  is  employed  in  com 
merce.     Here,  as  in  England,  by  gentleman,  is  understood  a 
person  possessing  a  considerable  freehold,  or  land  of  his  own. 
General  Heath,  then,  was  a  farmer  or  gentleman,  and  reared, 
on  his  estate,  a  great  number  of  cattle,  which  he  sold  for  ships' 
provisions.     But  his  natural  taste  led  him  to  the  studv  of  war ; 
to  which  he  has  principally  applied  himself  since  the  period  in 
which  his  duty  has  concurred  with  his  inclination  ;  he  has  read 
our  best  authors  on  tactics,  and  especially  the  Tactics  of  Mr. 
Guibert,  which  he  holds  in  particular  estimation.     His  fortune 
enabling  him  to  continue  in  the  service,  notwithstanding  the 
want  of  pay,  which  has  compelled  the  less  rich  to  quit  it,  he 
has  served  the  whole  war ;    but  accident  has  prevented  him 
from  being  present  on  the  most  important  occasions.     His 
countenance  is  noble  and  open  ;  and  his  bald  head,  as  well  as 
his  corpulence,  give  him  a  striking  resemblance  to  the  late 
Lord  Granby.      He  writes  well  and  with  ease ;  has  great  sen 
sibility  of  mind,  and  a  frank  and  amiable  character ;  in  short, 
if  he  has  not  been  in  the  way  of  displaying  his  talents  in  ac 
tion,  it  may  be  at  least  asserted,  that  he  is  well  adapted  to  the 
business  oif  the  cabinet.     His  estate  is  near  Boston,  and  he 
commanded  there  when  Burgoyne's  army  were  brought  prison 
ers  thither.     It  was  he  who  put  the  English  General  Philips  in 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  49 

arrest,*  for  want  of  respect  to  the  Congress  ;  his  conduct  on 
this  occasion  was  firm  and  noble.  On  our  arrival  at  Rhode- 
Island,  he  was  sent  there  ;  and  soon  after,  when  Clinton  was 
preparing  to  attack  us,  he  assembled  and  commanded  the  mi 
litia,  who  came  to  our  assistance.  During  his  stay  at  New 
port,  he  lived  honourably,  and  in  great  friendship  with  all  the 
French  officers.  In  the  month  of  September,  General  Wash 
ington,  on  discovering  the  treason  of  Arnold,  sent  for  him, 
and  gave  him  the  command  of  West-Point ;  a  mark  of  confi 
dence  the  more  honourable,  as  none  but  the  most  honest  of  men 
was  proper  to  succeed,  in  his  command,  the  basest  of  all 
traitors. 

After  giving  this  advantageous  but  just  idea  of  General 
Heath,  I  cannot  but  congratulate  myself  on  the  friendship,  and 
thorough  good  understanding  which  subsisted  between  us  du 
ring  his  stay  at  Newport,  where  my  knowledge  of  the  English 
language  rendered  me  the  medium  in  all  affairs  we  had  to  trans 
act  with  him.  It  was  with  real  satisfaction  he  received  me  at 
West-Point ;  he  gave  me  a  plain  but  very  good  dinner.  It  is 
true  there  was  not  a  drop  of  wine  ;  but  I  find  that  with  excel 
lent  cider,  and  toddy,  one  may  very  well  dispense  with  it.  As 
soon  as  we  rose  from  the  table,  we  hurried  to  avail  ourselves  of 
the  remaining  daylight  to  examine  the  fortifications.  The 
first  fort  we  met  with  above  West-Point,  on  the  declivity  of  the 
mountain,  is  called  Fort-Putnam,  from  the  General  of  that 
name.  It  is  placed  on  a  rock  very  steep  on  every  side  ;  the 
ramparts  were  at  first  constructed  with  trunks  of  trees  ;  they 
are  rebuilt  with  stone,  and  are  not  quite  finished.  There  is  a 
powder  magazine  bomb-proof,  a  large  cistern,  and  souterrains 


*  It  nay  now  be  mentioned,  without  any  invidious  imputation,  that 
the  conduct  of  too  many  of  the  British  officers,  when  prisoners  in 
America,  was  as  injurious  to  the  honour  and  interest  of  their  country, 
as  destitute  of  good  sense  and  common  policy  ;  of  this  the  Transla 
tor  saw  many  examples  which  made  him  blush  for  England.  At 
Lancaster  in  Pennsylvania,  in  particular,  he  was  present  at  a  court  of 
inquiry,  instituted  into  the  conduct  of  some  British  officers  who  had 
broken  their  parole  more  than  once,  and  insulted  and  beat  the  inhabi 
tants  of  the  country  ;  nothing  could  beclearer  or  more  decisive  than 
the  evidence,  nor  more  polite  and  indulgent  than  the  behaviour  of  the 
American  officers  who  constituted  the  court,  yet  were  they  openly  in 
sulted  and  contemptuously  treated  by  these  magnanimous  gentlemen 
officers.  Their  names  are  withheld  by  the  Translator,  on  account  of 
their  families  ;  they  were  a  part  of  the  army  taken  at  Yorktown,  with 
Cornwallis.  Captain  Grenville  of  the  Guards,  and  others  who  con 
ducted  themselves  really  like  gentlemen,  can  sa)r  how  well  they  were 
treated. — Trans. 

7 


50  IKAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA, 

for  the  garrison.     Above  this  fort,  and  when  we  reach  the  lofti 
est  summit,  there  are  three  strong  redoubts  lined  with  cannonr 
at  three  different  eminences,  each  of  which  would  require  a 
formal  siege.     The  day  being  nearly  spent,  I  contented  myself 
with  judging  by  the  eye  of  the  very  intelligent  manner   in 
which  they  are  calculated  for  mutual  protection.     Fort  Wallis, 
whither  General  Heath  conducted  me,  was  near  and  more  ac 
cessible.     Though  it  be  placed  lower  than  fort  Putnam,  it  still 
commands  the  river  to  the  south.     It  is  a  large  pentagonal  re 
doubt,  built  of  huge  trunks  of  trees  ;  it  is  picketed,  and  lined 
with  artillery.     Under  the  fire  of  this  redoubt,  and  lower  down, 
is  a  battery  of  cannon,  to  range  more  obliquely  the  course  of 
the  river.     This  battery  is  not  closed  at  the  gorge,  so  that  the 
enemy  may  take,  but  never  keep  it ;  wrhich  leads  me  to  remark 
that  this  is  the  best  method  in  all  field  fortifications.     Batte 
ries  placed  in  works,  have  two  inconveniences  :  the  first  is, 
that  if  these  works  be  ever  so  little  elevated,  they  do  not  graze 
sufficiently ;  and  the  second,  that  the  enemy  may  at  once  at 
tack  the  redoubt  and  the  battery  :  whereas  the  latter  being 
exterior  and  protected  by  the  redoubt,  must  be  first  attacked  ; 
in  which  case  it  is  supported  by  troops  who  have  nothing  to 
fear  for  themselves,  and  whose  fire  is  commonly  better  direct 
ed,  and  does  more  execution.     A  battery  yet  lower,  and  near 
er  to  the  river,  completes  the  security  of  the  southern  part. 

In  returning  to  West-Point,  we  saw  a  redoubt  that  is  suffer 
ed  to  go  to  ruin,  as  being  useless,  which  in  fact  it  is.  It  was 
night  when  we  got  home,  but  what  I  had  to  observe  did  not  re 
quire  daylight.  It  is  a  vast  souterrain,  formed  within  the  fort 
of  West-Point,  where  not  only  the  powder  and  ammunition  ne 
cessary  for  this  post  are  kept  in  reserve,  but  the  deposit  of 
the  whole  army.  These  magazines  completely  filled,  the  nu 
merous  artillery  one  sees  in  these  different  fortresses,  the  pro 
digious  labour  necessary  to  transport,  and  pile  up  on  steep 
rocks,  huge  trunks  of  trees,  and  enormous  hewn  stones,  impress 
the  mind  with  an  idea  of  the  Americans  very  different  from  that 
which  the  English  ministry  have  laboured  to  give  to  Parliament. 
A  Frenchman  would  be  surprised  that  a  nation,  just  rising  into 
notice,  should  have  expended  in  two  years  upwards  of  twelve 
millions  (half  a  million  sterling)  in  this  desert.  He  would  be 
still  more  so  on  learning  that  these  fortifications  cost  nothing 
to  the  state,  being  built  by  the  soldiers,  who  received  not  the 
smallest  gratification,  and  who  did  not  even  receive  their  stated 
pay  ;*  but  he  would  doubtless  feel  some  satisfaction,  in  hearing 


*  The  zeal,  perseverance,  and,  I  may  say,  honour,  which  shone 
forth  in  the  American  army,  in  the  most  arduous  and  extraordinary 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  51 

that  these  beautiful  and  well  contrived  works,  were  planned 
and  executed  by  two  French  Engineers,  Mr.  du  Portail,  and 
Mr.  du  Gouvion,  who  received  no  more  pay  than  their  work 
men. 

But  in  this  wild  and  warlike  abode,  where  one  seems  trans 
ported  to  the  bottom  of  Thrace  and  the  dominions  of  the  god 
Mars,  we  found,  on  our  return  in  the  evening,  some  pretty  wo 
men,  and  an  excellent  dish  of  tea.  Mrs.  Boman,  wife  of  the 
Major  of  that  name,  and  a  young  sister  who  had  accompanied 
her  to  West-Point,  were  waiting  for  us.  They  lodged  in  a  little 
barrack  neatly  arranged.  The  room  they  received  us  in,  was 
hung  with  handsome  paper,  furnished  with  mahogany  tables, 
and  even  ornamented  with  several  prints.  After  staying  a 
little  time,  it  was  necessary  to  return  to  General  Heath's  quar 
ters,  and  to  dispose  matters  for  passing  the  night,  which  was 
not  an  easy  affair ;  for  the  company  were  much  increased  in 


circumstances,  almost  surpass  credibility.  They  were  in  general 
most  wretchedly  clothed,  seldom  received  any  pay,  were  frequently  in 
want  of  every  thing,  from  the  public  scarcity  of  money,  and  the  con 
sequent  indifference  of  the  contractors,  and  had  daily  temptations 
thrown  out  to  them  of  the  most  alluring  nature.  This  army  was  com 
posed  of  all  nations,  yet  they  seemed  to  be  pervaded  but  by  one  spirit, 
and  fought,  and  acted  with  as  much  enthusiastic  ardour  as  the  most  en 
lightened  and  determined  of  their  leaders.  We  all  remember,  when 
their  intolerable  distresses  drove  part  of  them  to  revolt  in  1780,  when 
Clinton  sent  emissaries  among  them,  with  the  most  advantageous  offers, 
and  made  a  movement  of  his  army  to  favour  their  desertion,  that  they 
disdainfully  refused  his  offers,  appealing  to  their  honour,  and  delivered 
up  with  indignation,  the  British  emissaries,  who  were  executed  at 
Trenton.  Mr.  Hugh  Shield,  and  Mr.  John  Maxwell  Nesbett,  two 
Irish  gentlemen  settled  at  Philadelphia,  who  were  entrusted  with  the 
care  of  them,  informed  the  Translator,  that  one  of  them  was  an  officer 
of  some  note  in  the  British  army.  On  the  morning  of  their  execution, 
this  gentleman  desired  Mr.  Shield  to  accompany  him  to  the  necessary, 
wherein  he  staid  some  time,  apparently  with  the  hopes  of  effecting  his 
escape,  but  this  failing  he  addressed  that  gentleman  as  follows.  "  I 
see,  sir,  that  you  are  faithful  to  the  trust  reposed  in  you,  and  that  my 
die  is  cast  ;  but  as  you  are  a  gentleman,  [  hope  you  will  not  fail  to  let 
General  Clinton  know,  that  my  fidelity  is  unshaken,  that  I  die  a  loyal 
subject  to  George  the  Third,  and  that  I  hope  he  will  not  forget  my 
family."  He  then  made  a  hearty  breakfast  of  cold  beef,  and  was  ex 
ecuted  with  his  companion  on  a  tree  near  the  river  Delaware,  full  of 
courage,  and  making  the  same  declarations.  To  account  for  the  su 
bordinate  situation  in  which  Messrs.  Nesbett  and  Shield  appear  to  have 
acted  on  this  occasion,  it  is  necessary  to  observe,  that  on  all  emergen 
cies  the  merchants  of  Philadelphia  flew  to  arms  and  acted  as  common 
soldiers. —  Trans. 


52  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

the  course  of  the  evening,  by  the  arrival  of  the  Vicomte  de 
Noailles,  the  Comte  de  Damas,  and  the  Chevalier  Duplessis. 
Mauduit  had  reached  West-Point,  which  post  they  had  intend 
ed  to  examine  minutely  ;  but  the  motions  of  the  American 
army  determined  them  to  set  out  with  me,  in  order  to  join  Mr. 
de  la  Fayette,  the  next  evening,  or  early  the  following  morning. 
Though  General  Heath  had  a  great  deal  of  company  to  pro 
vide  for,  his  Marechal  de  Logis,  had  not  much  to  do  :  there 
were  only  three  rooms  in  the  barracks  ;  the  General's  cham 
ber,  that  of  his  aid-de-camp,  who  resigned  it  to  me  ;  and  the 
dining-room,  in  which  some  blankets  were  spread  before  a 
large  fire,  where  the  other  gentlemen  passed  as  comfortable  a 
night  as  could  be  expected.  The  morning  gun  soon  summon 
ed  them  from  their  beds  ;  the  blankets  were  removed,  and 
the  dining-room,  resuming  its  rights,  was  quickly  furnished 
with  a  large  table  covered  with  beef-steaks,  which  we  eat  with 
a  very  good  appetite,  swilling  down  from  time  to  time  a  cup 
of  tea.  Europeans  would  not  find  this  food  and  drink,  taken 
together,  to  their  taste  ;  but  I  can  assure  you  that  it  made  a 
very  comfortable  breakfast.  There  now  fell  a  very  heavy  rain, 
which  had  begun  in  the  night,  and  still  continued,  with  a  dread 
ful  wind,  which  rendered  the  passage  of  the  ferry  very  danger 
ous  for  our  horses,  and  prevented  us  from  making  use  of  the 
sail,  in  the  barge  General  Heath  had  given  us,  to  carry  us  to 
King's  Ferry.  In  spite  of  all  these  obstacles  we  embarked 
under  the  firing  of  thirteen  guns,  notwithstanding  our  repre 
sentations  to  the  contrary.  Another  circumstance,  however, 
gave  additional  value  to  these  honours,  for  the  pieces  they  dis 
charged  had  belonged  to  Burgoyne's  army.  Thus  did  the  ar 
tillery  sent  from  Woolwich  to  Canada  in  1777,  now  serve  to 
defend  America,  and  do  homage  to  her  allies,  until  it  was  to  be 
employed  in  the  siege  of  New-York. 

General  Heath,  who  was  detained  by  business  at  West- 
Point,  sent  Major  Liman  to  accompany  me  to  Verplank's- 
Point,  where  we  did  not  arrive  till  between  twelve  and  one, 
after  a  continued  journey  amidst  the  immense  hills  which 
cover  this  country,  and  leave  no  other  interval  than  the  bed 
of  the  river.  The  highest  of  them  is  called  Antony's  Nose, 
it  projects  into  the  river,  and  compels  it  to  make  a  little 
change  in  its  course.  Before  we  arrive  at  this  point,  we  see 
the  ruins  of  fort  Clinton  :  this  fort,  which  was  named  after  the 
governor  of  the  state  of  New- York,  was  attacked  and  taken 
in  1777  by  the  English  General  Clinton,  as  he  was  remount 
ing  the  river  to  Albany  to  give  his  hand  to  Burgoyne.*  It  was 


*  A  poor  fellow  who  was  sent  with  a  letter  from  Burgoyne  to  Clin 
ton  inclosed  in  a  silver  bullet,  miscarried  in  his  message,  and  lost  his 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  &* 

then  the  principal  fort  on  the  river,  and  built  on  a  rock,  at  the 
foot  of  a  mountain,  thought  to  be  inaccessible,  and  was  farther 
defended  by  a  little  creek  which  falls  into  the  main  river. 
Sir  Henry  Clinton  scaled  the  top  of  the  mountain,  himself 
carrying  the  British  colours,  which  he  always  held  aloft,  until 
his  troops  descended  the  steep  rock,  passed  the  creek,  and  car 
ried  the  post.  The  garrison,  consisting  of  700  men,  were  al 
most  all  taken.  Since  the  defeat  of  Burgoyne,  and  the  alli 
ance  with  France  has  changed  the  face  of  affairs  in  America, 
General  Washington  has  not  thought  proper  to  repair  fort 
Clinton ;  he  preferred  placing  his  communication  and  concen 
tring  his  forces  at  West-Point,  because  the  Hudson  there 
makes  a  circuit  which  prevents  vessels  from  remounting  with 
the  wind  abaft,  or  with  the  tide  ;  and  Constitution-Isle,  which 
is  precisely  at  the  turn  of  the  river,  in  a  direction  north  and 
south,  is  perfectly  well  situated  to  protect  the  chain  which 
closes  the  passage  for  ships  of  war. 

The  English,  however,  had  preserved  a  very  important  post 
at  King's  Ferry,  where  they  were  sufficiently  well  fortified ;  so 
that  by  the  aid  of  their  ships,  they  were  masters  of  the  course 
of  the  river  for  the  space  of  more  than  fifty  miles,  and  were 
thus  able  to  repel  to  the  northward  the  very  important  commu 
nication  between  the  Jerseys  and  Connecticut.  Such  was  the 
state  of  things,  when,  in  the  month  of  June,  1779,  General 
Wayne,  who  commanded  in  the  Clove  a  corps  of  1500  men, 
formed  the  project  of  surprising  Stoney-Point.  This  fort  was 
in  an  entrenchment,  surrounded  with  abattis,  which  crowned  a 
steep  rock,  and  formed  a  well  picketed  redoubt.  General 
Wayne  marched,  in  the  night,  in  three  columns,  the  principal 
of  which  was  led  on  by  Monsieur  de  Fleury,  who,  without 
firing  a  musket,  forced  the  abattis,  and  entrenchments,  and 
entered  the  redoubt  with  the  fugitives.*  The  attack  was  so 

life  by  the  sameness  of  names  of  the  American  and  British  command 
ers.  Falling  in,  in  the  woods,  with  a  party  of  Americans  clothed  in 
British  uniform,  which  they  had  taken,  he  inquired  eagerly  for  General 
Clinton  to  whom  he  was  instantly  conducted,  but  on  discovering  that 
it  was  not  the  Clinton  he  was  in  search  of,  in  the  face  of  a  number  of 
spectators,  he  swallowed  the  bullet.  Emetics  and  purgatives  were 
instantly  administered,  which  made  him  disgorge,  and  the  unfortunate 
fellow  was  hanged  on  the  next  tree. —  Trans. 

*  This  officer  had  already  distinguished  himself  on  many  occasions, 
particularly  at  the  retreat  of  General  Sullivan  from  Rhode-Island,  and 
at  the  defence  of  Mud-Island.  He  went  to  America  in  1777.  He 
has  since  been  Major  of  the  regiment  of  Saint  Onge,  and  served  as 
Major  of  brigade  in  the  army  of  the  Count  de  Rochambeau.  On  his 
return  to  France,  he  was  made  Colonel  of  the  regiment  of  Pondicherry, 
and  is  now  in  India, 


54  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

brisk  on  the  part  of  the  Americans,  and  such  the  terror  of  the 
English,  that  Mr.  de  Fleury,  who  was  the  first  that  entered, 
found  himself  in  an  instant  loaded  with  eleven  swords  which 
were  delivered  to  him  by  those  who  asked  for  quarter.  It 
must  be  added  to  the  honour  of  our  allies,  that  from  that  mo 
ment  not  a  drop  of  blood  was  spilt.*  The  Americans,  once 
masters  of  one  of  the  banks  of  the  river,  lost  no  time  in  get 
ting  possession  of  the  other.  Mr.  de  Gouvion  constructed  a 
redoubt  at  Verplank's-Point,  (nearly  opposite,)  where  we 
landed,  and  where,  by  a  lucky  accident,  we  found  our  horses, 
arrived  as  soon  as  us.  This  redoubt  is  of  a  peculiar  form, 
hardly  ever  used  but  in  America :  the  ditch  is  within  the  para 
pet,  which  is  made  steep  on  both  sides,  and  picketed  at  the 
height  of  the  cordon  ;  lodgings  for  the  soldiers  are  formed 
below.  The  middle  of  the  work  is  a  space  constructed  with 
wood,  and  in  the  form  of  a  square  tower.  There  are  battle 
ments  every  where,  and  it  commands  the  rampart.  An  abat- 
tis  formed  of  the  tops  of  trees  interwoven,  surrounds  the  whole, 
and  is  a  substitute  for  a  covered  way.  We  may  easily  per 
ceive  that  such  a  work  cannot  be  insulted,  nor  taken  without 
cannon.  Now  as  this  is  backed  by  the  mountains,  of  which 
the  Americans  are  always  masters,  it  is  almost  impossible  that 
the  English  should  besiege  it.  A  creek  which  falls  into  Hud 
son  river,  and  runs  to  the  southward  of  this  redoubt,  renders 
its  position  still  more  advantageous.  Colonel  Livingston,  who 
commands  at  King's  Ferry,  has  established  himself  there  in 
preference  to  Stoney-Point,  to  be  nearer  the  White-Plains, 


*  I  cannot  here  resist  a  pang  of  sorrow  for  the  dreadful  consequen 
ces  of  the  late  desperate  and  fatal  war.  Captain  Jew  of  the  17th  re 
giment,  as  brave  an  officer,  and  as  amiable  a  man  as  ever  lived,  whom 
I  had  long  known  and  esteemed,  when  serving  with  our  common  friend 
Montgomery  in  that  regiment,  here  lost  his  life,  refusing  to  take  quarter. 
This  gallant  man  was  already  perforated  with  wounds  received  in  Ca 
nada  and  the  West-Indies,  fighting  under  his  Colonel,  General  Monck- 
ton,  in  the  preceding  war,  and  was  such  a  spectacle  of  a  wounded 
body  still  in  life,  as  to  be  particularly  pointed  out  to  the  King  his  mas 
ter's  notice  at  a  review  of  the  regiment  near  London  in  1770  or  1771 ; 
the  King  asked  him  many  questions,  seemed  much  affected  with  his 
situation,  expressed  his  pity,  and — he  was  left  to  pine  a  subaltern,  and 
to  follow  his  regiment  once  more  to  scenes  of  war  and  a  distant  climate. 
He  deeply  felt  this  ever  after,  and  chagrin  no  doubt,  added  to  his  de 
spair,  had  made  him  wish  for  death.  The  fate  of  my  most  intimate 
and  lamented  friend,  Montgomery,  who  fell,  as  he  thought  in  a  better 
cause,  and  on  the  very  spot  where  he  had  attended  Wolfe  to  victory 
and  glory,  affords  ample  food  for  melancholy  reflection,  not  easy  to  be 
effaced  from  susceptible  minds,  and  who  have  felt  a  double  loss  of 
friends,  in  the  horrors  of  this  detestable  war. —  Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  of> 

where  the  English  frequently  made  incursions.  This  is  a  very 
amiable  and  well  informed  young  man.  Previous  to  the  war 
he  married  in  Canada,  where  he  has  acquired  the  French  lan 
guage  :  in  1775,  he  was  one  of  the  first  who  took  arms ;  he 
fought  under  the  orders  of  Montgomery,  and  took  fort  Cham- 
bly,  whilst  the  former  was  besieging  St.  John's.  He  received 
us  in  his  little  citadel  with  great  politeness ;  but  to  leave  it 
with  the  honours  of  war,  the  American  laws  required  that  we 
should  breakfast :  It  was  the  second  we  had  taken  that  dayy 
and  consisted  of  beef-steaks,  and  tea,  accompanied  with  a  few 
bowls  of  grog  ;  for  the  commander's  cellar  was  no  better 
stored  than  the  soldiers'  wardrobe.  The  latter  had  been  sent 
into  this  garrison  as  being  the  worst  clothed  of  the  whole 
American  army,  so  that  one  may  form  some  idea  of  their 
dress. 

About  two  o'clock  we  crossed  the  river,  and  stopped  to  ex 
amine  the  fortifications  of  Stoney-Point.  The  Americans 
finding  them  too  extensive,  had  reduced  them  to  a  redoubt, 
nearly  similar  to  that  of  Verplank's  but  not  quite  so  good. 
There  I  took  leave  of  Mr.  Livingston,  who  gave  me  a  guide 
to  conduct  me  to  the  army,  and  I  set  off,  preceded  by  Mes 
sieurs  de  Noailles,  de  Damas,  and  de  Mauduit,  who  wished  to 
join  Mr.  de  la  Fayette  that  night,  though  they  had  thirty  miles 
to  go,  through  very  bad  roads.  This  impatience  was  well 
suited  to  their  age  ;  but  the  intelligence  I  collected  proving  to 
me  that  the  army  could  not  move  before  the  next  day,  I  deter 
mined  to  stop  on  the  road,  content  to  profit  by  the  little  day 
light  that  remained  to  travel  ten  or  twelve  miles.  On  leaving 
the  river,  I  frequently  turned  round  to  enjoy  the  magnificent 
spectacle  it  presents  in  this  place,  where  its  bed  becomes  so 
large,  that  in  viewing  it  to  the  southward,  it  has  the  appear 
ance  of  an  immense  lake,  whilst  the  northern  aspect  is  that  of 
a  majestic  river.  I  was  desired  to  observe  a  sort  of  promon 
tory,  from  whence  Colonel  Livingston  had  formed  the  project 
of  taking  the  Vulture  sloop  of  war,  which  brought  dlndrc,  and 
was  waiting  for  Arnold.  This  vessel  having  come  too  near 
the  shore,  grounded  at  low  water ;  the  colonel  acquainted 
Arnold  with  it,  and  asked  him  for  two  pieces  of  heavy  cannon, 
assuring  him  that  he  would  place  them  so  as  to  sink  her.  Ar 
nold  eluded  the  proposal  on  frivolous  pretences,  so  that  the 
colonel  could  only  bring  one  four  pounder,  which  was  at  Ver 
plank's  to  bear  on  her.  This  piece  raked  the  vessel  fore  and 
aft,  and  did  her  so  much  damage,  that  if  she  had  not  got  off 
with  the  flood,  she  must  have  struck.  The  next  day  Colonel 
Livingston  being  on  the  shore,  saw  Arnold  pass  in  his  barge, 
as  he  was  going  down  the  river  to  get  on  board  the  frigate. 
He  declares  that  he  had  such  a  suspicion  of  him,  that  had  his 


56  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

guard  boats  been  near,  he  would  have  gone  after  him  instantly, 
and  asked  him  where  he  was  going.  This  question  probably 
would  have  embarrassed  the  traitor,  and  Colonel  Livingston's 
suspicions  being  thence  confirmed,  he  would  have  arrested  him.* 

My  thoughts  were  occupied  with  Arnold  and  his  treason, 
when  my  road  brought  me  to  Smith's  famous  house,  where  he 
had  his  interview  with  Andre,  and  formed  his  horrid  plot.  It 
was  in  this  house  they  passed  the  night  together,  and  where  An 
dre  changed  his  clothes.  It  was  there  that  the  liberty  of  Ame 
rica  was  bargained  for  and  sold  ;  and  it  was  there  that  chance, 
which  is  always  the  arbiter  of  great  events,  disconcerted  this 
horrible  project,  and  that  satisfied  with  sacrificing  the  impru 
dent  Andre,  she  prevented  the  crime,  only  by  the  escape  of 
the  criminal.  Andre  was  repassing  the  river  quietly,  to  gain 
New-York  by  the  White-Plains,  had  not  the  cannon  fired  at 
the  frigate,  made  him  apprehend  the  falling  in  with  the  Ame 
rican  troops.  He  imagined,  that  favoured  by  his  disguise,  he 
should  be  safer  on  the  right  bank :  a  few  miles  from  thence  he 
was  stopped,  and  a  few  miles  farther  he  found  the  gibbet. 

Smith,  who  was  more  than  suspected,  but  not  convicted  of 
being  a  party  in  the  plot,  is  still  in  prison,  where  the  law  pro 
tects  him  against  justice.  But  his  house  seems  to  have  experi 
enced  the  only  chastisement  of  which  it  was  susceptible  ;  it  is 
punished  by  solitude  ;  and  is  in  fact  so  deserted,  that  there  is 
not  a  single  person  to  take  care  of  it,  although  it  is  the  mansion 
of  a  large  farm.f  I  pursued  my  route,  but  without  being  able 
to  give  so  much  attention  as  to  recollect  it ;  I  only  remember 


*  There  is  every  reason  to  believe  that  Arnold's  treachery  took  its 
date  from  his  connexion  with  Lieutenant  Hele,  killed  afterwards  on 
board  the  Formidable  in  the  West-Indies,  and  who  was  undoubtedly 
a  very  active  and  industrious  spy  at  Philadelphia  in  the  winter  of  1778. 
whither  he  was  sent  for  that  purpose  in  a  pretended  flag  of  truce, 
which  being  wrecked  in  the  Delaware,  he  was  made  prisoner  by  Con 
gress,  a  subject  of  much  discussion  between  them,  and  the  commander 
at  New- York.  That  the  intended  plot  was  known  in  England,  and 
great  hopes  built  upon  it,  long  before  it  was  to  take  place,  is  certain. 
General  Matthews  and  other  officers  who  returned  in  the  autumn  of 
1780,  being  often  heard  to  declare,  "  that  it  was  all  over  with  the 
rebels ;  that  they  were  about  to  receive  an  irreparable  blow,  the 
news  of  which  would  soon  arrive,"  &,c.  &c.  Their  silence  from  the 
moment  in  which  they  received  an  account  of  the  failure,  of  the  plot, 
and  the  discovery  of  the  traitor,  evidently  pointed  out  the  object  of 
their  allusions. — Trans. 

t  Smith's  is  a  very  handsome  house,  and  beautifully  situated,  but 
was  in  the  same  desolate  state  when  the  Translator  was  there  in 
1780.— Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  57 

that  it  was  as  gloomy  as  my  reflections ;  it  brought  me  into  a 
deep  vale,  covered  with  cypresses  ;  a  torrent  rolled  over  the 
rocks,  which  I  passed,  and  soon  after  night  came  on.  I  had 
still  some  miles  to  an  inn,  where  I  got  tolerably  well  accommo 
dated.  It  is  situated  in  Haverstraw,  and  is  kept  by  another 
Smith,  but  who  in  no  way  resembles  the  former ;  he  assured 
me  he  was  a  good  whig,  and  as  he  gave  me  a  good  supper,  I 
readily  believed  him. 

The  23d  I  set  out  at  eight  o'clock,  with  the  intention  of  ar 
riving  in  good  time  at  the  Marquis  de  la  Fayette's  camp ;  for 
I  had  learnt  that  the  army  was  not  to  move  that  day,  and  I  was 
desirous  of  being  presented  by  him  to  General  Washington. 
The  shortest  road  was  by  Paramus  ;  but  my  guide  insisted  on 
my  turning  to  the  northward,  assuring  me  that  the  other  road 
was  not  safe,  that  it  was  infested  by  tories,  and  that  he  always 
avoided  it,  when  he  had  letters  to  carry. *  I  took  the  road  to 
the  right  therefore,  and  followed  for  some  time  the  rivulet  of 
Romopog  ;  I  then  turned  to  the  left,  and  soon  got  into  the 
township  of  Pompton,  and  into  the  Totohaw  road  ;  but  being- 
informed  that  it  led  me  straight  to  the  main  body  of  the  army, 
without  passing  by  the  van  commanded  by  M.  de  la  Fayette,  I 
inquired  for  some  cross  road  to  his  quarters,  and  one  was  point 
ed  out  to  me,  by  which,  passing  near  a  sort  of  lake  which  forms 
a  very  agreeable  point  of  view,  and  then  crossing  some  very 
beautiful  woods,  I  arrived  at  a  stream  which  falls  into  Second 
river,  exactly  at  the  spot  where  M.  de  la  Fayette  was  encamp 
ed.  His  posts  lined  the  rivulet ;  they  were  well  disposed,  and 
in  good  order.  At  length  I  arrived  at  the  camp  ;  but  the  Mar 
quis  was  not  there  ;  apprized  of  my  coming  by  the  Vicomte  de 
Noailles,  he  had  gone  to  wait  for  me  at  seven  miles  distance, 
at  head  quarters,  where  he  thought  I  should  direct  my  course. 
He  had  sent,  however,  Major  Gimat,  and  one  of  his  aids-de 
camp  to  meet  me,  but  they  had  taken  the  two  roads  to  Para 
mus  ;  so  that  by  his  precautions,  and  those  of  my  guide,  I  was, 


*  The  guide  gave  the  Marquis  very  true  information,  for  the  Trans 
lator  who  took  the  Paramus  road,  had  several  well  founded  alarms, 
in  passing  through  that  intricate  country.  At  Hopper's  Mill,  near 
Paramus,  where  he  slept  among  myriads  of  rats  in  a  milk  house,  the 
family  assured  him,  that  their  quarters  were  constantly  beat  up,  and 
horses,  men,  &<c.  carried  off.  At  this  place  there  was  no  lock  to  the 
stable  door,  which  they  said  was  here  a  superfluous  article,  as  these 
banditti  were  guilty  of  every  act  of  violence.  He  received  similar 
information  from  his  friend  Doctor  Brown  of  Bridport  in  Dorsetshire, 
but  who  has  been  long  settled  in  America,  and  was  attached  to  the 
continental  army,  with  whom  he  breakfasted,  at  his  beautiful  little 
residence,  next,  morning. —  Trans. 

8 


5b  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

as  they  say  in  English,  completely  disappointed,  for  it  was 
two  o'clock,  and  I  had  already  travelled  thirty  miles  without 
stopping.  I  was  in  the  utmost  impatience  to  embrace  M.  de 
la  Fayette,  and  to  see  General  Washington,  but  I  could  not 
make  my  horses  partake  of  it.  It  was  proposed  to  me  to  pro 
ceed  directly  to  head  quarters,  because,  said  they,  I  might 
perhaps  arrive  in  time  for  dinner.  But  seeing  the  impossibili 
ty  of  that,  and  being  in  a  country  where  I  was  known,  I  de 
sired  some  oats  for  my  horses.  Whilst  they  were  making  this 
slight  repast,  I  went  to  see  the  camp  of  the  Marquis,*  it  is  thus 
they  call  Mr.  de  la  Fayette ;  the  English  language  being  fond 
of  abridgments,  and  titles  uncommon  in  America.  I  found  this 
camp  placed  in  an  excellent  position  ;  it  occupied  two  heights 
separated  by  a  small  bottom,  but  with  an  easy  communication 
between  them.  The  river  Totohaw  or  Second  river,  protects 
its  right,  and  it  is  here  that  it  makes  a  considerable  elbow,  and 
turning  towards  the  south,  falls  at  length  into  the  bay  of  New 
ark.  The  principal  part  of  the  front,  and  all  the  left  flank,  to  a 
great  distance,  are  covered  by  the  rivulet  which  comes  from 
Paramus,  and  falls  into  the  same  rivei\  «This  position  is  only 
twenty  miles  from  New-York  island  ;  and  was  accordingly  oc 
cupied  by  the  van  guard,  consisting  of  light  infantry,  that  is  to 
say,  by  the  picked  corps  of  the  American  army  :  the  regiments, 
in  fact,  which  compose  it,  have  no  grenadiers,  but  only  a  com 
pany  of  light  infantry,  answering  to  our  Chasseurs,  and  of  whom 
battalions  are  formed  at  the  beginning  of  the  campaign.  This 
troop  made  a  good  appearance,  were  better  clothed  than  the 
rest  of  the  army  ;  the  uniforms  both  of  the  officers  and  soldiers 
were  smart  and  military,  and  each  soldier  wore  a  helmet 
made  of  hard  leather,  with  a  crest  of  horse  hair.  The 
officers  are  armed  with  espontoons,  or  rather  with  half 
pikes,  and  the  subalterns  with  fusils  :  but  both  were  provided 


*  It  is  impossible  to  paint  the  esteem  and  affection  with  which  this 
French  nobleman  is  regarded  in  America.  It  is  to  be  surpassed  only 
by  the  love  of  their  illustrious  chief.  He  has  found  the  secret  of  win 
ning  all  their  hearts  ;  nor  to  those  who  know  him  is  it  matter  of  any 
wonder.  In  the  gentlest,  and  most  courteous  manner,  he  unites  a 
frankness,  which  is  supposed  to  be  not  the  general  characteristic  of 
his  countrymen  ;  his  deportment  is  dignified  without  pride ;  and  his 
zeal,  activity,  and  enthusiasm  in  the  cause  of  America,  distinct  from 
all  the  political  views  of  co-operation  with  the  wishes  of. his  court, 
added  to  a  sincere  and  uniform  admiration  of  the  greatest  and  best 
character  of  the  age,  completely  endeared  this  excellent  young  mar. 
to  grateful  America.  The  Marquis  was  never  spoken  of  in  the  hear 
ing  of  the  Translator,  without,  manifest  tokens  of  attachment  and 
affection. — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  59 

with  short  and  light  sabres  brought  from  France,  and  made  a 
present  of  to  them  by  M.  de  la  Fayette.  The  tents  agreeably 
to  the  American  custom,  formed  only  two  ranks  ;  they  were  in 
regular  lines  as  well  as  those  of  the  officers  ;  and  as  the  season 
was  advanced,  they  had  good  chimneys,  but  placed  differently 
from  ours ;  for  they  are  all  built  on  the  outside,  and  conceal 
the  entrance  of  the  tents,  which  produce  the  double  effect  of 
keeping  off  the  wind,  and  of  preserving  heat  night  and  day.  I 
saw  no  piles  of  arms,  and  was  informed  that  the  Americans 
made  no  use  of  them.  When  the  weather  is  good,  each  com 
pany  places  its  fusils  on  a  wooden  horse  ;  but  when  it  rains, 
they  must  be  removed  into  the  tents,  which  is  undoubtedly  a 
great  inconvenience  :  this  will  be  remedied  when  the  means 
of  doing  it  are  more  abundant,  but  I  fear  much,  that  this  will 
not  happen  the  next  year. 

As  I  was  walking  in  the  front  of  the  camp,  I  was  joined  by 
an  officer,  who  spoke  very  good  French  ;  which  was  not  asto 
nishing,  as  he  turned  out  to  be  as  much  a  Frenchman  as  myself; 
this  was  Major  Galvan.  This  officer  came  to  America  on 
commercial  affairs,  on  which  subject  he  has  even  had  a  sort  of 
trial  with  the  Congress  ;  but  he  was  patronized  by  many  per 
sons,  and  particularly  by  the  Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne,  our 
Ambassador :  desiring  to  enter  into  the  service,  he  obtained 
the  rank  of  major,  and  the  command  of  a  battalion  of  light 
infantry.  He  is  a  man  of  abilities,  and  they  are  very  well 
satisfied  with  him  in  the  American  army.*  He  led  me  to  his 


*  Major  Galvan,  with  whom  I  was  well  acquainted  in  Philadelphia, 
was  a  French  West-Indian,  who  came,  as  the  Marquis  de  Chastellux 
mentions,  to  America  on  commercial  affairs.  He  was  allowed  to  be 
an  active  good  officer.  During  his  residence  at  Philadelphia  in  1782, 
lie  became  enamoured  of  a  beautiful  and  accomplished  widow  of  the 
first  distinction  in  the  country.  Having  conceived  the  most  flattering 
hopes  of  success  to  his  passion,  he  was  so  shocked  at  finding  himself 
deceived,  that  he  formed  the  most  desperate  resolution.  After  writing 
a  pathetic,  but  reproachful  letter  to  the  object  of  his  love,  and  another 
to  her  female  friend,  sister  to  Mrs.  Arnold,  and  arranging  all  his  affairs, 
he  spent  the  day  cheerfully  in  company  with  some  brother  officers  at 
the  inn  where  he  lodged,  but  with  some  serious  intervals.  As  soon  as 
the  tea  was  over,  retiring  to  his  room,  he  locked  the  door,  placed  him 
self  opposite  the  looking  glass,  and  with  two  pistols,  one  in  each  hand, 
put  an  end  to  his  existence.  On  my  arrival  at  Bordeaux,  at  the  end 
of  the  war, 'I  fell  in  company  with  a  gentleman,  who  for  several  davs 
was  particularly  inquisitive  about  the  Major's  conduct,  what  the  gen 
eral  opinion  of  him  was,  &c.  Fortunately  his  conduct  was  irreproach 
able  ;  had  it  been  otherwise,  this  gentleman  was  imprudently  searching 
for  pain  to  himself  and  me,  as  he,  to  my  no  small  surprise  and  mortifi 
cation,  declared  himself  to  be  his  brother. — Trans. 


<)U  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH  AMERICA. 

tent,  where  I  found  a  table  neatly  spread :  he  proposed  to  me 
to  dine,  but  I  did  not  accept  it,  imagining  I  should  lose  nothing 
by  waiting  for  that  which  General  Washington  would  give 
me.  After  all  we  had  heard  in  Europe  of  the  distressed  state 
of  the  American  army,  it  will  appear  extraordinary,  perhaps, 
that  such  a  thing  as  a  dinner  was  to  be  found  at  the  tent  of  a 
major.  Doubtless  it  is  impossible  to  live  without  money,  when 
every  thing  one  eats  is  to  be  paid  for ;  a  privilege  the  Ameri 
cans  possess  no  more  than  others.  But  it  must  be  understood, 
that  they  receive  rations  of  provisions,  rum,  and  flour ;  that 
they  have  in  each  regiment  a  baker  to  bake  their  bread,  and 
soldiers  to  serve  them;  so  that  an  officer  who  takes  the  field 
with  a  tent,  and  a  sufficiency  of  clothing,  may  do  very  well 
till  winter  without  spending  any  thing.  The  misfortune  is, 
that  provisions  sometimes  fail,  or  do  not  arrive  in  time  ;  in  which 
case  they  really  suffer ;  but  these  are  critical  moments,  which 
do  not  often  occur,  and  may  be  prevented  in  future,  if  the  states 
perform  their  engagements,  and  the  Quarter-Master-General, 
and  Commissaries  do  their  duty.*  I  left  Mr.  Galvan  sitting  down 
to  dinner,  and  went  to  prepare  my  horses,  that  I  might  get  to 
head  quarters  before  the  day  was  spent.  Colonel  MacHenry, 
whom  I  have  before  mentioned,  took  upon  himself  to  conduct 
me.  We  kept  along  the  river,  which  was  on  our  left.  After 
riding  two  miles  we  came  in  sight  of  the  left  of  the  army.  It 
was  encamped  on  two  heights,  and  in  one  line,  in  an  extended 
but  very  good  position,  having  a  wood  in  the  rear,  and  in  the 
front,  the  river,  which  is  very  difficult  of  passage  every  where 
except  at  Totohaw  bridge.  But  the  situation  would  be  quite 
in  favour  of  an  army  defending  the  left  bank,  the  heights  on 
that  side  every  where  commanding  those  of  the  right.  Two 
miles  beyond  the  bridge  is  a  meeting-house  of  an  hexagonal 
form,  which  is  given  to  their  places  of  worship  by  the  Dutch 
Presbyterians,  who  are  very  numerous  in, the  Jerseys. 

I  was  pursuing  my  journey,  conversing  with  Mr.  MacHenry, 
when  I  was  apprised  by  a  considerable  noise,  that  I  could  not 
be  far  from  the  great  cataract,  called  Totohaw  fall.  I  was 


*  On  the  universal  stoppage  of  paper  money,  from  its  enormous 
depreciation,  the  worst  of  specie,  notwithstanding  the  abilities  and 
activity  of  Mr.  Morris,  the  financier,  occasioned  great  wants  in  the 
army,  and  a  total  indifference  on  the  part  of  the  contractors  ;  insomuch, 
that  in  the  end  of  1782,  the  army  was  in  danger  of  disbanding  from 
absolute  necessity.  It  was  on  this  critical  occasion  that  Colonel 
Wadsworth,  whose  merit  has  been  so  well  appreciated  by  the  author, 
stept  in,  took  the  contract  on  himself,  and  by  his  name  and  influence 
restored  affairs,  and  kept  the  army  together.  America  cannot  be  too 
grateful  to  this  gentleman. —  Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  61 

divided  between  my  impatience  to  view  this  curiosity,  and  that 
of  approaching  General  Washington;  but  Mr.  MacHenry 
informing  me  that  it  would  not  take  me  two  hundred  paces  out 
of  my  way  to  see  the  cataract,  I  determined  to  avail  myself  of 
the  remainder  of  a  fine  day,  and  I  had  not  in  fact  gone  a  stone's 
throw  before  I  had  the  astonishing  spectacle  before  me  a  large 
river,  which  precipitates  itself  from  a  height  of  seventy  feet, 
and  so  ingulphed  in  the  hollow  of  a  rock,  which  seems  to  swal 
low  it  up,  but  from  whence  it  escapes  by  turning  short  to  the 
right.  It  seems  to  me  impossible  to  give  an  idea  of  this  water 
fall,  but  by  a  drawing.  Let  us  however  attempt  the  picture, 
leaving  the  finishing  to  the  imagination :  she  is  the  rival  of 
nature,  and  sometimes  also  her  rival  and  interpreter.  Let  the 
reader  figure  to  himself,  then,  a  river  running  between  moun 
tains  covered  with  firs,  the  dark  green  of  which  is  in  contact 
with  the  colour  of  its  waters,  and  renders  its  course  more 
majestic;  let  him  represent  to  himself  an  immense  rock,  which 
would  totally  close  up  the  passage,  had  it  not  by  an  earthquake 
or  some  other  subterraneous  revolution,  been  rent  in  several 
pieces,  from  its  summit  to  its  base,  by  this  means  forming  long 
crevices  perfectly  vertical.  One  of  these  crevices,  the  depth 
of  which  is  unknown,  may  be  twenty-five  or  thirty  feet  wide. 
It  is  in  this  cavern  that  the  river  having  cleared  a  part  of  the 
rock,  precipitates  itself  with  violence  ;  but  as  this  rock  crosses 
its  whole  bed,  it  can  only  escape  by  that  extremity  of  the  two, 
which  offers  it  an  outlet.  There  a  fresh  obstacle  presents 
itself:  another  rock  opposes  its  flight,  and  it  is  obliged  to  form 
a  right  angle,  and  turn  short  to  the  left.  But  it  is  extraordinary 
that  after  this  dreadful  fall,  it  neither  froths,  nor  boils  up,  nor 
forms  whirlpools,  but  goes  off  quietly  by  its  channel,  and  gains, 
in  silence,  a  profound  valley,  where  it  pursues  its  course  to 
the  sea.  This  perfect  calm,  after  a  movement  so  rapid,  can 
only  proceed  from  the  enormous  depth  of  the  cavern,  into 
which  it  is  plunged.  I  did  not  examine  the  rock  with  aqua 
fortis  ;  but  as  there  seems  to  be  no  calcareous  stones  in  this 
country,  I  take  it  to  be  hard  rock,  and  of  the  nature  of  quartz : 
but  it  presents  a  peculiarity  worthy  of  attention,  which  is,  that 
its  whole  surface  is  hollowed  into  little  squares.  Was  it  in  a 
state  of  fusion  when  raised  from  the  bowels  of  the  earth,  and  it 
blocked  up  the  passage  of  the  river?  These  vertical  cre 
vices,  these  flaws  on  the  surface,  are  they  the  effects  of  its 
cooling  ?  These  are  questions  I  leave  to  the  discussion  of  the 
learned :  I  shall  only  observe,  that  there  is  no  volcanic  ap 
pearance  ;  nor  through  this  whole  country  are  there  the 
smallest  traces  of  a  volcano,  of  such  at  least  as  are  posterior  to 
the  last  epochas  of  nature. 
Though  Doctor  MacHenry  began  by  being  a  Doctor,  before 


«3  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

he  was  an  officer,  and  is  well  informed,  I  did  not  find  him  much 
versed  in  natural  history,  and  I  preferred  questioning  him  on 
the  subject  of  the  army  along  the  front  of  which  I  rode,  meet 
ing  perpetually  with  posts,  who  took  arms,  the  drum  beating, 
and  the  officers  saluting  with  the  espontoon.  All  these  posts 
were  not  for  the  safety  of  the  army;  many  of  them  were  sta 
tioned  to  guard  houses  and  barns,  which  served  as  magazines. 
At  length,  after  riding  two  miles  along  the  right  flank  of  the 
army,  and  after  passing  thick  woods  on  the  right,  I  found  my 
self  in  a  small  plain,  where  I  saw  a  handsome  farm ;  a  small 
camp  which  seemed  to  cover  it,  a  large  tent  extended  in  the 
court,  and  several  wagons  round  it,  convinced  me  that  this  was 
his  Excellency's  quarter;  for  it  is  thus  Mr.  Washington  is  call 
ed  in  the  army,  and  throughout  America.  M.  de  la  Fayette 
was  in  conversation  with  a  tall  man,  five  foot  nine  inches  high, 
(about  five  foot  ten  inches  and  a  half  English,)  of  a  noble  and 
mild  countenance.  It  was  the  general  himself.  I  was  soon 
off  horseback,  and  near  him.  The  compliments  were  short ; 
the  sentiments  with  which  I  was  animated,  and  the  good  wishes 
he  testified  for  me  were  not  equivocal.  He  conducted  me  to 
his  house,  where  I  found  the  company  still  at  table,  although 
the  dinner  had  been  long  over.  He  presented  me  to  the  Generals 
Knox,  Wayne,  Howe,  &c.  and  to  his  family,  then  composed  of 
Colonels  Hamilton  and  Tilgman,  his  secretaries  and  his  aids- 
de-camp,  and  of  Major  Gibbs,  commander  of  his  guards ;  for 
in  England  and  America,  the  aids-de-camp,  adjutants  and 
other  officers  attached  to  the  general,  form  what  is  called  his 
family.  A  fresh  dinner  was  prepared  for  me  and  mine ;  and 
the  present  was  prolonged  to  keep  me  company.  A  few  glasses 
of  claret  and  madeira  accelerated  the  acquaintances  I  had  to 
make,  and  I  soon  felt  myself  at  my  ease  near  the  greatest  and  the 
best  of  men.  The  goodness  and  benevolence  which  charac 
terise  him,  are  evident  from  every  thing  about  him ;  but  the 
confidence  he  gives  birth  to,  never  occasions  improper  familiari 
ty  ;  for  the  sentiment  he  inspires  has  the  same  origin  in  every 
individual,  a  profound  esteem  for  his  virtues,  and  a  high  opinion 
of  his  talents.*  About  nine  o'clock  the  general  officers  with- 

*  Rochefaucault  has  said,  "  That  no  man  is  a  hero  to  his  Valet  de 
Chambre."  Without  combatting  the  general  justice  of  the  remark, 
this  excellent  man  is  most  certainly  an  exception.  Those  who  are  the 
nearest  to  his  person  love  him  the  most,  but  this  is  never  separated  from 
a  marked  degree  of  respect  and  admiration.  This  is  not  only  the  uni 
versal  testimony,  but  I  had  myself  the  high  gratification  of  observing 
it.  Before  the  war,  there  was  not  a  gentleman  within  the  circle  of 
his  neighbourhood,  who,  having  important  concerns,  or  a  family  to 
leave  behind  him,  did  not  close  his  eyes  in  peace,  could  he  be  so  fortu- 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  <# 

drew  to  their  quarters,  which  were  all  at  a  considerable  dis 
tance  ;  but  as  the  general  wished  me  to  stay  in  his  own  house, 
I  remained  some  time  with  him,  after  which  he  conducted  me 
to  the  chamber  prepared  for  my  aids-de-camp  and  me.  This 
chamber  occupied  the  fourth  part  of  his  lodgings ;  he  apolo 
gized  to  me  for  the  little  room  he  had  in  his  disposal,  but 
always  with  a  noble  politeness,  which  was  neither  complimen 
tary  nor  troublesome. 

nate  as  to  get  Mr.  Washington  for  an  executor  :  an  unequivocal  proof 
of  his  integrity.     I  have  likewise  the  strongest  testimony  to  refute  those 
injurious  insinuations  which  have  been  propagated  by  envy,  ignorance, 
or  party  malevolence,  with  the  view  of  depreciating  his  talents.     I  had 
particular  business  to  transact  with  him  in  1782,  respecting  the  estates 
of  an  old  friend  to  whom  he  was  executor,  but  which  from  peculiar 
circumstances  had  been  totally  neglected  by  the  noble  heirs  in  Eng 
land,  from  the  year  1771,  indeed  I  may  say,  from  the  year  1767.     I 
found  his  Excellency  in  winter  quarters  at  Philadelphia ;  on  entering 
into  conversation  on  the  subject,  which  was  of  a  most  complicated  na 
ture,  the  General  modestly  apprized  me,  that  from  the  active  and  tur 
bulent  situation  in  which  he  had  long  been  placed,  never  having  been 
at  his  own  house  in  Virginia  since  the  year  1775,  but  one  night  on  his 
return  from  York-Town,  he  was  ignorant  of  his  own  affairs,  and  was 
consequently  afraid  he  could  afford  me  but  little  information  respecting 
those  in  question :  but  what  was  my  astonishment,  when,  after  this 
prelude,  he  entered  into  an  accurate  detail  of  every  thing  respecting 
them,  scarcely  omitting,  as  I  afterwards  found  upon  the  spot,  the  most 
minute  particular !     On  my  arrival  in  Virginia,  I  had  an  opportunity  of 
perusing,  among  the  papers,  many  of  his  letters  written  whilst  in  ,the 
active  management  of  the  affairs,  which  furnished  me  with  unquestion 
able  proofs  of  the  clearness  of  his  head,  the  honour  and  disinterested 
ness  of  his  heart,  and  the  uncommon  perspicuity  and  elegance  of  his 
style ;  so  as  to  convince  me  of  the  identity  of  the  pen  that  produced 
those   admirable   epistolary   performances,  which   did  him  so  much 
honour  during  the  war,  and  will  ever  mark  the  energy  of  his  mind,  and 
the  excellence  of  his4inderstanding.     I  have  dwelt  with  the  more  sa 
tisfaction  on  this  particular,  as  Envy,  unable  to  detract  from  their 
merit,  has  made  frequent  attempts  to  rob  his  fame  of  the  honour  of 
having  ever  produced  them  ;  and  what  relates  to  the  public  opinion 
concerning  himself  he  always  leaves  to  the  determination  of  others. 
This  heartfelt,  but  faithful  tribute  to  transcendent  virtue  and  abilities, 
is  the  effusion  of  a  mind  unaccustomed  to  flattery,  and  in  an  instance 
where  flattery  neither  has,  nor  can  have  any  object.     I  had  long  revered 
his  character  before  I  saw  him,  and  we  all  know  that  too  much  pre 
possession  is  generally  unfavourable  on  a  nearer  view  ;  but  to  know 
him,  establishes  and  heightens  the  most  favourable  ideas ;  and  I  saw, 
and  knew  this  truly  great  man,  only  to  root  in  my  mind  the  most  sincere 
attachment,  affection  and  veneration  for  his  person  and  character. — 
Trans. 


04  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-  AMERICA. 

At  nine  the  next  morning  they  informed  me  that  his  excel 
lency  was  come  down  into  the  parlour.  This  room  served  at 
once  as  audience  chamber  and  dining-room.  I  immediately 
went  to  wait  on  him,  and  found  breakfast  prepared.  Lord 
Stirling  had  come  to  breakfast  with  us.  He  is  one  of  the  old 
est  Major-Generals  in  the  army  ;  his  birth,  his  titles  and  pretty 
extensive  property  have  given  nim  more  importance  in  Ameri 
ca,  than  his  talents  could  ever  have  acquired  him.  The  title 
of  Lord,  which  was  refused  him  in  England,  is  not  here  contest 
ed  with  him  :  he  claimed  this  title  from  inheritance,  and  went 
to  Europe  to  support  his  pretensions,  but  without  success.  A 
part  of  his  estate  has  been  dissipated  by  the  war,  and  by  his 
taste  for  expense  ;  he  is  accused  of  liking  the  table  and  the 
bottle,  full  as  much  as  becomes  a  Lord,  but  more  than  becomes 
a  General.  He  is  brave,  but  without  capacity,  and  has  not 
been  fortunate  in  the  different  commands  with  which  he  has 
been  entrusted.  He  was  made  prisoner  at  the  affair  of  Long- 
Island.  In  June,  1777,  he  got  into  a  scrape  at  Elizabethtown, 
whilst  General  Washington  made  head  against  20,000  English 
on  the  heights  of  Middlebrook  ;  he  there  lost  two  or  three 
hundred  men,  and  three  pieces  of  cannon  :  at  Brandywine  he 
commanded  the  right  of  the  army,  or  rather  the  body  of  troops- 
defeated  by  Cornwallis  ;  but  on  all  these  occasions  he  display 
ed  great  personal  courage  and  firmness.  I  conversed  a  long 
time  with  him,  and  found  him  to  be  a  sensible  manj  not  ill  in 
formed  of  the  affairs  of  his  country.  He  is  old  and  rather  dull  ; 
but  with  all  this,  he  will  continue  to  serve,  because  the  em- 
plovment  though  not  lucrative,  helps  to  repair  a  little  the  dis- 
orcrer  in  his  affairs  ;  and  not  having  quitted  the  service  since 
the  beginning  of  the  war,  he  has  at  least  zeal  and  seniority  in 
his  favour  ;  thus  he  will  retain  the  command  of  the  first  line,  to 
which  his  rank  entitles  him  ;  but  care  will  be  taken  not  to  em 
ploy  him  on  particular  expeditions.* 


*  Lord  Stirling  died  before  the  end  of  the  war. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


AMERICAN  AKMY GEN.  KNOX GEN.  WASHINGTON MOIUUSTOW X 

MIDULEBROOK PRINCETON. 

WHILST  we  were  at  breakfast,  horses  were  brought,  and 
General  Washington  gave  orders  for  the  army  to  get  under 
arms  at  the  head  of  the  camp.  The  weather  was  very  bad, 
and  it  had  already  began  raining ;  we  waited  half  an  hour  ; 
but  the  General  seeing  that  it  was  more  likely  to  increase  than 
to  diminish,  determined  to  get  on  horseback.  Two  horses 
were  brought  him,  which  were  a  present  from  the  state  of  Vir 
ginia  ;  he  mounted  one  himself,  and  gave  me  the  other.  Mr. 
Lynch  and  Mr.  de  Montesquieu,  had  each  of  them,  also,  a  very 
handsome  blood  horse,  such  as  we  could  not  find  at  Newport 
for  any  money.  We  repaired  to  the  artillery  camp,  where 
General  Knox  received  us  :  the  artillery  was  numerous,  and 
the  gunners,  in  very  fine  order,  were  formed  in  parade,  in  the 
foreign  manner,  that  is,  each  gunner  at  his  battery,  and  ready 
to  fire.  The  General  was  so  good  as  to  apologize  to  me  for 
the  cannon  not  firing  to  salute  me  ;  he  said,  that  having  put 
all  the  troops  on  the  other  side  of  the  river  in  motion,  and  ap- 

Erized  them  that  he  might  himself  march  along  the  right  bank, 
e  was  afraid  of  giving  the  alarm,  and  of  deceiving  the  detach 
ments  that  were  out.  We  gained  at  length,  the  right  of  the 
army,  where  we  saw  the  Pennsylvania  line  ;  it  was  composed 
of  two  brigades,  each  forming  three  battalions,  without  reckon 
ing  the  light  infantry,  which  were  detached  with  the  Marquis 
de  la  Fayette.  General  Wayne,  who  commanded  it,  was  on 
horseback,  as  well  as  the  Brigadiers  and  Colonels.  They  were 
all  well  mounted  :  the  officers  also  had  a  very  military  air;  they 
were  well  ranged,  and  saluted  very  gracefully.  Each  brigade 
had  a  band  of  music  ;  the  march  they  were  then  playing  was 
the  Huron.  I  knew  that  this  line,  though  in  want  of  many 
things  was  the  best  clothed  in  the  army ;  so  that  his  excellen 
cy  asking  me  whether  I  would  proceed,  and  see  the  whole 
army,  or  go  by  the  shortest  road  to  the  camp  of  the  Marquis, 
I  accepted  the  latter  proposal.  The  troops  ought  to  thank  me 
for  it,  for  the  rain  was  falling  with  redoubled  force ;  they  were 
dismissed,  therefore,  and  we  arrived  heartily  wet  at  the  Mar 
quis  de  la  Fayette's  quarters,  where  I  wanned  myself  with  great 

9 


66  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

pleasure,  partaking,  from  time  to  time,  of  a  large  bowl  of  grog, 
which  is  stationary  on  his  table,  and  is  presented  to  every  offi 
cer  who  enters.  The  rain  appearing  to  cease,  or  inclined  to 
cease  for  a  moment,  we  availed  ourselves  of  the  opportunity  to 
follow  his  excellency  to  the  camp  of  the  Marquis :  we  found 
all  his  troops  in  order  of  battle  on  the  heights  to  the  left,  and 
himself  at  their  head  ;  expressing  by  his  air  and  countenance, 
that  he  was  happier  in  receiving  me  there,  than  at  his  estate  in 
Auvergne.  The  confidence  and  attachment  of  the  troops,  are 
for  him  invaluable  possessions,  well  acquired  riches,  of  which 
no  body  can  deprive  him ;  but  what,  in  my  opinion,  is  still 
more  flattering  for  a  young  man  of  his  age,  is  the  influence 
and  consideration  he  has  acquired  among  the  political,  as  well 
as  the  military  order :  I  do  not  fear  contradiction  when  I  say, 
that  private  letters  from  him  have  frequently  produced  more 
effect  on  some  states  than  the  strongest  exhortations  of  the 
Congress.  On  seeing  him,  one  is  at  a  loss  which  most  to  ad 
mire,  that  so  young  a  man  as  he  should  have  given  such  emi 
nent  proofs  of  talents,  or  that  a  man  so  tried,  should  give  hopes 
of  so  long  a  career  of  glory.  Fortunate  his  country,  if  she 
knows  how  to  avail  herself  of  them  ;  more  fortunate  still  should 
she  stand  in  no  need  of  calling  them  into  exertion  ! 

I  distinguished  with  pleasure,  among  the  colonels,  who  were 
extremely  well  mounted,  and  who  saluted  with  great  grace, 
M.  de  Gimat,  a  French  officer,  over  whom  I  claim  the  rights  of 
a  sort  of  military  paternity,  having  brought  him  up  in  my  regi 
ment  from  his  earliest  youth.*  This  whole  vanguard  consisted 
of  six  battalions,  forming  two  brigades  ;  but  there  was  only 
one  piquet  of  dragoons  or  light  cavalry,  the  remainder  having 
marched  to  the  southward  with  Colonel  Lee.  These  dragoons 
are  perfectly  well  mounted,  and  do  not  fear  meeting  the  Eng 
lish  dragoons,  over  whom  they  have  gained  several  advantages  ;f 
but  they  have  never  been  numerous  enough  to  form  a  solid 
and  permanent  body.  The  piquet  that  was  kept  with  the  ar- 

*  M.  de  Gimat  made  the  following  campaign  at  the  head  of  a  bat 
talion  of  light  infantry,  always  under  the  command  of  M.  de  la  Fay- 
ctte.  At  the  siege  of  York,  he  attacked  and  carried  jointly  with  Colo 
nel  Hamilton,  the  enemies'  redoubt  on  their  left.  This  attack  was 
made  at  the  same  time  with  that  of  the  Baron  de  Viomenil,  on  the 
right  redoubt,  and  with  the  same  success.  Mr.  Gimat  was  wounded 
in  the  foot  :  on  his  return  to  Europe,  he  was  made  Colonel  of  the  re 
giment  of  Martinico. 

t  The  heroic  Tarleton  has  experienced  that  there  is  some  difference 
between  these  dragoons  and  a  surprised  party  of  ill-armed  infantry 
and  peasants.  This  gentleman's  forte  was  in  the  latter  species  of  war ; 
a  forced  march,  a  surprize,  and  a  bloody  gazette,  are  the  records  of 
Iris  glory.— Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  07 

my  served  then  as  an  escort  to  the  Provost  Marshal,  and  per 
formed  the  functions  of  the  Marechaussee,  until  the  establish 
ment  of  a  regular  one,  which  was  intended. 

The  rain  spared  us  no  more  at  the  camp  of  the  Marquis, 
than  at  that  of  the  main  army ;  so  that  our  review  being  finish 
ed,  I  saw  with  pleasure  General  Washington  set  off  in  a  gal 
lop  to  regain  his  quarters.     We  reached  them  as  soon  as  the 
badness  of  the  roads  would  permit  us.     At  our  return  we  found 
a  good  dinner  ready,  and  about  twenty  guests,  among  whom 
were  Generals  Howe  and  Sinclair.     The  repast  was  in  the 
English  fashion,  consisting  of  eight  or  ten   large  dishes   of 
butcher's  meat,  and  poultry,  with  vegetables  of  several  sorts, 
followed  by  a  second  course  of  pastry,  comprized  under  the 
two  denominations  of  pies  and  puddings.     After  this  the  cloth 
was  taken  off,  and  apples  and   a  great  quantity  of  nuts  were 
served,  which  General  Washington  usually  continues  eating 
for  two  hours,  toasting  and  conversing  all  the  time.     These 
nuts  are  small  and  dry,  and  have  so  hard  a  shell,  (hickory  nuts) 
that  they  can  only  be  broken  by  the  hammer  ;  they  are  served 
half  open,  and  the  company  are  never  done  picking  and  eating 
them.     The  conversation  was  calm  and  agreeable  ;  his  Excel 
lency  was  pleased  to  enter  with  me  into  the  particulars  of  some 
of  the  principal  operations  of  the  war,  but  always  with  a  mo 
desty  and   conciseness,  which  proved  that  it  was  from  pure 
complaisance  he  mentioned  it.     About  half  past  seven  we 
rose  from  table,  and  immediately  the  servants  came  to  shorten 
it,  and  convert  it  into  a  round  one  ;  for  at  dinner  it  was  placed 
diagonally  to  give  more  room.     I  was  surprised  at  this  manoeu 
vre,  and  asked  the  reason  of  it ;  I  was  told  they  were  going  to 
lay  the  cloth  for  supper.     In  half  an  hour  I  retired  to  my  cham 
ber,  fearing  lest  the  General  might  have  business,  and  that  he 
remained  in  company  only  on  my  account ;  but  at  the  end  of 
another  half  hour,  I  was  informed  that  his  Excellency  expected 
me  at  supper.     I    returned   to   the   dining-room,   protesting 
against  this  supper ;  but  the  General  told  me  he  was  accus 
tomed  to  take  something  in  the  evening ;  that  if  I  would  be 
seated,  I  should  only  eat  some  fruit,  and  assist  in  the  conver 
sation.     I   desired   nothing   better,   for   there  were   then  no 
strangers,   and  nobody  remained   but  the   General's  family. 
The  supper  was  composed  of  three  or  four  light  dishes,  some 
fruit,  and  above  all,  a  great  abundance  of  nuts,  which  were  as 
well  received  in  the  evening  as  at  dinner.     The  cloth  being 
soon  removed,  a  few  bottles  of  good  claret  and  madeira  were 
placed  on  the  table.*   Every  sensible  man  will  be  of  my  opinion, 


*  On  my  return  from  the  southward  in  1782,  I  spent  a  day  or  two 
at  the  American  camp  atVerplank's  Point  on  the  North  River,  and  had 


tfc  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

that  being  a  French  officer,  under  the  orders  of  General 
Washington,  and  what  is  more,  a  good  whig,  I  could  not  re 
fuse  a  glass  of  wine  offered  me  by  him ;  but,  I  confess,  that  I 
had  little  merit  in  this  complaisance,  and  that,  less  accustom 
ed  to  drink  than  any  body,  I  accommodate  myself  very  well 
to  the  English  mode  of  toasting :  you  have  very  small  glasses, 
you  pour  out  yourself  the  quantity  of  wine  you  choose,  with 
out  being  pressed  to  take  more,  and  the  toast  is  only  a  sort  of 
check  in  the  conversation,  to  remind  each  individual  that  he 
forms  part  of  the  company,  and  that  the  whole  form  only  one 
society.  I  observed  that  there  was  more  solemnity  in  the 
toasts  at  dinner :  there  were  several  ceremonious  ones ;  the 
others  were  suggested  by  the  General,  and  given  out  by  his 
aids-de-camp,  who  performed  the  honours  of  the  table  at  din 
ner;  for  one  of  them  is  every  day  seated  at  the  bottom  of  the 
table,  near  the  General,  to  serve  the  company,  and  distribute 
the  bottles.  The  toasts  in  the  evening  were  given  by  Colonel 
Hamilton,  without  order  or  ceremony.  After  supper  the 
guests  are  generally  desired  to  give  a  sentiment ;  that  is  to  say, 
a  lady  to  whom  they  are  attached  by  some  sentiment,  either  of 


the  honour  of  dining  with  General  Washington.  I  had  suffered  severely 
from  an  ague,  which  I  could  not  get  quit  of,  though  I  had  taken  the 
exercise  of  a  hard  trotting  horse,  and  got  thus  far  to  the  northward  in 
the  month  of  October.  The  general  observing  it,  told  me  he  was 
sure  I  had  not  met  with  a  good  glass  of  wine  for  some  time,  an  article 
then  very  rare,  but  that  my  disorder  must  be  frightened  away  ;  he  made 
me  drink  three  or  four  of  his  silver  camp  cups  of  excellent  madeira  at 
noon,  and  recommended  to  me  to  take  a  generous  glass  of  claret  after 
dinner,  a  prescription  by  no  means  repugnant  to  my  feelings,  and  which 
1  most  religiously  followed.  I  mounted  my  horse  next  morning,  and 
continued  my  journey  to  Massachusetts,  without  ever  experiencing  the 
slightest  return  of  my  disorder.  The  American  camp  here,  presented 
the  most  beautiful  and  picturesque  appearance  :  it  extended  along  the 
plain,  on  the  neck  of  land  formed  by  the  winding  of  the  Hudson,  and 
had  a  view  of  this  river  to  the  south ;  behind  it,  the  lofty  mountains, 
covered  with  wood,  formed  the  most  sublime  back-ground  that  painting 
can  express.  In  the  front  of  the  tents  was  a  regular  continued  porti 
co,  formed  by  the  boughs  of  trees  in  verdure,  decorated  with  much 
taste  and  fancy ;  and  each  officer's  tent  was  distinguished  by  superior 
ornaments.  Opposite  the  camp,  and  on  distinct  eminences,  stood  the 
tents  of  some  of  the  general  officers,  over  which  towered,  predominant, 
that  of  General  Washington.  I  had  seen  all  the  camps  in  England, 
from  many  of  which,  drawings  and  engravings  have  been  taken ;  but 
this  was  truly  a  subject  worthy  the  pencil  of  the  first  artist.  The 
French  camp  during  their  stay  at  Baltimore,  was  decorated  in  the  same 
style.  At  the  camp  at  Verplank's,  we  distinctly  heard  the  morning1 
and  evening  gun  of  the  British  at  Kingsbridge. — Trans, 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH  AMERICA.        (ft 

love,  or  friendship,  or  perhaps  from  preference  only.*  This 
supper,  or  conversation,  commonly  lasted  from  nine  to  eleven, 
always  free,  and  always  agreeable. 

The  weather  was  so  bad  on  the  25th,  that  it  was  impossible 
for  me  to  stir,  even  to  wait  on  the  Generals,  to  whom  M.  de  la 
Fayette  was  to  conduct  me.  I  easily  consoled  myself  for  this, 
finding  it  a  great  luxury  to  pass  a  whole  day  with  General  Wash 
ington,  as  if  he  were  at  his  house  in  the  country,  and  had 
nothing  to  do.  The  Generals  Glover,  Huntington,  and  some 
others,  dined  with  us,  and  the  Colonels  Stewart  and  Butler  two 
officers  distinguished  in  the  army.  The  intelligence  received 
this  day  occasioned  the  proposed  attack  on  Staten-Island  to  be 
laid  aside.  The  foraging  party  under  General  Starke  had  met 
with  the  most  complete  success ;  the  enemy  not  having  thought 
proper  to  disturb  them,  so  that  they  had  not  stripped  the  posts 
in  the  quarter  where  it  was  intended  to  attack  them  :  besides, 
that  this  expedition  could  only  have  been  a  coup  de  main,  ren 
dered  very  difficult  by  the  badness  of  the  roads  from  the  ex 
cessive  rains.  It  was  determined  therefore  that  the  army 
should  march  the  next  day  to  winter  quarters,  and  that  I  should 
continue  my  route  to  Philadelphia. 

The  weather  being  fair,  on  the  26th,  I  got  on  horseback, 
after  breakfasting  with  the  general.  He  was  so  attentive  as 
to  give  me  the  horse  he  rode  on,  the  day  of  my  arrival,  which 
I  had  greatly  commended  :  I  found  him  as  good  as  he  is  hand 
some  ;  but  above  all,  perfectly  well  broke,  and  well  trained, 
having  a  good  mouth,  easy  in  hand,  and  stopping  short  in  a 
gallop  without  bearing  the  bit.  I  mention  these  minute  par 
ticulars,  because  it  is  the  general  himself  who  breaks  all  his 
own  horses ;  and  he  is  a  very  excellent  and  bold  horseman, 
leaping  the  highest  fences,  and  going  extremely  quick,  without 
standing  upon  his  stirrups,  bearing  on  the  bridle,  or  letting  his 
horse  run  wild  ;  circumstances  which  our  young  men  look  upon 
as  so  essential  a  part  of  English  horsemanship,  that  they  would 
rather  break  a  leg  or  an  arm  than  renounce  them. 

My  first  visit  was  to  General  Wayne,  where  Mr.  de  la  Fayette 
was  waiting  to  conduct  me  to  the  other  general  officers  of  the 
line.  We  were  received  by  General  Huntington,  who  appear 
ed  rather  young  for  the  rank  of  Brigadier-General,  which  he 
has  held  two  years  :  his  carriage  is  cold  and  reserved,  but  one 
is  not  long  in  perceiving  him  to  be  a  man  of  sense  and  inform 
ation  ;  by  General  Glover,  about  five  and  forty,  a  little  man, 


*  The  English  reader  will  see  that  the  Author  makes  a  small  mis 
take  here;  it  being  the  custom  in  America,  as  in  England,  to  give  a 
?ady,  or  a  sentiment,  or  both. —  Trans. 


70  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AM  ERIC  A. 

but  active  and  a  good  soldier ;  by  General  Howe,  who  is  one 
of  the  oldest  Major-Generals,  and  who  enjoys  the  consideration 
due  to  his  rank,  though,  from  unfavourable  circumstances,  he 
has  not  been  fortunate  in  war,  particularly  in  Georgia,  where 
he  commanded  with  a  very  small  force,  at  the  time  General 
Provost  took  possession  of  it:  he  is  fond  of  music,  the  arts, 
and  pleasure,  and  has  a  cultivated  mind.  I  remained  a  con 
siderable  time  with  him,  and  saw  a  very  curious  lusus  nature, 
but  as  hideous  as  possible.  It  was  a  young  man  of  a  Dutch 
family,  whose  head  was  become  so  enormous,  that  it  took  the 
whole  nourishment  from  his  body;  and  his  hands  and  arms 
were  so  weak  that  he  was  unable  to  make  use  of  them.  He 
lies  constantly  in  bed,  with  his  monstrous  head  supported  by  a 
pillow ;  and  as  he  has  long  been  accustomed  to  lie  on  his  right 
side,  his  right  arm  is  in  a  state  of  atrophy  :  he  is  not  quite  an 
ideot,  but  he  could  never  learn  any  thing,  and  has  no  more 
reason  than  a  child  of  five  or  six  years  old,  though  he  is  seven 
and  twenty.  This  extraordinary  derangement  of  the  animal 
economy  proceeds  from  a  dropsy,  with  which  he  was  attacked 
in  his  infancy,  and  which  displaced  the  bones  that  form  the 
cranium.  We  know  that  these  bones  are  joined  together  by 
sutures,  which  are  soft  in  the  first  period  of  life,  and  harden  and 
ossify  with  age.  Such  an  exuberance,  so  great  an  afflux  of 
humour  in  that,  which  of  all  the  viscera  seems  to  require  the 
most  exact  proportion,  as  well  in  what  relates  to  the  life  as  to 
the  understanding  of  man,  afford  stronger  proof  of  the  necessity 
of  an  equilibrium  between  the  solids  and  the  fluids,  than  the 
existence  of  the  final  causes. 

General  Knox,  whom  we  had  met,  and  who  accompanied  us, 
brought  us  back  to  head-quarters,  through  a  wood,  as  the 
shortest  way,  and  to  fall  into  a  road  leading  to  his  house,  where 
we  wished  to  pay  our  compliments  to  Mrs.  Knox.  We  found 
her  settled  on  a  little  farm,  where  she  had  passed  part  of  the 
campaign  ;  for  she  never  quits  her  husband.  A  child  of  six 
months,  and  a  little  girl  of  three  years  old,  formed  a  real  family 
for  the  General.  As  for  himself,  .he  is  between  thirty  and 
forty,  very  fat,  but  very  active,  and  of  a  gay  and  amiable 
character.  Previous  to  the  war  he  was  a  bookseller  at  Boston, 
and  used  to  amuse  himself  in  reading  military  books  in  his 
shop.  Such  was  the  origin  and  the  first  knowledge  he  ac 
quired  of  the  art  of  war,  and  of  the  taste  he  has  had  ever  since 
for  the  profession  of  arms.  From  the  very  first  campaign,  he 
was  entrusted  with  the  command  of  the  artillery,  and  it  has 
turned  out  that  it  could  not  have  been  placed  in  better  hands. 
It  was  he  whom  M.  du  Coudray  endeavoured  to  supplant,  and 
who  had  no  difficulty  in  removing  him.  It  was  fortunate  for 
M.  du  Coudray,  perhaps,  that  he  was  drowned  in  the  Schuyl- 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  71 

kill,  rather  than  to  be  swallowed  up  in  the  intrigues  he  was 
engaged  in,  and  which  might  have  been  productive  of  much 
mischief.* 

On  our  return  to  head  quarters,  we  found  several  General 
Officers  and  Colonels,  with  whom  he  dined.  I  had  an  oppor 
tunity  of  conversing  more  particularly  with  General  Wayne  ; 
he  has  served  more  than  any  officer  of  the  American  army,  and 
his  services  have  been  more  distinguished, f  though  he  is  yet 
but  young.  He  is  sensible,  and  his  conversation  is  agreeable 
and  animated.  The  affair  of  Stoney-Point  has  gained  him 

*  General  Knox  who  retained  until  the  peace  the  same  situation  in 
the  American  army,  commanded  their  artillery  at  the  seige  of  York. 
One  cannot  too  much  admire  the  intelligence  and  activity  with  which 
he  collected  from  all  quarters,  transported,  disembarked  and  conveyed 
to  the  batteries  the  train  destined  for  the  seige,  and  which  consisted 
of  more  than  thirty  pieces  of  cannon  and  mortars  of  a  large  bore : 
this  artillery  was  always  extremely  well  served,  General  Knox  never 
failing  to  direct  it,  and  frequently  taking  the  trouble  himself  of  point 
ing  the  mortars.  He  scarcely  ever  quitted  the  batteries  ;  and,  when 
the  town  surrendered,  he  stood  in  need  of  the  same  activity  and  the 
same  resources  to  remove  and  transport  the  enemy's  artillery,  which 
consisted  of  upwards  of  two  hundred  boucJies  a  feu,  with  all  the  am 
munition  belonging  to  them.  The  rank  of  Major-General  was  the 
recompense  of  his  services. 

It  may  be  observed,  that  if  on  this  occasion  the  English  were  asto 
nished  at  the  justness  of  the  firing,  and  terrible  execution  of  the  French 
artillery,  we  were  not  less  so  at  the  extraordinary  progress  of  the  Ame 
rican  artillery,  as  well  as  the  capacity  arid  knowledge  of  a  great  num 
ber  of  the  officers  employed  in  it. 

As  for  general  Knox,  to  praise  his  military  talents  only,  would  be  to 
deprive  him  of  half  of  the  eulogium  which  he  merits  :  A  man  of  un 
derstanding,  a  well  formed  man,  gay,  sincere,  and  honest ;  it  is  impos 
sible  to  know  without  esteeming  him,  or  to  see  without  loving  him. 
In  the  text,  it  is  said  that  he  was  a  bookseller  at  Boston  before  the  war ; 
this  is  not  perfectly  the  truth.  He  carried  on  trade  in  various  articles, 
and  according  to  the  American  custom,  he  sold  them  wholesale  and 
retail.  Books,  but  particularly  French  books,  made  part  of  this  com 
merce,  but  he  employed  himself  more  in  reading  than  selling  them. 
Before  the  revolution  he  was  one  of  the  principal  citizens  of  Boston  ; 
at  present,  he  belongs  to  the  whole  world  by  his  reputation  and  his 
success.  Thus  have  the  English,  contrary  to  their  intention,  added  to 
the  ornament  of  the  human  species,  by  awakening  talents  and  virtues 
where  they  thought  to  find  nothing  but  ignorance  and  weakness. 

t  This  might  in  some  respect  be  true  at  the  time  the  Marquis 
speaks  of,  but  let  the  southern  campaigns  be  attended  to,  and  justice 
will  be  done  to  the  active  zeal,  the  wonderful  exertions,  the  unabating; 
courage  of  that  great  officer  General  Greene ;  other  exceptions  might 
be  made,  but  this  stands  conspicuous. — Trans. 


72  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

much  honour  in  the  army ;  however,  he  is  only  a  Brigadier- 
General  !  This  arises  from  the  nomination  to  the  superior 
ranks  being  vested  in  the  states  to  whom  the  troops  belong^ 
and  that  the  state  of  Pennsylvania  has  not  thought  proper  to 
make  any  promotion,  apparently  from  principles  of  economy. 
The  remainder  of  the  day  I  dedicated  to  the  enjoyment  of 
Genera,!  Washington's  company,  whom  I  was  to  quit  the  next 
day.  He  was  so  good  as  to  point  out  to  me  himself  my  jour 
ney,  to  send  on  before  to  prepare  me  lodgings,  and  to  give  me 
a  Colonel  to  conduct  me  as  far  as  Trenton.  The  next  morning- 
all  the  General's  baggage  was  packed  up,  which  did  not 
hinder  us  from  breakfasting,  before  we  parted;  he  for  his  winter 
quarters,  and  I  for  my  journey  to  Philadelphia. 

Here  would  be  the  proper  place  to  give  the  portrait  of  Ge 
neral  Washington :  but  what  can  my  testimony  add  to  the  idea 
already  formed  of  him  9  The  continent  of  North- America, 
from  Boston  to  Charleston,  is  a  great  volume,  every  page  of 
which  presents  his  eulogium.  I  know,  that  having  had  the 
opportunity  of  a  near  inspection,  and  of  closely  observing 
him,  some  more  particular  details  may  be  expected  from  me ; 
but  the  strongest  characteristic  of  this  respectable  man  is  the 
perfect  union  which  reigns  between  the  physical  and  moral 
qualities  which  compose  the  individual ;  one  alone  will  enable 
you  to  judge  of  all  the  rest.  If  you  are  presented  with  medals 
of  Csesar,  of  Trajan,  or  Alexander,  on  examining  their  fea 
tures,  you  will  still  be  led  to  ask  what  was  their  stature,  and 
the  form  of  their  persons ;  but  if  you  discover,  in  a  heap  of 
ruins,  the  head  or  the  limb  of  an  antique  Apollo,  be  not  curi 
ous  about  the  other  parts,  but  rest  assured  that  they  all  were 
conformable  to  those  of  a  god.  Let  not  this  comparison  be 
attributed  to  enthusiasm !  It  is  not  my  intention  to  exagge 
rate,  I  wish  only  to  express  the  impression  General  Washing 
ton  has  left  on  my  mind ;  the  idea  of  a  perfect  whole,  that 
cannot  be  the  produce  of  enthusiasm,  which  rather  would  re 
ject  it,  since  the  effect  of  proportion  is  to  diminish  the  idea  of 
greatness.  Brave  without  temerity,  laborious  without  ambition, 
generous  without  prodigality,  noble  without  pride,  virtuous 
without  severity ;  he  seems  always  to  have  confined  himself 
within  those  limits,  where  the  virtues,  by  clothing  themselves  in 
more  lively,  but  more  changeable  and  doubtful  colours,  may  be 
mistaken  for  faults.  This  is  the  seventh  year  that  he  has  com 
manded  the  army,  and  that  he  has  obeyed  the  Congress ;  more 
need  not  be  said,  especially  in  America,  where  they  know  how  to 
appreciate  all  the  merit  contained  in  this  simple  fact.  Let  it 
be  repeated  that  Conde  was  intrepid,  Turenne  prudent,  Eugene 
adroit,  Catinat  disinterested.  It  is  not  thus  that  Washington 
will  be  characterized.  It  will  be  said  of  him,  AT  THE  END  ov 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH  AMERICA.  73 

A  LONG*CIVIL  WAR,  HE  HAD  NOTHING  WITH  WHICH  HE  COULD  RE 
PROACH  HIMSELF.     If  any  thing  can  be  more  marvellous  than 
such  a  character,  it  is  the  unanimity  of  the  public  suffrages  in 
his  favour.     Soldier,  magistrate,  people,  all  love  and  admire 
him;  all  speak  of  him  in  terms  of  tenderness  and  veneration. 
Does  there  then  exist  a  virtue  capable  of  restraining  the  injus 
tice  of  mankind  ;  or  are  glory  and  happiness  too  recently  esta 
blished  in  America,  for  envy  to  have  deigned  to  pass  the  seas  ? 
In  speaking  of  this  perfect  whole  of  which  General  Wash 
ington    furnishes   the   idea,    I  have    not   excluded  exterior 
form.     His  stature  is  noble  and  lofty,  he  is  well  made,  and  ex 
actly  proportioned  ;  his  physiognomy  mild  and  agreeable,  but 
such  as  to  render  it  impossible  to  speak  particularly  of  any  of 
his  features,  so  that  in  quitting  him,  you  have  only  the  recol 
lection  of  a  fine  face.     He  has  neither  a  grave  nor  a  familiar 
air,  his  brow  is  sometimes  marked  with  thought,  but  never  with 
inquietude  ;  in  inspiring  respect,  he  inspires  confidence,  and 
his  smile  is  always  the  smile  of  benevolence-.* 

But  above  all,  it  is  in  the  midst  of  his  general  officers,  that 
it  is  interesting  to  behold  him.  General  in  a  republic,  he  has 
not  the  imposing  stateliness  of  a  Marechal  de  France  who  gives 
the  order ;  a  hero  in  a  republic,  he  excites  another  sort  of  re 
spect,  which  seems  to  spring  from  the  sole  idea,  that  the  safety 
of  each  individual  is  attached  to  his  person.  As  for  the  rest, 
I  must  observe  on  this  occasion,  that  the  general  officers  of  the 
American  army  have  a  very  military  and  a  very  becoming  car 
riage  ;  that  even  all  the  officers,  whose  characters  were  brought 
into  public  view,  unite  much  politeness  to  a  great  deal  of  ca 
pacity  ;  that  the  head-quarters  of  this  army,  in  short,  neither 
present  the  image  of  want,  nor  inexperience.  When  one  sees 
the  battalion  of  the  general's  guards  encamped  within  the  pre 
cincts  of  his  house ;  nine  wagons,  destined  to  carry  his  bag 
gage,  ranged  in  his  court ;  a  great  number  of  grooms  taking 
care  of  very  fine  horses  belonging  to  the  general  officers  and 
their  aids-de-camp ;  when  one  observes  the  perfect  order  that 
reigns  within  these  precincts,  where  the  guards  are  exactly 

*  It  is  impossible  for  any  man  who  has  had  the  happiness  to  ap 
proach  the  General,  not  to  admire  the  accuracy  of  this  description, 
and  the  justness  and  happiness  with  which  it  is  developed,  or  to  read 
it  without  the  strongest  emotion.  It  is  here  above  all,  the  Translator 
must  apologize  for  his  author  ;  it  is  not  possible  to  do  justice  to  the 
original,  to  feel  all  its  elegance  it  must  be  read  in  the  language  in  which 
it  was  written.  Posterity,  future  historians,  will  be  grateful  to  the 
Marquis  de  Chastellux  for  this  exquisite  portrait ;  every  feature,  and 
every  tint  of  which  will  stand  the  test  of  the  severest  scrutiny,  and  bft 
handed  down  to  distant  ages  in  never  fading  colours. — Trans. 

10 


74  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

stationed,  and  where  the  drums  beat  an  alarm,  and  a  particu 
lar  retreat,  one  is  tempted  to  apply  to  the  Americans  what 
Pyrrhus  said  of  the  Romans  :  Truly  these  people  have  nothing 
barbarous  in  their  discipline ! 

The  reader  will  perceive  that  it  is  difficult  for  me  to  quit 
General  Washington  :  let  us  take  our  resolution  briskly  then, 
and  suppose  ourselves  on  the  road.  Behold  me  travelling  with 
Colonel  Moyland,  whom  his  excellency  had  given  me,  in  spite 
of  myself,  as  a  companion,  and  whom  I  should  have  been  glad 
to  have  seen  at  a  distance,  for  one  cannot  be  too  much  at  one's 
ease  in  travelling.  In  sucit  situations,  however,  we  must  do 
the  best  we  can.  I  began  to  question  him,  he  to  answer  me, 
and  the  conversation  gradually  becoming  more  interesting,  I 
found  I  had  to  do  with  a  very  gallant  and  intelligent  man,  who 
had  lived  long  in  Europe,  and  who  has  travelled  through  the 
greatest  part  of  America.  I  found  him  perfectly  polite  ;  for 
his  politeness  was  not  troublesome,  arid  I  soon  conceived  a 
great  friendship  for  him.  Mr.  Moyland  is  an  Irish  catholic; 
one  of  his  brothers  is  catholic  bishop  of  Cork,  he  has  four 
others,  two  of  whom  are  merchants,  one  at  Cadiz,  the  other  at 
L'Orient ;  the  third  is  in  Ireland  with  his  family  ;  and  the  fourth 
is  intended  for  the  priesthood.*  As  for  himself,  he  came  to 
settle  in  America  some  years  ago,  where  he  was  at  first  engaged 
in  commerce;  he  then  served  in  the  army  as  aid-de-camp  to 
the  general,  and  has  merited  the  command  of  the  light  cavalry. 
During  the  war  he  married  the  daughter  of  a  rich  merchant  in 

*  I  was  acquainted  with  four  brothers  of  this  family  ;  they  were  all 
amiable,  sensible  and  lively  men,  and  remarkably  active  and  useful  in 
the  revolution.  The  colonel,  in  the  military  line  ;  another  brother 
whom  I  suppose  to  have  been  the  merchant  at  Cadiz,  was  afterwards 
in  America,  and  clothier  general  to  the  army  ;  another  is  a  lawyer  at 
Philadelphia  ;  and  Mr.  Moyland,  who  is  lately  dead  at  L'Orient,  was 
singularly  useful  in  the  year  1777,  by  managing  a  treaty  between  the 
American  Commissioners  and  the  Farmers  General  of  France,  for  an 
annual  supply  of  tobacco  from  America,  which  he  concluded  during 
Lord  Stormmt's  residence  at  the  Court  of  France,  and  many  months 
previous  to  the  open  rupture  with  that  Court.  I  speak  of  this  with 
personal  knowledge  of  the  fact,  nor  was  it  so  secret  as  to  have  esca 
ped  the  English  Ambassador,  or  the  vigilant  Mr.  Forth.  There  could 
not  be  a  more  direct  attack  on  England  and  English  claims,  than  this 
transaction,  which  must  have  had  the  sanction  of  the  French  Govern 
ment,  yet  England  was  lulled  to  sleep  by  her  Ministers,  or  rather 
was  so  infatuated  as  to  shut  her  ears  against  the  most  interesting 
truths.  I  could  say  much  more  on  this  subject,  but  why  enter  into 
discussions  which  have  long  ceased  to  be  either  seasonable  or  useful  ? 
England  was,  literally,  in  the  case  of  the  Quos  Deus  vult  perdere.— 
Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AM  ERIC  A.  13 

the  Jerseys,  who  lived  formerly  at  New- York,  and  who  now 
resides  on  an  estate  at  a  little  distance  from  the  road  we  were 
to  pass  the  next  day.  He  proposed  to  me  to  go  and  sleep 
there,  or  at  least  to  take  a  dinner ;  I  begged  to  be  excused, 
from  the  fear  of  being  obliged  to  pay  compliments,  of  straight 
ening  others,  or  of  being  myself  straightened ;  he  did  not  in 
sist,  so  that  I  pursued  my  journey,  sometimes  through  fine 
woods,  at  others  through  well  cultivated  lands,  and  villages  in 
habited  by  Dutch  families.  One  of  these  villages,  which  forms 
a  little  township,  bears  the  beautiful  name  of  Troy.  Here  the 
country  is  more  open  and  continues  so  to  Morristown.  This 
town,  celebrated  by  the  winter-quarters  of  1779,  is  about  three 
and  twenty  miles  from  Prakeness,  the  name  of  the  head-quar 
ters  from  whence  I  came.  It  is  situated  on  a  height,  at  the 
foot  of  which  runs  the  rivulet  called  Vipenny  river ;  the  houses 
are  handsome  and  well  built,  there  are  about  sixty  or  eighty 
round  the  Meeting-house.  I  intended  stopping  at  Morristown 
only  to  bait  my  horses,  for  it  was  but  half  past  two,  but  on 
entering  the  inn  of  Mr.  Arnold,  I  saw  a  dining-room  adorned 
with  looking-glasses  and  handsome  mahogany  furniture,  and  a 
table  spread  for  twelve  persons.  I  learnt  that  all  this  prepa 
ration  was  for  me ;  and  what  affected  me  more  nearly,  was  to- 
see  a  dinner,  corresponding  with  these  appearances,  ready  to 
serve  up.  I  was  indebted  for  this  to  the  goodness  of  General 
Washington,  and  the  precautions  of  Colonel  Moyland,  who  had 
sent  before  to  acquaint  them  with  my  arrival.  It  would  have 
been  very  ungracious  to  have  accepted  this  dinner  at  the  ex 
pense  of  Mr.  Arnold,  who  is  an  honest  man  and  a  good  whig, 
and  who  has  not  a  particle  in  common  with  Benedict  Arnold; 
it  would  have  been  still  more  awkward  to  have  paid  for  the 
banquet  without  eating  it.  I  therefore  instantly  determined 
to  dine  and  sleep  in  this  comfortable  inn.  The  Vicomte  de 
Noailles,  the  Comte  de  Damas,  &c.  were  expected  to  make  up 
the  dozen ;  but  these  young  travellers,  who  had  reckoned 
during  their  stay  with  the  army,  on  being  witnesses  to  some 
encounters,  were  desirous  of  indemnifying  themselves  by  riding 
along  the  bank  of  the  river,  to  take  a  look  at  York  island,  and 
try  if  they  could  not  tempt  the  enemy  to  favour  them  with  a 
few  shot.  M.  de  la  Fayette  himself  conducted  them,  with  an 
escort  of  twenty  dragoons.  They  deferred  for  a  day  therefore 
their  journey  to  Philadelphia,  and  I  had  no  other  guests  but  a 
secretary  and  aid-de-camp  of  M.  de  la  Fayette,  who  arrived 
as  I  was  at  table,  well  disposed  to  supply  the  deficiency  of  the 
absent. 

After  dinner  I  had  a  visit  from  General  St.  Clair,  whom  I 
had  already  seen  at  the  army,  which  he  had  left  the  preceding 


76  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

evening  to  sleep  at  Morristown.  It  was  he  who  commanded 
on  Lake  Champlain,  at  the  evacuation  of  Ticonderoga ;  a  ter 
rible  clamour  was  raised  against  him  on  that  occasion,  and  he 
was  tried  by  a  council  of  war,  but  honourably  acquitted?  not 
only  because  his  retreat  was  attended  with  the  best  conse 
quences  ;  Burgoyne  having  been  forced  to  capitulate  ;  but  be 
cause  it  was  proved  that  he  had  been  left  in  want  of  every 
thing  necessary  for  the  defence  of  the  post  entrusted  to  him. 
He  was  born  in  Scotland,  where  he  has  a  family  and  property  ; 
he  is  esteemed  a  good  officer,  and,  if  the  war  continues,  will 
certainly  act  a  principal  part  in  the  army.t 

I  set  out  from  Morristown  the  28th,  at  eight  in  the  morning, 
with  very  lowering  weather,  which  did  not  hinder  me,  how 
ever,  from  observing,  to  the  right  of  the  road,  the  huts  occu 
pied  by  the  troops  in  the  winter  of  1779 — 80.  Some  miles 
from  thence,  we  met  a  man  on  horseback,  who  came  to  meet 
Colonel  Moyland  with  a  letter  from  his  wife.  After  reading  it, 
he  said  to  me,  with  a  truly  European  politeness,  that  we  must 
always  obey  the  women ;  that  his  wife  would  accept  of  no  ex 
cuse,  and  expected  me  to  dinner ;  but  he  assured  me  that  he 
Would  take  me  by  a  road  which  should  not  be  a  mile  out  of  my 
•way,  whilst  my  people  pursued  their  journey,  and  went  to  wait 
for  me  at  Somerset  court-house.  I  was  now  too  well  acquaint 
ed  with  my  colonel,  and  too  much  pleased  with  him,  to  refuse 
this  invitation ;  I  followed  him,  therefore,  and  after  crossing  a 
wood,  found  myself  on  a  height,  the  position  of  which  struck 
me  at  first  sight.  I  remarked  to  Colonel  Moyland,  that  I  was 
much  mistaken  if  this  ground  was  not  well  calculated  for  an 
advantageous  camp :  he  replied,  that  it  was  precisely  that  of 
Middlebrook,  where  General  Washington  had  stopped  the 
English  in  June,  1777,  when  Sir  William  Howe  was  endea 
vouring  to  traverse  the  Jerseys  to  pass  the  Delaware,  and  take 
Philadelphia.  Continuing  my  journey,  and  looking  about  me 
as  far  as  my  view  would  reach,  the  shape  alone  of  the  ground 
made  me  imagine,  that  the  right  could  not  be  very  good ;  I 
then  learnt  with  pleasure  that  General  Washington  had  built 
two  strong  redoubts  there.  The  reader  will  permit  me  the  fol 
lowing  short  reflection,  that  the  best  method  for  military  men, 
in  following  on  the  ground,  the  campaigns  of  great  generals, 
is  not  to  have  the  different  positions  pointed  out  and  explained 

*  The  terms  of  his  acquittal  are — ivith  tfie  highest  honour. — Trans. 

t  General  St.  Glair's  defence  on  this  trial,  which  was  lent  me  by  Mr. 
Arthur  Middleton,  one  of  the  Delegates  in  Congress  for  South-Caro 
lina,  is  an  admirable  piece  of  reasoning  and  eloquence. — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  77 

to  them  :  it  is  much  better,  before  they  are  made  acquainted 
with  these  details,  to  visit  the  places,  to  look  well  about  on 
every  side,  and  to  propose  to  themselves  some  problems  on  the 
nature  of  the  ground,  and  on  the  advantages  to  be  derived 
from  it ;  then  to  compare  ideas  with  facts,  by  which  means  they 
will  be  enabled  to  rectify  one,  and  to  appreciate  the  other. 

On  descending  from  the  heights,  we  turned  a  little  to  the 
left,  and  found  ourselves  on  the  side  of  a  rivulet,  which  brought 
us  into  a  deep  vale.  The  various  cascades  formed  by  this 
stream,  in  precipitating  itself  over  the  rocks  ;  the  ancient  fir- 
trees  with  which  it  is  surrounded,  a  part  of  which  have  fallen 
from  age,  and  lie  across  its  course  ;  the  furnaces  belonging  to 
some  copper  mines,  half  destroyed  by  the  English  ;  these  ruins 
of  nature,  and  these  ravages  of  war,  composed  the  most  poetic, 
or  according  to  the  English  expression,  the  most  romantic 
picture  ;  for  it  is  precisely  what  is  called  in  England  a  romantic 
prospect.  It  is  here  that  Colonel  Moyland's  father-in-law  has 
fitted  a  little  rural  asylum,  where  his  family  go  to  avoid  the 
heats  of  the  summer,  and  where  they  sometimes  pass  whole 
nights  in  listening  to  the  song  of  the  mocking  bird,  for  the 
nightingale  does  not  sing  in  America.  We  know  that  great 
musicians  are  oftener  to  be  met  with  in  the  courts  of  despots, 
than  in  republics.  Here  the  songster  of  the  night  is  neither 
the  graceful  Melicv,  nor  the  pathetic  Tenducci ;  he  is  the  Bouf- 
fon  Garibaldi:  he  has  no  song,  and  consequently  no  sentiment 
peculiar  to  himself:  he  counterfeits  in  the  evening  what  he 
has  heard  in  the  day.  Has  he  heard  the  lark  or  the  thrush,  it 
is  the  lark  or  the  thrush  you  hear.  Have  some  workmen  been 
employed  in  the  woods,  or  has  he  been  near  their  house,  he  will 
sing  precisely  as  they  do.  If  they  are  Scotchmen,  he  will 
repeat  you  the  air  of  some  gentle  and  plaintive  tale ;  if  they  are 
Germans,  you  will  discover  the  clumsy  gaiety  of  a  Swabian,  or 
Alsatian.  Sometimes  he  cries  like  a  child,  at  others  he  laughs 
like  a  young  girl :  nothing,  in  short,  is  more  entertaining  than 
this  comic  bird ;  but  he  performs  only  in  summer,  and  so  it 
happened  that  I  never  had  the  good  fortune  to  hear  him.* 

After  travelling  two  miles  in  this  sort  of  gorge,  the  woods 
begin  to  open,  and  we  soon  found  ourselves  beyond  the  moun 
tains.  On  the  brow  of  these  mountains,  to  the  south,  were 
the  huts  occupied  by  a  part  of  the  army  in  1779,  after  the  bat 
tle  of  Monmouth.  We  soon  arrived  at  Colonel  Moyland's  or 
rather  at  Colonel  Vanhorn's,  his  father-in-law.  This  manor  is 
in  a  beautiful  situation ;  it  is  surrounded  by  some  trees,  the 


*  The  translator,  as  well  as  most  travellers  in  America,  particularly 
in  the  middle  states,  can  testify  the  accuracy  of  this  account. —  Trans. 


T8  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA, 

approach  is  decorated  with  a  grass  plot,  and  if  it  was  better 
taken  care  of,  one  would  think  ones-self  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  London,  rather  than  in  that  of  New-York.  Mr.  Vanhorn 
came  to  meet  me  :  he  is  a  tall,  lusty  man,  near  sixty  years  of 
age,  but  vigorous,  hearty,  and  good  humoured;  he  is  called 
Colonel  from  the  station  he  held  in  the  militia,  under  the  Eng 
lish  government.  He  resigned  some  time  before  the  war  :  he 
was  then  a  merchant  and  cultivator,  passing  the  winter  at 
New- York,  and  the  summer  in  the  country ;  but  since  the  war 
he  has  quitted  that  town,  and  retired  to  his  manor,  always 
faithful  to  his  country,  without  rendering  himself  odious  to  the 
English,  with  whom  he  has  left  two  of  his  sons  in  the  Jamaica 
trade,  but  who,  if  the  war  continues,  are  to  sell  their  property 
and  come  and  live  with  their  father.  Nothing  can  prove  more 
strongly  the  integrity  of  his  conduct,  than  the  esteem  in  which 
he  is  held  by  both  parties.  Situated  at  ten  miles  from  Staten- 
Island,  near  to  Rariton,  Amboy,  and  Brunswick,  he  has  fre 
quently  found  himself  in  the  midst  of  the  theatre  of  war ;  so 
that  he  has  sometimes  had  the  Americans  with  him,  sometimes 
the  English.  It  even  happened  to  him  once  in  the  same  day, 
to  give  a  breakfast  to  Lord  Cornwallis  and  a  dinner  to  General 
Lincoln.  Lord  Cornwallis,  informed  that  the  latter  had  slept 
at  Mr.  Vanhorn's,  came  to  take  him  by  surprise ;  but  Lincoln, 

getting  intelligence  of  his  design,  retired  into  the  woods, 
ord  Cornwallis,  astonished  not  to  find  him,  asked  if  the 
American  General  was  not  concealed  in  his  house :  "  No," 
replied  Mr.  Vanhorn,  bluntly.  "  On  your  honour*?"  says 
Cornwallis.  "  On  my  honour,  and  if  you  doubt  it,  here  are  the 
keys,  you  may  search  every  where."  "  I  shall  take  your  word 
for  it,"  said  Lord  Cornwallis,  and  asked  for  some  breakfast ; 
an  hour  afterwards  he  returned  to  the  army.  Lincoln,  who 
was  concealed  at  no  great  distance,  immediately  returned,  and 
dined  quietly  with  his  hosts. 

The  acquaintance  I  made  with  Mr.  Vanhorn  being  very 
prompt  and  cordial,  he  conducted  me  to  the  parlour,  where  I 
found  his  wife,  his  three  daughters,  a  young  lady  of  the  neigh 
bourhood,  and  two  young  officers.  Mrs.  Vanhorn  is  an  old 
lady,  who,  from  her  countenance,  her  dress,  and  her  deport 
ment,  perfectly  resembled  a  picture  of  Vandyke.  She  does  the 
honours  of  the  table  with  exactness,  helps  every  body  without 
saying  a  word,  and  the  rest  of  the  time  is  like  a  family  portrait. 
Her  three  daughters  are  not  amiss :  Mrs.  Moyland,  the  eldest, 
is  six  months  advanced  in  her  pregnancy ;  the  youngest  only 
twelve  years  old,  but  the  second  is  marriageable.  She  ap 
peared  to  be  on  terms  of  great  familiarity  with  one  of  the  young 
officers,  who  was  in  a  very  elegant  undress,  forming  a  good 
representation  of  an  agreeable  country  squire ;  at  table  he 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  79 

picked  her  nuts  for  her,  and  often  took  her  hands.  I  imagined 
that  he  was  an  intended  husband ;  but  the  other  officer,  with 
whom  I  had  the  opportunity  of  conversing  as  he  accompanied 
us  in  the  evening,  told  me  that  he  did  not  believe  there  was 
any  idea  of  marriage  between  them.  I  mention  these  trifles 
only  to  show  the  extreme  liberty  that  prevails  between  the  two 
sexes,  as  long  as  they  are  unmarried.  It  is  no  crime  for  a  girl 
to  embrace  a  young  man  ;  it  would  be  a  very  heinous  one  for 
a  married  woman  even  to  show  a  desire  of  pleasing.*  Mrs. 
Carter,f  a  handsome  young  woman,  whose  husband  is  con 
cerned  in  furnishing  our  army  with  provisions,  and  lives  at 
present  at  Newport,  told  me,  that  going  down  one  morning 
into  her  husband's  office,  not  much  decked  out,  but  in  a  rather 
elegant  French  undress,  a  farmer  of  the  Massachusetts  state, 
who  was  there  on  business,  seemed  surprised  at  seeing  her, 
and  asked  who  that  young  lady  was.  On  being  told,  Mrs. 


*  Though  this  freedom  prevails  among  all  ranks,  it  is  particularly 
striking  among  the  middling  classes  and  common  people.  Not  to 
speak  of  the  New-England  bundling,  a  practice  which  has  been  so 
often  mentioned,  the  Translator  has  seen, a  grave  Quaker  and  his  wife 
sitting  on  their  bench  at  their  door,  as  is  the  custom  at  Philadelphia 
in  the  summer  evenings  and  along  side  of  them  the  apprentice  boy  of 
sixteen,  and  the  servant  girl,  or  perhaps  one  of  the  daughters  of  the 
family,  not  only  kissing  and  embracing  each  other,  hut  proceeding  to 
such  familiarities  as  would  shock  modesty,  and  draw  down  the  ven 
geance  of  the  virtuous  citizen  of  London  ;  and  all  this,  not  only  without 
reprehension,  but  even  with  marks  of  complacency  on  the  part  of  the 
good  old  folks.  Even  the  last  slip,  is  no  essential  blemish  in  the 
character  of  the  frail  fair  one.  Both  sexes  arrive  early  at  puberty, 
their  constitutions  are  warm,  there  are  few  restraints,  and  they  lose  no 
time  in  completing  the  great  object,  the  population  of  the  country. — 
Trans. 

t  Mrs.  Carter  is  the  daughter  of  General  Schuyler,  and  is  now 
called  Church ;  her  hushand,  Mr.  John  Barker  Church,  having  re-as 
sumed  his  real  name  on  his  return  to  England  since  the  peace.  ,He 
is  an  English  gentleman  of  a  very  respectable  family  and  connexions  ; 
but  having  been  unfortunate  in  business  in  London  in  the  outset  of  life, 
retired  to  America,  where,  from  his  known  principles  he  was  recei 
ved  as  a  good  whig.  He  took  the  name  of  Carter,  that  his  friends 
might  hear  nothing  of  him,  until  by  his  industry  he  had  retrieved  his 
affairs.  His  activity  in  the  revolution,  brought  him  acquainted  with 
General  Schuyler,  whose  daughter  he  soon  after  married ;  and  on  the 
arrival  of  the  French  troops,  got  a  principal  share  of  the  contract  for 
supplying  them,  in  conjunction  with  Col.  Wadsworth.  Since  the  war 
he  has  returned  to  Europe,  with  a-very  considerable  fortune,  settled  all 
his  affairs,  and  is  happily  and  honourably  restored  to  his  friends  «nd 
family. —  Trans. 


80  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

Carter — "  Aye  /"  said  he,  loud  enough  for  her  to  hear  him, 
"  vtf  wife  and  a  mother,  truly ,  has  no  business  to  be  so  well  dressed." 
At  3  o'clock  I  got  on  horseback,  with  Colonel  Moyland,  and 
Captain  Herne,  one  of  the  young  officers  I  had  dined  with. 
He  is  in  the  light  cavalry,  and  consequently  in  Colonel  Moy- 
land's  regiment.  His  size  and  figure,  which  I  had  already- 
remarked,  appeared  to  still  more  advantage  on  horseback.  I 
observed  that  he  was  seated  in  a  very  noble  and  easy  manner, 
and  in  perfect  conformity  to  our  principles  of  horsemanship. 
I  asked  where  he  had  studied  horsemanship.  He  told  me 
at  his  own  regiment  ;  that  his  desire  to  teach  the  soldiers 
induced  him  to  learn  it  ;  and  that  he  made  it  his  business 
to  render  them  as  expert  in  the  exercise  as  himself. 
Though  but  one  and  twenty,  he  had  already  acquired  great  ex 
perience,  and  distinguished  himself  the  preceding  year,  in  an 
affair  where  a  small  body  of  American  light  horse  beat  a  much 
more  considerable  one  of  English  dragoons.  I  had  a  long 
conversation  with  him,  and  he  always  spoke  to  me  with  a  mo 
desty,  and  a  grace  which  would  be  favourably  received  by  all 
the  military  in  Europe,  and  which  to  all  appearance,  would  be 
as  successful  at  Paris  as  in  camps. 

We  had  scarcely  proceeded  three  miles,  before  we  found 
ourselves   in  the  Princeton  road,  and  on  the  banks  of   the 
Rariton,  which  may  be  easily  passed  by  fording,  or  over  a  wood 
en  bridge.     Two  miles  farther  we  crossed  the  Millstone,  the 
Jeft  bank  of  which  we  followed  to  Somerset  Court-house.     Of 
all  the  parts  of  America  I  had  hitherto  passed  through,  this  is 
the  most  open;  we  meet  with  handsome  little   plains  here, 
where  from  fifteen  to  twenty  thousand  men  might  be  encamp 
ed.     General  Howe  had  not  less  when  he  passed  the  Rariton 
in  1777.     His  right  was  supported  by  a  wood,  beyond  which 
runs  the  Millstone  ;  his  left  also  extended  towards  other  woods. 
General  Washington  at  that  time  occupied  the  camp  at  Mid- 
dlebrook,  and  General  Sullivan,  at  the  head  of  only  1500  men, 
was  six  miles  from  the  army,  and  three  miles  from  the  left  of 
the  enemy.     In  this  position  he  was  near  enough  to  harass 
them,  without  committing  himself  as  he  had  in  his  rear  the 
mountains  of  Saourland.     They  who  in   the   last  war,  have 
passed  through  Saourland,  will  easily  conceive  that  the  coun 
try  to  which  the  German  emigrants  have  given  this  name,  is  not 
very  easy  of  access.     I  found  my  suite  at  Somerset  court-house, 
where  they  were  waiting  for  me  in  a  pretty  good  inn,  but  as 
there  was  still  some  daylight,  and  I  had  calculated  my  next 
day's  journey,  which  required  that  I  should  gain  something  in 
the  present,  I  determined  to  proceed  farther.     The  night,  which 
soon  came  on,  prevented  me  from  making  any  more  observa 
tions  on  the  country.     After  once  more  passing  the  Millstone, 
'j,nd  getting  well  out  of  a  horrible  slough,  we  halted  at  Gregg- 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  £1 

town,  where  we  slept  at  Skilman's  tavern,  an  indifferent  inn, 
but  kept  by  very  obliging  people.  Captain  Herne  continued 
his  route.  Our  next  day's  ride  presented  us  with  very  interest 
ing  objects :  we  were  to  see  two  places  which  will  be  for  ever 
dear  to  the  Americans,  since  it  was  there  the  first  rays  of  hope 
brightened  upon  them,  or,  to  express  it  more  properly,  that  the 
safety  of  the  country  was  effected.  These  celebrated  places 
are  Princeton,  and  Trenton.  I  shall  not  say  I  went  to  see 
them,  for  they  lay  precisely  in  the  road.  Let  the  reader  judge 
then  how  much  I  was  out  of  humour,  on  seeing  so  thick  a  fog 
rising,  as  to  prevent  me  from  distinguishing  objects  at  fifty  paces 
from  me  :  but  I  was  in  a  country  where  one  must  despair  of 
nothing.  The  fortune  of  the  day  was  like  that  of  America  'f 
the  fog  suddenly  dispersed,  and  I  found  myself  travelling  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Millstone,  in  a  narrow  valley.  Two 
miles  from  Greggtown  we  quit  this  valley,  and  mount  the  high 
est  of  Rocky-hill,  where  are  a  few  houses.  Kingstown  is  a 
mile  farther,  but  still  on  the  Millstone  ;  the  Maidenhead  road 
ends  here,  and  its  communication  is  facilitated  by  a  bridge 
built  over  the  rivulet.  It  is  here  that  General  Washington 
halted  after  the  affair  of  Princeton.  After  marching  from 
midnight  until  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  almost  continually 
fighting  :  he  wished  to  collect  the  troops,  and  give  them  some 
rest  ;  he  knew,  however,  that  Lord  Cornwallis  was  following 
him  on  the  Maidenhead  road  ;  but  he  contented  himself  with 
taking  up  some  planks  of  the  bridge,  and  as  soon  as  he  saw 
the  vanguard  of  the  English  appear,  he  continued  his  march 
quietly  towards  Middlebrook.  Beyond  Kingstown,  the  coun 
try  begins  to  open,  and  continues  so  to  Princeton.  This 
town  is  situated  on  a  sort  of  platform  not  much  elevated,  but 
which  commands  on  all  sides :  it  has  only  one  street  formed 
by  the  high  road  ;  there  are  about  sixty  or  eighty  houses,  all 
tolerably  well  built,  but  little  attention  is  paid  them,  for  that  is 
immediately  attracted  by  an  immense  building,  which  is  visible 
at  a  considerable  distance.  It  is  a  college  built  by  the  state 
of  Jersey  some  years  before  the  war  ;  as  this  building  is  only 
remarkable  from  its  size,  it  is  unnecessary  to  describe  it ;  the 
reader  will  only  recollect,  when  I  come  to  speak  of  the  en 
gagement,  that  it  is  on  the  left  of  the  road  in  going  to  Phila 
delphia,  that  it  is  situated  towards  the  middle  of  the  town,  on 
a  distinct  spot  of  ground,  and  that  the  entrance  to  it  is  by  a 
large  square  court  surrounded  with  lofty  palisades.  The  ob 
ject  which  excited  rny  curiosity,  though  very  foreign  from  let 
ters  at  that  moment,  brought  me  to  the  very  gate  of  the  college. 
I  dismounted  for  a  moment  to  visit  this  vast  edifice,  and  was 
soon  joined  by  Dr.  Witherspoon,  President  of  the  university. 
He  is  a  man  of  at  least  sixty,  is  a  member  of  Congress, 


82  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

much  respected  in  this  country.  In  accosting  me  he  spoke 
French,  but  I  easily  perceived  that  he  had  acquired  his  know 
ledge  of  that  language,  from  reading,  rather  than  conversa 
tion  ;  which  did  not  prevent  me,  however,  from  answering  him, 
and  continuing  to  converse  with  him  in  French,  for  I  saw  that 
he  was  well  pleased  to  display  what  he  knew  of  it.  This  is  an 
attention  which  costs  little,  and  is  too  much  neglected  in  a 
foreign  country.  To  reply  in  English  to  a  person  who  speaks 
French  to  you,  is  to  tell  him,  you  do  not  know  my  language  so 
well  as  I  do  yours  :  in  this,  too,  one  is  not  unfrequently  mista 
ken.  As  for  me,  I  always  like  better  to  have  the  advantage  on 
my  side,  and  to  fight  on  my  own  ground.  I  conversed  in 
French,  therefore,  with  the  President,  and  from  him  I  learnt 
that  this  college  is  a  complete  university  ;  that  it  can  contain 
two  hundred  students,  and  more,  including  the  out  boarders : 
that  the  distribution  of  the  studies  is  formed  so  as  to  make  only 
one  class  for  the  humanities  ;  which  corresponds  with  our  first 
four  classes ;  that  two  others  are  destined  to  the  perfecting 
the  youth  in  the  study  of  Latin  and  Greek  ;  a  fourth  to  Natural 
Philosophy,  Mathematics,  Astronomy,  &c.  and  a  fifth  to  Moral 
Philosophy.  Parents  may  support  their  children  at  this  col 
lege  at  the  annual  expense  of  forty  guineas.  Half  of  this  sum 
is  appropriated  to  lodgings  and  masters  ;  the  rest  is  sufficient 
for  living,  either  in  the  college,  or  at  board  in  private  houses 
in  the  town.  This  useful  establishment  has  fallen  into  decay 
since  the  war  ;  there  were  only  forty  students  when  I  saw  it. 
A  handsome  collection  of  books  had  been  made  ;  the  greatest 
part  of  which  has  been  embezzled.  The  English  even  carried 
off  from  the  chapel  the  portrait  of  the  king  of  England,  a  loss 
for  which  the  Americans  easily  consoled  themselves,  declaring 
they  would  have  no  king  among  them,  not  even  a  painted 
one.  There  still  remains  a  very  beautiful  astronomical  ma 
chine  ;  but  as  it  was  then  out  of  order,  and  differs  in  no  respect 
from  that  I  saw  afterwards  in  Philadelphia,  I  shall  take  no  no 
tice  of  it.*  I  confess  also  that  I  was  rather  anxious  to  exa- 


*  This  is  the  celebrated  Orrery  of  Hittenhouse,  the  supposed  de 
struction  of  which  made  so  much  noise  at  the  beginning  of  the  civil  war, 
and  sullied  the  English  name  in  the  eyes  of  ail  enlightened  Europe. 
Justice,  however,  requires  from  the  Translator  to  declare,  that  from  his 
inquiries,  and  examination  on  the  spot,  the  report  had  no  other  foun 
dation  than,  that  they  intended  to  remove,  and  send  it  as  a  present  to 
the  King.  It  may  possibly  be  said,  and  would  to  God  that  such  a 
conjecture  were  not  too  well  warranted  by  the  whole  conduct  of  the 
war,  that  to  this  motive  only  may  be  attributed  its  preservation  ;  how 
ever  that  may  be,  their  sudden  dislodgement  from  Princeton  pre 
served  the  Orrery,  and.  as  far  as  that  goes,  the  national  character. — 

7V0f«r. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH  AMERICA.  83 

mine  the  traces  of  General  Washington,  in  a  country  where  every 
object  reminded  me  of  his  successes.  I  passed  rapidly  there 
fore  from  Parnassus  to  the  field  of  Mars,  and  from  the  hands 
of  President  Witherspoon  *  into  those  of  Colonel  Moyland. 
They  were  both  equally  upon  their  own  ground  ;  so  that  while 
one  was  pulling  me  by  the  right  arm,  telling  me,  here  is  the  phi 
losophy  class  ;  the  other  was  plucking  me  by  the  left,  to  show 
me  where  one  hundred  and  eighty  English  laid  down  their 
arms. 

Every  person  who,  since  the  commencement  of  the  war,  has 
only  given  himself  the  trouble  of  reading  the  Gazettes,  may  re 
collect  that  General  Washington  surprised  the  town  of  Tren 
ton  the  25th  of  December,  1776  ;  that,  immediately  after  this 
expedition,  he  retired  to  the  other  side  of  the  Delaware,  but 
that  having  received  a  small  addition  to  his  force,  he  repassed 
the  river  a  second  time,  and  encamped  at  Trenton.  Lord 
Comwallis  had  now  collected  his  troops,  before  dispersed,  in 
winter-quarters.  He  marched  against  Washington,  who  was 
obliged  to  place  the  Assampik,  or  river  of  Trenton,  between 
the  enemy  and  him.  By  this  means  the  town  was  divided  be 
tween  the  two  armies  ;  the  Americans  occupying  the  left  bank 
of  the  creek,  and  the  English  the  right.  Lord  Comwallis'  ar 
my  was  receiving  hourly  reinforcements ;  two  brigades  from 
Brunswick  were  expected  to  join  him,  and  he  only  waited 
their  arrival  to  make  the  attack,  f  General  Washington  on  the 
other  hand,  was  destitute  of  provisions,  and  cut  off  from  all 
communication  with  the  fertile  country  of  the  Jerseys,  and  the 
four  eastern  states.  Such  was  his  position,  when,  on  the  se 
cond  of  January,  at  one  o'clock  in  the  morning,  he  ordered  the 
fires  to  be  well  kept  up,  and  some  soldiers  to  be  left  to  take  care 
of  them,  whilst  the  remainder  of  the  army  should  march  by  the 

*  This  gentleman  is  so  well  known  in  Europe  as  to  render  it  un 
necessary  to  enter  into  any  particulars  respecting  him.  He  certainly 
played  a  much  more  important  part  on  the  theatre  of  this  grand  revo 
lution,  than  by  heading  the  low  church  party,  as  it  is  called  in  Scotland, 
and  displaying  his  eloquence,  as  I  have  seen  him,  at  presbyteries  and 
synods. — Trans. 

I  Lord  Comwallis  made  one  or  two  attempts  to  force  the  small 
stone  bridge  over  the  creek  at  Trenton,  but  was  so  galled  by  a  small 
battery  which  commanded  it,  and  a  body  of  chosen  men,  placed  by 
General  Washington  in  the  Mill-house,  that  he  gave  up  the  attempt, 
from  a  contempt  of  his  enemy  ;  looking  upon  them  as  his  certain 
prey,  their  retreat  over  the  Delaware,  then  full  of  ice,  being  impracti 
cable  ;  for  the  same  reason,  probably  he  made  no  attempt  to  cross  the 
creek  in  any  other  part. —  Trans. 


84  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

right,  to  fall  back  afterwards  on  the  left,  pass  the  rear  of  the 
English  army,  and  enter  the  Jerseys.  It  was  necessary  to  throw 
themselves  considerably  to  the  right,  in  order  to  reach  Aliens- 
town,  and  the  sources  of  the  Assampik,  and  then  to  fall  on 
Princeton.  About  a  mile  from  this  town,  General  Washing 
ton's  vanguard,  on  entering  the  main  road,  fell  in  with  Colonel 
Mawhood,  who  was  marching  quietly  at  the  head  of  his  regi 
ment  in  his  way  to  Maidenhead  and  thence  to  Trenton. 
General  Mercer  immediately  attacked  him,  but  was  repulsed 
by  the  enemies  fire  ;  he  then  attempted  to  charge  with  the 
bayonet,  but  unfortunately,  in  leaping  a  ditch,  was  surrounded 
and  put  to  the  sword  by  the  English.  The  troops,  who  were 
in  general  militia,  discouraged  by  the  loss  of  their  commander, 
retreated  into  the  woods,  to  wait  for  the  remainder  of  the  army, 
which  arrived  soon  after  :  but  Colonel  Mawhood  had  continu 
ed  his  route  to  Maidenhead,  so  that  General  Washington  had 
only  to  do  with  the  forty-eighth  regiment,  part  of  which  had 
appeared  upon  the  main  road  on  the  first  alarm  of  the  attack. 
He  pushed  these  troops  vigorously,  dispersed  them,  and  made 
fifty  or  sixty  prisoners.  General  Sullivan,  however,  was  ad 
vancing  rapidly,  leaving  ori  his  left  the  Princeton  road,  with 
the  design  of  turning  that  town,  and  of  cutting  off  the  retreat  of 
the  troops,  who  occupied  it,  to  Brunswick.  Two  hundred 
English  had  thrown  themselves  into  a  wood  by  which  he  was 
to  pass,  but  they  did  not  long  hold  it,  and  returned  in  dis 
order  to  Nassau-hall,  the  name  of  the  college  I  have  been  speak 
ing  of.  This  they  ought  to  have  taken  possession  of,  and  have 
there  made  a  vigorous  defence.  To  all  appearance  their  offi 
cers  were  bewildered,  for  instead  of  entering  the -house,  or  even 
the  court,  they  remained  in  a  sort  of  wide  street,  where  they 
were  surrounded  and  obliged  to  lay  down  their  arms,  to  the 
number  of  one  hundred  and  eighty,  not  including  fourteen  offi 
cers.  As  for  General  Washington,  after  taking  or  dispersing 
every  thing  before  him,  he  collected  his  troops,  marched  on  to 
•Kingstown,  where  he  halted,  as  I  have  already  mentioned,  and 
continued  his  route  towards  Middlebrook ;  having  thus  march 
ed  near  thirty  miles  in  one  day,  but  still  regretting  that  his 
troops  were  too  much  fatigued  to  proceed  to  Brunswick,  which 
he  could  have  taken  without  any  difficulty.  Lord  Cornwallis 
had  now  nothing  left  but  to  hasten  thilher  as  fast  as  possible 
with  his  whole  army.  From  this  moment  Pennsylvania  was  in 
safety,  the  Jerseys  were  evacuated,  and  the  English  reduced 
to  the  towns  of  Brunswick  and  Amboy,  where  they  were  obli 
ged  to  act  always  on  the  defensive,  not  being  able  to  stir,  nor 
even  to  forage,  without  being  driven  back,  and  roughly  handled 
by  the  militia  of  the  country.  Thus  we  see  that  the  great 
events  of  war  are  not  always  great  battles,  and  humanity  may 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

receive  some  consolation  from  this  sole  reflection,  that  the  art 
of  war  is  not  necessarily  a  sanguinary  art,  that  the  talents  of 
the  commanders  spare  the  lives  of  the  soldiers,  and  that  igno 
rance  alone  is  prodigal  of  blood. 

The  affair  of  Trenton,  whence  this  originated,  cost  no  dearer, 
and  was  perhaps  more  glorious,  without  being  more  useful. 
Addison  said,  in  visiting  the  different  monuments  of  Italy,  that 
he  imagined  himself  treading  on  classic  ground ;  all  my  steps 
were  on  martial  ground,  and  I  was  in  the  same  morning  to  see 
two  fields  of  battle. 


CHAPTER  V. 


TRENTON BRISTOL PHILADELPHIA. 

1  ARRIVED  early  at  Trenton,  having  remarked  nothing  inte~ 
resting  on  the  road,  unless  it  be  the  beauty  of  the  country, 
which  every  where  corresponds  with  the  reputation  of  the 
Jerseys,  called  the  garden  of  America.  On  approaching  Tren 
ton,  the  road 'descends  a  little,  and  permits  one  to  see  at  the 
east  end  of  the  town  the  orchard  where  the  Hessians  hastily 
collected,  and  surrendered  prisoners.  This  is  almost  all  that 
oan  be  said  of  this  affair,  which  has  been  amplified  by  the  Ga 
zettes  on  one  side  and  the  other.  We  know  that  General 
Washington,  at  the  head  only  of  three  thousand  men,  passed 
the  Delaware  in  dreadful  weather,  on  the  night  of  the  24th 
and  25th  of  December ;  that  he  divided  his  troops  into  two 
columns,  one  of  which  made  a  circuit  to  gain  a  road  upon  the 
left  leading  to  the  Maidenhead-road,  whilst  the  other  marched 
along  the  river,  straight  to  Trenton ;  that  the  main  guard  of 
the  Hessians  was  surprised,  and  that  the  brigade  had  scarcely 
time  to  get  under  arms.  The  park  of  artillery  was  near  a 
church,  they  were  attempting  to  harness  the  horses,  when  the 
American  vanguard,  which  had  forced  the  piquet,  fired  on  and 
killed  almost  all  of  them.  General  Washington  arrived  with  the 
right  column;  the  Hessians  were  surrounded,  and  fired  a  few 
random  shot,  without  order.  General  Washington  suffered 
them  to  do  so,  but  he  availed  himself  of  the  first  moment  of 
the  slackening  of  their  fire,  to  send  an  officer  who  spoke  French 
to  them,  for  our  language  supplies  the  want  of  all  others.  The 
Hessians  hearkened  very  willingly  to  his  proposal.  The  gene 
ral  promised  that  the  effects  they  had  left  in  their  houses  should 
not  be  pillaged,  and  they  soon  laid  down  their  arms,  which 
they  had  scarcely  had  time  to  take  up.  Their  position  was  cer 
tainly  not  a  good  one ;  nor  can  I  conceive  it  possible  that  this 
could  be  a  field  of  battle  fixed  upon  in  case  of  an  alarm.  They 
would  have  had  a  sure  retreat  by  passing  the  bridge  over  the 
creek  at  the  south  end  of  the  town,  but  the  vanguard  of  the 
right  column  had  got  possession  of  it.  Such,  in  a  few  words, 
was  this  event,  which  is  neither  honourable  nor  dishonourable 
for  the  Hessians  ;  but  which  proves  that  no  troops  existing  can 
be  reckoned  on,  when  they  suffer  themselves  to  be  surprised. 
After  viewing  so  manv  battles,  it  was  but  right  to  think  of 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH  AMERICA.  87 

dinner.  I  found  my  head-quarters  well  established  in  a  good 
inn  kept  by  Mr.  Williams.  The  sign  of  this  inn  is  a  philo 
sophical,  or,  if  you  will,  a  political  emblem.  It  represents  a 
beaver  at  work,  with  his  little  teeth,  to  bring  down  a  large  tree, 
and  underneath  is  written,  perseverando.  I  had  scarce  alighted 
from  my  horse,  before  I  received  a  visit  from  Mr.  Livingston,* 
governor  of  the  Jerseys.  He  is  an  old  man  much  respected, 
and  who  passes  for  a  very  sensible  man.  He  was  pleased  to 
accompany  me  in  a  little  walk  I  took  before  dinner,  to  examine 
the  environs  of  the  town,  and  see  the  camp  occupied  by  the 
Americans  before  the  affair  of  Princeton.  I  returned  to  din 
ner  with  Colonel  Moyland,  Mr.  de  Gimat,  and  two  aids-de 
camp  of  M.  de  la  Fayette,  who  arrived  some  time  before  me. 
We  were  all  acquainted,  very  happy  to  meet  together  and  to 
dine  at  our  ease,  when  a  justice  of  the  peace,  who  was  at 
Trenton  on  business,  and  a  captain  of  the  American  artillery, 
came  and  sat  down  to  table  with  us,  without  any  ceremony  ;  it 
being  the  custom  of  the  country  for  travellers,  when  they  meet 
at  the  hour  of  dinner,  to  dine  together.  The  dinner,  of  which 
I  did  the  honours,  was  excellent;  but  they  did  not  seem  to 
know  that  it  was  I  who  had  ordered  it.  There  was  wine  at 
table,  a  very  rare  and  dear  article  in  America ;  they  drank 
moderately  of  it,  and  rose  from  table  before  us.  I  had  given 
orders  that  the  dinner  should  be  charged  to  me ;  they  learnt 
this  on  going  out,  but  set  off  without  saying  a  word  to  me  on 
the  subject.  I  have  often  had  occasion  to  observe,  that  there 
is  more  of  ceremony  than  compliment  in  America.  All  their 
politeness  is  mere  form,  such  as  drinking  healths  to  the  com 
pany,  observing  ranks,  giving  up  the  right  hand,  &c.  But 
they  do  nothing  of  this  but  what  has  been  taught  them,  not  a. 
particle  of  it  is  the  result  of  sentiment;  in  a  word,  politeness 
here  is  like  religion  in  Italy,  every  thing  in  practice,  but  with 
out  any  principle. 

At  four  o'clock  I  set  out,  after  separating,  but  not  without 
regret,  from  the  good  Colonel  Moyland.  I  took  the  road  to 
Bristol,  crossing  the  river  three  miles  below  Trenton.  Six* 
miles  from  thence  you  pass  a  wood  ;  and  then  approach  the 
Delaware,  which  you  do  not  quit  till  you  arrive  at  Bristol.  It 
was  night  when  I  got  to  this  town.  The  inn  I  alighted  at  is 
kept  by  a  Mr.  Benezet,  of  French  extraction,  and  of  a  very  re- 

*  This  gentleman  was  so  active  and  useful  in  the  revolution,  that  ho 
was  long  the  marked  object  of  tory  vengeance,  he  was  obliged,  for 
many  months,  to  shift  his  quarters  every  day,  and  under  the  necessity 
of  sleeping  every  night  in  a  different  place  ;  but  nothing  could  abate 
his  zeal,  he  never  quitted  his  government,  and  was  indefatigable  in  hi? 
exertions  to  animate  the  people. —  Trans. 


88  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

spectable  quaker  family ;  but  he  is  a  deserter  from  their  com 
munion.  He  is  of  the  church  of  England,  and  has  retained 
none  of  the  acknowledged  principles  of  his  brethren,  except 
that  of  making  you  pay  dearer  than  other  people :  in  other 
respects  his  inn  is  handsome,  the  windows  look  upon  the  Dela 
ware,  and  the  view  from  them  is  superb ;  for  this  river  is  nearly 
a  mile  broad,  and  flows  through  a  very  delightful  country.* 

I  left  Bristol  the  30th  of  November,  between  nine  and  ten 
in  the  morning,  and  arrived  at  Philadelphia  at  two.  .  The  road 
leading  to  this  city  is  very  wide  and  handsome ;  one  passes 
through  several  small  towns  or  villages,  nor  can  one  go  five 
hundred  paces  without  seeing  beautiful  country  houses.  As 
you  advance  you  find  a  richer  and  better  cultivated  country, 
with  a  great  number  of  orchards  and  pastures ;  every  thing,  in 
short,  answers  the  neighbourhood  of  a  large  town,  and  this 
road  is  not  unlike  those  round  London.  Four  miles  from  Bris 
tol  you  pass  the  creek  of  Neshaminy  over  a  ferry.  It  is  pretty 
large,  and  runs  in  such  a  direction  as  to  form  a  sort  of  penin 
sula  of  the  country  between  it  and  the  Delaware.  It  had 
struck  me  from  the  view  of  the  country,  and  from  inspecting 
the  chart,  that  on  the  retreat  of  Clinton,  General  Washington 
might  have  passed  the  sources  of  this  river,  and  marched  along 
it  towards  the  Delaware.  It  would  have  covered  his  right  flank, 
and,  by  this  precaution,  he  would  have  been  at  liberty  to  have 
approached  the  Delaware,  and  to  have  crossed  it  as  soon  as 
Clinton.  Mr.  de  Gimat,  to  whom  I  made  this  observation, 
answered  me,  that  General  Washington  never  being  sure  of 
the  moment  when  the  English  would  evacuate  Philadelphia, 
was  afraid  of  quitting  Lancaster,  where  he  had  all  his  maga 
zines.  The  town  of  Frankfort,  which  is  about  fifteen  miles 
from  Bristol,  and  five  from  Philadelphia,  is  pretty  considerable. 
A  creek  runs  in  the  front  of  this  town,  over  which  are  two 
stone  bridges ;  for  it  divides  itself  into  two  branches,  one  of 
which  appeared  to  me  to  be  artificial,  and  destined  to  turn  a 
great  number  of  mills,  that  furnish  Philadelphia  with  flour. 
These  mills,  so  necessary  for  the  subsistence  of  the  two  armies, 
made  the  town  of  Frankfort  for  a  long  time  an  object  of  con 
tention,  which  brought  on  several  skirmishes ;  but  the  position 
is  such  as  to  be  advantageous  to  neither  party,  for  the  river 


*  This  landlord,  like  his  brethren  at  Richmond  and  SJiooter's-hii], 
makes  his  guests  pay  for  the  prospect,  and  he  has  the  same  tempta 
tions  ;  the  ride  from  Philadelphia  here  on  parties  of  pleasure  being 
very  common  in  summer,  and  the  situation  of  his  house  on  the  great 
road  to  the  Jerseys,  and  the  northward,  always  ensuring  him  a  number 
of  travellers. —  Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH  AMERICA.       W 

runs  in  a  bottom,  and  the  ground  is  of  an  equal  elevation  on 
both  sides. 

The  nearer  you  approach  to  Philadelphia,  the  more  you 
discover  the  traces  of  the  war.  The  ruins  of  houses  destroyed, 
or  burnt,  are  the  monuments  the  English  have  left  behind 
them;  but  these  ruins  present  only  the  image  of  a  transient 
misfortune,  and  not  that  of  long  adversity.  By  the  side  of 
these  ruined  edifices,  those  which  still  exist  proclaim  prosperity 
and  abundance.  You  imagine  you  see  the  country  after  a 
storm,  some  trees  are  overthrown,  but  the  others  are  still 
clothed  with  flowers  and  verdure.  Before  you  enter  Phila 
delphia,  you  traverse  the  lines  thrown  up  by  the  English  in  the 
winter  of  1777 — 8;  they  are  still  discoverable  in  many  places. 
The  part  of  the  lines  I  now  saw,  is  that  of  the  right,  the  flank  of 
which  is  supported  by  a  large  redoubt,  or  square  battery, 
which  commands  also  the  river.  Some  parts  of  the  parapet 
have  been  constructed  with  an  elegance  which  increases 
labour,  more  than  it  fortifies  the  work  :  they  are  made  in  the 
form  of  a  saw,  that  is  to  say,  composed  of  a  series  of  small 
redans,  each  of  which  is  capable  only  of  containing  three  men. 
As  soon  as  I  had  passed  these  lines,  my  eye  was  struck  with 
several  large  buildings;  the  two  principal  were  a  range  of  bar 
racks  constructed  by  the  English,  and  a  large  hospital  lately 
built  at  the  expense  of  the  quakers.  Insensibly  I  found  myself 
in  the  town,  and  after  following  three  or  four  very  wide  streets, 
perfectly  straight,  I  arrived  at  the  gate  of  M.  le  Chevalier  de 
la  Luzerne. 

It  was  just  twenty  days  since  I  left  Newport,  during  which 
time  I  had  only  stayed  one  at  Voluntown,  and  three  at  the 
American  army.  I  was  not  sorry  therefore  to  get  into  quarters 
of  refreshment,  and  could  not  desire  any  more  agreeable  than 
the  house  of  the  Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne.  *-^I  had  a  great  deal 
of  time  to  converse  with  him  before  dinner  ;  for  at  Philadel 
phia,  as  in  London,  it  is  the  custom  to  dine  at  five,  and 
frequently  at  six.  I  should  have  liked  it  as  well  had  the  com 
pany  been  not  so  numerous,  as  to  oblige  me  to  make  acquaint 
ance  with  a  part  of  the  town  ;  but  our  minister  maintains  a 
considerable  state,  and  gives  frequently  great  dinners,  so  that 
it  is  difficult  not  to  fall  into  this  sort  of  ambuscade.  The 
guests,  whose  names  I  recollect,  were  Mr.  Governeur  Morris,* 


*  This  gentleman  lost  his  leg  by  a  fall  from  a  phaeton.  He  is  a 
man  of  exquisite  wit,  and  an  excellent  understanding.  An  admirable 
companion  at  the  table,  and  the  toilet,  he  was  in  universal  request  : 
he  was  in  all  the  secrets  of  his  namesake  the  financier,  and  refined  in 
the  dark  history  of  political  intrigue.  Notwithstanding  his  misfortune, 
nature  did  not  form  him  for  inactivity. — Trans. 

12 


90  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

a  young  man  full  of  wit  and  vivacity,  but  unfortunately  maim 
ed,  having  lost  a  leg  by  accident.  His  friends  congratulated 
him  on  this  event,  saying,  that  now  he  would  wholly  dedicate 
himself  to  public  business.  Mr.  Powel,  a  man  of  considerable 
fortune,  without  taking  any  part  in  the  government,  his  attach 
ment  to  the  common  cause,  having  appeared  hitherto  rather 
equivocal.  Mr.  Pendleton,  Chief  Justice  of  South-Carolina,  a 
remarkably  tall  man,  with  a  very  distinguished  countenance  ; 
he  had  the  courage  to  hang  three  tories  at  Charleston,  a  few 
days  before  the  surrender  of  the  town,  and  was  accordingly  in 
great  danger  of  losing  his  life,  had  he  not  escaped  out  of  the 
hands  of  the  English,  though  comprised  in  the  capitulation. 
Colonel  Laurens,  son  of  Mr.  Laurens,  late  President  of  Con 
gress,  and  now  a  prisoner  in  the  tower  of  London ;  he  speaks 
very  good  French,  which  is  not  surprising  as  he  was  educated 
at  Geneva ;  but  it  is  to  his  honour,  that  being  married  in  Lon 
don,  he  should  quit  England  to  serve  America ;  he  has  distin 
guished  himself  on  several  occasions,  particularly  at  German- 
town  where  he  was  wounded.*  Mr.  White,  Chaplain  to 


*  Among  the  numerous  traits  that  might  be  cited  to  do  honour  to 
this  illustrious  young  man,  so  prematurely,  and  unfortunately  lost  to  his- 
family  and  his  country,  the  translator  has  selected  the  following ;  ex 
tracted  from  the  journals  of  Congress. 

Thursday,  November  5,  1778. 

Resolved,  "  That  John  Laurens,  Esq.  aid-de-camp  to  General 
Washington,  be  presented  with  a  continental  commission  of  Lieutenant- 
Colonel,  in  testimony  of  the  sense  which  Congress  entertain  of  his 
patriotic  and  spirited  services  as  a  volunteer  in  the  American  army, 
and  of  his  brave  conduct  in  several  actions,  particularly  in  that  of 
Rhode-Island  on  the  29th  of  August  last ;  and  that  General  Wash 
ington  be  directed,  whenever  an  opportunity  shall  offer,  to  give  Lieu 
tenant-Colonel  Laurens  command  agreeable  to  his  rank." 

Friday,  November  6,  1778. 

i{  A  letter  of  this  day  from  Lieutenant-Colonel  John  Laurens  was 
read,"  expressing  "  his  gratitude  for  the  unexpected  honour  which 
Congress  were  pleased  to  confer  on  him  by  the  resolutions  passed 
yesterday,  and  the  high  satisfaction  it  would  have  afforded  him,  could 
he  have  accepted  it  without  injuring  the  rights  of  the  officers  in  the 
line  of  the  army,  and  doing  an  evident  injustice  to  his  colleagues  in 
the  family  of  the  commander-in-chief :  that  having  been  a  spectator 
of  the  convulsions  occasioned  in  the  army  by  disputes  of  rank,  he 
holds  the  tranquillity  of  it  too  dear  to  be  instrumental  in  disturbing 
it ;  and  therefore  entreating  Congress  to  suppress  the  resolve  of  yes 
terday,  ordering  him  a  commission  of  Lieutenant-Colonel  ;  and  to 
accept  his  sincere  thanks  for  the  intended  honour."  Whereupon, 

Resolved,  That  Congress  highly  approve  the  disinterested  and 
patriotic  principles  upon  which  Lieutenant-Colonel  Laurens  has 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AM  ERIC  A.  01 

Congress,  a  handsome  man,  and  of  a  mild  and  tolerant  character.* 
General  Mifflin,f  whose  talents  have  shone  alike  in  war  and 
politics ;  he  has  been  Quarter-Master-General  of  the  army ; 
but  quitted  that  place  on  account  of  some  preference  shown  to 
to  General  Greene.  Don  Francesco,  Charge  des  Affaires  of 
Spain  :  and  I  believe  that  is  all  that  can  be  said  of  him:  M.  de 
Ternan,  a  French  officer  in  the  service  of  America ;  he  had 
been  employed  in  some  commissions  in  America,  and  after 
executing  them,  he  took  to  the  profession  of  arms ;  he  is  a 
young  man  of  great  wit  and  talents  ;  he  draws  well,  and  speaks 
English  like  his  own  language ;  he  was  made  prisoner  at 
Charleston  :J  the  last  whose  name  I  recollect  is  Colonel 
Armand,  that  is,  M.  de  la  Rouerie,  nephew  of  M.  de  la 
Belinage.  He  was  as  celebrated  in  France  for  his  passion  for 

Mademoiselle  B ,  as  he  is  in  America  for  his  courage  and 

capacity.  His  family  having  compelled  him  to  abandon  an 
attachment  the  consequences  of  which  they  dreaded,  he  Buried 
himself  in  a  celebrated  and  profound  retirement,  (the  monas- 


cleclined  to  accept  the  promotion  conferred  on  him  by  Congress. — 
Trans.  * 

*  Mr.  White  is  the  Clergyman  of  St.  Peter's  church,  and  brother 
to  Mrs.  Morris,  the  financier's  lady. —  Trans. 

t  I  had  the  happiness  of  enjoying  the  particular  acquaintance  of  the 
General.  He  is  a  smart,  sensible,  active,  and  agreeable  little  man. 
I  never  saw  him  without  thinking  of  Garrick ;  he  is  about  the  same 
size  and  figure,  and  his  countenance  sparkles  with  significance  and 
expression.  To  him  and  his  brother  I  am  indebted  for  the  most  hos 
pitable  reception,  and  continued  civilities  and  attention  ;  and  the 
General,  besides  showing  me  on  the  spot,  the  whole  manoeuvres  of 
Germantown,  and  the  proceedings  on  the  Marquis  de  la  Fayette's 
expedition  over  the  Schuylkill,  furnished  me  with  many  interesting 
particulars  respecting  the  conduct  of  the  war.  I  knew  there  was  a 
disgust,  and  the  cause  of  it,  but  all  his  narratives  seemed  to  be  those 
of  a  man  of  honour,  unmixed  with  personal  considerations.  On 
signifying  my  intention  of  making  a  tour  into  the  interior  parts  of 
Pennsylvania,  he  was  so  good  as  to  give  me  the  following  letter  of 
introduction,  to  his  friend  Colonel  Patton,  in  case  I  passed  by  his 
neighbourhood.  I  have  preserved  it  as  characteristic  at  once  of  his 
own  frankness,  and  American  hospitality. 

Dear  Patton — Mr. ,  my  particular  friend,  will  favour  you 

with  a  visit  at  the  Spring.     I  have  assured  him  that  he  will  meet  a 
hearty  welcome.  Yours, 

THO.  MIFFLIN. 

Philadelphia,  3d  May,  1782. 

|  He  is  at  present  a  Colonel  in  the  service  of  Holland,  in  the  legio'ji 
of  Maillebois, 


lt>  TRAVELS  LN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

tery  of  La  Trappe.  T.)  but  he  soon  quitted  it  for  America,* 
when  he  devoted  himself  to  a  more  glorious  abstinence,  and  to 
more  meritorious  mortifications.  His  character  is  gay,  his 
wit  agreeable,  and  nobody  would  wish  to  see  him  make  the 
vow  of  silence. 

Such  were  the  guests  with  whom  I  got  acquainted  ;  for  I  do 
not  speak  of  M.  de  Dannemours,  Consul  of  France,  at  Balti 
more,  M.  de  Marbois,  Secretary  of  the  embassy,  nor  of  the  fa 
mily  of  M.  de  la  Luzerne,  which  is  pretty  considerable.  The 
dinner  was  served  in  the  American,  or  if  you  will  in  the  English 
fashion  ;  consisting  of  two  courses,  one  comprehending  the 
entrees,  the  roast  meat,  and  the  warm  side  dishes  ;  the  other, 
the  sweet  pastry,  and  confectionary.  When  this  is  removed, 
the  cloth  is  taken  off,  and  apples,  nuts,  and  chestnuts  are 
served  :  it  is  then  that  healths  are  drank  ;  the  coffee  which 
comes  afterwards  serves  as  a  signal  to  rise  from  table.  These 
healths  or  toasts  as  I  have  already  observed,  have  no  incon 
venience,  and  only  serve  to  prolong  the  conversation,  which 
is  always  more  animated  at  the  end  of  the  repast  ;  they  oblige 
you  to  commit  no  excess,  wherein  they  greatly  differ  from  the 
German  healths,  and  from  those  we  still  give  in  our  garrisons 
and  provinces.  But  I  find  it  an  absurd,  and  truly  barbarous 
practice,  the  first  time  you  drink,  and  at  the  beginning  of  din 
ner,  to  call  out  successively  to  each  individual,  to  let  him  know 
you  drink  his  health.  The  actor  in  this  ridiculous  comedy  is 
sometimes  ready  to  die  with  thirst,  whilst  he  js  obliged  to  in 
quire  the  names,  or  catch  the  eyes  of  five  and  twenty  or  thirty 
persons,  and  the  unhappy  persons  to  whom  he  addresses  him 
self,  with  impatience,  for  it  is  certainly  not  possible  for  them 
to  bestow  a  very  great  attention  to  what  they  are  eating,  and 

*  M.  le  Marquis  dc  la  Rouerie  was  then  very  young  :  his  subse 
quent  conduct  has  proved,  that  nature,  in  giving  a  susceptible  and 
impassioned  mind,  has  not  made  him  a  present  likely  to  be  always  fatal 
to  him,  glory  and  honour  have  employed  all  its  activity  ;  and  it  is  an 
observation  which  merits  to  be  consigned  in  history,  as  well  as  in  this 
journal,  that  carrying  with  him,  as  he  did  to  America,  all  the  heroic 
courage,  and  romantic  notions  of  chivalry  of  the  ancient  French 
noblesse,  he  could  so  well  conform  to  republican  manners,  that  far 
from  availing  himself  of  his  birth,  he  would  only  make  himself  known 
by  his  Christian  name  :  hence  he  was  always  called  Colonel  Armand. 
He  commanded  a  legion  which  was  destroyed  in  Carolina,. at  the  bat 
tle  of  Camden,  and  in  the  remainder  of  that  unfortunate  campaign. 
In  1781,  he  went  to  France,  purchased  there  every  thing  necessary 
for  arming  and  equipping  a  new  legion,  and,  on  his  return  to  America, 
he  advanced  the  cost  of  them  to  Congress.  Before  the  peace  he  was 
advanced  to  the  rank  of  Brigadier-General. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  93 

what  is  said  to  them,  being  incessantly  called  to  on  the  right 
and  left,  or  pulled  by  the  sleeve  by  charitable  neighbours,  who 
are  so  kind  as  to  acquaint  them  with  the  politeness  they  are 
receiving.  The  most  civil  of  the  Americans  are  not  content 
with  this  general  call  ;  every  time  they  drink  they  make  par 
tial  ones,  for  example,  four  or  five  persons  at  a  time.  Another 
custom  completes  the  despair  of  poor  foreigners,  if  they  be 
ever  so  little  absent,  or  have  good  appetites  :  these  general 
and  partial  attacks  terminate  in  downright  duels.  They  call 
to  you  from  one  end  of  the  table  to  the  other ;  Sir,  will  you  per 
mit  me  to  drink  a  glass  of  wine  with  you  ?  This  proposal  always 
is  accepted,  and  does  not  admit  the  excuse  of  the  Great-Cousin, 
one  does  not  drink  without  being  acquainted.  The  bottle  is  then 
passed  to  you,  and  you  must  look  your  enemy  in  the  face,  for 
I  can  give  no  other  name  to  the  man  who  exercises  such  an 
empire  over  my  will  :  you  wait  till  he  likewise  has  poured  out 
his  wine,  and  taken  his  glass ;  you  then  drink  mournfully  with 
him,  as  a  recruit  imitates  the  corporal  in  his  exercise.  But  to 
do  justice  to  the  Americans,  they  themselves  •  feel  the  ridicule 
of  these  customs  borrowed  from  old  England,  and  since  laid 
aside  by  her.  They  purposed  to  the  Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne 
to  dispense  with  them,  knowing  that  his  example  would  have 
great  weight  ;  but  he  thought  proper  to  conform,  and  he  did 
right.  The  more  the  French  are  known  to  be  in  possession  of 
giving  their  customs  to  other  nations,  the  more  should  they 
avoid  the  appearance  of  changing  those  of  the  Americans. 
Happy  our  nation  if  her  ambassadors,  and  her  travellers,  had 
always  so  correct  an  understanding,  and  if  they  never  lost  sight 
of  this  observation,  that  of  all  men,  the  dancing  master  should 
have  the  most  negligent  air ! 

After  this  dinner,  which  I  may  possibly  have  spun  out  too 
long,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  country,  the  Chevalier  de 
la  Luzerne  took  me  to  make  visits  with  him.*  The  first  was 


*  The  conduct  of  the  Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne  in  America  justified 
every  idea  that  has  been  formed  of  the  superior  skill  and  address  of  the 
French  nation  on  embassies,  and  in  the  cabinet.  He  not  only  con 
formed  to  the  manners,  and  customs  of  the  country,  but  he  studied 
the  character  of  every  individual  of  the  least  importance.  He  rose 
early  in  the  morning,  and  watched  the  hour  that  best  suited  their  con 
venience,  to  wait  on  the  members  of  Congress,  and  the  leading  men  of 
state  ;  at  dinner  he  received  company  of  all  political  complexions,  ex 
cept  offensive  tories ;  his  afternoons  were  chiefly  employed  in  visiting 
the  ladies,  and  in  passing  from  one  house  to  another  ;  in  these  visits 
he  made  no  political  exceptions,  but  on  the  contrary,  paid  his  court 
particularly  to  the  ladies  in  the  suspected  families,  an  evidently  wise 
policy ;  in  this  class,  he  was  supposed  to  have  a  very  agreeable,  as 


94  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

to  Mr.  Reed,  President  of  the  State.  This  post  corresponds 
with  that  of  Governor  in  the  other  provinces,  but  without  the 
same  authority  ;  for  the  government  of  Pennsylvania  is  purely 
democratic,  consisting  only  of  a  General  Assembly,  or  House 
of  Commons,  who  name  an  executive  council,  composed  of 
twelve  members  possessing  very  limited  powers,  of  the  exercise 
of  which  they  are  obliged  to  give  an  account  to  the  Assembly, 
in  which  they  have  no  voice.  Mr.  Reed  has  been. a  general 
officer  in  the  American  army,  and  has  given  proofs  of  courage, 
having  had  a  horse  killed  under  him  in  a  skirmish  near  White- 


well  as  useful  acquaintance,  in  the  two  Miss  C -'s,  who  put  no 

restraint  upon  their  tongues,  but  were  well  informed  of  all  the  transac 
tions  of  their  party.  Wherever  he  could  not  himself  be  present,  Mr. 
Marbois,  and  Mr.  Ottaw,  the  Secretaries  were  distributed,  so  that  you 
could  not  make  an  afternoon's  visit  to  a  whig  or  tory  family  in  the  city, 
without  being  sure  to  meet  with  this  political  General  or  one  of  his 
aids-<fe  camp.  When  he  made  a  public  entertainment,  and  the  pre 
sence  of  the  tory  ladies  gave  offence  to  those  of  the  patriotic  party,  he 
always  pleaded  ignorance,  contrived  to  shift  the  blame  from  himself, 
and  throw  it  on  the  Secretaries,  who  were  left  to  fight  the  battle  in  the 
best  way  they  could  over  the  tea  table  ;  but  all  this  was  carried  on 
with  undescribable  address,  and  so  managed  as  to  keep  all  parties  in 
good  humour  with  him.  He  indulged  every  man's  peculiarities,  and 
bestowed  thepetites  attentions  on  all.  It  is  thus  the  French  maintain 
their  ascendency  in  the  cabinet,  which  is  worth  a  thousand  victories, 
and  their  superiority  in  the  Courts  of  Europe,  under  every  varied  form 
of  government,  from  Holland  to  Constantinople.  I  cannot  help  con 
trasting  with  this  policy,  an  instance  of  English  diplomatic  conduct. — 
A  very  respectable  senator  of  Sweden,  previous  to  the  revolution  in 
that  country,  told  me,  that  in  a  very  hard  struggle,  between  the  Eng 
lish  and  French  parties  in  the  senate,  on  some  leading  question,  the 
English  minister  applied  to  him  in  his  turn,  for  his  suffrage  ;  on  his 
starting  some  objection,  the  minister  turned  angry,  assumed  a  haughty 
tone,  and  observed  that  the  Swedes  did  not  know  their  true  interest, 
that  they  might  do  as  they  thought  proper,  that  England  was  the  only 
country  that  could  support  them,  and  left  him  much  out  of  humour  ; 
the  same  language  he  held  to  all  the  senators.  The  French  ambas 
sador,  on  the  contrary,  was  paying  his  court  to  each  senator,  in  his 
family,  distributing  favours  and  making  entertainments,  and  carried 
his  point  with  barely  insinuating,  what  would  be  agreeable  to  his 
Court.  Compare  this  anecdote  with  the  well  known  conduct  in  Hol 
land,  of  a  minister  mightily  extolled  for  his  wisdom  and  experience, 
Sir  Joseph  Yorke,  and  his  memorials,  before  the  late  fatal  breach  with 
that  country,  and  the  success  of  the  Duke  de  la  Vauguyon,  which  no 
thing  but  such  haughty,  ill-timed  language  could  have  so  rapidly  pro 
duced,  and  judge  whether  Sir  William  Temple  would  have  done  the 
same. — Tram. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  95 

marsh.  It  is  he,  whom  Governor  Johnstone  attempted  to  cor 
rupt  in  1778,  when  England  sent  Commissioners  to  treat  with 
Congress  ;  but  this  attempt  was  confined  to  some  insinuations, 
entrusted  to  Mrs.  Ferguson.  Mr.  Reed,  who  is  a  sensible  man, 
rather  of  an  intriguing  character,  and  above  all  eager  of  popu 
lar  favour,  made  a  great  clamour,  and  published,  and  exagge 
rated  the  offers  that  were  made  him.  The  complaints  of  Mrs. 
Ferguson,  who  found  herself  committed  in  this  affair,  a  public 
declaration  of  Governor  Johnstone,  whose  object  was  to  deny 
the  facts,  but  which  served  only  to  confirm  them  ;  various 
charges,  and  refutations,  printed  and  made  public,  produced 
no  other  effect  than  to  second  the  views  of  Mr.  Reed,  and  to 
make  him  attain  his  end,  of  playing  a  leading  part  in  the 
country.  Unfortunately  his  pretensions,  or  his  interest  led  him 
to  declare  himself  the  enemy  of  Dr.  Franklin.*  When  I  was 
at  Philadelphia,  it  was  no  less  than  matter  of  question  to  recall 
that  respectable  man  ;  but  the  French  party,  or  that  of  Gene 
ral  Washington,  or  to  express  it  still  better  the  really  patriotic 
party  prevailed,  and  the  matter  finished  by  sending  an  officer 
to  France  to  represent  the  wretched  state  of  the  army,  and  to 
ask  for  an  aid  of  clothes,  tents,  and  money,  of  which  it  stood  in 
much  need.  The  choice  fell  on  Colonel  Laurens.f 

*  I  make  no  doubt  that  the  M.  de  Chastellux  is  correct  in  this  as 
sertion,  but  thus  much  I  can  say  from  personal  knowledge,  that  Mr. 
Reed  is  one  of  the  warmest  and  most  strenuous  supporters  of  the  pre 
sent  democratic  constitution  of  Pennsylvania,  the  work  of  Dr.  Frank 
lin,  and  to  subvert  which  almost  all  the  personal  enemies  of  Mr.  Reed 
have  been  labouring  for  some  years  past.  In  Philadelphia,  in  1782, 
the  parties  of  constitutionalists,  and  anti-constitutionalists  ran  so  high, 
as  to  occasion  frequent  personal  quarrels.  Another  fact  is  well  known 
to  many  persons  in  Europe,  and  to  every  body  in  America,  that  the 
attack  on  Dr.  Franklin  came  from  a  much  more  powerful  and  intriguing 
quarter  than  that  of  Mr.  Reed,  who  never  was  of  any  weight  in  Congress, 
Mr.  Reed  too  was  much  attached  to  General  Washington,  whom  the 
opposers  of  Dr.  Franklin's  constitution  of  Pennsylvania,  affected  to 
hold  in  no  very  high  respect.  I  never  exchanged  a  word  with  Mr. 
Reed,  my  only  wish  is  to  ascertain  the  truth. —  Trans. 

t  Colonel  Laurens  obtained  six  millions  of  livres  from  the  French 
court,  the  greatest  part  of  which  was  expended  in  clothing  and  neces 
saries  for  the  American  army,  on  his  arrival  in  Europe  in  the  spring  of 
1781.  Mr.  Gillon,  who  had  the  commission  of  commodore  from  the 
state  of  Carolina,  and  had  been  sent  over  to  purchase  three  frigates  for 
that  state,  came  immediately  from  Holland  to  Paris,  and  prevailed  on 
Colonel  Laurens,  who  was  of  the  same  state,  to  purchase  a  large  quan 
tity  of  the  clothing  at  Amsterdam,  a  measure  highly  offensive  to  the 
French  court,  to  be  shipped  on  board  his  frigate  the  South-Carolina, 
which  was  to  sail  immediately,  and  besides  her  great  force,  carrying 


9(5  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

Mr.  Reed  has  a  handsome  house  arranged,  and  furnished  in 
the  English  style.  I  found  there  Mrs.  Washington,  who  had 
just  arrived  from  Virginia,  and  was  going  to  stay  with  her  hus 
band,  as  she  does  at  the  end  of  every  campaign.  She  is  about 
forty,  or  five  and  forty,  rather  plump,  but  fresh,  and  with  an 
agreeable  face.*  After  passing  a  quarter  of  an  hour  at  Mr. 
Reed's,  we  waited  on  Mr.  Huntington,  president  of  Congress : 

twenty-eight  forty-two  pounders,  and  twelve  eighteens,  had  the  legion 
of  Luxembourg  on  board.  The  purchase  was  made  accordingly  at 
Amsterdam,  the  goods  shipped  on  board  the  frigate,  by  which  many 
private  purposes  were  answered  to  Mr.  Gillon,  who,  on  some  pretext 
however,  after  many  month's  delay,  and  the  Colonel's  return,  removed 
the  goods  from  the  frigate,  and  shipped  them  on  board  two  Dutch  ves 
sels  to  be  taken  under  his  convoy;  but  to  these  he  soon  gave  the  slip, 
leaving  them  in  September  in  the  Texel,  without  saying  a  word  of  his 
intention  ;  finding  he  did  not  return,  they  were  conveyed  back  in  October 
to  Amsterdam,  and  relanded  at  an  enormous  expense  to  America,  and 
to  the  great  loss  of  the  army,  for  whom  they  were  intended  as  a  sup 
ply  that  winter ;  yet,  on  his  return,  he  had  address  enough  to  elude 
every  inquiry  into  this  very  extraordinary  transaction,  to  which  escape, 
the  universal  esteem  in  which  Mrs.  Gillon,  his  wife,  was  held  by  every 
person  in  Carolina,  contributed  not  a  little.  It  may  here  be  proper 
to  correct  an  error  which  has  slipped  into  all  the  English  public  prints 
of  the  day,  and  particularly  into  Dodsley's  Annual  Register,  on  the 
subject  of  the  frigate,  the  South-Carolina.  This  frigate  is  mentioned 
in  the  list  of  Admiral  Zoutman's  fleet  in  the  engagement  off  the  Dog 
ger's  Bank  in  August,  1781.  The  translator  was  then  at  the  Texel, 
saw  the  Dutch  fleet  sail,  and  return  after  the  engagement ;  during  that 
interval  had  the  frigate  lying  at  anchor  before  his  eyes,  and  was  close 
to  her,  on  board  another  vessel  off  the  end  of  the  Haaks,  a  great 
shoal  at  the  mouth  of  the  Texel,  when  the  Dutch  fleet  entered  in  the 
most  shattered  condition.  Mr.  Gillon  is  himself  a  native  of  Rotter 
dam,  but  was  on  very  bad  terms  with  all  the  officers  of  the  Dutch 
fleet,  and  indeed  with  almost  all  his  countrymen. —  Trans. 

*  I  had  the  pleasure  of  passing  a  clay  or  two  with  Mrs.  Washing 
ton,  at  the  general's  house  in  Virginia,  where  she  appeared  to  me  to  be 
one  of  the  best  women  in  the  world,  and  beloved  by  all  about  her.  She 
has  no  family  by  the  general,  but  was  surrounded  by  her  grand-child 
ren,  and  Mrs.  Custis,  her  son's  widow.  The  family  were  then  in 
mourning  for  Mr.  Custis,  her  son  by  a  former  marriage,  whose  pre 
mature  death  was  subject  of  public  and  private  regret.  He  was 
brought  up  by  the  general  as  his  own  son,  and  formed  himself  success 
fully  on  his  model.  He  succeeded  him  as  representative  for  Fairfax 
county,  and  promised  to  be  a  very  distinguished  member  of  society, 
but  having  goue  down  to  Yorktown,  after  the  capture  of  Cornvvallis, 
to  view  the  works,  he  caught  a  malignant  fever  at  one  of  the  hospitals, 
and  was  rapidly  carried  off.  The  general  was  uncommonly  affected 
at  his  death,  insomuch  that  many  of  his  friends  imagined  they  percei- 


TKAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  1)7 

We  found  him  in  his  cabinet,  lighted  by  a  single  candle. 
This  simplicity  reminded  me  of  that  of  the  Fabricius  and  the 
Philopemens.  Mr.  Huntington  is  an  upright  man,  who  espouses 
no  party,  and  may  be  relied  on.  He  is  a  native  of  Connecti 
cut,  and  was  delegate  for  that  state,  when  chosen  president. 

My  day  having  been  sufficiently  taken  up,  the  Chevalier  de 
la  Luzerne,  conducted  me  to  the  house  where  he  had  ordered 
lodgings  to  be  prepared  for  me.  It  was  at  the  Spanish  minis 
ter's,  where  there  were  several  vacant  apartments ;  for  M.  Mi- 
rale,  who  had  occupied  it,  died  a  year  before  at  Morristown. 
His  secretary  has  remained  charge  des  affaires,  master  of  the 
house,  and  well  contented  to  enjoy  the  incqrico,  which  includes 
in  it,  besides  the  correspondence,  a  table  maintained  at  the 
expense  of  the  king  of  Spain.  The  Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne, 
though  very  well,  and  agreeably  lodged,  had  no  apartments  to 
spare  ;*  he  made  them,  however,  contrive  me  one  the  next  day, 
which  contributed  greatly  to  my  happiness  during  my  stay  at 
Philadelphia,  for  I  was  situated  exactly  between  M.  de  Mar- 
bois  and  him,  and  able  to  converse  with  them  every  moment  of 
the  day. 

That  of  the  22d  commenced  like  every  other  day  in  America, 
by  a  great  breakfast.  As  the  dinners  are  very  late  at  the  mi 
nister's,  a  few  loins  of  veal,  some  legs  of  mutton,  and  other 
trifles  of  that  kind  are  always  introduced  among  the  tea-cups, 


ved  some  change  in  his  equanimity  of  temper,  subsequent  to  that 
event.  It  is  certain  that  they  were  upon  terms  of  the  most  affection 
ate  and  manly  friendship. —  Trans. 

*  The  French  Ambassador's  was  a  very  handsome  house,  hired  of 
Mr.  John  Dickinson,  and  very  near  the  seat  of  Congress.  In  one  of 
those  dreadful  storms  of  thunder  with  which  America  is  so  frequently 
Visited  in  the  summer  months,  this  house,  though  lower  than  the 
State-house,  and  that  of  his  neighbour,  Mrs.  Allen,  was  struck  by 
lightning,  and  a  French  officer,  sitting  alone  in  one.  of  the  rooms, 
burnt  to  death  ;  the  lightning. had  set  fire  to  his  clothes,  and  thrown 
him  into  a  fainting  fit,  during  which,  part  of  his  body  was  miserably 
scorched,  and  his  private  parts  reduced  to  ashes,  so  that  he  survived 
but  a  few  hours  ;  but  the  principal  ravage  was  in  a  chamber  contain 
ing  an  iron  bedstead,  in  which  the  Ambassador  himself  slept,  by  way 
of  security  from  the  bugs  ;  in  that  room,  large  blocks  of  marble  were 
rent  in  pieces,  and  torn  from  the  chimney-piece  ;  its  effects,  in  short, 
were  so  singular  in  many  respects,  and  in  some  so  contrary  to  recei 
ved  opinions,  that  Mr.  Arthur  Lee,  and  Dr.  Rush,  thought  proper  to 
publish  a  very  long  arid  curious  account  of  it ;  and  indeed,  as  far  as  I 
am  able  to  judge,  this  stroke  presented  many  new  phenomena  of 
electricity.  It  may  be  proper  to  add,  that  this  was  the  only  house  in 
the  neighbourhood  unprovided  with  an  electrical  apparatus. —  Tran*. 

13 


98  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

and  are  sure  of  meeting  a  hearty  welcome.  After  this  slight 
repast,  which  only  lasted  an  hour  and  a  half,  we  went  to  visit 
the  ladies,  agreeable  to  the  Philadelphia  custom,  where  the 
morning  is  the  most  proper  hour  for  paying  visits.  We  began 
by  Mrs.  Bache ;  she  merited  all  the  anxiety  we  had  to  see  her, 
for  she  is  the  daughter  of  Mr.  Franklin.  Simple  in  her  man 
ners,  like  her  respectable  father,  she  possesses  his  benevolence. 
She  conducted  us  into  a  room  filled  with  work,  lately  finished 
by  the  ladies  of  Philadelphia.  This  work  consisted  neither  of 
embroidered  tambour  waistcoats,  nor  net  work  edging,  nor  of 
gold  and  silver  brocade — it  was  a  quantity  of  shirts  for  the 
soldiers  of  Pennsylvania.  The  ladies  bought  the  linen  from 
their  own  private  purses,  and  took  a  pleasure  in  cutting  them 
out,  and  sewing  them  themselves.  On  each  shirt  was  the  name 
©f  the  married',  or  unmarried  lady  who  made  it,  and  they 
amounted  to  2200.  Here  is  the  place,  no  doubt,  to  make  a 
very  moral,  but  very  trivial  reflection  on  the  difference  between 
our  manners  and  those  of  America ;  but  as  for  myself,  I  am  of 
opinion  that,  on  a  similar  occasion,  our  French  women  would 
do  as  much,  and  I  even  venture  to  believe  that  such  works 
would  inspire  as  agreeable  verses  as  those  which  accompany 
the  annual  presents  of  cradles,  coaches,  houses,  castles,  &c. 
laboriously  and  awkwardly  brocaded.  It  must  be  allowed  that 
this  custom  is  an  abundant  source  of  most  ingenious  ideas ; 
but  their  harvest  is  past,  and  they  begin  to  be  exhausted.  But 
should  any  rigid  French  philosopher  be  disposed  to  censure 
French  manners,  I  would  not  advise  him  to  address  himself  to 

Mrs.  P- ,  whom  I  waited  upon  on  quitting  Mrs.  Bache. 

This  is  the  agreeable  woman  of  Philadelphia ;  her  taste  is  as 
delicate  as  her  health :  an  enthusiast  to  excess  for  all  the  French 
fashions,  she  only  waits  for  the  termination  of  this  little  revo 
lution,  to  effect  a  still  greater  one  in  the  manners  of  her 
country. 

After  paying  due  homage  to  this  admirable  female  pa 
triot,  I  hurried  to  make  acquaintance  with  Mr.  Morris. 
He  is  a  very  rich  merchant,  and  consequently  a  man  of 
every  country,  for  commerce  bears  every  where  the  same  cha 
racter.  Under  monarchies  it  is  free ;  it  is  an  egotist  in  repub 
lics  ;  a  stranger,  or  if  you  will,  a  citizen  of  the  universe,  it 
excludes  alike  the  virtues  and  the  prejudices  that  stand  in  the 
way  of  its  interest.  It  is  scarcely  to  be  credited,  that  amidst 
the  disasters  of  America,  Mr.  Morris,  the  inhabitant  of  a  town 
just  emancipated  from  the  hands  of  the  English,  should  pos 
sess  a  fortune  of  eight  millions,  (between  3  and  400,000/.  ster 
ling.)  It  is,  however,  in  the  most  critical  times  that  great  for 
tunes  are  acquired.  The  fortunate  return  of  several  ships,  the 
still  more  successful  cruises  of  his  privateers,  have  increased 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  90 

his  riches  beyond  his  expectations,  if  not  beyond  his  wishes. 
He  is,  in  fact,  so  accustomed  to  the  success  of  his  privateers, 
that  when  he  is  observed  on  a  Sunday  to  be  more  serious  than 
usual,  the  conclusion  is,  that  no  prize  has  arrived  in  the  pre 
ceding  week.*  This  flourishing  state  of  commerce,  at  Phila 
delphia,  as  well  as  in  Massachusetts  bay,  is  entirely  owing  t0 
the  arrival  of  the  French  squadron. f  The  English  have 

*  Mr.  Morris  has  certainly  enriched  himself  greatly  by  the  war,  but 
the  house  of  Witting  <fy  Morris  did  a  great  deal  of  business,  and  was 
well  known  in  all  the  considerable  trading  towns  of  Europe,  previous 
to  that  period.  Mr.  Morris  had  various  other  means  of  acquiring- 
wealth  besides  privateering ;  among  others,  by  his  own  interest,  and 
his  connexions  with  Mr.  Holker,  then  Consul-General  of  France,  at 
Philadelphia,  he  frequently  obtained  exclusive  permissions  to  ship  car 
goes  of  flour,  &/c.  in  the  time  of  general  embargoes,  by  which  he  gained 
immense  profits.  His  situation  gave  him  many  similar  opportunities, 
of  which  his  capital,  his  credit,  and  abilities  always  enabled  him  to  take 
advantage. — On  the  strength  of  his  office,  as  Financier-General,  he 
circulated  his  own  notes  of  Robert  Morris,  as  cash,  throughout  the 
continent,  and  even  had  the  address  to  get  some  assemblies,  that  of 
Virginia  in  particular,  to  pass  acts  to  make  them  current  in  payment  of 
taxes.  What  purchases  of  tobacco,  what  profits  of  every  kind  might 
not  a  man  of  Mr.  Morris'  abilities  make  with  such  powerful  advanta 
ges  ?  The  house  the  Marquis  speaks  of,  in  which  Mr.  Morris,  lives, 
belonged  formerly  to  Mr.  Richard  Perm;  the  Financier  has  made 
great  additions  to  it,  and  is  the  first  who  has  introduced  the  luxury  of 
hot-houses,  and  ice-houses  on  the  continent.-  He  has  likewise  purcha 
sed  the  elegant  country  house  formerly  occupied  by  the  traitor,  Arnold, 
nor  is  his  luxury  to  be  outdone  by  any  commercial  voluptuary  of  Lon 
don.  This  gentleman  is  a  native  of  Manchester  in  England,  is  at  the 
head  of  the  aristocratical  party  in  Pennsylvania,  arid  has  eventually  been 
instrumental  in  the  revolution;  in  private  life  he  is  much  esteemed, 
by  a  very  numerous  acquaintance. —  Trans. 

I  Very  large  fortunes  were  made  from  nothing  during  this  period, 
but  this  state  of  prosperity  was  not  of  long  duration  ;  in  1781  and  1782, 
so  numerous  were  the  King's  cruisers,  and  privateers,  that  frequently 
not  one  vessel  out  of  seven  that  left  the  Delaware  escaped  their  vigi 
lance.  The  profits  on  successful  voyages  were  enormous,  but  it  was  no 
uncommon  thing  to  see  a  man  one  day  worth  forty  or  fifty  thousand 
pounds,  and  the  next  reduced  to  nothing ;  indeed  these  rapid  transi 
tions  were  so  frequent,  that  they  almost  ceased  to  affect  either  the 
comfort  or  the  credit  of  the  individual. — Flour  shipped  at  Philadelphia, 
cost  Jive  dollars,  and  produced  from  twenty-eight  to  thirty-four  dollars 
a  barrel  in  specie  at  the  Havana,  which  is  generally  but  a  short  run, 
and  the  arrival  of  one  European  cargo,  out  of  three,  amply  repaid  the 
merchant,  so  that  notwithstanding  the  numerous  captures,  the  stocks 
were  continually  full  of  new  vessels  to  supply  such  as  were  lost  or 
taken.  In  short,  without  having  been  upon  tho  spot  at  that  period,  it 


100  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

abandoned  all  their  cruises,  to  block  it  up  at  Newport,  and  in 
that  they  have  succeeded  ill,  for  they  have  not  taken  a  single 
sloop  coming  to  Rhode-Island  or  Providence.     Mr.  Morris  is 
a  large  man,  very  simple  in  his  manners :  but  his  mind  is  sub 
tle  and  acute,  his  head  perfectly  well  organized,  and  he  is  as 
well  versed  in  public  affairs  as  in  his  own.     He  was  a  member 
of  Congress  in  1776,  and  ought  to  be  reckoned  among  those 
personages  who  have  had  the  greatest  influence  in  the  revolu 
tion  of  America.     He  is  the  friend  of  Dr.  Franklin,  and  the 
decided  enemy  of  Mr.  Reed.     His  house  is  handsome,  resem 
bling  perfectly  the  houses  in  London;  he  lives  there  without 
ostentation,  but  not  without  expense,  for  he  spares  nothing 
which  can  contribute  to  his  happiness,  and  that  of  Mrs.  Mor 
ris,  to  whom  he  is  much  attached.     A  zealous  republican,  and 
an  epicurean  philosopher,  he  has  always  played  a  distinguish 
ed  part  at  table  and  in  business.*     I  have  already  mentioned 
Mr.  Powel,  at  present  I  must  speak  of  his  wife ;  and  indeed  it 
would  be  difficult  to  separate  from  each  other,  two  persons, 
who  for  twenty  years  have  lived  together  in  the  strictest  union  : 
I  shall  not  say  as  man  and  wife,  which  would  not  convey  the 
idea  of  perfect  equality  in  America,  but  as  two  friends,  hap 
pily  matched  in  point  of  understanding,  taste,  and  informa 
tion.     Mr.  Powel,  as  I  have  before  said,  has  travelled  in  Eu 
rope,  and  returned  with  a  taste  for  the  fine  arts ;  his  house  is 
adorned  with  the  most  valuable  prints,  and  good  copies  of  se 
veral  of  the  Italian  masters.     Mrs.  Powel  has  not  travelled, 
but  she  has  read  a  great  deal,  and  profitably  :  it  would  be  un 
just,  perhaps,  to  say,  that  in  this  she  differs  from  the  greatest 
part  of  the  American  ladies ;  but  what  distinguishes  her  the 
most  is,  her  taste  for  conversation,  and  the  truly  European  use 
she  knows  how  to  make  of  her  understanding  and  informa 
tion. 

I  fear  my  readers  (if  ever  I  have  any)  may  make  this  natu 
ral  reflection,  that  visits  are  very  tiresome  pieces  of  business 

is  impossible  to  conceive  the  activity  and  perseverance  of  the  Ameri 
cans.  There  was  scarcely  a  captain,  or  even  common  sailor,  who  had 
not  been  taken  six  or  seven  times  during  the  war,  nor  a  merchant  who 
had  not  been,  more  than  once,  rich  and  ruined. —  Trans. 

*  Mr.  Morris  has  since  filled  for  three  years  the  post  of  Financier, 
or  Comptroller-General,  which  was  created  for  him.  He  had  for  his 
colleague  Mr.  Govcrncur  Morris,  whom  I  have  already  mentioned,  and 
who  has  amply  justified  the  opinion  entertained  of  his  talents.  It  may 
safely  be  asserted,  that  Europe  affords  few  examples  of  a  perspicuity, 
and  a  facility  of  understanding  equal  to  his,  which  adapts  itself  with 
the  same  success  to  business,  to  letters,  and  to  sciences. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  101 

every  where,  and  as  it  is  impossible  to  escape  the  epigram 
matic  turn  of  the  French,  without  making  great  haste,  I  am 
determined  to  get  the  start.  I  apprise  them,  however,  that  I 
acquit  them  of  a  long  dinner,  which  the  Chevalier  de  la  Lu- 
zerne  gave  that  day  to  the  southern  delegates.  I  shall  have 
occasion  to  speak  elsewhere  of  some  of  these  delegates,  and 
as  for  those  who  will  not  give  me  that  opportunity,  they  de 
serve  to  be  passed  over  in  silence. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


GERMANTOWN PHILADELPHIA BRANDYWINE. 

FEARFUL  lest  the  pleasures  of  Capua  should  make  me  forget 
the  campaigns  of  Hannibal,  and  of  Fabius,  I  determined  to  get 
on  horseback,  on  the  second  of  December,  to  visit  the  field  of 
battle  of  Germantown.  Many  recollect,  that  after  the  defeat  of 
Brandy  wine,  in  1777,  the  American  army,  not  thinking  proper 
to  defend  Philadelphia,  retired  to  the  upper  Schuylkill,  whilst 
the  English  took  possession,  without  resistance,  of  the  capital 
of  Pennsylvania.  Elated  with  their  success,  and  full  of  that 
confidence  which  has  invariably  deceived  them,  they  had 
divided  and  dispersed  their  forces :  the  greatest  part  of  their 
troops  encamped  upon  the  Schuylkill,  four  miles  from  Philadel 
phia;  another  division  occupied  Germantown,  eight  miles  to 
the  northward  of  that  place,  and  they  sent  a  considerable 
detachment  to  Billingsport,  to  favour  tie  passage  of  their  fleet, 
which  was  making  fruitless  endeavours  to  get  up  the  Delaware. 
Thus  circumstanced,  General  Washington  thought  it  was  time 
to  remind  the  English  that  there  still  existed  an  American 
army.  One  is  at  a  loss  whether  most  to  extol  the  sage  intre 
pidity  of  the  chief,  or  the  resolution  displayed  by  his  army  in 
making  an  attack  on  the  same  troops,  whose  shock  they  were 
unable  to  sustain  a  month  before.  Germantown  is  a  long  town, 
or  village,  consisting  of  a  single  street,  not  unlike  La  Villitre, 
or  Vauginard,  near  Paris.  From  the  first  house,  at  the  south, 
to  the  last,  at  the  north  end  of  the  town,  it  is  near  two  miles 
and  a  half.  The  English  corps  which  occupied,  or  rather 
covered  it,  was  encamped  near  the  last  houses  to  the  north 
ward,  and  so  situated  as  that  the  street,  or  main  road  intersect 
ed  the  camp  at  right  angles.  This  body  might  amount  to  three 
or  four  thousand  men.  General  Washington,  who  occupied  a 
position  of  ten  miles  distance,*  on  Skippack  Creek,  left  his 


*  There  are  many  striking  differences  between  this  account,  and 
(hat  given  by  General  Howe  in  his  public  despatches,  in  his  own 
narrative  to  the  house  of  commons,  and  in  the  examination  of  his 
witnesses.  The  English  General  reports,  that  Washington's  camp 
near  Skippack  Creek,  from  whence  he  moved,  was  sixteen  miles  from 
Germantown — the  Marquis  says,  only  ten.  The  English  General 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  JO:J 

camp  towards  midnight,  marching  in  two  columns,  one  of 
which  was  to  turn  Germantown  on  the  eastward,  the  other  on 
the  left ;  two  brigades  of  the  right  column  were  ordered  to 
form  the  corps  de  reserve,  to  separate  themselves,  from  that 
column,  at  the  instant  of  the  attack,  and  follow  the  main  street 
of  Germantown.  A  very  thick  fog  came  on,  favourable  to  the 
march  of  the  enemy,  but  which  rendered  the  attack  more 
difficult,  as  it  became  impossible  to  concert  the  movements, 
and  extend  the  troops.  The  militia  marched  on  the  right  and 
left,  without  the  two  columns,  riot  being  committed  in  the 
affair,  and  always  skirting  the  woods,  on  the  Frankfort  side, 
as  well  as  on  that  of  the  Schuylkill.  General  Washington 
halted  a  moment  before  daylight,  at  a  cross  road,  distant  only 
half  a  mile  from  the  picket,  or  advanced  post  of  the  enemy. 
There  he  learnt  from  an  English  dragoon,  who  was  intox 
icated,  and  had  lost  his  way,  that  the  Billingsport  detachment 
was  returned.  This  unexpected  intelligence  did  not  change 
the  General's  project ;  he  continued  his  march  at  the  head  of 
the  right  column,  and  fell  upon  the  English  picket  who  were 
surprised,  put  to  rout,  and  driven  to  the  camp,  where  they 
brought  the  first  news  of  the  arrival  of  the  Americans.  The 
troops  flew  to  arms,  and  precipitately  fell  back,  leaving 
their  tents  standing,  and  abandoning  all  their  baggage. 
This  was  a  moment  not  to  be  lost,  and  French  troops 
would  certainly  have  availed  themselves  of  it,  nay  it  would 
have  been  difficult  to  prevent  them  either  from  pursuing 
the  enemy  too  far,  or  from  dispersing  to  plunder  the  camp. 
It  is  here  we  may  form  a  judgment  of  the  American  character. 
Perhaps  this  army,  notwithstandirg  the  slowness  of  its  ma- 
noauvres,  and  its  inexperience  in  war,  may^merit  the  praises  of 
Europeans.  General  Sullivan  who-  commanded  the  column 
on  the  right,  calmly  and  slowly  formed  the  three  brigades 

strongly  asserts,  that  this  affair  was  no  surprise,  (see  his  narrative,  and 
his  examination  of  Sir  George  Osborne ;)  the  Marquis  seems  to  be  well 
authorised  to  call  it  a  complete  surprise.  The  General  affirms  he  was 
prepared  for  it.  The  Marquis  proves,  nay,  the  English  General's 
letters  and  narrative  demonstrate  how  narrowly,  and  by  what  means 
his  army,  and  the  British  affairs  escaped  total  ruin.  The  General  says, 
^  The  enemy  retired  near  twenty  miles  to  Perkyoming  Creek,  and  are 
now  encamped  near  Skippack  Creek,  about  eighteen  miles  distance 
from  hence."  The  Marquis  asserts,  that  "  The  retreat  was  executed 
in  good  order,  that  General  Washington  took  an  excellent  position 
within/owr  miles  of  Germantown,  so  that,  on  the  evening  of  the  battle, 
he  was  six  miles  nearer  the  enemy  than  before."  How  shall  we 
reconcile  these  essential  contradictions,  which  ought  unquestionably 
to  be  discussed,  for  the  interest  of  truth,  and  the  benefit  of  history  ? — 
Trans. 


104  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

ahead ;  and  after  ranging  them  in  order  of  battle,  he  traversed 
the  English  camp,  without  a  single  soldier  stopping  for  plun 
der  :  he  advanced  in  this  manner,  leaving  the  houses  .on  thi; 
left,  and  driving  before  him  all  resistance  from  the  gardens 
and  inclosures:  he  penetrated  into  the  town  itself,  and  was 
some  time  engaged  with  the  troops  who  defended  a  small 
square  near  the  market. 

Whilst  every  thing  thus  succeeded  on  the  right,  General 
Washington,  at  the  head  of  the  reserve  was  expecting  to  see 
his  left  column  arrive,  and  pursued  his  march  by  the  main 
street.  But  a  fire  of  musketry,  which  proceeded  from  a  large 
house  within  pistol  shot  of  the  street,  suddenly  checked  the 
van  of  his  troops.  It  was  resolved  to  attack  this  house  ;  but 
cannon  were  necessary,  for  it  was  known  to  be  of  stone,  and 
could  not  therefore  be  set  fire  to.  Unfortunately  they  had 
only  six  pounders  t  the  Chevalier  Duplessiis-Mauduit,  brought 
two  pieces  near  another  house,  two  hundred  paces  from  the 
former.  This  cannonade  produced  no  effect,  it  penetrated 
the  walls,  but  did  not  beat  them  down.  The  Chevalier  de 
Mauduit,  full  of  that  ardour,  which,  at  the  age  of  sixteen, 
made  him  undertake  a  journey  into  Greece,  to  view  the  fields 
of  Platea  and  Thermopylts,  and  at  twenty  go  in  search  of  lau 
rels  in  America,  resolved  to  attack  by  main  force  this  house, 
which  he  was  unable  to  reduce  by  cannon.*  He  proposed  to 
Colonel  Laurens  to  take  with  him  some  determined  men,  and 
get  some  straw  and  hay  from  a  barn,  to  set  fire  to  the  princi- 


*  In  1 782  I  visited  and  passed  a  very  agreeable  day  at  this  celebrated 
stone-house,  so  bravely,  and  judiciously  defended  by  Colonel  Musgrove. 
and  saw  many  marks  of  cannon  and  musket  shot  in  the  walls,  doors, 
and  window  shutters,  besides  two  or  three  mutilated  statues  which 
stood  in  front  of  it.  It  is  a  plain  gentleman's  country-house,  with 
four  windows  in  front,  and  two  stories  high,  calculated  for  a  small 
family,  and  stands  single,  and  detached  from  every  other  building,  so 
that  defended  as  it  was  by  six  companies,  commanded  by  so  gallant 
an  officer,  it  was  calculated  to  make  a  long  resistance  against  every 
thing  but  heavy  cannon.  I  here  saw,  what  to  me  was  perfectly  new. 
but  in  this. perhaps  I  betray  my  ignorance  ;  a  cock,  though  surrounded 
by  hens,  in  frequent  copulation  with  a  duck:  Being  in  company  with 
ladies,  I  had  no  opportunity  of  inquiring  whether  there  was  any,  and 
what  sort  of  produce.  From  the  different  size  of  their  bodies,  the 
difference  of  their  organization,  and  the  mode  of  union,  I  could  'not 
help  considering  it  as  not  much  less  extraordinary  than  the  Brussels 
fable  of  the  Hen  and  Rabbit ;  but  in  this,  perhaps,  every  peasant  can 
set  me  right.  This  house  formerly  belonged  to  Mr.  Chew,  a  loyalist, 
and  was  purchased  by  Mr.  Blair  MacClenaghan ;  who,  from  a  very 
small  beginning,  has,  by  his  industry,  fairly  and  honourably  acquired  a 
a  verv  considerable  fortune* — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  105 

pal  door.  One  may  conceive  such  an  idea  presenting  itself 
to  two  spirited  young  men  ;  but  it  is  scarcely  credible,  that  of 
these  two  noble  adventurous  youths,  one  should  be  at  present 
on  his  way  to  France,  and  the  other  in  good  health  at  New 
port.*  M.  de  Mauduit  making  no  doubt  that  they  were 
following  him  with  all  the  straw  in  the  barn,  went  straight  to 
a  window  on  the  ground  floor,  which  he  forced,  and  on  which 
he  mounted.  He  was  received,  in  truth,  like  the  lover  who 
mounting  a  ladder  to  see  his  mistress  found  the  husband  wait 
ing  for  him  on  the  balcony :  I  do  not  know  whether,  like  him 
too,  on  being  asked  what  he  was  doing  there,  he  answered,  / 
am  only  taking  a  walk  ;  but  this  I  know,  that  whilst  a  gallant 
man,  pistol  in  hand,  desired  him  to  surrender,  another  less 
polite  entering  briskly  into  the  chamber,  fired  a  musket  shot, 
which  killed,  not  M.  de  Mauduit,  but  the  officer  who  wished 
to  take  him.  After  these  slight  mistakes,  and  this  little  quar 
rel,  the  difficulty  was  for  him  to  retire.  On  one  hand  he  must 
be  exposed  to  a  smart  fire  from  the  first  and  second  floor;  on 
the  other,  a  part  of  the  American  army  were  spectators,  and  it 
would  have  been  ridiculous  to  return  running.  M.  de  Mau 
duit,  like  a  true  Frenchman,  chose  rather  to  expose  himself 
to  death  than  ridicule  ;  but  the  balls  respected  our  prejudices ; 
he  returned  safe  and  sound,  and  Mr.  Laurens,  who  was  in  no 
greater  haste  than  he,  escaped  with  a  slight  wound  in  his 
shoulder.  I  must  not  here  omit  a  circumstance  which  proves 
the  precarious  tenure  of  a  military  existence.  General  Wash 
ington  thought  that  on  summoning  the  commander  of  this  post, 
he  would  readily  surrender  :  it  was  proposed  to  M.  de  Mauduit 
to  take  a  drum  with  him,  and  make  this  proposal ;  but  on  his 
observing  that  he  spoke  bad  English,  and  might  not,  perhaps,  be 
understood,  an  American  officer  was  sent,  who  being  preceded 
by  a  drum,  and  displaying  a  white  handkerchief,  it  was  ima 
gined,  would  not  incur  the  smallest  risk  ;  but  the  English 
answered  this  officer  only  by  musket  shot,  and  killed  him  on 
the  spot. 

By  this  time  the  enemy  began  to  rally :  the  English  army 
had  marched  from  their  camp  near  Schuylkill  to  succour  Ger 
man  town,  and  Cornwallis  was  coming  with  all  expedition  from 
Philadelphia,  with  the  grenadiers  and  chasseurs,  whilst  the 
.corps  de  reserve  of  the  American  army  were  losing  their  time 
at  the  stone-house,  and  the  left  column  was  scarcely  ready  for 
the  attack.  The  contest  was  now  become  too  unequal,  and  it 


*  Mr.  Laurens  has  since  fallen  a  victim  to  his  too  inconsiderate 
valour :  he  was  killed  in  Carolina,  in  a  skirmish  of  little  importance.  ;v 
short  time  before  the  'signing  of  the  peace. 

14 


100  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

became  necessary  to  think  of  a  retreat,  which  was  executed  in 
good  order,  and  General  Washington  took  an  excellent  position 
four  miles  from  Germantown  ;  so  that  on  the  evening  of  the 
battle,  he  was  six  miles  nearer  the  enemy  than  before.     The 
capacity  he  had  just  displayed  on  this  occasion,  the  confidence 
he  had  inspired  into  an  army  they  thought  disheartened,  and 
which,  like  the  Hydra  of  the  fable,  re-appeared  with  a  more 
threatening  head,  astonished  the  English,  and  kept  them  in 
awe,  till  the  defeat  of  Burgoyne  changed  the  aspect  of  affairs. 
This  is  the  most  favourable  light  in  which  we  can  view  this 
day,  unfortunately  too  bloody  for  any  advantages  derived  from 
it.     Military  men  who  shall  view  the  ground,  or  have  before 
them  an  accurate  plan,  will,  I  imagine,  be  of  opinion,  that  the 
extensiveness  of  the  object  occasioned  the  failure  of  this  enter- 
prize.     The  project  of  first  beating  the  advanced  corps,  then 
the  army,  and  afterwards  of  becoming  masters  of  Philadelphia, 
was  absolutely  chimerical :   for  the  village   of  Germantown 
being  upwards  of  two  miles  in  length,  presented  too  many  ob 
stacles  for  the  assailants,  and  too  many  points  of  rallying  for 
the  English  ;  besides  that  it  is  not  in  intersected  countries,  and 
without  cavalry,  that  great  battles  are  gained,  which  destroy 
or  disperse  armies.     Had  General  Washington  contented  him 
self  with  proceeding  to  Whitemarsh,  and  covering  his  march 
with  a  large  body  of  troops,  which  might  have  advanced  to 
Germantown,  he  would  have  surprised  the  English  van-guard, 
and  forced  them  to  retire  with  loss ;  and  if  satisfied  with  this 
sort  of  lesson  given  to  a  victorious  army,  he  had  fallen  back  on 
the  new  position  he  wished  to  occupy,  he  would  have  com 
pletely  fulfilled  his  object,  and  the  whole  honour  of  the  day 
been  his.     But,  supposing  the  project  of  attack  to  be,  such  as 
was  adopted,  it  appears  to  me  that  two  faults,  rather  excusable, 
it  is  true,  were  committed  ;  one,  the  losing  time  in  ranging  in 
line  of  battle  General  Sullivan's  column,  instead  of  marching 
directly  to  the  camp  of  the  enemy ;  the  other,  the  amusing 
themselves  in  attacking  the  stone-house.     The  first  fault  will 
appear  very  pardonable  to  those  who  have  seen  the  American 
troops  such  as  they  then  were  ;  they  had  no  instruction,  and 
were  so  ill-disciplined,  that  they  could  neither  preserve  good 
order  in  marching  in  a  column,  nor  spread  themselves  when  it 
became  necessary ;  for  experience,  which  is  always  differing 
with  M.  de  Menil  Durand,  teaches  us,  that  profound  order  is 
the  most  subject  to  disorder  and  confusion,  and  which  conse 
quently  demands  the  most  phlegm  and  discipline.     The  second 
error  may  be  justified  by  the  hope  they  always  had  of  getting 
possession  of  the  stone-house,  the  importance  of  which  was 
measured  by  the  obstinacy  of  the  enemy  in  defending  it.     It 
is  certain,  that  two  better  measures  might  have  been  adopted  : 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  107 

the  first  to  pursue  their  march  without  regarding  the  fire  of 
musketry,  which  could  always  have  been  sufficiently  slackened 
by  detaching  a  few  men  to  fire  at  the  windows ;  and  the  second, 
that  of  leaving  the  village  on  the  left,  to  enter  it  again  three 
hundred  paces  further  on,  where  it  would  then  have  been  suffi 
cient  to  take  possession  of  another  house  opposite  to  those 
occupied  by  the  enemy  ;  though  this  house  be  not  quite  so 
high  as  the  former,  the  fire  from  it  would  have  checked  the 
English,  and  secured  a  retreat  in  case  of  necessity.* 

In  allowing  myself  this  sort  of  censure,  I  feel  how  much  I 
ought  to  mistrust  my  own  judgment,  especially  as  I  was  not 
present  at  the  action  ;  but  I  made  the  same  observations  to  M . 
Laurens,  M.  de  Mauduit,  and  M.  de  Gimat,  who  seemed  to  be 
unable  to  refute  them.  We  have  seen  the  share  the  two 
former  had  in  the  engagement:  the  third  has  several  times 
viewed  the  field  of  battle  with  General  Washington,  who  ex 
plained  to  him  the  motions  of  the  two  armies,  and  nobody  is 
better  calculated  to  hear  well,  and  to  give  a  good  account  of 
what  he  has  heard. 

After  sufficiently  examining  the  position  of  Germantown,  I 
returned  to  Philadelphia  by  the  shortest  road,  and  quicker  than 
I  came,  for  the  cold  was  very  piercing,  and  I  had  only  time  to 
dress  myself  to  accompany  the  Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne  to 
dine  with  the  northern  delegates.  It  must  be  understood,  that 
the  Delegates,  or  if  you  will,  the  Members  of  Congress,  have 
a  tavern  to  themselves,  where  they  give  frequent  entertain 
ments  ;  but  that  the  company  may  not  be  too  numerous  at  a 
time,  they  divide  themselves  into  two  sets,  and  as  we  see,  very 
geographically ;  the  line  of  demarkation  being  from  east  to 
west.j  The  dinner  was  plain  and  good,  and  our  reception 


*  Possibly  the  Marquis  does  not  know  that  there  were  six  companies 
of  the  40th  regiment  in  this  house  ;  no  despicable  enemy  to  leave  in 
the  rear  of  such  an  army  as  General  Washington's  was  composed  of. 
—  Trans. 

t  There  is  a  great  probability  of  seeing  this  line  of  demarkation 
more  distinctly  marked,  by  a  separation  of  the  federal  union  into  two 
parts,  at  no  very  distant  day  ;  but  not  on  hostile,  or  unfriendly  terms. 
This  was  matter  of  frequent  discussion  during  my  stay  at  Philadelphia, 
and  seemed  to  be  an  opinion  which  was  daily  gaining  ground.  In 
deed  it  seems  to  be  a  measure  which  sooner  or  later  must  take  place, 
from  the  obvious  difficulties  attending  the  management,  and  operations 
of  a  confederacy  extending  from  Florida  to  Nova-Scotia,  a  country, 
every  day  increasing  in  population,  and  branching  out  into  new  states. 
Such  a  division  must,  in  my  opinion,  give  new  force  and  energy  to 
each  part  of  it,  and  produce  more  union  and  activity  in  their  coun 
cils  :  nor  do  I  see  any  bad  consequences  arising  from  such  an  ami  - 


10s  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

polite   and   cordial,  but  not  ceremonious.     Two  Delegates, 
placed  at  each  end,  did  the  honours  of  the  table.     Mr.  Duane, 
Deputy  from  the  state  of  New-York,  occupied  the  side  I  was 
qn.     He  is  of  a  gay  and  open  character,  has  no  objection  to 
talk,  and  drinks  without  repugnance.     I  conversed  some  time, 
but  less  than  I  could  have  wished  with  Mr.  Charles  Thomp 
son,  Secretary  of  Congress.     He  passes,  with  reason,  for  one 
of  the  best  informed  men  in  the  country,  and  though  he  be  a 
man  of  the  cabinet,  and  mixing  little  with  society,  his  manners 
are  polite  and  amiable.     Mr.  Samuel  Adams,  Deputy  for  Mas 
sachusetts  Bay,  was  not  at  this  dinner,  but  on  rising  from  ta 
ble  I  went  to  see  him.     When  I  entered  his  room,  I  found  him 
ttte-d-tete  with  a  young  girl  of  fifteen  who  was  preparing  his 
tea,  but  we  shall  not  be  scandalized  at  this,  on  considering 
that  he  is  at  least  sixty.     Every  body  in  Europe  knows  that  he 
was  one  of  the  prime  movers  of  the  present  revolution.     I  ex 
perienced  in  his  company  the  satisfaction  one  rarely  has  in  the 
world,  nay  even  on  the  theatre,  of  finding  the  person  of  the 
actor  corresponding  with  the  character  he  performs.     In  him,  I 
saw  a  man  wrapt  up  in  his  object,  who  never  spoke  but  to  give 
a  good  opinion  of  his  cause,  and  a  high  idea  of  his  country. 
His  simple  and  frugal  exterior,  seemed  intended  as  a  contrast 
with  the  energy  and  extent  of  his  ideas,  which  were  wholly 
turned  towards  the  republic,  and  lost  nothing  of  their  warmth 
by  being  expressed  with  method  and  precision;  as  an  army, 
marching  towards  the  enemy,  has  not  a  less  determined  air  for 
observing  the  laws  of  tactics.     Among  many  facts  he  cited 
in  honour  of  his  country,  I  shall  relate  one  which  merits  to  be 
transmitted  to  posterity.     Two  young  soldiers  had  deserted 
from  the  army,  and  returned  to  their  father's  house.     Their 
father,  incensed  at  this  action,  loaded  them  with  irons,  and 
conducted  them  himself  to  their  general,  Lord  Sterling.     He 
did  what  every  other  officer  would  have  done,  in  his  place,  he 
pardoned  them.     The  father,  as  patriotic,  but  less  austere  than 
a  Roman,  was  happy  to  preserve  his  children  ;  nevertheless  he 
seemed  astonished,  and  approaching  the  general,  my  lord,  says 
he,  with  tears  in  his  eyes,  "  'Tis  more  than  I  hoped  for."    I  quit 
ted  Mr.  Adams  with  regret,  but  with  a  full  intention  of  seeing 
him  again,  and  my  evening  terminated  by  a  visit  to  Colonel 


cable  separation,  except  in  the  case  of  a  war  exactly  similar  to  the 
last,  a  case  which  I  believe  every  man  will  agree  is  scarcely  within  the 
line  of  possibility.  Local  obstacles  to  a  long  continuance  of  the 
present  state  of  things,  must  alone  infallibly  produce  it.  They  who 
are  acquainted  with  America  will  add  many  reasons,  which  it  is 
unnecessary  for  me  to  enumerate. —  Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  109 

Bland,  one  of  the  Delegates  for  Carolina.  He  is  a  tall  hand 
some  man,  who  has  been  in  the  West-Indies,  where  he  ac 
quired  French.  He  is  said  to  be  a  good  soldier,  but  at  present, 
serves  his  country,  and  serves  it  well  in  Congress.  The 
Southern  Delegates,  in  fact,  have  great  credit,  they  are  inces 
santly  labouring  to  draw  the  attention  of  the  government 
towards  them,  and  to  avert  every  idea  of  purchasing  peace  on 
their  account. 

The  weather  was  so  bad  on  the  third  that  it  was  impossible  to 
stir  out.  I  had  no  reason  to  complain,  however,  of  the  em 
ployment  of  this  day,  which  I  passed  either  in  conversation 
with  M.  de  la  Luzerne,  and  M.  de  Marbois,  or  in  reading  such 
interesting  papers  as  they  were  pleased  to  communicate.  Mr. 
Huntington  having  informed  me,  that  the  next  day  he  would 
show  me  the  hall  in  which  the  Congress  assembles,  I  went  there 
at  ten  o'clock,  and  found  him  waiting  for  me,  accompanied  by 
several  delegates.  This  hall  is  spacious,  without  magnifi 
cence  ;  its  handsomest  ornament  is  the  portrait  of  General 
Washington,  larger  than  life :  He  is  represented  on  foot,  in 
that  noble  and  easy  attitude  which  is  natural  to  him ;  cannon, 
colours,  and  all  the  attributes  of  war  form  the  accessories  of 
the  picture.  I  was  then  conducted  into  the  secretary's  hall, 
which  has  nothing  remarkable  but  the  mariner  in  which  it  is 
furnished;  the  colours  taken  from  the  enemy  serve  by  way  of 
tapestry.  From  thence  you  pass  to  the  library,  which  is  pretty 
large,  but  far  from  being  filled ;  the  few  books  it  is  composed 
of,  appear  to  be  well  chosen.  It  is  in  the  town-house  that 
Congress  hold  their  meetings :  this  building  is  rather  hand 
some  ;  the  staircase  in  particular  is  wide  and  noble  :  as  to  ex 
ternal  ornaments,  they  consist  only  in  the  decoration  of  the 
gate,  and  in  several  tablets  of  marble  placed  above  the  win 
dows.  I  remarked  a  peculiarity  in  the  roof,  which  appeared 
new  to  me  :  the  chimneys  are  bound  to  the  two  extremities 
of  the  building,  which  is  a  long  square,  and  are  so  con 
structed,  as  to  be  fastened  together  in  the  form  of  an  arch, 
thus  forming  a  sort  of  portico. 

After  taking  leave  of  the  President  and  Delegates,  I  re 
turned  to  the  Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne's,  and  as  the  streets 
were  covered  with  ice,  I  staid  at  home,  where  I  received  a 
visit  from  Mr.  Wilson,*  a  celebrated  lawyer  and  author  of  se 
veral  pamphlets  on  the  present  affairs.  He  has  in  his  library 
all  our  best  authors  on  public  law  and  jurisprudence ;  the  works 

*  Mr.  Wilson  is  a  Scotchman,  and  is  making  a  fortune  rapidly  in 
the  profession  of  the  law  at  Philadelphia.  He  is  about  four  and  forty, 
a  man  of  real  abilities,  and  Mr.  Morris's  intimate  friend  and  coadjutor 
in  his  aristocratic  plans. —  Trans, 


110  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

of  President  Montesquieu,  and  of  the  Chancellor  d'Aquessau. 
hold  the  first  rank  among  them,  and  he  makes  them  his  daily 
study.  After  dinner,  which  was  private  and  a  la  Francoise,  I 
went  to  see  Mrs.  Bingham,  a  young  and  handsome  woman, 
only  seventeen  :  her  husband,  who  was  there,  according  to  the 
American  custom,  is  only  five  and  twenty  :*  he  was  Agent  of 
Congress  at  Martinico,  from  whence  he  is  returned  with  a  tole 
rable  knowledge  of  French,  and  with  much  attachment  to  the 
Marquis  de  Bouille.  I  passed  the  remainder  of  the  evening 
with  Mrs.  Powell,  where  I  expected  to  have  an  agreeable  con 
versation;  in  which  I  was  not  deceived,  and  forgot  myself 
there  till  pretty  late. 

I  went  again  to  the  town-house,  on  the  5th,  but  it  was  to  be 

*  Mr.  Bingham,  even  at  this  age,  returned  from  Martinico  with  a 
very  handsome  fortune.  In  the  year  1782,  he  gained  a  very  considera 
ble  sum  by  opening  policies  on  the  capture  of  the  Count  de  Grasse 
in  the  Ville  de  Paris ;  an  event,  of  which  there  is  little  doubt  he  had 
secret  and  sure  intelligence  from  his  connection  with  the  islands.  They 
first  opened  at  10,  and  afterwards  were  done  at  25  and  30  per  cent. 
Very  large  sums  were  underwritten,  chiefly  by  the  whigs,  who  were 
unwilling,  and  could  not  be  brought  to  credit  this  piece  of  news. 
Circumstances  were  peculiarly  favourable  to  this  speculation,  for,  not 
withstanding  the  great  intercourse  between  the  West-Indies  and  the 
Continent,  only  two  accounts  of  this  affair  arrived  for  six  weeks  after 
the  engagement ;  the  event  of  which  was  sooner  known,  with  certainty, 
in  England.  The  one  was  in  Rivington's  New- York  paper,  copied 
from  the  Antigua  Gazette,  and  lamely  given  ;  besides,  that  his  paper 
was  deservedly  in  universal  discredit :  the  other  was  brought  to  Phila 
delphia  by  the  Holker  privateer,  Captain  Keane,  who  saw  part  of  the 
engagement,  but  whose  account  contradicted  the  principal  facts  in 
Rivington's.  The  two  fleets  having  gone  to  leeward  after  the  battle, 
no  fresh  intelligence  was  received  from  the  leeward,  or  more  properly 
speaking  here,  in  the  windward  islands,  so  that  this  gambling  was  car 
ried  to  so  high  a  pitch,  as  to  induce  the  French  Ambassador  to  go  in 
person  to  the  coffee-house  to  communicate  a  letter  he  had  received 
from  Martinique,  subsequent  to  the  battle ;  from  which  fair  conclusions 
might  be  drawn  against  the  capture  ;  but  this,  instead  of  putting  a  stop 
to  the  gambling,  by  encouraging  the  whigs,  increased  it  : — Mr.  Bing 
ham  and  his  friends  in  the  secret,  indulged  them  to  the  utmost  extent  of 
their  enthusiasm ;  and  if  the  policies  were  all  paid,  a  matter  which 
began  to  be  a  subject  of  discussion  when  I  left  Philadelphia,  must  have 
gained  prodigious  sums,  for  no  less  than  from  £80,000  to  £100,000 
sterling  were  calculated  to  have  been  written.  It  is  a  singular  circum 
stance,  that  the  first  authentic  account  of  this  great  battle,  which  ap 
peared  in  America,  was  copied  from  the  London  Gazette.  Whereas 
we  had  at  Boston  the  account  of  the  loss  of  the  Royal  George,  at  Spit- 
liead,  the  IQth  day  after  the  accident,  by  way  of  Newfoundland. — 
Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  Ill 

present  at  the  Assembly  of  the  State  of  Pennsylvania ;  for  the 
hall,  where  this  sort  of  parliament  meets,  is  under  the  same 
roof  with  the  Congress.  I  was  with  M.  de  la  Fayette,  the 
Vicomte  de  Noailles,  the  Comte  de  Damas,  M.  de  Gimat,  and 
all  the  French,  or  Gallo-Jimer icans,  at  Philadelphia.  We 
seated  ourselves  on  a  bench  opposite  the  Speaker's  chair :  on 
his  right  was  the  President  of  the  State :  the  Clerks  were 
placed  at  a  long  table  before  the  Speaker.  The  debates  turn 
ed  on  some  misconduct,  imputed  to  the  Commissioners  of  the 
Treasury.  The  executive  council  were  sent  for,  and  heard. 
General  Mifflin  was  almost  the  only  speaker ;  he  delivered 
himself  with  grace  and  spirit,  but  with  a  marked  intention  of 
opposing  the  President  of  the  State,  who  is  not  one  of  his 
friends.  His  manner  of  expressing  himself,  his  gestures,  his 
deportment,  the  air  and  ease  of  superiority  he  invariably  as 
sumed,  perfectly  reminded  me  of  those  members  of  the  House 
of  Commons  who  are  accustomed  to  give  the  tone  to  others, 
and  to  make  every  thing  bend  to  their  opinion.  The  affair 
not  being  terminated  in  the  morning,  the  Speaker  left  the 
chair ;  the  house  went  into  a  committee,  and  adjourned. 

The  morning  was  not  far  spent,  and  I  had  enough  to  employ 
it ;  I  was  expected  in  three  places  ;  by  a  lover  of  natural  his 
tory,  by  an  anatomist,  and  at  the  college,  or  rather  university 
of  Philadelphia.  I  began  by  the  cabinet  of  natural  history. 
This  small  and  scanty  collection,  is  greatly  celebrated  in  Ameri 
ca,  where  it  is  unrivalled  ;  it  was  formed  by  a  painter  of  Gene 
va,  called  Cimetiere,  a  name  better  suited  to  a  physician,,  than 
a  painter.  This  worthy  man  came  to  Philadelphia  twenty 
years  ago,  to  take  portraits,  and  has  continued  there  ever  since  ; 
he  lives  there  still  as  a  bachelor,  and  a  foreigner,  a  very  un 
common  instance  in  America,  where  men  do  riot  long  remain 
without  acquiring  the  titles  of  husband  and  citizen.  What  I 
saw  most  curious,  in  this  cabinet,  was  a  large  quantity  of  the 
vice,  or  screw,  a  sort  of  shell  pretty  common,  within  which  a 
very  hard  stone,  like  jade,*  is  exactly  moulded.  It  appears 
clear  to  me,  that  these  petrefactions  are  formed  by  the  success 
ive  accumulation  of  lapidific  molecules  conveyed  by  the 
waters,  and  assimilated  by  the  assistance  of  fixed  air.  After 
fatiguing  my  legs,  and  satisfying  my  eyes,  which  is  always  the 
case  in  cabinets  of  natural  history,  I  thought  proper  to  quit  the 
earth  for  heaven  ;  or,  in  the  vulgar  style,  I  went  to  the  library 
of  the  university,  to  see  a  very  ingenious  machine  (an  Orrery) 
representing  all  the  celestial  motions.  I  lose  no  time  in  de- 


*  See  Chamber's  Encyclopedia — a  green  sort   of  precious  stone, 
called  in  France  la  pierre  divine,  from  its  supposed  mystic  qualities. 


112  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA, 

Glaring  that  I  shall  not  give  a  description  of  it :  for  nothing  is 
so  tiresome  as  the  description  of  any  machine ;  it  is  enough 
for  me  to  say,  that  one  part  of  it  gives  a  perfect  view,  on  the 
vertical  point,  of  all  the  motions  of  the  planets  in  their  orbits  ; 
and  that  the  other,  which  is  designed  only  to  represent  that  oif 
the  moon,  displays,  in  the  clearest  manner,  her  phases,  her 
nodes,  and  her  different  altitudes.  The  President  of  the  col 
lege,*  and  Mr.  Rittenhouse,  the  inventor  and  maker  of  this 
machine,  took  the  pains  of  explaining  to  me  every  particular  : 
they  seemed  very  happy  that  I  knew  English,  and  astronomy 
enough  to  understand  them  ;  on  which  I  must  observe,  that  the 
latter  article  is  more  to  the  shame  of  the  Americans  than  to 
my  praise  ;  the  almanack  being  almost  the  only  book  of  As 
tronomy  studied  at  Philadelphia.  Mr.  Rittenhouse  is  of  a 
German  family,  as  his  name  announces  ;  but  he  is  a  native  of 
Philadelphia,  and  a  watch  maker  by  profession.  He  is  a  man 
of  great  simplicity  and  modesty,  and  though  not  a  mathema 
tician  of  the  class  of  the  Eulers,  and  the  D'Alemberts,  knows 
enough  of  that  science  to  be  perfectly  acquainted  with  the  mo 
tions  of  the  heavenly  bodies.  As  for  his  mechanical  talents. 


*  The  President  is  Dr.  Ewing.  I  had  the  gratification  of  being  pre 
sent  at  a  public  exhibition  at  the  college,  at  which  the  Congress,  the 
President  and  executive  council  of  the  state,  General  Washington,  the 
French  Minister,  and  all  the  strangers  of  distinction,  &c.  assisted.  Some 
excellent  declamations  were  made  in  Latin,  and  in  English,  by  the  young 
men  who  were  about  to  leave  college,  and  obtain  degrees  ;  by  no 
means  inferior  to  those  I  have  heard  at  Oxford  and  Cambridge.  Their 
compositions  in  general  were  elegant,  and  their  elocution  easy,  digni 
fied,  and  manly  ;  but,  whatever  was  the  subject,  the  great  cause  of  lib 
erty  and  their  country  never  was  lost  sight  of,  nor  their  abhorrence  of 
the  tyranny  of  Britain.  This  language  in  the  mouths  of  some  of  these 
young  men,  who  were  the  sons  oftories,  illustrated  the  remark  of  the 
shrewd  and  sensible  author  of  Common  Sense,  that  whilst  the  war  was 
pending,  the  old  prejudiced  friends  of  Britain  were  dropping  off,  and 
the  rising  generation,  in  the  course  of  seven  years  knew  nothing  of 
that  country  but  as  an  enemy,  nor  saw  or  heard  of  any  thing  but  her 
cruelties  and  devastation.  To  them  the  independence  of  America  ap 
peared  as  much  the  natural  and  established  government  of  the  country, 
as  that  of  England  does  to  an  Englishman.  "Time  and  Death,  says 
he,  hard  enemies  to  contend  with,  fight  constantly  against  the  interests 
of  Britain  ;  and  the  bills  of  mortality,  in  every  part  of  America  are 
the  thermometers  of  her  decline.  The  children  in  the  streets  are  from 
their  cradle  bred  to  consider  her  as  tiieir  only  foe.  They  hear  of  her 
cruelties  :  of  their  fathers,  uncles,  and  kindred  killed  ;  they  see  the  re 
mains  of  burnt  and  destroyed  houses,  and  the  common  tradition  of  the 
school  they  go  to.  tells  them  those  things  were  done  by  the  British." 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  113 

it  is  unnecessary  to  assign  a  reason  for  them ;  we  know  that 
of  all  others,  they  are  less  the  result  of  study,  and  most 
generally  the  gift  of  nature  ;  and  it  is  a  fact  worthy  of 
observation,  that,  notwithstanding  the  little  connection  to 
be  perceived  between  that  particular  disposition  and  the  deli 
cacy  of  our  senses,  or  the  perfection  of  our  organs,  men  are 
more  frequently  born  mechanics,  than  painters  and  musicians. 
Education,  nay,  even  the  rigour  of  education,  frequently  makes 
great  artists  in  the  two  latter  ;  but  there  is  no  example  of  its 
making  a  mechanical  genius. 

This  morning  seemed  devoted  to  the  sciences,  and  my  walks 
were  a  sort  of  encyclopedia,  for,  on  quitting  the  university  li 
brary,  I  went  to  call  upon  a  celebrated  anatomist,  called  Dr. 
Showell.  The  following,  in  a  few  words,  is  his  history  :  he 
was  born  in  England  upwards  of  seventy  years  ago.  After 
studying  medicine  and  surgery  there,  he  went  to  France  to  im 
prove  himself  under  M.  Winslow.  In  1734,  he  went  to  the 
West-Indies,  where  he  since  practised  medicine,  sometimes 
at  Barbadoes,  sometimes  at  Jamaica ;  but  is  invariably 
a  man  of  application,  and  laborious.  In  the  war  of  1744, 
a  prize  being  brought  into  Barbadoes,  with  a  great  deal 
of  wax  on  board,  Mr.  Showell  took  this  opportunity  to 
make  different  anatomical  experiments  in  wax,  and  he 
succeeded  so  well  as  to  carry  this  art  to  the  highest  degree 
of  perfection.  On  seeing  him,  one  can  with  difficulty 
conceive  how  so  much  patience  and  perseverance  could 
consist  with  his  natural  vivacity  ;  for  it  seems  as  if  the  sun  of 
the  tropic  had  preserved  in  him  aH  the  heat  of  youth;  he 
speaks  with  fire,  and  expresses  himself^ts  well  in  French  as  if 
he  were  still  in  our  schools  of  surgery.  In  other  respects,  he 
is  a  perfect  original :  his  reigning  taste  is  disputation  ;  when 
the  English  were  at  Philadelphiahe  was  a  whig,  and  has  become 
a  tory  since  they  left  it ;  he  is  always  sighing  after  Europe,  with 
out  resolving  to  return,  and  declaiming  constantly  against  the 
Americans,  he  still  remains  among  them.  His  design  in  coming 
to  the  continent,  was  to  recover  his  health,  so  as  to  enable  him 
to  cross  the  seas  :  this  was  about  the  commencement  of  the 
war  ;  and,  since  that  time,  he  imagines  he  is  not  at  liberty  to 
go,  though  no  body  prevents  him.  '  He  was  to  me  a  greater  cu 
riosity  than  his  anatomical  preparations,  which,  however,  ap 
peared  superior  to  those  of  Bologna,  but  inferior  to  the  prepa 
rations  of  Mademoiselle  Bieron  ;  the  wax  having  always  a  cer 
tain  lustre  which  makes  them  less  like  nature. 

At  the  end  of  this  morning's  walk  T  was  like  a  bee,  so  laden 
with  honey  that  he  can  hardly  regain  his  hive.  I  returned  to  the 
Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne's,  with  my  memory  well  stored,  and  after 
taking  food  for  the  body  as  well  as  mind,  I  dedicated  my  eve- 

15 


114  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

ning  to  society.  I  was  invited  to  drink  tea  at  Colonel  Eland's, 
that  is  to  say,  to  attend  a  sort  of  assembly  pretty  much  like  the 
conversazzioni  of  Italy ;  for  tea  here,  is  the  substitute  for  the 
rinfresco.  Mr.  Howley,  governor  of  Georgia,  Mr.  Izard,  Mr. 
Arthur  Lee,  (the  two  last  lately  arrived  from  Europe,)  M.  de 
la  Fayette,  M.  de  Noailles,  M.  de  Damas,  &c.  were  of  the 
party.  The  scene  was  decorated  by  several  married  and  un 
married  ladies,  among  whom,  Miss  Shippen,  daughter  of  Dr. 
Shippen,  and  cousin  of  Mrs.  Arnold,  claimed  particular  dis 
tinction.  Thus  we  see  that  in  America  the  crimes  of  indivi 
duals  are  not  reflected  on  their  family  ;  not  only  had  Dr.  Ship- 
pen's  brother  given  his  daughter  to  the  traitor  Arnold,  a  short 
time  before  his  desertion,  but  it  is  generally  believed,  that  be 
ing  himself  a  tory,  he  had  inspired  his  daughter  with  the 
same  sentiments,  and  that  the  charms  of  this  handsome  woman 
contributed  not  a  little  to  hasten  to  criminality  a  mind  corrupt 
ed  by  avarice,  before  it  felt  the  power  of  love.* 

On  our  return  to  the  Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne's,  we  assem 
bled  all  the  French  and  Gallo-American  military,  and  laid  our 
plan  for  a  very  agreeable  jaunt,  we  took  next  day.  The  6th, 
in  the  morning,  M.  de  la  Fayette,  the  Vicomte  de  Noailles,  the 
Comte  de  Damas,  the  Chevalier  du  Plessis  Mauduit,  Messieurs 
de  Gimat  and  De  Neville,  aids-de-camp  of  M.  de  la  Fayette, 
M.  de  Montesquieu,  Mr.  Lynch,  and  myself,  set  out  to  visit  the 
field  of  battle  of  Brandy  wine,  thirty  miles  from  Philadelphia. 
M.  de  la  Fayette  had  not  seen  it,  since,  at  the  age  of  twenty, 
separating  from  his  wife.,  his  friends,  the  pleasures  of  the  world, 
and  those  of  youth,  at  this  distance  of  .three  thousand  miles, 
he  there  shed  the  first  drop  of  blood  he  offered  to  glory,  or 
rather  to  that  noble  cause  he  has  invariably  supported  with 
the  same  zeal,  but  with  better  fortune.  We  passed  the  Schuyl- 
kill  at  the  same  ferry  where  Mr.  Du  Coudray  was  drowned  in 
1777.  We  there  discovered  the  traces  of  some  entrenchments 
thrown  up  by  the  English,  after  they  became  masters  of  Phila 
delphia;  then  turning  to  the  left,  we  rode  on  fourteen  miles  to 
the  little  town  of  Chester.  It  is  built  at  the  junction  of  the 
creek  of  that  name,  with  the  Delaware,  and  is  a  sort  of  port 

*  Mrs.  Arnold  is  said  to  be  very  handsome ;  but  this  I  know,  that 
her  two  sisters  are  charming  women,  and  must  have  been  very  danger 
ous  companions  for  a  wavering  mind,  in  the  least  susceptible  of  the 
most  powerful  of  all  passions.  But  an  apology  for  Arnold,  on  this 
supposition,  is  too  generous  for  a  mind  so  thoroughly  base  and  unprin 
cipled  as  his.  With  what  delicacy  could  be  beloved  a  woman  by  that 
miscreant,  who  made  the  mysteries  of  the  nuptial  bed  the  subject  of 
his  coarse  ribaldry  to  his  companions,  the  day  after  his  marriage ! — 
Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  115 

where  vessels  coming  up  the  river  sometimes  anchor.  The 
houses,  to  the  number  of  forty  or  fifty,  are  handsome  and  built 
of  stone  or  brick.*  On  leaving  Chester,  and  on  the  road  to 
Brandywine,  we  pass  the  stone  bridge  where  M.  de  la  Fayette, 
wounded  as  he  was,  stopped  the  fugitives,  and  made  the  first 
dispositions  for  rallying  them  behind  the  creek.  The  country  be 
yond  it  has  nothing  particular,  but  resembles  the  west  of  Penn 
sylvania,  that  is  to  say,  is  interspersed  with  woods  and  cultiva 
ted  lands.  It  was  too  late  when  we  came  within  reach  of  the 
field  of  battle,  and  as  we  could  see  nothing  till  next  morning, 
and  were  too  numerous  to  remain  together,  it  was  necessary  to 
separate  into  two  divisions.  Messieurs  de  Gimat,  De  Mauduit, 
and  my  two  aids-de-camp,  staid  with  me  at  an  inn,  three 
miles  on  this  side  Brandywine ;  and  M.  de  la  Fayette,  attend 
ed  by  the  other  travellers,  went  farther  on  to  ask  quarters  at  a 
quaker's  called  Benjamin  Ring,  at  whose  house  he  lodged  with 
General  Washington  the  night  before  the  battle.  I  joined 
him  early  the  next  morning,  and  found  him  in  great  friendship 
with  his  host,  who,  quakcr  as  he  was,  seemed  delighted  to  en 
tertain  the  marquis.  We  got  on  horseback  at  nine,  provided 
with  a  plan,  executed  under  the  direction  of  General  Howe, 
and  engraved  in  England ;  but  we  got  more  information  from 
an  American  major,  with  whom  M.  de  la  Fayette  had  appointed 
a  place  of  meeting.  This  officer  was  present  at  the  engage 
ment,  and  his  house  being  on  the  field  of  battle,  he  knew  it 
better  than  any  body. 

We  must  recollect,  that  in  1777,  the  English  having  in  vain 
attempted  to  cross  the  Jerseys  to  get  to  Philadelphia  by  land, 
were  obliged  to  embark,  and  doubled  the  capes  to  reach  the 
bay  of  Chesapeake,  and  the  mouth  of  the  river  Elk.  They  ar 
rived  there  the  25th  of  August,  after  a  passage  dreadful  by  sea, 
but  fortunate  in  the  bay.  which  they  remounted  with  much  less 
difficulty  than  they  expected.  Whilst  the  sea,  the  winds,  and 
three  hundred  vessels  were  assisting  the  manoeuvres  of  the 
enemy's  army,  Mr.  Washington  remained  some  days  at  Middle- 
brook,  in  one  of  the  most  embarrassing  positions  in  which  the 
general  of  an  army  can  be  placed.  To  the  north,  the  troops 
of  Burgoyne,  after  taking  Ticonderoga,  were  advancing  to 
wards  Albany ;  to  the  south,  an  English  army  of  fifteen  thou 
sand  men  were  embarkedrand  might  either  proceed  to  Chesa 
peake  bay,  as  they  did,  penetrate  by  the  Delaware,  or  go  up 
Hudson's  river  as  far  as  Crest  Point,  to  form  a  junction  with 
Burgoyne,  and  cut  off  the  American  army,  which  from  that 

*  Not  far  from  this  town,  is  found  an  astonishing  quantity  of  eubes- 
tos.— Trans. 


116  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

moment  would  have  been  for  ever  separated  from  the  eastern 
and  northern  states.  Of  all  the  chances,  this  was  certainly 
the  most  to  be  dreaded  ;  accordingly  General  Washington  did 
not  abandon  his  position  at  Middlebrook,  till  he  received  cer 
tain  intelligence  that  the  enemy  had  doubled  Cape  May.  Let 
us  figure  to  ourselves  the  situation  in  which  a  general  must  find 
himself,  when  obliged  to  comprehend  in  his  plan  of  defence, 
an  immense  country,  and  a  vast  extent  of  coast,  he  is  at  a  loss 
to  know,  within  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  where  the  enemy 
is  likely  to  appear ;  and  having  no  longer  any  intelligence  of 
them,  either  by  patroles,  or  detachments,  or  even  by  couriers, 
is  reduced  to  the  necessity  of  observing  the  compass,  and  of 
consulting  the  winds,  before  he  can  form  any  resolution.  As 
soon  as  the  movement  of  the  enemy  was  decided,  General 
Washington  lost  no  time  in  marching  his  army  ;  I  should  rather 
say  his  soldiers,  for  a  number  of  soldiers,  however  considera 
ble,  does  not  always  form  an  army.  His  was  composed  of  at 
most  12,000  men.  It  was  at  the  head  of  these  troops,  the 
greatest  part  of  them  new  levies,  that  he  traversed  in  silence 
the  city  of  Philadelphia,  whilst  the  Congress  were  giving  him 
orders  to  fight,  yet  removing  their  archives  and  public  papers 
into  the  interior  parts  of  the  country  ;  a  sinister  presage  of  the 
success  which  must  follow  their  council. 

The  army  passed  the  Schuylkill.  and  occupied  a  first  camp 
near  Wilmington,  on  the  banks  of  the  Delaware.  This  posi 
tion  had  a  double  object ;  for  the  ships  of  war,  after  convoy 
ing  General  Howe  to  the  river  Elk.  had  fallen  down  the  bay  of 
the  Chesapeake,  remounted  the  Delaware,  and  seconded  by 
some  troops  landed  from  the  fleet,  appeared  inclined  to  force 
the  passages  of  that  river.  General  Washington,  however, 
soon  perceived  that  the  position  he  had  taken  became  every 
day  more  dangerous.  The  English,  having  finished  their  de 
barkation,  were  ready  to  advance  into  the  country ;  his  flank 
was  exposed,  and  he  left  uncovered,  at  once,  Philadelphia  and 
the  whole  county  of  Lancaster.  It  was  determined,  there 
fore,  that  the  army  should  repass  the  creek  of  Brandywine, 
and  encamp  on  the  left  bank  of  that  river.  The  position 
made  choice  of,  was  certainly  the  best  that  could  be  taken  to 
dispute  the  passage.  The  left  was  very  good,  and  supported 
by  thick  woods  extending  as  far  as  the  junction  of  the  creek 
with  the  Delaware.  As  it  approaches  its  conflux,  this  creek 
becomes  more  and  more  embanked,  and  difficult  to  ford  :  the 
heights  q,re  equal  on  the  two  banks ;  but  for  this  reason  the 
advantage  was  in  favour  of  him  who  defended  the  passage. 
A  batjtery  of  cannon  with  a  good  parapet,  was  pointed  to 
wards  Chaddsford,  and  every  thing  appeared  in  safety  on  that 
side  ;  but  to  the  right  the  ground  was  so  covered,  that  it  was 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  117 

impossible  to  judge  of  the  motions  of  the  enemy,  and  to  keep 
in  a  line  with  them,  in  case  they  should  attempt,  as  they  did, 
to  detach  a  corps  by  their  left,  to  pass  the  river  higher  up. 
The  only  precaution  that  could  be  taken  was  to  place  five  or 
six  brigades*  in  steps  from  each  other,  to  watch  that  manoeu 
vre.  General  Sullivan  had  the  command  of  them ;  he  re 
ceived  orders  to  keep  in  a  line  with  the  enemy,  should  they 
march  by  their  left ;  and  on  the  supposition  that  they  would 
unite  their  forces  on  the  side  of  Chaddsford,  he  was  himself 
to  pass  the  river,  and  make  a  powerful  diversion  on  their  flank. 

When  a  general  has  foreseen  ever)/  thing,  when  he  has 
made  the  best  possible  dispositions,  and  his  activity,  his  judg 
ment,  and  his  courage  in  the  action  correspond  with  the  wis 
dom  of  his  measures,  has  he  not  already  triumphed  in  the 
eyes  of  every  impartial  judge  ?  and  if  by  any  unforeseen  ac 
cidents,  the  laurels  he  has  merited  drop  from  his  hands,  is  it 
not  the  historian's  duty  carefully  to  collect,  and  replace  them 
on  his  brow  ?  Let  us  hope  that  history  will  acquit  herself  of 
this  duty  better  than  us,  and  let  us  see  how  such  wise  disposi 
tions  were  disconcerted  by  the  mistakes  of  some  officers,  and 
the  inexperience  of  the  troops. 

The  llth  of  September,  General  Howe  occupied  the 
heights  on  the  right  of  the  creek  ;  he  there  formed  part  of  his 
troops  in  line  of  battle,  and  prepared  some  batteries  opposite 
Chaddsford,  whilst  his  light  troops  were  attacking  and  driving 
before  them  a  corps  of  riflemen,  who  had  passed  over  to  the 
right  bank  more  closely  to  observe  his  motions.  General 
Washington  seeing  the  cannonade  continue,  without  any  dis 
position  of  the  enemy  to  pass  the  river,  concluded  they  had 
another  object.  He  was  informed  that  a  great  part  of  their 
army  had  marched  higher  up  the  creek,  and  were  threatening 
his  right ;  he  felt  the  importance  of  keeping  an  attentive  eye 
on  all  the  movements  of  this  corps ;  but  the  country  was  so 
covered  with  thickets,  that  the  patroles  could  discover  nothing. 
It  must  be  observed  that  General  Washington  had  a  very  small 
number  of  horse,  and  those  he  had  sent  to  the  right,  towards 
Dilworth,  to  make  discoveries  on  that  side.  He  ordered  an 
officer  of  whom  he  had  a  good  opinion,  to  pass  the  river,  and 
inform  himself  .accurately  of  the  route  Lord  Cornwallis  was 
taking ;  for  it  was  he  who  commanded  this  separate  corps. 
The  officer  returned,  and  assured  him  that  Cornwallis  was 
inarching  by  his  right  to  join  Knyphausen,  on  the  side  of 
Chaddsford.  According  to  this  report,  the  attack  seemed  to 
be  determined  on  the  left.  Another  officer  was  then  sent, 
who  reported  that  Cornwallis  had  changed  his  direction,  and 

*  General  Howe  calls  them  10.000  men— Trans. 


118  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

that  he  was  rapidly  advancing  by  the  road  leading  to  Jefferies 
Ford,  two  miles  higher  than  Birmingham  church.  General 
Sullivan  was  immediately  ordered  to  march  thither  with  all  the 
troops  of  the  right.  Unfortunately  the  roads  were  badly  re 
connoitred,  and  not  at  all  open:  with  great  difficulty  General 
Sullivan  got  through  the  woods,  and  when  he  came  out  of 
them  to  gain  a  small  eminence  near  Birmingham  church,  he 
found  the  English  columns  mounting  it  on  the  opposite  side.  It 
was  no  easy  matter  to  range  into  order  of  battle  such  troops 
as  his ;  he  had  neither  the  time  to  choose  his  position,  nor  to 
form  his  line.  The  English  gained  the  eminence,  drove  the 
Americans  back  on  the  woods,  to  the  edge  of  which  they  pur 
sued  them,  and  they  were  totally  dispersed. * 

During  the  short  time  this  action  lasted,  Lord  Stirling  and 
General  Conway,  had  time  to  form  their  brigade  on  pretty  ad 
vantageous  ground :  it  was  a  gentle  rising,  partly  covered  by 
the  woods  which  bounded  it,  their  left  was  protected  by  the 
same  woods,  and  on  the  right  of  this  rising  ground,  but  a  little 
in  the  rear,  was  the  Virginia  line,  who  were  ranged  in  line  of 
battle,  on  a  high  spot  of  ground,  and  on  the  edge  of  an  open 
wood.  The  left  column  of  the  enemy,  who  had  not  been  en 
gaged  with  Sullivan,  formed  rapidly,  and  marched  against  these 
troops  with  as  much  order  as  vivacity  and  courage.  The  Ame 
ricans  made  a  very  smart  fire,  which  did  not  check  the  English, 
and  it  was' not  till  the  latter  were  within  twenty  yards  of  them, 
that  they  gave  way,  and  threw  themselves  into  the  woods. 
Lord  Stirling.  M.  de  la  Fayette,  arid  General  Sullivan  himself, 
after  the  defeat  of  his  division  fought  with  this  body  of  troops, 
whose  post  was  the  most  important,  and  made  the  longest  re 
sistance.  It  was  here  that  M.  de  la  Fayette  was  wounded  in 
his  left  leg,  in  rallying  the  troops  who  were  beginning  to  stag 
ger.  On  the  right,  the  Virginia  line  made  some  resistance ; 
but  the  English  had  gained  a  height,  from  whence  their  artil 
lery  took  them  en  echarpe:  this  fire  must  have  been  very  severe, 
for  most  of  the  trees,  bear  the  mark  of  bullets  or  cannon  shot. 
The  Virginians  in  their  turn  gave  way,  and  the  right  was  then 
entirely  uncovered. 

Though  this  was  three  miles  from  Chaddsford,  General 
Knyphausen  heard  the  firing  of  the  artillery,  and  musketry,  and 
judging  that  the  affair  was  serious,  the  confidence  he  had  in 


*  General  Howe's  account  says,  u  General  Washington  detached 
General  Sullivan  to  his  right  with  10,000  men,  who  took  a  strong  posi 
tion  on  the  commanding  ground  above  Birmingham  church,"  and  then 
relates  the  manceuvres  to  dislodge  them.  There  is  a  material  differ- 
once  in  these  accounts. —  Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  lli> 

the  English  and  Hessian  troops,  made  him  conclude  they  were 
victorious.  Towards  five  in  the  evening,  lie  descended  from 
the  heights  in  two  columns,*  one  at  John's  Ford,  which  turned 
the  battery  of  the  Americans,  and  the  other  lower  down  at 
Chaddsford.  The  latter  marched  straight  to  the  battery  and 
took  it.  General  Wayne,  whose  brigade  was  in  line  of  battle, 
the  left  on  an  eminence,  and  the  right  drawing  towards  the 
battery,  then  made  that  right  fall  back,  and  strengthened  the 
heights,  thus  forming  a  sort  of  change  of  front.  In  a  country 
where  there  are  neither  open  columns,  nor  successive  positions 
to  take,  in  case  of  accident,  it  is  difficult  to  make  any  disposi 
tion  for  retreat.  The  different  corps  who  had  been  beaten,  all 
precipitated  themselves  into  Chester  road,  where  they  formed 
but  one  column ;  artillery,  baggage  and  troops  being  confused 
ly  mixed  together.  At  the  beginning  of  the  night  General 
Washington  also  took  this  road,  and  the  English,  content  with 
their  victory,  did  not  disturb  their  retreat. 

Such  is  the  idea  I  have  formed  of  the  battle  of  Brandywine, 
from  what  I  have  from  General  Washington  himself,  from  M. 
de  la  Fayette,  Messieurs  de  Girnat  and  De  Manduit  and  from 
the  Generals  Wayne  and  Sullivan.  I  must  observe,  however, 
that  there  is  a  disagreement  in  some  particulars ;  several  per 
sons,  for  example,  pretend  that  Knyphausen,  after  passing  the 
river,  continued  his  march  in  one  column  to  the  battery,  and 
it  is  thus  marked  in  the  English  plan,  which  gives  a  false  direc 
tion  to  that  column ;  besides  that  General  Washington,  and 
General  Wayne  assured  me  there  were  two,  and  that  the  left 
column  turned  the  battery,  which  otherwise  would  not  have 
been  carried. f  It  is  equally  difficult  to  trace  out  on  the  plan, 
all  the  ground  on  which  Cornwallis  fought.  The  relations  oil 
both  sides  throw  hardly  any  light  upon  it ;  I  was  obliged  there 
fore  to  draw  my  conclusions  from  the  different  narratives,  and 
to  follow  none  of  them  implicitly. 


*  Several  persons,  amongst  others  some  English  officers  who  were 
prisoners,  whom  I  have  questioned,  assured  me  that  Knyphausen's 
corps  passed  the  river  only  in  one  column  at  Chaddsford  ;  and  then 
separated  into  two,  one  of  which  turned  the  battery,  and  the  other  at 
tacked  it  in  front. 

|  Howe's  account  says,  there  were  two  divisions,  one  under  Grant, 
the  other  under  Knyphausen  ;  the  fourth  and  fifth  regiments  turned  the 
battery. — Trans. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

CHESTER FORT  BILLINGSPORT FORT    MIFFLIN REDBANK    FORT 

PHILADELPHIA. 

WHILST  we  were  examining  the  field  of  battle  with  the 
greatest  minuteness,  our  servants  went  on  to  Chester  to  pre 
pare  dinner  and  apartments,  but  we  soon  followed  them,  and 
got  there  at  four  o'clock.  The  road  did  not  appear  long  to 
me;  for  chance  having  separated  M.  de  la  Fayette,  M.  de 
Noailles,  and  myself  from  the  rest  of  the  company,  we  entered 
into  a  very  agreeable  conversation,  which  continued  till  we 
got  to  Chester.  I  could  not  help  observing  to  them  that  after 
talking  of  nothing  but  war  for  three  hours,  we  had  suddenly 
changed  the  subject,  and  got  on  that  of  Paris,  and  all  sorts  of 
discussions  relative  to  our  private  societies.  This  transition 
was  truly  French,  but  it  does  not  prove  that  we  are  less  fond 
of  war,  than  other  nations,  only  that  we  like  our  friends  better. 
We  were  scarcely  arrived  at  Chester,  before  we  saw  some  state 
barges  or  boats  coming  down  the  river,  which  the  president 
had  sent  to  conduct  us  back  to  Philadelphia,  it  being  our  plan 
to  remount  the  Delaware  next  day,  in  order  to  examine  the 
fort  of  Redbank,  and  fort  Mifflin,  as  well  as  the  other  posts 
which  had  served  for  the  defence  of  the  river.  An  officer  of 
the  American  navy  who  was  come  with  these  barges,  to  con 
duct  us,  informed  us  that  two  vessels  were  arrived  at  Philadel 
phia  in  thirty-five  days  from  L'Orient.  The  hopes  of  receiving 
letters,  or  news  from  Europe,  almost  tempted  us  to  relinquish 
our  projects,  and  set  out  immediately  for  Philadelphia  ;  but  as 
the  weather  was  fine,  and  we  should  have  the  tide  in  our  favour 
next  day,  which  rendered  our  voyage  more  easy,  we  determined 
to  remain  at  Chester,  and  M.  de  la  Fayette  sent  off  a  man  and 
a  horse  to  Philadelphia,  to  bring  back  news,  and  letters,  if 
there  were  any.  This  courier  returned  before  nine  ;  and  only 
brought  us  a  line  from  the  Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne,  by  which 
we  learnt  that  these  ships  had  no  letters  ;  but  that  the  captains 
assured  him,  that  Monsieur  de  Castries  was  made  minister  of 
the  marine. 

Whilst  the  courier  was  going  and  coming,  we  had  got  to  the 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA,  121 

inn,  where  dinner  and  lodgings  were  prepared.*  The  exterior 
of  this  house  is  not  very  tempting,  and  several  of  the  company 
were  preparing  to  look  out  elsewhere,  but  after  a  minute  ex 
amination,  we  found  room  enough  for  a  dozen  masters,  as  many 
servants,  and  nineteen  horses.  In  addition  to  our  company 
we  had  the  major,  who  met  us  on  the  field  of  battle  of  Bran- 
dywine,  and  the  officer  who  had  brought  us  the  barges.  We 
had  an  excellent  dinner,  and  very  good  wine.  The  tea  which 
followed  pretty  close  on  dinner  succeeded  as  well ;  so  that  all 
my  fellow-travellers,  were  in  the  best  humour,  and  so  gay  as 
never  to  cease  laughing,  singing,  and  dancing  during  the 
whole  evening.  The  people  of  the  house,  who  saw  nothing  in 
this  company  but  two  General  officers,  one  French,  the  other 
American,  accompanied  by  their  families,  and  not  a  society  of 
friends  joyous  to  meet  together  in  another  hemisphere,  could 
not  conceive  how  it  was  possible  to  be  so  gay  without  being 
drunk,  and  looked  upon  us  as  people  descended  from  the 
rnoon.  This  evening,  which  was  lengthened  to  eleven  o'clock, 
terminated  well,  for  we  had  excellent  beds,  such  as  one  might 
expect  to  find  in  a  well  furnished  country  house.  We  rose  at 
six  in  the  morning,  and  assembled  in  the  dining-room,  where  a 
good  breakfast  was  prepared  for  us  by  candle  light.  At  seven 
we  embarked,  and  crossing  the  Delaware,  obliquely  a  little 
higher  up,  we  landed  at  Billingsport.  This  is  a  fort  construct 
ed  in  1776,  to  support  the  left  of  the  first  barrier  of  the  che- 
vaux  de  frise,  destined  to  block  the  passage  of  the  river.  This 
post  was  of  no  use,  for  the  fortifications  having  been  com 
menced  on  too  extensive  a  plan  for  the  number  of  troops  which 
could  be  spared,  it  was  thought  proper  to  abandon  it.  They 
have  since  been  reduced,  which  is  the  better,  as  they  are  now 
removed  from  some  points  which  commanded  the  fort.  The 
present  situation  of  affairs,  not  drawing  the  attention  of  Ga- 
vernment  to  this  quarter,  the  fortifications  are  rather  neglect 
ed.  All  the  battery  there  was,  consisted  of  one  pretty  good 
brass  mortar,  and  five  eighteen  pounders,  (English  twenty- 
fours)  which  Major  Armstrong,  who  commands  on  the  river, 
and  came  to  receive  me,  fired  on  my  arrival.  When  America 
has  more  money,  and  leisure,  she  will  do  well  not  to  neglect 
this  post,  as  well  as  all  those  for  the  defence  of  the  river.  For 
this  war  once  terminated,  she  will  see  no  more  European  armies 
on  the  Continent,  and  all  she  can  have  to  fear  from  England, 
in  case  of  a  rupture  with  her,  will  be  a  few  maritime  expedi- 


*  Mrs.  Witby's  inn  at  Chester,  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  continent, 
and  a  favourite  house  for  parties  of  pleasure  from  Philadelphia. — 
Ttttns. 

16 


122  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

tions,  the  sole  object  of  which  can  be  to  destroy  shipping,  to 
ravage  the  country,  and  even  to  burn  the  towns  within  reach 
of  the  sea.  Unfortunately  Billingsport  belongs  to  the  state  of 
Jersey,  which  can  reap  no  advantage  from  it ;  and  that  of 
Pennsylvania,  whose  safety  it  would  constitute,  has  no  other 
means  to  employ  towards  fortifying  it  than  its  own  request,  and 
the  recommendations  of  Congress,  which  are  not  always  at 
tended  to.  However  this  may  be,  Philadelphia  took  other 
precautions  for  her  defence,  which  depended  only  on  the  state 
of  Pennsylvania,  and  to  this  advantage  is  united  that  of  an 
excellent  position,  which  will  soon  be  made  impregnable ;  I 
mean  Fort  Mifflin,  whither  we  went  on  leaving  Billingsport, 
still  ascending  the  river.  The  isle  on  which  it  is  built,  and 
that  called  Mud-Island,  support  the  right  of  a  second  barrier 
of  chevaux  de  frise,  the  left  of  which  is  defended  by  the  fort 
of  Red  Bank;*  but  it  must  be  observed  that  the  barrier  only 
blocked  the  main  channel  of  the  river,  the  only  passage  by 
which  it  was  thought  that  vessels  could  pass.f  Near  the  right 
bank  is  Hog-Island,  about  two  miles  long,  the  surface  of  which, 
like  that  of  most  of  the  islands  in  the  Delaware  is  so  low,  that 
at  high  water,  nothing  is  to  be  seen  but  the  tops  of  the  reeds 
with  which  it  is  covered.  Between  this  island,  and  the  main 
land,  a  small  passage  remained  open,  but  the  Americans  were 
persuaded  that  there  was  not  water  enough  for  any  ship  with 
guns  to  pass  it.  At  the  extremity  of  this  channel,  and  in 
remounting  it,  we  leave  on  the  left  a  marshy  ground,  so  sur 
rounded  by  creeks,  and  inlets,  as  to  form  a  real  island,  called 
Province-Island. {  This  post  was  in  the  possession  of  the 
enemy ;  who  established  batteries  there,  which  incommoded 
those  of  Fort  Mifflin,  but  not  sufficiently  to  make  the  Americans 
-abandon  it. 

The  English  army  were  at  that  time  in  a  singular  situation : 
they  had  purchased  and  maintained  possession  of  Philadelphia 
at  the  price  of  two  bloody  battles  ;  but  they  were  still  shut  up 
between  the  Schuylkill  and  the  Delaware,  having  in  their 


*  This  fort  too,  is  liable  to  the  same  difficulties  with  Billingsport, 
being  on  the  Jersey  side. — Trans. 

t  The  person  principally  employed  in  sinking  the  chevaux  de  frise, 
and  in  securing  the  passage  of  the  river,  was  one  White,  who  is  sup 
posed  to  have  left  this  channel  open  designedly,  as  he  afterwards  turn 
ed  out  a  decided  traitor,  went  over  to  the  enemy,  and  distinguished 
himself  by  every  act  of  hostile  virulence  against  his  country. —  Trans. 

|  This  is  one  of  the  richest  spots  of  land  in  America,  and  being  part 
of  the  proprietary  estate,  was  parcelled  out,  and  sold  in  lots  by  the 
Assembly  of  the  State. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  123 

front  Washington's  army,  which  kept  them  in  awe,  and  behind 
them  several  forts  occupied  by  the  Americans,  which  shut  the 
passage  of  the  Delaware.     A  large  city,  however,  and  a  whole 
army  must  have  subsistence ;  it  became  necessary  therefore 
to  open  the  communication  by  sea,  and  to  secure  the  naviga 
tion  of  the  river.     When  one  recollects  the  innumerable  ob 
stacles  the  English  had  to  surmount  in  the  present  war,  it  is 
difficult  to  assign  the  cause  of  their  successes;  but  if  we  turn 
our  eyes  on  all  the  unforeseen  events  which  have  deceived  the 
expectation  of  the  Americans,  and  frustrated  their  best  con 
certed  measures,  one  cannot  but  be  persuaded  that  they  were 
devoted   to  destruction,  and  that  the   alliance   with  France 
alone  proved  the  means  of  their  preservation.     In  this  voyage, 
in  particular,  I  saw  fresh  proofs  of  it  every  instant.     When  the 
place  was  pointed  out  to  me  where  the  .Augusta,  of  sixty-four 
guns,  took  fire,  and  blew  up  in  attempting  to  force  the  chevaux 
de  frise,  and  farther,  on  the  remains  of  the  Merlin,  of  two  and 
twenty,  which  ran  ashore  in  the  same  action,  and  was  burnt 
by  the  English  themselves,  whilst  the  Hessians  were  vainly 
sacrificing  five  or  six  hundred  men  before  the  fort  of  Red- 
bank,  I  figured  to  myself  the  English  army  starved  in  Philadel 
phia,  retreating  with  disgrace  and  difficulty  through  the  Jer 
seys,  and  my  imagination  already  enjoyed   the  triumph   of 
America.     But  of  a  sudden  the  scene  changed,  and  I  saw 
nothing  but  the  fatality  which  collected  towards  the  channel 
of  Hog-Island  the  waters  long  confined  by  the  chevaux  de 
frise,  and  recollected  with  pain,  that  on  the  15th  of  Novem 
ber,  three  weeks  after  the  fruitless  attempts  I  have  mentioned, 
the  English  succeeded  in  passing  over  the  bar  of  this  channel, 
the  Vigilant,  and  another  small  ship  of  war ;  that  they  thus  got 
up  the  river,  and  turned  Fort  Mifflin,  the  batteries  of  which 
they  took  from  behind,  and  left  the  Americans  no  other  re 
source  but  to  abandon  the  defence  of  the  chevaux  de  frise  in 
all  parts,  and  make  a  precipitate  retreat  by  the  left  shore  of 
the  Delaware. 

Taught  by  sad  experience,  the  Americans  have  provided  in 
future  against  the  misfortunes  which  cost  them  so  dear.  I  saw 
them  with  pleasure  extending  the  fortifications  of  Mifflin's- 
Island,  so  as  to  enclose  the  fort  on  every  side,  which  will  be 
surrounded  also  by  the  Delaware  in  place  of  a  ditch  ;  and  as 
the  garrison  will  have  a  safe  asylum  in  sou  terrains,  bomb-proof, 
this  fort  may  henceforth  be  deemed  impregnable.  The  plan 
of  these  works  was  given  by  M.  du  Portail  ;  Major  Armstrong 
showed  me  them  upon  the  spot,  and  I  found  them  correspond 
perfectly  with  the  just  reputation  of  their  author. 

We  now  had  to  visit  Redbank  ;  for  which  purpose  we  had 
again  to  cross  the  Delaware,  which  in  this  place  is  a  mile 


124  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

The  gentleman  who  was  to  do  the  honour  there/ was  impatient 
to  arrive.     We  had  amused  ourselves  by  telling  him  that  the 
morning  being  far  spent,  and  the  tide  about  to  turn,  we  should 
be  obliged  to  omit  Redbank,  and  return  directly  to  Philadel 
phia.     This  conductor,  whom  we  diverted  ourselves  in  torment 
ing,  was  M.  du  Plessis  Mauduft,  who  in  the  double  capacity  of 
engineer,  and  officer  of  artillery,  had  the  charge  of  arranging 
and  defending  this  post,  under  the  orders  of  Colonel  Green. 
On  landing  from  our  boat,  he  proposed  conducting  us   to  a 
Quaker's,  whose  house  is  half  a  musket  shot  from  the  fort,  or 
rather  the  ruins  of  the  fort ;  for  it  is  now  destroyed,  and  there 
are  scarcely  any  reliefs  of  it  remaining.     "  This  man,  said  M. 
de  Mauduit,  is  a  little  of  a  tory  ;  1  was  obliged  to  knock  down 
his  barn,  and  fell  his  fruit  trees  ;  but  he  will  be  glad  to  see  M. 
de  la  Fayette,  and  will  receive  us  well."     We  took  him  at  his 
word,  but  never  was  expectation  more  completely  deceived. 
We  found  our  Quaker  seated  in  the  chimney  corner,  busied  in 
cleaning  herbs  :  he  recollected  M.  de  Mauduit,  who  named  M. 
de  la  Fayette,  and  me,  to  him  ;  but  he  did  not  deign  to  lift  his 
eyes,  nor  to  answer  any  of  our  introducer's  discourse,  which  at 
first  was  complimentary,  and  at  length  jocose.     Except  Dido's 
silence,  I  know  nothing  more  severe,  but  we  had  no  difficulty  in 
accommodating  ourselves  to  this  bad  reception,  and  made  our 
way  to  the  fort.     We  had  not  gone  a  hundred  yards  before  we 
came  to  a  small  elevation,  on  which  a  stone  was  vertically  pla 
ced,  with  this  short  epitaph  :  here  lies  buried  Colonel  Donop. 
M.  de  Mauduit  could  not  refrain  from  expressing  his  regret 
for  this  brave  man,  who  died  in  his  arms  two  days  after  the  ac 
tion  ;  he  assured  us  that  we  could  not  make  a  step  without 
treading  on  the  remains  of  some  Hessians  ;  for  near  three  hun 
dred  were  buried  in  the  front  of  the  ditch. 

The  fort  of  Redbank  was  designed,  as  I  have  said  above,  to 
support  the  left  of  the  chevaux  de  frise.  The  bank  of  the  Dela 
ware  at  this  place  is  steep ;  but  even  this  steepness  allowed 
the  enemy  to  approach  the  fort,  under  cover,  and  without  be 
ing  exposed  to  the  fire  of  the  batteries.  To  remedy  this  incon 
venience,  several  gallies  armed  with  cannon,  and  destined  to 
defend  the  chevaux  de  frise,  were  posted  the  whole  length  of 
the  escarpement,  and  took  it  in  reverse.  The  Americans,  little 
practised  in  the  art  of  fortifications,  and  always  disposed  to 
take  works  beyond  their  strength,  had  made  those  of  Redbank 
too  extensive.  When  M.  de  Mauduit  obtained  permission  to 
be  sent  thither  with  Colonel  Green,  he  immediately  set  about 
reducing  the  fortifications,  by  intersecting  them  from  east  to 
west,  which  transformed  them  into  a  sort  of  large  redoubt  near 
ly  of  a  pentagonal  form.  A  good  earthen  rampart,  raised  to 
the  height  of  the  cordon,  a  fosse,  and  an  abattis  in  front  of  the 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  J&? 

fosse,  constituted  the  whole  strength  of  this  post,  in  which 
were  placed  three  hundred  men*  and  fourteen  pieces  of  cannon. 
The  22d  of  October,  in  the  morning,  they  received  intelligence 
that  a  detachment  of  two  thousand  five  hundred  Hessians  were 
advancing ;  who  were  soon  after  perceived  on  the  edge  of 
a  wood  to  the  north  of  Redbank,  nearly  within  cannon  shot. 
Preparations  were  making  for  the  defence,  when  a  Hessian 
officer  advanced,  preceded  by  a  drum  ;  he  was  suffered  to  ap 
proach,  but  his  harangue  was  so  insolent  that  it  only  served 
to  irritate  the  garrison,  and  inspire  them  with  more  resolu 
tion.  "  The  King  of  England,  said  he,  orders  his  rebellious  sub 
jects  to  lay  down  their  arms,  and  they  are  warned,  that  if  they  stand 
the  battle,  no  quarters  whatever  will  be  given."  The  answer  was, 
that  they  accepted  the  challenge,  and  that  there  should  be  no 
quarter  on  either  side.  At  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  the 
Hessians  made  a  very  brisk  fire  from  a  battery  of  cannon,  and 
soon  after  they  opened,  and  marched  to  the  first  entrenchment, 
from  which,  finding  it  abandoned,  but  not  destroyed,  they  ima 
gined  they  had  driven  the  Americans.  They  then  shouted  vic 
toria,  waved  their  hats  in  the  air,  and  advanced  towards  the 
redoubt.  The  same  drummer,  who  a  few  hours  before  had 
come  to  summon  the  garrison,  and  had  appeared  as  insolent  as 
his  officer,  was  at  their  head  beating  the  march  ;  both  he,  and 
that  officer  were  knocked  on  the  head  by  the  first  fire.  The 
Hessians,  however,  still  kept  advancing  within  the  first  en 
trenchment,  leaving  the  river  on  their  right  :  they  had  already 
reached  the  abattis,  and  were  endeavouring  to  tear  up,  or  cut 
away  the  branches,  when  they  were  overwhelmed  with  a  show 
er  of  musket  shot,  which  took  them  in  front,  and  in  flank  ;  for 
as  chance  would  have  it,  a  part  of  the  courtine  of  the  old  en 
trenchment,  which  had  not  been  destroyed,  formed  a  projec 
tion  at  this  very  part  of  the  intersection.  M.  de  Mauduit  had 
contrived  to  form  it  into  a  sort  of  caponiere,  (or  trench  with 
loop-holes)  into  which  he  threw  some  men,  who  flanked  the 
enemy's  left,  and  fired  on  them  at  close  shot.  Officers  were 
seen  every  moment  rallying  their  men,  marching  back  to  the 
abattis,  and  falling  amidst  trie  branches  they  were  endeavour 
ing  to  cut.  Colonel  Donop  was  particularly  distinguished  by 
the  marks  of  the  order  he  wore,  by  his  handsome  figure,  and  by 
his  courage  ;  he  was  also  seen  to  fall  like  the  rest.  The  Hes 
sians,  repulsed  by  the  fire  of  the  redoubt,  attempted  to  secure 
themselves  from  it  by  attacking  on  the  side  of  the  escarpement, 
but  the  fire  from  the  gallies  sent  them  back  with  a  great  loss  of 


General  Howe  calls  them  about  800  men, — Trans-. 

• 


126  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA 

men.     At  length  they  relinquished  the  attack,  and  regained  the 
wood  in  disorder. 

While  this  was  passing  on  the  north  side,  another  column 
made  an  attack  on  the  south,  and,  more  fortunate  than  the 
other,  passed  the  abattis,  traversed  the  fosse,  and  mounted  the 
berm ;  but  they  were  stopped  by  the  fraises,  and  M.  de  Mauduit 
running  to  this  post  as  soon  as  he  saw  the  first  assailants  give 
way,  the  others  were  obliged  to  follow  their  example.  They 
still  did  not  dare  however  to  stir  out  of  the  fort,  fearing  a  sur 
prise;  but  M.  de  Mauduit  wishing  to  replace  some  palisades 
which  had  been  torn  up ;  he  sallied  out  with  a  few  men,  and 
was  surprised  to  find  about  twenty  Hessians  standing  on  the 
berm,  and  stuck  up  against  the  shelving  of  the  parapet.  These 
soldiers  who  had  been  bold  enough  to  advance  thus  far,  sensi 
ble  that  there  was  more  risk  in  returning,  and  not  thinking 
proper  to  expose  themselves,  were  taken  and  brought  into  the 
fort.  M.  de  Mauduit,  after  fixing  the  palisades,  employed  him 
self  in  repairing  the  abattis ;  he  again  sallied  out  with  a  de 
tachment,  and  it  was  then  he  beheld  the  deplorable  spectacle 
of  the  dead  and  dying,  heaped  one  upon  another.  A  voice 
arose  from  amidst  these  carcases,  and  said  in  English, 
"whoever  you  are,  draw  me  hence."  It  was  the  voice  of  Co 
lonel  Donop :  M.  de  Mauduit  made  the  soldiers  lift  him  up,  and 
carry  him  into  the  fort,  where  he  was  soon  known.  He  had 
his  hip  broken  ;  but  whether  they  did  not  consider  his  wound 
as  mortal,  or  that  they  were  heated  by  the  battle,  and  still  irri 
tated  at  the  menaces  thrown  out  against  them  a  few  hours  be 
fore,  the  Americans  could  not  help  saying,  aloud :  "  Well !  is  it 
determined  to  give  no  quarter  *?"  "  I  am  in  your  hands,"  re 
plied  the  colonel,  "you  may  revenge  yourselves."  M.  de 
Mauduit  had  no  difficulty  in  imposing  silence,  and  employed 
himself  only  in  taking  care  of  the  wounded  officer.  The  latter, 
perceiving  he  spoke  bad  English,  said  to  him :  "  you  appear  to 
me  a  foreigner,  Sir,  who  are  you'?"  "  A  French  officer,"  replied 
the  other.  "  Je  suis  content"  said  Donop,  making  use  of  our 
language,  "je  meurs  entre  lea  mains  de  Vhonneur  meme."  I  am  con 
tent  ;  I  die  in  the  hands  of  honour  itself.  The  next  day  he 
was  removed  to  the  quaker's  house,  where  he  lived  three  days, 
during  which  he  conversed  frequently  with  M.  de  Mauduit.  He 
told  him  that  he  had  been  long  in  friendship  with  M.  de  Saint 
Germain,  that  he  wished  in  dying  to  recommend  to  him  his 
vanquisher,  and  benefactor.  He  asked  for  paper,,  and  wrote 
a  letter,  which  he  delivered  to  M.  de  Mauduit,  requiring  of  him, 
as  the  last  favour,  to  acquaint  him  when  he  was  about  to  dis : 
the  latter  was  soon  under  the  necessity  of  acquitting  himself 
of  this  sad  duty  :  "it  is  finishing  a  noble  career  early,"  said  the 
colonel;  "  but  I  die  the  victim  of  my  ambition,  and  of  the  ava- 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  127 

rice  of  my  sovereign."  Fifteen  wounded  officers  were  found, 
like  him,  upon  the  field  of  battle  ;  M.  deMauduit  had  the  satis 
faction  to  conduct  them  himself  to  Philadelphia,  where  he  was 
very  well  received  by  General  Howe.  By  singular  accident, 
it  happened  that  the  English  that  very  day  received  indirect 
intelligence  of  the  capitulation  of  Burgoyne,  of  which  he  knew 
more  than  they.  They  pretended  to  give  no  credit  to  it: 
"  you  who  are  a  Frenchman,"  said  they,  "  speak  freely,  do  you 
think  it  possible  9"  "  I  know,"  replied  he,  "  that  the  fact  is  so ; 
explain  it  as  you  think  proper." 

Perhaps  1  have  dwelt  too  long  on  this  event ;  but  I  shall  not 
have  to  apologize  to  those  who  will  partake  of  the  pleasing  sa 
tisfaction  I  experience,  in  fixing  my  eyes  upon  the  triumphs  of 
America,  and  in  discovering  my  countrymen  among  those 
who  have  reaped  her  laurels.  At  present  I  hasten  my  return 
to  Philadelphia,  where,  on  my  arrival,  I  had  only  time  to  dress 
myself  to  attend  the  Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne,  and  the  com 
panions  of  my  journey,  to  dinner  at  Mr.  Huntington's,  the  pre 
sident  of  Congress.  Mrs.  Huntington,  a  good  looking,  lusty 
woman,  but  not  young,  did  the  honours  of  the  table,  that  is  to 
say,  helped  every  body  without  saying  a  word.  I  did  not  re 
main  long  after  dinner,  having  a  little  snug  rendezvous,  which 
I  was  not  inclined  to  miss.  The  reader  will  think  it  time  for 
me  to  throw  some  variety  into  this  journal ;  but  I  am  obliged 
to  confess  that  this  rendezvous  was  .with  Mr.  Samuel  Adams. 
We  had  promised  ourselves  at  our  last  interview  to  set  an  eve 
ning  apart  for  a  tranquil  tete-a-tete,  and  this  was  the  day  ap 
pointed.  Our  conversation  commenced  with  a  topic  of  which 
he  might  have  spared  himself  the  discussion ;  the  justice  of 
the  cause  he  was  engaged  in.  I  am  clearly  of  opinion  that 
the  parliament  of  England  had  no  right  to  tax  America  without 
her  consent,  but  I  am  more  clearly  convinced  that  when  a 
whole  people  say  we  will  be  free,  it  is  difficult  to  demonstrate 
they  are  in  the  wrong.  Be  that  as  it  may,  Mr.  Adams  very 
satisfactorily  proved  to  me,  that  New-England,  comprehend 
ing  the  stares  of  Massachusetts,  New-Hampshire,  Connecticut, 
and  Rhode-Island,  were  not  peopled  with  any  view  to  com 
merce  and  aggrandizement,  but  wholly  by  individuals  who  fled 
from  persecution,  and  sought  an  asylum  at  the  extremity  of  the 
world,  where  they  might  be  free  to  live,  and  follow  their  opi 
nions;  that  it  was  of  their  own  accord,  that  those  new  colo 
nists  put  themselves  under  the  protection  of  England;  that 
the  mutual  relationship,  springing  from  this  connexion,  was 
expressed  in  their  charters,  and  that  the  right  of  imposing,  or 
exacting  a  revenue  of  any  kind  was  not  comprised  in  them. 

From  this  subject  we  passed  to  a  more  interesting  one  ;  the 
form  of  government  which  should  be  given  to  each  state  ;  for 


128  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

it  is  only  on  account  of  the  future,  that  it  is  necessary  to  take 
a  retrospect  of  the  past.  The  revolution  has  taken  place,  and 
the  republic  is  beginning  ;  it  is  an  infant  newly  born,  the  ques 
tion  is  how  to  nourish,  and  rear  it  to  maturity.  I  expressed  to 
Mr.  Adams  some  anxiety  for  the  foundations  on  which  the  new 
constitutions  are  formed,  and  particularly  that  of  Massachu 
setts.  Every  citizen,  said  I,  every  man  who  pays  taxes,  has  a 
right  to  vote  in  the  election  of  representatives,  who  form  the 
legislative  body,  and  who  may  be  called  the  sovereign  power. 
All  this  is  very  well  for  the  present  moment,  because  every 
citizen  is  pretty  equally  at  his  ease,  or  may  be  so  in  a  short 
time,  but  the  success  of  commerce,  and  even  of  agriculture, 
will  introduce  riches  among  you,  and  riches  will  produce 
inequality  of  fortunes,  and  of  property.  Now,  wherever  this 
inequality  exists,  the  real  force  will  invariably  be  on  the  side 
of  property  ;  so  that  if  the  influence  in  government  be  not  pro 
portioned  to  that  property,  there  will  always  be  a  contrariety, 
a  combat  between  the  form  of  government,  and  its  natural  ten 
dency,  the  right  will  be  on  one  side,  and  the  power  on  the 
other  ;  the  balance  then  only  can  exist  between  the  two  equally- 
dangerous  extremes,  of  aristocracy  and  anarchy.  Besides, 
the  ideal  worth  of  men  must  ever  be  comparative  :  an  indivi 
dual  without  property  is  a  discontented  citizen,  when  the  state 
is  poor  ;  place  a  rich  man  near  him,  he  dwindles  into  a  clown. 
What  will  result  then,  one  day,  from  vesting  the  right  of  elec 
tion  in  this  class  of  citizens  ^  The  source  of  civil  broils,  or 
corruption,  perhaps  both  at  the  same  time.  The  following 
was  pretty  nearly  the  answer  of  Mr.  Adams.  I  am  very 
sensible  of  the  force  of  your  objections ;  we  are  not  what  we 
should  be,  we  should  labour  rather  for  the  future,  than  for  the 
present  moment.  I  build  a  country  house,  and  have  infant 
children  ;  I  ought  doubtless  to  construct  their  apartments  with 
an  eye  to  the  time  in  which  they  shall  be  grown  up  and  mar 
ried  :  but  we  have  not  neglected  this  precaution.  In  the  first 
place,  I  must  inform  you,  that  this  new  constitution  was  pro 
posed  and  agreed  to  in  the  most  legitimate  manner  of  which 
there  is  any  example  since  the  days  of  Lycurgus.  A  commit 
tee  chosen  from  the  members  of  the  legislative  body,  then  ex 
isting,  and  which  might  be  considered  as  a  provisional  govern 
ment,  was  named  to  prepare  a  new  code  of  laws.  As  soon  as 
it  was  prepared,  each  county  or  district  was  required  to  name 
a  committee  to  examine  this  plan  :  it  was  recommended  to 
them  to  send  it  back  at  the  expiration  of  a  certain  time,  with 
their  observations.  These  observations  having  been  discussed 
by  the  committee,  and  the  necessary  alterations  made,  the 
plan  was  sent  back  to  each  particular  committee.  When  they 
had  all  approved  it,  they  received  orders  to  communicate  it  to 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  129 

the  people  at  large,  and  to  demand  their  suffrages.  If  two- 
thirds  of  the  voters  approved  it,  it  was  to  have  the  force  of  law, 
and  be  regarded  as  the  work  of  the  people  themselves;  of  two 
and  twenty  thousand  suffrages,  a  much  greater  proportion  than 
two-thirds  was  in  favour  of  the  new  constitution.  Now  these 
were  the  principles  on  which  it  was  established :  a  state  is 
never  free  but  when  each  citizen  is  bound  by  no  law  whatever 
that  he  has  not  approved  of,  either  by  himself,  or  by  his  repre 
sentatives  ;  but  to  represent  another  man,  it  is  necessary  to 
have  been  elected  by  him ;  every  citizen  therefore  should  have 
a  part  in  elections.  On  the  other  hand,  it  would  be  in  vain 
for  the  people  to  possess  the  right  of  electing  representatives, 
were  they  restrained  in  the  choice  of  them  to  a  particular  class  ; 
it  is  necessary  therefore  not  to  require  too  much  property  as  a 
qualification  for  the  representative  of  the  people.  Accordingly 
the  house  of  representatives  which  form  the  legislative  body, 
and  the  true  sovereign,  are  the  people  themselves  represented  by 
their  delegates.  Thus  far  the  government  is  purely  democra- 
tical  ;  but  it  is  the  permanent  and  enlightened  will  of  the  peo 
ple  which  should  constitute  law,  and  not  the  passions  and  sal 
lies  to  which  they  are  too  subject.  It  is  necessary  to  moderate 
their  first  emotions,  and  bring  them  to  the  test  of  inquiry  and 
reflection.  This  is  the  important  business  entrusted  with  the 
Governor  and  Senate,  who  represent  with  us  the  negative  pow 
er,  vested  in  England  in  the  upper-house,  and  even  in  the 
crown,  with  this  difference  only,  that  in  our  new  constitution 
the  senate  has  a  right  to  reject  a  law,  and  the  governor  to  sus 
pend  the  promulgation,  and  return  it  for  a  reconsideration  ; 
but  these  forms  complied  with,  if,  after  this  fresh  examination, 
the  people  persist  in  their  resolution,  and  there  is  then,  not  as 
before,  a  mere  majority,  but  two  thirds  of  the  suffrages  in  fa 
vour  of  the  law,  the  governor  and  senate  are  compelled  to  give 
it  their  sanction.  Thus  this  power  moderates,  without  destroy 
ing  the  authority  of  the  people,  and  such  is  the  organization  of 
our  republic,  as  to  prevent  the  springs  from  breaking  by  too 
rapid  a  movement,  without  ever  stopping  them  entirely.  Now. 
it  is  here  we  have  given  all  its  weight  to  property.  A  man 
must  have  a  pretty  considerable  property  to  vote  for  a  member 
of  the  senate  ;  he  must  have  a  more  considerable  one  to  be 
himself  eligible.  Thus  the  democracy  is  pure  and  entire  in  the 
assembly,  which  represents  the  sovereign  ;  and  the  aristocracy, 
or,  if  you  will,  the  optimacy,  is  to  be  found  only  in  the  modera 
ting  power,  where  it  is  the  more  necessary,  as  men  never  watch 
more  carefully  over  the  state  than  when  they  have  a  great  in 
terest  in  its  destiny.  As  to  the  power  of  commanding  armies, 
it  ought  neither  to  be  vested  in  a  great,  nor  even  in  a  small 
number  of  men  :  the  governor  alone  can  employ  the  forces  by 

1 7 


130  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

sea  and  land  according  to  the  necessity ;  but  the  land  forces 
will  consist  only  in  the  militia,  which,  as  it  is  composed  of  the 
people  themselves,  can  never  act  against  the  people.* 

Such  was  the  idea  Mr.  Adams  gave  me  of  his  own  work,f 
for  it  is  he  who  had  the  greatest  part  in  the  formation  of  the 
new  laws.  It  is  said,  however,  that  before  his  credit  was  em 
ployed  to  get  them  accepted,  it  was  necessary  to  combat  his 
private  opinion,  and  to  make  him  abandon  systems  in  which  he 
loved  to  stray,  for  less  sublime,  but  more  practicable  projects. 
This  citizen,  otherwise  so  respectable,  has  been  frequently  re 
proached  with  consulting  his  library,  rather  than  the  present 
circumstances,  and  of  always  beginning  by  the  Greeks  and 
Romans,  to  get  at  the  whigs  and  tories;  if  this  be  true,  I  shall 
only  say  that  study  has  also  its  inconveniences,  but  not  such  as 
are  important,  since  Mr.  Samuel  Adams,  heretofore  the  enemy 
of  regular  troops,  and  the  most  extravagant  partisan  of  the 
democracy,  at  present  employs  all  his  influence  to  maintain 
an  army,  and  to  establish  a  mixed  government.  Be  that  as  it 
may,  I  departed  well  content  with  this  conversation,  which  was 
only  interrupted  by  a  glass  of  Madeira,  a  dish  of  tea,  and  an 
old  American  General,  now  a  member  of  Congress,  who  lodges 
with  Mr.  Adams. 

I  knew  that  there  was  a  ball  at  the  Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne'sr 
which  made  me  less  in  a  hurry  to  return  thither  :  it  was,  how 
ever,  a  very  agreeable  assembly  ;  for  it  was  given  to  a  private 
society,  on  the  occasion  of  a  marriage.  There  were  near  twen 
ty  women,  twelve  or  fourteen  of  whom  were  dancers ;  each 
of  them  having  her  partner,  as  is  the  custom  in  America. 
Dancing  is  said  to  be  at  once  the  emblem  of  gaiety  and  of  love ; 
here  it  seems  to  be  the  emblem  of  legislation,  and  of  marriage  ; 
of  legislation,  inasmuch  as  places  are  marked  out,  the  country 
dances  named,  and  every  proceeding  provided  for,  calculated 
and  submitted  to  regulation  ;  of  marriage,  as  it  furnishes  each 


*  As  there  appears  to  be  some  little  inaccuracy  in  this  account  of 
the  conversation,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  Constitution  of  the  Mas 
sachusetts,  as  republished  in  England  with  those  of  the  other  states, 
where  he  will  see  the  respective  privileges  and  powers  of  the  Senate 
and  Governor  and  Council  clearly  discriminated,  which  are  here  con 
founded.  The  Translator  has  endeavoured  to  free  the  original  from 
its  obscurity,  the  Senate  being  there  wholly  overlooked,  and  its  duties 
blended  with  those  of  the  Governor  and  Council  ;  and  materially  to 
preserve  the  drift  of  Mr.  Adams'  argument. —  Trans. 

t  I  have  some  reason  to  think  that  the  admirable  form  of  govern 
ment  for  Massachusetts  Bay,  is  not  the  work  of  Mr.  Samuel  Adams, 
but  of  Mr.  John  Adams,  the  present  Minister  Plenipotentiary  from 
the  United  States,  in  England.— Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH  AMERICA.  1:11 

.  lady  with  a  partner,  with  whom  she  dances  the  whole  evening, 
without  being  allowed  to  take  another.     It  is  true  that  every 
severe  law  requires  mitigation,  and  that  it  often  happens,  that 
a  young  lady  after  dancing  the  two  or  three  first  dances  with 
her  partner,  may  make  a  fresh  choice,  or  accept  of  the  invitation 
she  has  received  ;  but  still  the  comparison  holds  good,  for  it  is 
a  marriage  in  the  European  fashion.     Strangers  have  generally 
the  privilege   of  being  complimented   with   the   handsomest 
women.     The  Comte  de  Darnes,  had  Mrs.  Bingham  for  his 
partner,  and  the  Vicomte  de  Noailles,  Miss  Shippen.     Both  of 
them,  like  true  philosophers,  testified  a  great  respect  for  the 
manners  of  the  country,  by  not  quitting  their  handsome  part 
ners   the  whole   evening ;    in  other   respects   they  were  the 
admiration  of  all  the  assembly,  from  the  grace  and  nobleness 
with  which  they  danced  ;  I  may  even  assert,  to  the  honour  of 
rny  country,  that  they  surpassed  a  Chief-Justice  of  Carolina 
(Mr.  Pendleton)  and  two  members  of  Congress,  one  of  whom 
(Mr.  Duane)  passed  however  for  being  by  10  per  cent,  more 
lively  than  all  the  other  dancers.     The  ball  was  suspended, 
towards  midnight,  by  a  supper,  served  in  the  manner  of  coffee, 
on  several  different  tables.     On  passing  into  the  dining-room, 
the  Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne  presented  his  hand  to  Mrs.  Morris, 
and  gave  her  the  precedence,  an   honour  pretty   generally 
bestowed  on  her,  as  she  is  the  richest  woman  in  the  city,  and 
all  ranks  here  being  equal,  men  follow  their  natural  bent,  by 
giving  the  preference  to  riches.     The  ball  continued  till  two 
in  the  morning,  as  I  learnt  the  next  morning  on  rising,  for  I  had 
seen  too  many  attacks  and  battles  the  day  before  not  to  have 
learnt  to  make  a  timely  retreat. 

Our  young  folks  standing  in  need  of  repose  after  their  journey 
arid  exercise  of  the  evening,  did  not  appear  at  breakfast,  In 
their  stead,  we  had  an  old  quaker  of  the  name  of  Benezet, 
whose  diminutive  figure,  and  humble  and  scanty  physiognomy, 
formed  a  perfect  contrast  to  Mr.  Pendleton.  This  Mr  Benezet 
may  rather  be  regarded  as  the  model,  than  as  a  specimen  of 
the  sect  of  quakers  :  wholly  occupied  with  the  welfare  of  man 
kind,  his  charity  and  generosity  made  him  be  held  in  great 
consideration  in  happier  times,  when  the  virtues  alone  sufficed 
to  render  the  citizen  illustrious.  At  present  the  noise  of  arms 
deafens  the  ears  against  -the  sighs  of  charity,  and  the  amor 
patriac  has  prevailed  over  the  love  of  humanity.  Benezet, 
however,  still  exercises  his  benevolence  :  he  came  to  get  some 
information  respecting  the  new  methods  invented  in  France 
of  restoring  drowned  persons  to  life.  I  promised  not  only  to 
send  them  to  him  from  Newport,  but  to  transmit  to  him  such 
a  box,  with  the  necessaries,  as  our  government  has  distributed 
in  the  sea-port  towns.  Confidence  being  established  between 


|:«  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

us,  we  fell  on  the  topic  of  the  miseries  of  war.     "  Friend,  say> 
lie  to  me,  I  know  thou  art  a  man  of  letters,  and  a  member  of 
the  French  Academy  :  the  men  of  letters  have  written  a  great 
many  good  things  of  late  ;  they  have  attacked  errors  and  pre 
judices,  and,  above  all,  intolerance;   will  ti.ey  not  endeavour 
too,  to  disgust  men  with  the  horrors  of  war,  and  to  make  them 
live  together  like  friends  and  brethren  ?"     "  Thou  art  not  de 
ceived,  friend,  replied  I,  when  thou  buildest  some  hope  on  the 
progress  of  enlightened  philosophy.     Many  active  hands  are 
labouring  at  the  grand  edifice  of  public  happiness  ;  but  vainly 
will  they  employ  themselves  in  finishing  some  parts  of  it,  as 
long  as  there  is  a  deficiency  at  the  base,  and  that  base,  thou 
hast  said  it,  is  universal  peace.     As  for  intolerance  and  perse 
cution,  it  is  true  that  these  two  enemies  of  the  human  race,  are 
not  bound  by  strong  enough  chains  ;  but  I  will  whisper  a  word 
in  thy  ear,  of  which  thou  wilt  not  perhaps  feel  all  the  force, 
though  thou  art  well  acquainted  with  the  French ;  they  are  out 
of  fashion;  I  should  even  believe  them  to  be  on  the  point  of 
annihilation,  but  for  some  little  circumstances  thou  art  not 
informed  of;  which  are,  that  they  who  attack  them  are  now  and 
then  imprisoned,  and  Abbies  of  a  hundred  thousand  livres  a  year 
bestowed  on  such  as  favour  them."     "  A  hundred  thousand  livres 
a  year  !  cried  Benezet,  there  is  wherewithal  to  build  hospitals 
and  establish  manufactures  ;   this  doubtless  is  the  use  they 
make  of  their  riches."     "  No,  friend,  replied  I,  persecution 
must  be  kept  in  pay  ;  though  it  must  be  confessed  that  it  is 
but  indifferently  paid,  for  the  most  splendid  of  these  perse 
cutors  content  themselves  with  giving  a  pension  of  ten  or 
twelve  hundred  livres  to  a  few  satirical  poets,  or  journalists, 
enemies  of  letters,  whose  works  are  greatly  read,  but  little 
sold." — "  Friend,  says  the  quaker,  this  persecution  is  a  strange 
thing :  I  can  hardly  believe  what  has  happened  to  myself. 
My  father  was  a  Frenchman,  and  I  am  a  native  of  thy  coun 
try.     It  is  now  sixty  years,  since  he  was  obliged  to  seek  an 
asylum  in  England,  taking  with  him  his  children,  the  only 
treasure  he  could  save  in  his  misfortunes.     Justice,  or  what  is 
so  called  in  thy  country,  ordered  him  to  be  hung  in  effigy,  for 
explaining  the  gospel  differently  from  thy  priests.     My  father 
was  not  much  better  pleased  with  those  of  England ;  wishing 
to  get  out  of  the  way  of  all  hierarchy,  he  came  and  settled  in 
this  country,  where  I  led  a  happy  life  until  this  war  broke 
out.     I  have  long  forgot  all  the  persecutions  my  family  under 
went.     I  love  thy  nation,  because  it  is  mild  and  sensible,  and 
as  for  thee,  friend,  I  know  that  thou  servest  humanity  as  much 
as  in  thy  power.     When  thou  shalt  get  to  Europe,  engage  thy 
brethren  to  second  thee,  and,  in  the  mean  time,  permit  me  to 
place  under  thy  protection  our  brethren  of  Rhode-Island."    He 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  133 

then  recommended  to  me  specifically  the  quakers  living  in 
that  state,  and  who  are  pretty  numerous  ;  after  which  he  took 
leave,  desiring  my  permission  to  send  me  some  pamphlets,  in  his 
way,  which  were  principally  apologies  for  his  sect.  I  assured 
him  I  would  read  them  with  great  pleasure,  and  he  did  not  fail 
to  send  them  the  next  morning. 

Of  whatever  sect  a  man  may  be  who  is  inflamed  with  an 
ardent  love  of  humanity,  he  is  undoubtedly  a  respectable  be 
ing  ;  but  I  must  confess  that  it  is  difficult  to  bestow  upon  this 
sect  in  general,  that  esteem  which  cannot  be  refused  to  some 
individuals.  The  law  observed  by  many  of  them,  of  saying 
neither  yow,  nor  sir,  is  far  from  giving  them  a  tone  of  simpli 
city  and  candour.  I  know  not  whether  it  be  to  compensate 
for  that  sort  of  rusticity,  that  they  in  general  assume  a  smooth 
and  wheedling  tone,  which  is  altogether  Jesuitical.  Nor  does 
their  conduct  belie  this  resemblance  :  concealing  their  indif 
ference  for  the  public  welfare  under  the  cloak  of  religion,  they 
are  sparing  of  blood,  it  is  true,  especially  of  their  own  peo 
ple  ;*  but  they  trick  both  parties  out  of  their  money,  and  that 


*  In  confirmation  of  this  remark,  I  cannot  avoid  referring  to  a  cir 
cumstance  which  made  a  considerable  noise  at  the  time,  and  has  been 
grossly  perverted  to  the  discredit  of  American  humanity.  Every  reader 
attentive  to  the  events  of  the  war  in  that  country,  must  recollect  the 
execution  of  Carlisle  and  Roberts,  two  considerable  quakers,  after  the 
evacuation  of  Philadelphia  by  General  Clinton  ;  the  barbarity  of  put 
ting  to  death  two  members  of  a  sect  so  peaceable  and  inoffensive,  who 
had  not  borne  arms,  and  whose  principles  forbid  an  active  opposition 
to  any  form  of  government,  was  much  enlarged  upon.  In  justice  to 
America,  and  for  the  benefit  of  future  historians,  I  shall  give  the  fact, 
the  truth  of  which  will  bear  inquiry,  as  I  had  it  from  men  of  every 
party  and  description  in  that  city,  and  leave  the  decision  to  every  im 
partial  man.  The  quakers  in  America,  I  speak  generally,  had  long 
belied  their  principles,  and  covertly  and  openly  done  every  thing  in 
their  power  to  thwart  the  measures  adopted  by  a  vast  majority  of  their 
countrymen,  then  in  possession  of  the  government ;  their  secret  in 
trigues  and  open  defiance  were  long  overlooked  and  borne  with,  until 
danger  became  so  critical  as  to  demand  some  precautions  for  the  com 
mon  safety.  A  few  of  the  most  active  spirits  amongst  these  pacific 
and  passive  sectaries  were  arrested,  and  sent  from  the  immediate 
scene  of  action  into  Virginia,  where  they  suffered  only  a  tempo 
rary  restraint  from  mischief.  Carlisle  a 'id  Roberts,  though  well  known 
for  a  malignant  hatred  to  the  cause  of  America,  unfortunately  for 
them,  escaping  this  temporary  exile,  continued  their  clandestine  prac 
tices  until  General  Howe  got  possession  of  the  city,  when  they  no  longer 
set  any  bounds  to  their  inveteracy.  They  were  both  employed  by  the 
general,  or  his  honest  and  grateful  agent  Mr.  Galloway,  in  the  admi 
nistration  of  the  police,  or  in  other  words,  they  undertook.  Carlisle  in 


134  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

without  either  shame  or  decency.  It  is  a  received  maxim  in 
trade  to  beware  of  them,  and  this  opinion,  which  is  well  found 
ed,  will  become  still  more  necessary.  In  fact,  nothing  can  be 
worse  than  enthusiasm  in  its  downfall ;  for  what  can  be  its  sub 
stitute,  but  hypocrisy  ?  That  monster  so  well  known  in  Europe, 
finds  but  too  easy  an  access  to  all  religions ;  he  found  none, 
however,  in  a  company  of  young  ladies,  who  were  invited,  as 
well  as  myself,  to  drink  tea  with  Mrs.  Cunningham.  They 
were  well  dressed,  seemed  desirous  of  pleasing,  and  it  is  fair 
to  conclude,  that  their  private  sentiments  were  in  unison  with 
their  appearance.  The  mistress  of  the  house  is  amiable,  and 
her  conversation  graceful  and  interesting.  This  assembly  re 
called  to  my  mind  in  every  respect,  those  of  Holland,  and  Ge 
neva,  where  one  meets  with  gaiety  without  indecency,  and  the 
wish  to  please  without  coquetry. 

particular,  to  discriminate  between  the  loyalists  and  the  friends  to 
America.     Carlisle  granted  permissions  to  pass  the  lines,  watched  at 
the  gates,  to  point  out  obnoxious  persons  coming  in  from  the  country, 
who  were  frequently  committed  to  prison  on  his  bare  suggestion,  and 
exercised,  in  short,  the  office  of  sub-inquisitor  to  Mr.  Joseph  Gallo 
way.     Nor  was  this  the  only  method  by  which  they  manifested  the 
peaceable  principles  of  their  sect.     General  Howe  having  received 
information  of  a  party  of  rnilitia  lying  in  the  woods,  in  the  county  of 
Bucks,  at  sixteen  miles  distance,   under  General  Lacy,  despatched 
Lieutenant-Colonel  Abercrombie  with  a  considerable  detachment  by 
the  Frankfort  road  to  attack  them  ;  and  one  or  both  of  these  harmless 
quakers  who  would  not  bear  arms  for  the  wealth  of  Britain,  conscien 
tiously  undertook  to  conduct  this  man  of  blood  to  a  successful  sur 
prise  and  massacre  of  their  own  countrymen.     These,  and  a  variety  of 
other  facts  being  proved  against  them,  after  the  evacuation  of  the  town, 
where  they  had  the  presumption  to  remain,  and  there  being  an  evident 
necessity  for  making  an  example  of  these  most  dangerous  of  all  ene 
mies,  lenity  would   have  been  as  ill-tirned  as  unjust  to  the   suffer 
ing  citizens      Such,  I  am  sorry  to  say  it,  was  the  undoubted  conduct 
of  too  many  of  this  once  respectable  body,  during  the  war,  a  conduct, 
which  must  not  only  be  condemned  by  every  honourable  and  feeling 
mind,  but  1  may  venture  to  say,  is  wholly  repugnant  to  the  principles 
of  a  Lettsom,  a  Fothergill,  a  Barclay,  or  a  William  Penri ;  for,  it  may 
be  pronounced  with  no  intolerant  spirit,  that  in  cases  of  critical  emer 
gency,  no  society  can  endure  such  members.     In  opposition,  how 
ever,  to  newspaper  reports,  and  their  cries  of  persecution,  I  can  my 
self  bear  testimony  to  the  unpunished  license  these  quietests  gave 
their  tongues  in  the  very  seat  of  Congress,  and  in  defiance  of  the  as 
sembly  of  the  state,  and  to  their  ostentatious  display  of  the  portraits 
of  the  king  and  queen  of  England,  which,  however,  there  is  every  rea 
son  to  believe,  was  more  the  result  of  obstinacy,  and  the  spirit  of  con 
tradiction,  than  of  loyalty  or  reason,  in  this  selfish  set  of  people. — 
Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  133 

On  Sunday  the  10th  I  had  resolved  to  make  a  circuit  through 
the  churches,  and  different  places  of  worship.  Unluckily  the 
different  sects,  who  agree  in  neither  point,  take  the  same  hour 
to  assemble  the  faithful,  so  that  in  the  morning  I  was  only  able 
to  visit  the  quaker's  meeting,  and  in  the  afternoon  the  church 
of  England.  The  hall  the  quakers  meet  in  is  square ;  there 
are,  on  every  side,  and  parallel  with  the  walls,  benches  and 
desks,  by  which  means  they  are  placed  opposite  to  each  other, 
without  either  altar  or  pulpit  to  attract  the  attention.  As  soon 
as  they  are  assembled,  one  of  the  more  elderly  makes  an  ex 
tempore  prayer,  of  whatever  comes  uppermost  in  his  mind ; 
silence  is  then  observed  until  some  man  or  woman  feels  inspi 
red,  and  rises  to  speak.  Travellers  must  be  taken  at  their 
word,  however  extraordinary  their  motives.  Like  Ariosto,  I 
shall  recount  prodigies,  diro  maraviglia;  but  it  is  a  fact  that  I 
arrived  at  the  moment  a  woman  was  done  holding  forth ;  she 
was  followed  by  a  man  who  talked  a  great  deal  of  nonsense 
about  internal  grace,  the  illumination  of  the  spirit,  and  the 
other  dogmas  of  his  sect,  which  he  bandied  about,  but  took 
special  care  not  to  explain  them ;  and  at  length  finished  his 
discourse  to  the  great  content  of  the  brethren,  and  the  sister 
hood,  who  had  all  of  them  a  very  inattentive  and  listless  air. 
After  seven  or  eight  minutes  silence,  an  old  man  went  on  his 
knees,  dealt  us  out  a  very  unmeaning  prayer,  and  dismissed  the 
audience.* 

*  Mention  has  been  frequently  made  in  the  public  prints  of  the  new 
sect  of  shakers  in  Massachusetts  Bay,  who  carry  their  frantic  orgies 
to  still  more  ridiculous  and  licentious  excesses  than  the  pristine  qua 
kers,  with  George  Fox  at  their  head  ;  but  I  have  seen  no  notice  taken 
of  another,  which  sprung  up  at  Rhode-Island  about  the  year  1780. 
A  very  comely  young  woman  is,  or  pretends  to  be,  impressed  with  the 
belief  that  she  is  in  her  person  the  saviour  of  the  world  revived,  and 
travels  from  place  to  place,  attended  by  twelve  young  men,  whom  she 
calls  her  apostles ;  who,  if  the  general  assertion  be  credited,  have  lite 
rally  followed  the  precept  of  "  making  eunuchs  of  themselves  for 
Christ's  sake."  General  Gates  told  me  he  heard  her  preach  at  Rhode- 
Island,  and  I  made  an  attempt  to  hear  her  at  Philadelphia  in  October 
1782,  but  the  crowd  was  so  great,  and,  what  is  very  uncommon  in 
America,  so  turbulent,  that  it  was  impossible  to  get  near  the  place  of 
worship.  Two  of  her  apostles  came  to  the  house  I  boarded  in,  to  ob 
tain  lodgings  for  her,  and  some  of  the  brethren ;  by  which  means  I 
had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  a  specimen  of  them,  but  they  would 
enter  into  no  conversation  ;  they  were  tall,  handsome  young  men,  the 
youngest  not  above  nineteen,  with  large  round  flapped  hats,  and  long 
flowing  strait  locks,  with  a  sort  of  melancholy  wildness  in  their  coun 
tenances,  and  an  effeminate,  dejected  air,  which  seemed  to  justify  the 
truth  of  what  I  believe  literally  to  be  their  unfortunate  situation.— 
Trans. 


136  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

On  quitting  this  melancholy,  homespun  assembly,  the  service 
of  the  English  church  appeared  to  me  a  sort  of  opera,  as  well 
for  the  music  as  the  decorations  :  a  handsome  pulpit  placed 
before  a  handsome  organ  ;  a  handsome  minister  in  that  pulpit, 
reading,  speaking,  and  singing  with  a  grace  entirely  theatrical, 
a  number  of  young  women  answering  melodiously  from  the  pit 
and  boxes,  (for  the  two  side  galleries  form  a  sort  of  boxes)  a 
soft  and  agreeable  vocal  music,  with  excellent  sonatas,  played 
alternately  on  the  organ ;  all  this,  compared  to  the  quakers, 
the  anabaptists,  the  presbyterians,  &c.  appeared  to  me  rather 
like  a  little  paradise  itself,  than  as  the  road  to  it.  If  however 
we  consider  the  different  sects,  whether  rigid,  or  frivolous,  but 
all  imperious,  all  exclusive,  we  think  we  see  men  reading  in 
the  great  book  of  nature,  like  Montauciel  at  his  lesson,  when, 
instead  of  vous  etes  un  Mane  bee,  he  persists  in  repeating  trom- 
pette  blesse.  It  is  a  million  to  one  that  a  man  should  hit  upon  a 
line  of  writing  without  knowing  how  to  spell  his  letters ;  but 
should  he  come  to  ask  your  assistance,  beware  how  you  meddle 
with  him ;  it  is  better  to  leave  him  in  his  error  than  to  cut 
throats  with  him.* 

I  shall  only  mention  my  dinner  this  day  at  Mrs.  Powell's,  to 
say  that  it  was  excellent  and  agreeable  in  every  respect.  The 
conversation  carried  us  so  far  into  the  evening,  that  it  was  near 
eleven  when  I  returned  home. 


*  For  this  allusion  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  humorous  prison 
scene,  between  Montauciel  and  the  Deserter,  in  the  comic  opera  of 
that  name.  Montauciel  is  the  Skirmish  of  the  English  theatre,  in 
their  copy  from  the  French. — Trans. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


GERMANTOWN WHITE  MARSH BARREN  HILL. 

M.  DE  LA  FAYETTE  had  made  a  party  with  the  Vicomte  de 
Noailles  and  the  Comte  de  Damas,  to  go  the  next  morning, 
first  to  German  town  (which  the  two  latter  had  not  yet  seen) 
and  from  thence  to  the  old  camp  at  Whitemarsh.  Though  1 
had  already  viewed  the  former,  I  had  no  objection  to  going 
over  it  a  second  time,  besides  that  I  was  curious  to  see  the 
complete  Whitemarsh.  It  is  that  which  was  occupied  by 
General  Washington  after  the  unsuccessful  attempt  of  the  7th 
of  October.  As  this  was  a  bold  position  which  the  English 
never  dared  to  attack,  it  is  very  celebrated  in  the  American 
army,  where  they  assert  that  they  had  no  other  entrenchment 
than  two  redoubts.  The  fact  is,  that  the  position  is  excellent,, 
and  does  great  honour  to  General  Washington,  who  could 
discover  it,  as  if  by  instinct,  through  those  woods  with  which 
the  country  was  then  covered ;  but  it  is  no  less  true,  that 
General  Howe  had  every  reason  for  not  attacking  it,  and, 
among  others,  for  the  following  :  descending  from  the  heights 
of  Germantown,  there  are  very  thick  woods  ;  on  coming  out 
of  them,  to  the  west,  is  a  pretty  high  hill,  the  foot  of  which  is 
watered  by  a  rivulet,  with  steep  banks,  which  turns  towards 
the  north  and  protects  the  right  of  the  camp.  Six  pieces  of 
cannon  were  placed  on  this  eminence,  with  four  hundred  men, 
who  formed  an  advanced  pion.  It  is  called  Chestnut-Hill, 
from  a  little  church  of  that  name,  situated  on  its  summit; 
behind  this  eminence,  and  behind  the  woods  which  stretch  from 
east  to  west,  the  ground  rises  considerably,  and  forms  two 
hills  with  a  gentle  declivity,  which  commands  Chestnut  church ; 
here  the  army  was  encamped.  These  hills  are  only  separated 
by  a  small  bottom  ;  each  summit  was  fortified  with  a  redoubt, 
and  the  slope  of  it  defended  by  an  abattis.  The  hill  on  the 
left  was  still  farther  protected  by  a  rivulet,  which  might  be 
increased  at  pleasure,  as  it  ran  behind  the  camp,  and  it  was 
easy  to  make  the  dams  necessary  for  raising  the  waters.  The 
front  of  this  position,  it  is  true,  is  covered  with  wood  ;  but 
these  woods  terminate  at  three  hundred  yards  from  the  line 
formed  abreast;  an  enemy  therefore  must  have  come  out  of 
them  uncovered,  and  how  get  through  a  wood  where  there  is 
no  road,  and  which  was  filled  with  militia  and  riflemen^  I 

18 


138  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

pointed  out  the  more  minutely  all  the  advantages  of  this  posi 
tion,  that  I  might  amuse  myself  in  exaggerating  them  to  M. 
de  la  Fayette,  to  convince  him  that  he  was  a  Gascon  as  well 
as  the  rest  of  them.  He  owned  to  me  that  the  camp  was  a 
good  one,  and  that  if  the  English  had  given  them  room  for 
pleasantry,  it  was  only-  by  inserting  in  tt-eir  relations  that  the 
rebels  were  so  well  entrenched  that  it  was  impossible  to  attack 
them.  But  we  were  unanimous  in  our  conclusion,  that  the 
more  respectable  this  position  was,  the  more  honour  it  did  to 
General  Washington,  who  had  divined,  rather  than  discovered 
it.  This  was  really,  an  eagle's-eye  view,  for  it  seems  as  if  he 
must  have  hovered  above  the  trees  to  examine  the  ground  con 
cealed  by  them.* 

Having  taken  our  view,  we  returned  briskly  to  the  Chevalier 
de  la  Luzerne's,  where  dinner  came  very  apropos,  after  being 
eight 'hours  on  horseback,  and  riding  six  and  thirty  miles.  In 
the  afternoon  we  drank  tea  with  Mi*s  Shippen.  This  was  the 
first  time,  since  my  arrival  in  America,  that  I  had  seen  music 
introduced  into  society,  and  mix  with  its  amusements.  Miss 
Rutledgef  played  on  the  harpsichord,  and  played  very  well. 
Miss  Shippen  sung  with  timidity,  but  with  a  pretty  voice. 
Mr.  Ottaw,  Secretary  to  M.  de  la  Luzerne,  sent  for  his  harp,J 
he  accompanied  Miss  Shippen,  and  played  several  pieces. 
Music  naturally  leads  to  dancing  :  the  Vicomte  de  INoailles, 
took  down  a  violin,  which  was  mounted  with  harp  strings,  and 
he  made  the  young  ladies  dance,  while  their  mothers  and 
other  grave  personages  chatted  in  another  room.  When  mu 
sic,  and  the  fine  arts  come  to  prosper  at  Philadelphia ;  when 
society  once  becomes  easy  and  gay  there,  and  they  learn  to 
accept  of  pleasure  when  it  presents  itself,  without  a  formal 
invitation,  then  may  foreigners  enjoy  all  the  advantages  pecu 
liar  to  their  manners  and  government,  without  envying  any 
thing  in  Europe.^ 


*  See  General  Howe's  account  of  his  attempt  upon  this  camp. — 
Trans. 

I  Miss  Rutledge  is  since  married  to  M.  de  Marbois,  who  is  at  pre 
sent  Secretary  to  M.  de  la  Luzerne,  in  his  government  of  St.  Domin 
go. — Trans. 

|  He  is  now  Consul  General,  and  Charge  des  Affaires  at  Philadel 
phia  in  the  absence  of  the  Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne. — The  Chevalier 
does  not  return  to  America,  being  appointed  to  the  government  of  St. 
Domingo,  and  no  other  minister  is  yet  named. —  Trans. 

§  It  is  very  certain  that  any  person  educated  in  Europe,  and  accus 
tomed  to  the  luxury  of  music  and  the  fine  arts,  and  to  their  enjoyment 
in  the  two  capitals  of  France  and  England,  must  find  a  great  void  in 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  139 

The  12th,  in  the  morning,  a  new  cavalcade,  and  a  new 
reconnoitring  party.  M.  de  la  Fayette  was  to  do  the  honours 
of  this.  The  just  interest  he  inspires,  has  given  still  more 
celebrity  to  an  event,  of  itself  singular  enough.  The  alliance 
with  France  being  already  public  in  June  1778,  it  seemed  pro 
bable  that  the  English  would  not  delay  the  evacuation  of 
Philadelphia.  In  this  state  of  things,  though  it  was  General 
Washington's  business  to  risk  nothing,  it  was  important  never 
theless  to  watch  the  motions  of  the  enemy.  M.  de  la  Fayette 
received  orders  to  march  from  Valley  Forge,  with  two  thousand 
infantry,  fifty  dragoons,  and  as  many  savages,  to  pass  the 
Schuylkill,  and  take  post  on  a  height  called  Barrenhill,  about 
twelve  miles  distant  from  Philadelphia.  The  position  was 
critical,  he  might  be  attacked,  or  turned,  by  three  different 
roads;  but  M.  de  la  Fayette  guarded  the  most  direct  of  the 
three;  a  Brigadier-General  of  militia,  named  Potter,  had  orders 
to  watch  the  second,  and  patroles  kept  an  eye  upon  the  third, 
which  was  the  most  circuitous.  Though  these  precautions 
seemed  sufficient  at  first  sight,  they  must  not  have  been  deem 
ed  so  by  General  Howe  ;  for  he  thought  he  had  now  fairly 
caught  the  Marquis,  and  even  carried  his  gasconade  so  far  as 
to  invite  ladies  to  meet  him  at  supper  the  next  day,  and  while 
the  principal  part  of  the  officers  were  at  the  play,*  he  put  in 
movement  the  main  body  of  his  forces,  which  he  marched  in 
three  columns.  The  first,  commanded  by  General  Howe  in 
person,  took  the  direct  road  to  Barrenhill,  passing  by  Schuyl 
kill  Falls,  and  keeping  along. the  river;  the  second,  led  by 
General  Gray,  kept  the  high  road  of  Germantown,  and  was  to 

these  particulars  in  America.  This  the  translator  experienced  during 
his  residence  in  that  country,  and  felt  the  contrast  with  greater  force 
on  his  return  to  Europe.  After  a  long  absence,  in  which  he  heard 
scarcely  any  other  music  than  church  hymns,  the  cannon,  and  the 
drum  ;  or  viewing  any  paintings  but  the  little  sketches  of  Cimetiere, 
or  the  portraits  of  Peek,  of  Philadelphia  :  on  his  arrival  at  Bordeaux 
after  the  peace,  the  common  orchestra  at  the  theatre  afforded  him 
more  exquisite  delight  than  he  had  ever  felt  from  one  of  Hayden's 
best  symphonies  at  Bach's,  or  than  he  should  now  feel  perhaps  at  the 
Westminster  commemoration  of  Handel ;  and  the  very  moderate 
exhibition  at  the  Louvre,  was,  to  him,  a  groupe  of  Raphaels,  Titians, 
and  Vandykes. —  Trans. 

*  The  English  had  brought  with  them  from  New- York,  a  company 
of  players,  and  the  officers  themselves  frequently  performed  the  princi 
pal  characters.  [An  excellent  trait  this  for  the  future  historians  of 
the  civil  war,  as  well  as  the  meschianza,  that  illustrious  act  of  folly  and 
infatuation  ;  facts  truly  characteristic  of  the  dissipation,  and  decline  of 
a  great  people. — Trans.] 


140  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

fall  on  M.  de  la  Fayette's  left  flank  ;  the  third,  under  the  or 
ders  of  General  Grant,  made  a  long  circuit,  marching  first  by 
Frankfort,  then  turning  upon  Oxford,  to  reach  the  only  ford  by 
which  the  Americans  could  retreat. 

This  complicated  march,  was  executed  the  more  easily,  as 
the  English  had  positive  intelligence  that  the  militia  did  not 
occupy  the  post  assigned  them.  Fortunately  for  M.  de  la  Fay- 
ette,  two  officers  had  set  out  early  from  the  camp  to  go  into  the 
Jerseys,  where  they  had  business  ;  these  officers  having  suc 
cessively  fallen  in  with  two  columns  of  the  enemy,  resolved  to 
return  to  the  camp  through  the  woods,  as  iquick  as  possible. 
General  Howe's  column  was  not  long  in  reaching  the  advanced 
posts  of  M.  de  la  Fayette ;  which  gave  rise  to  a  laughable 
enough  adventure.  The  fifty  savages  he  had  with  him,  were 
placed  in  an  ambuscade,  in  the  woods,  after  their  manner,  that 
is  to  say,  lying  as  close  as  rabbits.  Fifty  English  dragoons, 
who  had  never  seen  any  Indians,  marching  at  the  head  of  the 
column,  entered  the  wood  where  they  wete  hid,  who  on  their 
part  had  never  seen  dragoons.  Up  they  start,  raising  a  horri 
ble  cry,  throw  down  their  arms,  and  escape  by  swimming  across 
the  Schuylkill.  The  dragoons,  on  the  other  hand,  as  much 
terrified  as  they  were,  turned  about  their  horses,  and  did  not 
recover  their  panic  until  they  got  back  to  Philadelphia.  M.  de 
la  Fayette,  now  finding  that  he  was  turned,  concluded  very 
justly  like  a  warrior,  that  the  column  marched  against  him 
would  not  be  the  first  to  make  the  attack,  and  that  it  would 
wait  until  the  other  was  in  readiness.  He  immediately 
changed  his  front,  therefore,  and  took  a  good  position  opposite 
the  second  column,  having  before  him  Barrenhill  church,  and 
behind  him  the  opening  which  served  as  a  retreat.  But  he 
had  scarcely  occupied  this  position,  before  he  learnt  that  Gen 
eral  Grant  was  on  his  march  to  the  Schuylkill  Ford,  and  was 
already  nearer  to  it  than  himself.  Nothing  remained  but  to 
retreat :  but  the  only  road  he  had,  made  him  approach  the  col 
umn  of  General  Grant,  and  exposed  him  to  be  attacked  by  it 
in  front,  whilst  Grey  and  Howe  fell  upon  his  rear.  The  road, 
it  is  true,  soon  turning  to  the  left,  became  separated  by  a  small 
valley  from  that  General  Grant  was  on,  but  this  valley  itself  was 
crossed  by  several  roads,  and  it  must,  in  short,  be  traversed  to 
reach  the  Ford.  In  this  situation,  his  own  greatness  of  mind 
alone  suggested  to  the  young  soldier  the  proper  conduct,  as 
well  as  consummate  experience  could  possibly  have  done.  He 
knew  that  more  honour  is  lost,  than  time  gained,  in  converting 
a  retreat  into  a  flight.  He  continued  his  march,  therefore,  in 
so  tranquil  and  regular  an  order,  that  he  imposed  on  General 
Grant,  and  made  him  believe,  that  he  was  sustained  by  Wash 
ington's  whole  army,  which  was  waiting  for  him  at  the  end  of 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  141 

the  defile.  On  the  other  hand,  Howe  himself,  on  arriving  on 
the  heights  of  Barrenhill,  was  deceived  by  the  first  manoeuvre 
of  M.  de  la  Fayette  ;  for  seeing  the  Americans  in  line  of  battle, 
on  the  very  spot  where  the  second  column  was  to  appear,  he 
imagined  it  was  General  Grey  who  had  got  possession  of  this 
position,  and  thus  lost  some  minutes  in  looking  through  his 
glass,  and  in  sending  to  reconnoitre.  General  Grey  also  lost 
time  in  waiting  for  the  right  and  left  columns.  From  all  these 
mistakes  it  followed,  that  M.  de  la  Fayette  had  the  opportuni 
ty  of  effecting  his  retreat,  as  if  by  enchantment,  and  he  passed 
the  river  with  all  his  artillery  without  losing  a  man.  Six  alarm 
guns,  which  were  fired  at  the  army,  on  the  first  news  of  this  at 
tack,  served,  I  believe,  to  keep  the  enemy  in  awe,  who  imagi 
ned  the  whole  American  army  were  in  march.  The  English, 
after  finding  the  bird  flown,  returned  to  Philadelphia,  spent 
with  fatigue,  and  ashamed  of  having  done  nothing.  The  ladies 
did  not  see  M.  de  la  Fayette,  and  General  Howe  himself  ar 
rived  too  late  for  supper. 

In  reciting  this  affair,  I  give  at  the  same  time  an  account 
of  my  ride,  for  I  followed  the  exact  road  of  the  left  column, 
which  leads  to  Schuylkill  Falls,  where  there  is  a  sort  of  scatter 
ed  village,  composed  of  several  beautiful  country  houses ; 
among  others,  that  of  the  Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne.*  A  small 
creek  which  falls  into  the  Schuylkill,  the  height  of  ten  or 
twelve  feet,  the  mills  turned  by  this  creek,  the  trees  which 
cover  its  banks,  and  those  of  the  Schuylkill,  form  a  most  plea 
sing  landscape,  which  would  not  escape  the  pencil  of  Robert 
•and  Le  Prince. 


*  The  beautiful  banks  of  the  Schuylkill  are  every  where  covered 
with  elegant  country  houses  ;  among  others,  those  of  Mr.  Penn,  the 
late  proprietor,  Mr.  Hamilton,  and  Mr.  Peters,  late  Secretary  to  the 
Board  of  War,  are  on  the  most  delightful  situations.  The  tasty  little 
box  of  the  last  gentleman  is  on  the  most  enchanting  spot  that  nature 
can  embellish,  and  besides  the  variegated  beauties  of  the  rural  banks 
of  the  Schuylkill,  commands  the  Delaware,  and  the  shipping  mount 
ing  and  descending  it,  where  it  is  joined  at  right  angles  by  the  former. 
From  hence  is  the  most  romantic  ride  up  the  river  to  the  Falls,  in 
which  the  opposite  bank  is  likewise  seen  beautifully  interspersed  with 
the  country  houses  of  the  opulent  citizens  of  the  capital.  On  your  ar 
rival  at  the  Falls,  every  little  know!  or  eminence  is  occupied  by  one  of 
these  charming  retreats  ;  among  which  General  Mifflin's  stands  con 
spicuous,  nor  is  the  exterior  belied  by  the  neatness,  the  abundance, 
and  hospitality  which  reign  within  ;  the  easy  politeness,  the  attention, 
good  sense,  gaiety,  and  information  of  the  owner  ;  the  order,  arrange 
ment,  and  elegance  of  Mrs.  Mifflin,  who  still  adhering  to  her  sect, 
which  her  husband  renounced  for  "  the  ear-piercing  fife  and  spirit- 


142  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

This  expedition  not  being  so  long  as  that  of  the  other  day. 
left  me  two  hours  at  my  disposal ;  and  I  employed  them  in  visit 
ing  the  left  of  the  English  lines,  which  I  had  not  yet  seen.  M. 
de  Gimat  was  so  good  as  to  separate  from  the  rest  of  the  com 
pany,  and  instead  of  returning  to  Philadelphia,  we  kept  to  the 
right,  to  follow  the  lines,  as  far  as  the  Sehuylkill.  I  found  that 
from  the  centre,  to  the  left,  their  position  was  nothing  less  than 
advantageous,  particularly  near  a  burnt  house,  towards  which 
I  should  have  directed  my  attack  had  I  been  in  the  way  of 
making  one.  From  a  ridge  of  ground,  where  indeed  the  Eng 
lish  had  formed  a  semicircular  battery  towards  the  Schuylkill, 
the  glacis  is  against  the  lines  ;  so  that  the  assailant  might  first 
march  under  cover,  and  then  command  the  batteries  which  de 
fend  them.  To  the  left,  and  close  to  the  Schuylkill,  the  ground 
has  suddenly  a  very  considerable  rise,  of  which  the  English 
did  not  fail  to  avail  themselves,  by  constructing  a  large  redoubt, 
and  a  battery  ;  but  this  summit  itself  is  commanded,  and  taken 
in  reverse  by  the  heights  on  the  other  side  of  the  river.  Be 
this  as  it  may,  these  works  were  sufficient  to  secure  an  army 
of  fifteen  thousand  men,  against  one  of  seven  or  at  most  eight 
thousand.  At  every  step  one  takes  in  America,  one  is  astonish 
ed  at  the  striking  contrast  between  the  contempt  in  which  the 
English  affected  to  hold  their  enemies,  and  the  extreme  pre 
cautions  they  took  on  every  occasion. 

Nothing  can  equal  the  beauties  of  the  coup  d'ceil  which  the 
banks  of  the  Schuylkill  present,  in  descending  towards  the 
south  to  return  to  Philadelphia. 

I  found  a  pretty  numerous  company  assembled  at  dinner  at 
the  Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne's,  which  was  augmented  by  the 
arrival  of  the  Comte  de  Custine  and  the  M.  de  Laval.  In  the 
evening  we  took  them  to  see  the  President  of  the  Congress, 
who  was  not  at  home,  and  then  to  Mr.  Peters,  the  Secretary 
to  the  Board  of  War,  to  whom  it  was  my  first  visit.  His  house 
is  not  large,  nor  his  office  of  great  importance ;  for  every  thing 


stirring  drum,"  possesses  all  its  excellencies,  and  is  what  a  most 
amiable  female  Quaker  ought  to  be,  render  this  (and  I  speak  from 
knowledge  and  gratitude)  a  most  delicious  abode.  'Below  this  house, 
and  close  to  the  Falls,  is  a  building  erected  by  Mr.  John  Dickinson, 
the  celebrated  author  of  the  Farmer's  Letters,  for  a  select  society  of 
friends,  who  held  a  weekly  meeting  there,  before  the  war,  during  the 
season  for  eating  shad.  Good  humour,  harmony,  and  good  sense,  are 
said  to  have  characterised  these  meetings,  presided  by  this  eminent 
and  amiable  man,  whose  figure,  countenance,  and  manners  always  re 
minded  me  of  the  urbanity  and  virtues  so  characteristically  portrayed 
in  the  person  of  the  lamented,  great,  good  man,  Lord  Rockinpham.— 
Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  143 

which  is  not  in  the  power  of  the  General  of  the  army,  depends 
on  each  particular  state,  much  more  than  on  Congress ;  but 
he  possesses  what  is  preferable  to  all  the  departments  in  the 
world,  an  amiable  wife,  [the  Marquis  might  have  added,  very 
beautiful]  excellent  health,  a  good  voice,  and  great  gaiety  and 
humour.  We  conversed  some  time  together,  and  he  spoke  of 
the  American  army  with  as  much  freedom  as  good  sense.  He 
confessed  that  formerly  their  army  knew  no  discipline,  and  he 
insisted  strongly 'on  the  obligations  they  owed  to  the  Baron.de 
Steuben,  who  performed  the  duties  of  Inspector -General. 
Passing  then  to  the  eulogium  of  Messieurs  de  Fleury,  du  Por 
tal,  and  all  the  French  officers  who  had  served  in  the  late 
campaigns,  he  observed,  that  those  who  offered  their  service 
in  the  beginning,  had  not  given  a  very  advantageous  idea  of 
their  country.  They  were  almost  all  furnished,  however,  with 
letters  of  recommendation  from  the  Governors  or  Command 
ants  of  our  colonies;  in  which  they  seem  to  me  very  repre 
hensible.  The  weakness  which  prevents  men  from  refusing  a 
letter  of  recommendation,  or  the  desire  of  getting  rid  of  a  good 
for  nothing  fellow,  continually  gets  the  better  of  justice  and 
good  faith  ;  we  deceive,  we  expose  the  reputation  of  our  allies, 
but  we  still  more  essentially,  betray  the  interests  of  our  coun 
try,  whose  honour  and  character  are  thus  shamefully  prostituted. 

I  shall  only  speak  of  Mr.  Price,  with  whom  we  drank  tea 
and  spent  the  evening,  to  bear  witness  to  the  generosity  of 
this  gallant  man,  who,  born  in  Canada  and  always  attached  to 
the  French,  lent  two  hundred  thousand  livres,  hard  money,  to 
M.  de  Corny,  whom  the  court  had  sent  with  fifty  thousand 
livres  only,  to  make  provision  for  our  army. 

The  13th.  I  went  with  the  Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne,  and  the 
French  travellers,  to  dine  with  the  Southern  Delegates.* 


*  The  Marquis  de  Chastellux  seems  unfortunately  to  have  known 
but  little  of  the  Southern  Delegates,  particularly  those  of  South  Caro 
lina,  whom,  without  any  invidious  comparison,  he  would  have  found 
men  of  the  greatest  liberality  and  understanding:  as  firm  in  their 
principles,,  and  as  ready  to  hazard  their  lives  in  the  defence  of  their 
liberty,  as  the  most  zealous  inhabitant  of  New-England  ;  they  pos 
sessed,  in  general,  all  the  taste,  urbanity,  and  enlightened  knowledge 
of  polished  Europe.  In  Mr.  Ramsey,  he  would  have  found  a  cultivated 
understanding,  a  persevering  mind,  and  an  active  enthusiasm,  founded 
on  a  thorough  knowledge  of  the  cause  he  was  engaged  in,  and  the 
most  perfect  conviction  of  its  rectitude.  In  Mr.  Izard,  the  fire  and 
zeal  of  a  gentleman  republican,  filled  with  indignation  at  the  violence 
and  excesses  he  had  witnessed  in  the  English  government.  In  Mr. 
Rutledge,  a  manly,  principled  determination  to  risk  and  suffer  every 
thing,  rather  than  again  submit  to  the  yoke  of  Britain,  with  elegant 


144  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.     , 

Messieurs  Sharp,  Flowy,f  and  Maddison,  were  the  nearest 
to  me ;  I  conversed  a  great  deal  with  them,  and  was  much 
satisfied  with  their  conversation.  But  I  was  still  more  so  with 
that  I  had  in  the  afternoon  at  Mrs.  Meredith's,  General  Cad- 
wallader's  daughter:  this  was  the  first  time  I  had  seen  this 
amiable  family,  although  the  Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne  was  very 
intimate  with  them;  but  they  had  only  just  arrived  from  the 
country,  where  General  Cadwallader  was  still  detained  by 
business.  It  is  this  gentleman  who  had  a  duel  with  Mr.  Chace, 
formerly  a  Delegate  for  Maryland,  and  severely  wounded  him 
in.  the  jaw  with  a  pistol  shot.  Mrs.  Meredith  has  three  or  four 
sisters,  or  sisters-in-law.  I  was  astonished  at  the  freedom  and 
gaiety  which  reigned  in  this  family,  and  regretted  not  having 
known  them  sooner.  I  chattered  more,  particularly  with  Mrs. 
Meredith,  who  appeared  to  me  very  amiable  and  well  inform 
ed.  In  the  course  of  an  hour  we  talked  of  literature,  poetry, 
romances,  and  above  all,  history;  I  found  she  knew  that  of 
France  very  well  ;  the  comparison  between  Francis  I.  and 
Henry  IV.  between  Turenne  and  Cond-:,  Richelieu  and  Maza 
rine,  seemed  familiar  to  her,  and  she  made  them  with  much 
grace,  wit  and  understanding.  While  I  was  talking  with 
Mrs.  Meredith,  Mr.  Lynch  had  got  possession  of  Miss  Polly 
Cadwallader,  who  had  likewise  made  a  conquest  of  him,  inso 
much  that  the  Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne  was  much  entertained 
at  the  enthusiasm  with  which  this  company  had  inspired  us, 
and  the  regret  we  expressed  at  not  having  become  sooner  ac- 


ideas  of  the  enjoyments  of  life,  and  all  the  domestic  virtues.  In  Mr. 
Arthur  Middleton,  the  plainest  manners,  with  the  most  refined  taste  ; 
great  reading,  and  knowledge  of  the  world,  concealed  under  the  re 
serve  of  the  mildest,  and  most  modest  nature  ;  a  complete  philanthro 
pist,  but  the  firmest  patriot ;  cool,  steady,  and  unmoved  at  the  general 
wreck  of  property  and  fortune,  as  far  as  he  was  personally  concerned, 
but  with  a  heart  melting  for  the  suffering  and  woes  of  others.  He 
would  have  found  him,  in  short,  a  model  of  private  worth,  and  public 
virtue,  a  good  citizen,  a  good  father,  and  an  exemplary  husband, 
accomplished  in  the  letters,  in  the  sciences,  and  fine  .arts,  well 
acquainted  with  the  manners  and  the  courts  of  Europe,  from  whence 
he  has  transplanted  to  his  country  nothing  but  their  embellishments 
and  virtues.  I  speak  of  him  with  enthusiasm,  for  he  really  excited  rny 
admiration.  He  had  made  a  handsome  collection  of  paintings  when  in 
Italy,  and  on  his  travels,  which  were  mutilated  and  destroyed  by  the 
ruffian  hands  of  the  European  savages,  who  took  possession  of  his 
house  in  Carolina. —  Trans. 

t  There  must  be  an  error  in  this  name,  but  as  the  translator  can 
find  no  similitude  between  it  and  that  of  any  of  the  Southern  Dele 
gates,  he  has  inserted  it  literally. —  Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  145 

quainted  with  them.  It  must  be  acknowledged,  with  regard 
to  the  ladies  who  compose  it,  that  none  of  them  are  what  may 
be  called  handsome  ;  this  mode  of  expression  is,  perhaps,  a 
little  too  circuitous  for  the  American  women,  but  if  they  have 
wit  enough  to  comprehend,  and  good  sense  enough  to  be  flat 
tered  with  it,  their  eulogium  will  be  complete. 

I  know  not  how  it  happened,  that  since  my  arrival  in  Phila 
delphia,  I  had  not  yet  seen  Mr.  Payne,  that  author  so  celebra 
ted  in  America,  and  throughout  Europe,  by  his  excellent  work, 
entitled  Common  Sense,  and  several  other  political  pamphlets. 
M.  de  la  Fayette  and  I  asked  the  permission  of  an  interview 
for  the  14th  in  the  morning,  and  we  waited  on  him  according 
ly  with  Colonel  Laurens.  I  discovered,  at  his  apartments,  all 
the  attributes  of  a  man  of  letters ;  a  room  pretty  much  in  dis 
order,  dusty  furniture,  and  a  large  table  covered  with  books 
lying  open,  and  manuscripts  begun.  His  person  was  in  a  cor 
respondent  dress,  nor  did  his  physiognomy  belie  the  spirit  that 
reigns  throughout  his  works.  Our  conversation  was  agreea 
ble  and  animated,  and  such  as  to  form  a  connexion  between 
us,  for  he  has  written  to  me  since  my  departure,  and  seems  de 
sirous  of  maintaining  a  constant  correspondence.  His  exist 
ence  at  Philadelphia  is  similar  to  that  of  those  political  writers 
in  England,  who  have  obtained  nothing,  and.  have  neither 
credit  enough  in  the  state,  nor  sufficient  political  weight  to 
obtain  a  part  in  the  affairs  of  government.  Their  works  are 
read  with  more  curiosity  than  confidence,  their  projects  being 
regarded  rather  as  the  play  of  imagination,  than  as  well  con 
certed  plans,  and  sufficient  in  credit  ever  to  produce  any  real 
effect :  theirs  is  always  considered  as  the  work  of  an  individual, 
and  not  that  of  a  party ;  information  may  be  drawn  from  them, 
but  riot  consequences ;  accordingly  we  observe,  that  the  influ 
ence  of  these  authors  is  more  felt  in  the  satirical,  than  in  the 
dogmatical  style,  as  it  is  easier  for  them  to  decry  other  men's 
opinions  than  to  establish  their  own.  This  is  more  the  case 
with  Mr.  Payne  than  any  body ;  for  having  formerly  held  a 
post  in  government,  he  has  now  no  connexion  with  it ;  and  as 
his  patriotism  and  his  talents  are  unquestionable,  it  is  natural 
to  conclude  that  the  vivacity  of  his  imagination,  and  the  inde 
pendence  of  his  character,  render  him  more  calculated  for 
reasoning  on  affairs,  than  for  conducting  them.*  Another 


*  Mr.  Payne  has  since  written  a  very  interesting  pamphlet  on  the 
finances  of  America,  entitled  the  Crisis ;  an  answer  to  the  history  of 
the  American  Revolution  by  the  Abbe  Raynal;  and  several  other 
works,  which  confirm  the  reputation  he  so  justly  acquired  by  his  first 
production.  [The  author  is  inaccurate  in  this  particular,  the  ( r?V.v 

10 


140  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

literary  man,  as  much  respected,  though  less  celebrated,  ex 
pected  us  at  dinner  ;  this  was  Mr.  Wilson,  whom  I  have  already 
mentioned :   his  house  and  library  are  in  the  best  order ;  he 
gave  us  an  excellent  dinner,  and  received  us  with  a  plain  and 
easy  politeness.     Mrs.  Wilson  did  the  honours  of  the  table 
with  all  possible  attention ;  but  we  were  particularly  sensible 
to  the  mark  of  it  she  gave  us,  by  retiring  after  the  desert,  for 
then  the  dinner  assumed  an  air  of  gaiety.     Mr.  Peters,  the 
minister  at  war,  gave  the  signal  of  joy  and  liberty  by  favour 
ing  us  with  a  song  of  his  composition,  so  jolly,  and  so  free,  that 
I  shall  dispense  with  giving  either  a  translation,  or  an  extract. 
This  was  really  a  very  excellent  song.     He  then  sung  another 
more  chaste,  and  more  musical ;  a  very  fine  Italian  contabile.* 
Mr.  Peters  is,  unquestionably,  the  minister  of  the  two  worlds, 
who  has  the  best  voice,  and  who  sings  the  best,  the  pathetic 
and  the  bouffon.     I  was  told  that  the  preceding  year  there  were 
some  private  concerts  at  Philadelphia,  where  he  sung  among 
other  pieces  of  comic  operas,  a  burlesque  part  in  a  very  pleasant 


was  a  sort  of  periodical  publication,  many  numbers  of  which  had  ap 
peared  previous  even  to  the  arrival  of  the  French  army  in  America, 
and  was  adapted  by  Mr.  Payne  to  every  great  house,  or  crisis  of  the 
government,  whether  favourable,  or  unfavourable  ;  either  to  urge  to 
energy,  and  as  a  spur  against  supineness,  or  to  give  a  countenance  to 
misfortune,  and  stimulate  to  fresh  exertions ;  the  subject  of  finance 
was  only  the  occasional  topic  of  one  number  of  the  Crisis,  and  so  great 
was  the  weight  of  this  writer,  whose  situation  was  very  different  indeed 
from  that  of  an  English  pamphleteer,  however  ingenious  the  compari 
son,  that  on  great  emergencies,  where  almost  despondency  might  be 
looked  for,  the  whole  continent  waited  with  suspense  for  consolation 
and  council  from  Common  Sense,  his  general  appellation.  His  pro 
ductions  were  instantly  published  in  every  town,  of  every  state,  (for 
every  town  has  a  newspaper,)  on  grey,  brown,  yellow,  and  black,  but 
seldom  on  white  paper,  a  very  rare  commodity  ;  the  people  took  fresh 
courage,  and,  "  have  you  read  the  Crisis,"  was  the  specific  against 
every  political  apprehension.  In  short,  never  was  a  writer  better  cal 
culated  for  the  meridian  under  which  he  wrote,  or  who  knew  how  to 
adapt  himself  more  happily  to  every  circumstance.  Considering  the 
wonderful  effect  of  his  pamphlet  of  Common  Sense,  known  to  every 
man  in  America,  and  the  universal  ascendency  he  had  justly  acquired 
over  the  minds  of  the  people,  it  is  impossible,  in  a  general  distribution 
of  cases,  to  appreciate  the  share  Mr.  Payne  had  in  producing  this  mo 
mentous  revolution.  It  were  the  height  of  injustice,  and  ingratitude, 
to  rob  him  of  that  share  of  glory,  which  if  not  his  only,  is  at  least  his 
noblest  recompense. — Trans. 

*  So  varied  and  universal  are  the  talents  of  Mr.  Peters,  and  he  is 
so  excellent  a  companion,  that  it  is  not  saying  too  much,  to  add,  that 
he  would  form  the  delight  of  any  society  in  Europe. — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  147 

trio,  by  himself,  which  he  seasoned  with  all  the  humourous  strokes 
usual  on  such  occasions,  and  afforded  the  highest  amusement 
to  the  company,  so  that  this  was  not  the  time  for  saying,  one 
cannot  lose  a  kingdom  more  gaily,  but,  it  is  impossible  to  be  mo?v 
gay  informing  a  republic.  After  this,  conclude  from  particulars 
to  generals,  judge  of  whole  nations  by  one  specimen,  and 
establish  principles  without  exceptions  ! 

The  assembly,  or  subscription  ball,  of  which  I  must  give  an 
account,  may  here  be  properly  introduced.  At  Philadelphia, 
as  at  London,  Bath,  Spa,  &c.  there  are  places  appropriated 
for  the  young  people  to  dance  in,  and  where  those  whom  that 
amusement  does  not  suit,  play  at  different  games  of  cards; 
but  at  Philadelphia,  games  of  commerce  are  alone  allowed. 
A  manager,  or  master  of  ceremonies  presides  at  these  metho 
dical  amusements :  he  presents  to  the  gentlemen  and  ladies, 
dancers,  billets  folded  up  containing  each  a  number  ;  thus  fate 
decides  the  male  or  female  partner  for  the  whole  evening.  All 
the  dances  are  previously  arranged,  and  the  dancers  are  called 
in  their  turns.  These  dances,  like  the  toasts  we  drink  at  table, 
have  some  relation  to  politics  :  one  is  called  the  success  of  the 
campaign,  another,  the  defeat  of  Burgoyne,  and  a  third,  Clinton^- 
retreat.  The  managers  are  generally  chosen  from  among  the 
most  distinguished  officers  of  the  army  ;  this  important  place 
is  at  present  held  by  Colonel  Wilkinson,  who  is  also  clothier 
general  of  the  army.  Colonel  Mitchell,  a  little  fat,  squat  man, 
fifty  years  old,  a  great  judge  of  horses,  and  who  was  lately 
contractor  for  carriages,  both  for  the  American  and  French 
armies,  was  formerly  the  manager ;  but  when  I  saw  him,  he  had 
descended  from  the  magistracy,  and  danced  like  a  private  citi 
zen.  He  is  said  to  have  exercised  his  office  with  great  seve 
rity,  and  it  is  told  of  him,  that  a  young  lady  who  was  figuring 
in  a  country  dance,  having  forgot  her  turn  by  conversing  with 
a  friend,  he  came  up  to  her,  and  called  out  aloud,  "'give  over, 
Miss,  take  care  what  you  are  about ;  do  you  think  you  come 
here  for  your  pleasure  .?" 

The  assembly  I  went  to  on  leaving  Mr.  Wilson,  was  the  se 
cond  of  the  winter.  I  was  apprised  that  it  would  be  neither 
numerous  nor  brilliant,  for  a.t  Philadelphia,  as  at  Paris,  the  best 
company  seldom  go  to  the  balls  before  Christmas.  On  enter 
ing  the  room,  however,  I  found  twenty  or  five  and  twenty  ladies 
ready  for  dancing.  It  was  whispered  me,  that  having  heard  a 
great  deal  of  the  Vicomte  de  Noailles,  and  the  Comte  de  Da- 
mas,  they  were  come  with  the  hopes  of  having  them  for  part 
ners  ;  but  they  were  completely  disappointed,  those  gentlemen 
having  set  out  that  very  morning.  I  should  have  been  disap 
pointed  also,  had  I  expected  to  see  pretty  women.  There 
were  only  two  passable,  one  of  whom,  called  Miss  Footman, 


148  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

was  rather  contraband,  that  is  to  say,  suspected  of  not  being 
a  very  good  whig,  for  the  tory  ladies  are  publicly  excluded 
from  this  assembly.  I  was  here  presented  to  a  ridiculous 
enough  personage,  but  who  plays  her  part  in  the  town;  a  Miss 
Viny,  celebrated  for  her  coquetry,  her  wit,  and  her' sarcastic 
disposition  :  she  is  thirty,  and  does  not  seem  on  the  point  of 
marriage.  In  the  mean  time  she  applies  red,  wh^te,  blue,  and 
all  possible  colours,  affects  an  extraordinary  mode  of  dressing 
her  hair  and  person,  and  a  staunch  whig  in  every  point,  she 
sets  no  bounds  to  her  liberty. 

I  intended  leaving  Philadelphia  the  15th,  but  the  President, 
of  the  State,  who  is  also  President  of  the  Academy,  was  so 
good  as  to  invite  me  to  a  meeting  of  that  body  to  be  held  that 
day.  It  was  the  more  difficult  for  me  to  refuse  his  invitation, 
as  it  was  proposed  to  elect  me  a  foreign  member.  The  meet 
ings  are  held  only  once  a  fortnight,  and  the  elections  take  place 
but  once  a  year  :  every  candidate  must  be  presented  and  re 
commended  by  a  member  of  the  academy :  after  which  recom 
mendation  his  name  is  placed  up  during  three  succeeding  sit 
tings,  in  the  hall  of  the  academy,  arid  the  election  is  at  length 
proceeded  to  by  ballot.  I  had  only  heard  of  mine  three  days 
before.  It  was  unanimous,  which  very  rarely  happens, 
M.  de  la  Fayette  himself,  who  was  elected  at  the  same 
time,  had  one  black  ball  against  him,  but  it  was  thought 
to  have  been  an  accident.  Out  of  one  and  twenty  candidates, 
only  seven  were  chosen,  although  the  others  had  been  strongly 
recommended,  and  there  were  several  vacancies. 

As  the  sittings  of  the  academy  did  not  begin  till  seven  in  the 
evening,  I  employed  my  morning  in  paying  visits,  after  which 
I  dined  at  Mr.  Holker's,*  with  the  Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne, 


*  Mr.  ILolker,  the  son  of  the  Chevalter  Holker,  died  a  few  months 
ago  at  Rouen,  who  being  condemned  to  die  for  acting  as  an  officer  in 
the  Manchester  regiment,  in  the  rebellion  of  1745,  made  his  escape 
from  prison,  and  fled  to  France,  where  he  was  tempted  by  the  govern 
ment  to  establish  the  Manchester  manufactory  ;  this  he  repeatedly  re 
fused,  until,  from  the  wretched  policy  of  Mr.  Pelham  and  other  Min 
isters  to  whom  he  represented  the  offers  held  out  to  him,  with  a  re 
quest  of  his  pardon,  he  was  driven  to  accept  of  the  proposals  of  the 
French  court.  England  knows  too  well,  at  this  hour,  the  success 
with  which  his  endeavours  have  been  crowned.  On  the  arrival  of  the 
American  commissioners  in  France,  Mr.  Holker  was  among  the  first, 
and  most  zealous  in  his  offers  of  every  assistance  in  his  power,  and  en 
tered  into  the  most  intimate  connexion  with  them.  In  1777  his  son 
was  sent  to  Paris  to  be  near  Dr.  Franklin,  and  had  many  opportuni 
ties  of  rendering  essential- services.  In  1778  he  went  out  to  America 
with  Monsieur  Gerard,  the  first  French  Ambassador,  in  D'Estaign's 
squadron,  as  Consul  General  of  France.  He  had  not  been  long  in  the 


TKAVELS  IN  NORTH- AM  ERIC  A.  149 

M.  de  la  Fayette,  and  all  the  French  officers  :  from  thence  I 
went  to  the  academy  accompanied  by  M.  Marbois,  a  member 
of  that  body,  as  well  as  M.  de  la  Luzerne,  who  having  other 
business,  excused  himself  from  attending  me,  but  left  me  in 
very  good  hands.  Mr.  Marbois,  unites  to  all  political  and 
social  qualities,  a  great  deal  of  literature,  and  a  perfect  know 
ledge  of  the  English  language.  The  assembly  consisted  of 
only  fourteen  or  fifteen  persons ;  the  President  of  the  college 
performed  the  office  of  Secretary.  A  memoir  was  read  on  a 
singular  plant,  a  native  of  the  country ;  the  Secretary  then 
gave  an  account  of  correspondence  and  read  a  letter,  the  ob 
ject  of  which  was,  for  the  academy  of  Philadelphia  to  associate 
with,  or  rather  adopt  several  learned  societies  which  are  form 
ing  in  each  State.  This  project  tended  to  make  of  this  academy 


country  before  he  entered  into  very  advantageous  commercial  specula 
tions,  jointly  with  his  father's  countryman,  Mr.  Robert  Morris,  and 
by  means  of  his  situation  as  Consul,  had  many  opportunities  of  ship 
ping  flour,  &c.  under  permissions  for  the  French  fleet,  in  the  time  of  a 
general  and  strict  embargo  ;  he  speculated  largely  too  in  paper  money, 
with  which  he  purchased,  for  almost  nothing,  a  very  handsome  house 
at  Philadelphia,  and  an  elegant  country  house,  and  estate  a  few  miles 
from  that  city.  Mr.  Holker  displayed,  during  the  whole  war,  a  taste 
and  luxury  hitherto  strangers  in  America  ;  his  house  was  the  resort  of 
all  the  first  people  on  the  Continent,  and  after  the  arrival  of  the  French 
army,  of  all  their  officers  of  distinction.  The  French  court,  however, 
on  some  representations  of  the  Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne,  thought  fit  to 
prohibit  their  Consuls  from  all  private  commerce,  a  wise  regulation 
universally  established  by  them  ;  and  Mr.  Holker  preferring  the  advan 
tages  of  trade,  to  those  of  his  office,  resigned  the  latter,  about  the  be 
ginning  of  1781,  which  for  some  time  occasioned  a  coolness  between 
the  Minister  and  him  ;  he  had  likewise  a  difference  with  Mr.  Morris 
on  settling  their  accounts  to  a  very  large  amount,  which  has  detained 
him  in  America,  since  the  peace  ;  but,  if  I  am  rightly  informed,  it  is 
at  length  terminated.  In  1777, 1  supped  with  Mr.  Deane,  then  a  strenu 
ous  friend  to  his  country,  on  his  return  from  Havre  de  Grace  ;  where 
he  told  me,  that  on  giving  the  usual  toasts  of  "  the  Congress,"  &c. 
after  dinner,  the  old  gentleman  could  not  forbear  reflecting  on  the 
mutability  of  human  affairs,  and  that  he  who  was  an  exile,  and  had 
nearly  suffered  death  for  his  zealous  attachment  to  the  cause  of  arbi 
trary  monarchy,  should  now  be  as  ardent  in  Jii^^is^^l&r^the  success 
of  the  most  pure  democracy  that  had  ev^ylJ6^^rb^ojSfe(j/t^  human 
understanding.  And  in  fact  this  is  morj^fitriking,  as  the  hi^^trenu- 
ous  supporters  of  the  American  war  w£re«  found  in  Scotland'^nd  his 
native  town  of  Manchester  ;  in  the  veryj  seat,  affa  sj$jrpests>f  rebellion 
against  liberty  ;  in  the  persons  of  the\ye/.y  actors,  in  the  attempt  to 
overthrow  the  English  constitution,  and  c^ifhrdne  the  Brunswic 


150  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA 

a  sort  of  literary  congress,  with  which  the  particular  legisla 
tures  should  keep  a  correspondence,  but  it  was  not  thought 
proper  to  adopt  this  idea  ;  the  members  seeming  to  be  afraid 
of  the  trouble  inseparable  from  all  these  adoptions,  and  the 
academy  not  wishing  to  make  the  following  lines  of  Racine's 
Mtalie  applicable  to  them  : 

D'Ou  lui  viennent  de  tous  cotes 

Ces  enfans  qu'  en  son  seiu  elle  n'  a  pas  portes  ! 

I  returned  as  soon  as  possible  to  the  Chevalier  de  la  Lu- 
zerne's,  to  have  a  still  farther  enjoyment  of  that  society  which 
had  constituted  my  happiness  for  the  last  fortnight :  for  it  is 
unquestionably  a  very  great  one,  to  live  with  a  man  whose 
amiable  and  mild  character  never  varies  on  any  occasion ; 
whose  conversation  is  agreeable  and  instructive,  and  whose 
easy  and  unaffected  politeness  is  the  genuine  expression  of  the 
best  disposition.  But  however  allowable  it  may  be  to  declare 
one's  own  sentiments,  when  dictated  by  justice  and  gratitude, 
there  is  always  a  sort  of  personality  in  regarding  public  men 
only  as  they  respect  their  connexions  with  ourselves  :  it  is  to 
the  King's  Minister,  in  America  ;  it  is  to  a  man  who  most  ably 
fills  a  most  important  post,  that  I  owe  my  testimony  and  my 
praises.  I  shall  say,  without  fear  of  contradiction,  that  the 
Chevalier  de  la  Luzerne  is  so  formed  for  the  station  he  occu 
pies,  that  one  would  be  led  to  imagine  no  other  could  fill  it 
but  himself;  noble  in  his  expenses,  like  the  minister  of  a  great 
monarchy,  but  as  plain  in  his  manners  as  a  republican,  he  is 
equally  proper  to  represent  the  King  with  Congress,  or  the 
Congress  with  the  King.  He  loves  the  Americans,  and  his 
own  inclination  attaches  him  to  the  duties  of  his  administra 
tion  ;  he  has  accordingly  obtained  their  confidence,  both  as  a 
private  and  a  public  man ;  but  in  both  these  respects  he  is 
equally  inaccessible  to  the  spirit  of  party,  which  reigns  but 
too  much  around  him :  whence  it  results,  that  he  is  anxiously 
courted  by  all  parties,  and  that,  by  espousing  none,  he  manages 
them  all. 

It  was  the  16th  of  December  that  I  quitted  the  excellent 
winter  quarters  I  had  with  him,  and  turned  my  face  towards 
the  north,  to  seek  after  the  traces  of  General  Gates  and  Gene 
ral  Burgoyne,  amidst  heaps  of  snow.  I  had  sent  forward  my 
horses  to  Bristol,  where  I  was  conveyed  in  a  carriage  which 
the  Chevalier  de  k  Luzerne  was  so  kind  as  to  lend  me.  By 
this  means  I  arrived  there  time  enough  to  reach  Princeton 
that  night,  but  not  before  it  was  dark,  leaving  behind  me  some 
of  mv  servants  and  horses. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

PHILADELPHIA-PRINCETON-BASKENRIDGE-POMPTGN-NEW  WIND 
SOR—  POUGHKEEPSIE— RHINEBECK— CLAVERACK-KINDERHOOK, 

THE  detail  of  my  daily  occupations  having  prevented  me 
from  giving  a  general  idea  of  Philadelphia,  I  must,  on  quitting 
it,  take  a  retrospective  view,  and  consider  at  once  its  present 
state  and  the  destiny  which  seems  to  await  it.  In  observing 
its  geographical  situation,  we  may  readily  admit  that  Penn 
proceeded  upon  no  erroneous  idea,  when  he  conceived  his 
plan  of  making  it  one  day  the  capital  of  America.  Two  large 
rivers,*  which  take  their  rise  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Lake 
Ontario,  convey  to  it  the  riches  of  all  the  interior  parts  of  the 
country,  and  at  length,  by  their  jtfaotion  considerably  higher 
up,  form  a  magnificent  port  at  this  city.  This  port  is  at  once 
far  enough  from  the  sea  to  shelter  it  from  every  insult ;  and  so 
near,  as  to  render  it  as  easy  of  access  as  if  situated  on  the 
shore  of  the  ocean.  The  Schuylkill,  which  runs  to  the  west  of 
Philadelphia,  and  nearly  parallel  with  the  Delaware,  is  rather 
ornamental  than  useful  to  this  city  and  its  commerce.  This 
river,  though  wide  and  beautiful  near  its  conflux,  is  not  navi 
gable  for  boats,  on  account  of  its  shallow  and  rocky  bed. 
Philadelphia,  placed  between  these  two  rivers,  on  a  neck  of 
land  only  three  miles  broad,  ought  to  fill  up  this  space,  but 
commerce  has  given  it  another  turn.  The  regular  plan  of 
William  Penn  has  been  followed,  but  the  buildings  are  along 
the  Delaware,  for  the  convenience  of  being  near  the  ware* 
houses  and  shipping.  Front-street,  which  is  parallel  with  the 
river,  is  near  three  miles  long,  out  of  which  open  upwards  of 
two  hundred  quays,  forming  so  many  views  terminated  by  ves 
sels  of  different  sizes. f  I  could  easily  form  an  idea  of  the 


*  The  two  branches  of  the  Delaware  form  two  considerable  rivers, 
the  sources  of  which  are  distant  several  miles  from  each  other,  but 
they  are  only  distinguished  by  the  names  of  the  Eastern  and  Western 
Branches. 

t  The  author  has  by  no  means  given  an  adequate  idea  of  Philadelphia, 
which,  however,  has  so  often  been  described  as  to  render  it  less  neces 
sary  ;  but  as  he  names  only  one  street  extending  along  the  river,  it  may 

. 


152  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

commerce  of  Philadelphia,  from  seeing  above  three  hundred 
vessels  in  the  harbour,  though  the  English  had  not  left  a  single 
bark  in  it  in  1778.  Two  years  tranquillity,  and,  above  all,  the 
diversion  made  by  our  squadron  at  Rhode-Island,  have  sufficed 
to  collect  this  great  number  of  vessels,  the  success  of  which  in 
privateering,  as  well  as  in  trade,  have  filled  the  warehouses 
with  goods,  insomuch  that  purchasers  alone  are  wanting.  The 
wisdom  of  the  legislative  council,  however,  has  not  correspond 
ed  with  the  advantages  lavished  by  nature.  Pennsylvania  is 
very  far  from  being  the  best  governed  of  the  United  States. 
Exposed,  more  than  others,  to  the  convulsions  of  credit,  and 
to  the  manoeuvres  of  speculation,  the  instability  of  the  public 
wealth  has  operated  on  the  legislation  itself.  An  attempt  was 
made  to  fix  the  value  of  the  paper  currency,  but  commodities 
augmented  in  price,  in  proportion  as  money  lost  its  value ;  a 
resolution  was  then  taken  to  fix  the  price  also  of  commodities, 
which  almost  produced  a  famine.  A  more  recent  error  of  the 
government,  was  the  law  prohibiting  the  exportation  of  corn. 
The  object  they  had  in  view,  was  on  one  hand  to  supply  the 
American  army  at  a  cheaper  rate,  and  on  the  other,  to  put  a. 
stop  to  the  contraband  trade  between  Philadelphia  and  New- 
York  ;  the  ruin  of  the  farmers  and  the  state  was  the  result, 
as  the  latter  could  not  obtain  payment  of  the  taxes.  This  law 
is  just  repealed,  so  that  I  hope  agriculture  will  resume  its  vi 
gour,  and  commerce  receive  an  increase.  Corn  sent  to  the 
army  will  be  something  dearer,  but  there  will  be  more  money 


be  proper  to  observe,  that  parallel  with  Front-street,  are  second,  third, 
fourth,Jlfth,  and  sixth  streets  ;  these  are  intersected  at  right  angles  by 
Arch-street,  State-street,  and  Market-street,  &,c.  &/c.  the  latter,  which 
is  of  a  great  breadth,  and  length,  and  cuts  the  centre  of  the  city,  would 
be  one  of  the  finest  streets  in  the  world,  were  it  not  for  the  market 
.situated  in  the  middle  of  it ;  but  the  upper  part  is  occupied  by  the 
houses  of  opulent  citizens,  and  will  in  time  become  truly  noble.  It 
may  be  added,  that  so  far  from  the  buildings  following  the  river,  they 
are  extended  rapidly  towards  the  common,  where  many  new  streets 
were  marked  out  and  begun  in  1782  ;  and  it  may  safely  be  predicted 
that  if  the  trade  of  Philadelphia  continue  to  flourish,  the  plan  of  Wil 
liam  Penn  will  be  accomplished,  judging  from  the  very  rapid  progress 
of  the  past,  at  no  very  distant  period,  and  the  ground  be  covered  with 
perhaps,  the  noblest  of  modern  cities,  extending  from  the  Delaware  to 
the  Schuylkill.  This  will  be  accelerated  too,  by  the  sale  of  the  com 
mon,  which  was  taken  by  the  Assembly  from  the  proprietor,  Mr.  John 
Penn,  at  the  beginning  of  the  revolution,  with  the  rest  of  the  proprie 
tary  estate,  in  consideration  of  a  certain  sum,  and  disposed  of  in  lot? 
to  the  best  bidders. — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  153 

to  pay  for  it ;.  and  should  there  be  some  smuggling  with  New- 
York,  English  money  will  circulate  among  their  enemies.* 

It  were  greatly  to  be  wished  that  paper  might  at  length  ob 
tain  an  established  credit,  no  matter  what  value  ;  for  it  signi 
fies  little:  whether  the  price  of  a  sheep  be  represented  by  one 
hundred  and  fifty  paper  dollars,  or  two  dollars  in  specie. 
This  depreciation  of  the  paper  is  not  felt  in  those  places  where 
it  remains  the  same  ;  but  Philadelphia  is,  so  to  speak,  the  great 
sink,  wherein  all  the  speculations  of  America  terminate,  and 
are  confounded  together.  Since  the  capture  of  Charleston, 
many  of  the  inhabitants  of  Carolina  hastily  sold  their  estates 
and  crops,  and  having  been  only  paid  in  paper,  they  brought 
this  article  with  them  to  Philadelphia  already  overstocked  with 
it.f  The  quakers  and  tories,  on  the  other  hand,  with  which 


*  The  votes  of  the  House  of  Commons,  and  the  account  of  Mes 
sieurs  Drummond  and  Harley,  will  show  the  immense  sums,  in  Portu 
gal  and  Spanish  gold  alone,  sent  to  America ;  these,  as  well  as  Eng 
lish  guineas,  found  their  way,  towards  the  middle  period  of  the  war, 
in  great  abundance  into  the  American  part  of  the  continent,  where 
they  circulated  in  a  variety  of  mutilated  forms,  the  moidores,  and  six- 
and-thirties,  had  all  of  them  holes  punched  in  them,  or  were  otherwise 
diminished  at  New- York,  before  they  were  suffered  to  pass  the  lines  ; 
from  whence  they  obtained  the  name  of  Robertson? s^  in  the  rebel 
country ;  but.  the  profits,  if  any,  of  that  commander,  on  this  new 
edition  of  the  coin,  remain  a  secret.  In  the  country,  almost  all  the 
specie  of  every  denomination  was  cut  by  individuals,  and  appeared 
under  the  forms  of  half,  quarter,  and  eighth  parts,  the  latter  of  which 
received  the  name  of  sharp  shins ;  by  this  arbitrary  division  of  the 
money,  which  was  never  weighed,  great  frauds  were  inevitable. — - 
Trans. 

t  The  wonderful  resources  derived  in  the  commencement  from  this 
paper  money,  its  extraordinary  depreciation,  and  total  disappearance 
without  producing  any  great  shock,  or  convulsion  in  an  infant  country, 
struggling  with  a  complication  of  difficulties,  will  certainly  form  an 
epocha  in  the  general  history  of  finances,  as  well  as  in  that  of  this  great 
revolution.  I  saw  hundreds  of  millions  of  paper  dollars  piled  up,  effa 
ced,  in  the  office  of  Congress  at  Philadelphia,  which,  never  possessing 
any  real  value,  had  served  all  the  purposes  of  a  difficult,  and  uncom 
monly  expensive  war,  and  were  now  quietly  laid  aside,  with  scarce  a 
murmur  on  the  part  of  the  public  ;  the  variety  of  the  depreciation,  at 
different  periods,  and  in  different  parts  of  the  Continent,  whilst  it  gave 
rise  to  great  temporary  abuses,  had  been  so  divided,  and  balanced,  by 
alternate  profit  and  loss  among  all  classes  of  citizens,  that  on  casting 
up  the  account,  some  very  unfortunate  cases  excepted,  it  seems  to 
have  operated  only  as  a  general  tax  on  the  public  ;  and  the  universal 
joy  on  its  annihilation,  with  the  satisfactory  reflection  on  the  necessity 
under  which  if  was  issued  in  the  critical  moment  of  danger,  seemed  U» 

•20 


154  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

this  province  abounds,  two  classes  of  men  equally  dangerous, 
one  from  their  timidity,  and  the  other  from  their  bad  inten 
tions,  are  incessantly  labouring  to  secure  their  fortune  ;  they 
lavish  the  paper  for  a  little  gold  or  silver,  to  enable  them  to 
remove  wherever  they  may  think  themselves  in  safety  ;  from 
these  reasons,  the  paper  money  is  more  and  more  decried,  not 
only  because  it  is  too*  common,  but  because  gold  and  silver  are 
extremely  scarce,  and  difficult  to  be  obtained. 

In  the  midst  of  these  convulsions  the  government  is  without 
force,  nor  can  it  be  otherwise.     A  popular  government  can 
never  have  any,  whilst  the  people  are  unsteady  and  fluctuating 
in  their  opinions  ;  for  then  the  leaders  rather  seek  to  please, 
than  serve  them  ;  obliged  to  gain  their  confidence  before  they 
merit  it.  they  are  more  inclined  to  flatter,  than  instruct  them, 
and  fearing  to  lose  the  favour  they  have  acquired,  they  finish 
by  becoming  the  slaves  of  the  multitude  whom  they  pretended 
to  govern.     Mr.  Franklin  has  been  blamed  for  giving  too  de- 
mocratical  a  government  to  his  country,  but  they  who  censure 
him  do  not  reflect  that  the  first  step  was  to  make  her  renounce 
monarchical  government,  and  that  it  was  necessary  to  employ  a 
sort  of  seduction  in  order  to  conduct  a  timid  and  avaricious 
people  to  independence,  who  were  besides  so  divided  in  their 
opinions,  that  the  republican  party  was  scarcely  stronger  than 
the  other.     Under  these  circumstances  he  acted  like  Solon ;  he 
has  not  given  the  best  possible  laws  to  Pennsylvania,  but  the 
best  of  which  the  country  was  susceptible.     Time  will  produce 
perfection  ;  in  pleading  to  recover  an  estate,  the  first  object  is 
to  obtain  possession,  the  rest  follows  of  course.* 

conciliate  all  minds,  to  a  total  oblivion  of  its  partial  mischief.  Here 
and  there  great  fortunes  are  to  be  seen,  reared  upon  its  now  visionary 
basis,  and  families  reduced  from  opulence  to  mediocrity  by  means  of 
this  destructive  medium,  but  these  instances  are  by  no  means  so  fre 
quent  as  they  have  been  represented  in  Europe,  and  were  often  the 
result  of  ill  judged,  but  avaricious  speculations  ;  but  I  repeat  it,  that 
the  continued  use,  the  general  circulation,  the  astonishing  deprecia 
tion,  and  total  destruction  of  such  an  immense  imaginary  property, 
will  always  exhibit  a  phcenomenon  infinitely  more  striking,  than  that  a 
few,  or  even  a  great  number  of  individuals  should  have  suffered,  as 
must  always  be  the  case  in  every  civil  commotion.  The  fact  is  unpa 
ralleled,  and  will  probably  stand  single  in  the  annals  of  the  world. — 
Trans. 

*  The  author  might  have  added  in  corroboration  of  his  argument, 
that  the  constitution  of  Pennsylvania  is,  for  this  reason,  only  a  consti 
tution  of  experiment,  from  seven  years  to  seven  years,  in  which  it  is  ex 
pressly  reserved  to  a  Council  of  Censors,  to  revise  the  past  operations 
of  government,  to  judge  of  the  effects  produced  from  it  as  then  consti- 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA  l&i 

Philadelphia  contains  about  forty  thousand  inhabitants.  The 
streets  are  large  and  regular,  and  intersect  each  other  at  right 
angles.  There  are  footways  here,  as  in  London  for  the  pas 
sengers.  This  city  has  every  useful  establishment,  such  as 
hospitals,  workhouses,  houses  of  correction,  &c.  but  it  is  so  de 
ficient  in  an  essential  article  of  comfort  and  enjoyment,  that 
there  is  not  a  single  public  walk.*  The  reason  of  this  is,  that 
hitherto  every  thing  concerning  the  police,  and  particular 
government  of  the  city  has  been  in  the  hands  of  the  quakers, 
and  these  sectaries  consider  every  species  of  private  or  public 
amusement  as  a  transgression  of  their  law,  and  as  a  pomp  of  Sa 
tan.  Fortunately,  the  little  zeal,  (to  say  no  more)  they  have 
displayed  on  the  present  crisis,  has  made  them  lose  their  credit. 
This  revolution  comes  very  opportunely,  at  a  time  when  the 
public  has  derived  every  benefit  from  them  they  could  expect ; 
the  walls  of  the  house  are  finished,  it  is  time  to  call  in  the  car 
penters  and  upholsterers. 

It  is  time  also  for  me  to  return  to  Princeton,  to  continue  my 
journey  to  Albany,  by  New-Windsor,  General  Washington's 
head-quarters.  I  intended  setting  out  early  on  the  17th;  it 
was  necessary,  in  fact,  to  be  alert,  that  I  might  reach  Morris- 
town,  but  my  baggage  horse  not  being  able  to  pass  the  Dela 
ware,  at  the  same  time  with  myself,  I  left  one  of  my  people  to 
wait  for,  and  conduct  him.  It  so  happened  that  neither  the 
servant  I  was  waiting  for,  nor  the  other  arrived.  One  of  the 
servants  was  an  Irishman,  the  other  a  German,  both  newly  en 
tered  into  my  service.  As  soon  as  I  saw  the  morning  of  the 
17th  approach,  without  their  Peking  their  appearance,  the 
neighbourhood  of  New-Yori  began  to  give  me  some  uneasi- 


tuted,  and  to  call  a  general  convention  of  the  people,  for  the  purpose  of 
amending  the  deficient  parts  and  of  correcting  its  exuberancies  and 
vices.  It  is  a  glorious  experiment,  worthy  the  philanthropic  heart,  and 
the  enlightened  understanding  of  DOCTOR  FRANKLIN, — Quod  felix, 
faustumque  sit ! —  Trans. 

*  The  city  of  Philadelphia  is  not  only  at  present  destitute  of  public 
walks,  but,  in  summer,  the  heat  renders  walking  in  the  streets  intole 
rably  inconvenient ;  the  houses  and  footpaths  being  generally  of  brick, 
are  not  even  cooled  until  some  hours  after  sunset.  This  extreme 
heat,  and  the  abundance  of  excellent  water,  with  which  Philadelphia 
is  supplied,  occasion  many  accidents  among  the  lower  class  of  people, 
for  it  is  no  uncommon  thing  to  see  a  labourer  after  quenching  his 
thirst  at  a  pump,  drop  down  dead  upon  the  spot,  nor  can  the  nume 
rous  examples  of  this  kind  every  summer,  prevent  them  from  fre 
quently  occurring ;  but  it  is  to  be  observed,  that  if  the  heat  be  in 
tense,  the  water  is  uncommonly  cold. — Trans, 


15G  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

ness.  I  was  apprehensive  they  might  have  taken  that  road 
with  my  little  baggage,  and  I  was  already  making  dispositions 
to  pursue  them,  when,  to  my  great  satisfaction,  I  saw  the  head 
of  my  baggage  column  appear,  that  is,  one  of  the  three  horses 
which  were  left  behind,  the  remainder  following  soon  after.* 

*  After  Sir  Guy  Carleton's  arrival  at  New- York  with  the  vote  of 
Parliament  to  discontinue  offensive  war,  the  translator,  who  was  tra 
velling  to  the  northward,  and  meant  to  call  on  General  Washington, 
then  in  camp  at  Verplank's-Point,  on  the  North  River,  thought  he 
might  with  safety  take  the  lower  road  by  Brunswick  and  Elizabeth- 
town,  but  he  had  not  been  an  hour  in  bed,  before  he  and  his  compa 
nion,  a  surgeon  in  the  American  army,  were  alarmed  by  a  scattering 
fire  of  musketry.  Before  they  had  time  to  dress  themselves,  and  take 
their  pistols,  the  landlord  entered  their  apartment,  and  informed  them, 
that  a  party  from  Staten-Island  was  marching  towards  the  town,  and 
advised  them  to  make  their  escape ;  with  much  difficulty  they  got 
their  horses  out  of  the  stable,  hid  their  baggage  in  the  church-yard, 
and  hearing  the  English  officer  order  his  men  to  form  at  the  end  of 
the  town,  they  took  different  roads,  leaving  their  servants,  who  were, 
one  a  Scotch  prisoner  to  the  Americans,  the  other  an  English  deserter, 
and  whose  conduct  appeared  very  suspicious,  to  take  care  of  them 
selves,  and  the  horses  they  rode  on.  The  translator,  who  followed 
the  great  road  to  Newark,  was  mounted  on  a  white  horse,  which 
made  him  a  good  object,  and  had  several  shot  fired  at  him,  but  the 
ground  rising,  and  his  horse  going  at  full  gallop,  the  balls  luckily  fell 
short.  After  endeavouring  to  rouse  the  country,  but  without  being 
able  to  collect  a  sufficient  foi?,e,  he  took  shelter  at  an  honest  carpen 
ter's,  about  a  mile  from  the  town,  where  he  remained  till  a  little  be 
fore  daybreak,  when  concluding  from  the  general  silence,  that  the 
party  had  retired,  he  returned,  and  went  to  search  for  his  baggage  in 
the  church-yard,  for  which,  however,  he  sought  in  vain,  and  his  anx 
iety  was  not  a  little  increased  on  not  finding  his  other  horse  in  the 
stable,  nor  seeing  either  of  the  servants.  But  from  which  he  was 
soon  relieved  by  his  friend,  who  had  watched  the  first,  moment  of  the 
enemy's  departure,  ordered  the  baggage  up  into  his  room,  aid  assured 
him  that  the  servants  had  conducted  themselves  with  the  greatest 
fidelity.  His  alarm  was,  it  seems,  much  greater  than  that  of  the 
translator,  as  General  Washington  had  declared  publicly  in  orders, 
that  any  officer  of  his  army,  taken  near  the  lines,  unless  on  duty, 
should  be  the  last  exchanged.  The  translator  imagines  the  party  to 
have  been  Refugees  from  Staten-Island,  who,  from  their  separate  insti 
tution,  under  the  direction  of  a  Board,  not  unfrequently  set  at  defi 
ance  the  orders  of  the  Commander-in-Chief ;  a  remarkable  instance 
of  which  occurred  in  the  case  of  Captain  Huddy,  whom  they  obtain 
ed,  under  false  pretences,  from  the  guard-house,  where  he  was  a  pri 
soner,  and  murdered  without  either  scruple  or  apprehension.  All 
Europe  knows  the  consequence,  in  the  imminent  danger  of  Captain 
Asritt;  and  all  America  saw  with  shame  and  indignation  the  English 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA,  157 

To  pass  the  time,  however,  I  entered  into  conversation  with 
my  landlord,  Colonel  Howard,  who  is  a  very  good  man,  and 
with  his  son  the  Captain,  a  great  talker,  and  genuine  Capitan. 
He  recounted  to  me  with  many  gestures,  oaths  and  impreca 
tions,  all  his  feats  of  prowess  in  the  war  ;  especially  at  the  af 
fair  of  Princeton,  where  he  served  as  a  lieutenant  of  militia 
in  his  father's  regiment ;  and  indeed  the  action  he  boasted  of 
would  have  merited  an  eulogium,  had  he  related  it  with  simpli 
city.  We  may  recollect  that  after  beating  the  English,  Ge 
neral  Washington  continued  his  route  towards  Middlebrook. 
An  American  officer,  who  had  his  leg  broke  by  a  musket  ball, 
was  dragged  into  a  house,  where  the  English  sooner  or  later 
must  have  found  him  :  young  Howard,  and  some  soldiers  as 
well  disposed  as  himself,  set  out  at  night  from  Middlebrook, 
took  a  circuitous  road,  arrived  at  the  house,  found  the  officer, 
took  him  on  their  shoulders  and  carried  him  to  their  quarters. 
During  the  remainder  of  the  winter,  the  Jersey  militia  were 
constantly  under  arms  to  restrain  the  English,  who  occupied 
Elizabethtown  and  Brunswick.  It  was  a  sort  of  continual 
chace,  to  which  Lieutenant  Howard  one  day  led  his  little  bro 
ther,  a  boy  of  fifteen,  and  who  was  lucky  enough  to  begin  his 
career  by  killing  a  Hessian  grenadier  ;  as  these  stories  were 
very  tedious,  I  shall  drop  them  here,  for  fear  of  not  improving 
on  the  narration :  I  must  mention  however,  the  manner  in  which 
my  Capitan  entered  into  the  service,  as  it  will  serve  to  discover 
the  spirit  which  reigned  in  America  at  the  beginning  of  the 
present  revolution.  He  was  an  apprentice  to  a  hatter  at  the 
time  of  the  affair  of  Lexington,  and  the  blockade  of  Boston  ; 
three  of  his  companions  and  himself  set  out  one  morning  from 
Philadelphia  with  four  dollars  among  them  in  their  pockets  : 
they  travelled  four  hundred  miles  on  foot  to  join  the  army,  in 
which  they  served  as  volunteers  the  remainder  of  the  cam 
paign  ;  from  thence  they  set  out  with  Arnold  on  his  expedition 
to  Canada,  and  did  not  return  home  until  the  theatre  of  war 
was  removed  into  their  own  country. 

Eleven  o'clock  had  struck  before  I  could  rally  the  horses  in 
my  train,  and  begin  my  march  ;  I  abandoned  therefore  the 
plan  of  sleeping  at  Morristown,  and  determined  to  stop  at 
Baskenridge,  eight  miles  nearer  Princeton.  I  first  left  the 
Millstone  on  the  right,  then  crossed  it  twice  before  I  reached 
the  Rariton,  which  I  passed  at  the  same  place  ;  as  in  my  jour 
ney  to  Philadelphia.  Three  miles  from  thence  I  was  told  to 


general  unable  to  enforce  discipline  in  his  own  army,  and  shrinking 
under  the  apprehensions  of  irritating  Governor  Franklin,  and  his  err- 
venomed  board  of  Loyalists. — Trans. 


1&  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA 

take  a  road  to  the  right,  which  leads  into  the  woods,  and  over 
the  summit  of  the  hills ;  this  route  was  opened  for  the  army, 
during  the  winter  quarters  of  1778 — 9;   it  appears  to  have 
been  made  with  care,  and  is  still  passable ;  but  after  some 
time,  daylight  failing  me,  I  lost  myself,  and  went  a  mile  or  two 
out  of  my  way.     Luckily  for  me,  I  found  a  hut  inhabited  by 
some  new  settlers;  there  I  got  a  guide  who  conducted  me  to 
Baskenridge,  where  I  arrived  at  seven  o'clock,  and  alighted  at 
Bullion's  Tavern,  got  tolerable  lodgings,  with  the  best  people 
in  the  world.     Our  supper  was  very  good  :    bread  only  was 
wanting  ;  but,  inquiring  of  us  what  sort  we  liked,  in  an  hour's 
time  we  had  such  as  we  desired.     This  will  appear  less  extra 
ordinary,  on  being  told  that  in  America,  little  cakes,  which  are 
easily  kneaded  and  baked  in  half  an  hour,  are  often  substituted 
for  bread.     Possibly  one  would  soon  tire  of  them,  but  they 
suited  my  taste  extremely  well.     Mr.  Bullion  had  two  white 
servants,  one  a  man  about  fifty,  the  other  a  woman,  younger, 
with  a  tolerable  good  face  :  I  had  the  curiosity  to  inquire  what 
wages  he  gave  them,  and  was  told  that  the  man  earned  half  a 
crown  a  day  and  the  woman  six  shillings  a  week,  or  ten  pence 
a  day.     If  we  pay  attention  to  the  circumstance,  that  these 
servants  are  lodged  and  fed,  and  have  no  expenses,  we  may 
see  that  it  is  easy  for  them  very  shortly  to  acquire  a  piece  of 
ground,  and  to  form  such  a  settlement  as  I  have  described. 

The  18th  I  set  out  at  eight  in  the  morning,  and  made  only 
one  stage  to  Pompton ;  which  is  six  and  thirty  miles,  without 
baiting  my  horses  or  stopping,  except  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour 
to  pay  a  visit  to  General  Wayne,  whose  quarters  were  on  the 
main  road.     He  was  posted  to  cover  the  Jerseys,  and  had  under 
his  orders  the  same  Pennsylvania  line  which  revolted  a  fort 
night  after.     I  again  saw  with  pleasure  the  environs  of  Morris- 
town,  which  are  agreeable  and    well  cultivated ;    but  after 
passing  the  Rockaway,  and  approaching  Pompton,  I  was  as 
tonished  at  the  degree  of  perfection  to  which  agriculture  is 
carried,  and  particularly  admired  the  farms  of  Messit  urs  Man- 
deville.     They  are  the  sons  of  a  Dutchman,  who  first  cleared 
the  ground   from  which  they  now  reap  such  rich  harvests. 
Their  domains  join  each  other.     In  each  of  them  the  manor  is 
very  simple  and  small,  the  barns  alone  are  lofty  and  spacious. 
Always  faithful  to  their  national  economy,  they  cultivate,  reap, 
and  sell,  without  augmenting  either  their  houses  or  their  enjoy 
ments  ;  content  with  living  in  a  corner  of  their  farm,  and  with 
being  only  the  spectators  of  their  own  wealth.     By  the  side  of 
these  old  farms  we  see  new  settlements  forming,  and  have  more 
and  more  reason  to  be  convinced,  that  if  the  war  has  retarded 
the  progress  of  agriculture  and  population,  it  has  not  entirely 
suspended  them.     The  night,  which  surprised  me  on  my  jour- 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  159 

uey,  deprived  me  of  the  beautiful  prospect  this  country  would 
have  continued  to  afford.  Being  very  dark,  it  was  not  without 
difficulty  I  passed  two  or  three  rivulets,  on  very  small  bridges, 
and  got  to  Courtheath's  Tavern.  This  inn  is  lately  established, 
and  kept  by  young  people  without  fortune,  consequently  the 
best  parts  of  the  furniture  are  the  owner  and  his  family.  Mr. 
Courtheath  is  a  young  man  of  four  and  twenty,  who  was  former 
ly  a  travelling  dealer  in  stuffs,  toys,  &c.  The  depreciation  of 
paper  money,  or  perhaps  his  own  imprudence  so  far  ruined  him 
as  to  oblige  him  to  leave  his  house  at  Morristown,  and  set  up  a 
tavern  in  this  out  of  the  way  place,  where  nothing  but  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  army  can  procure  him  a  few  customers. 
He  has  two  handsome  sisters,  well  dressed  girls,  who  wait  on 
travellers  with  grace  and  coquetry.  Their  brother  says,  he 
will  marry  them  to  some  fat  clumsy  Dutchmen,  and  that  as  for 
himself,  as  soon  as  he  has  got  a  little  money,  he  shall  resume  his 
commerce,  and  travel  about  as  formerly.  On  entering  the  par 
lour,  where  these  young  women  sit,  when  there  are  no  stran 
gers,  I  found  on  a  great  table,  Milton,  Mdison,  Richardson, 
and  several  other  works  of  that  kind.  The  cellar  was  not  so 
well  stored  as  the  library,  for  there  was -/neither  wine,  cider, 
nor  rum ;  nothing  in  start  but  some  vile  cider-brandy,  with 
which  I  must  make  grog.  The  bill  they  presented  me  the 
next  morning  amounted  nevertheless  to  sixteen  dollars.*  I  ob- 

*  Travelling  in  America  was  wonderfully  expensive  during  the  war, 
even  after  the  abolition  of  paper  money,  and  when  all  payments  were 
made  in  specie  ;  you  could  not  remain  at  an  inn,  even  the  most  indif 
ferent,  one  night,  with  a  servant  and  two  horses,  living  in  the  most 
moderate  way,  under  from  five  to  eight  dollars.  At  Grant's  Tavern 
at  Baltimore,  where  the  translator  staid  some  days,  with  only  one 
horse  and  no  servant,  though  he  either  dined  or  supped  out  every  day, 
he  never  escaped  for  less  than  five  dollars.  I  cannot  here  avoid 
relating  the  pleasant  manner  in  which  one  Bell,  a  shrewd  Scotch  book 
seller  and  auctioneer  of  Philadelphia,  paid  his  bills  in  travelling 
through  the  country.  I  had  given  him  at  Irish  copy  of  Sheridan's 
School  for  Scandal,  with  the  prologue  and  epilogue  taken  from  Dods- 
ley's  Annual  Register,  which  he  reprinted  and  sold  for  a  dollar.  In 
travelling  through  Virginia  some  months  after,  I  was  surprised  to  see 
in  many  of  the  inns,  even  in  the  most  remote  parts  of  the  country,  this 
celebrated  comedy  ;  and,  upon  inquiry,  found  that  Mr.  Bell,  who  tra 
velled  with  his  family  in  a  covered  cart,  had  passed  in  his  way  to  the 
Springs,  (the  Harrowgate,  or  Matlock  of  America)  and  successfully 
circulated  in  payment  this  new  species  of  paper  currency  ;  for,  as  he 
observed,  "  Who  would  not  prefer  Sheridan's  Sterling,  to  the  coun 
terfeit  creations  of  Congress,  or  even  of  Robert  Morris  ?"  Nor  was 
any  depreciation  attempted,  where  the  intrinsic  value  was  so  unequivo 
cally  stamped  with  the  character  of  wit  and  freedom. — TVwtt*. 


ICU  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

served  to  Mr.  Courtheath,  that  if  he  made  one  pay  for  being 
waited  on  by  his  pretty  sisters,  it  was  by  much  too  little  ;  but 
if  only  for  lodgings  and  supper,  it  was  a  great  deal.  He  seem 
ed  a  little  ashamed  at  having  charged  too  high,  and  offered  to 
make  a  pretty  considerable  abatement,  which  I  refused,  con 
tent  with  having  shewn  him,  that  though  a  foreigner,  I  was  no 
stranger  to  the  price  of  articles,  and  satisfied  with  the  excuse 
he  made  me,  that  being  himself  a  stranger  and  without  proper 
ty  in  the  country,  he  was  obliged  to  purchase  every  thing.  I 
learnt,  on  this  occasion,  that  he  hired  the  inn  he  kept,  as  well 
as  a  large  barn  which  served  for  his  stable,  and  a  garden  of  two 
or  three  acres,  for  eighty-four  bushels  of  corn  a  year :  in  fact, 
the  depreciation  of  paper  has  compelled  people  to  this  manner 
of  making  bargains,  which  is  perhaps  the  best  of  all,  but  is 
unquestionably  an  effectual  remedy  to  the  present  disorder. 

At  eight  o'clock  I  took  leave  of  my  landlord  and  young 
landladies,  to  penetrate  through  the  woods  by  a  road  with 
which  nobody  was  very  well  acquainted.  The  country  I  was 
to  pass  through,  called  the  Clove,  is  extremely  wild,  and  was 
scarcely  known  before  the  war :  it  is  a  sort  of  valley,  or  gorge, 
situated  to  the  westward  of  the  high  mountains  between  New- 
Windsor  and  King's  ferry,  and  at  the  foot  of  which  are  West- 
Point  and  Stony-Point,  and  the  principal  forts  which  defend 
the  river.  In  times  when  the  river  is  not  navigable,  on  account  of 
ice,  or  contrary  winds,  it  is  necessary  to  have  communication  by 
land  between  the  states  of  New- York  and  the  Jerseys,  between 
New-Windsor  and  Morristown.  This  communication  traversing 
the  Clove  when  General  Green  was  Q-uarter-Master-General,  he 
opened  a  road  for  the  convoys  of  provisions  and  the  artillery. 
This  was  the  road  I  took,  leaving  on  my  right  the  Romopog  road, 
and  ascending  by  that  which  comes  from  Ring  wood.  Ring- 
wood  is  only  a  hamlet  of  seven  or  eight  houses,  formed  by 
Mrs.  Erskine's  manor  and  the  forges,  which  are  profitable 
to  her.  I  had  been  told  that  I  should  find  there  all  sorts  of 
conveniences,  whether  in  point  of  lodgings,  if  I  chose  to  stop, 
or  in  procuring  every  information  I  might  stand  in  need  of. 
As  it  was  early  in  the  day,  and  I  had  travelled  but  twelve 
miles,  I  alighted  at  Mrs.  Erskine's,  only  to  desire  her  to  point 
out  to  me  some  inn  where  I  might  sleep,  or  to  recommend  me 
to  some  hospitable  quarters.  I  entered  a  very  handsome  house 
where  every  body  was  in  mourning,  Mr.  Erskine  being  dead 
two  months  before.  Mrs.  Erskine,  his  widow,  is  about  forty,  and 
did  not  appear  the  less  fresh  or  tranquil  for  her  misfortune.  She 
had  with  her  one  of  her  nephews,  and  Mr.  John  Fell,  a  mem 
ber  of  Congress.  They  gave  me  all  the  necessary  information , 
and  after  drinking  a  glass  of  Madeira,  according  to  the  custom 
of  the  country,  which  will  not  allow  you  to  leave  a  house  with- 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  Itil 

out  tasting  something,  I  got  on  horseback,  and  penetrated 
afresh  into  the  woods,  mounting  and  descending  very  high 
mountains,  until  I  found  myself  on  the  borders  of  a  lake,  so 
solitary  and  concealed,  that  it  is  only  visible  through  the  trees 
with  which  it  is  surrounded.  The  declivities  which  form  its 
banks  are  so  steep,  that  if  a  deer  made  a  false  step  on  the  top 
of  the  mountain,  he  would  infallibly  roll  into  the  lake,  without 
being  able  to  rise  up.  This  lake  which  is  not  marked  upon 
the  charts,  and  is  called  Duck  Sider,  is  about  three  miles  long 
and  two  wide.  I  was  now  in  the  wildest  and  most  desert  coun 
try  I  had  yet  passed  through  ;  my  imagination  was  already  en 
joying  this  solitude,  and  my  eyes  were  searching  through  the 
woods  for  some  extraordinary  animals,  such  as  elks  or  caribous 
(supposed  to  be  the  same  as  the  reindeer)  when  I  perceived, 
in  an  open  spot,  a  quadruped  which  seemed  very  large.  I 
started  with  joy,  and  was  advancing  slowly,  but  on  a  nearer 
observation  of  the  monster  of  the  desert,  to  my  great  regret  I 
discovered  it  to  be  a  horse  peaceably  browsing  the  grass ;  and 
the  opening,  no  other  than  a  field  belonging  to  a  new  settle 
ment.  On  advancing  a  few  steps  farther,  I  met  two  children 
of  eight  or  ten  years  old,  returning  quietly  from  school  carry 
ing  under  their  arms  a  little  basket,  and  a  large  book.  Thus 
was  I  obliged  to  lay  aside  all  the  ideas  of  a  poet  or  a  sports 
man,  to  admire  this  new  country,  where  one  cannot  travel  four 
miles  without  finding  a  dwelling,  nor  find  one  which  is  not, 
within  reach  of  every  possible  succour,  as  well  in  the  natu 
ral  as  in  the  moral  order.  These  reflections,  and  the  fine 
weather  we  had  all  the  afternoon,  made  the  end  of  my  day's 
journey  very  agreeable.  At  the  beginning  of  the  night,  1  ar 
rived  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Smith,  who  formerly  kept  an  inn, 
though  at  present  he  lodges  only  his  friends ;  but  as  I  had  not 
the  honour  to  be  of  that  number,  I  was  obliged  to  go  a  little 
farther,  to  Hern's  tavern,  a  very  indifferent  house,  where  I 
supped  and  slept.  I  left  it  the  19th,  as  early  as  possible; 
having  still  twelve  miles  to  New-Windsor,  and  intending  to 
stay  only  one  night,  I  was  anxious  to  pass  at  least  the  greatest 
part  of  the  day  with  General  Washington.  I  met  him  two 
miles  from  New-Windsor ;  he  was  in  his  carriage  with  Mrs. 
Washington,  going  on  a  visit  to  Mrs.  Knox,  whose  quarters 
were  a  mile  farther  on,  near  the  artillery  barracks.  They  wish 
ed  to  return  with  me,  but  I  begged  them  to  continue  their 
way.  The  general  gave  me  one  of  his  aid-de-camps,  (Colo 
nel  Humphreys*)  to  conduct  me  to  his  house,  assured  me  that 


*  He  is  at  present  secretary  of  the  embassy  to  the  court  of  France. 
This  brave  and  excellent  soldier  is  at  the  same  time  a  poet  of  <jrrM 

21 


162  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

he  should  not  be  long  in  joining  me,  and  he  returned  accord 
ingly  in  half  an  hour.  I  saw  him  again  with  the  same  plea 
sure,  but  with  a  different  sentiment  from  what  he  had  inspired 
me  with  at  our  first  interview.  I  felt  that  internal  satisfaction, 
in  which  self-love  has  some  share,  but  which  we  always  expe 
rience  in  finding  ourselves  in  an  intimacy  already  formed,  in 
real  society  with  a  man  we  have  long  admired  without  being 
able  to  approach  him.  It  then  seems  as  if  this  great  man 
more  peculiarly  belongs  to  us  than  to  the  rest  of  mankind ; 
heretofore  we  desired  to  see  him  ;  henceforth,  so  to  speak,  we 
exhibit  him  ;  we  knew  him,  we  are  better  acquainted  with  him 
than  others,  have  the  same  advantage  over  them,  that  a  man 
having  read  a  book  through,  has  in  conversation  over  him  who 
is  only  at  the  beginning. 

The  General  insisted  on  my  lodging  with  him,  though  his 
house  was  much  less  than  that  he  had  at  Prakness.  Several 
officers,  whom  I  had  not  seen  at  the  army,  came  to  dine  with 
us.  The  principal  of  whom  were  Colonel  Malcomb,  a  native 
of  Scotland,  but  settled  in  America,  where  he  has  served  with 
distinction  in  the  continental  army  ;  he  has  since  retired  to 
his  estate,  and  is  now  only  a  militia  Colonel ;  Colonel  Smith,* 

talents  :  he  is  the  author  of  a  poem  addressed  to  the  American  army, 
a  work  recently  known  in  England,  where,  in  spite  of  the  national 
jealousy,  and  the  affectation  of  depreciating  every  thing  American,  it 
has  had  such  success,  as  to  have  been  several  times  publicly  read  in 
the  manner  of  the  ancients.  [The  Marquis  de  Chastellux  may  be  as 
sured  that  it  is  not  by  that  part  of  the  English  nation  who  are  "  jea 
lous  of  America,  and  who  affect  to  depreciate  every  thing  American," 
that  the  poem  of  Colonel  Humphreys  is  admired,  it  is  by  that  nume 
rous  and  enlightened  class  of  free  spirits,  who  have  always  supported, 
and  wished  prosperity  to  the  glorious  struggle  of  America,  who  re 
joiced  at  her  success,  and  who  look  forward  with  hope  and  pleasure 
to  her  rising  greatness. —  Trans.] 

*  The  author  having  since  been  very  intimate  with  Colonel  Smith, 
can  take  it  upon  himself  to  assert,  that  this  young  man  is  not  only  a 
very  good  soldier,  but  an  excellent  scholar.  The  manner  of  his  enter 
ing  into  the  service  merits  relation  :  he  was  designed  for  the  profess 
ion  of  the  law,  and  was  finishing  his  studies  at  New- York,  when  the 
American  army  assembled  there  after  the  unfortunate  affair  of  Long- 
Island.  He  immediately  resolved  to  take  arms  in  defence  of  his  coun 
try,  but  his  parents  disapproving  of  this  step,  he  enlisted  as  a  common 
soldier,  without  making  himself  known,  or  pretending  to  any  superior 
rank.  Being  one  day  on  duty  at  the  door  of  a  General  officer,  he  was 
discovered  by  a  friend  of  his  family,  who  spoke  of  him  to  that  General 
officer.  He  was  immediately  invited  to  dinner  ;  but  he  answered  that 
he  could  not  quit  his  duty  ;  his  corporal  was  sent  for  to  relieve  him. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  1(>3 

an  officer  highly  spoken  of,  and  who  commanded  a  battalion  of 
light  infantry  under  M.  de  la  Fayette  ;  Colonel  Humphreys, 
the  General's  aid-de-camp,  and  several  others,  whose  names 
I  have  forgot,  but  who  had  all  the  best  ton,  and  the  easiest  de 
portment.     The  dinner  was  excellent ;  tea  succeeded  dinner, 
and  conversation  succeeded  tea,  and  lasted  till  supper.     The 
war  was  frequently  the  subject :  on  asking  the  General  which 
of  our  professional  books  he  read  with  the  most  pleasure ;  he 
told  me,  the  King  of  Prussia's  Instructions  to  his  Generals,  and 
the  Tactics  of  M.  de  Guibert  ;  from  whence  I  concluded  that 
he  knew  as  well  how  to  select  his  authors  as  to  profit  by  them. 
I  should  have  been  very  happy  to  accept  of  his  pressing  in 
vitation  to  pass  a  few  days  with  him,  had  I  not  made  a  solemn 
promise,  at  Philadelphia,  to  the  Vicomte  de  Noailles,  and  his 
travelling  companions,  to  arrive  four  and  twenty  hours  after 
them  if  they  stopped  there,  or  at  Albany,  if  they  went  straight 
on.     We  were  desirous  of  seeing  Stillwater  and  Saratoga,  and 
it  would  have  been  no  easy  matter  for  us  to  have  acquired  a  just 
knowledge  of  that  country  had  we  not  been  together,  because, 
we  reckoned  upon  General  Schuyler,  who  could  not  be  expect 
ed  to  make  two  journies  to  gratify  our  curiosity.     I  was  thus 
far  faithful  to  my  engagement,  for  I  arrived  at  New-Windsor 
the  same  day  that  they  left  Cress  Point ;  I  hoped  to  overtake; 
them  at  Albany,  and  General  Washington  finding  that  he  could 
not  retain  me,  WAS  pleased  himself  to  conduct  me  in  his  barge 
to  the  other  side  of  the  river.     We  got  on  shore  at  Fishkill 
Landing  Place,  to  gain  the  eastern  road,  preferred  by  travel 
lers  to  the  western.     I  now  quitted  the  General,  but  he  insist 
ed  that  Colonel  Smith  should  accompany  me  as  far  as  Pough- 
keepsie.     The  road  to  this  town  passes  pretty  near  Fishkill, 
which  we  leave  on  the  right,  from  thence  we  travel  on  the: 
heights,  where  there  is  a  beautiful  and  extensive  prospect,  and 
traversing  a  township,  called  Middlebrook,  arrive  at  the  creek, 
and  at  Wapping  Fall.     There  I  halted  a  few  minutes  to  con 
sider,  under  different  points  of  view,  the  charming  landscape 
formed  by  this  river,  as  well  from  its  cascade,  which  is  roaring 
and  picturesque,  as  from  the  groups  of  trees  and  rocks,  which 


and  he  returned  to  his  post  after  dinner.  A  few  days  only  elapsed  .be 
fore  that  General  officer,  charmed  with  his  zeal,  made  him  his  aid-de 
camp.  In  1780,  he  commanded  a  battalion  of  light  infantry,  and  the 
year  following  was  made  aid-de-camp  to  General  Washington,  with 
whom  he  remained  until  the  peace. — [He  is  now  Secretary  to  the 
Embassy  to  the  court  of  Great  Britain,  and 'has  lately  married  the 
daughter  of  his  Excellency  John  Adams,  Minister  Plenipotentiary  to 
that  court. —  Trans.] 


104  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

combined  with  a  number  of  saw  mills  and  furnaces,  compose 
the  most  capricious  and  romantic  prospect. 

It  was  only  half  past  three  when  I  got  to  Poughkeepsie, 
where  I  intended  sleeping  ;  but  finding  that  the  sessions  were 
then  holding  and  that  all  the  taverns  were  full,  I  took  advan 
tage  of  the  little  remaining  day  to  reach  a  tavern  I  was  told  of 
at  three  miles  distance.     Colonel  Smith  who  had  business  at 
Poughkeepsie  remained  there,  and  1  was  very  happy  to  find 
myself  in  the  evening  with  nobody  but  my  two  aids-de-camp. 
It  was,  in  fact,  a  new  enjoyment  for  us  to  be  left  to  ourselves, 
at  perfect  liberty  to  give  mutual, accounts  of  the  impression 
left  on  our  minds  by  so  many  different  objects.     I  only  regret 
ted  not  having  seen  Governor  Clinton,  for  whom  I  had  letters 
of  recommendation.     He  is  a  man  who  governs  with  the  utmost 
vigour  and  firmness,  and  is  inexorable  to  the  tories,  whom  he 
makes  tremble,  though  they  are  very  numerous  :  he  has  had 
the  address  to  maintain  in  its  duty  this  province,  one  extremity 
of  which  borders  on  Canada,  the  other  on  the  city  of  New- 
York.     He  was  then  at  Poughkeepsie,  but  taken  up  with  the 
business  of  the  sessions :  besides,  Saratoga,  and  Burgoyne's 
different  fields  of  battle,  being  henceforth  the  sole  object  of 
my  journey,  I  was  wishing  to  get  forward  for  fear  of  being  hin 
dered  by  the  snow,  and  of  the  roads  becoming  impassable.    On 
my  arrival  at  Pride's  tavern,  I  asked  a  number  of  questions  of 
my  landlord  respecting  the  appearance  he  thought  there  was 
of  a  continuance  or  a  change  of  weather,  and  perceiving  that 
he  was  a  good  farmer,  I  interrogated  him  on  the  subject  of 
agriculture,  and  drew  the  following  details  from  him.     The 
land  is  very  fertile  in  Duchess  County,  of  which  Poughkeepsie 
is  the  capital,  as  well  as  in  the  state   of  New-York,  but  it  is 
commonly  left  fallow  one  year  out  of  two  or  three,  less  from  ne 
cessity  than  from  their  being  more  land  than  they  can  cultivate. 
A  bushel  of  wheat  at  most  is  sown  upon  an  acre,  which  ren 
ders  twenty,  and  five  and  twenty  for  one.     Some  farmers  sow 
oats  on  the  land  that  has  borne  wheat  the  preceding  year,  but 
this  grain  in  general  is  reserved  for  lands  newly  turned  up  :* 
flax  is  also  a  considerable  object  of  cultivation  :  the  land  is 
ploughed  with  horses,  two  or  three  to  a  plough  ;  sometimes 


*  Flax  has  become  a  very  great  and  profitable  article  of  cultivation 
in  the  Middle  and  Eastern  states,  the  principal  cultivators  are  settlers 
from  the  north  of  Ireland,  who  know  the  value  of  it  in  their  own  coun 
try.  In  Massachusetts,  there  is  a  very  considerable  and  flourishing 
settlement,  called  Londonderry,  peopled  entirely  by  emigrants  from 
that  city,  where  they  apply  themselves  particularly  to  the  growth  of 
flax. —  Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  H>a 

even  a  greater  number  when  on  new  land,  or  that  which  has 
long  lain  fallow.  Mr.  Pride,  while  he  was  giving  me  these  de 
tails,  always  flattered  me  with  the  hopes  of  fine  weather  the 
next  day.  I  went  to  rest,  highly  satisfied  with  him  and  his 
prognostics  ;  in  the  morning,  however,  when  I  awakened,  I  saw 
the  ground  already  entirely  white,  and  snow,  which  continued 
to  fall  in  abundance,  mixed  with  hail  and  ice.  There  was  no 
thing  to  be  done  under  such  circumstances,  but  to  continue  my 
journey,  as  if  it  was  fine  weather,  only  taking  a  little  better 
breakfast  than  I  should  otherwise  have  done.  But  I  regretted 
most  that  the  snow,  or  rather  small  hail  that  drove  against  my 
eyes,  prevented  me  from  seeing  the  country  ;  which,  as  far  as 
I  could  judge,  is  beautiful  and  well  cultivated.  After  travelling 
about  ten  miles,  I  traversed  the  township  of  Strasbourg,  called 
by  the  inhabitants  of  the  country,  Strattsborough.  This  town 
ship  is  five  or  six  miles  long,  yet  the  houses  are  not  far  from 
each  other.  As  I  was  remarking  one  which  was  rather  hand 
some,  the  owner  came  to  the  door,  doubtless  from  curiosity,  and 
asked  me,  in  French,  if  I  woulcL  alight,  and  step  in  and  dine 
with  him.  Nothing  can  be  more  seducing  in  bad  weather, 
than  such  a  proposal  ;  but  on  the  other  hand,  nothing  is  more 
cruel,  when  one  has  once  got  under  shelter,  than  to  quit  the 
fire-side,  a  second  time  to  expose  oneself  to  frost  and  snow. 

I  refused  therefore  the  dinner  offered  me  by  this  gallant  man. 
but  not  the  questions  he  put  to  me.  I  asked  him,  in  my  turn, 
whether  he  had  not  seen  some  French  officers  pass,  meaning 
the  Vicomte  de  Noailles,  the  Comte  de  Damos,  and  the  Cheva 
lier  de  Mauduit,  who,  as  they  had  three  or  four  servants,  and 
six  or  seven  horses,  might  have  been  remarked  on  the  road. 
My  Dutchman,  for  I  have  since  learnt  that  his  name  is  Le  Roy,* 
a  Dutch  merchant^  born  in  Europe,  and  acquainted  with  France, 
where  he  lived  some  time  ;  my  Dutchman,  replied  like  a  man 
who  knew  France,  and  who  speaks  French ;  "  Sir,  it  is  very 
true  that  the  Prince  de  Conti  passed  by  here  yesterday  evening, 
with  two  officers,  in  their  way  to  Albany."  I  could  not  disco 
ver  whether  it  was  to  the  Vicomte  de  Noailles,  or  to  the  Comte 
de  Damos,  that  I  ought  to  do  homage  for  his  principality ;  but 


*  The  translator  had  the  pleasure  of  being  well  acquainted  with  one 
of  the  sons  of  Mr.  Le  Roy,  a  most  amiable  young  man,  whom  he 
knew  at  Amsterdam,  when  residing  with  his  aunt  Madame  Chabanel. 
the  widow  of  a  rich  merchant,  who  did  a  great  deal  of  business  with 
America  previous  to  the  war.  He  saw  him  afterwards  at  Philadelphia 
and  Boston,  and  has  only  to  regret,  that  his  affairs  rendered  it  impossi 
ble  to  accept  of  a  kind  invitation  to  pay  him  a  visit  at  Strattsborough. 
Mrs.  Chabanel' s  house,  at  Amsterdam,  was  open  to  all  the  Americans 
in  Holland  during  the  war. — Trans. 


, 


166  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

as  they  are  both  my  relations,  I  answered  with  strict  truth,  that, 
my  cousin  having  gone  on  before,  I  was  very  glad  to  know  at 
what  hour  they  passed,  and  when  I  should  be  able  to  join  them  ; 
so  that  if  Mr.  Le  Roy,  as  no  doubt  he  did,  consulted  his  alma 
nack,  he  will  have  set  me  down  for  the  Duke  of  Orleans,  or  the 
Duke  of  Chartres ;  which  was  the  more  probable  as  I  had  nine 
horses  with  me,  whilst  the  Prince  de  Conti,  being  farther  re 
moved  from  the  crown,  had  only  seven. 

You  scarcely  get  out  of  Strasbourgh,  before  you  enter  the 
township  of  Rhynbeck.     It  is  unnecessary  to  observe,  that  all 
these  names  discover  a  German  origin.     At  Rhynbeck,  nobody 
came  out  to  ask  me  to  dinner.     But  this  snow  mixed  with  hail 
was  so  cold,  and  I  was  so  fatigued  with  keeping  my  horse 
from  slipping,  that  I  should  have  stopped  here  even  without 
being  invited  by  the  handsome  appearance  of  the  inn  called 
Thomas'  Inn.     It  was  no  more,  however,  than  half  past  two  ; 
but  as  I  had  already  come  three  and  twenty  miles,  the   house 
was  good,  the  fire  well  lighted,  my  host  a  tall  good  looking 
man,  a  sportsman,  a  horse  dealer,  and  disposed  to  chat,  I  de 
termined,  according  to  the  English  phrase,  to  spend  the  rest  of 
my  day  there.     The  following  is  all  I  got  interesting  from  Mr. 
Thomas.     In  time  of  peace,  he  carried  on  a  great  trade  of 
horses,  which  he  purchased  in  Canada,  and  sent  to  New- York, 
there  to  be  shipped  for  the  West-Indies.     It  is  incredible  with 
what  facility  this  trade  is  carried  on  in  winter  ;  he  assured  me 
that  he  once  went  to  Montreal,  and  brought  back  with  him, 
in  a  fortnight  seventy-five  horses  which  he  bought  there.     This 
is  effected  by  travelling  in  a  right  line,  traversing  Lake  George 
upon  ice  and  the  snow,  the  desert  between  that  Lake  and 
Montreal.      The  Canadian  horses  easily  travel  eighteen   or 
twenty  .hours  a  day,  and  three  or  four  men,  mounted,  are  suf 
ficient  to  drive  one  hundred  before  them.     "  It  was  I,"  added 
Mr.  Thomas,  "  who  made,  or  rather  who  repaired  the  fortune 
of  that  rogue,  Arnold.     He  had  conducted  his  affairs  ill,  in  the 
little  trade  he  carried  on  at  New-Haven  ;*  I  persuaded  him  to 


*  Arnold  was  brought  up  to  the  business  of  an  apothecary,  being 
taken  from  his  mother,  out  of  charity,  by  Doctor  Lothrop  of  Norwich 
in  Connecticut,  who  was  at  once  a  physician,  surgeon,  apothecary, 
merchant,  and  shopkeeper,  as  is  usual  in  America  ;  after  his  appren 
ticeship  expired,  his  master  gave  him  500Z.  and  letters  of  recommen 
dation  to  his  correspondents  in  London,  by  which  means  he  obtained 
credit  for  some  thousands,  and  returning  to  Connecticut,  settled  at 
New-Haven,  set  up  an  equipage,  with  ten  horses,  a  carriage,  and  a 
number  of  servants,  failed  in  two  years,  and  was  thrown  into  jail,  whero 
he  remained  till  released  by  a  bankrupt  act  passed  the  Assembly.  He 
then  seduced,  and  afterwards  married  the  daughter  of  Mr.  Mansfield . 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA,  167 

purchase  horses  in  Canada,  and  to  go  himself  and  sell  them  at 
Jamaica.  This  speculation  alone  was  sufficient  to  pay  his  debts, 
and  set  him  once  more  afloat."  After  talking  of  trade,  we  got 


High  Sheriff  of  New-Haven,  much  against  the  will  of  the  latter ;  who 
at  length,  became  reconciled  to  him,  and  employed  him  as  a  supercar 
go  to  the  West-Indies,  where  he  usually  went  in  the  spring,  and  re 
turned  in  the  autumn  with  molasses,  rum,  and  sugar.  In  winter,  he 
went  among  the  Dutch  towards  the  head  of  Hudson's  River,  and  into 
Canada,  with  various  sorts  of  woollen  ^oods,  such  as  stockings,  caps, 
mittens,  &c.  &c.  and  also  cheese,  which  sold  to  great  profit  in  Cana 
da.  These  articles  he  either  exchanged  for  horses,  or  purchased  them 
with  the  money  arising  from  his  sales.  With  these  horses,  which  ge 
nerally  made  a  part  of  a  Connecticut  cargo,  together  with  poultry, 
corn,  and  fish,  he  went  to  the  islands,  whilst  his  father-in-law  was  sell 
ing  the  rum,  molasses  and  sugars  of  the  last  voyage,  and  collecting 
woollens  for  Arnold's  next  winter  trip  to  Canada.  It  was  in  these 
voyages  that  Arnold  became  an  expert  seaman,  which  qualified  him 
for  the  command  of  the  fleet  on  the  lakes,  where  he  behaved  with  his 
usual  gallantry  against  a  much  superior  enemy.  The  translator  had 
an  opportunity,  during  his  residence  at  Porto  Rico  during  the  war,  of 
seeing  several  of  these  Connecticut  sloops  make  very  advantageous 
sales  of  their  little  cargoes.  After  disembarking  their  horses,  they 
ran  their  vessels  up  to  the  quay,  and  converted  them  into  retail  shops, 
where  they  dealt  out  their  onions,  potatoes,  salt  fish,  and  apples,  (an 
article  which  brought  a  very  high  price,)  in  the  smallest  quantities,  for 
which  they  received  hard  dollars,  although  it  is  a  fact,  that  specie  was 
uncommonly  scarce  in  this  Spanish  island,  almost  all  the  intercourse 
being  carried  on  in  paper  dollars,  whilst  the  French  part  of  the  neigh 
bouring  island  of  Hispaniola  was  full  of  Spanish  money,  and  the  French 
fleet  and  army  were  paid  in  dollars  from  the  Havana.  The  transla 
tor  hopes  that  he  shall  here  be  pardoned  a  digression  on  the  subject  of 
this  charming  island,  which  in  the  hands  of  any  other  nation  would 
certainly  become  one  of  the  most  valuable  possessions  in  the  Ameri 
can  Archipelago.  Its  central  situation  between  the  windward  and 
leeward  islands,  its  capacious  harbour,  the  number  of  springs  and 
rivers  with  which  it  is  watered,  (the  latter  abounding  with  fish,)  the 
excellence  of  its  soil,  the  greatest  part  of  which  is  nearly  in  a  virgin 
state,  the  strong  position  of  the  peninsula  of  St.  John,  are  advantages, 
which  if  in  the  possession  of  a  great  active  maritime  power,  such  as 
France  or  England,  can  scarcely  be  appreciated.  In  the  possession 
of  Spain,  it  is  at  most  but  a  negative  advantage  ;  for  I  am  well  assured 
that  the  king  only  receives  the  inconsiderable  revenue  of  100,000  pias 
ters,  from  this  island,  whilst  he  expended,  in  the  course  of  the  late  war, 
no  less  than  eight  millions  on  the  fortifications,  which  I  had  the  very 
singular  favour  to  visit,  accompanied  by  the  first  engineer,  and  the 
strength  of  which  is  now  deemed  not  less  formidable  than  those  of  fort 
Moro,  and  the  Havana.  Nor  could  England,  with  her  then  force  in 
the  West-Indies,  have  attacked  this  island  with  any  prospect  of  sue- 


1U8  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

to  agriculture  :  he  told  me,  that  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Rhyn- 
beck,  the  land  was  uncommonly  fruitful,  and  that  for  a  bushel 
of  sown  wheat,  he  reaped  from  thirty  to  forty.  The  corn  is  so 
abundant  that  they  do  not  take  the  trouble  of  cutting  it  with  a 
sickle,  but  mow  it  like  hay.  Some  dogs  of  a  beautiful  kind 
moving  about  the  house,  awakened  my  passion  for  the  chase ; 
on  asking  Mr.  Thomas  what  use  he  made  of  them,  he  told  me, 
that  they  were  only  for  hunting  the  fox ;  that  deer,  stags,  and 
bears,  were  pretty  common  in  the  country,  but  they  seldom 
killed  them  except  in  winter,  either  by  tracing  on  the  snow,  or 
by  tracking  them  in  the  woods.  All  American  conversation 
must  finish  with  politics.  Those  of  Mr.  Thomas  appeared  to 
me  rather  equivocal ;  he  was  too  rich,  and  complained  too  much 
of  the  flour  he  furnished  for  the  army  to  let  me  think  him  a 
good  whig.  He  gave  himself  out  for  such  notwithstanding,  but 
I  observed  that  he  was  greatly  attached  to  an  opinion  which  I 
found  generally  diffused  throughout  the  state  of  Neiv-York;  that 
there  is  no  expedition  more  useful,  nor  more  easy  than  the  conquest 
of  Canada.  It  is  impossible  to  conceive  the  ardour  the  inhabitants 
of  the  north  still  have  to  recommence  that  enterprise.  The  reason 
is,  that  their  country  is  so  fertile,  and  so  happily  situated  for 
commerce,  that  they  are  sure  to  become  very  wealthy  as  soon 
as  they  have  nothing  to  fear  from  the  savages  ;  now  the  savages 

cess,  though  many  persons  in  Jamaica  were  sanguine  for  such  an  ex 
pedition.  Besides  an  immense  train  of  very  fine  artillery,  three  of  the 
best  regiments  in  the  Spanish  service  were  there  in  garrison,  in  full 
health,  viz. :  the  regiments  de  Bruxelles,  de  la  Couronne,  and  de  la 
Victoire,  and  a  most  numerous  militia.  Indeed,  so  secure  did  they 
think  themselves,  that  they  embarked,  when  I  was  there,  the  regiment 
de  la  Couronne,  consisting  of  1200  men  for  Carthagena.  The  inte 
rior  of  the  country,  which  I  was  likewise  allowed  to  visit,  is  delightful ; 
land  may  be  had  for  nothing,  but  every  settler  must  not  only  be  a  Ca 
tholic,  but  a  rigid  one,  the  Inquisition  having  an  officer  here  ;  he  must 
likewise  marry,  and  wretched  is  his  choice,  within  a  year,  nor  is  he 
ever  allowed  to  remove  any  property  from  the  island,  should  he  wish 
to  quit  it,  except  what  he  can  carry  off  clandestinely.  Several  Irish 
are  settled  here,  but  all  under  the  predicament  of  sacrificing  to  the 
most  gloomy  superstition,  the  most  arbitrary  jealousy  of  despotic  pow 
er,  and  to  the  most  horrid  state  of  nuptial  slavery,  with  the  ugliest  and 
filthiest  of  women.  The  officers  of  the  Dragon  man-of-war  of  60 
guns,  and  of  the  frigates  which  were  lying  there,  and  the  military  in 
garrison  were  anxious  to  peruse  the  European  and  American  Gazettes 
I  had  with  me,  but  even  this  communication  was  obliged  to  be  con 
fined  to  very  few,  and  under  the  strictest  injunctions  of  secrecy,  for 
our  mutual  safety.  In  other  respects  it  is  impossible  to  have  met  with 
a  more  hospitable  reception. — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  169 

are  only  formidable  when  they  are  supported  and  animated  by 
the  English. 

I  left  Thomas'  inn  the  23d,  at  8  in  the  morning,  and  travel 
led  three  hours  always  in  Livington's  Manor.     The  road  was 
good,  and  the  country  rich  and  well  cultivated.     We  pass 
several  considerable  villages,  the  houses  of  which  are  hand 
some  and  neat,  and  every  object  here  announces  prosperity. 
On  leaving  this  district,  we  enter  that  of  Claverack,  then  de 
scend  from  the  hills,  and  approach  Hudson's  River.     We  soon 
after  come  to  a  creek,  which  is  also  called  by  the  name  of 
Claverack,  and  which  falls  not  far  from  this  into  the  Hudson. 
As  soon  as  you  have  passed  this  creek,  an  immense  rock, 
which  runs,  across  in  the  direction  of  the  road,  obliges  you  to 
turn  to  the  right  to  reach  Claverack  meeting-house,  and  to 
pursue  the  road  to  Albany.    This  rock,  or  rather  chain  of  rocks, 
merits  all  the  attention  of  naturalists.    It  is  about  three  miles  in 
length.     As  I  did  not  traverse  it,  I  am  ignorant  of  its  width, 
but  it  is  so  steep  to  the  south,  that  it  can  be  ascribed  to  nothing 
but  a  shrinking  of  the  earth,  occasioned  by  a  violent  shock. 
Yet  one  does  not  find,  either  in  the  space  between  this  rock 
and  the  little  river,  or  on  the  opposite  bank,  any  correspond 
ence  with  the  accidental  separation  it  announces.     Its  flank, 
which  is  almost  exposed,  presents  parallel  beds,  but  rarely 
horizontal,  which  made  me  conjecture  that  it  was  of  a  calcare 
ous  nature  ;*  I  tried  it  with  aquafortis,  and  found  my  conject 
ure  just.     But  I  was  the  most  struck  with  the  strength  and 
beauty  of  the  trees  which  grow  in  the  midst  of  it,  the  trunks 
of  which  rise  out  of  the  chinks  formed  by  the  separation  of 
the  rock.     Unless  you  closely  examine  these  trees,  it  is  impos 
sible  to  believe  that  they  can  grow,  and  get  to  such  a  height 
without  an  inch  of  earth  to  nourish  their  roots.     Several  of 
them  grow  horizontally,  to  a  certain  distance,  and  then  assume 
a  vertical  direction.     Others  have   their  roots  quite   naked, 
which  proves  that  their  origin  is  prior  to  the  catastrophe, 
whatever  it  was,  which  one  cannot  refuse  admitting.     These 
roots  are  in  the  most  whimsical  directions  imaginable,  resem- 


*  The  Marquis  having,  in  his  account  of  Totaliaw  Falls,  observed 
that  there  is  little  or  no  calcareous  stone  in  this  country,  by  which  I 
am  at  a  loss  to  know  whether  he  means  the  state  of  New-Jersey, 
where  he  then  was,  or  the  United  States  in  general ;  I  take  this 
opportunity  of  mentioning,  that  limestone  abounds  in  a  great  part  of 
the  Continent ;  the  interior  parts  of  Pennsylvania,  Maryland,  and  Vir 
ginia  in  particular  are  intersected  by  immense  strata  of  this  invaluable 
stone,  which  lie  every  where  exposed  to  the  day,  or  very  near  the 
surface. 

22 


170  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

bling  serpents  crawling  amidst  the  ruins  of  an  immense  edifice. 
The  principal  part  of  the  trees  I  speak  of,  are  of  that  sort  of 
fir  called  hemlock  by  the  English,  but  they  are  mixed  with 
others,  which  I  took  to  be  walnut-trees,  and  other  white  wood ;, 
but  I  must  observe  that  this  conjecture  cannot  be  relied  on,  as 
I  did  not  see  the  leaves,  and  am  not  well  enough  acquainted 
with  trees  to  distinguish  by  their  branches  and  their  structure.* 
Claverack  is  a  pretty  considerable  township,  and  extends 
very  far.  On  quitting  it  you  traverse  several  woods  to  arise  at 
the  first  houses  of  Kinderhook.  I  found  in  these  woods  new 
improvements,  and  several  log-huts.  But  on  approaching  one 
of  them,  I  perceived,  with  regret,  that  the  family  who  inhabited 
it  had  been  long  settled  there,  without  thinking  of  building  a 
better  house,  an  uncommon  circumstance  in  America,  and 
which  is  almost  unexampled,  except  in  the  Dutch  settlements; 
for  that  people  are  more  economical  than  industrious,  and  are 
more  desirous  of  amassing  wealth  than  of  adding  to  their  com 
fort.  When  you  arrive  at  the  first  hamlet  of  Kinderhook,  you 
must  make  a  long  circuit  to  reach  the  meeting-house,  which  is 
in  the  centre  of  what  may  be  properly  called  the  town  of  Kin 
derhook.  There  you  pass  a  pretty  considerable  stream,  and 
have  the  choice  of  three  or  four  inns ;  but  the  best  is  that  of 
Mr.  Van  Burragh.  The  preference  given  to  this,  however, 
does  no  honour  to  the  others  ;  it  is  a  very  small  house,  kept  by 
two  young  people  of  a  Dutch  family  ;  they  are  civil  and  atten 
tive,  and  you  are  not  badly  off  with  them,  provided  you  are  not 
difficult  to  please.  It  would  have  ill  become  me  now  to  have 
been  so,  for  I  had  nothing  but  snow,  hail,  and  frost  during  the 
whole  day,  and  .any  fireside  was  an  agreeable  asylum  for  me. 


*  With  great  submission  to  the  author,  he  appears  to  have  laid  a 
greater  stress  on  this  phenomenon  than  it  has  any  claim  to  from  its 
singularity ;  every  mountainous  country  in  Europe  abounds  with  such 
appearances,  which,  though  curious,  may  possibly  be  accounted  for  on 
principles  more  simple,  arid  less  systematical,  than  those  great  convul 
sions  so  enthusiastically  imagined  by  the  disciples  of  the  buffonic 
school.  The  translator  too  owns  himself  ignorant  of  the  species  of 
/r,  called  hemlock  by  the  English, —  Tram. 


CHAPTER  X. 

ALBANY  -  SARATOGA  —  -SCHENECTADY  -  BREAM5S  HEIGHTS* 

IT  was  a  difficult  question  to  know  where  I  should  the  next 
day  pass  the  North  river,  for  I  was  told  that  it  was 

*       * 


broken  to  cross  it  on  the  ice*  ho£*  free  enough  from 
flakes  to  venture  it  in  a  boat.  Apprized  of  these  obstacles,  I 
set  out  early  on  the  24th,  that  I  might  have,  time  to  discover 
the  easiest  passage.  I  was  only  twenty  miles  from  Albany  ; 
so  that  after  a  continued  journey  through  a  forest  of  fir  trees, 
I  arrived  at  one  o'clock  on  the  banks  of  the  Hudson.  The  vale 
in  which  this  river  runs,  and  the  town  of  Albany,  which  is 
built  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre  on  its  western  bank,  must 
have  afforded  a  very  agreeable  coup  d'oeil,  had  it  not  been 
disfigured  by  the  snow.  A  handsome  house  half  way  up  the 
bank  opposite  the  ferry,  seems  to  attract  attention,  and  to  in 
vite  strangers  to  stop  at  General  Schuyler's,  who  is  the  pro 
prietor  as  well  as  architect.  I  had  recommendations  to  him 
from  all  quarters,  but  particularly  from  General  Washington 
and  Mrs.  Carter.  I  had  besides  given  the  rendezvous  to  Co 
lonel  Hamilton,  who  had  just  married  another  of  his  daugh 
ters,*  and  was  preceded  by  the  Vicomte  de  Noailles,  and  the 

*  Colonel  Hamilton  is  so  well  known  by  all  those  who  have  had  any 
connexion  with  America,  that  it  would  be  unnecessary  to  point  him 
out  more  particularly,  were  not  this  journal,  at  length  destined  for 
publication,  likely  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  several  readers  who  were 
ignorant  of,  or  have  forgotten,  many  details  relative  to  this  revolution,. 
to  which  their  attention  may  still  be  awakened.  Colonel  Hamilton,  a 
native  of  Sainte  Croix,  and  some  time  settled  in  America,  was  desti 
ned  to  the  profession  of  the  law,  and  had  scarcely  completed  his  stu 
dies,  when  General  Washington,  versed  as  all  great  men  are  in  the 
discovery  of  talents,  and  in  the  employment  of  them,  made  him  at  once 
his  aid-de-camp  and  secretary,  a  post  as  eminent  as  important  in  the 
American  army.  From  that  time  his  correspondence  with  the  French, 
which  language  he  speaks  and  writes  perfectly  well,  the  details  of 
every  kind,  political  and  military,  entrusted  to  him,  developed  those 
talents,  the  general  had  known  how  to  discover,  and  put  in  activity  ; 
whilst  the  young  soldier,  by  a  prudence  and  secrecy  still  more  beyond 
Iris  age  than  his  information,  justified  the  confidence  with  which  hr 


172  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

Comte  de  Damas,  who  I  knew  were  arrived  the  night  before. 
The  sole  difficulty  therefore  consisted  in  passing  the  river. 
Whilst  the  boat  was  making  its  way  with  difficulty  through 
the  flakes  of  ice,  which  we  were  obliged  to  break  as  we  ad 
vanced.     Mr.  Lynch,  who  is  not  indifferent  about  a  good  din 
ner,  contemplating  General  Schuyler's  house,  mournfully  says 
to  me,  "  I  am  sure  the  Vicomte  and  Damas  are  now  at  table, 
where  they  have  good  cheer,  and  good  company,  whilst  we  are 
here  kicking  our  heels,  in  hopes  of  getting  this  evening  to 
some  wretched  alehouse."     I  partook  a  little  of  his  anxiety, 
but  diverted  myself  by  assuring  him  that  they  saw  us  from  the 
windows,  that  I  even  distinguished  the  Vicomte  de  Noailles 
who  was  looking  at  us  through  a  telescope,  and  that  he  was 
going  to  send  somebody  to  conduct  us  on  our  landing  to  that 
excellent  house,  where  we  should  find  dinner  ready  to  come  on 
table;  I  even  pretended  that  a  sledge  I  had  seen  descending 
towards  the  river  was  designed  for  us.     As  chance  would  have 
it,  never  was  conjecture  more  just.     The  first  person  we  saw 
on  shore,  was  the  Chevalier  de  Mauduit,  who  was  waiting  for 
us  with  the  general's  sledge,  into  which  we  quickly  stepped 
and  were  conveyed  in  an  instant  into  a  handsome  saloon,  near 
a  good  fire,  with  Mr.  Schuyler,  his  wife  and  daughters.  Whilst 
we  were  warming  ourselves,  dinner  was  served,  to  which  every 
one  did  honour,  as  well  as  to  the  Madeira  which  was  excellent, 

was  honoured.  He  continued  to  serve  in  this  capacity  till  the  year 
1781,  when  desirous  of  distinguishing  himself  in  the  command  of 
troops,  as  he  had  done  in  all  his  other  functions,  he  took  that  of  a 
battalion  of  light  infantry.  It  was  at  the  head  of  this  battalion,  that 
jointly  with  M.  de  Gimat,  he  carried  by  assault  one  of  the  enemy's  re 
doubts  at  the  siege  of  Yorktown.  The  reader  will  perhaps  be  surpri 
sed  to  hear,  that  the  next  year,  before  the  peace  was  made,  Mr.  Ha 
milton  turned  advocate,  and  became  a  member  of  Congress.  The 
explanation  of  this  enigma  is,  that  the  war  being  considered  as  at  an 
end,  it  was  necessary  for  him  to  think  of  his  fortune,  which  was  very 
inconsiderable.  Now  the  profession  of  a  lawyer,  which  comprehends 
those  of  attorney  and  notary,  is  not  only  the  most  respectable  in  Ame 
rica,  but  likewise  the  most  lucrative;  and  there  is  no  doubt  that,  with 
such  talents  and  such  knowledge,  Mr.  Hamilton  must  be  in  peace,  as 
well  as  in  war,  one  of  the  most  considerable  citizens  in  his  new  coun 
try.  At  present  he  is  settled  at  New- York.  [To  this  just  eulogium, 
the  translator  takes  the  liberty  of  adding,  that  Colonel  Hamilton  is  a 
most  elegant  writer,  and  a  perfectly  accomplished  gentleman,  and  as 
such  could  not  fail  of  distinguishing  himself  in  the  first  European  cir 
cles.  His  account  of  the  behaviour  and  death  of  the  unfortunate 
Andre,  to  which  he  was  a  witness,  published  at  the  time  in  the  Ameri 
can  and  English  prints,  does  equal  honour  to  his  understanding  and 
his  heart. — Trans.] 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  m 

and  made  us  completely  forget  the  rigour  of  the  season,  and 
the  fatigue  of  the  journey. 

General  Schuyler's  family  was  composed  of  Mrs.  Hamilton, 
his  second  daughter,  who  has  a  mild  agreeable  countenance  ; 
of  Miss  Peggy  Schuyler,  whose  features  ^ire  animated  and 
striking  ;  of  another  charming  girl,  only  eight  years  old,  and 
of  three  boys,  the  eldest  of  whom  is  fifteen,  and  are  the  hand 
somest  children  you  can  see.     He  is  himself  about  fifty,  but 
already  gouty  and  infirm.     His  fortune  is  very  considerable, 
and  it  will  become  still  more  so,  for  he  possesses  an  immense  ex 
tent  of  territory,  but  derives  more  credit  from  his  talents  and 
information,  than  from  his  wealth.     He  served  with  General 
Amherst  in  the  Canadian  war,  as  deputy  Quarter-Master-Ge 
neral.     From  that  period  he  made  himself  known,  and  became 
distinguished;  he  was  very  useful  to  the  English,  and  was  sent 
for  to  London  after  the  peace,  to  settle  the  accounts  of  every 
thing  furnished  by  the  Americans.     His  marriage  with  Miss 
Rensselaer,  the  rich  heiress  of  a  family  which  has  given  its  name 
to  a  district,  or  rather  a  whole  province,  still  added  to  his 
credit  and  his  influence ;  so  that  it  was  not  surprising  he  should 
be  raised  to  the  rank  of  Major-General  at  the  beginning  of  the 
war,  and  have .  the  command  of  the  troops  on  the  frontiers  of 
Canada.     It  was  in  this  capacity,  that  he  was  commissioned  in 
1777  to  oppose  the  progress  of  General  Burgoyne ;  but  having 
received  orders  from  Congress,  directly  contrary  to  his  opinion, 
without  being  provided  with  any  means  necessary  for  carry 
ing  them  into  execution,  he  found  himself  obliged  to  evacuate 
Ticonderoga,  and  fall  back  on  the  Hudson.     These  measures, 
undoubtedly  prudent  in  themselves,  being  unfavourably  con 
strued  in  a  moment  of  ill  humour  and  anxiety,  he  was  tried  by 
a  court  martial,  as  well  as  General  St.  Clair,  his  second  in  com 
mand,  and  both  of  them  were  soon  after  honourably  acquitted. 
St.  Clair  resumed  his  station  in  the  army,  but  General  Schuy 
ler,  justly  offended,  demanded  more  satisfactory  reparation, 
and  reclaimed  his  rank  which,  since  this  event,  was  contested 
with  him  by  two  or  three  generals  of  the  same  standing.  This 
affair  not  being  settled,  he  did  not  rejoin  the  army,  but  conti 
nued  his  services  to  his  country.     Elected  a  member  of  Con 
gress  the  year  following,  he  was  nearly  chosen  president  in  op 
position  to  Mr.  Laurens ;  since  that  time  he  has  always  enjoyed 
the  confidence  of  the  government,  and  of  General  Washington, 
who  are  at  present  paying  their  court  to  him,  and  pressing  him 
to  accept  the  office  of  secretary  at  war. 

Whilst  we  were  in  this  excellent  asylum,  the  weather  con 
tinued  doubtful,  between  frost  and  thaw ;  there  was  a  little 
snow  upon  the  ground,  and  it  was  probable  there  soon  would 
be  a  fall.  The  council  of  travellers  assembled,  and  it  ap- 


174  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

peared  to  them  proper  not  to  delay  their  departure  for  Sara 
toga.  General  Schuyler  offered  us  a  house  which  he  has  upon 
his  own  estate ;  but  he  could  not  serve  us  as  guide,  on  account 
of  an  indisposition,  and  his  apprehension  of  a  fit  of  the  gout. 
He  proposed  giving  us  an  intelligent  officer  to  conduct  us  to 
the  different  fields  of  battle,  whilst  his  son  should  go  before  to 
prepare  us  lodgings.  We  could  still  travel  on  horseback,  and 
were  supplied  with  horses  of  the  country  to  replace  ours  which 
were  fatigued,  and  a  part  of  which  still  remained  on  the  other 
side  of  the  river.  All  these  arrangements  being  accepted,  we 
were  conveyed  to  Albany  in  a  sledge.  On  our  arrival,  we 
waited  on  Brigadier-General  Clinton,  to  whom  I  delivered  my 
letters  of  recommendation.  He  is  an  honest  man,  but  of  no 
distinguished  talents,  and  is  only  employed  out  of  respect  to 
his  brother  the  governor.  He  immediately  ordered  the  horses 
for  our  journey,  and  Major  Popham,  his  aid-de-camp,  an  amia 
ble  and  intelligent  officer,  was  desired  to  conduct  us.  He  was 
to  take  with  him  Major  Graeme,  who  knows  properly  the 
ground,  and  served  in  the  army  under  General  Gates. 

All  our  measures  being  well  concerted,  we  each  of  us  retired 
to  our  quarters ;  the  Vicomte  de  Noailles  and  his  two  compa 
nions  to  an  inn,  kept  by  a  Frenchman,  called  Louis,  and  I  to 
that  of  an  American  of  the  name  of  Blennissens.  At  day 
break,  tea  was  ready,  and  the  whole  caravan  assembled  at  my 
quarters ;  but  melted  snow  was  falling,  which  did  not  promise 
an  agreeable  ride.  We  were  in  hopes  that  it  was  a  real  thaw, 
and  set  out  upon  our  journey.  The  snow  however  fell  thicker 
and  thicker,  and  was  six  inches  deep  when  we  arrived  at  the 
junction  of  the  Mohawk  with  the  Hudson  river.  Here  is  a 
choice  of  two  roads  to  Saratoga :  one  obliges  you  to  pass  the 
Hudson,  to  keep  some  time  along  the  left  bank,  and  pass  it  a 
second  time  near  the  Half-Moon  ;  the  other  goes  on  the  Mo 
hawk  river  till  you  get  above  the  cataract,  when  you  pass  that 
river,  and  traverse  the  woods  to  Stillwater.  Even  had  there 
been  no  difficulty  in  passing  the  North  river  on  account  of  the 
ice,  I  should  have  preferred  the  other  road,  to  see  the  cascade 
of  Cokes,  which  is  one  of  the  wonders  of  America.  Before 
we  left  the  Hudson,  I  remarked  an  island  in  the  middle  of  its 
bed,  which  offers  a  very  advantageous  position  for  erecting 
batteries,  to  defend  the  navigation.  The  two  majors,  to  whom 
I  communicated  this  observation,  told  me  that  this  point  of  de 
fence  was  neglected,  because  there  wras  a  better  one,  a  little 
higher  up,  at  the  extremity  of  one  of  the  three  branches  into 
which  the  Mohawk  river  divides  itself,  in  falling  into  the  Hud 
son.  They  added  that  this  position  was  very  slightly  recon 
noitred  ;  that  which  was  begun  to  be  fortified  higher  up,  being 
sufficient  to  stop  the  progress  of  the  enemy.  Thus  the  more 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  175 

you  examine  the  country,  the  more  you  are  convinced  that  the 
expedition  of  Burgoyne  was  extravagant,  and  must  sooner  or 
later  have  miscarried,  independent  of  the  engagements  which 
decided  the  event. 

The  junction  of  the  two  rivers  is  six  miles  north  of  Albany, 
and  after  travelling  two  more  in  the  woods,  we  began  to  hear 
a  murmuring  noise,  which  increased  till  we  came  in  sight  of 
Cohoes  Fall.  This  cataract  is  the  whole  breadth  of  the  river, 
that  is  to  say,  near  two  hundred  toises,  about  1200  English 
feet  wide.  It  is  a  vast  sheet  of  water,  which  falls  76  English 
feet.*  The  river  in  this  place  is  contracted  between  two  steep 
banks  formed  by  the  declivity  of  the  mountains ;  these  preci 
pices  are  covered  by  an  earth  as  black  as  iron  ore,  and  on 
which  nothing  grows  but  firs  and  cypresses.  The  course  of 
the  river  is  straight,  both  before  and  after  its  fall,  and  the 
rocks  forming  this  cascade  are  nearly  on  a  level,  but  their 
irregular  figure  breaks  the  water  whilst  it  is  falling,  and  forms 
a  variety  of  whimsical  and  picturesque  appearances.  This 
picture  was  rendered  still  more  terrible  by  the  snow  which 
covered  the  firs,  the  brilliancy  of  which  gave  a  black  colour  to 
the  water,  gliding  gently  along,  and  a  yellow  tinge  to  that 
which  was  dashing  over  the  cataract. 

After  feasting  our  eyes  with  this  awful  spectacle,  we  tra 
velled  a  mile  higher  up  to  the  ferry  where  we  hoped  to  pass 
the  river ;  but  on  our  arrival,  found  the  boat  so  entangled  in  the 
ice  and  snow,  that  it  was  impossible  to  make  use  of  it.  We 
were  assured,  that  people  had  passed  a  ferry  two  miles  higher, 
that  morning,  whither  we  immediately  went,  determined  to 
pursue  our  route,  though  the  snow  was  greatly  increased,  and 
we  were  benumbed  with  wet  and  cold.  The  boatmen  of  this 
ferry  made  many  objections  on  account  of  the  bad  weather 
and  the  smallness  of  their  boat,  which  could  only  transport 
three  horses  at  a  time  ;  but  this  difficulty  did  not  stop  us,  and 
we  agreed  to  make  several  trips.  The  first  attempt  was  made 
to  pass  over  my  valet  de  chambre,  with  three  horses :  I  was 
waiting  by  the  fireside  for  my  turn,  when  they  came  to  inform 
me  that  the  boat  was  coming  back  to  shore,  with  some  difficul 
ty,  and  that  the  current  had  almost  driven  it  towards  the  cata 
ract.  We  were  obliged  therefore  to  submit  to  our  destiny, 

*  Madame  la  Comtesse  de  Genlisin  speaking  of  this  cataract  in  one 
of  the  notes  to  her  Veilles  du  Chateau,  says  it  is  only  50  feet,  but 
from  other  accounts  confirming  this  of  M.  de  Chastellux,  I  am  in 
clined  to  think,  that  is  between  70  and  80  feet.  This  invaluable  and 
correct  writer,  the  pride  of  her  son,  and  of  humanity,  has  in  this  in 
stance  been  unavoidably  misled  by  the  American  travellers  she  con 
sulted. — Trans. 


176  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

which  was  not  yet  disposed  to  let  us  fulfil  the  object  of  our 
voyage.  On  this  occasion  I  displayed  a  magnanimity  which 
placed  me  high  in  the  esteem  of  the  whole  company :  whilst 
others  were  storming,  and  growing  impatient,  uncertain  of  the 
measures  to  be  taken,  I  serenely  gave  the  signal  for  a  retreat, 
and  thought  no  more  of  any  thing  but  supper,  for  which  I 
made  the  most  prudent  dispositions  on  the  spot.  The  inn 
keeper  of  M.  de  Noailles  being  a  Frenchman,  and  consequently 
a  better  cook,  or  at  least  more  active  than  mine,  it  was  decided 
that  he  should  provide  our  supper :  the  best  mounted  cavalier 
of  the  troop  was  despatched  to  give  the  necessary  orders, 
whom  we  followed  in  half  an  hour ;  we  arrived  as  night  was 
coming  on,  and  presently  sat  down  to  table.  Thus  passed  the 
day's  work  of  the  25th,  which  was  not  very  agreeable  till  the 
hour  of  supper,  but  terminated  very  happily  ;  for  what  conso 
lation  does  not  one  dewve  under  disappointment,  from  a  good 
fire,  a  good  supper,  and  good  company  ? 

The  26th,  the  rivers  not  being  yet  frozen,  nor  the  roads 
hard  enough  to  make  a  long  journey  in  a  sledge,  I.  determined 
to  remain  at  Albany.  My  morning  was  employed  in  adjusting 
my  notes,  which  occupation  was  only  interrupted  by  a  visit 
from  Colonel  Hamilton.  He  told  us  that  Mrs.  Schuyler  was  a 
little  indisposed,  but  that  the  General  would  be  equally  glad 
to  receive  us.  Accordingly  he  sent  us  his  sledges  the  begin 
ning  of  the  evening.  We  found  him  in  his  saloon  with  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Hamilton.  A  conversation  soon  took  place  between 
the  General,  the  Vicomte  de  Noailles  and  me.  We  had 
already  talked,  when  we  were  last  with  him,  of  some  important 
faults  relative  to  the  northern  campaigns,  of  which  we  had  ask 
ed  some  explanations.  Mr.  Schuyler  appeared  no  less  desirous 
of  giving  them.  He  is  pretty  communicative,  and  is  well 
entitled  to  be  so  ;  his  conversation  is  easy  and»agreeable  ;  he 
knows  well  what  he  says,  and  expresses  himself  well  on  every 
thing  he  knows.  To  give  the  best  answer  to  our  questions,  he 
proposed  to  us  to  read  his  political  and  military  correspond 
ence  with  General  Washington,  which  we  accepted  with  great 
pleasure,  and  leaving  the  rest  of  the  company  with  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Hamilton,  we  retired  into  another  room.  The  General 
opening  his  pocket-book,  the  Vicomte  and  I  divided  the  differ 
ent  manuscripts,  containing  upwards  of  sixty  pages  of  close 
writing  on  paper  a  la  Telliere.  The  first  despatch  I  read  was 
a  letter  written  by  him  to  General  Washington,  in  November 
1777  :  it  contained  a.  plan  of  attack  on  Canada,  which  origin 
ated  in  the  following  circumstance  :  Two  English  officers  after 
being  made  prisoners  with  Burgoyne's  army,  obtained  permis 
sion  to  return  to  Canada  on  their  parole,  and  on  the  road  stop 
ped  at  General  Schuyler's  at  Saratoga.  The  conversation,  as 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  177 

we  may  easily  suppose,  soon  turned  on  the  great  event,  the 
impression  of  which  was  so  recent.  One  of  these  officers 
being  attached  to  General  Burgoyne,  criminated  Governor  Sir 
Guy  Carleton,  whom  he  accused  of  having  retained  too  many 
troops  in  Canada ;  the  states  maintained  that  he  had  not  even 
reserved  sufficient  for  the  defence  of  the  country.  From 
assertions  they  came  to  proofs,  which  proofs  could  only  be  an 
exact  detail  of  all  the  forces  then  remaining  in  Canada,  and 
their  distribution.  General  Schuyler  was  attentive,  and  took 
advantage  of  the  dispute.  He  learns  by  this  means,  that  Cana 
da  was  in  real  danger ;  and  proposed,  in  consequence,  to  Ge 
neral  Washington  to  retake  Ticonderoga,  in  case  that  post  was 
not  abandoned,  as  it  actually  has  been,  and  to  proceed  from 
thence  to  Montreal.  This  plan  is  extremely  well  conceived, 
and  exhibits  a  great  knowledge  of  the  country ;  and  what 
struck  me  as  the  most  worthy  of  attention,  is  the  immensity  of 
the  resources  to  be  found  in  this  country  for  a  winter  expedi 
tion,  and  the  extreme  facility  with  which' an  army  may  rapidly- 
advance,  by  means  of  sledges  to  transport  the  provisions  and 
stores,  and  even  sick. and  lame  soldiers.  It  is  possible,  in  a 
months  time,  to  collect,  between  the  Connecticut  and  Hud 
son  river,  fifteen  hundred  sledges,  two  thousand  horses  and 
as  many  oxen;  the  latter  may  be  shod  for  the  ice,  like  horses, 
and  serve  to  draw  the  sledges  with  provisions ;  and  as  these  are 
consumed,  or  the  oxen  fatigued,  they  may  be  slain  for  the  food 
of  the  army.  Nor  must  it  be  imagined  that  these  expeditions 
are  so  dreadful  for  the  soldiers  as  we  are  accustomed  to  sup 
pose  them.  With  the  feet  and  legs  well  fortified,  and  proper 
clothing,  which  it  was  easy  to  procure  before  the  finances  and 
resources  of  the  country  were  exhausted,  they  support  ex 
tremely  well  the  fatigue  of  long  marches ;  and  as  they  pass  all 
the  night  in  the  woods,  they  easily  find  shelter,  and  light  great 
fires,  by  which  they  sleep  better  than  under  tents ;  for  it  is  to 
be  observed,  that  if  the  cold  be  severe  in  this  country,  it  is 
always  a  dry  cold,  against  which  it  is  much  more  easy  to  pro 
vide  than  against  rain  and  moisture. 

General  Schuyler  never  received  way  answer  to  this  letter, 
nor  does  he  know  with  whom  the  fault  lies.  M.  de  la  Fayette 
however  came  to  Albany  in  January  to  prepare  and  command 
an  expedition  similar  to  that  he  had  projected  :  he  showed  his 
instructions  to  General  Schuyler,  who  discovered  it  to  be  his 
own  plan,  of  which  he  supposes  some  other  person  wished  to 
claim  the  honour,  but  as  no  orders  had  come  to  him,  he  had 
made  no  preparations,  nor  were  there  any  made  on  the  side  of 
Connecticut;  so  that  M.  de  la  Fayette,  how  agreeable  soever 
this  expedition  might  bo  to  him,  had  so  much  good  sense  arid 

23 


178  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

attachment  to  the  interest  of  America  as  to  admit  the  difficul 
ties,  and  divert  Congress  from  pursuing  it. 

The  winter  following,  after  the  evacuation  of  Philadelphia, 
and  the  affair  of  Monmouth,  General  Washington,  always  more 
occupied  in  putting  an  end  to  the  misfortunes  of  his  country, 
than  in  prolonging  the  duration  of  the  brilliant  part  he  was 
acting  in  America,  wrote  to  Mr.  Schuyler,  to  consult  him  on  an 
expedition  to  Canada,  and  on  the  means  of  executing  it  with 
success.  In  answer  to  this  letter,  he  sent  a  memoir  perfectly 
well  conceived,  and  no  less  well  written,  in  which  he  proposed 
three  different  plans.  The  first  was  to  collect  his  forces  near 
the  sources  of  the  Connecticut,  at  a  place  called  Coos ;  from 
thence  there  is  only  a  trifling  carrying  place  to  the  rivers  which 
fall  into  the  St.  Lawrence,  below  Lake  Saint  Pierre,  near  to 
Quebec.  But  this  plan  would  be  difficult  of  execution,  from 
the  scarcity  of  resources  on  the  Connecticut  river,  and  from 
the  great  difficulties  to  be  encountered  in  approaching  those 
to  be  provided  on  the  Hudson  and  Mohawk  rivers,  besides  that 
the  attack  would  thus  be  carried  into  the  heart  of  the  English 
forces,  and  too  near  the  sea,  from  whence  they  derive  their 
principal  aid.  The  second  project  was  to  remount  the  Mo 
hawk  river,  then  to  embark  on  Lake  Oneida,  and  crossing  Lake 
Ontario,  proceed  westward  to  besiege  Niagara;  then  returning 
by  the  same  route,  to  descend  the  river,  and  attack  Montreal 
by  the  north.  In  this  plan,  General  Schuyler  foresaw  two 
great  inconveniences ;  one,  from  the  long  circuit  it  would  be 
necessary  to  make,  thus  giving  the  English  time  to  collect 
their  troops  at  the  point  of  attack ;  the  other  from  the  impos 
sibility  there  was  of  deceiving  the  enemy  by  threatening  them 
on  the  side  of  Lake  Champlain,  and  Sorel,  since  the  prepara 
tions  on  the  Mohawk  and  Hudson  River  could  not  fail  of  dis 
closing  the  whole  system  of  the  campaign.  It  was  by  Lake 
Champlain  therefore,  and  in  the  winter,  that  General  Schuyler 
proposed  marching  directly  to  Montreal ;  leaving  St.  John's 
on  the  right,  and  postponing  the  attack  of  that  post  until  spring, 
which  was  njot  to  be  secured,  before  the  Isle  of  Montreal,  and 
all  the  upper  country  should  be  got  possession  of:  on  this  plan 
there  would  be  no  difficulty  in  concealing  its  real  object ;  as 
the  necessary  preparations  might  be  collected  on  the  rivers 
Hudson  and  Connecticut ;  the  shifting  from  one  to  the  other 
being  an  easy  measure.  Thus  the  enemy  would  be  alarmed  at 
once  for  Quebec,  St.  Johns,  and  Montreal.  On  this  supposi 
tion,  it  is  probable  they  would  prefer  sacrificing  Montreal. 
There  an  advantageous  establishment  might  be  formed,  and 
measures  taken  to  attack  Quebec ;  but  in  case  of  their  being 
obliged  to  abandon  it,  an  easy  retreat  would  always  be  secured 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  J70 

by  the  Beaver  hunting  place,*  and  Lake  Champlain.  Such  was 
the  object  of  this  long  despatch  which  I  read  with  great  atten 
tion  and  much  pleasure,  and  of  which  I  have  attempted  to  give 
some  idea,  convinced  as  I  am  that  this  article  of  my  journal 
will  not  be  uninteresting  to  military  men  ;  others  may  render 
it  amusing,  by  surveying  the  chart,  and  running  over  the  im 
mense  country  embraced  by  these  different  projects. 

The  next  memoir  which  fell  into  my  hands  was  the  answer 
of  General  Washington.  After  testifying  the  greatest  confi 
dence  in  General  Schuyler,  he  enters  into  discussion  with  him, 
and  offers  his  reflections  with  a  modesty  as  amiable,  as  worthy 
of  estimation.  He  is  of  opinion  that  the  expedition  by  Lake 
Ontario  is  perhaps  too  highly  rejected  without  sufficient  rea 
son  ;  that  it  would  be  easy  for  him  to  favour  the  attack  of  Ni 
agara,  by  a  diversion  he  could  make  on  Lake  Erie,  by  marching 
the  Virginia  troops  on  the  side  of  the  Ohio  and  Fort  Pitt :  he 
inquires  whether  it  be  possible  to  build  boats  on  Hudson's  river, 
and  transport  them  on  carriages  to  the  Mohawk ;  his  object  in 
this  was  evidently  to  obviate  one  of  the  principal  objections  I 
have  mentioned  ;•  that  the  preparations  for  this  expedition  re 
vealed  too  much  the  real  object.  All  the  other  points  are 
treated  with  wisdom  and  precision  ;  which  renders  the  reply  of 
General  Schuyler  still  more  curious  and  interesting.  It  is 
worthy  both  of  the  importance  of  the  subject,  and  of  the  great 
man  to  whom  it  is  addressed.  Mr.  Schuyler  persists  in  his 
opinion  ;  and  invariably  attached  to  his  project  of  attack  by 
Lake  Champlain,  he  proves  that  it  may  be  executed  in  summer 
as  well  as  in  winter.  Every  thing  depends,  according  to  him, 
on  possessing  a  naval  superiority,!  which  he  is  of  opinion  may 

*  This  is  the  name  given  in  the  English  charts  to  the  deserts  be 
tween  Lake  Ontario,  the  River  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  Lakes  George 
and  Champlain,  and  the  River  of  Soree. 

|  From  these  accounts  it  appears  very  evident  that  General  Carleton 
acted  with  great  prudence  in  retaining  the  force  he  did  in  Canada,  for 
which  he  has  been  blamed  by  some,  when  Burgoyne  went  on  his  expe 
dition  ;  in  the  catastrophe  of  which,  1500  or  2000  men  more  would 
probably  have  made  little  difference,  but  the  want  of  which  would  have 
totally  enfeebled  the  defence  of  Canada,  and  thrown  that  province  into 
the  hands  of  the  United  States.  The  American  ideas  too,  on  the  sub 
ject  of  an  expedition  into  Canada,  and  which  may  possibly  be  carried 
into  execution  at  some  future  period,  merit  the  attention  of  the  Eng 
lish  government,  more  particularly  as  America,  since  she  is  put  in  pos 
session  of  the  Kennebec  and  the  boundary  line,  cuts  the  Sorel  river  be 
low  Lake  Champlain,  can  now  carry  on  her  operations  at  her  ease, 
and  unmolested  on  the  lakes,  and  by  Arnold's  route ;  but,  in  fact, 
Canada  must,  on  a  rupture,  follow  the  fortune  of  the  United  States  ; 


180  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

be  easily  obtained  by  constructing  larger  vessels  than  those  of 
the  English,  and  he  is  persuaded  that  two  fifty  gun  ships  would 
be  sufficient  to  secure  it.  People  are  wrong,  added  he,  in 


that  province  can  only  be  prevented  from  falling  rapidly  before  such  a 
force  as  the  Eastern  States  can  put  in  motion,  by  very  strong  forts 
built  at  the  head  of  the  Kennebec,  St.  Croix,  and  Connecticut  rivers, 
by  forts  on  both  sides  of  the  Sorel,  where  cut  by  the  boundary  line,  on 
both  sides  the  St.  Lawrence  where  it  joins  that  river,  at  the  head  of  the 
carrying  place  above  Niagara,  on  the  English  side,  where  a  new  car 
rying  place,  must  if  possible  be  formed,  and  opposite  the  fort  of  De 
troit  and   Michilimazance,  (now   Michilimackinac.)      All  must  be 
strong,  regular  works,  capable  of  containing  garrisons  with  stores  suf 
ficient  to  stop  the  progress  of  an  enemy's  army,  till  relief  can  arrive 
from  the  interior  of  the  country,,,  where  6  or  8000  regular  forces  must 
be  kept,  besides  strong  garrisons  at  Quebec,  and  Montreal,  the  fortifi 
cations  of  which  must  be  repaired  and  strengthened.     Unless  England 
be  determined  to  adopt,  and  rigorously  to  maintain  all  these  necessa 
ry  defences,  perhaps  after  all  inadequate,  it  is  impossible  that  Canada 
should  long  resist  an  American  expedition.     On  such  a  tenure,  and  at 
such  an  enormous  expense,  will  that  province  be  worth  holding  ?  Mr. 
Payne,  in  his  admirable  letter  to  the  Abbe  Raynal,  makes  the  follow 
ing  judicious  observations  on  this  subject : — "  Respecting  Canada. 
one  or  other  of  these  two  events  will  take  place,  viz. ;  if  Canada  should 
become  populous,  it  will  revolt  ;  and  if  it  do  not  become  so,  it  will 
not  be  worth  the  expense  of  holding.     But  Canada  never  will  become 
populous  ;  Britain  may  put  herself  to  great  expenses  in  sending  set 
tlers  to  Canada,  but  the  descendants  of  those  settlers  will  be  Ameri 
cans,  as  other  descendants  have  been  before  them.     They  will  look 
round  and  see  the  neighbouring  States  sovereign  and  free,  respected 
abroad,  and  trading  at  large  with  the  world  ;  and  the  natural  love  of 
liberty,  the  advantages  of  commerce,  the  blessings  of  independence, 
and  of  a  happier  climate  and  a  richer  soil  will  draw  them  southward, 
and  the  effects  will  be,  that  Britain  will  sustain  the  expense,  and  Ame 
rica  reap  the  advantage,  and  the  same  may  be  said  of  Halifax  and  the 
country  round  it.     One  would  think  that  the  experience  Britain  has 
had  of  America,  would  entirely  sicken  her  of  all  thoughts  of  continent 
al  colonization  ;  and  any  part  she  may  retain,  will  only  become  to  her 
a  field  of  jealousy  and  thorns,  of  debate  and  contention,  for  ever  strug 
gling  for  privileges,  and  meditating  revolt.     She  may  form  new  settle 
ments,  but  they  will  be  for  us  ;  they  will  become  part  of  the  United 
States  of  America ;  and  that  against  all  her  contrivances  to  prevent  it, 
or  without  any  endeavour  of  ours  to  promote  it.     In  the  first  place  she 
cannot  draw  from  them  a  revenue  until  they  are  able  to  pay  one,  and 
when  they  are  so^  they  will  be  above  subjection.     Men  soon  become 
attached  to  the  soil  they  live  upon,  and  incorporated  with  the  prospe 
rity  of  the  place  ;  and  it  signifies  but  little  what  opinions  they  come 
over  with,  for  time,  interest  and  new  connections  will  render  them  ob- 
solete^  and  the  next  generation  know  nothing  of  them, — To  speak  ex- 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  181 

dreading  the  navigation  of  the  Lakes,  and  in  not  daring  to  trust 
large  ships  on  them.  On  all  these  subjects,  he  speaks  as  an 
enterprising  well  informed  man ;  and  capable  of  executing 
what  he  proposes.  I  shall  conclude  this  detail,  by  giving  the 
project  of  a  campaign  against  the  savages,  different  from  that 
adopted  by  Congress  in  1779,  the  execution  of  which  was  en 
trusted  to  General  Sullivan.  According  to  this,  five  hundred 
men  only  should  have  marched  by  Wioming  and  Tioga,  whilst 
the  remainder  of  the  army  made  its  appearance  by  the  head  of 
the  Mohawk  river,  and  Lake  Oneida  to  take  the  savages  in  the 
rear,  and  cut  off  their  retreat  to  Lake  Ontario ;  which  appear 
ed  to  me  reasonable,  because  by  this  means,  the  double  object 
was  fulfilled  of  destroying  the  savages,  and  of  avoiding  a  long 
and  difficult  march  for  the  main  body  of  the  army,  across  the 
Great  Swamp  of  Wioming. 

To  comprehend  this,  it  must  be  recollected  that  in  1779,  the 
Congress,  seeing  their  enemies  confined  to  New-York  and 
Rhode-Island,  thought  they  might  spare  a  body  of  troops  of 


plicitly  on  the  matter,  T  would  not,  were  T  an  European,  have  Canada, 
under  the  conditions  that  Britain  must  retain  it,  could  it  be  given  to 
me.  It  is  one  of  those  kinds  of  dominion  that  is,  and  ever  will  be,  a 
constant  charge  upon  any  foreign  holder. — There  are,  I  doubt  not, 
thousands  of  people  in  England,  who  suppose  that  Canada  and  Nova- 
Scotia  are  a  profit  to  the  nation,  whereas  they  are  directly  the  con 
trary,  and  instead  of  producing  any  revenue,  a  considerable  part  of 
the  revenue  of  England  is  annually  drawn  off'  to  support  the  expense 
of  holding  them." — What  it  costs  England  to  maintain  Canada  alone, 
may  be  known  from  the  following  accurate  abstract,  verified  by  the 
treasury  accounts,  of  the  expenses  of  that  Province,  from  the  1st  of 
June,  1776,  to  the  %4th  of  October,  11 8%, being  six  year  sand  four  months. 

£        s.  d. 

Military—Ordinaries,  688,385  18  21 

Extraordinaries,  4,510,790  12  7" 

,     Civil  Establishment  and  Contingencies,      100,343     8  9 


Total,  £5,299,519  19 


Which  for  6  years  and  4  months,  is          £836,766     6  3  per  ann. 

It  is  true  that  the  war  extraordinaries  must  not  be  taken  into  the  esti 
mate  of  a  peace  establishment,  but  will  not  the  independence  of  the 
United  States  render  a  larger  force  necessary  than  during  the  former 
peace,  besides  the  garrisons  above  mentioned,  &c.;  and  is  war  so  very 
improbable  in  that  quarter  ?  Perhaps  the  most  fortunate  event  for 
Britain  will  be,  to  receive  the  news,  some  spring  or  other,  after  the 
opening  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  that  Canada  has  been  taken  in  the  win 
ter,  with  little  or  no  bloodshed.—  Trans. 


lit*  IK  \\Kls  IN   NORTH-AMERICA. 

three  or  four  thousand  men  against  the  live  nations,  of  whose, 
cruelties  they  had  many  proofs.  The  plan  was  to  carry  off  or 
destroy  them,  and  thus  relieve  the  country  lying  between  the 
Susquehannah  and  the  DeLiwarf.  General  Sullivan,  after  taking 
every  sort  of  precaution  to  secure  the  subsistence  and  health  of 
the  soldiers,  made  a  very  long  and  well  conducted  march. 
drove  the  savages  before  him,  and  burnt  their  villages  and  liar- 
vests.  But  this  was  the  whole  fruit  of  his  expedition,  for  he 
never  had  it  in  his  power  to  cut  them  off;  the  corps  under 
General  Clinton,  which  had  penetrated  by  the  Mohawk  river, 
being  found  too  weak  to  act  of  itself,  was  obliged  to  join  the 
main  body  of  the  army. 

I  did  not  finish  my  reading  before  ten  o'clock ;  and  I  con 
tinued  in  conversation  with  General  Schuyler,  whilst  the  com 
pany  was  at  supper.  It  cannot  be  supposed  that  I  was  able  to 
reason  upon  all  the  subjects  he  had  laid  before  me.  I  con 
tented  myself  therefore  with  remarking  that  every  partial 
expedition  against  Canada,  and  which  did  not  tend  to  the  total 
conquest,  or  rather  the  deliverance  of  that  country,  would  be 
dangerous  and  ineffectual ;  as  it  wrould  not  be  strengthened  by 
the  concurrence  of  the  inhabitants,  they  having  been  already 
deceived  in  their  expectations  in  Montgomery's  expedition, 
and  dreading  the  resentment  of  the  English,  should  they  a 
second  time  show  themselves  favourable  to  the  Americans.  It 
gave  me  pleasure  to  find  him  of  the  same  opinion.  We  then 
separated  well  pleased  with  each  other,  and  I  returned  home 
to  await  the  decision  of  the  weather,  respecting  the  next  day's 
journey. 

The"  27th  in  the  morning,  understanding  that  the  rivers  were 
not  yet  frozen,  and  the  weather  being  fine  but  very  cold,  I 
wished  to  take  advantage  of  it  to  go  to  Schenectady.     This  is 
a  town  situated  14  miles  from  Albany,  on  the  Mohawk  river.    It 
excites  some  curiosity,  from  being  built  in  the  very  country  of 
the  savages  ;  from  its  being  picketed,  that  is  to  say,  surrounded 
with  lofty  palisades,  like  their  villages,  and  from  their  still  re 
taining  some  habitations  there,  which  form  a  sort  of  suburb,  to 
the  east  of  the  town.     It  was  rather  late  when  I  thought  of  this 
ride,  and  it  was  noon  before  I  got  a  sledge;    but  General 
Schuyler  had  assured  me  that  I  should  be  there  in  two  hours, 
on  the  supposition,  doubtless,  that  my  sledge  would  be  better 
provided  with  horses.     I  found  the  roads  very  bad,  and  the 
horses  still  worse  ;  for  they  would  not  draw,  and  if  M.  de  Mon 
tesquieu  had  not  himself  taken  the  reins,  and  pressed  them 
forward  with  more  vivacity  than  their  merciful  conductor,  I 
believe  I  should  have  remained  in  the  snow,  with  which  this 
country  is  covered  six  months  in  the  year.     The  country  which 
lies  between  Albany  and  Schenectady.  is  nothing  but  an  im- 


TRAVELS  L\  JSORTH-AMERK   \  1** 

inense  forest  of  pine-trees,  untouched  by  the  hatchet.  They 
are  lofty  and  robust,  but  thin  sown ;  and  as  nothing  grows 
under  their  shade,  a  line  of  eavalry  might  traverse  this  woods 
without  breaking  their  ranks,  or  defiling.  It  was  three  o'clock, 
and  myself  half  dead  with  cold  when  I  reached  Schenectady. 
This  town  stands  at  the  foot  of  a  small  declivity,  on  your  coming 
out  of  the  woods  ;  it  is  regularly  built,  and  contains  five  hun 
dred  houses  within  the  palisades,  without  reckoning  some 
dwellings  which  form  a  suburb,  and  the  Indian  village  adjoin 
ing  to  the  suburb.  Two  families,  and  eight  inhabitants  are 
reckoned  to  a  house.  Beyond  the  town,  to  the  westward,  the 
country  is  more  open,  and  the  land  very  fertile  ;  it  produces  a 
great  deal  of  corn,  of  which  they  carry  on  a  great  trade.  I 
alighted  at  Colonel  Glen's,  the  Quarter-Master-General  of  this 
district,  a  lively,  active  man.  He  received  me  in  the  politest 
manner;  an  excellent  fire,  and  two  or  three  glasses  of  toddy, 
warmed  me,  so  as  to  enable  me  to  ask  him  some  questions,  and 
to  return  immediately,  for  night  was  coming  on,  and  the 
Vicomte  de  Noailles  expected  me  at  dinner  at  five  o'clock. 
Colonel  Glen  lent  me  horses  to  return  to  Albany,  and  was  so 
good  as  to  conduct  me  himself  into  the  Indian  village.  As 
we  were  preparing  to  set  out,  one  of  these  savages  entered  his 
house  :  he  was  a  messenger  despatched  by  their  hunters,  who 
came  to  inform  him  of  a  party  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  Senecas, 
and  several  tories,  making  their  appearance  a  few  miles  from 
Saratoga,  and  having  even  carried  off  one  of  their  young  men. 
This  messenger  spoke  very  good  French,  and  very  bad  Eng 
lish  ;  born  of  a  Canadian,  or  European  father,  he  had  mixed, 
with  the  savages,  among  whom  he  had  lived  twenty  years, 
rather  from  libertinism  than  any  other  motive.  The  news  he 
brought  was  not  very  encouraging  for  the  journey  I  was  about 
to  take,  but  I  gave  little  credit  to  it,  and  I  was  in  the  right. 

The  Indian  village  Mr.  Glen  conducted  me  to.  is  nothing 
but  an  assemblage  of  miserable  huts  in  the  wood,  along  the 
road  to  Albany.  He  took  me  into  that  of  a  savage  du  Saut 
Saint  Louis,  who  had  long  lived  at  Montreal,  and  spoke  good 
French.  These  huts  are  like  our  barracks  in  time  of  war,  or 
those  run  up  in  vineyards,  or  orchards,  to  watch  the  fruit  when 
it  is  ripe.  All  the  timber  consists  in  two  up-rights  and  one 
cross  pole  ;  it  is  covered  with  a  matted  roof,  but  this  is  well 
lined  within  b*y  a  quantity  of  bark.  The  inner  space  is  rather 
below  the  level  of  the  ground,  and  the  entrance  by  a  little 
side-door ;  in  the  middle  of  the  hut  is  the  fire-place,  from 
which  the  smoke  ascends  by  an  opening  in  the  roof.  On  each 
side  of  the  fire,  are  raised  two  branches,  which  run  the  length 
of  the  hut,  and  serve  to  sleep  on ;  these  are  covered  with  skins 
and  bark.  Besides  the  savage  who  spoke  French,  in  this  hut. 


184  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA, 

there  was  a  squaw,  the  name  given  to  the  Indian  women,  who 
had  taken  him  as  her  second,  and  was  bringing  up  a  child  by 
her  first  husband ;  two  old  men  composed  the  remainder  of 
the  family,  which  had  a  melancholy  and  poor  appearance. 
The  squaw  was  hideous,  as  they  all  are,  and  her  husband  almost 
stupid,  so  that  the  charms  of  this  society  did  not  make  me  for 
get  that  the  day  was  advancing,  and  that  it  was  time  to  set  out. 
All  that  I  could  learn  from  the  Colonel,  or  from  the  savages 
was,  that  the  State  gives  them  rations  of  meat,  and  sometimes 
of  flour ;  that  they  possess  also  some  land,  where  they  sow  In 
dian  corn,  and  go  a  hunting  for  skins,  which  they  exchange  for 
rum.  They  are  sometimes  employed  in  war,  and  are  com 
mended  for  their  bravery  and  fidelity.  Though  in  subjection 
to  the  Americans,  they  have  their  chiefs,  to  whom  application 
is  made  for  justice,  when  an  Indian  has  committed  any  crime. 
Mr.  Glen  told  me,  that  they  submitted  to  the  punishments 
inflicted  on  them  ;  but  had  no  idea  that  it  was  right  to  punish 
them  with  death,  even  for  homicide.  Their  number  at  present 
is  three  hundred  and  fifty ;  which  is  constantly  diminishing,  as 
well  as  that  of 'the  jive  nations.  I  do  not  believe  that  these  five 
nations  can  produce  four  thousand  men  in  arms.  The  savages 
of  themselves  therefore,  would  not  be  much  to  be  dreaded, 
were  they  not  supported  by  the  English,  and  the  American 
tories.  As  an  advanced  guard,  they  are  formidable,  as  an 
army  they  are  nothing.  But  their  cruelty  seems  to  augment 
in  proportion  as  their  numbers  diminish  ;  it  is  such  as  to  render 
it  impossible  for  the  Americans  to  consent  to  have  them  long 
for  neighbours ;  and  a  necessary  consequence  of  a  peace,  if 
favourable  to  the  Congress,  must  be  their  total  destruction,  or 
their  exclusion  at  least  from  all  the  country  within  the  lakes.* 
Those  who  are  attached  to  the  Americans,  and  live  in  some 
manner  under  their  laws,  such  as  the  Mohawks  of  the  environs 
of  Schenectady,  and  part  of  the  Oneidas,  will  ultimately 
become  civilized  and  be  confounded  with  them.  This  is  what 
every  feeling  and  reasonable  man  should  wish,  who,  preferring 
the  interests  of  humanity  to  those  of  his  own  celebrity,  disdains 


*  Dr.  Franklin,  whose  amiable  and  philosophic  mind  sincerely  laments 
all  the  evils  attendant  on  humanity,  used  frequently  to  regret  the  pain 
ful  necessity  under  which  we  foresaw  America  woujd  shortly  find  her 
self  of  using  violence  against  the  savages,  from  the  bloody  scenes  into 
which  they  were  led  by  the  policy  of  the  English  Government.  The 
translator  has  often  heard  him  express  himself  with  the  utmost  sen 
sibility  on  the  subject,  and  suggest  many  expedients  to  prevent  the 
probability  of  matters  being  urged  to  that  horrid  extremity,  but  reason, 
philosophy  and  eloquence  were  in  vain  opposed  by  good  and  wise  men 
to  the  headlong  career  of  that  mad  war. — 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  185 

the  little  artifice  so  often  and  so  successfully  employed,  of  ex 
tolling  ignorance  and  poverty,  to  extort  praises  in  senates  and 
academies. 

I  had  time  enough  to  make  these  and  a  great  many  other  re 
flections,  whilst,  by  the  sole  light  of  the  snow,  I  was  passing 
through  these  majestic  woods,  where  the  silence  which  reigns 
in  the  night  is  seldom  disturbed  even  in  the  day.  I  did  not 
arrive  at  the  apartments  of  the  Vicomte  de  Noailles  till  near 
eight  o'clock,  where  supper,  tea,  and  conversation  detained 
me  till  midnight.  Still  nothing  was  decided  respecting  our 
journey,  and  the  news  we  had  received  was  by  no  means  satis 
factory.  The  next  morning  I  received  a  letter  from  General 
Schuyler,  to  inform  me,  that  having  sent  the  evening  before,  he 
was  told  that  I  was  gone  to  Schenectady,  and  from  thence  to 
Saratoga  ;  but  that  he  was  glad  to  know  I  was  detained  at  Al 
bany,  for  that  finding  himself  much  better  of  his  gout,  he  in 
tended  accompanying  me  the  next  day.  He  requested  me  to 
come  and  pass  the  evening  with  him,  to  settle  our  route,  and 
our  departure.  I  answered  his  letter,  by  accepting  of  all  his 
propositions,  and  employed  part  of  the  morning  in  walking 
about  Albany,  not  without  taking  many  precautions,  for  the 
streets  were  covered  with  ice.  My  first  visit  was  to  the  artil 
lery  park,  or  rather  the  trophies  of  the  Americans  ;  for  there 
is  no  other  artillery  in  this  place  than  eight  handsome  mortars, 
and  twenty  ammunition  wagons,  which  made  part  of  Burgoyne's 
artillery.*  I  entered  a  large  workshop  where  they  were  em 
ployed  in  making  muskets  for  the  army.  The  barrels  of  these 
muskets,  and  the  bayonets,  are  forged  a  few  miles  from  Albany, 
and  polished  and  finished  here.  I  inquired  the  price  of  them, 
and  found  that  the  weapon  complete  costs  about  five  dollars. 
The  armourers  are  enlisted,  and  receive  besides  their  rations, 
very  considerable  salaries,  if  they  were  well  paid.  From  thence 
I  went  to  another  barrack  situated  towards  the  west  of  the 
town,  which  serves  as  a  military  hospital.  The  sick  are  served 
by  women.  Each  of  them  has  a  separate  bed,  and  they  appear 
in  general  to  be  well  taken  care  of,  and  kept  very  clean.  At 
dinner  all  the  company  who  were  to  be  of  the  Saratoga  party 
collected  at  my  lodgings,  and  we  went  afterwards  to  General 
Schuyler's  to  settle  matters  for  our  journey,  and,  in  conse 
quence,  set  out  the  next  day  at  sun  rise,  in  five  different 
sledges.  General  Schuyler  took  me  in  his  own.  We  passed 
the  Mohawk  river  on  the  ice,  a  mile  above  the  cataract.  It 


*  The  principal  part  of  Burgoyne's  artillery  was  conveyed  to  Phila 
delphia,  where  I  saw  a  very  fine  park,  formed  of  them  and  the  pieccr-' 
taken  from  the  Hessians,  in  various  engagements. —  Trans. 

21 


186  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

was  almost  the  first  attempt,  and  succeeded  with  all  but  Major 
Popham,  whose  two  horses  broke  through  the  ice,  and  sunk  in 
to  the  river.  This  event  will  appear  fatal  to  Europeans  ;  but 
let  them  not  be  alarmed  at  the  consequences.  It  is  a  very 
common  accident,  and  is  remedied  in  two  ways  :  one  by  drag 
ging  the  horses  on  the  ice  by  force,  and,  if  possible,  by  the 
help  of  a  lever  or  plank  to  raise  them  up  ;  the  other  by  strang 
ling  them  with  their  halter,  or  the  reins  :  as  soon  as  they  have 
lost  their  respiration,  and  motion,  they  float  on  the  water,  and 
are  lifted  by  their  fore-feet  on  the  ice  ;  the  stricture  is  loosen 
ed,  they  are  bled,  and  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour  are  reinstated  in 
the  harness.  As  there  were  a  great  many  of  us,  the  first  method 
which  is  the  surest,  was  employed.  All  this  may  be  easily  con 
ceived,  but  it  will  be  asked  what  becomes  of  the  sledge,  and 
how  one  does  to  approach  the  gulf  opened  by  the  horses  f 
The  answer  is,  that  these  animals  being  much  heavier  than  the 
sledge,  and  supported  by  four  slender  bases,  break  the  ice  un 
der  their  feet,  without  causing  the  sledge  to  sink,  which  is  light 
of  itself,  and  its  weight  supported  by  long  pieces  of  wood 
which  serve  by  way  of  shafts.  The  travellers  are  not  less  safe, 
the  ice  being  always  thicker  than  is  necessary  to  bear  them. 
As  for  the  horses,  they  easily  keep  themselves  up  on  the  sur 
face  of  the  water,  by  means  of  their  fore-legs,  and  by  resting 
their  heads  upon  the  ice. 

The  accident  which  happened  to  Major  Popham's  sledge, 
did  not  detain  us  above  seven  or  eight  minutes  ;  but  we  went  a 
little  astray  in  the  woods  we  had  to  pass  to  reach  the  high  road. 
We  came  into  it  between  Half  Moon  and  Stillwater.  A  mile 
from  thence,  I  saw  on  the  left,  an  opening  in  the  wood,  and  a 
pretty  extensive  plain,  below  which  runs  a  creek,  and  observed 
to  General  Schuyler,  that  there  must  be  a  good. position  there  : 
he  told  me  I  was  not  deceived,  and  that  it  had  been  reconnoi 
tred  for  that  purpose  in  case  of  need.  The  creek  is  called 
Anthony's  Rill  ;  the  word  rill,  among  the  Dutch,  having  the 
same  signification  as  creek  with  the  Americans.  Three  miles 
farther  on,  we  traversed  a  hamlet  called  Stillwater  Landing- 
place,  for  it  is  here  that  boats  coming  down  from  Saratoga  are 
obliged  to  stop  to  avoid  the  rapids.  From  hence  there  is  a 
portage  of  eight  or  ten  miles  to  the  place  where  the  river  is  na 
vigable.  I  imagine  the  name  of  Stillwater  is  deiived  from  its 
tranquillity  here  previous  to  the  commencement  of  the  rapids. 
General  Schuyler  showed  me  some  redoubts  he  had  construct 
ed  to  defend  the  park,  where  his  boats  and  provisions  were  col 
lected,  after  the  evacuation  of  Fort  Anne  and  Fort  Edward.  We 
stopped  there  to  refresh  our  horses.  The  General  had  given 
the  rendezvous  to  a  militia  officer,  called  Swang,  who  lives  in 
this  neighbourhood,  and  served  in  the  army  of  General  Gates  : 


TRAVELS  IiN  NORTH-AMERICA  187 

he  put  me  into  his  hands,  and  continued  his  route  to  Saratoga, 
to  prepare  our  reception.  I  presently  got  into  a  sledge  with 
my  guide,  and,  at  the  end  of  three  miles,  we  saw  two  houses  on 
the  bank  of  the  river ;  it  was  here  that  General  Gates  had  his 
right,  and  his  bridge  of  boats  defended  by  a  redoubt  on  each 
bank.  We  alighted  to  examine  this  interesting  position, 
which  dissipated  all  the  hopes  of  Burgoyne,  and  prepared  his 
ruin.  I  shall  attempt  to  give  some  idea  of  it,  which  though 
incomplete  indeed,  may  throw  some  light  on  the  relations  of 
General  Burgoyne,  and  even  serve  to  rectify  his  errors. 

The  eminences,  called  Bream's  Heights,  from  whence  this 
famous  camp  is  named,  are  only  a  part  of  those  high  grounds 
which  extend  along  the  right  bank  of  the  Hudson,  from  the 
river  Mohawk  to  that  of  Saratoga.  At  the  spot  chosen  by 
General  Gates  for  his  position,  they  form,  on  the  side  of  the 
river,  two  different  slopes,  or  terraces.  In  mounting  the  first 
slope,  are  three  redoubts  placed  in  parallel  directions.  In 
front  of  the  last,  on  the  north  side,  is  a  little  hollow,  beyond 
which  the  ground  rises  again,  on  which  are  three  more  redoubts, 
placed  nearly  in  the  same  direction  as  the  former.  In  front  of 
them  is  a  deep  ravine  which  runs  from  the  west,  in  which  is  a 
small  creek.  This  ravine  takes  its  rise  in  the  woods,  and  all  the 
ground  on  the  right  of  it  is  extremely  thick  set  with  wood.  If 
you  will  now  return  upon  your  steps,  place  yourself  near  the 
first  redoubts  you  spoke  of,  and  mount  to  the  second  slope 
proceeding  to  the  westward,  you  will  find,  on  the  most  eleva 
ted  platform,  a  large  entrenchment  which  was  parallel  with  the 
river,  and  then  turns  towards  the  north-west,  where  it  termi 
nates  in  some  pretty  steep  summits,  which  were  likewise  forti 
fied  by  small  redoubts.  To  the  left  of  these  heights,  and  at  a 
place  where  the  declivity  becomes  more  gentle,  begins  another 
entrenchment  which  turns  towards  the  west,  and  makes  two  or 
three  angles,  always  carried  over  the  tops  of  the  heights  to  the 
south-west.  Towards  the  north-west,  you  come  out  of  the  lines 
to  descend  another  platform,  which  presents  a  position  the 
more  favourable,  as  it  commands  the  surrounding  woods,  and 
resists  every  thing  which  might  turn  the  left  flank  of  the  army. 
It  is  here  that  Arnold  was  encamped  with  the  advanced  guard. 

If  you  descend  again  from  this  height,  proceeding  towards 
the  north,  you  are  presently  in  the  midst  of  the  woods  near 
Freeman's  'farm,  and  on  the  ground  where  the  actions  of  the 
19th  of  September,  and  the  7th  of  October  happened.  I  avoid 
the  word  field  of  battle;  for  these  two  engagements  were  in  the 
woods,  and  on  ground  so  intersected  and  covered,  that  it  is 
impossible  either  to  conceive  or  discover  the  smallest  resemblance 
between  it  and  the  plan  given  to  the  public  by  General  Burgoyne. 
But  what  appears  to  me  very  clear  is,  that  this  general  who  was 


188  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

encamped  about  four  miles  from  the  camp  of  Bream's  Heights, 
wishing  to  approach,  and  reconnoitre  the  avenues  to  it,  march 
ed  through  the  woods  in  four  columns,  and  that  having  several 
ravines  to  pass,  he  made  General  Frazer,  with  the  advanced 
guard,  turn  them  at  their  origin  ;  that  two  other  columns  tra 
versed  the  ravines,  and  the  woods,  as  well  as  they  could,  with 
out  either  communicating  or  materially  waiting  for  each  other  ; 
that  the  left  column,  chiefly  composed  of  artillery,  followed 
the  course  of  the  river,  where  the  ground  is  more  level,  and 
built  bridges  over  the  ravines  and  rivulets,  which  are  deeper 
on  that  side,  as  they  all  terminate  in  the  river  ;  that  the  engage 
ment  first  began  with  the  riflemen  and  American  militia,  who 
were  supported  as  necessity  required,  without  any  prior  dispo 
sition;  that  the  advanced  guard,  and  the  right  column  were  the 
first  engaged,  and  that  the  combat  lasted  until  the  columns  on 
the  left  arrived,  that  is  to  say,  till  sunset;  that  the  Americans 
then  retired  to  their  camp,  where  they  had  taken  care  to  con 
vey  their  wounded ;  that  the  English  advanced  guard,  and  the 
right  column  greatly  suffered ;  both  one  and  the  other  having 
been  very  long  engaged  in  the  woods  without  any  support. 

General  Burgoyne  purchased  dearly  the  frivolous  honour  of 
sleeping  on  the  field  of  battle  :  he  now  encamped  at  Free 
man's  farm,  so  near  the  American  camp,  that  it  was  impossi 
ble  for  him  to  manoeuvre,  so  that  he  found  himself  in  the  situa 
tion  of  a  chess-player,  who  suffers  himself  to  be  stalemated. 
In  this  position  he  remained  until  the  7th  of  October,  when 
seeing  his  provisions  expended,  hearing  nothing  of  Clinton,  and 
being  too  near  the  enemy  to  retreat  without  danger,  he  tried 
a  second  attack,  and  again  made  an  attempt  for  his  advanced 
guard  to  turn  their  left.  The  enemy,  with  whom  the  woods 
were  filled,  penetrated  his  design,  themselves  turned  the  left 
flank  of  the  corps  which  threatened  theirs,  put  them  to  route, 
and  pursued  them  so  far  as  to  find  themselves,  without  know 
ing  it,  opposite  the  camp  of  the  Germans.  This  camp  was 
situated  en  potence,  and  a  little  in  the  rear  of  the  line.  Arnold 
and  Lincoln,  animated  with  success,  attacked  and  carried  the 
entrenchments :  both  of  them  bought  the  victory  at  the  price 
of  their  blood ;  each  of  them  had  a  leg  broke*  with  musket 
shot.  I  saw  the  spot  where  Arnold,  uniting  the  hardiness  of  a 
jockey^  with  that  of  a  soldier,  leaped  his  horse  over  the  en 
trenchment  of  the  enemy.  It  was  like  all  those  of  this  coun 
try,  a  sort  of  parapet,  formed  by  the  trunks  of  trees  piled  one 


*  Lincoln  was  not  wounded  till  the  next  day. 
t  The  name  given  in  America  to  horse-dealers,  as  well  as  those  who 
take  care  of  horses. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  m 

upon  another.  This  action  was  very  brisk,  to  which  the  fir 
trees,  which  are  torn  by  rnusket  and  cannon  shot,  will  long 
bear  testimony ;  for  the  term  of  their  existence  seems  as  re 
mote,  as  is  the  period  of  their  origin. 

I  continued  reconnoitring  here  till  night ;  sometimes  walk 
ing  in  the  snow,  where  I  sunk  to  the  knees,  and  sometimes  tra 
velling  still  less  successfully  in  a  sledge,  my  conductor  having 
taken  care  to  overset  me,  very  gently  indeed,  in  a  great  heap 
of  snow.  After  surveying  Burgoyne's  lines,  I  at  length  got 
down  to  the  high  road,  passing  through  a  field  where  he  had 
established  his  hospital.  We  then  travelled  more  easily,  and 
I  got  to  Saratoga  at  seven  in  the  evening,  after  a  seven  and 
thirty  miles  journey,  we  found  good  rooms  well  warmed,  an 
excellent  supper,  and  had  a  gay  and  agreeable  conversation ; 
for  General  Schuyler,  like  many  European  husbands,  is  still 
more  amiable  when  he  is  absent  from  his  wife.  He  gave  us 
instructions  for  our  next  day's  expedition,  as  well  to  Fort  Ed 
ward,  as  to  the  great  cataract  of  Hudson's  river,  eight  miles 
above  that  fort,  and  ten  from  lake  George. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


KORT  EDWARD MISS  MACREA GENERAL  BURCOYNE ALBANY- 
SHEFFIELD NEW-HARTFORD LEBANON VOLUNTOWN NEW 
PORT. 

IN  consequence  of  these  arrangements,  we  set  out  the  next 
morning  at  eight  o'clock,  with  the  Majors  Graeme  and  Popham, 
whom  he  had  requested  to  accompany  us.  We  remounted  the 
right  bank  of  the  Hudson  for  near  three  miles,  before  we  found 
a  safe  place  to  pass  the  river  in  our  sledges.  That  we  made 
choice  of  exposed  us  to  no  danger,  the  ice  being  as  thick  as 
we  could  wish  it ;  but,  on  approaching  the  opposite  side,  the 
banks  appeared  to  me  so  high  and  steep  that  I  could  not  con 
ceive  how  we  should  get  up  them.  As  it  is  my  principle  to 
form  no  judgment  of  any  thing  I  do  not  understand,  and  always 
to  conform  myself  in  travelling  as  in  navigation,  to  the  per 
sons  who  are  habituated  to  the  roads,  I  was  sitting  quietly  in 
my  sledge,  waiting  the  event,  when  my  conductor,  a  farmer  of 
the  country,  called  his  horses  with  a  ferocious  cry,  something- 
like  that  of  the  savages;  and 'in  an  instant,  without  a  stroke 
of  the  whip,  they  set  off  with  the  sledge,  and,  in  three  bounds, 
were  at  the  top  of  a  precipice,  of  twenty  feet  high,  nearly  per 
pendicular. 

The  road  to  Fort  Edward  is  almost  always  on  the  side  of 
the  river,  but  you  frequently  lose  sight  of  it  in  the  fir  woods 
you  pass  through.  From  time  to  time  you  discover  tolerable 
handsome  houses  on  the  two  banks.  That  of  the  unfortunate 
Miss  MacRea,  who  was  killed  by  the  savages,  was  pointed  out 
to  me.  If  the  whigs  were  superstitious,  they  would  attribute 
this  event  to  the  Divine  vengeance.  The  parents  of  Miss 
MacRea  were  whigs,  nor  did  she  belie  the  sentiments  with 
which  they  had  inspired  her,  until  she  became  acquainted  with 
an  English  officer  at  New- York,  who  triumphed  at  once  over 
her  virtue,  and  her  patriotism.  From  that  moment  she  es 
poused  the  interests  of  England,  and  waited  till  she  had  an 
opportunity  of  marrying  her  lover.  The  war,  which  soon  ex 
tended  to  New-York,  as  well  as  Boston,  obliged  her  father  to 
retire  to  his  country-house,  which  he  abandoned  immediately 
on  the  approach  of  Burgoyne's  army.  But  Miss  MacRea's 
lover  was  in  this  army ;  she  wished  to  see  him  again  as  a  con- 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  191 

queror,  to  marry  him,  and  then  partake  of  his  toils  and  his  suc 
cesses.  Unfortunately  the  Indians  composed  the  vanguard  of 
this  army;  these  savages  are  not  much  accustomed  to  distin 
guish  friends  from  foes  ;  they  pillaged  the  house  of  Miss  Mac- 
Rea,  and  carried  her  off.  When  they  had  conducted  her  to 
their  camp,  it  was  a  matter  of  dispute  to  whom  she  should  be 
long;  they  could  not  agree,  and  to  terminate  the  quarrel, 
some  of  them  killed  her  with  a  tomahawk.*  The  recital  of 
this  sad  catastrophe,  whilst  it  made  me  deplore  the  miseries  of 
war,  concentrated  all  my  interest  in  the  person  of  the  English 
officer,  to  whom  it  was  allowable  to  listen  at  once  to  his  pas 
sion  and  his  duty.  I  know  that  a  death  so  cruel  and  unforeseen, 
would  furnish  a  very  pathetic  subject  for  a  drama,  or  an  elegy ; 
but  nothing  short  of  the  charms  of  eloquence  and  poetry  is 
capable  of  moving  the  heart,  for  such  a  destiny,  by  exhibiting 
only  the  effect,  and  throwing  the  cause  into  the  shade ;  for 
such  is  the  true  character  of  love,  that  all  the  noble  and  gene 
rous  affections  seem  to  be  its  natural  attendants,  and  if  it  be 
that  it  can  sometimes  ally  itself  with  blameable  circumstances, 
every  thing  at  least  which  tends  to  humiliate  or  degrade  it, 
either  annihilates  or  disguises  its  genuine  features. 

As  you  approach  Fort  Edward  the  houses  become  more  rare. 
This  fort  is  built  sixteen  miles  from  Saratoga,  in  a  little  valley 
near  the  river,  on  the  only  spot  which  is  not  covered  with 
wood,  and  where  you  can  have  a  prospect  to  the  distance  of  a 
musket-shot  around  you.  Formerly  it  consisted  of  a  square, 
fortified  by  two  bastions  on  the  east  side,  and  by  two  demi-bas 
tions  on  the  side  of  the  river ;  but  this  old  fortification  is 
abandoned,  because  it  was  too  much  commanded,  and  a  large 
redoubt,  with  a  simple  parapet  arid  a  wretched  palisade,  is 
built  on  a  more  elevated  spot :  within  are  small  barracks  for 
about  two  hundred  soldiers.  Such  is  Fort  Edward,  so  much 
spoken  of  in  Europe,  although  it  could  in  no  time  have  been 
able  to  resist  five  hundred  men,  with  four  pieces  of  cannon. 
I  stopped  here  an  hour  to  refresh  my  horses,  and  about  noon 
set  off  to  proceed  as  far  as  the  cataract,  which  is  eight  miles 
beyond  it.  On  leaving  the  valley,  and  pursuing  the  road  to 
Lake  George,  is  a  tolerable  military  position,  which  was  occu 
pied  in  the  war  before  the  last :  it  is  a  sort  of  entrenched 
camp,  adapted  to  abattis,  guarding  the  passage  from  the 
woods,  and  commanding  the  valley. 

I  had  scarcely  lost  sight  of  Fort  Edward,  before  the  spectacle 


*  A  particular  account  of  this  melancholy  occurrence'  is  to  be  found 
in  the  "  Northern  Traveller,"  published  by  Mr.  Goodrich.  New- 
York. 


192  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

of  devastation  presented  itself  to  my  eyes,  and  continued  to  dis 
tress  them  as  far  as  the  place  I  stopped  at.  Peace  and  indus 
try  had  conducted  cultivators  amidst  these  ancient  forests,  men 
content  and  happy,  before  the  period  of  this  war.  Those  who 
were  in  Burgoyne's  way  alone  experienced  the  horrors  of  his 
expedition  5  but  on  the  last  invasion  of  the  savages,  the  deso 
lation  has  spread  from  Fort  Schuyler,  (or  Fort  Stanwisfc,)  even 
to  Fort  Edward  ;  I  beheld  nothing  around  me  but  the  remains 
of  conflagrations ;  a  few  bricks,  proof  against  the  fire,  were 
the  only  indications  of  ruined  houses ;  whilst  the  fences  still 
entire,  and  cleared  out  lands,  announced  that  these  deplorable 
habitations  had  once  been  the  abode  of  riches,  and  of  happi 
ness.  Arrived  at  the  height  of  the  cataract  it  was  necessary 
to  quit  our  sledges,  and  walk  half  a  mile  to  the  bank  of  the 
river.  The  snow  was  fifteen  inches  deep,  which  rendered  this 
walk  rather  difficult,  and  obliged  us  to  proceed  in  Indian  files, 
in  order  to  make  a  path.  Each  of  us  put  ourselves  alternately 
at  the  head  of  this  little  column,  as  the  wild  geese  relieve 
each  other  to  occupy  the  summit  of  the  angle  they  form  in 
their  flight.  But  had  our  march  been  still  more  difficult,  the 
sight  of  the  cataract  was  an  ample  recompense.  It  is  not  a 
sheet  of  water  as  at  Cohoes,  and  at  Totohaw :  the  river  con 
fined,  and  interrupted  in  its  course  by  different  rocks,  glides 
through  the  midst  of  them,  and  precipitating  itself  obliquely 
forms  several  cascades.  That  of  Cohoes  is  more  majestic,  this, 
more  terrible :  the  Mohawk  river  seems  to  fall  from  its  own 
dead  weight ;  that  of  Hudson  frets,  and  becomes  enraged,  it 
foams  and  forms  whirlpools,  and  flies  like  a  serpent  making  its 
escape,  still  continuing  its  menaces  by  horrible  hissings. 

It  was  near  two  when  we  regained  our  sledges,  having  two 
and  twenty  miles  to  return  to  Saratoga,  so  that  we  trod  back 
our  steps  as  fast  as  possible  ;  but  we  still  had  to  halt  at  Fort 
Edward  to  refresh  our  horses.  We  employed  this  time,  as  we 
had  done  in  the  morning,  in  warming  ourselves  by  the  fire  of 
the  officers  who  command  the  garrison.  They  are  five  in 
number,  and  have  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  soldiers.  They 
are  stationed  in  this  desert  for  the  whole  winter,  and  I  leave 
the  reader  to  imagine  whether  this  garrison  be  much  more 
gay  than  those  of  Gravelines,  or  Briancon.*  We  set  oft'  again 
in  an  hour,  and  night  soon  overtook  us;  but  before  it  was  dark, 
I  had  the  satisfaction  to  see  the  first  game  I  had  met  with  in 
my  journey :  it  was  a  bevy  of  quails ;  by  some  called  par 
tridges,  though  they  have  a  much  greater  resemblance  of 
quails.  They  were  perched  to  the  number  of  seven,  upon  a 

*  Two  of  the  most  melancholy  garrisons  in  France. — Tran*. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AM  ERIC  A.  1UU 

fence.  I  got  out  of  my  sledge  to  have  a  nearer  view  of  them : 
they  suffered  me  to  approach  within  four  paces,  and  to  make 
them  rise  I  was  obliged  to  throw  my  cane  at  them  ;  they  all  went 
off  together,  in  a  flight  similar  to  that  of  partridges,  and  like 
them  they  are  sedentary.* 

Our  return  was  quick  and  fortunate  :  we  had  no  accident  to 
fear  but  at  the  second  passage  of  the  river,  and  the  descent  of 
the  precipice  we  had  mounted.  I  waited  for  this  fresh  trial 
with  as  much  confidence  as  the  former ;  but  a  sledge,  which 
was  before  mine,  stopping  at  that  place,  and  the  darkness  of 
the  night  preventing  me  from  distinguishing  any  thing,  I  ima 
gined  that  the  company  were  going  to  alight,  the  first  sledge 
was  that  of  the  Vicomte  de  Noailles,  and  the  Comte  de  Damas  ; 
but  I  was  scarcely  alighted,  before  I  saw  this  sledge  set  out 
with  all  its  lading,  and  slide  down  the  precipice  with  such  ra 
pidity  that  it  could  not  be  stopped  at  thirty  yards  from  the  bot 
tom.  They  make  no  more  ceremony  in  descending  these  pre 
cipices,  than  in  mounting  them  :  the  horses  accustomed  to  this 
manoeuvre,  precipitate  themselves,  as  rapidly  as  they  launch 
off  the  carriage,  so  that  the  sledge  sliding  like  the  Ramasse  of 
mount  Cenis,  cannot  touch  their  hind  legs  and  make  them  fall. 

At  half  past  six,  we  reached  General  Schuyler's,  where  we 
spent  our  evening  as  agreeably  as  the  former. 

The  31st  we  got  on  horseback  at  eight  o'clock,  and  Mr. 
Schuyler  conducted  us  himself  to  the  camp  occupied  by  the 
English  when  General  Burgoyne  capitulated.  We  could  not 
have  a  better  guide,  but  he  was  absolutely  necessary  for  us  in 
every  respect  ;  for  besides  that  this  event  happened  before  his 
eyes,  and  that  he  was  better  able  than  any  body  to  give  us  an 


*  This  bird  can  neither  be  classed  in  the  species  of  quails,  aor  in 
that  of  partridges  ;  it  is  larger  than  the  former,  and  smaller  than  the 
latter ;  the  feathers  of  the  wings  and  body  are  nearly  of  the  same 
colour  with  the  grey  partridge,  those  of  the  belly  are  mixed  with 
grey  and  black,  like  the  bartavelle.  The  neck  of  the  cock  is 
white,  that  of  the  hen  yellow,  both  of  them  have  a  handsome  black 
collar.  It  whistles  like  a  quail,  but  with  more  force ;  and  has 
four  notes,  whereas  the  quail  has  only  three.  In  other  respects  its 
manners  resemble  more  those  of  the  red  partridge  than  the  quail,  for 
it  perches,  arid  is  always  in  a  flock  ;  it  haunts  the  woods  and  morasses. 
This  bird  is  very  common  in  America,  more  so  to  the  southward,  than 
in  the  northern  parts.  It  is  no  exaggeration  to  assert  that  in  one  win 
ter  only,  and  in  a  circle  of  five  or  six  leagues,  the  officers  in  winter 
quarters  at  Williamsburgh  and  York,  killed  upwards  of  six  thousand, 
and  that  they  bought  as  many  of  the  negroes,  which  they  had  taken  in 
little  snares,  yet  it  was  difficult  to  perceive  any  diminution  of  their 
numbers  the  following  spring. 

25 


J94  TRAVELS  IX  NORTH-AMERICA. 

account  of  it,  no  person  but  the  proprietor  of  the  ground  him 
self  was  able  to  conduct  us  safely  through  the  woods  ;  the  fen 
ces  and  entrenchments  being  covered  a  foot  deep  with  snow. 
In  throwing  your  eyes  upon  the  chart,  you  will  see  that  Sara 
toga  is  situated  on  the  bank  of  a  small  river  which  comes  from 
a  lake  of  that  name,  and  falls  into  the  Hudson.  On  the  right 
bank  of  the  Fishkill,  the  name  of  that  little  river,  stood  former 
ly  a  handsome  country-house  belonging  to  General  Schuyler  ; 
a  large  farm  depending  on  it,  two  or  three  saw-mills,  a  meet 
ing-house,  and  three  or  four  middling  houses,  composed  all  the 
habitations  of  this  celebrated  place,  the  name  of  which  will  be 
handed  down  to  the  latest  posterity.  After  the  affair  of  the 
7th  of  October,  General  Burgoyne  began  his  retreat ;  he 
marched  in  the  night  between  the  8th  and  9th,  but  did  riot  pass 
the  creek  till  the  13th,  s&fnuch  difficulty  he  had  in  dragging 
his  artillery,  which  he  persisted  in  preserving,  although  the  great 
est  part  of  his  horses  were  killed,  or  dead  with  hunger.  He 
took  four  days  therefore  to  retire  eight  miles,  which  gave  the 
Americans  time  to  follow  him  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Hudson, 
and  to  get  before  him  on  the  left  bank,  where  they  occupied 
in  force  all  the  passages.  General  Burgoyne  had  scarcely 
reached  the  other  side  of  the  creek,  before  he  set  fire  to  Gene 
ral  Schuyler's  house,  rather  from  malice,  than  for  the  safety  of 
his  army  ;*  since  this  house,  situated  in  a  bottom,  could  afford 


*  This  is  a  matter  in  which  General  Burgoyne's  honour  and  'hu 
manity,  seem  to  be  directly  called  in  question.  The  General  in^his 
examination  of  witnesses  on  the  inquiry  into  the  failure  of  his  expedi 
tion  before  the  House  of  Commons,  was  particularly  anxious  to  excul 
pate  himself  on  the  subject,  and  to  prove  not  only  that  it  always  was 
necessary  in  a  military  point  of  view  to  destroy  this  house,  but  that 
General  Schuyler  himself  afterwards  admitted  that  necessity — in  oppo 
sition  to  which  we  have  here  the  assertion  of  a  man  of  rank  distinguish 
ed  in  the  military  and  literary  world,  as  well  as  the  General,  who  on  the 
testimony  of  General  Schuyler,  asserts,  "  Que  le  General  Burgoyne  fut 
a  peine  de  Vautre  cott  de  la  creek,  qu'il  Jit  mettrc  lefeu  ,  la  maison 
du  General  Schuyler,  plutot  par  humblur,  que  pour  la  surett  de  son  ar- 
mee  ;  &c.  &c."  The  Translator  knows  General  Burgoyne  to  be  a 
soldier  of  honour,  who  in  that  capacity  never  wishes  to  forget  the  par 
amount  duties  of  the  citizen,  and  the  man  ;  the  Marquis  de  Chastel- 
lux  too,  deservedly  stands  high  in  the  public  estimation  ;  it  is  with  in 
finite  concern  therefore,  that  the  Translator  finds  himself  unable  to  re 
fute  the  injurious  assertion,  or  reconcile  the  contradiction.  That  the 
matter  may  be  fairly  brought  to  issue,  he  subjoins  an  extract  from 
General  Burgoyne's  speech  in  the  House  of  Commons,  in  answer  to 
u  a  call  upon  him  by  Mr.  Wilkes,  for  explanation  respecting  the  burn 
ing  of  the  country  during  the  progress  of  the  army  under  his  command.1* 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  195 

no  advantage  to  the  Americans,  and  he  left  the  farm  standing, 
which  is  at  present  the  only  asylum  for  the  owner.  It  is  here 
that  Mr.  Schuyler  lodged  us  in  some  temporary  apartments  he 
fitted  up,  until  happier  times  allow  him  to  build  another  house. 
The  creek  runs  between  two  steep  ascents,  the  summits  of 
which  are  about  the  same  height ;  it  then  descends  by  several 
rapids  which  turn  the  mills  :  there  the  ground  is  more  open, 
and  continues  so  to  the  north  river  ;  that  is  to  say,  for  half  a 
mile.  As  to  General  Burgoyne's  position,  it  is  difficult  to  de 
scribe  it,  because  the  ground  is  so  very  irregular,  and  the  Ge- 


"  I  am  ignorant,  said  the  General,  of  any  such  circumstance  :  I  do  not 
recollect  more  than  one  accident  by  fire  ;  I  positively  assert  there  was 
no  fire  by  order,  or  countenance  of  myself,  or  any  other  officer,  except 
at  Saratoga.     That  district  is  the  property  of  Major-General  Schuyler 
of  the  American  troops  ;  there  were  large  barracks  built  by  him,  which 
took  fire  the  day  after  the  army  arrived  on  the  ground  in  their  retreat ; 
and  I  believe,  1  need  not  state  any  other  proof  of  that  matter  being 
merely  accident,  than  that  the  barracks  were  then  made  use  of  as  my 
hospital,  and  full  of  sick  and  wounded  soldiers.     General  Schuyler  had 
likewise  a  very  good  dwelling-house,  exceeding  large   store-houses, 
great  saw-mills,  and  other  out-buildings,  to  the  value  altogether  per 
haps  of  ten  thousand  pounds  :  a  few  days  before  the  negotiation  with 
General  Gates,  the  enemy  had  formed  a  plan  to  attack  me  :  a  large 
column  of  troops  was  approaching  to  pass  the  small  river,  preparato 
ry  to  a  general  action,  and  was  entirely  covered  from  thejire  of  my  ar 
tillery  by  those  buildings.     Sir,  I  avow  that  I  gave  the  order  to  set 
them  on  fire  ;  and  in  a  very  short  time  the  whole  property  I  have  de 
scribed  was   consumed.     But,  to  show  that  the  person  most  deeply 
concerned  in  that  calamity  did  not  put  the  construction  upon  it  which, 
it  has  pleased  the  honourable  gentleman  to  do,  I  must  inform  the  House, 
that  one  of  the  first  persons  I  saw,  after  the  convention  was  signed,  was 
General  Schuyler.     I  expressed  to  him  my  regret  at  the  event  which 
had  happened,  and  the  reasons  which  occasioned  it.     He  desired  me 
to  think  no  more  of  it ;  said  that  the  occasion  justified  it  according  to 
the  principles  and  rules  of  war,  and  he  should  have  done  the  same 
upon  the  same  occasion,  or  words  to  that  effect.     He  did  more — he 
sent  an  aid-de-camp  to  conduct  me  to  Albany,  in  order  as  he  express 
ed,  to  procure  me  better  quarters  than  a  stranger  might  be  able  to  find. 
This  gentleman  conducted  me  to  a  very  elegant  house,  and  to  my  great 
surprise,  presented  me  to  Mrs.  Schuyler  and  her  family  :  and  in  this 
General's  house  I  remained  during  my  whole  stay  at  Albany,  with  a 
table  of  more  than  twenty  covers  for  me  and  rny  friends,  and  every  other 
possible  demonstration  of  hospitality  ;  a  situation  painful  as  it  is  true 
in  point  of  sensibility  at  the  time,  but  which  I  now  contemplate  with 
some  satisfaction,  as  carrying  undeniable  testimony  how  little  I  de 
served  the  charges  of  the  honourable  gentleman." — Trans, 


196  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

neral  finding   himself  surrounded,  was  obliged  to  divide  hi** 
troops  into  three  camps,  forming  three  different  fronts  ;  one 
facing   the   creek,  another  Hudson  river,  and  the  third  the 
mountains  to  the  westward.     General  Burgoyne's  plan,  gives 
a  tolerable  just  idea  of  this  position,  which  was  not  ill  taken, 
and  is  only  defective  on  the  side  of  the  Germans,  where  the 
ground  forms  a  rising,   the   declivity  of  which  was  against 
them.     All  that  it  is  necessary  to  observe  is,  that  the  woods  con 
tinually  rise  towards  the  west ;  so  that  the  General  might  very 
well  occupy  some  advantageous  eminences,  but  never  the  sum 
mits.     Accordingly,  General  Gates  who  arrived  at  Saratoga, 
almost  as  soon  as  the  English  passed  two  thousand  men  over 
the  creek,  with  orders  to  begin  to  fire  on  the   14th  and  consi 
derably  incommode  the  English.     General  Schuyler  criticises 
this  position ;  he  pretends   that  this  corps  so  advanced  as  to 
be  in  danger,  without  being  strong  enough  to  oppose  the  re 
treat  of  the  enemy.     But  when   we  consider  that  these  two 
thousand  men  were  posted  in  very  thick  woods;  that  they 
were  protected  by  abattis ;  had  a  secure  retreat  in  the  im 
mense  forest  in  their  rear,  and  that  they  had  only  to  harass  a 
flying  enemy,  whose  courage  was  broken,  every  military  man 
will  think  with  me  that  this  was  rather  the  criticism  of  a  severe 
rival,  than  of  a  well  informed  and  methodical  tactician.     Be 
this  as  it  may,  it  is  very  certain  that  Burgoyne  had  no  other 
alternative  than  to  let  his  troops  be  slaughtered,  or  capitulate. 
His  army  had  only  five  days  provision,  and  it  was  impossible 
for  him  to  retain  his  position.     It  was  proposed  to  him  to  re 
store  an  old  bridge  of  boats,  which  had  been  constructed  in 
the  very  front  of  his  camp  ;  but  a  corps  of  two  thousand  men 
were  already  posted  on  the  heights  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river,  where  they  had  raised  a  battery  of  two  pieces  of  cannon. 
Had  he  undertaken  to  remount  by  the  right  bank,  to  attain  the 
fords  which  are  near  Fort  Edward,  he  had  ravines  to  pass  and 
bridges  to  repair  ;  besides  that  these  defiles  were  already  oc 
cupied  by  the  militia,  and  the  vanguard  alone  must  have  been 
engaged  with  them,  whilst  he  had  a  whole  army  on  his  rear, 
and  on  his  flanks.     He  had  scarce  time  to  deliberate,  the  can 
non  shot  began  to  shower  into  the  camp  ;  one  of  which  fell  in 
the  house  where  the  council  of  war  was  holding,  and  obliged 
them  to  quit  it  to  take  refuge  in  the  woods. 

Let  us  now  compare  the  situation  of  General  Burgoyne,  col 
lecting  his  trophies,  and  publishing  his  insolent  manifesto  at 
Ticonderoga,  with  that  in  which  he  now  stood,  when  vanquish 
ed,  and  surrounded  as  he  was  by  a  troop  of  peasants,  not  a 
place  was  left  him  even  to  discuss  the  terms  of  supplication. 
I  confess  when  I  was  conducted  to  the  spot  where  the  English 
laid  down  their  arms,  and  to  that  where  they  filed  off  before 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  197 

Gates'  army,  I  could  not  but  partake  of  the  triumph  of  the 
Americans,  and  at  the  same  time  admire  their  magnanimi 
ty;  for  the  soldiers  and  officers  beheld  their  presumptuous 
and  sanguinary  enemies  pass,  without  offering  the  smallest 
insult,  without  suffering  an  insulting  smile  or  gesture  to  es 
cape  them.  This  majestic  silence  conveyed  a  very  striking 
refutation  of  the  vain  declarations  of  the  English  general,  and 
seemed  to  attest  all  the  rights  of  our  allies  to  the  victory. 
Chance  alone  gave  rise  to  an  allusion  with  which  General  Bur- 
goyne  was  very  sensibly  affected.  It  is  the  custom  in  England, 
and  in  America,  on  approaching  any  person  for  the  first  time, 
to  say,  I  am  very  happy  to  see  you ;  General  Gates  chanced  to 
make  use  of  this  expression  in  accosting  General  Burgoyne : 
I  believe  you  are ;  replied  the  general,  the  fortune  of  the  day  is 
entirely  yours.  General  Gates  pretended  to  give  no  attention 
to  this  answer,  and  conducted  Burgoyne  to  his  quarters,  where 
he  gave  him  a  good  dinner,  as  well  as  to  the  principal  part  of 
the  English  officers.  Every  body  ate  and  drank  heartily,  and 
seemed  mutually  to  forget  their  misfortunes,  or  their  suc 
cesses. 

Before  dinner,  and  at  the  moment  when  the  Americans  were 
striving  who  should  entertain  the  English  officers,  somebody 
came  to  ask  where  Madame  Riedesel,  the  wife  of  the  Bruns 
wick  general,  was  to  be  conducted.  Mr.  Schuyler,  who  had 
followed  the  army  as  a  volunteer,  since  he  had  quitted  the 
command,  ordered  her  to  be  shown  to  his  tent,  where  he  went 
soon  after,  and  found  her  trembling  and  speechless,  expecting 
to  find  in  every  American  a  savage,  like  those  who  had  follow 
ed  the  English  army.  She  had  with  her  two  charming  little 
girls,  about  six  or  seven  years  old.  General  Schuyler  caress 
ed  them  greatly ;  the  sight  of  this  touched  Madame  de  Riede 
sel  and  removed  her  apprehension  in  an  instant ;  you  are  tender 
and  sensible,  said  she,  you  must  then  be  generous,  and  lam  happy 
to  have  fallen  into  your  hands. 

In  consequence  of  the  capitulation,  the  English  army  was 
conducted  to  Boston.  During  their  march  the  troops  encamp 
ed,  but  lodgings  were  to  be  procured  for  the  generals,  and 
there  being  some  difficulty  in  procuring  near  Albany  a  proper 
quarter  for  General  Burgoyne  and  his  suite,  Mr.  Schuyler  offer 
ed  him  his  handsome  house.  He  was  himself  detained  by  bu 
siness  at  Saratoga,  where  he  remained  to  visit  the  ruins  of  his 
other  house,  which  General  Burgoyne  had  just  destroyed ;  but 
he  wrote  to  his  wife  to  prepare  every  thing  for  giving  him  the 
best  reception,  and  his  intentions  were  perfectly  fulfilled.  Bur 
goyne  was  extremely  well  received  by  Mrs.  Schuyler,  and  her 
little  family ;  he  was  lodged  in  the  best  apartment  in  the  house. 
An  excellent  supper  was  served  him  in  the  evening,  the  honours 


198  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

of  which  were  done  with  so  much  grace,  that  he  was  affected 
even  to  tears ;  and  could  not  help  saying,  with  a  deep  sigh, 
Indeed  this  is  doing  too  much  for  the  man  who  has  ravaged  their 
lands  and  burnt  their  asylum.  The  next  morning,  however,  he 
was  again  reminded  of  his  disgraces  by  an  adventure  which 
would  have  appeared  gay  to  any  one  but  him.  It  was  always 
innocently  that  he  was  afflicted.  His  bed  was  prepared  in  a 
large  room ;  but  as  he  had  a  numerous  suite,  or  family,  several 
mattresses  were  spread  upon  the  floor  for  some  officers  to  sleep 
near  him.  Mr.  Schuyler's  second  son,  a  little  spoilt  child  of 
about  seven  years  old,  very  forward  and  arch,  as  all  the  Ame 
rican  children  are,  but  very  amiable,  was  running  all  the  morn 
ing  about  the  house,  according  to  custom,  and  opening  the 
door  of  the  saloon,  he  burst  out  a  laughing  on  seeing  all  the 
English  collected,  and  shutting  it  after  him,  crying,  Ye  are  all 
my  prisoners :  this  stroke  of  nature  was  cruel,  and  rendered 
them  more  melancholy  than  the  preceding  evening. 

I  hope  I  shall  be  pardoned  these  little  anecdotes,  which  only 
appeared  interesting  to  myself,  perhaps  solely  from  their  pro 
ceeding  from  the  source,  and  being  acquired  upon  the  spot. 
Besides,  a  plain  journal  merits  some  indulgence,  and  when  one 
does  not  write  history,  it  is  allowable  to  write  little  stories. 
Henceforth  I  have  only  to  take  leave  of  General  Schuyler,  de 
tained  by  business  at  Saratoga,  and  to  tread  back  my  steps  as 
fast  as  possible  to  Newport. 

In   repassing  near  Bream's  Height,  and   Stillwater,  I  had 
again  an  opportunity  of  examining  the  right  flank  of  General 
Burgoyne's  camp,  of  which  it  seemed  to  me  that  his  plan  gives 
a  pretty  accurate  idea.     I  was  assured  that  I  might  return  to 
Albany  by  the  eastern  road,  but  on  arriving  at  Half-Moon, 
I  learnt  that  the  ice  was  broken  in  several  places,  so  that  after 
reposing  some  time  in  a  handsome  inn,  kept  by  Madam  Peo 
ple,  a  Dutchman's  widow,  I  took  the  road  by  the  Mohawk 
river,  which  I  passed  without  accident,  and  arrived  at  Albany 
about  six  in  the  evening.   We  immediately  assembled  (I  speak 
only  of  the  six  French  travellers)  to  concert  measures  for  our 
return.     Not  a  moment  was  to  be  lost,  for  the  wind  having  got 
to  the  southward,  the  thaw  was  beginning ;  and  it  might  very 
well  happen  that  we  should  be  detained  a  considerable  time 
at  Albany  :  for,  when  you  cannot  pass  the  river  on  the  ice,  you 
are  sometimes  obliged  to  wait  eight  or  ten  days  before  it  is 
navigable,  and  you  can  pass  the  ferry.   It  was  necessary  there 
fore  to  set  out  immediately ;  but  as  we  were  too  many  to  travel 
together,  it  was  determined  that  the  Vicomte  de  Noailles  and 
his  two  companions  should  set  off  the  next  morning  at  day 
break,  and  sleep  thirty  miles  from  Albany  ;  and  that  I  should 
set  out  at  noon,  and  stay  all  night  at  Kinderhook.     The  Vi~ 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  lyy 

€omte  de  Noailles  had  left  his  horses  on  the  other  side  of  the 
river,  and  had  already  sent  over  his  sledge,  nothing  therefore 
stood  in  the  way  of  his  departure,  the  ice  being  certainly  thick 
enough  for  him  to  pass  on  foot.  My  situation  was  very  differ 
ent  ;  I  had,  at  Albany,  two  sledges,  which  belonged  to  the 
state,  and  were  furnished  me  by  the  aid-Quarter-Master-Ge 
neral,  an  excellent  man,  called  Quakerbush.  My  intention  was 
to  pay  for  them ;  but  he  would  not  allow  it,  assuring  me  that 
I  had  only  to  deliver  them  to  the  Quarter-Master  of  Rhode- 
Island,  who  would  return  them  by  the  first  opportunity.  This 
is  a  very  convenient  arrangement  for  the  military  on  the  con 
tinent,  and  for  all  such  a?  are  employed  in  commissions  for  the 
public  service  :  each  state  maintains  horses  for  travelling,  no 
thing  more  being  requisite  than  to  deliver  them  to  the  Quar 
ter-Master  of  the  place  at  which  you  leave  them.  In  the 
northern  states,  there  are  sledges  also  for  the  same  purpose. 

As  we  were  deliberating  on  our  journey.  Colonel  Hughes, 
Quarter-Master  of  the  State  of  New- York,  came  to  call  upon 
us :  he  had  just  arrived  from  an  expedition  towards  Fishkill, 
and  testified  great  regret  at  not  having  been  at  Albany  during 
our  stay.  I  must  repeat  here  what  I  have  already  said,  that  it 
is  impossible  to  imagine  a  more  frank,  and  more  noble  polite 
ness,  a  more  courteous  behaviour,  than  I  experienced  from  the 
greatest  part  of  the  American  officers  with  whom  I  had  any 
concern.  Mr.  Hughes  was  so  good  as  undertake  to  conduct 
me  to  the  other  side  of  the  river,  and  promised  to  call  upon 
me  the  next  day  at  eleven  o'clock. 

I  had  travelled  far  enough  in  the  day  to  hope  for  a  quiet 
sleep,  but,  at  four  in  the  morning,  I  was  awakened  by  a  mus 
ket  fired  close  to  my  windows :  I  listened,  but  heard  not  the 
smallest  noise  or  motion  in  the  street,  which  made  me  imagine 
it  was  some  musket  discharged  of  itself  without  causing  any 
accident.  I  again  attempted  to  go  to  sleep,  but  a  quarter  of 
an  hour  after  a  fresh  musket  or  pistol  shot  interrupted  my  re 
pose ;  this  was  followed  by  several  others;  so  that  I  had  no 
longer  any  doubt  that  it  was  some  rejoicing,  or  feast,  like  our 
village  christenings.  The  hour  indeed  struck  me  as  unusual, 
but  at  length  a  number  of  voices  mingled  with  musketry,  cry 
ing  out,  new  year,  reminded  me  that  we  were  at  the  first  of 
January,  and  I  concluded  that  it  was  thus  the  Americans  cele 
brate  that  event.  Though  this  manner  of  proclaiming  it  was 
not,  I  must  own,  very  pleasing  to  me,  there  was  nothing  for  it 
but  patience ;  but  at  the  end  of  half  an  hour,  I  heard  a  con 
fused  noise  of  upwards  of  a  hundred  persons,  chiefly  children, 
or  young  people,  assembled  under  my  windows,  and  I  very 
soon  had  farther  indication  of  their;;proximity,  for  they  fired 
several  musket  shot,  knocked  rudely  at  the  door,  and  threw 


200  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

stones  against  my  windows.  Cold  and  indolence  still  kept  me 
in  bed,  but  Mr.  Lynch  got  up,  and  came  into  my  chamber  to 
tell  me  that  these  people  certainly  meant  to  do  me  honour, 
and  get  some  money  from  me.  I  desired  him  to  step  down, 
and  give  them  two  Louis :  he  found  them  already  masters  of 
the  house,  and  drinking  my  landlord's  rum.  In  a  quarter  of 
an  hour,  they  went  off  to  visit  other  streets,  and  continued 
their  noise  till  daylight.  On  rising,  I  learnt  from  my  land 
lord,  that  it  was  the  custom  of  the  country  for  the  young 
folks,  the  servants,  and  even  the  negroes,  to  go  from  tavern  to 
tavern,  and  to  other  houses,  to  wish  a  good  new  year,  and  ask 
for  drink  ;  so  that  there  was  no  particular  compliment  to  me 
in  this  affair,  and  I  found,  that  after  the  example  of  the  Po>- 
man  emperors,  I  had  made  a  largess  to  the  people.  In  the 
morning,  when  I  went  out  to  take  leave  of  General  Clinton,  I 
met  nothing  but  drunken  people  in  the  streets  ;  but  what  asto 
nished  me  the  most  was  too  see  them  not  only  walk,  but  run 
upon  the  ice  without  falling,  or  making  a  false  step,  whilst  it 
was  with  the  utmost  difficulty  I  kept  upon  my  legs. 

As  soon  as  my  sledges  were  ready,  I  took  one  of  them  to  go 
and  bid  adieu  to  Mrs.  Schuyler  and  her  family,  whence  I  re 
turned  to  Colonel  Hughes,  who  was  waiting  for  me  at  the  en 
trance  of  the  town.  He  had  learnt,  since  he  left  us,  that  the 
Baron  de  Montesquieu  was  grandson  of  the  author  of  The  Spi 
rit  of  Laws.  Rejoiced  at  this  discovery,  he  desired  me  to  in 
troduce  him  a  second  time  to  the  gentleman  whe  bore  so  re 
spectable  a  name  ;  and  a  few  minutes  after,  as  I  was  express 
ing  my  sensibility  for  the  services  he  had  done  us,  and  my 
regret  at  the  same  time  at  not  having  it  in  my  power  to  repay 
them,  he  said  to  me  with  a  sentiment  truly  amiable,  "  Well 
then  !  since  you  wish  to  do  something  for  me,  try  to  procure 
a  French  copy  of  the  Spirit  of  Laws.  I  do  not  speak  your 
language,  but  I  understand  your  books,  and  shall  be  happy  to 
read  that  in  the  original."  I  proposed  to  send  him  a  copy, 
and  have  been  so  lucky  as  to  be  able  to  fulfil  my  promise  on 
my  return  to  Newport.  After  this  conversation  he  took  me  to 
the  river-side,  at  the  place  he  thought  the  safest ;  but,  as  I 
was  about  to  venture  myself,  the  first  object  I  beheld  was  a 
sledge,  the  horses  of  which  were  sinking  under  the  ice,  at 
twenty  paces  from  me.  Judge  of  my  consternation ;  I  must 
tread  back  my  steps,  and  remain  perhaps  a  week  at  Albany  till 
the  thaw  was  complete,  and  the  river  free  from  floating  ice. 
Colonel  Hughes  bid  me  to  return  to  my  inn,  and  remain  there 
quietly,  until  he  sent  a  man  and  horse  along  the  river  to  in 
quire  for  a  place  to  pass  over.  Three  sledges,  however,  with 
rum  for  the  state  storehouses  appeared  on  the  other  side,  and 
.seemed  determined  to  risk  the  passage,  but  he  sent  a  man  on 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  201 

loot  to  stop  them,  after  which  I  left  him  sorrowfully  enough. 
About  one  o'clock,  as  I  was  reading  by  my  fireside,  Mr. 
Hughes'  secretary  entered,  and  told  me  that  the  sledges  he 
had  sent  to  stop,  had  persisted  in  passing,  and  succeeded  by 
avoiding  the  hole  made  by  the  horses  I  had  seen  sinking,  and 
which  were  extricated  with  great  difficulty.  As  the  thaw  con 
tinued,  I  had  not  a  moment  to  lose,  the  horses  were  instantly 
put  to,  and  I  set  out,  under  the  auspices  of  Colonel  Hughes, 
who  was  waiting  for  me  at  the  river-side.  As  soon  as  I  got 
over  I  parted  from  him ;  but  had  still  half  a  mile  to  go  upon 
the  ice,  before  I  could  get  to  a  landing  place  which  led  me 
to  the  high  road ;  all  danger  was  now  over,  and  I  reached 
Kinderhook  with  ease  towards  six  o'clock. 

I  set  out  the  next  morning  at  nine,  and  after  passing  the 
bridge  of  Kinderhook,  left  the  Clavarack  road  on  the  right,  to 
follow  that  of  Nobletown.  I  stopped  in  this  township,  and 
alighted  at  Makingston's  Tavern,  a  small  'neat  inn,  in  which 
two  travellers  may  be  conveniently  lodged.  Having  an  oppor 
tunity  of  conversing  with  the  cousin  and  neighbour  of  Mr. 
Makingston,  of  the  same  name  with  himself;  he  told  me  he 
had  been  a  Major  in  the  American  army,  and  received  a  ball 
through  his  thigh  in  Canada.  He  said  that  his  nerves,  irritated 
with  the  wound,  became  contracted,  and  he  halted  for  upwards 
of  a  year  ;  but  that  at  the  affair  of  Princeton,  after  travelling 
eighteen  miles  on  foot,  he  happening  to  leap  over  a  fence,  by 
this  effort  the  contracted  nerves  broke  or  rather  lengthened 
themselves,  so  that  he  has  never  since  been  lame. 

As  soon  as  my  horses  had  rested  a  little,  I  continued  my 
journey,  and  travelling  among  woods  and  mountains,  it  was 
night  before  I  got  to  Sheffield.  I  traversed  this  whole  town, 
which  is  about  two  miles  long,  before  I  got  to  Mr.  Dewy's  inn. 
Sheffield  is  a  very  pretty  place,  there  are  a  good  many  well 
built  houses,  and  the  high  road  that  separates  them  is  upwards 
of  a  hundred  paces  wide.  My  inn  gave  me  pleasure  the  mo 
ment  I  entered  it ;  the  master  and  mistress  of  the  house  ap 
peared  polite  and  well  educated ;  but  I  admired  above  all  a 
girl  of  twelve  years  old,  who  had  all  the  beauty  of  her  age,  and 
whom  Greuze  would  have  been  happy  to  have  taken  for  a  mo 
del,  when  he  painted  his  charming  picture  of  the  young  girl 
crying  for  the  loss  of  her  canary  bird.  When  I  was  shown  in 
to  my  chamber,  I  amused  myself  in  looking  at  some  books 
scattered  on  the  tables.  The  first  I  opened  was  the  Abridg 
ment  of  Newton's  Philosophy :  this  discovery  induced  me  to 
put  some  questions  to  fny  landlord  on  physics,  and  geometry, 
with  which  I  found  him  well  acquainted,  and  that  he  was  be 
sides  very  modest,  and  very  good  company.  He  is  a  surveyor, 

26 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

a  very  active  employment  in  a  country  where  there  is  perpetu 
ally  land  to  measure,  and  boundaries  to  fix. 

The  3d  in  the  morning,  I  was  sorry  to  find  that  the  weather, 
which  had  been  hitherto  uncertain,  was  ended  in  a  thaw.  I 
had  to  traverse  the  Greenwoods,  a  rugged,  difficult,  and  desert 
country.  The  snow  remaining  on  the  ground,  and  giving  me 
still  hopes  of  being  able  to  continue  my  route  in  a  sledge,  I 
kept  mine,  and  proceeded  tolerably  well  as  far  as  Canaan,  a 
small  town  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Housatonick,  seven 
miles  from  Sheffield  meeting-house ;  there  I  turned  to  the  left, 
and  began  to  climb  the  mountains  ;  unfortunately  the  snow 
failed  me  where  it  was  the  most  necessary,  and  I  was  obliged 
to  walk  almost  alwTays  on  foot  to  relieve  my  horses,  which  were 
sometimes  labouring  to  drag  the  sledge  out  of  the  mud,  and  at 
others  to  pull  it  over  stones  two  or  three  feet  high.  This  road 
is,  in  fact,  so  rough,  that  it  is  hardly  possible  to  make  use  of 
sledges,  unless  there  be  a  foot  and  a  half  of  snow  upon  the 
ground.  It  was  with  the  utmost  difficulty  therefore  I  travelled 
fifteen  miles  to  a  wretched  inn  dependant  on  Norfolk.  On 
leaving  this  inn,  I  got  into  the  Greenwoods.  This  forest  is 
part  of  the  same  chain  of  mountains  I  had  passed  in  going  to 
Fishkill  by  the  Litchfield  road ;  but  here  the  trees  are  superb ; 
they  are  firs,  but  so  strong,  so  straight  and  lofty,  that  I  doubt 
whether  there  are  any  like  them,  in  all  North- America.  I  re 
gret  that  Salvator  Rosa,  or  Gaspard  Poussin,  never  saw  the  ma 
jestic  and  truly  grandioso  picture  a  deep  valley  here  affords, 
through  which  runs  the  small  river  called  the  Naragontad. 
This  valley  appears  still  more  narrow  from  the  immense  firs 
that  shade  it ;  some  of  which,  rising  in  an  oblique  direction, 
seem  to  unite  their  tops  purposely  to  intercept  the  rays  of  the 
sun.  When  you  have  passed  this  river,  you  mount  for  four  or 
five  miles,  and  then  descend  as  much  ;  continually  bounding 
from  one  large  stone  to  another  which  cross  the  road,  and  give 
it  the  resemblance  of  stairs.  Here  one  of  my  sledges  broke, 
and  night  approaching,  I  was  at  a  loss  how  to  repair  it,  ima 
gining  myself  in  an  uninhabitable  desert ;  I  tried  to  get  it  for 
ward  broken  as  it  was,  but  despaired  of  succeeding,  when  two 
hundred  steps  farther  on,  I  found  a  small  house,  and  opposite 
to  it  a  forge,  where  the  fire  was  lighted,  and  the  blacksmith  at 
work.  A  pilot  who  discovers  land  in  unknown  seas,  is  not 
more  happy  than  I  was  at  this  sight.  I  politely  requested  the 
honest  man  to  leave  his  work  and  repair  my  sledge,  which  he 
agreed  to,  and  I  continued  to  follow  that  in  good  condition,  on 
foot,  despairing  of  ever  seeing  the  other,  which  arrived  however 
an  hour  after  me.  Such  are  the  resources  travellers  meet  with 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  203 

in  America,  and  such  the  excellent  police*  of  this  country,  that 
no  road  is  destitute  of  what  is  necessary  for  their  wants. 

This  day  was  destined  to   be  full  of  contrarieties.     It  was 
seven  in  the  evening  when  I  arrived  at  New-Hartford,  where  I 
expected  to  find  a  good  inn,  called  Gilbert's  House.     Three 
American  officers  who,  having  rode  on  horseback,   had  very 
easily  passed  me,  were  so  polite  as  .to  go  farther  on,  in  order  to 
leave  me  the  whole  house  ;  but  I  was  told,  and  it  was  evident 
on  entering,  that  it  was  impossible  I  could  be  accommodated. 
The  masons  were  repairing  it,  and  at  work  every  where  :  so 
that  I  had  now  no  other  hope  but  at  the  inn  of  a  Mr.  Case,  two 
miles  farther,  beyond  Farmington  river ;  but  learning  that  the 
American  officers  were  there,  I  inquired  whether  I  could  not 
be  lodged  elsewhere,  and  was  recommended  to  an  old  woman, 
called  Mrs.  Wallen,  who  formerly  kept  an  inn,  and  I  was  flat 
tered  with  hopes  of  her  receiving  me.     I  continued  therefore 
to  follow  my  sledge  on  foot,  and  having,  with  difficulty,  reach 
ed  this  house,  I  implored  Mrs.  Wallen's  hospitality,  who  con 
sented,  but  merely  to  oblige  me.     I  remained  here  some  time, 
but  finding  it  a  very  poor  house,  and  the  apartments  wretched, 
I  sent  one  of  my  people  to  Case's,  to  try  if  he  could  find  me 
some  corner  to  lodge  in.     They  contrived  to  let  me  have  one, 
and  I  went  thither  on  foot,  leaving  my  horses  at  the  other  house. 
I  was  lucky  enough  to  find  a  good  bed,  and  a  supper,  such  as  it 
was,  but  which  appeared  to  me  excellent,  less  because  I  had  a 
good  appetite,  than  from  being  waited  on  by  a  tall  woman  of 
five  and  twenty,  handsome,  and  of  a  noble  appearance.     I  in 
quired  of  my  landlady  if  she  was  her  daughter,  but  she,  a  good, 


*  The  word  police  is  certainly  inapplicable  in  this  case,  although 
the  fact  be,  as  the  Marquis  states  it.  The  respective  governments  of 
America,  never  dreamt  of  compelling  persons  to  keep  public  houses, 
or  blacksmith's  and  wheelwright's  shops,  nor  could  such  a  regulation 
be  enforced  without  infinite  difficulty,  even  in  established  and  arbitrary 
governments.  A  moment's  reflection,  but  above  all,  a  knowledge  of 
the  constitutions,  and  the  nature  of  the  country,  may  convince  any  per 
son  that  this  assertion,  which  is  repeated  in  this  work,  can  only  be  the 
result  of  misinformation,  or  misapprehension.  I  have  said  that  the  ex: 
istence  of  these  resources  is  a  fact,  having  experienced  their  utility  "and 
frequency  in  all  parts  of  the  country,  but  this  arises  from  the  necessity 
of  such  occupations,  in  the  innumerable  new  settlements  which  are 
spread  over  great  part  of  the  continent,  wherein  every  settler  is  obliged 
more  or  less  to  be  a  handicraftsman,  and  where  they  are  all  compelled 
mutually  to  administer  to  each  other's  wants.  In  them  too,  the  publi 
can,  who  is  so  far  from  being  precluded  from  other  pursuits,  that  he  fre 
quently  becomes  the  first  farmer,  the  first  magistrate,  the  first  military 
officer  of  the  district,  is  a  necessary  appendage. —  Trans. 


204  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

fat  woman,  very  industrious  and  talkative,  and  who  had  taken 
me  into  favour  for  giving  ready  answers  to  the  questions  she 
had  put,  told  me  she  had  never  had  any  children,  although  she 
then  had  one  in  her  arms,  which  she  was  dandling  and  caress 
ing.     To  whom  does  that  belong  then,  said  I  ?     To  the  tall 
wroman  you  see,  replied  she — and  who  is  her  husband  ? — She 
has  none — She  is  a  widow  then .? — No,  she  was  never  married. 
It  is  an  unlucky  affair,  too  long  to  tell  you :  the  poor  girl  was 
in  want,  I  took  her  to  live  with  me  and  provide  for  the  mother 
and  child. — Is  it  advancing  a  paradox  to  say,  that  such  con 
duct  proves,  more  than  any  thing,  the  pure  and  respectable 
manners  of  the  Americans  ?     With  them  vice  is  so  strange, 
and  so  rare,  that  the  danger  of  example  has  almost  no  effect ; 
so  that  a  fault  of  this  nature  is  regarded  only  as  an  accidental 
error,  of  which  the  individual,  attacked  with  it,  must  be  cured, 
without  taking  any  measures  to  escape  the  contagion.     I  must 
add  too,  that  the  acquisition  of  a  citizen  in   this  country  is 
so  precious,  that  a  girl,  by  bringing  up  her  child,  seems  to  ex 
piate  the  weakness  which  brought   it  into   existence.     Thus 
morality,  which  can  never  differ  from  the  real  interest  of  socie 
ty,  appears  sometimes  to  be  local  and  modified  by  times  and 
circumstances.     When  an  infant  without  an  asylum,  and  with 
out  property,  shall  become  a  burthen  to  the  state,  a  being  de 
voted  to  misfortune,  owing  its  preservation  to  pity  alone,  and 
not  to  the  public  utility,  we  shall  then  see  the  mother  humbled, 
nay  perhaps  punished,  and  this  severity  will  then  be  vindica 
ted  here,  as  well  as  elsewhere,  by  all  those  austere  dogmas 
which  at  present  are  neglected  or  forgotten.* 

I  proposed  making  a  short  journey  the  next  day  to  Hartford, 
fifteen  miles  only  from  the  place  I  slept  at,  but  it  seeming  to 
me  impossible  to  perform  it  except  on  horseback,  I  left  the 


*  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  it  will  be  long,  very  long  ere  the  barbarous 
prejudices  and  punishments  of  polished  Europe  shall  be  introduced  in 
to  this  happy  country.  At  present,  the  natural  commerce  between 
the  sexes  universally  takes  place,  to  the  exclusion  of  exotic  vices,  and 
without  involving  the  weak  and  unprotected  female  in  all  the  horrors 
of  sjiame,  misery  and  child-murder.  Here  libertinism  is  by  no  means 
the  consequence  of  an  accidental  frailty,  nor  is  the  mother,  who  in  fol 
lowing  the  strong  impulse  of  Nature,  has  given  a  member  to  society, 
thrown  an  outcast  upon  the  world,  lost  to  herself,  and  compelled  to  be 
come  vicious.  The  error  of  passion,  though  condemned,  is  venial,  and 
she  is  neither  driven  to  despair  by  cruelty,  nor  excluded  from  the  sweet 
prospect  of  giving  birth  to  future  offspring,  under  the  sanction  of  every 
legitimate  and  sacred  title.  Nothing  is  more  common  in  this  country, 
than  such  slips  in  the  first  violence  of  an  early  puberty,  nor  less  fre 
quent  than  a  repetition  of  the  same  weakness. — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  205 

two  State  sledges  with  Mr.  Case,  taking  a  receipt  from  him, 
which  I  afterwards  delivered  to  Mr.  Wadsworth.  At  first  I 
was  not  satisfied  with  the  exchange,  as  I  travelled  some  time 
on  heights  covered  with  snow,  well  calculated  for  the  sledge, 
but  on  descending  towards  Farmington  river,  I  found  the  thaw 
complete,  and  mud  instead  of  snow.  The  woods  I  had  just 
passed  through,  were  very  different  from  the  Greenwoods  ; 
they  were  full  of  small  firs,  whose  verdant  hue  pleased  the 
eye,  and  the  road  was  by  accident  so  prettily  laid  out,  that  it 
is  impossible  to  imagine  a  better  model  for  walks  in  the  Eng 
lish  style. 

When  I  had  passed  Farmington  river,  T  mounted  a  pretty 
long  and  steep  hill,  on  which  I  observed,  from  time  to  time, 
objects  interesting  to  the  lovers  of  natural  history.  You  see, 
among  other  things,  large  masses  of  rocks,  or  rather  vast  blocks 
of  stone,  which  have  no  sort  of  correspondence  with  the  rest  of 
the  mountain,  and  appear  as  if  they  had  been  launched  there 
by  some  volcano.  I  remarked  one  more  singular  than  the  rest, 
and  stopped  to  measure  it :  it  is  a  sort  of  socle,  or  long  square, 
thirty  feet  long  by  twenty  high,  and  as  many  wide,  not  unlike 
the  pedestal  of  the  statue  of  Peter  the  Great  one  sees  at  Pe- 
tersburgh.  On  the  east  side,  it  is  split  from  top  to  bottom, 
the  crack  is  about  a  foot  and  a  half  wide  at  the  top,  but  much 
less  at  bottom.  Some  shrubs  vegetate  in  the  little  earth  there 
is,  and  on  the  very  summit  of  the  rock  grows  a  small  tree,  but 
I  could  not  tell  of  what  species.  The  stone  is  hard,  of  the  na 
ture  of  quartz,  and  is  no  wise  volcanized. 

I  got  to  Hartford  about  three,  and  being  informed  that  Mr. 
Wadsworth  was  absent,  I  was  afraid  of  incommoding  his  wife 
and  sister  by  going  to  lodge  there,  and  went  to  a  very  good  inn 
kept  by  Mr.  Bull,  who  is  accused  of  being  rather  on  the  other 
side  of  the  question ;  a  polite  method  of  designating  a  tory.     I 
only  made  a  transient  visit   therefore  to  Mrs.  Wadsworth,  to 
invite  myself  to  breakfast  the  next  morning.     The  5th  I  did 
not  set  out  till  eleven,  although  I  had  thirty  miles  journey  to 
Lebanon.     At  the  passage  of  the  Ferry,  I  met  with  a  detach 
ment  of  the  Rhode-Island  regiment,  the  same  corps  we  had 
with  us  all  the  last  summer,  but  they  have  since  been  recruited 
and  clothed.     The  greatest  part  of  them  are  negroes  or  mu- 
lattoes* ;  but  they  are  strong,  robust  men,  and  those  I  have  seen 
had  a  very  good  appearance.     We  had  fine  weather  all  day, 
and  got  to  Lebanon  at  sunset.  Not  that  I  got  to  Lebanon  meet 
ing-house,  where  the  Duke  de  Lauzun  was  quartered  with  his 
Hussars,  that  was  six  miles  farther,  still  travelling  in  Lebanon. 
Who  would  not  think,  after  this,  that  I  am  speaking  of  an  im 
mense  city  *?  and  in  fact,  this  is  one  of  the  most  considerable 
towns  in  the  country,  for  it  consists  of  at  least  one  hundred 


206  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

houses;  teit  it  is  unnecessary  to  add,  that  they  are  much  scat 
tered,  and  distant  from  each  other  frequently  more  than  four 
or  five  hundred  paces. 

It  will  be  easily  imagined  that  I  was  not  sorry  to  find  myself 
in  the  French  army,  of  which  these  Hussars  formed  the  advan 
ced  guard,  although  their  quarters  be  seventy-five  miles  from 
Newport;  but  there  are  no  circumstances  in  which  I  should  not 
be  happy  with  M.  de  Lauzun.  For  two  months  I  had  beenv 
talking,  and  listening,  with  him  I  conversed  :  for  it  must  be  al 
lowed  that  conversation  is  still  the  peculiar  forte  of  the  amia 
ble  French ;  a  precious  appendage  for  our  nation,  which  it 
neglects  possibly  too  much,  and  may  one  day  chance  to  for 
feit.  It  is  told  of  an  Englishman  accustomed  to  be  silent,  that 
he  said,  talking  spoils  conversation.  This  whimsical  expres 
sion  contains  great  sense  :  every  body  can  talk,  but  nobody 
knows  how  to  listen :  insomuch  that  the  society  of  Paris,  such 
as  I  left  it,  resembles  the  chorus  of  an  opera,  which  a  few  cory- 
phies  alone  have  a  right  to  interrupt ;  each  theatre  has  its  par 
ticular  coryphaeus  ;  each  theatre  has  its  chorus  too,  which 
chime  in,  and  its  pit  which  applaud  without  knowing  why. 
Transplant  the  actors,  or  change  the  theatre,  the  effect  of  the 
piece  is  lost.  Fortunate  for  the  spectators,  when  the  stock  is 
abundant,  and  they  are  not  satiated  with  a  repetition  of  the 
same  production. 

But  I  am  got  very  far  from  America,  where  I  must  return 
however,  if  it  be  only  to  hunt  a  few  squirrels.  The  Duke  de 
Lauzun  entertained  me  with  this  diversion,  which  is  much  in 
fashion  in  this  country.  These  animals  are  large?jand  have  a 
more  beautiful  fur  than  those  in  Europe  ;  like  ours,  they  are 
very  adroit  in  slipping  from  tree  to  tree,  and  in  clinging  so 
closely  to  the  branches  as  to  become  almost  invisible.  You 
frequently  wound  them,  without  their  falling  ;  but  that  is  a 
slight  inconvenience,  for  you  have  only  to  call  or  send  for 
somebody,  who  applies  the  hatchet  to  the  tree,  and  presently 
knocks  it  down.  As  squirrels  are  not  rare,  you  will  conclude 
then,  and  very  justly,  that  trees  are  very  common.  On  re 
turning  from  the  chase,  I  dined  at  the  Duke  de  Lauzun's,  witli 
Governor  Turnbull  and  General  Huntington.  The  former 
lives  at  Lebanon,  and  the  other  had  come  from  Norwich.  I 
have  already  painted  Governor  Turnbull,  at  present  you  have 
only  to  represent  to  yourself  this  little  old  man,  in  the  antique 
dress  of  the  first  settlers  in  this  colony,  approaching  a  table 
surrounded  by  twenty  Hussar  officers,  and  without  either  dis 
concerting  himself,  or  losing  any  thing  of  his  formal  stiffness, 
pronouncing,  in  a  loud  voice,  a  long  prayer  in  the  form  of  a 
lenedicite.  Let  it  not  be  imagined  that  he  excites  the  laughter 
of  his  auditors ;  they  are  too  well  trained:  you  must,  on  the 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  207 

contrary,  figure  to  yourself  twenty  Amens  issuing  at  once  from 
the  midst  of  forty  mustaches,*  and  you  will  have  some  idea  of 
this  little  scene.  But  M.  de  Lauzun  is  the  man  to  relate,  how 
this  good,  methodical  governor,  didactic  in  all  his  actions,  in 
variably  says,  that  he  will  consider  ;  that  he  must  refer  to  his 
council ;  how  of  little  affairs  he  makes  great  ones,  and  how 
happy  a  mortal  he  is  when  he  has  any  to  transact.  Thus,  in 
the  two  hemispheres,  Paris  alone  excepted,  ridicule  must  not 
imply  inaptitude  to  govern ;  since  it  is  by  the  character  men 
govern,  and  by  the  character  men  make  themselves  ridicu 
lous. 

I  proposed  leaving  Lebanon  the  7th  at  ten  o'clock,  but  the 
weather  was  so  bad  that  1  staid  till  past  one,  expecting  it  to 
clear  up  ;  I  was  obliged,  however,  to  set  out  at  last  in  a  melt 
ing  snow,  the  most  continued,  and  the  coldest  I  ever  experi 
enced.  The  bad  weather  urged  me  on  so  fast  that  I  arrived 
at  Voluntown  about  five  o'clock.  If  the  reader  recollects 
what  I  have  said  at  the  beginning  of  my  journal  of  Mr.  D's. 
house,  he  will  not  be  surprised  at  my  returning  to  it  with  plea 
sure.  Miss  Pearce  however  was  no  longer  there,  but  she  was 
replaced  by  the  youngest  Miss  D.  a  charming  pretty  girl,  al 
though  not  so  regular  a  beauty  as  her  friend.  She  has,  like 
her,  modesty,  candour,  and  beauty  in  all  her  features ;  and  has 
besides,  a  serenity  mixed  with  gaiety,  which  render  her  as 
amiable  as  the  other  is  interesting.  Her  eldest  sister  had  laid 
in  since  I  was  last  at  Voluntown  ;  she  was  in  a  great  chair, 
near  the  fire,  around  which  her  family  were  seated.  Her  noble 
and  commanding  countenance  seemed  more  changed  by  mis 
fortune  than  by  suffering ;  yet  every  body  about  her  was  em 
ployed  in  consoling  and  taking  care  of  her ;  her  mother,  seat 
ed  by  her,  held  in  her  arms  the  infant,  smiling  at  it,  and  ca 
ressing  it ;  but  as  for  her,  her  eyes  were  sorrowfully  fixed  upon 
the  little  innocent,  eyeing  it  with  interest,  but  without  plea 
sure,  as  if  she  were  saying  to  it,  miser o  paragoletto  il  tuo  destin, 
non  sai.-\  Never  did  a  more  interesting  or  more  moral  picture 
exercise  the  pencil  of  a  Greuze,  or  the  pen  of  a  tender  poet. 
May  that  man  be  banished  from  the  bosom  of  society  who 
could  be  so  barbarous  as  to  leave  this  amiable  girl  a  prey  to  a 
misfortune  which  it  is  in  his  power  to  repair ;  and  may  every 
benediction  which  heaven  can  bestow  be  showered  on  the  be 
ing,  generous  and  just  enough  to  give  her  more  legitimate  titles 


*  The  Hussars  of  Lauzun's  Legion,  and  the  Duke  himself  wore 
mustaches  in  America. — Trans. 

t  Unhappy  child !  thou  knowest  not  the  lot  that,  is  reserved  for 
thee.  Metastasio.  Demopkoon. 


>' 


208  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

to  the  hallowed  names  of  wife  and  mother,  and  thus  restore 
her,  to  all  that  happiness,  which  nature  had  designed  her.* 

My  journey  henceforward  affords  nothing  worthy  of  the 
smallest  attention.  I  slept  next  day  at  Providence,  and  arrived 
the  9th  at  Newport ;  satisfied  with  having  seen  many  interest 
ing  things,  without  meeting  with  any  accident ;  but  with  a  sor 
rowful  reflection  that  the  place  I  arrived  at,  after  travelling  so 
far,  was  still  fifteen  hundred  leagues  from  that  where  I  had  left 
my  friends ;  where  I  shall  enjoy  the  little  knowledge  I  have 
acquired,  by  sharing  it  with  them :  where  I  shall  again  be 
happy,  if  there  still  be  any  happiness  in  store  for  me  ;  the  only 
place  in  short,  dove  da  longhi  errori  spero  di  reposar.^ 


*  See  what  is  said  on  this  subject,  in  a  note  at  the  commencement 
of  this  journal. 

t  I  wish  to  recompense  those  who  shall  have  the  patience  to  com 
plete  the  perusal  of  this  journal,  by  laying  before  them  the  charming 
passage  of  Metastasio  from  whence  these  words  are  borrowed. 

LHDnda  dal  mar  divisa 

Bagna  la  valla  e  il  monte. 

Va  passagiera  in  fiume 

Va  prigioniera  in  fonte  ; 

Mormora  sempre  e  geme 

Fin  che  non  torna  al  mar. 

Al  mar  dove  ella  nacque 

Dove  acquisto'  gli  umori 

Dove  da  lunghi  errori 

Spera  di  reposar. 

The  following  is  a  free  translation : 

The  wave  once  separated  from  the  sea,  strays  over  the  mountains:, 
or  bathes  the  vallies  :  anon  it  travels  with  the  rivers,  &c.  now  is  kept 
prisoner  in  the  fountains ;  but  it  never  ceases  to  murmur  and  complain 
until  it  returns  unto  the  sea. 

To  the  sea  its  native  abode,  to  the  sea  its  last  asylum,  where  fatigued 
after  its  long  wanderings,  it  hopes  at  length  to  find  some  repose. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

PART   II. 

JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR 

IN  UPPER  VIRGINIA,  IN  THE  APALACHIAN  MOUNTAINS, 
AND  TO  THE  NATURAL  BRIDGE. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 


CHAPTER  I. 


WILLIAMSBURGH NEWCASTLE HANOVER MONTICELLO. 

FROM  the  moment  the  French  troops  were  established  in  the 
quarters  they  occupied  in  Virginia,  I  formed  the  project  of 
travelling  into  the  upper  parts  of  that  province,  where  I  was 
assured  that  I  should  find  objects  worthy  of  exciting  the  curi 
osity  of  a  stranger ;  and  faithful  to  the  principles,  which  from 
my  youth  I  had  lain  down,  never  to  neglect  seeing  every  coun 
try  in  my  power,  I  burned  with  impatience  to  set  out.     The 
season  however,  was  unfavourable,  and  rendered  travelling 
difficult  and  laborious  ;  besides,  experience  taught  me   that 
travelling  in  winter  never  offered  the  greatest  satisfaction  we 
can  enjoy  ;  that  of  seeing  nature,  such  as  she  ought  to  be,  and 
of  forming  a  just  idea  of  the  general  face  of  a  country  ;  for  it 
is  easier  for  the  imagination  to  deprive  a  landscape  of  the 
charms  of  spring,  than  to  clothe  with  them,  the  hideous  skele 
ton  of  winter ;  as  it  is  easier  to  imagine  what  a  beauty  at 
eighteen  may  be  at  eighty,  than  to  conceive  what  eighty  was 
at  eighteen. — Monsieur  de  Rochambleau  being  absent  like 
wise  during  the  month  of  February,  and  Monsieur  la  Chevalier 
de  la  Luzerne  having  chosen  the  month  of  March  to  pay  us  a 
visit,  politeness  and  my  duty  obliged  me  to  wait  till  April,  be 
fore  I  could  begin  my  travels. — On  the  8th  of  that  month  I  set 
out  with  Mr.  Lynch,  then  my  aid-de-camp  and  Adjutant,  now 
General ;  Mr.  Frank  Dillon,  my  second  aid-de-camp, *  arid  Mr. 
le  Chevalier  d'Oyre  of  the  engineers  :  six  servants  and  a  led 
horse  composed  our  train ;  so  that  our  little  caravan  consisted 
of  four  masters,  six  servants,  and  eleven  horses.     I  regulated 
my  journey  by  the  spring,  and  gave  it  time  sufficient  to  precede 
us.     For  though  in  the  37th  degree  of  latitude,  one  might  ex 
pect  to  find  it  in  the  month  of  April,  I  saw  no  trace  of  it  in  the 
wood  through  which  we  passed  ;  the  verdure  being  hardly  dis 
coverable  on  the  thorns,  the  sun  notwithstanding  was  very  ar- 

*  Monsieur  le  Baron  de  Montesquieu  went  to  Europe  after  the 
siege  of  York,  and  did  not  return  until  the  month  of  September  fol 
lowing. 


212  TRAVELS  *N  NORTH-AMERICA . 

dent,  and  I  regretted  to  find  summer  in  the  heavens,  whilst 
the  earth  afforded  not  the  smallest  appearance  of  the  spring. 
The  eighteen  miles  through  which  we  passed,  before  we  baited 
our  horses  at  Bird's  tavern,  were  sufficiently  known  to  me,  for 
it  was  the  same  road  I  travelled  last  summer  in  coming  from 
Williamsburgh.  The  remaining  sixteen,  which  completed  our 
day's  work  and  brought  us  to  New-Kent  court-house,  offered 
nothing  curious ;  all  I  learnt  by  a  conversation  with  Mr.  Bird 
was,  that  he  had  been  pillaged  by  the  English  when  they  pass 
ed  his  house  in  their  march  to  Westover,  in  pursuit  of  Monsieur 
de  la  Fayette,  and  in  returning  to  Williamsburgh,  after  en 
deavouring  in  vain  to  come  up  with  him.  It  was  comparative 
ly  nothing  to  see  their  fruits,  fowls,  and  cattle  carried  away  by 
the  light  troops  which  formed  the  vanguard,*  the  army  col 
lected  what  the  vanguard  had  left,  even  the  officers  seized  the 
rum,  and  all  kinds  of  provisions,  without  paying  a  farthing  for 
them  ;  this  hurricane  which  destroyed  every  thing  in  its  pass- 

*  It  is  with  great  reluctance  that  truth  compels  me  to  confirm  the 
horrid  depredations  committed  by  the  English  army  in  their  progress 
through  many  parts  of  America.     Much  has  been  said  on  this  subject, 
both  in  and  out  of  parliament,  but  I  am  sorry  to  say,  that  future  histo 
rians  of  this  unhappy  war,  will  find  the  fact  too  well  established  to  re 
fuse  a  decisive  verdict.     Happy  if  the  result  may  tend  henceforth  to  al 
leviate  the  miseries  of  mankind,  and  mitigate  the  horrors  of  a  civil  con 
test.     The  wife  of  an  Englishman,  one  of  the  principal  merchants  of 
Philadelphia,  having  retired  with  her  family  to  the  neighbourhood  of 
Mountholsy  in  the  Jerseys,  assured  me,  that  she  found  the  country  in 
general  well  affected  to  the  English,  until  the  arrival  of  their  army, 
whose  indiscriminate  and  wanton  enormities  soon  alienated  their  most 
zealous  friends,  for  even  the  officers  were  contaminated  with  the  insa 
tiable  spirit  of  revenge  and  plunder.     Among  various  anecdotes,  she 
related  to  me  the  circumstance  of  the  cruel  treatment  of  a  lady  of  her 
acquaintance,  who  was  devoted  to  the  British  interest,  and  gave  up  her 
house  with  exultation  to  some  .officers  of  Clinton's  army  in  their  re 
treat  from  Philadelphia.     But  not  only  was  her  zeal  repaid  with  insult 
and  her  own  house  plundered  ;  she  had  the  mortification  to  see  it 
made  the  receptacle  of  the  pillage  of  her  poorer  neighbours.  Observing 
some  of  the  officers  make  frequent  excursions,  and  return,  followed  by 
'soldiers,  laden  with  various  articles,  she  had  at  length  the  curiosity  to 
pass  into  the  garden,  and  looking  through  the  window,  saw  four  of 
them,  and  the  Chaplain,  emptying  a  sack  containing  stockings,  shirts, 
shifts,   counterpanes,   sheets,   spoons,  and  women's  trinkets.     The 
booty  was  regularly  shared,  and  the  distributor  of  these  unhallowed 
spoils,  to  her  utter  astonishment  and  horror,  was  no  other  than  the 
minister  of  virtue  and  religion.     The  detail  of  this  war  is  a  history  of 
such  iniquity  :  was  it  possible,  therefore,  to  expect  a  more  favourable 
termination  of  it,  either  on  the  principle  of  a  Divine  Providence,  or  of 
human  conduct  '{—Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  .213 

age,  was  followed  by  a  scourge  yet  more  terrible,  a  numerous 
rabble,  under  the  title  of  Refugees  and  Loyalists,  followed  the 
army,  not  to  assist  in  the  field,  but  to  partake  of  the  plunder.* 
The  furniture  and  clothes  of  the  inhabitants  were  in  general 
the  sole  booty  left  to  satisfy  their  avidity  ;  after  they  had  emp 
tied  the  houses,  they  stript  the  proprietors ;  and  Mr.  Bird  re 
peated  with  indignation,  that  they  had  taken  from  him  by 
force,  the  very  boots  from  off  his  legs.  In  my  way  hither,  I 
had  the  satisfaction  however  of  recalling  to  mind  the  first  pu 
nishment  inflicted  on  these  robbers.  Six  miles  from  Williams- 
burgh  I  passed  near  a  place  where  two  cross  roads  intersecting 
each  other,  leave  an  open  space  ;  one  leading  to  Williams- 
burgh,  the  other  to  Jamestown.  On  the  25th  of  June,  Mon 
sieur  de  la  Fayette  here  ordered  the  vanguard  to  attack  that  of 
Lord  Cornwallis  ;  Sincoe,  who  commanded  it,  was  left  behind 
to  collect  the  cattle,  whilst  Lord  Cornwallis  was  encamping  at 
Williamsburgh,  where  he  arrived  the  preceding  evening. 
Monsieur  de  la  Fayette's  cavalry  with  some  infantry  mounted 
behind  them,  arrived  soon  enough  to  force  Sincoe  to  an  en 
gagement,  and  was  soon  after  joined  by  the  rest  of  the  Ameri 
can  light  infantry.  Sincoe  fought  with  disadvantage,  till  Lord 
Cornwallis  marching  to  his  assistance,  the  Americans  retired, 

*  The  Loyalists  no  doubt,  no  more  merit  indiscriminate  censure  than 
any  other  body  of  men  ;  the  Translator,  who  thinks  he  understands  the 
true  principles  of  liberty,  for  which  he  has  ever^been  a  zealous  and  un 
shaken  advocate,  admits,  however,  and  admires  the  virtue,  honour,  and 
steadfast  attachment  of  many  illustrious  individuals  to  a  cause,  direct 
ly  destructive  of  his  own  wishes  ;  but  with  every  fair  allowance  for  the 
violence  inseparable  from  civil  contests,  he  cannot  help  bearing  his 
testimony  to  the  wanton  outrages  committed  by  an  unprincipled  ban 
ditti  who  attached  themselves  to  the  royal  cause,  and  branded  it  with 
ruin  and  disgrace.     The  root  of  this  evil  originated  in  the  Board  of 
Loyalists  established  by  Lord  George  Germain  at  the  instigation  of 
skulking,  refugees,  who  flying  themselves,  from  the  scene  of  danger, 
took  up  their  residence  in  London,  and  were  in  the  incessant  pursuit 
of  personal  and  interested  vengeance.     He  does  not  assert  that  their 
councils  lost  America,  but  it  is  now  past  doubt,  that  they  formed  a 
strong  secondary  cause  of  precipitating  that  event,  and  of  embittering 
the  separation.     General  Clinton,  the  whole  army  at  New- York,  can 
witness  the  insolence  and  indirect  menaces  of  this  incorporated  rabble 
of  marauders,  in  the  affair  of  Captain  Huddy,  and  the  subsequent 
claim  of  the  Congress.     Had  the  war  continued,  this  imperium  in  im- 
pmomust  have  been  attended  with  the  most  fatal  consequences  ;  this 
illiberal  narrow  minded  set  of  men,  became  the  spies  and  censors  of 
British  policy,  and  British  conduct,  and  the  commander-in-chief  him 
self,  was  struck  with  horror  at  their  unenlightened,  blood-thirsty  tribu 
nal, — Tram. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

after  having  killed  or  wounded  near  150  men,  with  the  loss 
only  of  seven  or  eight.  Colonel  Butler  an  American  officer, 
who  commanded  a  battalion  of  light  infantry,  and  Colonel 
Galvan,*  a  French  officer,  who  commanded  another,  distin 
guished  themselves  very  much  on  this  occasion.  The  recol 
lection  of  this  event,  the  presage  of  that  success  which  crown 
ed  our  campaign,  employed  my  thoughts  so  much  the  more 
agreeably  the  whole  evening,  as  we  had  taken  up  our  lodgings 
in  a  good  inn,  where  we  were  served  with  an  excellent  supper, 
composed  chiefly  of  sturgeon,  and  I  had  two  kinds  of  fish,  at 
least  as  good  in  Virginia  as  in  Europe,  but  which  make  their 
appearance  only  in  the  spring. 

The  next  morning  I  had  an  enjoyment  of  another  kind.     I 
rose  with  the  sun,  and  whilst  breakfast  was  preparing,  took  a 
walk  round  the  house  ;  the  birds  were  heard  on  every  side,  but 
my  attention  was  chiefly  attracted  by  a  very  agreeable  song, 
which  appeared  to  proceed  from  a  neighbouring  tree.     I  ap 
proached  softly,  and  perceived  it  to  be  a  mocking  bird,  salu 
ting  the  rising  sun.     At  first  I  was  afraid  of  frightening  it,  but 
my  presence  on  the  contrary  gave  it  pleasure,  for  apparently 
delighted  at  having  an  auditor,  it  sung  better  than  before,  arid 
its  emulation  seemed  to  increase,  when  it  perceived  a  couple 
of  dogs,  which  followed  me,  draw  near  to  the  tree  on  which 
it  was  perched.     It  kept  hopping  incessantly  from  branch  to 
branch,  still  continuing  its  song,  for  this  extraordinary  bird  is 
not  less  remarkable  for  its  agility,  than  its  charming  notes  ;  it 
keeps  perpetually  rising  and  sinking,  so  as  to  appear  not  less 
the  favourite  of  Terpsichore,  than  Polihymnia.     This  bird  can 
not  certainly  be  reproached  with  fatiguing  its  auditors,  for  no 
thing  can  be  more  varied  than  its  song,  of  which  it  is  impos 
sible  to  give  an  imitation,  or  even  to  furnish  any  adequate  idea. 
As  it  had  every  reason  to  be  contented  with  my  attention,  it 
concealed  from  me  no  one  of  its  talents  ;  and  one  would  have 
thought,  that  after  having  delighted  me  with  a  concert,  it  was 
desirous  of  entertaining  me  with  a  comedy.     It  began  to  coun 
terfeit  different  birds  ;   those  which  it  imitated  the  most  natu 
rally,  at  least  to  a  stranger,  were  the  jay,  the  raven,  the  cardi 
nal,  and  the  lapwing.  f     It  appeared  desirous  of  retaining  me 
near  it,  for  after  having  listened  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  on 


*  The  same  who  afterwards  shot  himself  at  Philadelphia.  See  pre 
vious  notes.  —  Trans. 

t  Or  rather  the  painted  plover,  which  is  the  lapwing  of  America. 
It  differs  from  ours,  by  its  plumage,  mixt  with  grey,  white  and  yellow 
gilt  ;  it  differs  also  a  little  in  its  song,  but  it  has  the  shape  and  man 
ners.  and  is  absolutely  the  same  species. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.      ^15 

my  return  to  the  house,  it  followed  me,  flying  from  tree  to  tree, 
always  singing,  sometimes  its  natural  song,  at  others,  those 
which  it  had  learned  in  Virginia,  and  in  its  travels  ;  for  this 
bird  is  one  of  those  which  change  climate,  although  it  some 
times  appears  here  during  the  winter.  As  the  next  day's  jour 
ney  was  to  be  longer  than  that  of  the  preceding  one,  we  left, 
New-Kent  court-house  before  eight  o'clock  and  rode  twenty 
miles  to  Newcastle,  where  I  resolved  to  give  our  horses  two 
hour's  repose  ;  the  road  was  not  so  level  as  that  we  had  travel 
led  the  day  before,  and  was  rendered  more  agreeable  by  being 
diversified  with  some  little  hillocks.  From  the  top  of  them 
you  had  a  view  to  the  distance  of  some  miles,  and  at  times  one 
might  perceive  Pamunkey  river,  which  runs  at  the  bottom  of 
a  deep  valley,  covered  with  wood.  As  you  approach  New 
castle,  the  country  becomes  more  gay.  This  little  capital  of 
a  small  district,  contains  twenty-five  or  thirty  houses,  some  of 
which  are  pretty  enough.  When  our  horses  were  reposed, 
and  the  heat  already  troublesome  in  the  middle  of  the  day, 
was  a  little  abated,  we  continued  our  journey,  that  we  might 
arrive,  before  dark,  at  Hanover  court-house,  from  which  we 
were  yet  sixteen  miles.  The  country  through  which  we  pass 
ed  is  one  of  the  finest  of  lower  Virginia.  There  are  many 
well  cultivated  estates,  and  handsome  houses,  among  others, 
one  belonging  to  Mr.  Jones,  situated  near  the  road,  two  miles 
from  Newcastle,  of  a  very  elegant  appearance,  which,  we  were 
informed,  was  furnished  with  infinite  taste,  and  what  is  still 
more  uncommon  in  America,  that  it  was  embellished  with  a 
garden,  laid  out  in  the  English  style.*  It  is  even  pretended, 
that  this  kind  of  park,  through  which  the  river  flows,  yields  not 
in  beauty  to  those,  the  model  of  which  the  French  have  re 
ceived  from  England,  and  are  now  imitating  with  such  suc- 
cess.f 


*  The  author  has  since  seen  this  garden,  which  answers  the  descrip 
tion  given,  and  is  really  very  elegant. 

t  The  gardens  I  have  hitherto  seen  in  France  professedly  laid  out 
on  the  English  model,  are  with  great  deference  to  the  author,  but  very 
unsuccessful  Imitations  of  the  English  style  ;  those  of  the  Comte  de 
Artois  at  Bagatelle,  and  of  the  Duke  of  Orleans  at  Mousseaux  near 
Paris,  are  indeed  no  imperfect  imitations  of  Mr.  Sterling's  in  the  co 
medy  of  the  Clandestine  Marriage,  of  the  Spaniard's  at  Harnpstead, 
of  Bagnigge-wells,  or  a  Common  Councilman's  retreat  upon  the 
Wandsworth  road.  They  present  a  fantastic,  and  crowded  groupe  of 
Chinese  pagodas,  gothic  ruins,  immoveable  windmills,  molehill-mounts, 
thirty  grass  patches,  dry  bridges,  pigmy  serpentines,  cockleshell  cas 
cades,  and  stagnant  duck-pools.  The  gardens  of  the  Thuilleries  and 
Marly,  with  their  undisguised,  artificial  labours,  are  at  least  noble. 


216  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

Three  miles  from  Hanover,  there  are  two  roads,  that  which 
we  were  to  follow  winds  a  little  towards  the  north,  and  ap 
proaches  the  Parnunkey.  We  arrived  before  sunset  and  alight 
ed  at  a  tolerable  handsome  inn ;  a  very  large  saloon  and  a  co 
vered  portico,  are  destined  to  receive  the  company  who  assem 
ble  every  three  months  at  the  court-house,  either  on  private 
or  public  affairs.  This  asylum  is  the  more  necessary,  as  there 
are  no  other  houses  in  the  neighbourhood.  Travellers  make 
use  of  these  establishments,  which  are  indispensable  in  a  coun 
try  so  thinly  inhabited,  that  the  houses  are  often  at  the  distance 
of  two  or  three  miles  from  each  other.  Care  is  generally  taken 
to  place  the  court-house  .in  the  centre  of  the  county.  As  there 
are  a  great  many  counties  in  Virginia,  they  are  seldom  more 
than  six  or  seven  leagues  diameter;  thus  every  man  can  return 
home  after  he  has  finished  his  affairs. 

The  county  of  Hanover,  as  well  as  that  of  New-Kent,  had 
still  reason  to  remember  the  passage  of  the  English.  Mr. 
Tilghman,  our  landlord,  though  he  lamented  his  misfortune  in 
having  lodged  and  boarded  Lord  Cornwallis  and  his  retinue, 
without  his  Lordship's  having  made  him  the  least  recompense, 
could  not  yet  help  laughing  at  the  fright  which  the  unexpect 
ed  arrival  of  Tarleton  spread  among  a  considerable  number  of 
gentlemen,  who  had  come  to  hear  the  news,  and  were  assem 
bled  in  the  court-house.  A  negro  on  horseback  came  full  gal 
lop,  to  let  them  know  that  Tarleton  was  not  above  three  miles 
off.  The  resolution  of  retreating  was  soon  taken,  but  the  alarm 
was  so  sudden,  and  the  confusion  so  great,  that  every  one 
mounted  the  first  horse  he  could  find,  so  that  few  of  those  cu 
rious  gentlemen  returned  upon  their  own  horses.  The  Eng 
lish,  who  came  from  Westover,  had  passed  the  Chilkahominy 
at  Button's  bridge,  and  directed  their  march  towards  the  South 
Anna,  which  M.  de  la  Fayette  had  put  between  them  and  him 
self. 

Mr.  Tilghman  having  had  time  to  renew  his  provisions  since 
the  retreat  of  Lord  Cornwallis,  we  supped  very  well,  and  had 
the  company  of  Mr.  Lee,  brother  to  Colonel  Henry  Lee  ;* 

. '       •!• 

magnificent,  and  useful ;  their  terraces  are  grand,  and  their  lofty  Bcr- 
ceaus  beautiful,  and  well  adapted  to  the  climate. —  Trans. 

*  Colonel  Harry  Lee  is  a  smart,  active  young  man,  first  cousin  to 
Mr.  Arthur  Lee,  and  Mr.  William  Lee,  late  alderman  of  London. 
He  rendered  very  essential  services  to  his  country,  particularly  in  the 
southern  war.  His  corps  was  mounted  on  remarkably  fine,  high- 
priced  horses,  mostly  half  blood  English  stallions,  and  officered  prin 
cipally  by  his  own  family  and  relations.  Had  the  war  continued,  there- 
is  every  reason  to  believe  that  the  American  cavalry  would  have  taken 
some  consistence,  and  have  become  very  formidable  in  the  field  ;  Mr. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  i>lT 

who  long  commanded  a  legion,  and  often  distinguished  himself, 
particularly  in  Carolina.*     We  set  out  at  nine  the  next  morn 
ing,  after  haying  breakfasted  much  better  than  our  horses, 
who  had  nothing  but  oats,  the  country  being  so  destitute  of 
forage,  that  it  was  not  possible  to  find  a  truss  of  hay,  or  a  few 
leaves  of  Indian  corn,  though  we  had  sought  for  it  two  miles 
round.     Three  miles  and  a  half  from  Hanover  we  crossed  the 
South  Anna  on  a  wooden  bridge.     I  observed  that  the  river 
was  deeply  embanked,  and  from  the  nature  of  the  soil  conclu 
ded  it  was  the  same  during  a  great  part  of  its  course  :   it  ap 
pears  to  me  therefore  that  would  have  been  a  good  defence,  if 
Monsieur  de  la  Fayette,  who  passed  it  higher  up,  had  arrived 
in  time  to  destroy  the  bridge.     On  the  left  side  of  the  river  the 
ground  rises,  and  you  mount  a  pretty  high  hill,  the  country  is 
barren,  and  we  travelled  almost  always  in  the  woods,  till  one 
o'clock,  when  we  arrived  at  Offly,  and  alighted  at  General  Nel 
son's,  formerly  governor  of  Virginia.     I  had  got  acquainted 
with  him  during  the  expedition  to  York,  at  which  critical  mo 
ment  he  was  governor,  and  conducted  himself  with  the  cou 
rage  of  a  brave  soldier,  and  the  zeal  of  a  good  citizen.     At 
the  time  when  the  English  armies  were  carrying  desolation 
into  the  heart  of  his  country,  and  our  troops  arrived  unexpect 
edly  to  succour  and  revenge  it,  he  was  compelled  to  exert  every 
means,  and  to  call  forth  every  possible  resource,  to  assist  Mon 
sieur  de  la  Fayette  to  make  some  resistance ;  and  furnish  Ge 
neral  Washington  with  horses,  carriages,  and  provisions ;  but 
I  am  sorry  to  add,  what  will  do  but  little  honour  to  Virginia,  that 
the  only  recompense  of  his  labours  was  the  hatred  of  a  great 
part  of  his  fellow-citizens.     At  the  first  assembly  of  the  pro 
vince,  held  after  the  campaign,  he  experienced  from  them  neither 
the  satisfaction  he  had  a  right  to  expect,  at  being  freed  from 
servitude,  nor  that  emulation  which  is  the  general  consequence 


Tarleton  received  many  severe  checks  in  his  exploits  from  the  corps 
under  Colonel  Washington,  and  that  of  Colonel  Harry  Lee.  Towards 
the  close  of  the  war,  he  had  to  encounter  an  enemy  very  different  from 
flying  militia,  and  scattered  bodies  of  broken,  half  disciplined  infantry, 
of  whom  slaughter  may  be  service,  but  conquest  no  honour. —  Trans. 
*  Lord  Cornwallis  was  unquestionably  the  English  general  whose 
courage,  talents  and  activity,  occasioned  the  greatest  loss  to  the  Ame 
ricans  ;  it  is  not  astonishing  therefore  he  should  not  have  inspired  them 
with  sentiments  similar  to  those  of  his  own  troops,  whose  attachment, 
and  admiration  of  his  character,  were  unbounded.  Yet  they  never  ac 
cused  him  of  rapine,  nor  even  of  interested  views,  and  the  complaints 
of  Mr.  Tilghman  only  prove  the  sad  consequences  of  a  war,  in  the  course 
of  which  the  English  suffered  more  from  want,  in  the  midst  of  their 

28 


218  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA, 

of  success ;  but  instead  of  these  Sentiments,  so  natural  in  suci* 
circumstances,  a  general  discontent,  arising  from  the  necessity 
under  which  he  had  often  laboured,  of  pressing  their  horses, 
carriages  and  forage.     Those  laws  and  customs  which  would 
have  ceased  to  exist  by  the  conquest  of  the  province,  were  put 
in  force  against  its  defender,  and  General  Nelson,  worn  out  at 
length  by  the  fatigues  of  the  campaign,  but  still  more  by  the 
ingratitude  of  his  fellow-citizens,  resigned  the  place  of  govern 
or,  which  he  had  held  for  six  months,  but  not  without  enjoying 
the  satisfaction  of  justifying  his  conduct,  and  of  seeing  his 
countrymen  pardon  the  momentary  injuries  he  had  done  their 
laws,  by  endeavouring  to  save  the  state.     If  to  the  character 
I  have  just  given  of  General  Nelson,  I  should  add,  that  he  is  a 
good  and  gallant  man,  in  every  possible  situation  of  life,  and 
has  ever  behaved  with  the  utmost  politeness  to  the  French,  you 
will  be  surprised  that  I  should  go  to  visit  him  in  his  absence, 
like  Mathwin  in  the  comedy  of  Rose  and  Colas,  for  though  I 
knew  he  was  not  at  home,  as  I  had  met  him  near  Williams- 
burgh,  where  he  was  detained  by  public  business,  the  visit  I 
intended  to  pay  him  formed  a  part  of  my  journey  I  undertook 
— besides  that  I  was  desirous  of  seeing  his  family,  particularly 
his  younger  brother,  Mr.  William  Nelson,  with  whom  I  was 
intimately  connected  at  Williamsburgh,  where  he  passed  the 
greatest  part  of  the  winter.     Offly  is  far  from  corresponding 
with  the  riches  of  General  Nelson,  or  with  his  high  considera 
tion  in  Virginia ;  it  is  but  a  moderate  plantation,  where  he  has 
contented  himself  with  erecting  such  buildings  as  are  neces 
sary  for  the  improvement  of  his  lands,  and  for  the  habitation 
of  his  overseers ;  his  general  residence  is  at  York,  but  that  he 
was  obliged  to  abandon :   and  Offly  being  beyond  the  South 
Anna,  and  situated  far  back  in  the  country,  he  thought  that  this 
lonely  house  would  be  at  least  a  safe  retreat  for  his  family ;  it 
was  not  secure  however  from  the  visits  of  Lord  Cornwallis,  who, 
in  his  peregrinations  through  Virginia,  advanced  even  so  far, 
though  without  doing  much  mischief.     In  the  absence  of  the 
general,  his  mother  and  wife  received  us  with  all  the  polite- 


success,  than  in  their  disasters  ;  the  former  carrying  them  far  from  the 
fleet,  and  the  latter  obliging  them  to  approach  it.  But  the  most  pain 
ful  of  these  consequences  was  the  necessity  which  compelled  a  man 
of  my  Lord  Cornwallis'  birth  and  character,  to  conduct,  rather  than 
command,  a  numerous  band  of  traitors  and  robbers,  which  English 
policy  decorated  with  the  name  of  Loyalists.  This  rabble  preceded 
the  troops  in  plunder,  taking  special  care  never  to  follow  them  in  dan 
ger.  The  pro.gfess  was  marked  by  fire,  devastation,  and  outrages  of 
every  kind  ;  they  ravaged  some  part  of  America  it  is  true,  but  ruined 
England,  by  inspiring  her  enemies  with  an  irreconcileable  hatred. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  219 

ness,  ease,  and  cordiality  natural  to  his  family.  But  as  in 
America  the  ladies  are  never  thought  sufficient  to  do  the  ho 
nours  of  the  house,  five  or  six  Nelsons  were  assembled  to  re 
ceive  us;  among  others,  the  Secretary  Nelson,  uncle  to  the  ge 
neral,  with  his  two  sons,  and  two  of  the  general's  brothers. 
These  young  men  were  all  married,  and  several  of  them  were 
accompanied  by  their  wives  and  children,  all  called  Nelson, 
and  distinguished  only  by  their  Christian  names,*  so  that  during 
the  two  days  which  I  passed  in  this  truly  patriarchal  house,  it 
was  impossible  for  me  to  find  out  their  degrees  of  relationship. 
When  I  say  that  we  passed  two  days  in  this  house,  it  may  be 
understood  in  the  most  literal  sense,  for  the  weather  was  so 
bad,  there  was  no  possibility  of  stirring  out.  The  house  be 
ing  neither  convenient  nor  spacious,  company  assembled  either 
in  the  parlour  or  saloon,  especially  the  men,  from  the  hour  of 
breakfast,  to  that  of  bed-time,  but  the  conversation  was  always 
agreeable  and  well  supported.  If  you  were  desirous  of  diversify 
ing  the  scene,  there  were  some  good  French  and  English  authors 
at  hand.  An  excellent  breakfast  at  nine  in  the  morning,  a 
sumptuous  dinner  at  two  o'clock,  tea  and  punch  in  the  after 
noon,  and  an  elegant  little  supper,  divided  the  day  most  hap 
pily,  for  those  whose  stomachs  were  never  unprepared.  It  is 
worth  observing,  that  on  this  occasion,  where  fifteen  or  twenty 
people,  (four  of  whom  were  strangers  to  the  family  or  coun 
try,)  were  assembled  together,  and  by  bad  weather  forced  to 
stay  within  doors,  not  a  syllable  was  mentioned  about  play. 
How  many  parties  would  with  us  have  been  the  consequence 
of  such  obstinate  bad  weather  ?  But  in  America,  music,  draw 
ing,  public  reading,  and  the  work  of  the  ladies,  are  resources 
as  yet  unknown,  though  it  is  to  be  hoped  they  will  not  long 
neglect  to  cultivate  them;  for  nothing  but  study  was  wanting  ^ 
to  a  young  Miss  Tolliver*  who  sung  some  airs,  the  words  of 
which  were  English,  and  the  music  Italian.  Her  charming 
voice,  and  the  artless  simplicity  of  her  singing,  were  a  substi 
tute  for  taste,  if  not  taste  itself;  that  natural  taste,  always  sure, 
when  confined  within  just  limits,  and  when  timid  in  its  weak 
ness,  it  has  not  been  altered,  or  spoiled  by  false  precepts  and 
bad  examples. 

Miss  Tolliver  has  attended  her  sister,  Mrs.  William  Nelson, 
to  Offly,  who  had  just  miscarried,  and  kept  her  bed.     She  was 

*  The  French  in  general  assume  the  surname,  by  which  they  choose 

-to  be  distinguished  in  the  world,  so  that  the  name  which,  with  us,  is  a 

real  bond  of  affection,  is  soon  lost  with  them.     I  was  long  acquainted 

with  four  brothers  in  France,  without  knowing  they  were  related  t» 

each  other. — Trams. 


320  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

brought  up  in  the  middle  of  the  woods  by  her  father,  a  great  fox- 
hunter,  consequently  could  have  learned  to  sing  from  the  birds 
only,  in  the  neighbourhood,  when  the  howling  of  the  dogs  per 
mitted  her  to  hear  them.  She  is  an  agreeable  figure,  as  well  as 
Mrs.  Nelson  her  sister,  though  less  pretty  than  a  third  daughter, 
who  remained  with  her  father.  These  young  ladies  came  often 
to  Williamsburgh  to  attend  the  balls,  where  they  appeared  as 
well  dressed  as  the  ladies  of  the  town,  and  always  remarkable 
for  their  decency  of  behaviour.  The  young  military  gentle 
men,  on  the  other  hand,  had  conceived  a  great  affection  for 
Mr.  Tolliver  their  father,  and  took  the  trouble  sometimes  to 
ride  over  to  breakfast  and  talk  with  him  of  the  chase.  The 
young  ladies,  who  appeared  from  time  to  time,  never  inter 
rupted  the  conversation.  These  pretty  nymphs  more  timid 
and  wild  than  those  of  Diana,  though  they  did  not  conduct  the 
chase,  inspired  the  taste  for  it  into  the  youth  :  they  knew  how 
ever  how  to  defend  themselves  from  fox-hunters,  without  de 
stroying,  by  their  arrows,  those  who  had  the  presumption  to 
look  at  them. 

After  this  little  digression,  which  requires  some  indulgence, 
I  should  be  at  a  loss  for  a  transition  to  an  old  magistrate, 
whose  white  locks,  noble  figure,  and  stature,  which  was  above 
the  common  size,  commanded  respect  and  veneration.  Secre 
tary  Nelson,  to  whom  this  character  belongs,  owes  this  title 
to  the  place  he  occupied  under  the  English  government.  In 
Virginia  the  secretary,  whose  office  it  was  to  preserve  the  re 
gisters  of  all  public  acts,  was,  by  his  place,  a  member  of  the 
council,  of  which  the  governor  was  the  chief.  Mr.  Nelson, 
who  held  this  office  for  thirty  years,  saw  the  morning  of  that, 
bright  day  which  began  to  shine  upon  his  country ;  he  saw 
too  the  storms  arise  which  threatened  its  destruction,  though 
he  neither  endeavoured  to  collect,  or  to  foment  them. 

Too  far  advanced  in  age  to  desire  a  revolution,  too  prudent 
to  check  this  great  event,  if  necessary,  and  too  faithful  to  his 
countrymen  to  separate  his  interests  from  theirs,  he  chose  the 
crisis  of  this  alteration,  to  retire  from  public  affairs.  Thus  did 
he  opportunely  quit  the  theatre,  when  new  pieces  demanded 
fresh  actors,  and  took  his  seat  among  the  spectators,  content  to 
offer  up  his  wishes  for  the  success  of  the  drama,  and  to  ap 
plaud  those  who  acted  well  their  part.  But  in  the  last  cam 
paign,  chance  produced  him  on  the  scene,  and  made  him  un 
fortunately  famous.  He  lived  at  York,  where  he  had  built  a 
very  handsome  house,  from  which  neither  European  taste  nor 
luxury  was  excluded ;  a  chimney-piece  and  some  bass-reliefs  of 
very  fine  marble,  exquisitely  sculptured,  were  particularly  ad 
mired,  when  fate  conducted  Lord  Cornwallis  to  this  town  to 
be  disarmed,  as  well  as  his  till  then  victorious  troops.  Secre- 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  821 

lury  Nelson  did  not  think  it  necessary  to  fly  from  the  English, 
to  whom  his  conduct  could  not  have  made  him  disagreeable, 
nor  have  furnished  any  just  motive  of  suspicion.  He  was  well 
received  by  the  general,  who  established  his  head-quarters  in 
his  house,  which  was  built  on  an  eminence,  near  the  most  im 
portant  fortifications,  and  in  the  most  agreeable  situation  of 
the  town.  It  was  the  first  object  which  struck  the  sight  as 
you  approached  the  town,  but  instead  of  travellers,  it  soon 
drew  the  attention  of  our  bombardiers  and  carmoniers,  and 
was  almost  entirely  destroyed.  Mr.  Nelson  lived  in  it  at  the 
time  our  batteries  tried  their  first  shot  and  killed  one  of  his 
negroes  at  a  little  distance  from  him ;  so  that  Lord  Cornwallis 
was  soon  obliged  to  seek  another  asylum.  But  what  asylum 
could  be  found  for  an  old  man,  deprived  of  the  use  of  his  legs 
by  the  gout .?  But,  above  all,  what  asylum  could  defend  him 
against  the  cruel  anguish  a  father  must  feel  at  being  besieged 
by  his  own  children ;  for  he  had  two  in  the  American  army. 
So  that  every  shot,  whether  fired  from  the  town,  or  from  the 
trenches,  might  prove  equally  fatal  to  him ;  I  was  witness  to 
the  cruel- anxiety  of  one  of  these  young  men,  when  after  the 
flag  was  sent  to  demand  his  father,  he  kept  his  eyes  fixed  upon 
the  gate  of  the  town,  by  which  it  was  to  come  out,  and  seemed 
to  expect  his  own  sentence  in  the  answer.  Lord  Cornwallis? 
had  too  much  humanity  to  refuse  a  request  so  just,  nor  can  I 
recollect,  without  emotion,  the  moment  in  which  I  saw  this  old 
gentleman  alight  at  General  Washington's.  He  was  seated, 
the  fit  of  the  gout  not  having  yet  left  him ;  and  whilst  we  stood 
around  him,  he  related  to  us,  with  a  serene  countenance,  what 
had  been  the  effect  of  our  batteries,  and  how  much  his  house 
had  suffered  from  the  first  shot. 

The  tranquillity  which  has  succeeded  these  unhappy  times, 
by  giving  him  leisure  to  reflect  upon  his  losses,  has  not  embit 
tered  the  recollection ;  he  lives  happily  on  one  of  his  planta 
tions,  where,  in  less  than  six  hours,  he  can  assemble  thirty  of 
his  children,  grand-children,  nephews,  nieces,  &c.  amounting 
in  all  to  seventy,  the  whole  inhabiting  Virginia.  The  rapid 
increase  of  his  own  family  justifies  what  he  told  me  of  the 
population  in  general,  of  which,  from  the  offices  he  has  held 
all  his  life,  he  must  have  it  in  his  power  to  form  a  very  accurate 
judgment.  In  1742  the  people  subject  to  pay  taxes  in  the 
T^te  of  Virginia,  that  is  to  say,  the  white  males  above  sixteen, 
and  the  male  and  female  blacks  of  the  same  age,  amounted 
only  to  the  number  of  63,000 ;  by  his  account  they  now  ex- 
*ceed  160,000.* 


*  This  calculation  is  much  below  that  given  by  other  writers,  and  I 
have  reason  to  believe  that  it  is  considerablv  below  the  mark. — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

After  passing  two  days  very  agreeably  with  this  interesting 
family,  we  left  them  the  12th  at  ten  in  the  morning,  accompa 
nied  by  the  secretary,  and  five  or  six  other  Nelsons,  who  con 
ducted  us  to  Little  River  Bridge,  a  small  creek  on  the  road 
about  five  miles  from  Offly.  There  we  separated,  and  having 
rode  about  eleven  miles  farther  through  woods,  and  over  a 
barren  country,  we  arrived  at  one  o'clock  at  Willis'  inn  or  ordi 
nary  ;  for  the  inns  which  in  the  other  provinces  of  America 
are  known  by  the  name  of  taverns,  or  public  houses,  are  in 
Virginia  called  ordinaries.  This  consisted  of  a  little  house 
placed  in  a  solitary  situation  in  the  middle  of  the  woods,  not 
withstanding  which  we  there  found  a  great  deal  of  company. 
As  soon  as  I  alighted,  I  inquired  what  might  be  the  reason  of 
this  numerous  assembly,  and  was  informed  it  was  a  cock- 
match.  This  diversion  is  much  in  fashion  in  Virginia,  where 
the  English  customs  are  more  prevalent  than  in  the  rest  of 
America.  When  the  principal  promoters  of  this  diversion, 
propose  to  match  their  champions,  they  take  great  care  to  an 
nounce  it  to  the  public,  and  although  there  are  neither  posts, 
nor  regular  conveyances,  this  important  news  spreads  with 
such  facility,  that  the  planters,  for  thirty  or  forty  miles  round, 
attend,  some  with  cocks,  but  all  with  money  for  betting,  which 
is  sometimes  very  considerable.  They  are  obliged  to  bring 
their  own  provisions,  as  so  many  people  with  good  appetites 
could  not  possibly  be  supplied  with  them  at  the  inn.  As  for 
lodgings,  one  large  room  for  the  whole  company,  with  a  blan 
ket  for  each  individual,  is  sufficient  for  such  hearty  country 
men,  who  are  not  more  delicate  about  the  conveniences  of  life, 
than  the  choice  of  their  amusements. 

Whilst  our  horses  were  feeding,  we  had  an  opportunity  of 
seeing  a-  battle.  The  preparation  took  up  a  great  deal  of 
time ;  they  arm  their  cocks  with  long  steel  spurs,  very  sharp, 
and  cut  off  a  part  of  their  feathers,  as  if  they  meant  to  de 
prive  them  of  their  armour.  The  stakes  were  very  considera 
ble  ;  the  money  of  the  parties  was  deposited  in  the  hands  of 
one  of  the  principal  persons,  and  I  felt  a  secret  pleasure  in 
observing  that  it  was  chiefly  French.*  I  know  not  which  is 

*  The  prodigious  quantity  of  French  money  brought  into  Amerij 
by  their  fleets  and  armies,  and  the  loans  made  to  congress,  toj 
with  the  vast  return  of  dollars  from  the  Havana,  and  the  Spanish, 
tuguese,  and  English  gold  which  found  its  way  into  the  country  from 
the  British  lines,  rendered  specie  very  plentiful  towards  the  conclusion 
of  the  war  ;  and  the  arrival  of  the  army  of  the  Comte  de  Rocham-  n_ 
beau  was  particularly  opportune,  as  it  happened  at  the  very  distressing- 
crisis  of  the  death  of  the  paper  currency.  The  French  money  alone 
in  circulation  m  the  United  .States,  in  the  vear  1782  was  estimated. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA, 

the  most  astonishing,  the  insipidity  of  such  diversion,  or  the 
stupid  interest  with  which  it  animates  the  parties.  This  pas 
sion  appears  almost  innate  among  the  English,  for  the  Virgi 
nians  are  yet  English  in  many  respects.  Whilst  the  interested 
parties  animated  the  cocks  to  battle,  a  child  of  fifteen,  who 
was  near  me,  kept  leaping  for  joy,  and  crying,  Oh !  ^t  is  a 
charming  diversion. 

We  had  yet  seven  or  eight  and  twenty  miles  to  ride,  to  the 
only  inn  where  it  was  possible  to  stop,  before  we  reached  Mr. 
Jefferson's ;  for  Mr.  de  Rochambeau,  who  had  travelled  the 
same  road  but  two  months  before,  cautioned  me  against  sleep- 


after  very  accurate  calculations,  at  thirty -five  millions  of  livres,  or  near 
a  million  and  a  half  sterling.  Although  it  is  impossible  to  ascertain 
with  any  degree  of  precision  the  quantity  of  British  money  circulating 
in  the  revolted  part  of  the  continent,  under  the  forms  of  Spanish,  Por 
tugal,  and  English  coin,  yet  some  general  idea  may  be  entertained 
that  the  quantity  was  very  considerable,  from  the  following  extract 
from  the  seventh  report  of  the  commissioners  of  public  accounts,  "  We 
obtained  by  requisition  from  the  office  of  the  Paymaster-General  of 
the  forces,  an  account  of  the  money  issued  to  Messrs.  Hartley  & 
Drummond,  pursuant  to  his  Majesty's  warrants,  for  the  extraordinary 
services  of  his  Majesty's  forces  serving  in  North -America  from  the 
1st  of  January,  1776,  to  the  31st  of  December,  1781.  This  sum 
amounts  to  10,083,863Z.  2s.  6d. — There  are  two  ways  by  which  this 
money  goes  from  these  remitters  into  the  hands  of  their  agents  :  the 
one  is  by  bills  drawn  by  them  on  the  remitters,  which  bills  they  receive 
the  value  for  in  America,  and  the  remitters  discharge  when  presented 
to  them  in  London  ;  the  other  is  by  sending  out  actual  cash,  whenever 
it  becomes  necessary  to  support  the  exchange,  by  increasing  the  quan 
tity  of  current  cash  in  the  hands  of  the  agents." — Now  the  votes  of 
parliament  will  show  the  reader,  the  vast  sums  annually  granted  to 
Messrs.  Hartley  &,  Drummond,  for  the  specific  purpose  of  purchasing 
Spanish  and  Portugal  gold  alone,  to  supply  "  this  quantity  of  current 
cash."  Besides  the  vast  exportation  of  English  guineas  ;  nor  is  it  to 
be  doubted  that  a  great  proportion  of  this  supply  found  its  way  into 
the  heart  of  the  United  States,  in  return  for  provisions,  in  payment  of 
their  captive  armies,  &,c.  &,c.  The  British  navy  too  is  not  included 
in  this  estimate.  Great  sums,  it  is  true,  returned  to  Britain  directly 

lirectly  for  goods,  &c.,  but  much  specie  remained  incontestibly 
country.  With  respect  to  the  Spanish  dollars  from  the  Havana 

the  West-Indies,  no  just  calculation  can  be  formed,  but  the 
amount  must  have  been  very  considerable,  as  they  appeared  to  me  to 
^circulate  in  tfie  proportion  of  at  least  three  or  four  to  one  of  all  the 
ather  coined  specie. — When  the  translator  added  this  note,  he  had 
not  seen  Lord  Sheffield's  observations  on  the  subject.  In  these,  how 
ever,  he  thinks  his  lordship  discovers  deep  prejudices,  mixed  with  much 
excellent  reasoning  and  a  great  deal  of  truth. — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

ing  at  Louisa  court-house,  as  the  worst  lodging  he  had  found 
in   all  America.     This   public   house  is   sixteen   miles  from 
Willis'  ordinary.     As  he  had  given  me  a  very  forcible  descrip 
tion  not  only  of  the  house,  but  of  the  landlord,  I  had  a  curio 
sity  to  judge  of  it  by  my  own  experience.     Under  the  pre 
tence  ^f  inquiring  for  the  road,  therefore,  I  went  in,  and  ob 
served,  that  there  was  no  other  lodging  for  travellers  than  the 
apartment  of  the  landlord.     This  man,  called  Johnson,  is  be 
come  so  monstrously  fat,  that  he  cannot  move  out  of  his  arm 
chair.     He  is  a  good  humoured  fellow,  whose  manners  are  not 
very  rigid,  who  loves  good  cheer,  and  all  sorts  of  pleasure, 
insomuch  that  at  the  age  of  fifty  he  has  so  augmented  his  bulk, 
and  diminished  his  fortune,  that  by  two  opposite  principles  he 
is  near  seeing  the  termination  of  both ;  but  all  this  does  not  in 
the  least  affect  his  gaiety.     I  found  him  contented  in  his  arm 
chair,  which  serves  him  for  a  bed ;  for  it  would  be  difficult  for 
him  to  lie  down,  and  impossible  to  rise.     A  stool  supported  his 
enormous  legs,  in  which  were  large  fissures  on  each  side,  a 
prelude  to  what  must  soon  happen  to  his  belly.     A  large  ham 
and  a  bowl  of  grog  served  him  for  company,  like  a  man  re 
solved  to  die  surrounded  by  his  friends.     He  called  to  my 
mind,  in  short,  the  country  spoken  of  by  Rabelais,  where  the 
men  order  their  bellies  to  be  hooped  to  prolong  their  lives, 
and  especially  the  Abbe  who  having  exhausted  every  possible 
resource,  resolved  to  finish  his  days  by  a  great  feast,  and  in 
vited  all  the  neighbourhood  to  his  bursting. 

The  night  was  already  closed  in,  when  we  arrived  at  the 
house  of  Colonel  Boswell,  a  tall,  stout  Scotsman,  about  sixty 
years  of  age,  and  who  had  been  about  forty  years  settled  in 
America,  where,  under  the  English  government,  he  was  a  co 
lonel  of  militia.     Although  he  kept  a  kind  of  tavern,  he  ap 
peared  but  little  prepared  to  receive  strangers.     It  was  already 
late  indeed,  besides  that  this  road,  which  leads  only  to  the 
mountains,  is  little  frequented.     He  was  quietly  seated  near 
the  fire,  by  the  side  of  his  wife,  as  old,  and  almost  as  tall  as 
himself,  whom  he  distinguished  by  the  epithet  of  "  honey," 
which  in  French  corresponds  with  mon  petit  occur.     These  ho 
nest  people  received  us  cheerfully,  and  soon  called  up  their 
servants,  who  were  already  gone  to  bed.     Whilst  they  were 
preparing  supper,  we  often  heard  them  call  Rose,  Rose,  which 
at  length  brought  to  view  the  most  hideous  negress  I  ever  fllpP 
held.     Our  supper  was  rather  scanty,  but  our  breakfast  the 
next  morning  better;  we  had  ham,  butter,  fresh  eggs,   and 
coffee  by  way  of  drink  :  for  the  whiskey  or  corn-spirits  we  had 
in  the  evening,  mixt  with  water,  was  very  bad  ;  besides  that 
we  were  perfectly  reconciled  to  the  American  custom  of  drink 
ing  coifee  with  meat,  vegetables,  or  other  food. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

We  set  out  the  next  morning  at  eight  o'clock,  having  learn 
ed  nothing  in  this  house  worthy  of  remark,  except  that  notwith 
standing  the  hale  and  robust  appearance  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bos- 
well,  not  one  of  fourteen  of  their  children  had  attained  the  age 
often  years.  We  were  now  approaching  a  chain  of  mountains 
of  considerable  height,  called  the  South- West  Mountains,  be 
cause  they  are  the  first  you  meet  in  travelling  westward,  be 
fore  you  arrive  at  the  chain  known  in  France  by  the  name  of 
the  Apalachians,  and  in  Virginia  by  that  of  the  Blue  Ridge, 
North  Ridge,  and  Allegany  Mountains.  As  the  country  was 
much  covered  with  woods,  we  had  a  view  of  them  but  very 
seldom ;  and  travelled  a  long  time  without  seeing  any  habita 
tion,  at  times  greatly  perplexed  to  choose  among  the  different 
roads,  which  crossed  each  other.*  At  last  we  overtook  a  tra 
veller  who  preceded  us,  and  served  not  only  as  a  guide,  but  by 
his  company  helped  to  abridge  our  journey.  He  was  an  Irish 
man^  who  though  but  lately  arrived  in  America,  had  made 


*  The  difficulty  of  finding  the  road  in  many  parts  of  America  is  not, 
to  be  conceived  except  by  those  •  strangers  who  have  travelled  in  that 
coiintry.  The  roads,  which  are  through  the  woods,  not  being- 
kept  in  repair,  as  soon  as  one  is  in  bad  order,  another  is  made  in  the 
same  manner,  that  is,  merely  by  felling  the  trees,  and  the  whole  inte 
rior  parts  are  so  covered,  that  without  a  compass  it  is  impossible  to 
have  the  least  idea  of  the  course  you  are  steering.  The  distances  too 
are  so  uncertain,  as  in  every  country  where  they  are  not  measured, 
that  no  two  accounts  resemble  each  other.  In  the  back  parts  of  Penn 
sylvania,  Maryland,  and  Virginia,  I  have  frequently  travelled  thirty 
miles  for  ten,  though  frequently  set  right  by  passengers  and  negroes : 
but  the  great  communications  between  the  large  towns,  through  all 
the  well  inhabited  parts  of  the  continent,  are  as  practicable  and  easy 
as  in  Europe. —  Trans. 

t  An  Irishman,  the  instant  he  sets  foot  on  American  ground  be 
comes,  ipso  facto,  an  American  ;  this  was  uniformly  the  case  during 
the  whole  of  the  late  war.  Whilst  Englishmen  and  Scotsmen  were 
regarded  with  jealousy  and  distrust,  even  with  the  best  recommenda 
tion,  of  zeal  and  attachment  to  their  cause,  a  native  of  Ireland  stood 
in  need  of  no  other  certificate  than  his  dialect ;  his  sincerity  was  never 
called  in  question,  he  was  supposed  to  have  a  sympathy  of  suffering, 
and  every  voice  decided  as  it.  were  intuitively,  in  his  favour.  Indeed 
their  conduct  in  the  late  revolution  amply  justified  this  favourable  opi 
nion  ;  for  whilst  the  Irish  emigrant  was  fighting  the  battles  of  Ameri 
ca  by  sea  and  land,  the  Irish  merchants,  particularly  at  Charleston, 
Baltimore,  and  Philadelphia,  laboured  with  indefatigable  zeal,  and  at 
all  hazards,  to  promote  the  spirit  of  enterprise,  to  increase  the  wealth, 
and  maintain  the  credit  of  the  country  ;  their  purses  were  always  open, 
and  their  persons  devoted  to  the  common  cause.  On  more  than  one 
imminent  occasion,  Congress  owed  their  existence,  and  America  pos- 

29 


226  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

several  campaigns,  and  received  a  considerable  wound  in  his 
thigh  by  a  musket  ball ;  which,  though  it  could  never  be  ex 
tracted,  had  not  in  the  least  affected  either  his  health  or  gaiety. 
lie  related  his  military  exploits,  and  we  inquired  immediately 
about  the  country  which,  he  then  inhabited.  He  acquainted 
us  that  he  was  settled  in  North-Carolina,  upwards  of  eighty 
miles  from  Catawbavv,  and  were  then  300  from  the  sea.  These 
new  establishments  are  so  much  the  more  interesting,  as  by 
their  distance  from  all  commerce,  agriculture  is  their  sole  re 
source  ;  I  mean  that  patriarchal  agriculture  which  consists  in 
producing  only  what  is  sufficient  for  their  own  consumption, 
without  the  hope  of  either  sale  or  barter.  These  colonies 
therefore  must  necessarily  be  rendered  equal  to  all  their  wants. 
It  is  easy  to  conceive  that  there  is  soon  no  deficiency  of  food, 
but  it  is  also  necessary  that  their  flocks  and  their  fields  should 
furnish  them  with  clothing,  they  must  manufacture  their  own 
-jwool,  and  flax,  into  clothes  and  linen,  they  must  prepare  the 
y  hides  to  make  shoes  of  them,  &c.  &c.;*  as  to  drink,  they  are 
obliged  to  content  themselves  with  milk  and  water,  until  their 
apple-trees  are  large  enough  to  bear  fruit,  or  until  they  have 
been  able  to  procure  themselves  stills,  to  distil  their  grain. 
In  these  troublesome  times  we  should  scarcely  imagine  in  Eu 
rope,  that  nails  are  the  articles  the  most  wanted  in  these  new 
colonies  :  for  the  axe  and  the  saw  can  supply  every  other  want. 
They  contrive  however  to  erect  huts,  and  construct  roofs  with 
out  nails,  but  the  work  is  by  this  means  rendered  much  more 
tedious,  and  in  such  circumstances  every  body  knows  the  va 
lue  of  time  and  labour.  It  was  a  natural  question  to  ask  such 
a  cultivator  what  could  bring  him  four  hundred  miles  from 


sibly  her  preservation  to  the  fidelity  and  firmness  of  the  Irish.  I  had 
the  honour  of  dining  with  the  Irish  Society,  composed  of  the  steadiest 
whigs  upon  the  continent,  at  the  City  Tavern  in  Philadelphia,  on  St. 
Patrick's  day  ;  the  members  wear  a  medallion  suspended  by  a  riband, 
with  a  very  significant  device,  which  has  escaped  my  memory,  but 
\vas  so  applicable  to  the  American  revolution,  that  until  I  was  assured 
that  it  subsisted  prior  to  that  event,  and  had  a  reference  only  to  the 
oppression  of  Ireland  by  her  powerful  sister,  I  concluded  it  to  be  a 
temporary  illusion.  General  Washington,  Mr.  Dickinson,  and  other 
leading  characters  are  adopted  members  of  this  society,  having  been 
initiated  by  the  ceremony  of  an  exterior  application  of  a  whole  bottle 
of  claret  poured  upon  the  head,  and  a  generous  libation  to  liberty  and 
good  living,  of  as  many  as  the  votary  could  carry  off. —  Trans. 

*  It  is  a  natural  supposition  that  workmen  of  all  sorts  (at  least  the 
most  necessary,)  should  form  a  part  of  every  new  colony,  and  follow 
.their  particular  trade  as  the  most  beneficial  employment. — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  227 

home,  and  we  learned  from  him  that  he  carried  on  the  trade  of 
horse  selling,  the  only  commerce  of  which  his  country  was  sus 
ceptible,*  and  by  which  people  in  the  most  easy  circumstances 
endeavoured  to  augment  their  fortunes.  In  fact  these  animals 
multiply  very  fast  in  a  country  where  there  is  abundant  pas 
ture  ;  and  as  they  are  conducted  without  any  expense,  by  gra 
zing  on  the  road,  they  become  the  most  commodious  article  of 
exportation,  for  a  country  so  far  from  any  road  or  commerce. 
The  conversation  continued  and  brought  us  insensibly  to  the 
foot  of  the  mountains.  On  the  summit  of  one  of  them  we  dis 
covered  the  house  of  Mr.  Jefferson,  which  stands  pre-eminent 
in  these  retirements;  it  was  himself  who  built  it  and  preferred 
this  situation  ;  for  although  he  possessed  considerable  property 
in  the  neighbourhood,  there  was  nothing  to  prevent  him  from 
fixing  his  residence  wherever  he  thought  proper.  But  it  was  a 
debt  nature  owed  to  a  philosopher  and  a  man  of  taste,  that  in 
his  own  possessions  he  should  find  a  spot  where  he  might  best 
study  and  enjoy  her.  He  calls  his  house  Monticello,  (in  Ita 
lian,  Little  Mountain,)  a  very  modest  title,  for  it  is  situated 
upon  a  very  lofty  one,  but  which  announces  the  owner's  attach 
ment  to  the  language  of  Italy ;  and  above  all  to  the  fine  arts, 
of  which  that  country  was  the  cradle,  and  is  still  the  asylum. 
As  I  had  no  farther  occasion  for  a  guide,  I  separated  from  the 
Irishman  ;  and  after  ascending  by  a  tolerably  commodious  road, 
for  more  than  half  an  hour,  we  arrived  at  Monticello.  This 
house,  of  which  Mr.  Jefferson  was  the  architect,  and  often  one 
of  the  workmen,  is  rather  elegant,  and  in  the  Italian  taste, 
though  not  without  fault ;  it  consists  of  one  large  square  pavil- 
lion,  the  entrance  of  which  is  by  two  porticos  ornamented 
with  pillars.  The  ground  floor  consists  chiefly  of  a  very  large 
lofty  saloon,  which  is  to  be  decorated  entirely  in  the  antique 
style  :  above  it  is  a  library  of  the  same  form,  two  small  wings, 
with  only  a  ground  floor,  and  attic  story,  are  joined  to  this  pa- 
villion,  and  communicate  with  the  kitchen,  offices,  &c.  which 
will  form  a  kind  of  basement  story  over  which  runs  a  terrace. 
My  object  in  this  short  description  is  only  to  show  the  difference 
between  this,  and  the  other  houses  of  the  country  ;  for  we  may 
safely  aver,  that  Mr.  Jefferson  is  the  first  American  who  has 
consulted  the  fine  arts  to  know  how  he  should  shelter  himself 
from  the  weather.  But  it  is  on  himself  alone  I  ought  to  bestow 
my  time.  Let  me  describe  to  you  a  man,  not  yet  forty,  tall, 


*  Considerable  quantities  of  peltry  are  likewise  brought  from  the 
back  parts  of  North-Carolina  ;  and  I  have  met  with  strings  of  horses 
laden  with  that  article  passing  through  Virginia  to  Philadelphia  from 
the  distance  of  six  hundred  miles. —  Trans. 


228  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

and  with  a  mild  and  pleasing  countenance,  but  whose  mind 
and  understanding  are  ample  substitutes  for  every  exterior 
grace.  An  American,  who  without  ever  having  quitted  his 
own  country,  is  at  once  a  musician,  skilled  in  drawing,  a  geo 
metrician,  an  astronomer,  a  natural  philosopher,  legislator,  and 
statesman.  A  senator  of  America,  who  sat  for  two  years  in 
that  famous  Congress  which  brought  about  the  revolution  ;  and 
which  is  never  mentioned  without  respect,  though  unhappily 
not  without  regret :  a  governor  of  Virginia,  who  filled  this  dif 
ficult  station  during  the  invasions  of  Arnold,  of  Phillips,  and 
of  Cornwallis ;  a  philosopher,  in  voluntary  retirement  from 
the  world,  and  public  business,  because  he  loves  the  world,  in 
asmuch  only  as  he  can  flatter  himself  with  being  useful  to 
mankind;  and  the  minds  of  his  countrymen  are  not  yet  in  a 
condition  either  to  bear  the  light,  or  to  suffer  contradiction. 
A  mild  and  amiable  wife,  charming  children,  of  whose  educa 
tion  he  himself  takes  charge,  a  house  to  embellish,  great  pro 
visions  to  improve,  and  the  arts  and  sciences  to  cultivate  ;  these 
are  what  remain  to  Mr.  Jefferson,  after  having  played  a  princi 
pal  character  on  the  theatre  of  the  new  world,  and  which  he 
preferred  to  the  honourable  commission  of  Minister  Plenipo 
tentiary  in  Europe.*  The  visit  which  I  made  him  was  not 
unexpected,  for  he  had  long  since  invited  me  to  come  and  pass 
a  few  days  with  him,  in  the  centre  of  the  mountains ;  notwith 
standing  which  I  found  his  first  appearance  serious,  nay  even 
cold ;  but  before  I  had  been  two  hours  with  him  we  were  as 
intimate  as  if  we  had  passed  our  whole  lives  together;  walking, 
books,  but  above  all,  a  conversation  always  varied  and  interest 
ing,  always  supported  by  that  sweet  satisfaction  experienced 
by  two  persons,  who  in  communicating  their  sentiments  and 
opinions,  are  invariably  in  unison,  and  who  understand  each 
other  at  the  first  hint,  made  four  days  pass  away  like  so  many 
minutes. 

This  conformity  of  sentiments  and  opinions  on  which  I  insist, 
because  it  constitutes  my  own  eulogium,  (and  self-love  must 
somewhere  show  itself,)  this  conformity,  I  say,  was  so  perfect, 
that  not  only  our  taste  was  similar,  but  our  predilections  also, 
those  partialities  which  cold  methodical  minds  ridicule  as  en- 

*•  Mr.  Jefferson  having  since  had  the  misfortune  to  lose  his  wife,  has 
at  last  yielded  to  the  intreaties  of  his  country,  and  accepted  the  place 
of  Minister  Plenipotentiary  at  the  court  of  France,  and  is  now  at  Paris. 
It  is  necessary  to  observe  that  Mr.  Jefferson,  who  justly  stands  in  the 
highest  situation  in  America,  was  one  of  the  five  Ministers  Plenipo 
tentiary  for  concluding  a  peace  in  Europe,  named  by  Congress  full  two 
years  before  it  took  place  ;  Messrs.  Franklin.  Adams,  Laurens,  and 
Jay,  were  the  other  four. —  Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  22U 

thusiastic,  whilst  sensible  and  animated  ones  cherish  and  adopt, 
the  glorious  appellation.  I  recollect  with  pleasure  that  as  we 
were  conversing  one  evening  over  a  bowl  of  punch,  after  Mrs. 
Jefferson  had  retired,  our  conversation  turned  on  the  poems  of 
Ossian.  It  was  a  spark  of  electricity  which  passed  rapidly 
from  one  to  the  other ;  we  recollected  the  passages  in  those 
sublime  poems,  which  particularly  struck  us,  and  entertained 
my  fellow  travellers,  who  fortunately  knew  English  well,  and 
were  qualified  to  judge  of  their  merit,  though  they  had  never 
read  the  poems.  In  our  enthusiasm  the  book  was  sent  for, 
and  placed  near  the  bowl,  where,  by  their  mutual  aid,  the 
night  far  advanced  imperceptibly  upon  us.  Sometimes  natu 
ral  philosophy,  at  others  politics  or  the  arts,  were  the  topics 
of  our  conversation,  for  no  object  'ad  escaped  Mr.  Jefferson; 
and  it  seemed  as  if  from  his  youth  he  had  placed  his  mind,  as 
he  has  done  his  house,  on  an  elevated  situation,  from  which 
he  might  contemplate  the  universe. 


CHAPTER  II. 

CHARLOTTEVILLE BATTLE  OF  COWPENS THE  GAP. 

THE  only  stranger  who  visited  us  during  our  stay  at  Monti- 
cello,  was  Colonel  Armand,  whom  I  have  mentioned  in  the 
first  part  of  my  Journal ;  he  had  been  in  France  the  preceding 
year  with  Colonel  Laurens,  but  returned  soon  enough  to  be 
present  at  the  siege  of  York,  where  he  marched  as  a  volun 
teer  at  the  attack  of  the  redoubts.  His  object  in  going  to 
France,  was  to  purchase  clothing  and  accoutrements  complete 
for  a  regiment  he  had  already  commanded,  but  which  had 
been  so  roughly  handled  in  the  campaigns  to  the  southward, 
that  it  was  necessary  to  form  it  anew :  he  made  the  advance 
of  the  necessaries  to  Congress,  who  engaged  to  provide  men 
and  horses.  Charlotteville,  a  rising  little  town,  situated  in  a 
valley  two  leagues  from  Monticello,  being  the  quarter  assigned 
for  assembling  this  legion,  Colonel  Armand  invited  me  to  dine 
with  him  the  next  day,  where  Mr.  Jefferson  and  I  went,  and 
found  the  legion  under  arms.  It  is  to  be  composed  of  200 
horse  and  150  foot.  The  horse  was  almost  complete  and  very 
well  mounted ;  the  infantry  was  still  feeble,  but  the  whole 
were  well  clothed,  well  armed,  and  made  a  very  good  appear 
ance.  We  dined  with  Colonel  Armand,  all  the  officers  of  his 
regiment,  and  a  wolf  he  amuses  himself  in  bringing  up,  which 
is  now  ten  months  old,  and  is  as  familiar,  mild,  and  gay  as  a 
young  dog ;  he  never  quits  his  master,  and  has  constantly  the 
privilege  of  sharing  his  bed.  It  is  to  be  wished  that  he  may 
always  answer  so  good  an  education,  and  not  resume  his  natu 
ral  character  as  he  advances  to  maturity.  He  is  not  quite  of  the 
same  kind  with  ours,  his  skin  is  almost  black,  and  very  glossy  ; 
he  has  nothing  fierce  about  the  head,  so  that  were  it  not  for  his 
upright  ears  and  pendent  tail,  one  might  readily  take  him  for 
a  dog.  Perhaps  he  owes  the  singular  advantage  of  not  exha 
ling  a  bad  smell,  to  the  care  which  is  taken  of  his. toilet;  for  I 
remarked  that  the  dogs  were  not  in  the  least  afraid  of  him,  and 
that  when  they  crossed  his  trace,  they  paid  no  attention  to  it. 
But  it  appears  improbable,  that  all  the  neatness  in  the  world 
can  deceive  the  instinct  of  those  animals,  which  have  such  a 
dread  of  wolves,  that  they  have  been  observed,  in  the  King's 
garden  at  Paris,  to  raise  their  coats  and  howl  at  the  smell  only 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  231 

of  two  mongrels,  engendered  by  a  dog  and  a  she-wolf.  I  am 
inclined  therefore  to  believe,  that  this  peculiarity  belongs  to 
the  species  of  black  wolf,  for  they  have  our  species  also  in 
America ;  and  in  Europe  we  may  possibly  have  the  black  kind, 
for  so  it  may  be  conjectured  at  least  from  the  old  proverb : 
"He  is  as  much  afraid  of  me  as  of  a  grey  wolf,"  which  implies 
that  there  are  also  black  ones. 

Since  I  am  on  the  subject  of  animals,  I  shall  mention  here 
some  observations  which  Mr.  Jefferson  enabled  me  to  make 
upon  the  wild  beasts  which  are  common  in  this  country.  I 
have  been  a  long  time  in  doubt  whether  to  call  them  roebucks, 
stags,  or  deer,  for  in  Canada  they  are  known  by  the  first  name, 
in  the  eastern  provinces  by  the  second,  and  in  the  southern  by 
the  third.  Besides,  in  America,  their  nomenclatures  are  so 
inaccurate,  and  their  observations  so  slight,  that  no  informa 
tion  can  be  acquired  by  examining  the  people  of  the  country. 
Mr.  Jefferson  amused  himself  by  raising  a  score  of  these  ani 
mals  in  his  park ;  they  are  become  very  familiar,  which  hap 
pens  to  all  the  animals  of  America ;  for  they  are  in  general 
much  easier  to  tame  than  those  of  Europe.  He  amuses  him 
self  by  feeding  them  with  Indian  corn,  of  which  they  are  very 
fond,  and  which  they  eat  out  of  his  hand.  I  followed  him  one 
evening  into  a  deep  valley,  where  they  are  accustomed  to  as 
semble  towards  the  close  of  the  day,  and  saw  them  walk,  run, 
and  bound :  but  the  more  I  examined  their  paces,  the  less  I 
was  inclined  to  annex  them  to  any  particular  species  in  Eu 
rope  ;  they  are  absolutely  of  the  same  colour  as  the  roebuck, 
and  never  change  even  when  they  are  tamed,  which  often  hap 
pens  to  deer.  Their  horns,  which  are  never  more  than  a  foot 
and  a  half  long,  and  have  more  than  four  branches  on  each 
side,  are  more  open  and  broader  than  those  of  the  roebuck ; 
they  take  an  oblique  direction  in  front ;  their  tails  are  from 
eight  to  ten  inches  long,  and  when  they  leap  they  carry  them 
almost  vertical  like  the  deer ;  resembling  those  animals  not 
only  in  their  proportions,  but  in  the  form  of  their  heads  which 
are  longer  and  less  frizzled  than  those  of  the  roebuck.  They 
differ  also  from  that  species,  as  they  are  never  found  in  pairs. 
From  my  own  observations,  in  short,  and  from  all  I  have  been 
able  to  collect  on  the  subject,  I  am  convinced  that  this  kind  is 
peculiar  to  America,  and  that  it  may  be  considered  something 
betwixt  the  deer  and  roebuck.*  Mr.  Jefferson  being  no  sports 
man,  and  not  having  crossed  the  seas,  could  have  no  decided 


*  I  have  been  lately  assured,  that  when  these  animals  grow  old,  their 
horns  are  as  large  as  those  of  the  stag,  but  their  flesh  has  certainly 
the  same  taste  with  that  of  the  deer  in  England. 


2&J  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

opinion  on  this  part  of  natural  history  ;  but  he  has  not  neg 
lected  the  other  branches.  I  saw  with  pleasure  that  he  had 
applied  himself  particularly  to  meteorological  observation, 
which,  in  fact,  of  all  the  branches  of  philosophy,  is  the  most 
proper  for  the  Americans  to  cultivate,  from  the  extent  of  their 
country,  and  the  variety  of  their  situations,  which  give  them 
in  this  point  a  great  o.dvantage  over  us,  who  in  other  respects 
have  so  many  over  them.  Mr.  Jefferson  has  made,  with  Mr. 
Madijlison,  a  well  informed  professor  of  mathematics,  some  cor 
respondent  observations  on  the  reigning  winds  at  Williams- 
burgh,  and  Monticello ;  and  although  these  two  places  are  at 
the  distance  only  of  fifty  leagues,  and  not  separated  by  any 
chain  of  mountains,  the  difference  of  their  results  was,  that 
for  127  observations  on  the  northeast  wind  at  Williamsburgh, 
there  were  only  32  at  Monticello,  where  the  northwest  wind 
in  general  supplies  the  place  of  the  northeast.  This  latter 
appears  to  be  a  sea-wind,  easily  counteracted  by  the  slightest 
obstacle,  insomuch  that  twenty  years  since  it  was  scarcely  ever 
felt  beyond  West-Point ;  that  is  to  say  beyond  the  conflux  of 
the  Pawmunkey  and  the  Matapony,  which  unite  and  form  York 
river,  near  thirty-five  miles  from  its  mouth.*  Since  the  pro 
gress  of  population  and  agriculture  has  considerably  cleared 
the  woods,  it  penetrates  so  far  as  Richmond,  which  is  thirty 
miles  farther.  It  may  hence  be  observed,  first,  that  the  winds 
vary  infinitely  in  their  obliquity,  and  in  the  height  of  their  re 
gion.  Secondly,  That  nothing  is  more  essential  than  the 
manner  in  which  we  proceed  in  the  clearing  of  a  country,  for 
the  salubrity  of  the  air,  nay  even  the  order  of  the  seasons, 
may  depend  on  the  access  which  we  allow  the  winds,  and  the 


*  The  rapid  changes  of  the  temperature  of  the  air  in  America,  and 
particularly  to  the  southward,  are  apt  to  destroy  the  best  European 
constitutions.  In  the  middle  of  the  hottest  day  in  July  and  August, 
when  the  heat  was  so  intolerable  as  almost  to  prevent  respiration,  I 
have  frequently  known  the  wind  shift  suddenly  round  to  the  northwest, 
attended  with  a  blast,  so  cold  and  humid,  as  to  make  it  immediately 
necessary  to  shut  all  the  doors  and  windows,  and  light  large  fires.  It 
is  impossible  to  conceive  any  thi/ig  more  trying  for  the  human  body, 
relaxed  and  open  at  every  pore,  from  a  continuance  of  burning  heat, 
than  this  raw,  piercing  wind  which  blows  over  such  immense  bound 
less  tracts  of  lakes  and  forests ;  but  the  melioration  of  the  climate, 
even  from  the  partial  and  comparatively  inconsiderable  destruc 
tion  of  the  woods  in  many  parts  of  the  continent,  is  so  rapid  as 
to  be  strikingly  perceptible  even  in  the  course  of  a  very  few  years ; 
and  its  salubrity  in  proportion  to  the  progress  of  these  improvements, 
will  probably  approach  much  nearer  to  those  of  Europe  under  the 
same  latitudes. — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA,  &*3 

direction  we  may  give  them.     It  is  a  generally  received  opi 
nion  at  Rome,  that  the  air  is  less  healthy  since  the  felling  of  a 
large  forest  situated  between  that  city  and  Ostia,  which  defend 
ed  it  from  the  winds  known  in  Italy  by  the  names  of  the  Scirocco 
and  the  Libico.     It  is  believed  in  Spain  also,  that  the  excessive 
droughts,  of  which  the  Castilians  complain  more  and  more, 
are  occasioned  by  the  cutting  down  of  the  woods,  which  used 
to  attract  and  break  the  clouds  in  their  passage.     There  is  yet 
a  very  important  consideration  upon  which  I  thought  it  my 
duty  to  fix  the  attention  of  the  learned  in  this  country,  what 
ever  diffidence  I  may  have  of  my  own  knowledge  in  philoso 
phy,  as  well  as  on  every  other  subject.     The  greatest  part  of 
Virginia  is  very  low  and  flat,  and  so  divided  by  creeks  and 
great  rivers,  that  it  appears  absolutely  redeemed  from  the  sea, 
and  an  entire  new  creation ;  it  is  consequently  very  swampy, 
and  can  be  dried  only  by  the  cutting  down  a  great  quantity  of 
wood ;  but  as  on  the  other  hand  it  can  never  be  so  drained  as 
not  still  to  abound  with  mephitical  exhalations ;  and  of  what 
ever  nature  these  exhalations  may  be,  whether  partaking  of 
fixed  or  inflammable  air,  it  is  certain  that  vegetation  absorbs 
them  equally,  and  that  trees  are  the  most  proper  to  accomplish 
this  object.*     It  appears  equally  dangerous  either  to  cut  down 
or  to   preserve  a  great  quantity  of  wood ;  so  that  the  best 
manner  of  proceeding  to  clear  the  country,  would  be  to  dis 
perse  the  settlements  as  much  as  possible,  and  to  leave  some 
groves  of  trees  standing  between  them.     In  this  manner  the 
ground  inhabited  would  be  always  healthy;  and  as  there  yet  re 
main  considerable  marshes  which  they  cannot  drain,  there  is 
no  risk  of  admitting  the  winds  too  easily,  as  they  would  serve 
to  carry  off*  the  exhalations. 

But  I  perceive  my  journal  is  something  like  the  conversation 
I  had  with  Mr.  Jefferson ;  I  pass  from  one  object  to  another, 
and  forget  myself  as  I  write,  as  it  happened  not  unfrequently 
in  his  society.  I  must  now  quit  the  friend  of  nature,  but  not 
nature  herself,  who  expects  me  in  all  her  splendour  at  the  end 
of  my  journey ;  I  mean  the  famous  Bridge  of  Rocks,  which 
unites  two  mountains,  the  most  curious  object  I  ever  yet  beheld, 
as  its  construction  is  the  most  difficult  of  solution.  Mr.  Jef 
ferson  would  most  willingly  have  conducted  me  thither,  al 
though  this  wonder  is  upwards  of  eighty  miles  from  him,  and 
he  had  often  seen  it ;  but  his  wife  being  expected  every  mo 
ment  to  lie-in,  and  himself  as  good  a  husband,  as  he  is  an  ex 
cellent  philosopher  and  a  virtuous  citizen,  he  only  acted  as  my 
guide  for  about  sixteen  miles,  to  the  passage  of  the  little  river 

*  This  discovery  the  world  owes  to  Doctor  Franklin. 
30 


234  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

Medium,  where  we  parted,  and  I  presume,  to  flatter  myself, 
with  mutual  regret. 

We  walked  our  horses  seventeen  miles  farther  in  the  defiles 
of  the  western  mountains,  before  we  could  find  a  place  to  bait 
them ;  at  last  we  stopped  at  a  little  lonely  house,  a  Mr.  Mac 
Donnell's,  an  Irishman,  where  wre  found  eggs,  bacon,  chickens, 
and  whiskey,  on  which  we  made  an  excellent  repast.     He  was 
an  honest,  obliging  man ;  and  his  wife,  who  had  a  very  agreea 
ble  and  mild  countenance,  had  nothing  rustic  either  in  her 
conversation  or  her  manner.     For  in  the  centre  of  the  woods, 
and  wholly  occupied  in  rustic  business,  a  Virginian  never  re 
sembles  an  European  peasant :  he  is  always  a  freeman,  partici 
pates  in  the  government,  and  has  the  command  of  a  few  ne 
groes.     So  that  uniting  in  himself  the  two  distinct  qualities  of 
citizen  and  master,  he  perfectly  resembles  the  bulk  of  indivi 
duals  who  formed  what  were  called  the  people  in  the  ancient 
republics  ;  a  people  very  different  from  that  of  our  days,  though 
they  are  very  improperly  confounded,  in  the  frivolous  decla 
mations  of  our  half  philosophers,  who,  in  comparing  ancient 
with  modern  times,  have  invariably  mistaken  the  word  people. 
for  mankind  in  general ;  and  believing  themselves  its  defend 
ers,  have  bestowed  their  praises  on  the  oppressors  of  humanity. 
How  many  ideas  have  we  still  to  rectify  ?     How  many  words, 
the  sense  of  which  is  yet  vague  and  indeterminate  ?     The  dig 
nity  of  man  has  been  urged  a  hundred  times,  and  the  expres 
sion  is  universally  adopted.     Yet  after  all,  the  dignity  of  man 
is  relative  ;  if  taken  in  an  individual  sense,  it  is  in  proportion 
to  the  inferior  classes  ;  the  plebeian  constitutes  the  dignity  of 
the  noble,  the  slave  that  of  the  plebeian,  and  the  negro  that  of 
his  white  master.    If  taken  in  a  general  acceptation,  it  may  in 
spire  man  with  sentiments  of  tyranny  and  cruelty,  in  his  relative 
situation  with  respect  to  other  animals ;  destroying  thus  the  ge 
neral  beneficence,  by  counteracting  the  orders  and  the  views  of 
nature.  What  then  is  the  principle  on  which  reason,  escaped  from 
sophists  and  rhetoricians,  may  at  last  rely  *?     The  equality  of 
rights  ;   the  general  interest  which  actuates  all ;  private  inte 
rest,  connected  with  the  general  good ;  the  order  of  society ; 
as  necessary  as  the  symmetry  of  a  beehive,  &c.  if  all  this  does 
not  furnish  matter  for  eloquence,  we  must  console  ourselves,  and 
prefer  genuine  morality  to  that  which  is  fallacious.*     We  had 

*  The  Marquis  de  Chastellux  has  distinguished  himself  very  honour 
ably  in  the  literary  world  by  several  productions,  but  particularly  by 
his  treatise  De  la  Felicite  Publique,  wherein  he  breathes  the  generous, 
enlightened  language  of  philanthropy  and  freedom.  He  was  chosen  a 
member  of  the  French  academy  at  a  very  early  age,  by  dint  of  his  own 
merit,  and  not  by  a  court  mandate,  or  intrigue,  and  was,  if  I  mistake 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  23$ 

reason  to  be  contented  with  that  of  Mr.  MacDonnell ;  he  pre 
sented  us  with  the  best  he  had,  did  not  make  us  pay  too  dear, 
and  gave  us  every  instruction  necessary  to  continue  our  jour 
ney  ;  but  not  being  able  to  set  out  until  half  past  four  o'clock, 
and  having  twelve  miles  to  go  before  we  passed  the  Blue 
Ridges,  we  were  happy  in  meeting  on  the  road  with  an  honest 
traveller,  who  served  us  for  a  guide,  and  with  whom  we  enter 
ed  into  conversation.  He  was  an  inhabitant  of  the  county  of 
Augusta,  who  had  served  in  Carolina  as  a  common  rifleman* 
notwithstanding  which,  he  was  well  mounted,  and  appeared 
much  at  his  ease.  In  America  the  militia  is  composed  of  all 
the  inhabitants  without  distinction,  and  the  officers  are  elected 
by  them  without  respect  either  to  service  or  experience.  Our 
fellow-traveller  had  been  at  the  battle  of  Cowpens,  where  Ge 
neral  Morgan,  with  eight  hundred  militia,  entirely  defeated  the 
famous  Tarleton,  at  the  head  of  his  legion,  a  regiment  of  regu 
lar  troops,  and  of  different  pickets  drawn  from  the  army,  form 
ing  near  twelve  hundred  men,  of  whom  upwards  of  eight  hun 
dred  were  killed  or  made  prisoners. f  This  event,  the  most 


not,  when  very  young,  in  correspondence  with,  and  a  favourite  of,  the 
illustrious  Pope  Ganganelli.  He  has  lately  translated  into  French, 
Colonel  Humphrey's  poem,  The  Campaign,  mentioned  in  the  notes  to 
the  previous  part  of  this  work. —  Trans. 

*  The  riflemen  are  a  Virginian  militia,  composed  of  the  inhabitants 
of  the  mountains,  who  are  all  expert  hunters,  and  make  use  of  rifle 
guns.  Towards  the  end  of  the  war  little  use  was  made  of  them,  as  it 
was  found  that  the  difficulty  of  loading  their  pieces  more  than  equal 
led  the  advantages  derived  from  their  exactness.  The  Americans  had 
great  numbers  of  riflemen  in  small  detachments  on  the  flanks  of  Ge 
neral  Burgoyne's  army,  many  of  whom  took  post  on  high  trees  in  the 
rear  of  their  own  line,  and  there  was  seldom  a  minute's  interval  of 
smoke  without  officers  being  taken  off  by  single  shot.  Captain  Green 
of  the  31st  regiment,  aid-de-camp  to  General  Philips,  was  shot  through 
the  arm  by  one  of  those  marksmen  as  he  was  delivering  a  message  to 
General  Burgoyne.  After  the  convention,  the  commanding  officer  of 
the  riflemen  informed  General  Burgoyne  that  the  shot  was  meant  for 
him  ;  and  as  Captain  Green  was  seen  to  fall  from  his  horse,  it  ^as  for 
some  hours  believed  in  the  American  army  that  General  Burgoyne  was 
killed.  His  escape  was  owing  to  the  captain's  having  lace  furniture 
to  his  saddle,  which  made  him  to  be  mistaken  for  the  general.  General 
Burgoyne  says,  in  his  narrative,  that  not  an  Indian  coi^'d  be  brought 
within  the  sound  of  a  rifle  shot. — Trans. 

|  Lord  Cornwallis,  in  his  answer  to  Sir  Her«y  Clinton's  narrative, 
published  in  1783,  gives  the  following  state  of' his  army  before  the  de 
feat  of  Tarleton,  and  subsequent  to  that  event,  from  which  we  may 


330  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

extraordinary  of  the  whole  war,  had  always  excited  my  curi 
osity.  The  modesty  and  simplicity  with  which  General  Mor 
gan  gave  the  account  of  it,  have  been  generally  admired.  But 

authenticate  the  loss  of  men,  and  deduce  the  importance  of  Morgan's 

victory  to  America. 

January  15th,  1781,  the  rank  and  file  of  his  Lordship's  army  was, 

Guards,  690 

7th  regiment,  167 

1 6th,  three  companies,  4 1 

23d  regiment,  286 

33d  regiment,  328 

71st,  1st  battalion,  249 

71st,  2d  battalion,  237 

71st  light  company,  69 

German  regiment  of  Bose.  347 

Yagers,  103 

Tarleton's  legion,  451 

N.  Carolina  volunteers,  256 

Total  before  the  battle,  3224 

February  1st,  1781,  after  the  defeat  of  Tarleton, 

Guards,  690 
7th  regiment, 
16th  regiment. 

23d  regiment,  279 

33d  regiment,  334 
71st,  1st  battalion, 

71st,  2d  battalion,  234 
71st  light  company, 

German  regiment  of  Bose.-  345 

Yagers,  97 

Tarleton's  legion,  1 74 

N.  Carolina  volunteers,  287 


Total  after  the  defeat  of  Tarleton,  2440 

Total  loss  with  the  detachment  of  artillery  800  out  of  1050  men, 
the  real  number  of  Tarleton's  force. 

The  names  of  the  regiments  that  have  no  numbers  annexed  to  them 
in  the  kst  column  are  those  which  were  totally  destroyed,  that  is,  kill 
ed,  wounded,  or  taken,  in  the  battle  of  Cowpens,  on  the  17th  of  Ja 
nuary,  betveen  Morgan  and  Tarleton.  Lord  Cornwallis  in  his  Ga 
zette  accoum  immediately  after  the  affair,  stated  the  loss  only  at  400, 
but  the  truth  ai  length  appears,  when  the  purposes  of  misrepresenta 
tion  are  at  an  end,  -and  the  detail  becomes  necessary  to  the  general's 
own  honour. 

Lord  Cornwallis  in  hie  account  of  Tarleton's  defeat,  mentions  a 
very  honourable  circumstance  for  the  corps  of  artillery,  but  which  was 
by  no  means  unexamfped  by  this  brave  body  of  men,  in  several  actions 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  237 

one  circumstance  in  this  relation  had  always  astonished  me, 
Morgan  drew  up  his  troops  in  order  of  battle,  in  an  open  woodr 
and  divided  his  riflemen  upon  the  two  wings,  so  as  to  form, 
with  the  line,  a  kind  of  tenaille,  which  collected  the  whole 
fire,  both  directly  and  obliquely,  on  the  centre  of  the  English. 
But  after  the  first  discharge,  he  made  so  dangerous  a  move 
ment,  that  had  he  commanded  the  best  disciplined  troops  in 
the  world,  I  should  be  at  a  loss  to  account  for  it.  He  ordered 
the  whole  line  to  wheel  to  the  right,  and  after  retreating  thirty 
or  forty  paces,  made  them  halt,  face  about,  and  recommence 
the  fire.  I  begged  this  witness,  whose  deposition  could  not  be 
suspected,  to  relate  what  he  had  seen,  and  I  found  his  account 
perfectly  conformable  to  Morgan's  own  relation.  But  as  he 
could  assign  no  reason  for  this  retrograde  motion,  I  inquired 
if  the  ground  behind  the  first  position  was  not  more  elevated 
and  advantageous,  but  he  assured  me  it  was  absolutely  the 
same  ;  so  that  if  it  was  this  action  which  tempted  the  English 
(whose  attack  is  not  hot,  but  consists  in  general  of  a  brisk 
fire,  rather  than  in  closing  with  the  enemy)  to  break  their  line, 
and  advance  inconsiderately  into  a  kind  of  focus  of  shot  pour 
ed  from  the  centre  and  the  wings,  it  depended  on  General 
Morgan  alone  to  have  claimed  the  merit,  and  to  have  boasted 
of  one  of  the  boldest  stratagems  ever  employed  in  the  art  of 
war.  This  is  a  merit  however  he  never  claimed,  and  the  rela 
tion  of  this  rifleman  leaves  no  doubt  with  me,  that  the  general, 
dreading  the  superiority  of  the  English,  had  at  first  designed 
to  give  up  gradually  the  field  of  battle,  and  retreat  to  covered 
ground,  more  advantageous  for  inferior  forces :  but  finding 
himself  closely  pressed,  he  had  no  other  resource  but  to  risk 
every  thing  and  give  battle  on  the  spot.  Whatever  was  the 
motive  of  this  singular  manoeuvre,  the  result  of  it  was  the  de 
feat  of  Tarleton,  whose  troops  gave  way  on  all  sides,  without 
a  possibility  of  rallying  them.  Fatigued  by  a  very  long  march, 
they  were  soon  overtaken  by  the  American  militia,  who,  as 
sisted  by  sixty  horse  under  Colonel  Washington,  made  up 
wards  of  five  hundred  prisoners,  and  took  two  pair  of  colours 
and  two  pieces  of  cannon. 

It  is  natural  to  inquire  how  Tarleton's  cavalry  were  employ 
ed  during  the  engagement,  and  after  the  defeat ;  whilst  the  in 
fantry  were  engaged,  they  endeavoured  to  turn  the  flanks  of 
General  Morgan's  army,  but  were  kept  in  awe  by  some  rifle- 


in  America  :  he  says,  "  In  justice  to  the  detachment  of  royal  artillery, 
I  must  here  observe  that  no  terrors  could  induce  tham  to  abandon  their 
guns,  and  they  were  all  either  killed  or  wounded  in  defence  of  them." 
—Trans. 


£58  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

men,  and  by  the  American  horse  detached  by  Colonel  Wash 
ington,  to  support  them,  in  two  little  squadrons.  After  the 
battle,  they  fled  full  gallop,  without  ever  thinking  of  the  infan 
try,  or  taking  the  least  precaution  to  cover  their  retreat.  As 
to  the  English  general,  God  knows  what  become  of  him.  And 
this  is  that  Tarleton  who  with  Cornwallis  was  to  finish  the  con 
quest  of  America ;  who  with  Cornwallis  had  received  the  thanks 
of  the  House  of  Commons,  and  whom  all  England  admired  as 
the  hero  of  the  army  and  the  honour  of  the  nation.* 

In  reflecting  on  the  fate  of  war,  let  us  recollect,  that  two 
months  after  this  victory  gained  by  the  militiaf  over  1200  vete 
ran  troops,  General  Greene,  after  having  assembled  near  5000 
men,  half  militia,  half  continentals,  made  choice  of  an  excel 
lent  position,  and  employed  all  the  resources  of  military  art, 
was  beaten  by  1800  men,  abandoned  by  his  militia,{  and  forced 

*  Colonel  Tarleton  has  given  so  many  proofs  not  only  of  courage 
but  of  great  bravery  and  firmness,  that  every  soldier  ought  to  approve 
the  eulogiums  bestowed  upon  his  valour.  It  were  to  be  wished  that 
he  had  always  made  good  use  of  those  qualities,  and  that  he  had  shown 
himself  as  humane  and  sensible,  as  brave  and  determined.  The  de 
sign  of  these  reflections  is  to  show,  how  much  the  English,  in  this  war, 
have  been  obliged  to  swell  their  successes,  and  diminish  their  defeats. 
The  more  rare  they  became,  the  more  they  were  disposed  to  solemn 
ize  the  former.  Howe  and  Burgoyne  were  disgraced  for  not  con 
quering  America,  whilst  others  have  obtained  promotion  for  gaining 
,some  trifling  advantages. 

t  Earl  Cornwallis  in  his  letter  in  the  London  Gazette  of  March  31st, 
1781,  says  that  Morgan  had  with  him,  "  By  the  best  accounts  he 
could  get,  about  500  men,  Continental  and  Virginia  state  troops,  103 
cavalry  under  Colonel  Washington,  and  G  or  700  militia  ;  but  that  bo 
dy  is  so  fluctuating,  that  it  is  impossible  to  ascertain  its  number  with 
in  some  hundreds,  for  three  days  following."  This  account  seems  to 
have  been  intended  to  qualify  the  defeat  of  Tarleton,  who  was  a  great 
favourite  ;  but  the  fact  is  nearly  as  the  Marquis  de  Chastellux  states 
it,  for  Morgan  had  very  few  continentals  with  him,  and  his  whole  body 
did  not  exceed  800  men. 

|  The  returns  of  Lord  Cornwallis'  army  taken  a  fortnight  before 
the  battle,  were  2213  :  the  returns  seventeen  days  after  it,  1723  ;  his 
loss  consequently  may  be  stated  at  about  the  difference,  490. 

Several  attempts  have  been  likewise  made  to  prove  that  General 
Greene  had  with  him  at  Guildford  an  army  of  9  or  10,000  men,  but 
Lord  Cornwallis  himself,  in  his  letter  to  Lord  Rawdon,  dated  Camp 
at  Guildford,  March  17,  1781,  and  published  in  the  London  Gazette 
of  May  10,  1781,  expressly  says,  "  General  Greene  having  been  very 
considerably  reinforced  from  Virginia  by  eight  months'  men  and  mili 
tia,  and  having  collected  all  the  militia  of  this  province,  advanced  with 
an  army  of  about  5  or  6000  men,  and  4  six  pounders,  to  this  place." 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

to  limit  all  his  glory  to  the  making  the  English  pay  dear  for 
the  field  of  battle,  which  the  rest  of  his  troops  defended  foot 
by  foot,  and  yielded  with  reluctance.*  Our  conversation  on 


From  this  unexpected  account  we  may  collect  pretty  clearly  the  indif 
ferent  composition  of  General  Greene's  force,  and  must  render  justice 
to  the  fairness  of  the  French  General's  detail  which  calls  them  5000 
men,  half  militia,  half  continentals  ;  and  states  the  conquering  army 
only  at  1800  men.  The  translator  hopes  the  reader  will  not  find  these 
comparisons  superfluous,  as  such  scrutinies  tend  to  elucidate  the  inte 
resting  events  of  an  ever  memorable  revolution,  and  to  enlighten  his 
tory.  General  Gates  showed  me,  at  his  house  in  Virginia,  a  letter 
from  General  Greene,  wherein  he  took  occasion  in  the  most  liberal 
manner  to  reconcile  him  to  the  unfortunate  affair  of  Camden,  by  a  de 
tail  of  the  bad  conduct  of  the  same  militia,  at  the  battle  of  Guildford, 
the  Eutaws,  &c.  He  touched  upon  the  matter  with  a  delicacy  and 
candour  which  did  equal  honour  to  his  sensibility  and  judgment.  Such 
a  tribute  of  justice  from  the  officer  who  had  superseded  him  in  his 
command  could  not  but  be  highly  grateful  to  General  Gates,  possess 
ing,  as  he  does,  in  the  most  eminent  degree,  the  warlike  virtues,  a  pure 
disinterested  attachment  to  the  cause  of  freedom,  and  all  the  generous 
susceptibility  of  an  amiable  private  gentleman.  Whilst  under  a  cloud 
himself,  I  heard  him  with  admiration  uniformly  expatiate  with  all  the 
distressed  warmth  of  public  virtue  on  the  successes  of  other  generals, 
and  instead  of  jealous  repining  and  disgust,  pay  his  tribute  of  applause 
to  the  merits  even  of  those  he  could  not  love,  and  prognosticate,  with 
confidence,  the  final  success  of  America.  It  was  with  real  joy  there 
fore,  that  I  saw  his  honour  vindicated  by  the  deliberate  voice  of  Con 
gress,  himself  restored  to  his  former  rank-  and  that  harmony  which  ne 
ver  should  have  been  disturbed,  renewed  between  this  true  patriot  and 
General  Washington,  under  whom  I  left  him  second  in  command  at 
the  camp  at  Verplank's  on  the  North  River  in  October,  1782. — Trans. 

*  Since  the  journal  was  written,  the  author  has  had  an  opportunity 
of  seeing  General  Morgan  ;  he  is  a  man  about  fifty,  tall,  and  of  a  very 
martial  appearance.  The  services  he  rendered  the  state  during  the 
war,  were  very  numerous,  and  his  promotion  rapid.  It  is  pre 
tended  that  he  was  formerly  a  carter,  and  from  the  same  unac- 
quaintance  with  the  customs  and  language  of  the  country,  another 
general  is  said  to  have  been  a  farmer,  because  he  employed  himself 
in  cultivation,  and  a  third  to  have  been  a  butcher,  because  he  dealt  in 
cattle.  General  Morgan  was  formerly  engaged  in  waggons,  under 
took  the  transport  of  goods  sent  by  land,  and  often  put  himself  at  the 

head  of  these  little  convoys.     The  Marquis  de  Ch ,  the  first 

time  he  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  him,  commanded  the  French 
troops  in  the  absence  of  the  Comte  de  Rochambeau  at  Philadelphia, 
during  the  march  from  Williamsburgh  to  Baltimore.  The  Marquis  de 

Ch was  then  at  Colchester,  with  the  first  division  of  the  troops, 

after  passing  in  boats  the  river  which  runs  near  the  town.  The  car 
riages  and  artillery  had  taken  another  road,  to  gain  ainndifferent  ford. 


WAV  ELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

war  and  battles  brought  us  to  the  foot  of  the  gap,  or,  as  it  i^f 
called,  the  neck  of  Rock-Fish,  which,  in  an  extent  of  more 
than  fifty  miles  is  the  only  passage  to  cross  the  Blue  Ridges, 
at  least  in  a  carriage.  We  ascended  very  commodiously,  for 
about  two  miles,  and  on  arriving  at  the  top  of  the  mountain, 
were  surprised  to  find  a  little  cottage  lately  built  and  inhabited 
by  white  people.  I  inquired  of  my  fellow-traveller  what  could 
engage  them  to  settle  in  so  barren  and  desert  a  place,  he  told 
me  they  were  poor  people  who  expected  to  get  some  assistance 
from  passengers. 


General  Morgan  met  them  when  they  were  engaged  in  a  very  narrow 
passage,  and  finding  the  carters  did  not  understand  their  business,  he 
stopped,  and  showed  them  how  they  ought  to  drive.     Having  put  every 
thing  in  order,  he  alighted  at  the  Marquis',  and  dined  with  him.    The 
simplicity  of  his  deportment,  and  the  nobleness  of  his  behaviour,  re 
called  to  mind  the  ancient  Gallic  and  German  chiefs,  who,  when  in 
peace  with  the  Romans,  came  to  visit  and  offer  them  assistance.     He 
expressed  a  great  attachment  to  the  French  nation,  admired  our  troops, 
and  never  ceased  looking  at  them  ;  often  repeating,  that  the  greatest 
pleasure  of  his  life  would  be,  to  serve   in  numerous  and  brilliant 
armies.     It  will  easily  be  conjectured  that  his  host  asked  him  many 
questions,  particularly  respecting  the  affair  of  Cowpens.     His  answer 
confirmed  what  the  rifleman  had  said  ;  he  owned  also  very  candidly 
that  the  retrograde  movement  he  had  made,  was  not   premeditated. 
His  troops  were  intimidated,  when  the  English,  with  more  confidence 
than  order,  advanced  to  the  attack  :  observing  them  keep  their  ranks, 
he  suffered  them  to  retreat  a  hundred  paces,  and  then  commanded  * 
them  to  halt  and  face  the  enemy,  as  if  the  retrograde  movement  had 
been  really  preconcerted.*     Though  this  account,  which  is  more  re- 
•cent  and  surer  than  in  the  text,  might  render  those  reflections  useless, 
it  was  thought  proper  to  preserve  them,  because  on  one  hand  they  are 
not  uninteresting  to  the  soldier,  and  on  the  other,  they  may  teach  phi 
losophers  and  critics  to  suspect  those  who  have  written  history,  above 
all,  those  who,  like  Titus  Livius,  Dionysius  of  Halicarnassus,  and  all 
the  copious  and  elegant  historians,  delight  in  multiplying  and  varying 
the  descriptions  of  battles ;  or,  what  is  yet  more  reprehensible,  who 
like  Frontin,  Pollien,  and  other  compilers,  borrow  from  historians  the 
events  and  stratagems  of  war,  which  they  endeavour  to  collect. 

General  Morgan  has  not  served  since  the  affair  of  Cowpens  ;  he 
lives  in  the  county  of  Fairfax  and  on  the  estate  which  he  had  either 
purchased  or  increased,  waiting  till  opportunity  shall  present  him  with 
some  command. 

*  General  Morgan  by  thus  dexterously  availing  himself  of  the  cir 
cumstances  of  his  very  critical  position,  has  perhaps  more  real  merit, 
than  if  he  had  really  preconceived  the  manoeuvre  which  has  given  him 
so  much  fame  ;  a  manoeuvre,  from  which,  unless  justified  by  a  neces 
sity  such  as  his,  he  had  no  right  to  expect  success,  in  the  face  of  a  skil 
ful  enemy  ;  but  Tarleton  never  was  a  commander. —  Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  m 

1  expected  this  answer,  and  was  sorry  to  find  in  a  new  coun 
try,  where  the  earth  wants  inhabitants,  and  agriculture  hands, 
white  people  under  the  necessity  of  begging.  I  stopped  a 
moment  to  view  the  wild  but  uninteresting  prospect  of  the 
western  mountains,  from  the  summit  of  the  Blue  Ridges. 
.But  as  the  sun  was  near  setting,  I  hastened  to  reach  the  only 
inn  where  lodgings  could  be  had,  on  the  other  side  of  the 
mountains.  Notwithstanding  which,  I  stopped  once  more,  nor 
had  I  any  reason  to  regret  it.  My  servant  always  followed  me 
with  a  fowling-piece,  and  as  it  frequently  happened  that  I  was 
obliged  to  alight  to  fire  at  a  partridge,  or  some  other  game,  our 
conversation  did  not  prevent  me  from  being  always  upon  the 
watch.  I  perceived  a  large  bird  which  crossed  the  road,  and 
by  the  instinct  of  a  sportsman,  I  concluded  it  to  be  what  the 
inhabitants  of  the  mountains  call  a  pheasant,  but  which  resenv 
bles  much  more  a  woodhen.  To  alight,  call  my  dog,  and  take 
my  gun,  was  the  work  of  a  moment;  as  I  was  preparing  to  fol 
low  the  woodhen  among  the  bushes,  one  of  my  servants  point 
ed  out  to  me  two  others,  perched  upon  a  tree  behind  him,  and 
which  looked  at  me  with  great  tranquillity.  I  fired  at  the  one 
nearest  to  me,  nor  did  it  require  much  address  to  kill  it.  Ex 
cept  that  it  was  perhaps  a  little  bigger,  it  resembled  the  one  1 
had  seen  at  Newport,  where  the  Americans  carry  them  some 
times  to  market,  in  winter,  when  they  descend  from  the  moun 
tains,  and  are  more  easily  killed.  This  one,  before  it  was 
plucked,  was  of  the  size  of  a  capon ;  its  plumage  on  the  back 
and  wings  resembled  that  of  a  hen  pheasant,  and,  on  the  belly 
and  thighs,  the  large  winter  thrush.  It  was  booted  like  the 
rough  footed  pigeon,  to  its  feet,  and  the  plumage  of  its  head 
formed  a  kind  of  aigrette  :  take  it  altogether,  it  is  a  beautiful 
bird,  and  good  eating  ;  but  when  stript  of  its  feathers,  it  was 
not  larger  than  the  red-footed  partridge,  or  bartavelle.  After 
ordering  the  woodhen  I  had  killed,  for  supper,  I  tried  to  find 
the  first  I  had  seen  run  into  the  underwood.  I  raised  it  once, 
and  although  I  ran  immediately,  and  had  an  excellent  dog,  it 
was  impossible  to  find  it ;  these  birds  running  very  fast,  like 
the  pheasant  and  the  ray  I.  The  mode  which  the  inhabitants 
of  the  mountains  make  use  of  to  kill  them,  is  to  walk  in  the 
woods  at  sunrising  and  sunsetting,  to  attend  to  the  noise  they 
make  in  beating  their  sides  with  their  wings,  which  may  be 
heard  above  a  mile ;  they  then  approach  softly,  and  usually 
find  them  sitting  upon  the  trunk  of  some  old  tree.  It  was  per 
haps  lucky  that  my  shooting  did  not  continue  with  more  suc 
cess  ;  for  it  was  almost  nignt  when  we  arrived  at  the  ford  of 
South  River,  and  the  waters,  considerably  augmented  by  the 
late  fains,  were  very  high.  I  was  proud  of  fording  the  famous 

31 


242  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

Potomac,  which  had  taken  me  an  hour  in  a  boat,  at  the  lerry  oi 
Alexandria.* 

South  river  in  fact  is  only  a  branch  of  the  Potomac,  the 
source  of  which  is  in  the  mountains,  and  like  all  other  rivers  is 
humble  in  its  rise ;  but  it  may  be  looked  upon  as  the  proudest 
of  its  branches,  as  at  the  distance  of  thirty  leagues,  it  is  above 
a  mile  broad,  and  resembles  more  an  arm  of  the  sea,  than  a  river. 
Two  hundred  paces  from  the  ford,  but  more  than  forty  miles 
from  the  place  from  which  I  set  out,  I  found  the  inn  which  Mr. 
Jefferson  had  described  to  me ;  it  was  one  of  the  worst  in  all 


*  In  travelling  from  Fredericktown  to  Leesburgh,  in  a  single-horse 
chaise  for  one  person,  called  in  America  a  sulky,  the  shafts  of  my  car 
riage  broke  about  a  mile  from  the  Potomac,  on  the  Maryland  side,  and 
I  was  reduced  to  the  necessity,  having  no  servant,  of  leaving  it  with 
all  my  papers,  money,  fire-arms,  &c.  and  of  mounting  my  horse  in 
search  of  assistance.     Night  was  coming  on  in  a  most  difficult  coun 
try,  to  which  I  was  an  utter  stranger,  and  not  even  a  negro  hut  was 
to  be  met  with.     In  these  circumstances  I  approached  the  Potomac, 
on  the  other  side  of  which  I  discovered  a  smoke  in  the  woods,  which 
gave  me  hopes  of  its  proceeding  from  a  house,  but  the  river  was  near 
a  mile  broad,  and  my  horse  barely  fourteen  hands  high.     Whilst  I  was 
thus  standing  in  suspense,  two  travellers  arrive  on  horseback  and  push 
Jnto  the  river,  a  little  higher  up.     I  flew  to  follow  them,  but  scarcely 
had  they  advanced  one  hundred  yards  before  they  returned,  declaring 
it  not  fordable,  and,  to  add  to  my  distress,  they  assured  me  that  I  was 
at  a  great   distance  from  any  house  on  that  side,  but,  on  the  other,  I 
should  find  an  ordinary  kept  by  a  Scotsman.     They  excused  themselves 
from  assisting  me  on  the  plea  of  urgent  business,  and  left  me  with  the 
consoling  assurance  that  the  river  might  possibly  be  fordable,  though 
they  who  were  inhabitants  of  the  country,  did  not  choose  to  venture  it. 
Perceiving  the  bottom  of  a   good  gravel,  and  free  from  rocks,  I  at 
tempted  the  passage  as  soon  as  they  left  me,  and  in  about  twenty  dan 
gerous  and  irksome  minutes  reached  the  other  side,  where  I  obtained 
the  cheerful  aid  of  two  native  negroes  at  the  Scotsman's  hut,  for  it  was 
no  better,  and  recrossing  the  river,  went  in  search  of  my  broken  car 
riage,  which  we  found  in  security.     It  was  ten  o'clock  before  I  passed 
the  river  a  third  time>  always  up  to  my  waist,  and  reached  my  quarters 
for  the  night,  where  at  least  I  met  with  as  hospitable  a  reception  as 
the  house  afforded  ;  but  the  consequence  of  this  adventure,  wherein  I 
was  successively  wet  and  <]rv  three  times,  in  the  hot  month  of  July, 
was  a  fever  and  ague  which  tormented  me  for  five  months.     At  Alex 
andria,  about  fifty  miles  low«n  down,  the  Potomac  rolls  its  majestic 
stream  with  sublimity  and  grandeur,  sixty-gun  ships  may  lie  before  the 
town,  which  stands  upon  its  lofty  banks,  commanding,  to  a  great  ex 
tent,  the  flatter  shore  of  Maryland.     This  town,  which  stands  above 
200  miles  from  the  sea,  is  rapidly  on  the  increase,  and  from  the  lavish 
prodigality  of  nature,  cannot  fail  of  becoming  one  of  the  first  cities  of 
the  new  world .^-Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  243 

America.  Mrs.  Teaze,  the  mistress  of  the  house,  was  some 
time  since  left  a  widow ;  she  appears  also  to  be  in  fact  the  wi 
dow  of  her  furniture,  for  surely  never  was  house  so  badly  fur 
nished.  A  solitary  tin  vessel  was  the  only  bowl  for  the  family, 
the  servants  and  ourselves  ;  I  dare  not  say  for  what  other  use  it 
was  proposed  to  us  on  our  going  to  bed.*  As  we  were  four 
masters,  without  reckoning  the  rifleman,  who  had  followed  us, 
and  whom  I  had  engaged  to  supper,  the  hostess  and  the  family 
were  obliged  to  resign  to  us  their  beds.  But  at  the  moment 
we  were  inclined  to  make  use  of  them,  a  tall  young  man  enter 
ing  the  chamber,  where  we  were  assembled,  opened  a  closet, 
and  took  out  of  it  a  little  bottle.  I  inquired  what  it  was  ;  it  is, 
said  he,  something  which  the  doctor  in  the  neighbourhood  has 
ordered  me  to  take  every  day.  And  for  what  complaint,  said 
I  ?  Oh  !  not  much,  he  replied,  only  a  little  itch  !  I  own  his 
confession  was  ingenuous,  but  I  was  by  no  means  sorry  that  I 
had  sheets  in  my  portmanteau.  It  may  easily  be  imagined  we 
were  not  tempted  to  breakfast  in  this  house.  We  set  out 
therefore  very  early  on  the  18th,  in  hopes  (as  we  had  been 
told,)  that  we  should  find  a  better  inn,  at  the  distance  of  ten 
miles,  but  those  hopes  were  vain.  Mr.  Smith,  a  poor  planter, 
to  whom  we  were  recommended,  had  neither  forage  for  our 
horses,  nor  any  thing  for  ourselves.  He  only  assured  us,  that 
eight  miles  farther  we  should  find  a  mill,  the  proprietor  of 
which  kept  a  public-house,  and  we  found  accordingly  the  mill 
and  the  miller.  He  was  a  young  man,  twenty-two  years  of  age, 
whose  charming  face,  fine  teeth,  red  lips,  and  rosy  cheeks,  re 
called  to  mind  the  pleasing  portrait  which  Marmontel  gives  of 
Lubin.  His  walk  and  carriage  did  not  however  correspond 
with  the  freshness  of  his  looks,  for  he  appeared  sluggish  and 
inactive.  I  inquired  the  reason,  and  he  told  me  he  had  been 
in  a  languishing  state  ever  since  the  battle  of  Guildford,  in 
which  he  had  received  fifteen  or  sixteen  wounds  with  a  hanger. 
He  had  not,  like  the  Romans,  a  crown  to  attest  his  valour ;  nor, 


*  The  Marquis'  distress  on  this  occasion,  reminds  me  naturally  of  a 
similar,  but  still  worse  situation  in  which  I  found  myself  on  my  return 
from  America  towards  the  end  of  the  war,  with  four  officers  of  the  ar 
my  of  the  Comte  de  Rochambeau.  Our  captain  being  obliged  sud 
denly  to  take  advantage  of  one  of  those  violent  north-westers  which 
blow  in  December,  to  get  clear  of  the  coast,  beset  with  New- York 
Privateers,  forgot  all  his  crockery  ware,  so  that  in  default  of  plates, 
mugs,  &c.  we  were  obliged,  during  a  winter's  voyage  of  seven  weeks, 
to  apply  two  tin  jugs  we  had  purchased  to  drink  our  cider,  to  every 
use  ;  and,  in  spite  of  my  representations,  even  to  some  purposes  I  am 
unwilling  to  repeat ;  for  in  bad  weather,  these  excellent  land-officers 
not  be  prevailed  upon  to  look  on  deck. — Trans. 


344  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

like  the  French,  either  pension  or  certificate  of  honour  :  instead 
of  them,  he  had  a  piece  of  his  skull,  which  his  wife  brought  to 
show  me.  I  certainly  little  thought  of  finding,  amidst  the  so 
litudes  of  America,  such  lamentable  traces  of  European  steel ; 
but  I  was  the  most  touched  to  learn  that  it  was  after  he  had 
received  his  first  wound,  and  was  made  prisoner,  that  he  had 
been  thus  cruelly  treated.  This  unhappy  young  man  acquaint 
ed  me,  that  overcome  with  wounds,  and  wallowing  in  his  blood, 
he  yet  retained  his  presence  of  mind,  and  imagining  his  cruel 
enemies  would  not  leave  existing  a  single  witness  or  victim  of 
their  barbarity,  there  remained  no  other  way  of  saving  his  life, 
than  by  appearing  as  if  he  had  lost  it. 

The  all-seeing  eye  of  Divine  Justice  alone  can  discover  and 
make  known  the  authors  of  such  a  crime ;  but,  if  discovered 
— Oh  !  for  the  voice  of  a  Stentor,  and  the  trumpet  of  Fame,  to 
devote  the  vile  perpetrators  to  present  and  future  horror! 
And  to  announce  to  all  sovereigns,  generals.,  and  chiefs,  that 
the  enormities  which  they  tolerate,  or  leave  unpunished,  will 
accumulate  upon  their  heads,  and,  at  some  future  time,  render 
them  the  execration  .of  a  posterity  still  more  sensible,  and 
more  enlightened  than  we  yet  are  ! 

Even  if  Mr.  Steel,  our  landlord,  had  been  more  active,  and 
his  wife,  who  was  young  and  handsome,  more  industrious, 
they  could  not  have  supplied  the  total  want  in  which  they  then 
were,  of  bread,  and  of  every  thing  to  drink;  the  bread  was 
just  kneaded,  but  not  yet  put  into  the  oven;  and  as  for  liquors, 
the  house  made  use  of  none ;  the  same  stream  which  turned 
the  mill,  was  the  only  cellar  of  the  young  couple,  so  that  we 
might  apply  to  Mrs.  Steel  those  verses  of  Guarini, 

Quel  fonte  on  (Telia  beve 

Quel  solo  aneo  la  bagna,  e  la  configlia. 

But  these  pastoral  manners  are  but  ill  suited  to  travellers, 
A  few  cakes,  however,  baked  upon  the  cinders,  excellent  but 
ter,  good  milk,  and  above  all,  the  interest  with  which  Mr. 
Steel  inspired  us,  made  us  pass  agreeably  the  time  which  was 
necessary  to  put  our  horses  in  a  condition  to  perform  a  long 
and  difficult  day's  journey.  About  five  o'clock  in  the  evening, 
after  we  had  travelled  thirty-eight  miles,  we  found  some  houses, 
where  we  learned  that  we  were  yet  six  miles  from  Praxton's 
tavern,  where  we  intended  to  sleep;  that  we  had  two  fords  to 
pass,  the  last  of  which  was  impracticable  on  account  of  the  late 
rains;  but  that  we  should  not  be  stopped,  as  we  should  find  a 
canoe  to  take  us  across,  and  our  horses  would  swim  behind. 
The  night,  and  a  black  storm  which  was  brewing,  made  us 
hasten  our  steps.  Notwithstanding  which,  we  were  obliged 
to  mount  and  descend  a  very  high  mountain ;  scarcely 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  245 

there  remaining  the  least  twilight  when  we  arrived  at  the 
second  river,  which  is  as  large  as  James',  but  near  its  source, 
and  at  a  place  where  it  descends  from  the  mountains  under 
the  name  of  the  Fluvanna.     The  difficulty  was  to  pass  ten 
men  and  as  many  horses  with  the  help  of  a  single  canoe,  such 
as  is  made  use  of  by  the  savages,  which  at  most  could  contain 
only  four  or  five  persons  and  a  single  negro,  armed  with  a  pad 
dle  instead  of  an  oar.     We  put  into  the  canoe  our  saddles 
and  baggage,  and  made  several  trips,  at  each  of  which  two 
horses  were  swam  across,  held  by  the  bridle.     It  was  night, 
and  very  dark  before  this  business  was  finished.     But  after  we 
had,  not  without  great  trouble,  resaddled  and  reloaded  our 
horses,  the  difficulty  was  to  reach  the  inn,  which  was  half  a 
mile  from  the  place  where  we  landed  ;  for  the  river  flows  be 
tween  two  precipices,  and  as  the  canoe  could  not  land  us  at 
the  ford,  nor  consequently  at  the  road,  we  were  obliged  to 
climb  up  the  mountain,  by  a  path  but  little  used,  and  very 
difficult  even  by  daylight ;  nor  should  we  ever  have  found  our 
way  had  I  not  engaged  the  waterman  to  conduct  us.    We  clam 
bered  up  as  well  as  we  could,  every  one  leading  his  horse 
through  the  trees  and  branches,  which  we  could  not  perceive, 
from  the  obscurity  of  the  night,  until  they  struck  us  on  the 
face.     At  last  we  arrived  at  Praxton's  tavern ;  but  it  was  ten, 
o'clock,  and  the  house  already  shut  up,  or  more  properly  the 
houses,  for  there  are  two.     I  approached  the  first  that  offered, 
and  knocked  at  the  door,  which  they  opened,  and  we  saw  five 
or  six  little  negroes  lying  upon  a  mat  before  a  large  fire.     We 
then  went  to  the  other,  and  there  found  five  or  six  white  child 
ren  lying  in  the  same  manner ;  two  or  three  grown  up  negroes 
presided  over  each  of  these  little  troops.*     They  told  us  that 
Mr.  Praxton,  his  wife,  and  all  his  family,  were  invited  to  a 
wedding,  but  not  far  off,  and  that  they  would  go  and  fetch 
them.     As  for  us,  we  were  invited  to  supper  by  a  very  vora 
cious  appetite,  after  a  long  journey  and  a  great  deal  of  fa 
tigue,  and  were  very  differently  situated  from  the  new  married 
couple  and  their  company,  and  had  no  small  apprehensions  of 

*  It  was  a  singular  sight  for  an  European  to  behold  the  situation  of 
the  negroes  in  the  southern  provinces  during  the  war,  when  clothing- 
was  extremely  scarce.  I  have  frequently  seen  in  Virginia,  on  visits  to 
gentlemen's  houses,  young  negroes  and  negresses  running  about  or 
basking  in  the  court-yard  naked  as  they  came  into  the  world,  with  well 
characterized  marks  of  perfect  puberty  ;  and  young  negroes  from  six 
teen  to  twenty  years  old,  with  not  an  article  of  clothing,  but  a  loose 
shirt,  descending  half  way  down  their  thighs,  waiting  at  table  where 
were  ladies,  without  any  apparent  embarrassment  on  one  side,  or  the 
slightest  attempt  at  concealment  on  the  other,— Trans. 


246  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

seeing  our  host  and  hostess  return  completely  drunk.  But  in 
this  we  were  deceived ;  they  arrived  perfectly  sober,  were  po 
lite  and  desirous  to  please,  and  a  little  after  midnight  we  had 
an  excellent  supper.  Though  the  apartments  and  beds  were 
not  exactly  what  we  wished,  they  were  better  than  at  Mrs. 
Teaze's,  and  we  had  no  right  to  complain.  Besides,  we  en 
joyed  the  satisfaction  of  having  accomplished  the  object  of 
our  journey;  for  the  Natural  Bridge  was  not  above  eight 
miles  off,  and  we  had  obtained  every  information  necessary  to 
find  the  road.  The  next  morning  our  breakfast  was  ready  be 
times,  and  served  by  the  daughters  of  Captain  Praxton ;  they 
had  not  appeared  to  advantage  the  preceding  evening,  not 
withstanding  which,  so  far  as  the  obscurity  of  the  room  we 
supped  in,  our  appetites,  and  the  immense  caps  in  which  they 
were  muffled  up  for  the  marriage,  had  permitted  us  to  judge 
of  them,  we  thought  them  tolerably  handsome ;  but  when  we 
saw  them  by  daylight,  with  their  hair  only  turned  up,  without 
any  other  head-dress,  the  repose  of  the  night  their  sole  orna 
ment,  and  for  every  grace,  their  natural  simplicity,  we  were 
confirmed  in  the  opinion  we  had  already  formed,  that  the  peo 
ple  of  the  mountains  are,  in  general,  handsomer  and  healthier 
than  those  on  the  sea  coast.*  There  was  in  the  house  a  young 
man  also,  tolerably  well  dressed,  and  of  an  agreeable  counte 
nance,  whom  I  concluded  to  be  an  intended  match  for  one  of 
our  young  hostesses.  But  I  soon  discovered  that  he  was  come 
for  matches  of  another  kind.  In  fact,  one  of  my  fellow-tra 
vellers  inviting  me  to  go  and  see  a  very  fine  horse,  which  stood 
alone  in  a  little  stable,  I  was  informed  it  was  a  stallion,  which 
this  young  man  had  brought  upwards  of  eighty  miles,  to  dis 
pose  of  his  favours  to  the  mares  of  the  country.f  His  price 

"*  The  South-Carolina  gentlemen  with  whom  I  was  acquainted,  as 
sured  me,  that  the  inhabitants  of  the  back  parts  of  that  state,  which 
is  one  of  the  most  unhealthy  on  the  continent,  are  a  vigorous  and 
beautiful  race  of  people,  and  possess  all  that  hale  ruddiness  which 
characterises  the  natives  of  northern  climates. — Trans. 

|  Great  attention  is  paid  to  the  breed  of  blood  horses  to  the  south 
ward,  and  particularly  in  Virginia,  and  many  second  rate  race  horses 
are  annually  sent  from  England  to  serve  as  stallions.  There  were 
two  or  three  in  the  stables  of  one  Bates,  near  Philadelphia,  which  I 
had  seen  win  plates  in  England.  This  Bates  is  a  native  of  Morpeth  in 
Northumberland,  and  went  to  America  before  the  war  to  display  feats 
of  horsemanship,  but  he  had  the  good  fortune  to  marry  a  widow  pos 
sessed  of  five  hundred  pounds  a  year,  and  is  now  master  of  a  most 
beautiful  villa  on  the  banks  of  the  Delaware,  four  or  five  miles  from 
Philadelphia,  still  following,  however,  the  occupation  of  breeding  and 
selling  horses,  and  keeping  stallions,  for  there  are  no  resources  for 
in  that  country. — Trap*. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  247 

was  twenty  shillings  Virginia  currency,*  or  eighteen  livres  of 
our  money,  (about  fifteen  shillings  sterling,)  for  each  visit,  or 
the  double  if  the  connection  was  of  longer  duration :  which 
is  much  less  than  is  paid  in  the  other  parts  of  Virginia.  These 
details,  which  may  appear  trifling,  will  however  serve  to  make 
the  reader  acquainted  with  a  country,  the  inhabitants  of  which, 
dispersed  in  the  woods,  are  separated  only  for  the  purposes  of 
domestic  comfort,  which  renders  them  independent  of  each 
other,  but  who  readily  communicate  for  the  general  interest,  or 
their  mutual  wants.  But  I  am  too  near  the  Natural  Bridge  to 
stop  at  other  objects. 


*  The  difference  of  currency  is  one  of  the  most  puzzling  and  disa 
greeable  circumstances  for  a  stranger  in  America,  the  value  of  the 
pound  varying  in  every  state  ;  an  inconvenience  which  existed  under 
the  British  government,  and,  I  am  afraid,  is  still  likely  to  subsist. — 
Tram. 


CHAPTER  III. 


NATURAL   BRIDGE NEW-LONDON CUMBERLAND    COURT-HOUSE — » 

POWHATTAN  COURT-HOUSE. 

WE  set  out  at  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  to  say  the 
truth,  rather  heedlessly  ;  for  in  these  mountains,  where  there 
are  either  too  many  or  too  few  roads,  people  always  think  they 
have  given  sufficient  directions  to  travellers,  who  seldom  fail 
to  go  astray.  This  is  the  common  fault  of  those  who  instruct 
others  in  what  they  themselves  are  well  acquainted  with,  nor 
are  the  roads  to  science  exempt  from  this  inconvenience. 
After  riding  about  two  miles  however,  we  luckily  met  a  man 
who  had  just  got  his  horse  shod,  at  a  neighbouring  forge,  and 
was  returning  home  followed  by  two  or  three  couple  of  hounds.* 
We  soon  entered  into  conversation  with  him,  and  what  seldom 
happens  in  America,  he  was  curious  to  know  who  I  was,  and 
whither  I  was  going. f  My  quality  of  a  general  officer  in  the 


*  Stopping  one  day  at  a  smith's  shop  near  Winchester,  in  the  inte 
rior  of  Virginia,  I  found  one  of  the  workmen  to  be  a.  Scotch  High 
lander  in  his  Gaelic  dress,  and  soon  saw  several  more  returning  from 
harvest ;  these  men  had  been  soldiers,  and  were  then  prisoners,  but  they 
were  all  peaceable  industrious  labourers,  and  I  could  not  find  that  any 
of  them  thought  of  returning  to  the  barren  hills  of  Caledonia.  Gene 
ral  Gates  had  several  of  them  in  his  employ,  and  they  were  dispersed 
over  the  whole  country,  where  they  appeared  completely  naturalized 
and  happy.  I  afterwards  saw  many  of  them  working  at  mills,  and  as 
quarry-men  on  the  picturesque  banks  of  that  sublime  river  the  Sus- 
quehannah,  a  circumstance  which  transported  my  imagination  to  the 
well  known  borders  of  the  Tay,  and  of  Loch  Lomond. — Trans. 

1 1  am  apt  to  think  that  the  experience  of  every  person  who  has 
visited  North-America,  as  well  as  my  own  country,  will  rise  in  judg 
ment  against  this  observation  of  the  author ;  for  my  part,  were  I  search 
ing  for  a  general  characteristic  of  that  part  of  the  Continent,  I  should 
not  scruple  to  distinguish  it  by  the  name  of  the  country  of  the  curious. 
Wherever  you  bend  your  course,  to  whomsoever  you  address  yourself, 
you  are  indispensably  subject  to  a  good  humoured,  inoffensive,  but 
mighty  troublesome  inquisition.  Do  you  inquire  your  road  ?  you  are 
answered  by  a  question,  "  J  suppose  you  come  from  the  eastward,  don't 
you  ?"  Oppressed  with  fatigue,  hunger,  and  thirst,  and  drenched  per- 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  249 

French  service,  and  the  desire  I  expressed  of  seeing  the  won 
ders  of  his  country,  inspiring  him  with  a  kind  of  affection  for 
me,  he  offered  to  be  our  conductor,  leading  us  sometimes- 
through  little  paths,  at  others  through  woods,  but  continually 
climbing  or  descending  mountains,  so  that  without  a  guide, 
nothing  short  of  witchcraft  could  have  enabled  us  to  find 
the  road.     Having  thus  travelled  for  two  hours,  we  at  last  de 
scended  a  steep  declivity,  and  then  mounted  another ;  during 
which  time  he  endeavoured  to  render  the  conversation  more 
interesting.     At  last,  pushing  his  horse  on  briskly,  and  stopping 
suddenly,  he  said  to  me,   "You  desire  to  see  the   Natural 
Bridge,  don't  you  Sir  ?     You  are  now  upon  it,  alight  and  go 
twenty  steps  either  to  the  right  or  left,  and  you  will  see  this 
prodigy."     I  had  perceived  that  there  was  on  each  side  a  con 
siderable  deep  hollow,  but  the  trees  had  prevented  me  from 
forming  any  judgment,  or  paying  much  attention  to  it.     Ap 
proaching  the  precipice,  I  saw  at  first  two  great  masses  or 
chains  of  rocks,  which  formed  the  bottom  of  a  ravine,  or  rather 
of  an  immense  abyss ;  but  placing  myself,  not  without  precau 
tion,  upon  the  brink  of  the  precipice,  I  saw  that  these  two 
buttresses  were  joined  under  my  feet,  forming  a  vault,  of  which 
I  could  yet  form  no  idea,  but  of  its  height.     After  enjoying 
this  magnificent  but  tremendous  spectacle,  which  many  per 
sons  could  not  bear  to  look  at,  I  went  to  the  western  side,  the 
aspect  of  which  was  not  less  imposing,  but  more  picturesque. 
This  Thebais,  these  ancient  pines,  these  enormous  masses  of 


haps  with  rain,  you  answer  shortly  in  the  affirmative,  and  repeat  your 
inquiry — "  Methinks  you  are  in  a  mighty  haste — What  news  is  there  to 
the  eastward  ?"     The  only  satisfaction  you  can  obtain  till  you  have 
opened  your  real,  or  pretended  budget  of  news,  and  gratified  the  de- 
mander's  curiosity.     At  an  inn,  the  scrutiny  is  more  minute ;  your 
name,  quality,  the  place  of  your  departure,  and  object  of  your  journey, 
must  all  be  declared  to  the  good  family  in  some  way  or  other,  (for  their 
credulity  is  equal  to  their  curiosity,)  before  you  can  sit  down  in  com 
fort  to  the  necessary  refreshment.     This  curious  spirit  is  intolerable 
in  the  eastern  states,  and  I  have  heard  Dr.  Franklin,  who  is  himself  a 
Bostonian,  frequently  relate  with  great  pleasantry,  that  in  travelling 
when  he  was  young,  the  first  step  he  took  for  his  tranquillity,  and  to 
obtain  immediate  attention  at  the  inns,  was  to  anticipate  inquiry,  by 
saying,  "  My  name  is  Benjamin  Franklin,  I  was  born  at  Boston,  am  a 
printer  by  profession,  am  travelling  to  Philadelphia,  shall  return  at  such 
a  time,  and  have  no  news — Now  what  can  you  give  me  for  dinner  ?" 
The  only  cause  which  can  be  assigned  for  the  author's  error  in  this 
respect,  is  the  state  in  which  he  travelled,  his  being  a  foreigner,  and 
the  facility  of  obtaining  information  from  the  persons  of  his  retinue.-- 
Trans. 


250  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

rocks,  so  much  the  more  astonishing  as  they  appear  to  possess 
a  wild  symmetry,  and  rudely  to  concur,  as  it  were,  in  forming 
a  certain  design;  all  this  apparatus  of  rude  and  shapeless  na 
ture,  which  art  attempts  in  vain,  attacks  at  once  the  senses  and 
the  thoughts,  and  excites  a  gloomy  and  melancholy  admiration. 
But  it  is  at  the  foot  of  these  rocks,  on  the  edge  of  a  little  stream 
which  flows  under  this  immense  arch,  that  we  must  judge  of 
its  astonishing  structure ;  there  we  discover  its  immense  spurs, 
its  back-bendings,  and  those  profiles  which  architecture  might 
have  given  it.     The  arch  is  not  complete,  the  eastern  part  of 
it  not  being  so  large  as  the  western,  because  the  mountain 
is  more  elevated  on  this  than  on  the  opposite  side.     It  is  very 
extraordinary  that  at  the  bottom  of  the  stream  there  appear 
no  considerable  ruins,  no  trace  of  any  violent  laceration,  which 
could  have  destroyed  the  kernel  of  the  rock,  and  have  left  the 
upper  part  alone  subsisting  ;  for  that  is  the  only  hypothesis  that 
can  account  for  such  a  prodigy.     We  can  have  no  possible  re 
course  either  to  a  volcano  or  a  deluge,  no  trace  of  a  sudden 
conflagration,  or  of  a  slow  and  tedious  undermining  by  the 
water. 

The  rock  is  of  the  calcareous  kind,  and  its  different  strata 
are  horizontal ;  a  circumstance  which  excludes  even  the  idea 
of  an  earthquake,  or  subterraneous  cavern.  It  is  not,  in  short, 
for  a  small  number  of  travellers  to  give  a  decided  opinion  for 
the  public  on  this  phenomenon  of  nature.  It  belongs  to  the 
learned  of  both  worlds  to  judge  of  it,  and  they  will  now  be 
enabled  to  attempt  the  discussion.  The  necessary  steps  are 
taken  to  render  it  as  public  as  its  singularity  deserves  ;  an  of 
ficer  of  the  engineers,  the  Baron  de  Turpin,  an  excellent  ma 
thematician  and  an  accurate  draughtsman,  is  gone  to  take  the 
principal  aspects  and  dimensions.  His  labours  will  supply  the 
deficiency  of  my  description.  Though  unacquainted  with  the 
powers  of  nature,  we  may  ai  least  have  some  idea  of  our  own. 
I  shall  therefore  leave  to  more  able  hands  the  care  of  finishing 
this  picture,  of  which  I  have  given  only  an  imperfect  sketch, 
and  continue  the  relation  of  our  journey,  which,  though  the 
principal  object  be  already  accomplished,  is  not  near  being 
terminated,  for  the  Natural  Bridge  is  more  than  two  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  from  Williamsburgh. 

Whilst  I  was  examining  on  all  sides,  and  endeavouring  to 
take  some  drawings,  my  fellow-travellers  had  learned  from  our 
conductor  that  he  kept  a  public-house,  about  seven  or  eight 
miles  from  the  place  where  we  were,  and  not  more  than  two 
from  the  road  which  must  be  taken  next  day  to  leave  the  moun 
tains.  Mr.  Grisby,  (the  name  of  our  guide,)  had  expressed 
his  wishes  to  receive  us,  assuring  us  we  should  be  as  well  as 
at  the  tavern  recommended  by  Mr.  Praxton  ;  but  had  this  been 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  251 

otherwise,  we  had  too  many  obligations  to  Mr.  Grisby  not  to 
give  him  the  preference.  We  renewed  our  journey  therefore, 
under  his  guidance,  through  the  woods,  which  were  very  lofty  ; 
strong  robust  oaks,  and  immense  pines  sufficient  for  all  the 
fleets  of  Europe,  here  grow  old,  and  perish  on  their  native  soil ; 
from  which  they  have  never  yet  been  drawn  even  by  the  hand 
of  industry.*  One  is  surprised  to  find  every  where  in  these 
immense  forests,  the  traces  of  conflagrations.  These  accidents 
are  sometimes  occasioned  by  the  imprudence  of  travellers,  who 
light  a  fire  when  they  go  to  sleep,  and  neglect  afterwards  to 
extinguish  it.  Little  attention  is  paid  them  when  the  woods 
alone  are  the  victims,  but  as  there  are  always  some  cultivated 
parts,  the  fire  often  reaches  the  fences,  by  which  the  fields  are 
surrounded,  and  sometimes  the  houses  themselves,  which  is 
inevitable  ruin  to  the  cultivators. 

I  recollect  that  during  my  stay  at  Monticello,  from  which 
one  may  discover  an  extent  of  thirty  or  forty  leagues  of  wood, 
I  saw  several  conflagrations  three  or  four  leagues  distant  from 
each  other,  which  continued  burning  until  a  heavy  rain  fell 
luckily  and  extinguished  them.f  We  arrived  at  Mr.  Gris- 
by's  a  little  before  five  o'clock,  having  met  with  nothing 
on  the  road  but  a  wild  turkey,  which  rose  so  far  off,  that  it  was 
impossible  to  find  it  again.  The  house  was  not  large,  but  neat 
and  commodious ;  we  found  it  already  taken  up  by  other  tra 
vellers,  to  whom  we  assuredly  owed  every  token  of  respect,  if 


*  The  quality  of  the  American  oak  is  found  by  repeated  experience 
to  be  by  no  means  equal  to,  or  so  durable  as  that  of  Britain.  A  gene 
ral  survey  of  the  American  woods  was  taken  by  order  of  the  govern 
ment  of  England,  previous  to  the  war,  and  the  different  qualities  as 
certained  by  the  surveyors,  who,  on  their  general  report,  gave  the  pre 
ference  to  the  southern  oak  on  the  Apalachians,  and  in  the  interior  of 
Georgia  and  Florida ;  but  in  the  English  yards,  even  the  Dantzick 
plank,  which  grows  in  Silesia,  and  that  of  Stettin  is  still  preferred  to 
the  American. — Trans. 

|  Conflagrations  which  take  their  rise  in  this  manner,  sometimes 
spread  to  a  prodigious  extent  in  America,  in  the  morasses,  as  well  as 
in  the  woods  ;  in  travelling  from  Easton  on  the  Delaware  over  the 
Musconetgung  mountains  in  the  Upper  Jersey,  in  1782, 1  saw  im 
mense  tracts  of  country  lying  in  ashes  from  one  of  these  accidental 
fires  ;  and,  during  the  same  summer,  Philadelphia  was  sometimes  co 
vered  with  smoke,  from  a  vast  morass  which  had  taken  fire  in  the  Jer 
seys,  and  kept  burning  to  a  great  depth  from  the  surface,  and  for  an 
extent  of  many  miles  around,  for  several  months ;  the  progress  of 
which  could  not  be  stopped  by  the  large  trenches  dug  by  the  labour  of 
the  whole  country,  nor  until  it  was  extinguished  by  the  autumnal  rains, 
— Trms. 


m  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

pre-eminence  betwixt  travellers  were  to  be  measured  by  the 
length  of  their  respective  journies. 

The  other  guests  were  a  healthy  good  humoured  young  man 
of  eight  and  twenty,  who  set  out  from  Philadelphia  with  a 
pretty  wife  of  twenty,  and  a  little  child  in  her  arms,  to  settle 
five  hundred  miles  beyond  the  mountains,  in  a  country  lately 
inhabited,  bordering  on  the  Ohio,  called  the  country  of  Ken 
tucky.  His  whole  retinue  was  a  horse,  which  carried  his  wife 
and  child.  We  were  astonished  at  the  easy  manner  with  which 
he  proceeded  on  his  expedition,  and  took  the  liberty  of  men 
tioning  our  surprise  to  him.  He  told  us  that  the  purchase  of 
good  land  in  Pennsylvania  was  very  extravagant,  that  provi 
sions  were  too  dear,  and  the  inhabitants  too  numerous,  in  con 
sequence  of  which  he  thought  it  more  beneficial  to  purchase 
for  about  fifty  guineas  the  grant  of  a  thousand  acres  of  land 
in  Kentucky.  This  territory  had  been  formerly  given  to  a  co 
lonel  of  militia,  until  the  king  of  England  thought  proper  to 
order  the  distribution  of  those  immense  countries ;  part  of 
which  was  sold,  and  the  other  reserved  to  recompense  the 
American  troops  who  had  served  in  Canada.*  But,  said  I? 

*  The  author  means  the  soldiers  who  served  in  Canada  against  the 
French  in  the  war  before  the  last.  Kentucky  is  at  present  peopled  by 
above  fifty  thousand  settlers,  and  is  on  the  point  of  being  admitted  into 
the  union,  as  an  independent  state.  Kentucky  is  a  settlement  on  the 
creek,  or  rather  river  of  that  name,  which  falls  into  the  Ohio,  and  is 
627|  miles  distant  from  Fort  Pitt ;  but  is  extending  in  every  direction 
over  a  tract  of  the  finest  and  most  fertile  country  in  the  world  ;  and  as 
it  is  from  the  interior  settlements  of  this  vast  country,  that  America 
will  derive  her  future  greatness,  and  establish  new  empires  to  rival, 
and  perhaps  outdo  the  ancient  world,  I  hope  I  shall  be  pardoned  for 
transcribing  the  following  short  but  interesting  account  of  the  banks 
of  the  Ohio  from  Captain  Hutchin's  Topographical  Description  of 
that  country,  accompanying  his  maps — "  The  lands  upon  the  Ohio, 
and  its  branches,  are  differently  timbered  according  to  their  quality  and 
situation.  The  high  and  dry  lands  are  covered  with  red,  white,  and 
black  oak,  hickory,  walnut,  red  and  white  mulberry,  and  ash  trees, 
grape  vines,  &c.  The  low  and  meadow  lands  are  filled  with  syca 
more,  poplar,  red  and  white  mulberry,  cherry,  beech,  elm,  aspen,  ma 
ple,  or  sugar  trees,  grape  vines,  &c.  And  below,  or  southwardly  of 
the  rapids,  are  several  large  cedar  and  cypress  swamps,  where  the 
cedar  and  cypress  trees  grow  to  a  remarkable  size,  and  where  also  is 
great  abundance  of  canes,  such  as  grow  in  South-Carolina.  There  is 
a  great  variety  of  game,  viz.  buffaloes,  bear,  deer,  &c.  as  well  as 
ducks,  geese,  swans,  turkeys,  pheasants,  partridges,  &c.  which  abound 
in  every  part  of  this  country.  The  Ohio,  and  the  rivers  emptying  into 
it,  afford  green,  and  other  turtle,  and  fish  of  various  sorts ;  particular 
ly  carp,  sturgeon,  perch  and  catfish ;  the  two  latter  of  an  uncommon 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  253 

where  are  the  cattle  ?  The  implements  of  husbandry  with 
which  you  must  begin  to  clear  the  land  you  have  purchased  ? 
In  the  country  itself,  replied  he.  I  carry  nothing  with  me, 

size  ;  viz.  perch  from  eight  to  twelve  pounds  weight,  and  catfish  from 
fifty  to  one  hundred  pounds  weight.  The  country  on  both  sides  of  the 
Ohio,  extending  south-easterly  and  south-westerly  from  Fort  Pitt  to 
the  Mississippi,  and  watered  by  the  Ohio  river  and  its  branches,  con- 
tains  at  least  a  million  of  square  miles,  and  it  may  with  truth  be  affirm 
ed,  that  no  part  of  the  globe  is  blessed  with  a  more  healthful  air  or 
climate  ;  watered  with  more  navigable  rivers,  and  branches  communi 
cating  with  the  Atlantic  ocean,  by  the  rivers  Potomac,  James,  Rappa- 
hannock,  Mississippi,  and  St.  Lawrence ;  or  capable  of  producing, 
with  less  labour  and  expense,  wheat,  Indian  corn,  buckwheat,  rye, 
oats,  barley,  flax,  hemp,  tobacco,  rice,  silk,  pot-ash,  &c.  than  the 
country  under  consideration ;  and  it  may  be  added,  that  no  soil  can 
yield  larger  crops  of  red  and  white  clover,  and  other  useful  grass,  than 
this  does."  Colonel  Gordon,  in  his  journal,  gives  the  following  de 
scription  of  this  soil  and  climate  :  "  The  country  on  the  Ohio,  &c. 
is  every  where  pleasant,  with  large  level  spots  of  rich  land,  remarka 
bly  healthy.  One  general  remark  of  this  nature  may  serve  for  the 
whole  tract  comprehended  between  the  western  skirts  of  the  Allegany 
mountains,  beginning  at  Fort  Ligonier,  thence  bearing  south-westerly 
to  the  distance  of  500  miles  opposite  to  the  Ohio  falls,  then  crossing 
them  northerly  to  the  heads  of  the  rivers  that  empty  themselves  into 
the  Ohio  ;  thence  east  along  the  ridge  that  separates  the  lakes 
and  Ohio's  streams  to  French  creek,  which  is  opposite  to  the  above 
mentioned  Fort  Ligonier  northerly.  This  country  may,  from  a  proper 
knowledge,  be  affirmed  to  be  the  most  healthy,  the  most  pleasant,  the 
most  commodious,  and  most  fertile  spot  of  earth  known  to  European 
people"  To  which  may  be  added  the  following  extract  of  a  letter  ad 
dressed  to  the  Earl  of  Hillsborough,  in  the  year  1772,  then  Secretary 
of  State  for  the  North  American  department. 

"  No  part  of  North  America  will  require  less  encouragement  for  the 
production  of  naval  stores,  and  raw  materials  for  manufactures  in  Eu 
rope,  and  for  supplying  the  West-India  islands  with  lumber,  provisions, 
&c.,  than  the  country  of  the  Ohio,  and  for  the  following  reasons  : 
First,  the  lands  are  excellent,  the  climate  temperate,  the  native  grapes, 
silk- worms  and  mulberry-trees  abound  every  where  ;  hemp,  hops,  and 
rye  grow  spontaneously  in  the  vallies  and  low  lands  ;  lead  and  iron  ore, 
coal  also,  are  plenty  in  the  hills  ;  salt  and  fresh  springs  are  innumera 
ble  ;  and  no  soil  is  better  adapted  to  the  culture  of  tobacco,  flax,  and 
cotton,  than  that  of  the  Ohio.  Secondly,  the  country  is  well  watered 
by  several  navigable  rivers  communicating  with  each  other  ;  by  which, 
and  a  short  land  carriage,  the  produce  of  the  lands  of  the  Ohio  can 
even  now  (in  the  year  1772)  be  sent  cheaper  to  the  sea-port  town  of 
Alexandria,  on  the  Potomac,  in  Virginia,  than  any  kind  of  merchan 
dize  is  sent  from  Northampton  to  London.  Thirdly,  the  Ohio  is,  at 
all  seasons  of  the  year,  navigable  with  large  boats  like  the  west  coim- 


254  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

but  I  have  money  in  my  pocket,  and  shall  want  for  nothing, 
I  began  to  relish  the  resolution  of  this  young  man,  who  was 
active,  vigorous,  and  free  from  care;  but  the  pretty  wo- 


try  barges,  rowed  only  by  four  or  five  men  ;  and  from  the  month  of 
February  to  April,  large  ships  may  be  built  on  the  Ohio,  and  sent  to 
sea,  laden  with  hemp,  iron,  flax,  silk,  rice,  tobacco,  cotton,  pot-ashes, 
&c.  Fourthly,  corn,  beef,  ship-plank,  and  other  useful  articles  can 
be  sent  down  the  stream  of  Ohio  to  West-Florida,  and  from  thence  to 
the  West-Indies,  much  cheaper,  and  in  better  order  than  from  New- 
York,  or  Philadelphia.  Fifthly,  hemp,  tobacco,  iron,  and  such  bulky 
articles  may  also  be  sent  down  the  Ohio  to  the  sea,  at  least  50  per  cent, 
cheaper  than  these  articles  were  ever  carried  by  a  land  carriage  of  only 
sixty  miles  in  Pennsylvania  where  waggonage  is  cheaper  than  in  any 
other  part  of  North-America.  Sixthly,  the  expense  of  transporting 
European  manufactures  from  the  sea  to  the  Ohio,  will  not  be  so  much 
as  is  now  paid,  and  must  ever  be  paid,  to  a  great  part  of  the  counties 
of  Pennsylvania,  Virginia,  and  Maryland:,  as  there  is  scarce  a  place 
between  Fort  Pitt  and  the  rapids,  a  distance  of  705  computed  miles, 
where  good  roads  may  not  be  made,  on  the  banks  which  are  not  liable 
to  crumble  away,  and  horses  employed  in  drawing  up  large  barges, 
as  is  done  on  the  margin  of  the  Thames  in  England,  and  the  Seine  in 
France,  against  a  stream  remarkably  gentle,  except  in  high  freshets. 
Whenever  the  farmers  or  merchants  of  Ohio  shall  properly  understand 
the  business  of  transportation,  they  will  build  schooners,  sloops,  &c. 
on  the  Ohio,  suitable  for  the  West-India  or  European  markets  ;  or,  by 
having  black  walnut,  cherry-tree,  oak,  &c.  properly  sawed  for  foreign 
markets,  and  formed  into  rafts,  as  is  now  practised  by  the  settlers  near 
the  upper  parts  of  the  Delaware  river,  and  thereon  stow  their 
hemp,  tobacco,  &c.  and  proceed  with  them  to  New-Orleans.  It  may 
not  be  amiss  perhaps,  to  observe,  that  large  quantities  of  flour  are 
made  in  the  distant  (western)  counties  of  Pennsylvania,  and 
sent  by  an  expensive  land  carriage  to  the  city  of  Philadelphia,  and 
from  thence  shipped  to  South-Carolina,  and  to  East  and  West-Florida, 
there  being  little  or  no  wheat  raised  in  these  provinces.  The  river 
Ohio  seems  kindly  designed  by  nature  as  the  channel  through  which 
the  two  Floridas  may  be  supplied  with  flour,  not  only  for  their  own 
consumption,  but  for  the  carrying  on  an  extensive  commerce  with  Ja 
maica  [the  Floridas  were  then  in  the  possession  of  England]  and  the 
Spanish  settlements  in  the  Bay  of  Mexico.  Millstones  in  abundance 
are  to  be  obtained  in  the  hills  near  the  Ohio,  and  the  country  is  every 
where  well  watered  with  large  and  constant  springs,  and  streams  for 
grist  and  other  mills.  The  passage  from  Philadelphia  to  Pensacola, 
is  seldom  made  in  less  than  a  month,  and  sixty  shillings  sterling  per  ton 
freight  (consisting  of  sixteen  barrels)  is  usually  paid  for  flour,  &c.  thither. 
Boats  carrying  from  800  to  1000  barrels  of  flour  may  go  in  about  the 
same  time  from  the  Ohio,  (even  from  Pittsburgh,)  as  from  Phila 
delphia  to  Pensacola,  and  for  half  the  above  freight ;  the  Ohio  mer 
chants  would  be  able  to  deliver  flour,  &c.  there  in  much  better  order 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

man,  twenty  years  of  age  only,  I  doubted  not  but  she  was 
in  despair  at  the  sacrifice  she  had  made ;  and  I  endea 
voured  to  discover,  in  her  features  and  looks  the  secret 
sentiments  of  her  soul.  Though  she  had  retired  into  a  lit 
tle  chamber,  to  make  room  for  us,  she  frequently  came 
into  that  where  we  were  ;  and  I  saw,  not  without  astonish 
ment,  that  her  natural  charms  were  even  embellished  by  the 
serenity  of  her  mind.  She  often  caressed  her  husband  and 
her  child,  and  appeared  to  me  admirably  disposed  to  fulfil  the 
first  object  of  every  infant  colony — "  to  increase  and  multi 
ply."  Whilst  supper  was  preparing,  and  we  were  talking  of 
travels,  and  examining  on  the  map  the  road  our  emigrants 
were  to  follow^  I  recollected  that  we  had  as  yet  an  hour's  day 
light,  and  that  it  was  just  the  time  I  had  seen  the  wood-hens, 
of  which,  they  assured  me,  there  was  plenty  in  the  neighbour 
hood,  and  that  there  is  a  critical  moment  in  hunting  as  well  as 
love.  I  took  my  fowling-piece,  therefore,  and  proceeded  to 
the  woods ;  but  instead  of  wood-hens,  I  found  only  a  rabbit, 
which  I  wounded,  but  it  rolled  down  into  a  bottom,  where  I 
lost  sight  of  it,  till  it  was  discovered  by  Mr.  Grisby's  dogs, 
which,  accustomed  to  the  report  of  a  gun,  found  it  in  a  hol 
low  tree,  to  the  top  of  which  it  would  have  scrambled  had  its 
leg  not  been  broken.  The  rabbits  of  America  differ  from 
those  of  Europe ;  they  do  not  burrow,  but  take  refuge  in  hol 
low  trees,  which  they  climb  like  cats,  and  often  to  a  very  con* 
siderable  height.  Content  with  my  victory,  I  returned  to  the 
house,  but  stopped  some  time  to  hear,  at  sunset,  two  thrushes, 
which  seemed  to  challenge  each  other  to  the  song,  like  the 

than  from  Philadelphia,  and  without  incurring  the  damage  and  delay 
of  the  sea,  the  charges  of  ensurance,  and  risk  in  time  of  war,  &c.  or 
from  thence  to  Pensacola.  This  is  not  mere  speculation  ;  for  it  is  a 
fact,  that  about  the  year  1746,  there  was  a  great  scarcity  of  provisions 
at  New-Organs  ;  and  the  French  settlements  at  the  Illinois,  small  as 
they  then  wtre,  sent  thither,  in  one  winter,  upwards  of  eight  hundred 
thousand  weight  of  flour."  Mr.  Lewis  Evans,  in  the  Analysis  to  his 
Map  of  the  Middle  Colonies  of  North- America,  in  the  year  1 755, 
says,  that  "  Vessels  from  100  to  200  tons  burthen,  by  taking  advantage 
of  the  spring  floods,  rmy  go  from  Pittsburgh  to  the  sea  with  safety,  as 
then  the  falls,  rifts,  and  shoals  are  covered  to  an  equality  with  the  rest 
of  the  river."  To  which  Captain  Hutchins,  the  present  Geographer- 
General  to  the  United  States,  addsi  "  And  though  the  distance  is  up 
wards  of  two  thousand  miles  from  Fort  Pitt  to  the  sea,  yet  as  there  are 
wo  obstructions  to  prevent  vessels  from  proceeding  both  day  and  night, 
I  am  persuaded  that  this  extraordinary  inland  voyage  may  be  per 
formed,  during  the  season  of  the  floods,  by  rowing,  in  sixteen  or 
seventeen  days." — Here  surely  is  a  rational  and  ample  field  for  the 
well  regulated  imagination  of  tho  philosopher  and  politician ! ! ! — 
Trans, 


^56  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

shepherds  of  Theocritus.  This  bird  ought,  in  my  opinion,  to 
be  considered  as  the  nightingale  of  America ;  it  resembles 
those  of  Europe  in  its  form,  colour,  and  habits ;  but  is  twice 
as  large.  Its  song  is  similar  to  that  of  our  thrush,  but  so  va 
ried  and  so  much  more  perfect,  that,  if  we  except  the  uniform 
plaintive  notes  of  the  European  nightingale,  they  might  be  ta 
ken  for  each  other.  It  is  a  bird  of  passage,  like  the  mocking 
bird,  and  like  it,  also,  sometimes  remains  through  the  winter. 

At  my  return  to  the  house,  supper  was  the  sole   object; 
about  which  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Grisby  took  great  pains,  whilst  their 
daughters,  about  sixteen  or  seventeen,  who  were  perfect  beau 
ties,  were  laying  the  cloth.     I  asked  Mr.  Grisby  to  sup  with 
us,  but  he  excused  himself,  by  assuring  us  that  he  was  yet  em 
ployed  in  our  service;  nor  was  his  attention  useless,  for  we 
had  an  excellent  supper;  and  though  whiskey  was  our  only 
drink,  we  contrived  to  convert  it  into  tolerable  toddy.     Break 
fast  was  ready  betimes  the  next  morning,  and  corresponded 
with  our  supper.     Mr.  Grisby,  who   had   nothing  to  do,  sat 
down  to  table  with  us.     He  had  a  horse  saddled,  that  he  might 
accompany  us  as  a  guide  as  far  as  Greenly  Ferry,  where  we  were 
to  repass  the  Fluvanna;  but  I  was  informed  that  one  of  the  ser 
vant's  horses  was  so  much  wounded  in  the  withers,  that  it  was  im 
possible  to  mount  him.    This  accident  was  the  more  inconveni 
ent,  as  I  had  already  been  obliged  to  leave  one  at  Mr.  Jefferson's, 
so  that  I  had  no  fresh  horse  to  substitute.     On  applying  to  Mr. 
Grisby,  he  told  me  that  the  only  horse  he  had  which  could 
answer  my  purpose,  was  the  one  he  generally  rode,  and  which 
he  was  going  to  make  use  of  to  conduct  us,  but  that  he  would 
willingly  oblige  me  with  it,  and  take  mine  in  its  place.     On 
my  assuring  him  that  I  would  give  him  any  thing  he  thought, 
proper  in  return,  he  went  to  look  at  my  horse,  and  when  he 
came  back  told  me,  that  when  cured,  he  thought  he  might  be 
worth  his  own,  and  that  he  left  the  difference  entirely  to  my 
self.     As  each  of  them  might  be  worth  ten  or  twelve  guineas, 
I  gave  him  two  in  exchange,  and  he  was  perfectly  contented. 
I  had  just  before  asked  for  the  bill,  and  when  he  Declined  let 
ting  me  have  it,  I  gave  him  four  guineas.     He  received  them 
with  satisfaction,  assuring  me  it  was  double  the  sum  he  could 
have  charged.    At  last  we  were  obliged  to  take  our  leave  of 
this  good  house,  but  not  of  Mr.  Grisby.  who  had  taken  another 
horse  to  accompany  us.     On  the  road  he  showed  us  two  plan 
tations  which  he  had  occupied  successively,  before  he  settled 
on  the  one  he  at  present  cultivates.     He  had  left  them  in  good 
condition,  and  sold  them  at  the  rate  of  twelve  or  thirteen  shil 
lings,  Virginia  currency,  an  acre,  about  ten  livres  of  our  mo 
ney  (8s.i  English.)     We  saw  several  other  settlements  in  the 
woods,  all  of  which  were  situated  on   the   banks  of 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  257 

stream,  whose  source  was  not  far  distant.  The  peach  trees, 
which  they  take  care  to  plant,  and  the  Judas  tree  (or  filiquas- 
frum,  but  different  from  that  which  produces  the  balm  of  Mec 
ca)  which  grows  naturally  at  the  water's  edge,  were  both  in 
flower,  and  made  a  charming  contrast  to  the  immense  firs  and 
oaks,  in  the  centre  of  which  were  situated  these  new  planta 
tions. 

It  was  near  ten  o'clock  when  we  arrived  at  the  ferry,  and  as 
we  approached,  still  following  the  course  of  the  river,  I  saw 
an  animal,  to  which  I  was  a  stranger,  returning  from  the  side 
of  the  river,  and  endeavouring  to  reach  the  wood.  I  pushed 
my  horse  towards  it,  hoping  to  frighten  and  make  it  climb  a 
tree,  for  I  took  it  for  a  racoon  ;  in  fact  it  mounted  the  nearest 
tree,  but  very  slowly  and  awkwardly.  I  had  no  great  difficulty 
in  killing  it,  for  it  did  not  even  endeavour  to  hide  itself,  like 
the  squirrel,  behind  the  large  branches.  When  I  had  taken  it 
from  the  dogs,  among  which  it  struggled  hard,  and  had  bitten 
them  pretty  sharply ;  on  examining  it  with  attention,  I  disco 
vered  it  to  be  the  monax,  or  the  marmoset  of  America.  In  its 
form,  far,  and  colour  it  resembled  very  much  the  musk-rat ;  but 
it  is  larger  and  differs  essentially  in  the  tail,  which  is  short 
and  rough.  Like  the  musk-rat,  however,  its  ribs  are  so  short 
and  flexible,  that  they  might  be  mistaken  for  gristles,  so  that 
though  it  is  much  bulkier  than  a  hare,  it  can  pass  through  a 
hole  of  not  above  two  inches  in  diameter. 

Greenly  Ferry  derives  its  name  from  the  proprietor,  and  is 
situated  between  two  steep  banks.  We  passed  it  in  three 
trips,  and  parting  with  Mr.  Grisby,  depended  entirely  on 
our  own  industry  to  find  the  road  to  a  very  steep,  but 
little  frequented  gap,  the  only  passage  by  which  we  could  get 
out  of  the  mountains.  They  told  us,  at  the  ferry,  that  we 
should  find  but  one  house,  three  miles  from  thence,  and  at  the 
foot  of  the  very  mountain  we  were  to  climb.  A  little  path 
conducted  us  to  this  house :  after  asking  new  instructions,  we 
followed  another  path,  and  began  to  ascend,  not  without  dif 
ficulty,  for  in  general  the  acclivity  was  so  rapid,  that  we  were 
obliged  to  stop  our  horses  to  give  them  breath.  This  ascent, 
which  formed  the  road,  is  at  least  three  miles  long,  by  which 
you  may  judge  of  the  height  of  these  mountains ;  for  in  the 
space  of  an  hundred  miles,  this  is  the  least  steep  of  any  which 
compose  what  are  called  the  Blue  Ridges.  Arrived  at  the 
summit,  we  enjoyed  the  reward  generally  bestowed  on  such 
labours.  A  magnificent,  but  savage  prospect,  presented  itself 
to  our  eyes ;  we  saw  the  mountains  which  form  the  North 
Ridge,  and  those  which,  crossing  from  one  chain  to  the  other^ 
sometimes  unite  the  Blue  Ridges.  In  one  of  these  traverses 
of  mountains,  the  Natural  Bridge  is  placed.  It  is  to  be  ob- 

33 


•258  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA, 

served,  that  I  speak  here  only  of  the  view  to  the  north,  for  we 
had  not  the  advantage  of  enjoying  the  double  prospect ;  some 
neighbouring  summits,  and  the  height  of  trees,  prevented  us 
from  extending  our  view  to  the  southward.     The  descent  was 
not  less  rapid  than  the  ascent ;  its  length  was  also  three  miles. 
We  judged  it  necessary,  for  the  relief  of  our  horses  and  our 
own  safety,  to  alight  and  walk ;  though  the   stones,  which 
rolled  under  our  feet,  rendered  it  very  incommodious.      The 
dogs,  which  were  not  so  fatigued  by  this  inconvenience  as  our 
selves,  beat  the  woods,  while  we  walked  slowly  on,  and  two 
hundred  paces  from  us  they  sprang  five  wild  turkeys ;  but  as 
these  birds  directed  their  flight  towards  a  steep  hill  behind  us? 
we  did  not  thing  proper  to  follow  them.     We  were  almost  at 
the  bottom  of  the  mountain  when  we  began  to  perceive  the 
horizon;  but  this  horizon  discovered  nothing  but  woods  and 
mountains,  far  less  elevated  than  those  we  were  leaving,  if  we 
except  three  summits  known  by  the  name,  of  the  Peaks  of  Ot 
ter,  which  are  very  lofty,  and  advance  from  the  Blue  Ridges  as 
a  kind  of  counter-guard.     In  general,  all  the  country  from  the 
Blue  Ridges  to  the  sources  of  the  Apamatock,  may  be  consi 
dered  as  a  glacis  composed  of  little  mountains,  beginning  at 
the  foot  of  the  Blue  Ridges,  and  continually  diminishing.     Of 
this  the  best  charts  of  Virginia  give  not  the  least  indication, 
so  that  it  is  impossible,  by  the  inspection  of  them,  to  form  a 
just  idea  of  the  nature  of  this  country. 

It  was  half  past  one  o'clock,  and  we  had  rode  sixteen  miles  in 
very  bad  roads,  when  we  arrived  at  the  first  house  at  the  foot  of 
the  gap ;  but  as  it  was  an  indifferent  hut,  we  were  obliged  to 
proceed  two  miles  farther,  to  a  planter's  of  the  name  of  Lam 
bert,  who  received  us  with  every  mark  of  politeness.  He  gave 
us  cakes  and  milk,  for  he  had  neither  bread  nor  biscuit ;  and, 
whilst  our  horses  were  feeding,  he  entertained  us  with  gay, 
joyous  conversation.  Mr.  Lambert  is  a  kind  of  phenomenon 
in  America,  where  longevity  is  very  rare ;  he  is  eighty-three 
years  of  age,  and  scarcely  appears  to  be  fifty-five ;  he  is  well 
known  in  the  country,  for  there  is  hardly  a  trade  he  has  not 
followed,  nor  a  part  of  it  he  has  not  lived  in.  He  is  now  a 
husbandman,  and  resides  at  a  very  fine  plantation,  which  he 
has  cleared,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains.  His  wife,  who  is 
only  sixty-five,  looks  much  older  than  he  does ;  his  sons  are 
yet  young ;  one  is  a  captain  in  the  Virginia  Legion,  and  formed 
his  company  himself  in  the  beginning  of  the  war.  It  was 
then  composed  of  sixty-three  men,  all  enlisted  in  the  neigh 
bourhood  ;  and  at  the  end  of  six  campaigns  all  the  sixty-three 
are  living,  some  few  of  them  only  having  been  wounded.  At 
five  we  mounted  again  to  proceed  ten  miles  farther,  to  the 
house  of  a  Captain  Muller.  who,  like  Mr.  Lambert,  does  not 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  259 

keep  a  public  house,  but  willingly  receives  the  few  travellers 
who  pass  by  this  unfrequented  road.  Although  they  assured 
us  we  could  not  possibly  miss  the  road,  they  would  more  pro 
perly  have  said  it  was  impossible  to  find  it ;  for  we  deemed  it 
very  fortunate  to  lose  ourselves  but  twice,  and  at  length,  after 
dark,  we  arrived  at  Mr.  Muller's.  He  is  a  man  about  sixty, 
six  feet  high,  and  bulky  in  proportion,  very  loquacious,  but  a 
good  kind  of  man,  attached  to  his  country,  and  a  great  news 
monger.  He  told  us  he  would  do  his  best  to  give  us  some 
thing  for  supper,  but  that  he  could  offer  us  no  other  lodging 
than  the  room  in  which  he  received  us,  where  he  would  order 
them  to  place  our  beds.  The  room  was  spacious  and  clean, 
but  already  occupied  by  a  sick  person,  whom  he  could  not  dis 
turb,  and  whom  he  begged  us  to  leave  in  the  little  corner  he 
possessed.  This  was  an  unfortunate  old  man  of  eighty,  who, 
two  days  before,  travelling  in  the  neighbourhood,  had  been 
half  devoured  by  a  great  bitch,  whose  whelps  he  had  impru 
dently  approached ;  she  had  lacerated  one  of  his  arms  and 
thighs.  Mr.  Muller  bestowed  on  him  every  possible  care,  and 
Mrs.  Muller  herself  dressed  his  wounds.  This  poor  man  slept 
all  the  evening,  but  in  the  night  he  complained  much,  and 
sometimes  awakened  us.  On  my  asking  him,  the  next  morn 
ing,  how  he  found  himself,  he  answered  mighty  weak.*  Be 
fore  we  went  away  I  desired  to  have  the  bill,  but  Mr.  Muller 
not  choosing  to  present  any,  I  begged  him  to  accept  of  a  cou 
ple  of  guineas,  desiring,  at  the  same  time,  to  know  if  it  was 
enough.  "  Too  much,"  replied  he,  "you  come  from  France  to 
my  country  to  support  and  defend  it ;  I  ought  to  receive  you 
better  and  take  nothing,  but  I  am  only  a  poor  countryman, 
and  not  in  a  condition  to  demonstrate  my  gratitude.  If  I 
were  not  ill,  (and  indeed  he  was  asthmatic,)  I  would  mount 
my  horse  and  attend  you  to  the  field  of  battle." 

The  little  resource  we  had  found  in  this  house,  and  the  ne 
cessity  of  dividing  the  long  journey  we  had  to  make,  determi 
ned  us  to  set  out  very  early,  and  breakfast  at  New-London,  a 
little  town,  two  miles  from  hence.  The  difficulty  of  finding 
the  road  still  remaining,  I  luckily  met  a  man  in  the  court-yard, 
just  ready  to  mount,  who  relieved  us  from  this  anxiety.  He, 
was  an  old  captain  of  the  Virginia  Legion,  whom  I  had  seen  ar 
rive  in  the  evening  in  company  with  two  tall  young  ladies,  in 
huge  gauze  bonnets,  covered  with  ribands,  and  dressed  in 
such  a  manner  as  formed  a  perfect  contrast  to  the  simplicity 

*  Mighty  little,  mighty  few,  mighty  weak,  &c.  are  favourite  ex 
pressions  in  America. — Trans. 


369  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

of  the  house  in  which  they  were.*  These,  I  understood,  were 
Mr.  Muller's  daughters,  returned  from  supping  in  the  neighbour 
hood  ;  but  I  was  careful  not  to  speak  to  them,  as  I  doubted 
not  but  we  had  taken  possession  of  the  beds  destined  for  these 
fine  ladies  and  their  company,  and  was  in  great  terror  least 
French  gallantry  should  compel  us  to  resign  them.  I  know 
not  how  they  managed,  but  they  appeared  again  in  the  morn 
ing  and  were  far  from  handsome. 

The  Captain  had  been  to  sleep  a  mile  from  hence,  at  a  sister's 
of  Mr.  Muller,  and  was  mounting  his  horse  to  return  to  New- 
London,  whither  he  offered  to  conduct  us,  and  to  provide  our 
breakfast  as  he  kept  a  tavern.  I  accepted  both  his  proposals, 
and  we  travelled  the  distance  often  miles  very  agreeably  ;  the 
country,  like  that  through  which  we  passed  the  preceding  eve 
ning  being  diversified  with  very  pretty  plantations.  New-Lon 
don,  where  we  arrived  at  ten  in  the  morning,  is  an  infant  town, 
but  already  pretty  considerable,  for  there  are  at  least  seventy 
or  eighty  houses.  There  is  likewise  a  military  magazine  esta 
blished  here,  and  several  workshops  for  repairing  arms.  Its 
situation,  in  the  middle  of  the  woods,  far  distant  from  the  seat 
of  war,  as  well  as  commerce,  does  not  require  it  should  be  for 
tified,  but  nature  has  prepared  every  thing  to  make  it  a  strong 
place.  Situated  upon  a  little  platform,  surrounded  by  a  glacis, 
the  declivity  of  which  is  exactly  what  could  be  wished,  this 
little  town  might  be  fortified  at  a  small  expense,  and  defended 


*  The  rage  for  dress  among  the  women  in  America,  in  the  very 
height  of  the  miseries  of  war,  was  beyond  all  bounds  ;  nor  was  it  con 
fined  to  the  great  towns,  it  prevailed  equally  on  the  sea-coasts,  and  in 
the  woods  and  solitudes  of  the  vast  extent  of  country,  from  Florida  to 
New-Hampshire.  In  travelling  into  the  interior  parts  of  Virginia  I 
spent  a  delicious  day  at  an  inn,  at  the  ferry  of  Shenaridoah,  or  the  Ca- 
tacton  Mountains,  with  the  most  enchanting,  accomplished  and  volup 
tuous  girls,  the  daughters  of  the  landlord,  a  native  of  Boston,  trans 
planted  thither  ;  who,  with  all  the  gifts  of  nature,  possessed  the  art 
of  dress  not  unworthy  of  Parisian  milliners,  and  went  regularly  three 
times  a  week  to  the  distance  of  seven  miles,  to  attend  the  lessons  of 
O:  e  de  Grace,  a  French  dancing-master,  who  was  making  a  fortune  in 
the  country.  In  one  of  my  journies,  too,  I  met  with  a  young  French' 
man,  who  was  travelling  on  the  business  of  the  celebrated  M.  de  Beau- 
marchais,  and  was  uncommonly  successful  in  his  amours,  of  which 
I  speak  from  personal  knowledge.  On  my  inquiring  the  secret  of  his 
success,  he  assured  me,  and  put  it  beyond  a  doubt,  that  his  passe-par 
tout,  or  master  key,  consisted  in  a  fashionable  assortment  of  ribands, 
and  other  small  articles  contained  in  a  little  box,  from  which,  in  diffi 
cult  cases  he  opened  an  irresistible  and  never  failing  battery. — Trans 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  261 

by  a  trifling  garrison ;  we  left  it  about  twelve  o'clock,  and 
had  twenty-four  miles  to  go  to  the  only  house  where  we  could 
find  a  good  lodging.  It  was  not  a  tavern,  but  the  proprietor, 
Mr.  Hunter,  received  strangers  with  pleasure.  The  difference 
between  a  real  tavern,  and  a  hospitable  house  of  reception,  is 
greatly  to  the  advantage  of  the  traveller  ;  for  in  America,  as 
in  England,  publicans  pay  heavy  taxes,  and  indemnify  them 
selves  by  their  exorbitant  charges,  Mr.  Hunter  received  us 
well,  and  in  a  very  clean  house.  We  set  out  early  the  next 
morning,  and  after  riding  eight  miles,  always  in  dry,  arid 
woods,  we  stopped  to  breakfast  at  Mr.  Pattison's.  He  is  a  fat 
man,  about  forty-five,  disabled  in  his  legs  since  he  was  two 
years  old,  and  so  helpless  that  he  cannot  transport  himself  from 
one  place  to  another,  but  by  pushing  his  chair.  One  would 
hardly  think  that  a  man  afflicted  with  such  an  infirmity  should 
choose  to  live  in  the  midst  of  woods,  where  he  has  no  company 
but  one  white  man  servant,  and  negroes  of  each  sex.  I  believe 
him  impotent  in  more  than  one  respect,  for  he  has  lived  in  a 
constant  state  of  celibacy,  and  his  ostensible  imbecility  would 
have  been  no  obstacle  in  a  country  where  every  body  marries. 
After  we  had  proceeded  twenty  miles  farther,  we  stopped,  at 
four  o'clock,  at  a  Scotsman's  of  the  name  of  Johnson,  who  is 
the  most  ridiculous  personage  imaginable.  He  pronounces 
English  in  so  unintelligible  a  manner,  that  Mr.  Dillon  asked 
him,  very  ingenuously,  what  language  he  was  speaking.  As 
Mr.  Johnson  was  an  ill-tempered  fellow,  and  a  little  drunk,  I 
foresaw  that  this  question  could  not  succeed,  and  would  turn 
out  to  our  disadvantage,  on  quitting  this  sort  of  tavern.  It 
happened  as  I  imagined ;  for  after  a  stay  of  only  three-quarters 
of  an  hour,  he  was  not  ashamed  to  ask  seven  dollars  for  about 
twenty  pounds  weight  of  the  leaves  of  Indian  corn  for  our 
horses,  and  two  bowls  of  toddy  for  the  servants.  I  consoled 
myself,  like  Monsieur  de  Pourceaugnac  in  Moliere,  with  the 
satisfaction  only,  on  paying  him,  of  telling  him  my  sentiments 
of  his  behaviour,  and  went  twelve  miles  farther  to  seek  hospi 
tality  at  another  Scotsman's,  where  we  arrived  at  the  close  of 
day.  But  this  was  a  very  different  character  from  the  other. 
He  was  an  old  man  of  seventy-two,  called  Hodnett,  who  has 
been  established  in  America  above  forty  years,  though  but 
lately  fixed  in  the  plantation  where  he  now  lives.  He  was 
eager  to  please,  polite,  and  even  inclined  to  compliment,  proud 
of  being  born  in  Europe,  and  having  past  some  time  at  Cork, 
where  he  missed,  he  told  me,  a  fine  opportunity  of  learning 
French ;  for  he  had  lived  with  several  French  merchants,  whose 
names  he  yet  remembered,  although  it  was  upwards  of  fifty 
years  ago.  He  inquired  at  least  twenty  times  of  me  if  I  knew 


SG2  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

them,  and  brought  me  an  old  book,  the  only  one  he  had  in  the 
house,  which  was  a  bad  treatise  of  geography.  It  was  doubled 
in  at  the  article  of  Cork,  and  one  might  see  that  he  often  read 
this  chapter,  as  the  paper  was  more  Ihumbed  there  than  else 
where.  Whilst  he  presented  me  with  this  book,  he  observed, 
with  an  air  of  importance,  that  in  his  opinion  it  was  the  best 
geographical  work  existing,  nor  was  it  difficult  to  perceive  that 
it  was  the  only  one  he  ever  heard  of.  I  amused  myself  how 
ever  with  assuring  him  that  he  possessed  a  real  treasure,  and 
that  he  ought  carefully  to  preserve  it.  He  went  immediately 
to  lock  it  up,  and  returned  with  a  scrap  of  illuminated  paper, 
which  represented  the  arms  and  mottos  of  the  family  of  the 
Hodnetts.  I  made  him  happy  by  declaring  they  were  known 
all  over  Europe,  and  surely  it  was  not  paying  too  dear  for  a 
good  supper  and  good  beds ;  for  the  next  morning  he  would 
not  give  us  any  bill.  I  thought  proper,  however,  to  pay 
him  handsomely ;  hoping,  at  the  same  time,  that  the  family  of 
the  Hodnetts  would  know  nothing  of  it,  nor  think  themselves 
under  the  necessity  of  adding  the  sign  of  an  ale-house  to  their 
armorial  bearings. 

It  was  on  the  23d,  but  the  heat  was  already  very  trouble 
some,  when  we  arrived  to  breakfast  at  nine  o'clock  at  Cumber 
land  court-house.  This  is  the  chief  manor-house  of  a  very 
considerable  country  ;  it  is  situated  in  a  plain  of  about  a  mile 
diameter,  sixteen  miles  from  Hodnett's.  Besides  the  court 
house,  and  a  large  tavern,  its  necessary  appendage,  there  are 
seven  or  eight  houses  inhabited  by  gentlemen  of  fortune.  I 
found  the  tavern  full  of  people,  and  understood  that  the  judges 
were  assembled  to  hold  a  court  of  claims,  that  is  to  say,  to  hear 
and  register  the  claims  of  sundry  persons,  who  had  furnished 
provisions  for  the  army.  We  know,  that  in  general,  but  par 
ticularly  in  unexpected  invasions,  the  American  troops  had  no 
established  magazines,  and  as  it  was  necessary  to  have  subsist 
ence  for  them,  provisions  and  forage  were  indiscriminately  laid 
hold  of,  on  giving  the  owners  a  receipt,  which  they  call  a  cer 
tificate.  During  the  campaign,  whilst  the  enemy  was  at  hand, 
little  attention  was  given  to  this  sort  of  loans,  which  accumu 
lated  incessantly,  without  the  sum  total  being  known,  or  any 
means  taken  to  ascertain  the  proofs.  Virginia  being  at  length 
loaded  with  these  certificates,  it  became  necessary,  sooner  or 
later,  to  liquidate  these  accounts.  The  last  assembly  of  the 
State  of  Virginia,  had  accordingly  thought  proper  to  pass  a 
bill,  authorising  the  justices  of  each  county  to  take  cognizance 
of  these  certificates,  to  authenticate  their  validity,  and  to  regis 
ter  them,  specifying  the  value  of  the  provisions  in  money,  ac 
cording  to  the  established  tariff.  I  had  the  curiosity  to  go  to 
the  court-house,  to  see  how  this  affair  was  transacted,  and  saw 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  263 

it  was  performed  with  great  order,  and  simplicity.     The  judges 
wore  their  common  clothes,  but  were  seated  on  an  elevated 
tribunal,  as  at  London  in  the  Court  of  King's  Bench  or  Com 
mon  Pleas.     One  of  them  seeing  me  standing  at  the  door  of 
the  hall,  descended  from  the  bench,  and  invited  me  to  go  and 
take  some  refreshment  at  his  house,  where  the  family  would 
entertain  me  till  the  sessions  were  finished.     I  told  him  I  was 
obliged  to  proceed  on  my  journey,  and  really  we  had  no  time 
to  lose,  for  there  yet  remained  twenty-eight  miles  to  travel,  and 
on  a  road  so  unprovided  with  every  necessary  for  travellers, 
that  though  we  intended  giving  our  horses  another  bait,  we 
could  not  find  forage  nearer  than  at  a  smith's  shop,  at  twenty 
miles  distance.     As  I  intended  therefore  staying  only  half  an 
hour  at  most,  I  seated  myself  under  some  trees ;  but  Monsieur 
D'Oyre  having  gone  into  the  house,  returned  and  told  me  there 
was  a  company  of  four  or  five  young  girls,  all  pretty  and  very 
well  dressed.     Curiosity  inducing  me  to  see  them,  my  atten 
tion  was  soon  fixed  upon  a  young  woman  of  eighteen,  who  was 
suckling  her  child.     Her  features  were  so  regular,  and  there 
was  such  decency  and  modesty  in  her  behaviour,  that  she  re 
called  to  my  mind  those  beautiful  virgins  of  Raphael,  the  mo 
del,  or  example  of  the  beau  ideal.     As  I  no  longer  permit  my 
self  to  consider  beauty  but   with  a  philosophic  eye,*  I  shall 
here  make  an  observation  which  has  occurred  to  me  in  foreign 
countries,  particularly  in  England  and  America  ;  it  is,  that  the 
beauty  of  forms  and  of  features,  the  beauty  independent  of 
grace,  motion,  and  expression,  is  oftener  found  among  the  peo 
ple  of  the  north,  or  among  their  descendants,  than  in  France, 
or  towards  the  south.     If  I  were  to  assign  the  cause  of  this  dif 
ference,  I  should  say,  that  from  some  unaccountable  reason, 
unconnected,   doubtless,  with  the  temperature  of  the  climate, 
the   youth  of  both  sexes  are  more   forward,  and   more  ripe, 
among  them  than  with  us,  from  which  it  results,  that  young 
people,  particularly  young  girls  of  twelve,  or  thirteen,  unite 
that  roundness  of  form,  freshness  of  complexion,  and  regulari 
ty  of  features,  before  they  are  modified  by  passions  and  habits. 
In  France  it  is  quite  different ;  children  are  there  very  pret 
ty  to  the  age  of  seven  or  eight  years ;  but  it  is  seldom  that  girls 


*  The  reader  will  here,  doubtless,  be  apt  to  picture  to  himself  the 
author  as  a  grey-headed  worn  out  veteran,  or  an  unimpassioned,  stoical 
member  of  the  French  Academy,  barely  remembering  "  the  days  when 
he  was  young  ;"  but  it  is  my  duty  to  undeceive  him  :  the  Marquis  de 
Chastellux  is  a  well  made,  handsome  man,  of  about  four  and  forty, 
with  eyes  full  of  intelligence  and  fire,  the  carriage  and  deportment  of  a 
man  of  rank,  and  with  a  disposition  extremely  remote  from  an  indif 
ference  to  beauty. — Trans. 


264  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

preserve  their  beauty  to  the  age  of  puberty.  This  is  the  epoch, 
however,  when  we  must  form  our  opinion  of  what  they  may 
be  ;  but  even  these  prognostics  are  often  deceitful.  This  pe 
riod  is  a  kind  of  chrysalis,  a  state  of  probation,  in  which  the 
handsome  become  ugly,  and  the  ugly  handsome.  It  is  from 
the  age  of  twenty  to  twenty-five  that  the  features  develop 
and  declare  themselves,  and  that  nature  completes  her  work, 
if  not  diverted  from  her  course  by  sickness,  but  especially  by 
the  moral  and  natural  consequences  of  marriage.  On  the  other 
hand,  our  women,  this  danger  once  over,  retain  their  beauty 
longer  than  in  any  other  country.  It  appears  as  if  their  very 
souls  were  identified  in  their  features,  and  watched  over  their 
preservation ;  not  a  movement  without  a  grace,  no  grace  with 
out  expression  ;  the  desire  of  pleasing  improves  and  perpetuates 
the  means  ;  and  nature,  rather  aided  than  counteracted  by  art, 
is  never  absolutely  abandoned  to  a  domestic  life,  nor  lavished 
by  an  unlimited  fecundity.*  Thus  useful  trees  may  serve  to 
decorate  our  gardens,  if  the  too  great  quantity  of  fruit  does 
not  prevent  the  reproduction  of  their  blossoms.  These  reflec 
tions  prove,  that  the  French  women  have  no  reason  to  envy 
strangers ;  that  their  beauty,  in  fact,  though  longer  in  coming 
to  maturity,  and  less  perfect,  is  more  bewitching  and  more  du 
rable  ;  that  if  others  furnish  better  models  for  the  painter,  they 
will  stand  the  test  of  a  longer  examination,  and  that,  in  short, 
if  they  are  not  always  those  we  most  admire,  they  are  certainly 
those  we  must  love  the  most  and  the  longest. 

But  let  me  return  from  this  dangerous  excursion,  and  resume 
my  journey.  We  had  rode  forty-four  miles,  and  night  was 
closing  fast  upon  us,  when  we  arrived  at  Powhatan  court 
house  ;  this  is  a  more  recent,  and  more  rustic  settlement  than 
that  of  Cumberland.  It  consists  only  of  two  mean  huts,  one 
for  the  purpose  of  holding  the  sessions,  the  other  by  way  of 
public-house ;  but  which  hitherto  is  scarcely  fit  for  the  recep- 


*  It  is  certain  that  population  is  not  the  main  object  of  marriage  in 
France  among  the  higher  classes.  Among  the  nobility,  in  particular, 
the  parties  are  generally  contracted,  when  very  young,  by  their  respec 
tive  parents,  who  bring  them  together  to  make  an  heir,  or  two,  for  the 
family ;  which  object,  once  completed,  they  part  with  as  little  affec 
tion  as  when  they  met,  but  with  less  passion,  and  pass  the  remainder 
of  their  lives  in  perfect  freedom.  Whilst  family  duty  is  performing  for 
family  purposes,  their  conduct  is  dictated,  in  general,  by  the  nicest 
honour,  and  their  noble  blood  is  transmitted  tolerably  pure  and  free 
from  contamination  ;  but  "  unlimited  fecundity,"  as  it  is  checked  by 
some  on  principles  of  economy  and  prudence,  is  deemed  vulgar  and 
barbarous  by  all,  except  the  lower  classes,  who  are  strangers  to  thin 
pystem  of  refinement. —  Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  265 

tion  of  travellers.  It  is  kept  by  a  young  man  who  has  just  set 
tled  here ;  his  wife  is  a  tall,  handsome  woman,  his  sister-in-law 
not  quite  so  pretty.  We  had  a  good  supper  and  good  beds, 
but  our  horses  were  obliged  to  do  without  forage.  The  county 
of  Powhatan  takes  its  name  from  a  king  of  the  savages,  famous 
in  the  history  of  Virginia,  who  reigned  at  the  commencement 
of  the  last  century ;  when  the  colony  formed  its  first  establish 
ment  at  Jamestown,  it  was  often  necessary  to  treat,  and  some 
times  to  wage  war  with  him.  He  is  represented  as  a  profound, 
but  perfidious,  politician.  He  had  conquered  all  the  country 
betwixt  the  Apamatock  and  Bay  of  Chesapeake,  and  was  dread 
ed  by  the  neighbouring  nations. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


PETERSBURG H RICHMOND WESTOVER. 

WE  left  Powhatan  the  24th,  early  in  the  morning,  and,  after 
having  stopped  twice,  the  first  time  to  breakfast  in  a  poor  little 
house,  eight  miles  from  Powhatan,  and  the  last,  twenty-four 
miles  farther,  at  a  place  called  Chesterfield  court-house,  where 
we  saw  the  ruins  of  the  barracks  formerly  occupied  by  Baron 
Steuben,  since  burnt  by  the  English,  arrived  in  good  time  at 
Petersburgh.  This  day's  journey  was  also  forty-four  miles* 
The  town  of  Petersburgh  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Apamatock  ;  there  are  some  houses  on  the  opposite  shore,  but 
this  kind  of  suburb  is  a  district  independent  of  Petersburgh, 
and  called  Pocahunta.  We  passed  the  river  in  a  ferry-boat, 
and  were  conducted  to  a  little  public-house  about  thirty  steps 
from  thence,  which  had  an  indifferent  appearance ;  but,  on 
entering,  we  found  an  apartment  very  neatly  furnished;  a 
tall  woman,  handsomely  dressed,  and  of  a  genteel  figure,  who 
gave  the  necessary  orders  for  our  reception,  and  a  young  lady, 
equally  tall,  and  very  elegant,  at  work.  I  inquired  their  names, 
which  1  found  were  not  less  entitled  to  respect  than  their  ap 
pearance.  The  mistress  of  the  house,  already  twice  a  widow, 
was  called  Spencer,  and  her  daughter,  by  her  first  husband, 
Miss  Saunders.  I  was  shown  my  bed-chamber  ;  and  the  first 
thing  which  struck  me  was  a  large  magnificent  harpsichord,  on 
which  lay  also  a  guitar.  These  musical  instruments  belonged 
to  Miss  Saunders,  who  knew  very  well  how  to  use  them ;  but 
as  we  stood  more  in  need  of  a  good  supper,  than  a  concert,  I 
was  apprehensive  at  first  of  finding  our  landladies  too  good 
company,  and  that  we  should  have  fewer  orders  to  give  than 
compliments  to  make.  Mrs.  Spencer,  however,  happened  to 
be  the  best  woman  in  the  world ;  a  gay,  cheerful  creature,  no 
common  disposition  in  America  ;  and  her  daughter,  amidst  the 
elegance  of  her  appearance,  was  mild,  polite,  and  easy  in  con 
versation.  But  to  hungry  travellers  all  this  could,  at  the  best, 
be  considered  but  as  a  good  omen  for  the  supper,  for  which  we 
had  not  long  to  wait ;  for  scarcely  had  we  time  to  admire  the 
neatness  and  beauty  of  the  table-cloth,  before  it  was  covered 
with  plenty  of  good  dishes,  particularly  some  very  large  and 
excellent  fish.  We  were  very  good  friends  with  our  charming 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA,  267 

landladies  before  we  went  to  bed,  and  breakfasted  with  them 
the  next  morning.  We  were  just  going  out  to  take  a  walk, 
when  we  received  a  visit  from  Mr.  Victor,  whom  I  had  seen  at 
Williamsburgh ;  he  is  a  Prussian,  who  had  formerly  been  in  the 
army,  and,  after  having  travelled  a  great  deal  in  Europe,  came 
and  settled  in  this  country,  where  by  his  talents,  he  first  made 
his  fortune ;  and,  like  every  body  else,  finished  by  turning 
planter.  He  is  an  excellent  musician,  and  plays  every  kind  of 
instrument,  which  makes  his  company  in  great  request  by  the 
whole  neighbourhood.  He  told  us  he  was  come  to  pass  a  few 
days  with  Mrs.  Bowling,  one  of  the  greatest  landholders  in  Vir 
ginia,  and  proprietor  of  half  the  town  of  Petersburgh.  He 
added,  that  she  had  heard  of  our  arrival,  and  hoped  we  would 
come  and  dine  with  her,  which  invitation  we  accepted,  and  put 
ourselves  under  the  guidance  of  Mr.  Victor,  who  first  took  us 
to  the  ware-houses  or  magazines  of  tobacco.  These  ware 
houses,  of  which  there  are  numbers  in  Virginia,  though,  un 
fortunately,  great  part  of  them  has  been  burned  by  the  English, 
are  under  the  direction  of  public  authority.  There  are  in* 
spectors  nominated  to  prove  the  quality  of  the  tobacco  brought 
by  the  planters,  and  if  found  good,  they  give  a  receipt  for  the 
quantity.  The  tobacco  may  then  be  considered  as  sold,  these 
authentic  receipts  circulating  as  ready  money  in  the  country. 
For  example  :  suppose  I  have  deposited  twenty  hogsheads  of 
tobacco  at  Petersburgh,  I  may  go  fifty  leagues  thence  to  Alex 
andria  or  Fredericksburgh,  and  buy  horses,  cloths,  or  any  other 
article,  with  these  receipts,  which  circulate  through  a  number 
of  hands  before  they  reach  the  merchant  who  purchases  the 
tobacco  for  exportation.  This  is  an  excellent  institution,  for 
by  this  means  tobacco  becomes  not  only  a  sort  of  bank-stock, 
but  current  coin.  You  often  hear  the  inhabitants  say,  "  This 
watch  cost  me  ten  hogsheads  of  tobacco  ;  this  horse  fifteen 
hogsheads  ;  or,  I  have  been  offered  twenty,"  &c.  It  is  true 
that  the  price  of  this  article,  which  seldom  varies  in  peace,  is 
subject  to  fluctuations  in  time  of  war ;  but  then,  he  who  re 
ceives  it  in  payment,  makes  a  free  bargain,  calculates  the  risks 
and  expectations,  and  runs  the  hazard ;  in  short,  we  may  look 
on  this  as  a  very  useful  establishment ;  it  gives  to  commodities 
value  and  circulation,  as  soon  as  they  are  manufactured,  and, 
in  some  measure,  renders  the  planter  independent  of  the  mer 
chant. 

The  warehouses  at  Petersburgh  belong  to  Mrs.  Bowling. 
They  were  spared  by  the  English,  either  because  the  Generals 
Phillips  and  Arnold,  who  lodged  with  her,  had  some  respect  for 
her  property,  or  because  they  wished  to  preserve  the  tobacco 
contained  in  them  in  expectation  of  selling  it  for  their  profit. 
Phillips  died  in  Mrs.  Bowling's  house,  by  which  event  the  eu- 


2G8  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

premc  command  devolved  upon  Arnold ;  and  I  heard  it  said, 
that  Lord  Cornwallis,  on  his  arrival,  found  him  at  great  vari 
ance  with  the  navy,  who  pretended  that  the  booty  belonged  to 
them.  Lord  Cornwallis  terminated  the  dispute,  by  burning  the 
tobacco;  but  not  before  Mrs.  Bowling,  by  her  interest,  had 
time  sufficient  to  get  it  removed  from  her  warehouses.  She 
was  lucky  enough,  also,  ^to  save  her  valuable  property  in  the 
same  town,  consisting  of'a  mill,  which  turns  such  a  number  of 
mill-stones,  bolting  machines,  cribbles  j  &c.  and,  in  so  simple 
and  easy  a  manner,  that  it  produces  above  800/.  a  year  sterling. 
I  passed  upwards  of  an  hour  in  examining  its  various  parts,  and 
admiring  the  carpenter's  work,  and  the  construction.  It  is 
turned  by  the  waters  of  the  Apamatock,  which  are  conveyed 
to  it  by  a  canal  excavated  in  the  rock.  Having  continued  our 
walk  in  the  town,  where  we  saw  a  number  of  shops,  many  of 
which  were  well  stocked,  we  thought  it  time  to  pay  our  re 
spects  to  Mrs.  Bowling,  and  begged  Mr.  Victor  to  conduct  us 
to  her.  Her  house,  or  rather  houses,  for  she  has  two  on  the 
same  line  resembling  each  other,  which  she*  proposes  to  join 
together,  are  situa.ted  on  the  summit  of  a  considerable  slope, 
which  rises  from  the  level  of  the  town  of  Petersburgh,  and  cor 
responds  so  exactly  with  the  course  of  the  river,  that  there  is 
no  doubt  of  its  having  formerly  formed  one  of  its  banks.  This 
slope,  and  the  vast  platform  on  which  the  house  is  built,  are 
covered  with  grass,  which  afford  excellent  pasturage,  and  are 
also  her  property.  It  was  formerly  surrounded  with  rails,  and 
she  raised  a  number  of  fine  horses  there  ;  but  the  English  burn 
ed  the  fences,  and  carried  away  a  great  number  of  the  horses. 
On  our  arrival  we  were  saluted  by  Miss  Bowling,  a  young  lady 
of  fifteen,  possessing  all  the  freshness  of  her  age  ;  she  was  fol 
lowed  by  her  mother,  brother,  and  sister-in-law.  The  mother, 
a  lady  of  fifty,  has  but  little  resemblance  to  her  countrywomen ; 
she  is  lively,  active,  and  intelligent ;  knows  perfectly  well  how 
to  manage  her  immense  fortune,  and  what  is  yet  more  rare, 
knows  how  to  make  good  use  of  it.  Her  son  and  daughter- 
in-law  I  had  already  seen  at  Williamsburgh.  The  young  gen 
tleman  appears  mild  and  polite,  but  his  wife,  of  only  seventeen 
years  of  age,  is  a  most  interesting  acquaintance,  not  .only  from 
her  face  and  form,  which  are  exquisitely  delicate,  and  quite 
European,  but  from  her  being  also  descended  from  the  Indian 
Princess,  Pocahontas,  daughter  of  king  Powhatan,  of  whom  I 
have  already  spoken.  We  may  presume  that  it  is  rather  the 
disposition  of  that  amiable  American  woman,  than  her  exterior 
beauty,  which  Mrs.  Bowling  inherits. 

Perhaps  they  who  are  not  particularly  acquainted  with  the 
history  of  Virginia,  may  be  ignorant,  that  Pocahontas  was  the 
protectress  of  the  English,  and  often  screened  them  from  the 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  269 

cruelty  of  her  father.  She  was  but  twelve  years  old  when 
Captain  Smith,  the  bravest,  the  most  intelligent,  and  the  most 
humane  of  the  first  colonists,  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  savages;  he 
already  understood  their  language,  had  traded  with  them  several 
times,  and  often  appeased  the  quarrels  between  the  Europeans 
and  them  ;  often  had  he  been  obliged  also  to  fight  them,  and 
to  punish  their  perfidy.  At  length,  however,  under  the  pretext 
of  commerce,  he  was  drawn  into  an  ambush,  and  the  only  two 
companions  who  accompanied  him,  fell  before  his  eyes ;  but, 
though  alone,  by  his  dexterity  he  extricated  himself  from  the 
troop  which  surrounded  him,  until,  unfortunately,  imagining 
he  could  save  himself  by  crossing  a  morass,  he  stuck  fast,  so 
that  the  savages,  against  whom  he  had  no  means  of  defending 
himself,  at  last  took  and  bound  him,  and  conducted  him  to 
Powhatan.  The  king  was  so  proud  of  having  Captain  Smith 
in  his  power,  that  he  sent  him  in  triumph  to  all  the  tributary 
princes,  and  ordered  that  he  should  be  splendidly  treated,  till 
he  returned  to  suffer  that  death  which  was  prepared  for  him.* 

•*  Dr.  Robertson,  Mr.  Adair,  and  a  number  of  writers  have  given  an 
account  of  the  cruel  mode  by  which  the  Indians  torture  their  prisoners 
of  war,  before  they  put  them  to  death.  During  my  residence  near  Al 
exandria,  in  Virginia,  in  1782,  I  had  the  following  relation  of  their 
barbarous  treatment,  from  a  gentleman  who  had  just  escaped  out  of 
the  hands  of  these  infernal  furies.  Colonel  Crawford,  and  his  son,  two 
great  land  surveyors,  and  most  respectable  planters  in  Virginia,  in 
heading  a  party  against  the  Indians  and  Tories,  aided  by  some  light 
horse  from  the  British  frontiers,  who  had  spread  horror  and  devastation 
through  the  infant  back  settlements  of  the  United  States,  were  defeat 
ed  and  made  prisoners.  The  gentleman,  from  whom  I  had  this  ac 
count,  was  surgeon  to  the  party,  and  was  conducted  with  Mr.  Craw 
ford  and  his  son,  to  be  sacrificed  in  his  turn,  at  one  of  the  Indian  villa 
ges,  to  the  manes  of  their  people  slain  in  battle.  The  bloody  business 
commenced  with  Mr.  Crawford,  the  father,  who  was  delivered  over  to 
the  women>  and  being  fastened  to  a  stake,  in  the  centre  of  a  circle  form 
ed  by  the  savages  and  their  allies,  the  female  furies,  after  the  preamble 
of  a  war  song,  began  by  tearing  out  the  nails  of  his  toes  and  fingers, 
then  proceeded,  at  considerable  intervals,  to  cut  off  his  nose  and 
ears  ;  after  which  they  stuck  his  lacerated  body  full  of  pitch  pines  ; 
to  all  of  which  they  set  fire,  and  which  continued  burning,  amidst  the 
inconceivable  tortures  of  the  unhappy  man,  for  a  considerable  time. 
After  thus  glutting  their  revenge,  by  acts  of  the  most  horrible  bar 
barity,  the  success  of  which  was  repeatedly  applauded  by  the  surround 
ing  demons,  they  rushed  in  upon  him,  finished  his  misery  with  their 
tomahawks,  and  hacked  his  body  limb  from  limb.  This  dreadful  scene 
passed  in  the  presence  of  the  son  of  the  unhappy  sufferer,  and  the  sur 
geon,  who  were  to  be  conveyed  to  different  villages  to  undergo  the 


370  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

The  fatal  moment  at  last  arrived,  Captain  Smith  was  laid 
upon  the  hearth  of  the  savage  king,  and  his  head  placed  upon 
a  large  stone  to  receive  the  stroke  of  death,  when  Pocahontas, 
the  youngest  and  darling  daughter  of  Powhatan,  threw  herself 
upon  his  body,  clasped  him  in  her  arms,  and  declared,  that  if 
the  cruel  sentence  were  executed,  the  first  blow  should  fall  on 
her.  All  savages,  (absolute  sovereigns  and  tyrants  riot  ex- 
cepted,)  are  invariably  more  affected  by  the  tears  of  infancy, 
than  the  voice  of  humanity.  Powhatan  could  not  resist  the 
tears  and  prayers  of  his  daughter  :  Captain  Smith  obtained 
his  life,  on  condition  of  paying  for  his  ransom  a  certain  quan 
tity  of  muskets,  powder,  and  iron  utensils ;  but  how  were  they 
to  be  obtained  *?  They  would  neither  permit  him  to  return  to 
Jamestown,  nor  let  the  English  know  where  he  was,  lest  they 
should  demand  him  sword  in  hand.  Captain  Smith,  who  was 
as  sensible  as  courageous,  said,  that  if  Powhatan  would  permit 
one  of  his  subjects  to  carry  to  Jamestown  a  little  board  which 
he  would  give  him,  he  should  find  under  a  tree,  at  the  day  and 
hour  appointed,  all  the  articles  demanded  for  his  ransom. 
Powhatan  consented,  but  without  having  much  faith  in  his 
promises,  believing  it  to  be  only  an  artifice  of  the  captain's  to 
prolong  his  life.  But  he  had  written  on  the  boar.d  a  few  lines 
sufficient  to  give  an  account  of  his  situation.  The  messenger 
returned.  The  King  sent  to  the  place  fixed  upon,  and  was 
greatly  astonished  to  find  every  thing  which  had  been  demand- 
same  fate.  The  next  day,  accordingly,  young  Crawford  was  sacrificed 
with  the  same  circumstances  of  horror ;  after  which,  the  surgeon, 
being  entrusted  to  the  care  of  four  of  the  savages,  who  fortunately  got 
drunk  with  some  rurn,  given  them  as  a  recompense  by  their  Europe 
an  friends,  escaped  from  them  in  the  woods,  and,  bound  as  he  was, 
wandered  for  four  or  five  and  twenty  days,  subsisting  on  leaves  and 
berries,  before  he  reached  the  neighbourhood  "of  Winchester,  whence 
he  got  down  to  Alexandria.  Among  these  wretches  was  one  Simon 
Girty,  a  native  of  Virginia,  who  was  formerly  well  acquainted  with 
Colonel  Crawford,  and  had  been  employed  by  the  assembly  of  Virginia 
to  conciliate  the  savages,  and  obtain  their  neutrality  ;  but  who  having 
been  detected  by  the  Governor  in  some  malversations  of  the  pub 
lic  money  entrusted  to  him,  and  his  duplicity  discovered,  went  over  to 
the  British  and  became  more  merciless  than  the  worst  of  these  in 
fernal  hell-hounds.  Mr.  Crawford  in  the  midst  of  his  tremendous  suf 
ferings,  seeing  Girty  standing  in  the  circle,  with  a  gun,  called  to  him 
by  his  name,  and  implored  him  as  an  old  friend,  a  Christian,  and  a 
countryman,  to  shoot  him,  and  by  that  act  of  mercy  relieve  him  from 
his  misery  ;  but  the  inhuman  monster  tauntingly  replied,  "  No,  Craw 
ford,  I  have  got  no  powder,  your  assembly  did  not  choose  to  trust  me^ 
and  you  must  now  pay  for  it,"  and  continued  to  feast  his  eyes  with  the 
bloodv  sacrifice. — 'Traits. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  £71 

ed.  Powhatan  could  not  conceive  this  mode  of  transmitting 
thoughts,  and  Captain  Smith  was  henceforth  looked  upon  as  a 
great  magician,  to  whom  they  could  not  show  too  much  re 
spect.  He  left  the  savages  in  this  opinion,  and  hastened  to 
return  home.  Two  or  three  years  after,  some  fresh  differ 
ences  arising  amidst  them  and  the  English,  Powhatan,  who  no 
longer  thought  them  sorcerers,  but  still  feared  their  power, 
laid  a  horrid  plan  to  get  rid  of  them  altogether.  His  project 
was  to  attack  them  in  profound  peace,  and  cut  the  throats  of 
the  whole  colony.  The  night  of  this  intended  conspiracy, 
Pocahontas  took  advantage  of  the  obscurity,  and  in  a  terrible 
storm  which  kept  the  savages  in  their  tents,  escaped  from  her 
father's  house,  advised  the  English  to  be  upon  their  guard,  but 
conjured  them  to  spare  her  family,  to  appear  ignorant  of  the 
intelligence  she  had  given,  and  terminate  all  their  differences 
by  a  new  treaty.  It  would  be  tedious  to  relate  all  the  services 
which  this  angel  of  peace  rendered  to  both  nations.  I  shall 
only  add,  that  the  English,  I  know  not  from  what  motives,  but 
certainly  against  all  faith  and  equity,  thought  proper  to  carry 
her  off.  Long  and  bitterly  did  she  deplore  her  fate,  and  the 
only  consolation  she  had  was  Captain  Smith,  in  whom  she 
found  a  second  father.  She  was  treated  with  great  respect,  and 
married  to  a  planter  of  the  name  of  Rolj[e,  who  soon  after 
took  hereto  England.  This  was  in  the  r&gn  of  James  the 
First ;  and,  it  is  said,  that  this  monarch,  pedantic  and  ridicu 
lous  in  every  point,  was  so  infatuated  with  the  prerogatives  of 
royalty,  that  he  expressed  his  displeasure,  that  one  of  his  sub 
jects  should  dare  to  marry  the  daughter  even  of  a  savage  king. 
It  will  not  perhaps  be  difficult  to  decide  on  this  occasion,  whe 
ther  it  was  the  savage  king  who  derived  honour  from  finding 
himself  placed  upon  a  level  with  the  European  prince,  or  the 
English  monarch,  who  by  his  pride  and  prejudices  reduced 
himself  to  a  level  with  the  chief  of  the  savages.  Be  that  as 
it  will,  Captain  Smith,  who  had  returned  to  London  before  the 
arrival  of  Pocahontas,  was  extremely  happy  to  see  her  again, 
but  dared  not  to  treat  her  with  the  same  familiarity  as  at  James 
town.  As  soon  as  she  saw  him,  she  threw  herself  into  his 
arms,  calling  him  her  father ;  but  finding  that  he  neither  re 
turned  her  caresses  with  equal  warmth,  nor  the  endearing  title 
of  daughter,  she  turned  aside  her  head  and  wept  bitterly,  and 
it  was  a  long  time  before  they  could  obtain  a  single  word  from 
her.  Captain  Smith  inquired  several  times  what  could  be  the 
cause  of  her  affliction. — "  What !"  said  she,  "  did  I  not  save 
thy  life  in  America  9  When  I  was  torn  from  the  arms  of  my 
father,  and  conducted  among  thy  friends,  didst  thou  not  pro 
mise  to  be  a  father  to  me  *?  Didst  thou  not  assure  me,  that  if 
I  went  into  the  country  thou  wouldst  be  my  father,  and  that  I 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

should  be  thy  daughter  ?  Thou  hast  deceived  me,  and  behold 
me,  now  here,  a  stranger  and  an  orphan."  It  was  not  difficult 
for  the  captain  to  make  his  peace  with  this  charming  creature, 
whom  he  tenderly  loved.  He  presented  her  to  several  people 
of  the  first  quality,  but  never  dared  take  her  to  court,  from 
which  however  she  received  several  favours.  After  a  resi 
dence  of  several  years  in  England,  an  example  of  virtue  and 
piety,  and  attachment  to  her  husband,  she  died,  as  she  was  on 
the  point  of  embarking  on  her  return  to  America.  She  left  an 
only  son,  who  was  married,  and  left  only  daughters ;  these 
daughters,  others ;  and  thus,  with  the  female  line,  the  blood  of 
the  amiable  Pocahontas  now  flows  in  the  veins  of  the  young 
and  charming  Mrs.  Bowling. 

I  hope  I  shall  be  pardoned  this  long  digression,  which  may 
be  pleasing  to  some  readers.  My  visit  to  Mrs.  Bowling  and 
her  family,  having  convinced  me,  that  I  should  pass  part  of  the 
day  with  them  agreeably,  I  continued  my  walk,  with  a  promise 
of  returning  at  two  o'clock.  Mr.  Victor  conducted  me  to  the 
camp  formerly  occupied  by  the  enemy,  and  testified  his  regret 
that  I  could  not  take  a  nearer  view  of  Mr.  Bannister's  hand 
some  country-house,  which  was  in  sight ;  there  being  no  other 
obstacle  however  than  the  distance,  about  a  mile  and  a  half, 
and  the  noonday  heat,  we  determined  that  this  should  not  stop 
us;  and  walking  slowly,  we  reached,  without  fatigue,  this 
house,  which  is  really  worth  seeing.  It  is  decorated  rather  in 
the  Italian,  than  the  English  or  American  style,  having  three  por 
ticos  at  the  three  principal  entries,  each  of  them  supported  by 
four  columns.*  It  was  then  occupied  by  an  inhabitant  of 


*  The  Italian  architecture,  that  of  porticos  in  particular,  is  admira 
bly  adapted  to  all  hot  climates,  and  of  course  to  the  southern  states  of 
America.  The  same  motives,  therefore,  which  induced  the  invention 
of  this  mode  of  building  in  ancient  Greece  and  Rome,  and  in  general 
throughout  the  Eastern  world,  would  naturally  give  rise  to  the  same 
inventions  of  convenience  in  similar  climates  ;  and,  in  fact,  though 
the  richer  and  more  polished  descendants  of  Britain,  in  the  New 
World,  may  be  supposed  to  adopt  these  porticos  from  Italy,  as  the  cul 
tivated  mind  of  the  author  imagines ;  the  very  poorest  settler,  nay 
even  the  native  Indian,  invariably  attempts  some  kind  of  substitute  for 
this  necessary  protection  from  the  sun  and  weather.  Every  tavern  or 
inn  is  provided  with  a  covered  portico  for  the  convenience  of  its 
guests,  and  this  evidently  from  the  necessity  of  the  case.  We  have 
only  to  examine  the  resources  of  the  savage  islander  in  the  Pacific 
ocean,  and  recur  to  the  origin  of  all  architecture,  from  the  fluted  Co 
rinthian  in  the  hall  of  empire,  to  the  rusti^  prop  of  the  thatched  roof, 
to  discover  the  natural  progress  of  the  human  mind,  and  the  similariU 
of  human  genius. — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  &3 

Carolina,  called  Nelson,  who  had  been  driven  from  his  coun 
try  by  the  war,  which  followed  him  to  Petersburg!!.     He  in 
vited  me  to  walk  in,  and  whilst  he  made  me,  according  to  cus 
tom,  drink  a  glass  of  wine,  another  Carolinian,  of  the  name  of 
Bull,  arrived  to  dine  with  him.     The  latter  was  a  militia  gene- 
mi,  and  came  from  General  Greene's  army,  where  his  time  of 
service  was  expired.     The  history  of  Mr.  Bull,  which  is  not 
long,  will  give  a  general  idea  of  the  state  of  the  southern  pro 
vinces.     Possessed  of  a  great  number  of  negroes,  large  per 
sonal  property,  particularly  in  plate,  previous  to,  and  during 
the  war,  he  did  not  think  proper,  after  the  capture  of  Charles 
ton,  to  expose  his  wealth  to  the  rapacity  of  the  English.     Be 
set  off  therefore  with  two  hundred  negroes,  followed  by  a 
great  number  of  wagons  laden  with  his  effects,  and  provisions 
for  his  little  army,  and  travelled,  in  this  manner,  through  South 
and  North-Carolina,  and  part  of  Virginia,  pitching  his  camp 
every  evening  in  the  most  commodious  situations.     At  length 
he  arrived  at  Tukakoe,  on  James  river,  the  seat  of   his  old 
friend  Mr.  Randolph,  a  rich  planter  of  Virginia,  who  gave  him 
a  spot  of  ground  near  his  house,  on  which  his  negroes  built 
one  for  himself.     Here  he  lived  in  tranquillity,  surrounded  by 
his  slaves  and  his  flocks,  until  Arnold  and  Phillips  invaded  Vir 
ginia,  and  approached  his  new  asylum.     Mr.  Bull  once  more 
departed  with  his  wealth,  his  flocks,  and  negroes,  to  retire  into 
the  upper  country  near  Fredericksburg.     On  my  asking  him 
what  he  would  have  done,  had  we  not  opportunely  arrived  to 
expel  the  English,  who  intended  to  complete  the  conquest  of 
Virginia,  "  I  should  have  retired  to  Maryland,"  he  replied, — 
and  if  they  had  gone  thither  9 — "  I  should  have  proceeded  to 
Pennsylvania,  and  so  on,  even  to  New-England."     Does  not 
this  recall  to  mind  the  ancient  patriarchs  emigrating  with  their 
family  and  flocks,  with  a  certainty  of  finding  every  where  a 
country  to  receive  and  nourish  them'?*     General  Bull   was 


*  I  have  already  said,  that  I  had  the  happiness  of  a  particular  ac 
quaintance  with  many  of  the  principal  gentlemen  of  South-Carolina. 
The  reflection  on  the  pleasing  hours  I  passed  with  them  in  their  ex 
iled  situation  at  Philadelphia,  and  the  warm  friendship  with  which 
they  honoured  me,  whilst  it  reconciles  me  to  the  world,  and  soothes 
the  memory  of  past  sufferings,  touches  the  tenderest  affections  of  a 
sensible  and  grateful  heart.  My  bosom  beat  high  with  genuine  ar 
dour  in  the  cause  for  which  they  sacrificed  every  personal  considera 
tion,  but  I  had  frequently  the  opportunity  of  appreciating  that  sacri 
fice.  Seeing  what  I  saw,  I  want  no  instances  of  Greek  or  Roman 
virtue  to  stimulate  my  feelings,  or  excite  my  emulation  ;  and  it  will 
ever  be  matter  of  congratulation  with  me,  to  have  witnessed  in  the 
principal  inhabitants  of  Carolina,  all  the  blandishments  of  civilized 

35 


274  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

preparing  to  return  to  Carolina  in  hopes,  henceforth,  of  pass 
ing  happier  days.  After  putting  many  questions  to  him  re 
specting  affairs  to  the  southward,  which  he  answered  with 
great  frankness  and  good  sense,  I  returned  to  Mrs.  Bowling's, 
where  I  was  not  disappointed  in  finding  a  good  dinner,  the  ho 
nours  of  which  she  did  with  much  cordiality,  without  restraint 
or  ceremony.  After  dinner,  Miss  Bowling  played  on  the  harp 
sichord,  and  sung  like  an  adept  in  music,  although  her  voice 
was  not  agreeable;  whilst  the  descendant  of  Pocahontas  touch 
ed  a  guitar,  and  sung  like  a  person  unskilled  in  music,  but  with 
a  charming  voice.  On  my  return  home,  I  had  another  con 
cert  ;  Miss  Saunders  singing  some  airs,  which  she  accompa 
nied  sometimes  with  the  harpsichord,  and  sometimes  with  the 
guitar. 

Next  day  we  were  obliged  to  quit  this  good  house  and  agree 
able  company ;  but  before  I  left  Petersburgh,  I  observed  that 
it  was  already  a  flourishing  town,  and  must  become  more  so, 
every  day,  from  its  favourable  situation  with  respect  to  com 
merce.  First,  because  it  is  placed  immediately  below  the  Falls, 
or  Rapids  of  the  Apamatock,  and  the  river  can  here  float  ves 
sels  of  fifty  or  sixty  tons  burthen.  Secondly,  because  the  pro 
ductions  of  the  southern  part  of  Virginia  have  no  other  outlet, 
and  those  even  of  North-Carolina  are  gradually  taking  this 
way,  the  navigation  of  the  Roanoke  and  Albemarle  Sound  be 
ing  by  no  means  so  commodious  as  that  of  the  Apamatock  and 
James  river.  But  these  advantages  are  unfortunately  balanced 
by  the  insalubrity  of  the  climate ;  for  I  have  Seen  assured,  that 
of  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  three  little  burghs  of  Pocahunta, 
of  Blandford  and  Petersburgh,  which  may  be  considered  as 
forming  one  town,  not  two  persons  are  to  be  found  who  are 
natives  of  the  country.  Commerce  and  navigation,  notwith- 


society,  the  love  of  life  and  all  its  blessings,  a  humanity  void  of  re 
proach,  an  hospitality  not  exceeded  in  the  patriarchal  ages,  contrary 
to  the  paradoxes  of  systematic  writers,  blended  with  the  inflexible  vir 
tue  which  distinguished  the  best  arid  purest  ages  of  the  world.  From 
the  number,  I  shall  only  select  the  brilliant  examples  of  Major  Pierce 
Butler,  and  Mr.  Arthur  Middleton.  Wealth,  honour,  interest,  do 
mestic  happiness,  their  children,  were  nothing  in  the  eyes  of  such 
men,  though  calculated  to  enjoy,  and  communicate  happiness  in  every 
sphere,  when  put  in  competition  with  the  great  objects  of  universal 
public  happiness,  and  sacred  Freedom's  holy  cause.  How  painful  is 
it  to  be  compelled  to  add,  that  such  was  the  cold,  selfish  spirit  of  too 
many  of  the  inhabitants  of  Philadelphia  towards  their  Carolina  bre 
thren,  who  had  every  claim  upon  their  sympathy  and  good  offices,  as 
to  merit  the  indignation  of  every  feeling  mind,  and  to  fix  an  indelible; 
Stain  upon  their  character  as  men  and  citizens. — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH  AMERICA.  275 

standing,  produce  a  concourse  of  strangers.  The  situation, 
besides,  is  agreeable,  arid  the  climate  may  probably  be  render- 
c(\.  more  salubrious  by  draining  some  morasses  in  the  neigh 
bourhood. 

Five  miles  from  Petersburgh,  we  passed  the  small  river  of 
Randolph,  over  a  stone  bridge ;  and  travelling,  through  a  rich 
and  well  peopled  country,  arrived  at  a  fork  of  roads,  where  we 
were  unlucky  enough  precisely  to  make  choice  of  that  which 
did  not  lead  to  Richmond,  the  place  of  our  destination.     Bui 
we  had  no  reason  to  regret  our  error,  as  it  was  only  two  miles 
about  and  we  skirted  James  river  to  a  charming  place  called 
Warwick,  where  a  groupe  of  handsome  houses  form  a  sort  of 
village,  and  there  are  several  superb  ones  in  the  neighbour 
hood  ;    among  others,  that  of  Colonel  Carey,  on   the   right 
bank  of  the  river,  and  Mr.  Randolph's  on  the  opposite  shore* 
One  must   be  fatigued  with  hearing  the  name  of  Randolph 
mentioned  in  travelling  in  Virginia,  (for  it  is   one  of  the  most 
ancient  families  in  the  country,)  a  Randolph  being  among  the 
first  settlers,  and  is  likewise  one  of  the  most  numerous   and 
rich.     It  is  divided  into  seven  or  eight  branches,  =nd  1  am  not 
afraid  of  exaggerating,  when  I  say,  that  they  pos^ss  an  income 
of  upwards  of  a  million  of  livres.     It  is  only  twenty-five  miles 
from  Petersburgh  to  Richmond,  but  as  we  *iad  lost  our  way, 
and  travelled  but  slowly,  it  was  near  three  o'clock  when  we 
reached  Manchester,  a  sort  of  suburb  to  Richmond,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  river,  where  you  pas?  the  ferry.     The  passage* 
was  short,  there  being  two  boats  for  the  accommodation  of 
travellers.     Though  Richmond  be  already  an  old  town,  and 
well  situated  for  trade,  being  built  on  the  spot  where  James 
river  begins  to  be  navigable,  that  is,  just  below  the  Rapids,  it 
was,  before  the  war,  one  of  the  least  considerable  in  Virginia, 
where  they  are  all,  in  general,  very  small  j  but  the  seat  of  go 
vernment  having  been  removed  from  Williamsburgh,  it  is  be 
come  a  real  capital,  and  is  augmenting  every  day.     It  was  ne 
cessary,  doubtless,  to  place  the  legislative  body  at  a  distance 
from  the  sea-coast,  where  it  was  exposed  to  the  rapid  and  un 
expected  inroads  of  the  English  ;  but  Williamsburgh  had  the 
still  farther  inconvenience  of  being  situated  at  the  extremity 
of  the  state,  which  obliged  a  great  part  of  the  delegates  to  make 
a  long  journey  to  the  assembly ;  besides,  that  from  its  position 
between  James  and  York  rivers,  it  has  no  port  nor  communica 
tion  with  them  but  by  small  creeks  very  difficult  for  navigation, 
whilst  vessels  of  200  tons  come  up  to  Richmond.     This  new 
capital  is  divided  into  three  parts,  one  of  which  is  on  the  edge 
of  the  river,  and  maybe  considered  as  the  port;  the  two  others 
are  built  on  two  eminences,  which  are  separated  by  a  little 
valley.     I  was  conducted  to  that  on  the  west,  where  I  found  a 


27t>  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

good  inn,  and  my  lodgings  and  dinner  ordered  by  a  servant 
whom  I  had  sent  on  two  days  before,  with  a  lame  horse.  We 
were  served,  therefore,  immediately,  but  with  such  magnificence 
and  profusion,  that  there  would  have  been  too  much  for  twenty 
persons.  Every  plate  that  was  brought  us  produced  a  burst 
of  laughter,  but  not  without  considerable  alarm  for  the  bill  of 
the  next  day  ;  for  I  had  been  apprized  that  the  inns  at  Rich 
mond  were  uncommonly  extravagant.  I  escaped,  however, 
for  seven  or  eight  Louis  d'or,  which  was  not  enormous,  consi 
dering  our  expenditure.  A  short  time  before  Mr.  de  Rocham- 
beau  had  paid  five  and  twenty  Louis,  at  another  inn,  for  some 
horses  which  remained  there  for  four  or  five  days,  although  he 
neither  ate  nor  slept  in  it  himself.  Mr.  Formicalo,  my  land 
lord,  was  more  honest ;  his  only  error  was  the  exalted  idea  he 
had  formed  of  the  manner  in  which  French  General  Officers 
must  be  treated.  He  is  a  Neapolitan,  who  came  to  Virginia 
with  Lord  Dunmore,  as  his  Maitre  (THotcl,  but  he  had  gone  ra 
ther  round  about,  having  been  before  in  Russia.  At  present 
he  has  a  good  house,  furniture,  and  slaves,  and  will  soon  be 
come  a  rna*  of  consequence  in  his  new  country.  He  still, 
however,  recollects  his  native  land  with  pleasure,  and  I  have 
no  doubt  that  n*/  attention  in  addressing  him  only  in  Italian., 
saved  me  a  few  Luiis. 

After  dinner  I  we«t  to  pay  a  visit  to  Mr.  Harrison,  then  Go 
vernor  of  the  State.  T  found  him  in  a  homely,  but  spacious 
enough  house,  which  was  fitted  up  for  him.  As  the  assembly 
was  not  then  sitting,  there  was  nothing  to  distinguish  him  from 
other  citizens.  One  of  his  brothers,  who  is  a  Colonel  of  Artil 
lery,  and  one  of  his  sons,  who  acts  as  his  Secretary,  were  with 
him.  The  conversation  was  free  and  agreeable,  which  he  was 
even  desirous  of  prolonging  ;  for  on  my  rising  in  half  an  hour, 
lest  I  might  interrupt  him,  he  assured  me  that  the  business  of 
the  day  was  at  an  end,  and  desired  me  to  resume  my  seat  We 
talked  inuch  of  the  first  Congress  in  America,  in  which  he  sat 
for  two  years,  and  which,  as  I  have  already  said,  was  composed 
of  every  person  distinguished  for  virtue  and  capacity  on  the 
continent.  This  subject  led  us  naturally  to  that  which  is  the 
most  favourite  topic  among  the  Americans,  the  origin  and  com 
mencement  of  the  present  revolution.  It  is  a  circumstance 
peculiar  to  Virginia,  that  the  inhabitants  of  that  country  were 
certainly  in  the  best  situation  of  all  the  colonists  under  the 
English  government.  The  Virginians  were  planters,  rather 
than  merchants,  and  the  objects  of  their  culture  were  rather 
valuable  than  the  result^of  industry.  They  possessed,  almost 
exclusively,  the  privileged  article  of  tobacco,  which  the  Eng 
lish  came  in  quest  of  into  the  very  heart  of  the  country,  bring 
ing  in  exchange  every  article  of  utility,  and  even  of  luxury. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  277 

They  had  a  particular  regard  and  predilection  for  Virginia,  and 
favoured  accordingly  the  peculiar  disposition  of  that  country, 
where  cupidity  and  indolence  go  hand-in-hand,  and  serve  only 
as  boundaries  to  each  other.  It  was  undoubtedly  no  easy  mat 
ter  therefore,  to  persuade  this  people  to  lake  up  arms,  because 
the  town  of  Boston  did  not  choose  to  pay  a  duty  upon  tea,  and 
was  in  open  rupture  with  England.  To  produce  this  effect,  it 
was  necessary  to  substitute  activity  for  indolence,  and  foresight 
for  indifference.  That  idea  was  to  be  awakened  at  which 
every  man,  educated  in  the  principles  of  the  English  constitu 
tion,  shudders,  at  the  idea  of  a  servile  submission  to  a  tax  to  which 
he  has  not  himself  consented.  The  precise  case  however  re 
lative  to  them,  had  not  yet  occurred,  though  every  enlightened 
mind  foresaw  that  such  was  the  object,  and  would  be  the  inevi 
table  consequence  of  the  early  measures  of  the  government : 
but  how  were  th«  people  to  be  convinced  of  this  *?  By  what  other 
motive  could  they  be  brought  to  adopt  decisive  measures,  if 
not  by  the  confidence  they  reposed  in  their  leaders  ?  Mr.  Har 
rison  informed  me,  that  when  he  was  on  the  point  of  setting 
out  with  Mr.  Jefferson  and  Mr.  Lee  to  attend  the  first  Congress 
at  Philadelphia,  a  number  of  respectable,  but  uninformed  in 
habitants,  waited  upon,  and  addressed  them  as  follows :  "  You 
assert  that  there  is  a  fixed  intention  to  invade  our  rights  and 
privileges ;  we  own  that  we  do  not  see  this  clearly,  but  since  „ 
you  assure  us  that  it  is  so,  we  believe  the  fact.  We  are  about 
to  take  a  very  dangerous  step,  but  we  confide  in  you,  and  are 
ready  to  support  you  in  every  measure  you  shall  think  proper 
to  adopt."  Mr.  Harrison  added,  that  he  found  himself  great 
ly  relieved  by  a  speech  made  by  Lord  North  soon  after,  in 
which  he  could  not  refrain  from  avowing,  in  the  clearest  man 
ner,  the  plan  of  the  British  government.*  This  speech  was 


*  I  cannot  here  resist  transcribing  a  passage  from  Mr.  Payne's  ce 
lebrated  letter  to  the  Abbe  Raynal,  which  merits  preservation,  and 
may  serve  to  illustrate  the  ideas  of  America  respecting  the  general 
views  of  Britain,  in  hopes  that  every  reflecting  Englishman  is  at  length 
dispassionate  enough  to  bear  the  observation.  "  I  shall  now  take  my 
leave  of  this  passage  of  the  Abbe,  with  an  observation,  which  until 
something  unfolds  itself  to  convince  me  of  the  contrary,  I  cannot 
avoid  believing  to  be  true  ;  which  is,  that  it  was  the  fixed  determina 
tion  of  the  British  cabinet  to  quarrel  with  America  at  all  events.  They 
(the  members  who  compose  the  cabinet,)  had  no  doubt  of  success,  if 
they  could  once  bring  it  to  the  issue  of  a  battle  ;  and  they  expected 
from  a  conquest,  what  they  could  neither  propose  with  decency,  nor 
hope  for  by  negotiation.  The  charters  and  constitutions  of  the  colo 
nies  were  become  to  them  matters  of  offence,  and  their  rapid  progress 
in  property  and  population  were  beheld  with  disgust,  as  the  growing 


278  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

printed  in  the  public  papers,  and  all  America  rang  with  its 
contents.  Returning  afterwards  to  Virginia,  he  saw  the  same 
persons  who  had  thus  addressed  him  on  his  departure,  who  now 
confessed  that  he  had  not  deceived  them,  and  that  hencefor 
ward  they  were  resolutely  determined  upon  war.  These  par 
ticular  details  cannot  but  be  useful  to  such  Europeans  as  are 
desirous  of  forming  a  just  idea  of  those  great  events,  in  which 
they  took  so  deep  an  interest;  for  they  would  be  much  decei 
ved  in  imagining  that  all  the  Thirteen  States  of  America  were 
invariably  animated  by  the  same  spirit,  and  affected  by  the 
same  sentiments.  But  they  would  commit  a  still  greater  error, 
did  they  imagine,  that  these  people  resembled  each  other  in 
their  forms  of  government,  their  manners  and  opinions.  One 
must  be  in  the  country  itself;  one  must  be  acquainted  with  the 
language,  and  take  a  pleasure  in  conversing,  and  in  listening, 
to  be  qualified  to  form,  and  that  slowly,  a  proper  opinion  and 
a  decisive  judgment.*  After  this  reflection,  the  reader  will 


and  natural  means  of  independence.  They  saw  no  way  to  retain  them 
long,  but  by  reducing  them  in  time.  A  conquest  would  at  once  have 
made  them  lords  and  landlords  ;  and  put  them  in  possession  both  of 
the  revenue  and  the  reatal.  The  whole  trouble  of  government  would 
have  ceased  in  a  victory,  and  a  final  end  been  put  to  remonstrance  and 
debate.  The  experience  of  the  stamp  act  had  taught  them  how  to 
quarrel,  with  the  advantages  of  cover  and  convenience,  and  they  had 
nothing  to  do  but  to  renew  the  scene,  and  put  contention  into  motion. 
They  hoped  for  a  rebellion,  and  they  made  one.  They  expected  a 
declaration  of  independence,  and  they  were  not  disappointed.  But 
after  this,  they  looked  for  victory,  and  they  obtained  a  defeat.  If  this 
be  taken  as  the  generating  cause  of  the  contest,  then  is  every  part  of 
the  conduct  of  the  British  ministry  consistent,  from  the  commence 
ment  of  the  dispute,  until  the  signing  the  treaty  of  Paris,  (the  Ameri 
can  and  French  alliance,)  after  which,  conquest  becoming  doubtful, 
they  had  recourse  to  negotiation,  and  were  again  defeated.  If  we 
take  a  review  of  what  part  Britain  has  acted,  we  shall  find  every  thing 
which  ought  to  make  a  nation  blush.  The  most  vulgar  abuse,  accom 
panied  by  that  species  of  haughtiness  which  distinguishes  the  hero  of 
a  mob  from  the  character  of  a  gentleman  ;  it  was  as  much  from  her 
manners,  as  from  her  injustice,  that  she  lost  the  colonies.  By  the  lat 
ter  she  provoked  their  principles,  by  the  former  she  exhausted  their  pa 
tience.  And  it  ought  to  be  held  out  to  the  world,  to  show,  how  neces 
sary  it  is  to  conduct  the  business  of  government  with  civility." — Trans. 

*  The  same  ingenious  author  of  Common  Sense,  makes  another  ob 
servation,  in  his  answer  to  the  very  ignorant,  or  very  prejudiced  work 
of  the  Abb(§  Raynal  on  the  revolution  of  America,  to  which,  however 
it  may  militate  against  the  utility  of  the  present  publication,  or  tlio 
notes  of  the  translator,  he  cannot  avoid  perfectly  subscribing,  viz.:  u  I 
never  yet  saw  an  European  description  of  America  that  was  true. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA,  279 

not  be  surprised  at  the  pleasure  I  took  in  conversing  with  Mr. 
Harrison.  Besides  that  I  was  particularly  happy  to  form  an 
acquaintance  with  a  man  of  so  estimable  a  character  in  every 
respect,  and  whose  best  eulogium  it  is  to  say,  that  he  is  the  in 
timate  friend  of  Dr.  Franklin.*  He  pressed  me  to  dine  with 
him  next  day,  and  to  pass  another  day  at  Richmond ;  but  as 
there  was  nothing  to  excite  curiosity  in  that  town,  and  I  was 
desirous  of  stopping  at  Westover  before  I  returned  to  Wil- 
liamsburgh,  where  I  was  anxious  to  arrive,  we  set  out  the  27th 
at  eight  in  the  morning,  under  the  escort  of  Colonel  Harrison, 
who  accompanied  us  to  a  road  from  which  it  was  impossible  to 
go  astray.  We  travelled  six  and  twenty  miles  without  halting, 
in  very  hot  weather,  but  by  a  very  agreeable  road,  with  mag 
nificent  houses  in  view  at  every  instant ;  for  the  banks  of  James 
river  form  the  garden  of  Virginia.  That  of  Mrs.  Bird,  to  which 
I  was  going,  surpasses  them  all  in  the  magnificence  of  the 
buildings,  the  beauty  of  its  situation,  and  the  pleasures  of  so- 
ciety.f 


neither  can  any  person  gain  a  just  idea  of  it,  but  by  coming  to  it. — 
Trans. 

*  The  illustrious  and  amiable  character  of  Dr.  Franklin  is  far  beyond 
my  praise.  To  have  known  him  ;  to  have  been  a  frequent  witness  to 
the  distinguished  acts  of  his  great  mind  ;  to  have  been  in  a  situation  to 
learn^  and  to  admire  his  comprehensive  views,  and  benevolent  motives  ; 
to  have  heard  the  profound  maxims  of  wise  philosophy  and  sound  poli 
tics,  drop  from  his  lips  with  all  the  unaffected  simplicity  of  the  most 
indifferent  conversation  ;  to  have  heard  him  deviate  from  the  depths  of 
reason,  and  adopt  his  instructive  discourse  to  the  capacity  and  temper 
of  the  young  and  the  gay  ;  to  have  enjoyed  in  short,  the  varied  luxu 
ries  of  his  delightful  society,  is  a  subject  of  triumph  and  consolation, 
of  which  nothing  can  deprive  me.  He  too  as  well  as  the  envious  and 
interested  enemies  of  his  transcendent  merit,  must  drop  from  off  the 
scene,  but  his  name,  are  perennius,  is  inscribed  in  indelible  characters 
on  the  immortal  roll  of  philosophy  and  freedom,  for  the  ardentia  verba 
of  the  most  honest  advocate  of  freedom,  of  the  present  age,  the  late 
Serjeant  Glynn,  on  a  great  occasion  ;  the  action  against  Lord  Halifax 
for  the  false  imprisonment  of  Mr.  Wilkes,  may  with  peculiar  justice 
be  applied  to  this  great  man.  "  Few  men  in  whole  revolving  ages 
can  be  found,  who  dare  oppose  themselves  to  the  force  of  tyranny,  and 
whose  single  breasts  contain  the  spirit  of  nations." — Trans. 

t  The  most  perfect  ease  and  comfort  characterize  the  mode  of  re 
ceiving  strangers  in  Virginia,  but  no  where  are  these  circumstances 
more  conspicuous  than  at  the  house  of  General  Washington.  Your 
apartments  are  your  home,  the  servants  of  the  house  are  yours,  and 
whilst  every  inducement  is  held  out  to  bring  you  into  the  general  so 
ciety  in  the  drawing-room,  or  at  the  table,  it  rests  with  yourself  to  for 
served  or  not  with  every  thing  in  your  own  chamber. —  Trans. 


•%0  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

Mrs.  Bird  is  the  widow  of  a  Colonel  who  served  in  the  war 
of  1756,  and  was  afterwards  one  of  the  Council  under  the  Bri 
tish  government.  His  talents,  his  personal  qualities,  and  his 
riches,  for  he  possessed  an  immense  territory,  rendered  him  one 
of  the  principal  personages  of  the  country ;  but  being  a  spend 
thrift  and  a  gambler,  he  left  his  affairs,  at  his  death,  in  very 
great  disorder.  He  had  four  children  by  his  first  wife,  who 
were  already  settled  in  the  world,  and  has  left  eight  by  his 
second,  of  whom  the  widow  takes  care.  She  has  preserved  his 
beautiful  house,  situated  on  James  river,  a  large  personal  pro 
perty,  a  considerable  number  of  slaves,  and  some  plantations 
which  she  has  rendered  valuable.  She  is  about  two  and  forty, 
with  an  agreeable  countenance,  and  great  sense.  Four  of  her 
eight  children  are  daughters,  two  of  whom  are  near  twenty, 
and  they  are  all  amiable  and  well  educated.  Her  care  and  ac 
tivity  have  in  some  measure  repaired  the  effects  of  her  hus 
band's  dissipation,  and  her  house  is  still  the  most  celebrated, 
and  the  most  agreeable  of  the  neighbourhood.  She  has  ex 
perienced  however,  fresh  misfortunes  ;  three  times  have  the 
English  landed  at  Westover,  under  Arnold  and  .  Cornwallis ; 
and  though  these  visits  cost  her  dear,  her  husband's  former  at 
tachment  to  England,  where  his  eldest  son  is  now  serving  in 
the  army,  her  relationship  with  Arnold,  whose  cousin  german 
she  is,  and  perhaps  too,  the  jealousy  of  her  neighbours,  have 
given  birth  to  suspicions,  that  war  alone  was  not  the  object 
which  induced  the  English  always  to  make  their  descents  at 
her  habitation.  She  has  been  accused  even  of  connivance 
with  them,  and  the  government  have  once  put  their  seal  upon 
her  papers ;  but  she  has  braved  the  tempest,  and  defended  her 
self  with  firmness  ;  and  though  her  affair  be  not  yet  terminated, 
it  does  not  appear  as  if  she  was  likely  to  suffer  any  other  in 
convenience  than  that  of  being  disturbed  and  suspected.  Her 
two  eldest  daughters  passed  the  last  winter  at  Williamsburgh, 
where  they  were  greatly  complimented  by  M.  de  Rochambeau 
and  the  whole  army.*  I  had  also  received  them  in  the  best 

*  The  prudent  conduct  of  the  French  officers,  and  the  strict  disci 
pline  of  their  troops  in  a  country  with  different  manners,  language,  and 
religion,  full  of  inveterate  prejudices,  and  wherein  they  had  very  lately 
been  regarded  as  natural  enemies,  must  ever  be  considered  as  an 
opocha  and  a  phenomenon,  in  the  history  of  policy  and  subordination. 
Whilst  all  ranks  of  officers  were  making  it  their  study  successfully  to 
conciliate  the  good  opinion  of  the  higher  classes,  nothing  could  exceed 
the  probity,  and  urbanity  of  the  common  soldiers  ;  not  only  did  they 
live  with  the  American  troops  in  a  harmony,  hitherto  unknown  to  allied 
armies,  even  of  kindred  language,  interest,  and  religion,  but  their  eon- 
duct  was  irreproachable,  and  even  delicate  to  the  inhabitants  of  the 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  :>31 

manner  I  could,  and  received  the  thanks  of  Mrs.  Bird,  with  a 
pressing  invitation  to  come  and  see  her ;  I  found  myself  in 
consequence,  quite  at  home.  I  found  here  also  my  acquaint 
ance  the  young  Mrs.  Bowling,  who  was  on  a  visit  to  Mr.  Mead, 
a  friend  and  neighbour  of  Mrs.  Bird's,  who  had  invited  him  and 
his  company  to  dinner.  I  passed  this  day  therefore  very  agree 
ably,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Mead,  whom  I  had  also  known  at 
Williamsburgh,  engaged  the  company  to  dine  with  them  the 
next  day.  The  river  alone  separates  the  two  houses,  which 
are  notwithstanding,  upwards  of  a  mile  distant  from  each  other ; 
but  as  there  is  very  little  current,  the  breadth  of  the  water  be 
tween  them  does  not  prevent  it  from  being  soon  passed.  Mr. 
Mead's  house  is  by  no  means  so  handsome  as  that  of  Westover, 
but  it  is  extremely  well  fitted  up  within,  and  stands  on  a  charm 
ing  situation  ;  for  it  is  directly  opposite  to  Mrs.  Bird's,  which, 
with  its  surrounding  appendages,  has  the  appearance  of  a  small 
town,  and  forms  a  most  delightful  prospect.  Mr.  Mead's  gar 
den,  like  that  of  Westover,  is  in  the  nature  of  a  terrace  on  the 
bank  of  the  river,  and  is  capable  of  being  made  still  more  beau 
tiful,  if  Mr.  Mead  preserves  his  house,  and  gives  some  attention 
to  it ;  for  he  is  a  philosopher  of  a  very  amiable  but  singular 
turn  of  mind,  and  such  as  is  particularly  uncommon  in  Virgi 
nia,  since  he  rarely  attends  to  affairs  of  interest,  and  cannot  pre 
vail  upon  himself  to  make  his  negroes  work.*  He  is  even  so 
disgusted  with  a  culture  wherein  it  is  necessary  to  make  use  of 
slaves,  that  he  is  tempted  to  sell  his  possessions  in  Virginia  and 
remove  to  New-England.  Mrs.  Bird,  who  has  a  numerous 
family  to  provide  for,  cannot  carry  her  philosophy  so  far ;  but 


country.  They  who  predicted  discord  on  the  introduction  of  a  French 
army,  had  reason  and  experience  on  their  side,  but  the  spirit  of  policy 
and  wisdom  which  presided  in  the  French  councils  had  gone  forth, 
and  diffusing  itself  through  every  subordinate  class  of  men,  persuaded 
even  the  meanest  actors  in  the  war,  and  baffled  foresight.  Nor  was 
this  one  of  the  least  extraordinary  circumstances  of  this  wonderful 
revolution. — Trans. 

*  Whilst  the  Translator  was  employed  in  this  passage,  he  read  in 
the  public  prints,  the  exultation  of  a  friend  to  his  fellow-creatures, 
that  a  Mr.  Pleasants,  a  quaker  on  James  river  in  Virginia,  had  libera 
ted  his  slaves,  and  made  a  sacrifice  of  3000Z.  sterling  to  this  noble  act 
of  humanity.  The  Translator  knows  the  country  too  well  not  to  feel 
the  force  of  the  Author's  subsequent  reasoning  on  the  difficulty  and 
danger  of  a  general  emancipation  of  the  negroes,  nor  after  mature  re 
flection  now,  and  on  the  spot,  is  he  able  to  overcome  his  objections. 
But  God,  in  his  divine  providence,  forbid  that  so  splendid  an  example 
of  active  virtue,  should  clash  with  the  unavoidable  policy,  or  the-  neces 
sary  welfare  of  society  ! — Trans. 


£82  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

she  takes  great  care  of  her  negroes,  makes  them  as  happy  as 
their  situation  will  admit,  and  serves  them  herself  as  a  doctor 
in  time  of  sickness.  She  has  even  made  some  interesting  dis 
coveries  on  the  disorders  incident  to  them,  and  discovered  a 
very  salutary  method  of  treating  a  sort  of  putrid  fever  which 
carries  them  off  commonly  in  a  few  days,  and  against  which 
the  physicians  of  the  country  have  exerted  themselves  without 
success. 

The  29th,  the  whole  of  which  day  I  spent  at  Westover,  fur 
nishes  nothing  interesting  in  this  journal,  except  some  informa 
tion  I  had  the  opportunity  of  acquiring  respecting  two  sorts  of 
animals,  of  very  different  species,  the  sturgeon  and  the  hum 
ming-bird.  As  I  was  walking  by  the  river-side,  I  saw  two  ne 
groes  carrying  an  immense  sturgeon,  and  on  my  asking  them 
how  they  had  taken  it,  they  told  me  at  this  season,  they  were  so 
common  as  to  be  taken  easily  in  a  seine  (a  sort  of  fishing-net,) 
and  that  fifteen  or  twenty  were  found  sometimes  in  the  net; 
but  that  there  was  a  much  more  simple  method  of  taking  them, 
which  they  had  just  been  using.  This  species  of  monsters, 
which  are  so  active  in  the  evening  as  to  be  perpetually  leaping 
to  a  great  height  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  usually  sleep 
profoundly  at  mid-day.*  Two  or  three  negroes  then  proceed 


*  From  General  Washington's  house,  which  stands  on  the  lofty  banks 
of  the  Potomac,  in  a  situation  more  magnificent  than  I  can  paint  to 
an  European  imagination,  I  have  seen  for  several  hours  together,  in  a 
summer's  evening,  hundreds,  perhaps  I  might  say  thousands  of  sturgeon, 
at  a  great  height  from  the  water  at  the  same  instant,  so  that  the  quan 
tity  in  the  river  must  have  been  inconceivably  great ;  but  notwithstand 
ing  the  rivers  in  Virginia  abound  with  fish,  they  are  by  no  means  plen 
tiful  at  table,  such  is  the  indolence  of  the  inhabitants ! 

Mr.  Lund  Washington,  a  relation  of  the  General's,  and  who  managed 
all  his  affairs  during  his  nine  years'  absence  with  the  army,  informed 
me  that  an  English  frigate  having  come  up  the  Potomac,  a  party  was 
landed  who  set  fire  to  and  destroyed  some  gentlemen's  houses  on  the 
Maryland  side  in  sight  of  Mount  Vernon,  the  General's  house  ;  after 
which  the  Captain,  (I  think  Captain  Graves  of  the  Acteon)  sent  a  boat 
on  shore  to  the  General's,  demanding  a  large  supply  of  provisions,  &c. 
with  a  menace  of  burning  it  likewise  in  case  of  a  refusal.  To  this 
message  Mr.  Lund  Washington  replied,  "  that  when  the  General  enga 
ged  in  the  contest  he  had  put  all  to  stake,  and  was  well  aware  of  the 
exposed  situation  of  his  house  and  property,  in  consequence  of  which 
he  had  given  him  orders  by  no  means  to  comply  with  any  such  de 
mands,  for  that  he  would  make  no  unworthy  compromise  with  the  en 
emy,  and  was  ready  to  meet  the  fate  of  his  neighbours."  The  Captain 
was  highly  incensed  on  receiving  this  answer,  and  removed  his  frigate 
to  the  Virginia  shore  ;  but  before  he  commenced  his  operations,  he 
sent  another  message  to  the  same  purport,  offering  likewise  a  passport 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  283 

in  a  little  boat  furnished  with  a  long  cord,  at  the  end  of  which 
is  a  sharp  iron  crook,  which  they  hold  suspended  like  a  log  line. 
As  soon  as  they  find  this  line  stopped  by  some  obstacle,  they 
draw  it  forcibly  towards  them,  so  as  to  strike  the  hook  into  the 
sturgeon,  which  they  either  drag  out  of  the  water,  or  which, 
after  some  struggling,  and  losing  all  its  blood,  floats  at  length 
upon  the  surface,  and  is  easily  taken. 

As  for  the  humming-birds,  I  saw  them  for  the  first  time,  and 
was  never  tired  of  beholding  them.  The  walls  of  the  garden 
and  the  house  were  covered  with  honeysuckles,  which  afforded 
an  ample  harvest  for  these  charming  little  animals.  I  saw 
them  perpetually  flying  over  the  flowers,  on  which  they  feed 
without  ever  alighting,  for  it  is  by  supporting  themselves  on 
their  wings  that  they  insinuate  their  beaks  into  the  calix  of  the 
flowers.  Sometimes  they  perch,  but  it  is  only  for  a  moment; 
it  is  then  only  one  has  an  opportunity  of  admiring  the  beauty 
of  their  plumage,  especially  when  opposite  to  the  sun,  and 
when  in  removing  their  heads,  they  display  the  brilliant  ena 
mel  of  their  red  necks,  which  almost  rival  the  splendour  of  the 
ruby  or  the  diamond.  It  is  not  true  that  they  are  naturally 
passionate,  and  that  they  tear  to  pieces  the  flowers  in  which  they 
find  no  honey.  I  have  never  observed  any  such  circumstance 
myself,  either  at  Westover  or  Williamsburgh ;  and  the  inhabit 
ants  of  the  country  assured  me,  that  they  had  never  rnade  any 
such  observation.  These  birds  appear  only  with  the  flowers,  with 
which  likewise  they  disappear,  and  no  person  can  tell  what 


to  Mr.  Washington  to  come  on  board  :  he  returned  accordingly  in. 
the  boat,  carrying  with  him  a  small  present  of  poultry,  of  which  ho 
begged  the  Captain's  acceptance.  His  presence  produced  the  best  ef 
fect,  he  was  hospitably  received  notwithstanding  he  repeated  the  same 
sentiments  with  the  same  firmness.  The  Captain  expressed  his  per 
sonal  respect  for  the  character  of  the  General,  commending  the  con 
duct  of  Mr.  Lund  Washington,  and  assured  him  nothing  but  his  having 
misconceived  the  terms  of  the  first  answer  could  have  induced  him  for  a 
moment  to  entertain  the  idea  of  taking  the  smallest  measure  offensive 
to  so  illustrious  a  character  as  the  General,  explaining  at  the  same 
time  the  real  or  supposed  provocations  which  had  compelled  his  seve 
rity  on  the  other  side  of  the  river.  Mr.  Washington,  after  spending 
some  time  in  perfect  harmony  on  board,  returned,  and  instantly  de 
spatched  sheep,  hogs,  and  an  abundant  supply  of  other  articles  as  a  pre 
sent  to  the  English  frigate.  The  Translator  hopes  that  in  the  present 
state  of  men  and  measures  in  England,  Mr.  Graves,  or  whoever  the 
Captain  of  that  frigate  was,  will  neither  be  offended  at  this  anecdote, 
nor  be  afraid  to  own  himself  the  actor  in  this  generous  transaction. 
Henry  IVth  supplied  Paris  with  provisions  whilst  he  was  blockading  it ! 
T-  Trans. 


284  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

becomes  of  them.  Some  are  of  opinion  that  they  hide  them 
selves,  and  remain  torpid  the  remainder  of  the  year.  In  fact, 
it  is  difficult  to  conceive  how  their  wings,  which  are  so  slight 
and  slender  as  to  be  imperceptible  if  not  in  motion,  could  pos 
sibly  resist  the  winds,  and  transport  them  to  distant  climates. 
They  are  not  intractable,  for  I  have  seen  one  of  them,  which 
was  taken  a  few  days  before,  in  no  wise  frightened  at  the  per 
sons  who  looked  at  it,  but  flew  about  the  room,  as  in  a  garden, 
and  sucked  the  flowers  which  they  presented  to  it ;  but  it  did 
not  live  above  a  week.  These  birds  are  so  fond  of  motion, 
that  it  is  impossible  for  them  to  live  without  the  enjoyment  of 
the  most  unrestrained  liberty.  It  is  difficult  even  to  catch 
them,  unless  they  happen,  as  was  the  case  with  that  I  am  speak 
ing  of,  to  fly  into  the  chamber,  or  be  driven  there  by  the  wind. 
An  inhabitant  of  the  country,  who  amused  himself  in  preser 
ving  them  for  his  cabinet,  has  discovered  a  very  ingenious  me 
thod  of  killing,  without  disfiguring  them.  This  is  a  very  diffi 
cult  undertaking  ;  for  a  single  grain  of  small  shot  is  a  cannon 
bullet  for  so  small  a  creature.  This  method  is  to  load  his  gun 
with  a  bladder  filled  with  water.  The  explosion  of  this  water 
is  sufficient  to  knock  down  the  humming-bird,  and  deprive  it  of 
motion. 


CHAPTER  V. 


RETURN  TO  WILLIAMSBURGH— -  CONCLUSION* 

THE  reader  will  certainly  not  accuse  me  of  playing  the  ora 
tor,  and  reserving  objects  of  the  greatest  magnitude  for  the 
end  of  my  discourse ;  for  I  'shall  here  conclude  my  journal. 
It  is  unnecessary  to  speak  of  my  return  to  Williamsburgh,  un 
less  it  be  worthy  of  remark,  that  the  Chickahominafi"  which  is 
only  a  secondary  river,  since  it  falls  into  that  of  James,  is  yet 
so  wide,  six  miles  from  its  conflux,  that  I  was  three  quarters  of 
an  hour  in  passing  it.  But  if  he  will  still  favour  me  with  his 
attention,  I  shall  terminate  this  long  narrative  of  a  short  jour 
ney,  by  some  observations  on  a  country  I  have  travelled  through, 
and  inhabited  long  enough  to  know  it  thoroughly. 

The  Virginians  differ  essentially  from  the  inhabitants  to  the 
north  and  eastward  of  the  bay,  (of  Chesapeake)  notonly  in  the 
nature  of  their  climate,  that  of  their  soil,  and  the  objects  of  cul 
tivation  peculiar  to  it,  but  in  that  indelible  character  which  is 
imprinted  on  every  nation  at  the  moment  of  its  origin,  and 
which  by  perpetuating  itself  from  generation  to  generation, 
justifies  the  following  great  principles,  that  every  thing  which 
is,  partakes  of  that  which  has  been.     The  discovery  of  Virgi 
nia  dates  from  the  .end  of  the  sixteenth  century,  and  the  settle 
ment  of  the  colony  took  place  at  the  commencement  of  the 
seventeenth.     These  events  passed  in  the  reigns  oif  Elizabeth 
and  James  the  first.    The  republican  and  democratical  spirit 
was  not  then  common  in  England  ;  that  of  commerce  and  navi 
gation  was  scarcely  in  its  infancy ;  and  the  long  wars  with 
France  and  Spain  had  perpetuated,  under  another  form,  the 
same  military  cast  given  to  the  nation  by  William  the  Conquer 
or,  Richard,  Coeur  de  Lion,  Edward  the  third,  and  the  Black 
Prince.    There  were  no  longer  any  Knights  Errant,  as  in  the 
time  of  the  Crusades,  but  in  their  place  rose  a  number  of  ad 
venturers  who  served  indifferently  their  own  country,  and  fo 
reign  powers,  and  gentlemen,  who  disdaining  agriculture  and 
commerce,  had  no  other  profession  but  that  of  arms  ;  for  at 
that  period  the  military  spirit  maintained  the  prejudices  fa 
vourable  to  that  nobility,  from  which  it  was  long  inseparable  ; 
besides  that  the  dignity  of  the  peerage,  from  being  less  com 
mon  in  England,  gave  more  eclat  and  more  consistence  to  those 


286  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

who  possessed  it  by  hereditary  right.     The  first  colonists  of 
Virginia  were  composed,  in  a  great  measure,  of  such  soldiers, 
and  such  gentlemen,  some  of  whom  went  in  search  of  fortune, 
and  others,  of  adventures.     And  in  fact,  if  the  establishment  of 
a  colony  requires  all  the  industry  of  the  merchant  and  the  cul 
tivator,   the  discovery,   and  conquest  of  unknown  countries 
seems  more  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  ideas  of  the  warlike  and 
romantic.     Accordingly  the  first  company  which  obtained  the 
exclusive  property  of  Virginia,  was  principally  composed  of 
men  the  most  distinguished  by  their  rank  or  birth  ;  and  though 
all  these  illustrious  proprietors  did  not  actually  become  colo 
nists,  several  of  them  were  not  afraid  to  pass  the  seas  ;  and  a 
Lord  Delaware  was  among  the   first  Governors   of  Virginia. 
It  was  natural  therefore  for  these  new  colonists,  who  were  fill 
ed  with  military  principles,  and  the  prejudices  of  nobility,  to 
carry  them  into  the  midst  even  of  the  savages  whose  lands  they 
were  usurping  ;  and  of  all  our  European  ideas,  these  were  what 
the  unpolished  tribes  most  readily   conceived.     I  know  that 
there  now  remains  but  an  inconsiderable  number  of  these  an 
cient  families,  but  they  have  retained  a  great  estimation,  and 
the  first  impulse  once  given,  it  is  not  in  the  power  of  any  legis 
lator,  nor  even  of  time  itself,  wholly  to  destroy  its  effect.     The 
government  may  become  democratic,  as  it  is  at  the  present 
moment ;  but  the  national  character,  the  spirit  of  the  govern 
ment  itself,  will  be  always  aristocratic.     Nor  can  this  be  doubt 
ed,  when  we  take  into  consideration  another  cause,  co-opera 
ting  with  the  former  ;  I  mean  to  speak  of  slavery  ;  not  that  it 
is  any  mark  of  distinction,  or  peculiar  privilege  to  possess  ne 
groes,  but  because  the  empire  men  exercise  over  them  cherish-  „/' 
es  vanity  and  sloth,  two  vices  which  accord  wonderfully  with 
the  already  established  prejudices.     It  will,  doubtless,  be  ask 
ed,  how  these  prejudices  have  been  brought  to  coincide  with  a 
revolution  founded  on  such  different  principles.     I  shall  an 
swer  that  they  have  even  perhaps  contributed  to  produce  it. 
That  whilst  the  revolt  of  New-England  was  the  result  of  rea 
son  and  calculation,  pride  possibly  had  no  inconsiderable  share 
in  dictating  the  measures  of  Virginia.     I  shall  add,  what  I  have 
above  hinted,  that  in  the  beginning,  even  the  indolence  of  this 
people  may  have  been  useful  to  them,  as  it  obliged  them  to 
rely  upon  a  small  number  of  virtuous  and  enlightened  citizens, 
who  led  them  farther  than  they  would  have  proceeded,  without 
a  guide,  had  they  consulted  only  their  own  dispositions.     For 
it  must  be  allowed,  that  Virginia  stepped  forth  with  a  good 
grace,  at  the  very  commencement  of  the  troubles  ;  that  she 
was  the  first  to  offer  succours  to  the  Bostonians,  and  the  first, 
also  to  set  on  foot  a  considerable  body  of  troops.     But  it  may 
likewise  be  observed,  that  as  soon  as  the  new  legislature  was 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  287 

established,  and  when,  instead  of  leaders,  she  had  a  govern 
ment,  the  mass  of  citizens  was  taking  part  in  that  government, 
the  national  character  prevailed,  and  every  thing  went  worse 
and  worse.  Thus,  states,  like  individuals,  are  born  with  a  par 
ticular  complexion,  the  bad  effects  of  which  may  be  corrected 
by  regimen  and  habits,  but  can  never  be  entirely  changed. 
Thus,  legislators,  like  physicians,  ought  never  to  flatter  them 
selves  that  they  can  bestow,  at  pleasure,  a  particular  tempera 
ment  on  bodies  politic,  but  strive  to  discover  what  they  already 
have,  and  thence  study  to  remedy  the  inconveniences,  and  mul 
tiply  the  advantages  resulting  from  it. 

A  general  glance  at  the  different  States  of  America  will 
serve  to  justify  this  opinion.  The  people  of  New-England  had 
no  other  motive  for  settling  in  the  new  world,  than  to  escape 
from  the  arbitrary  power  of  their  monarchs,  who,  at  once,  sove 
reigns  of  the  state,  and  heads  of  the  church,  exercised  at  that 
period  the  double  tyranny  of  despotism  and  intolerance.  They 
were  not  adventurers,  they  were  men  who  wished  to  live  in 
peace,  and  who  laboured  for  their  subsistence.  Their  princi- 
pies  taught  them  equality,  and  disposed  them  to  industrious 
pursuits.  The  soil,  naturally  barren,  affording  them  but  scanty 
resources,  they  attached  themselves  to  fishing  and  navigation  ; 
and  at  this  hour,  they  are  still  friends  to  equality  and  indus 
try  ;  they  are  fishermen  and  navigators.  The  states  of  New- 
York,  and  the  Jerseys,  were  peopled  by  necessitous  Dutchmen 
who  wanted  land  in  their  own  country,  and  occupied  them 
selves  more  about  domestic  economy  than  the  public  govern 
ment.  These  people  have  preserved  the  same  character ;  their 
interests,  their  efforts,  so  to  speak,  are  personal ;  their  views 
are  concentered  in  their  families,  and  it  is  only  from  necessity 
that  these  families  are  formed  into  a  state.  Accordingly,  when 
General  Burgoyne  was  on  his  march  to  Albany,  the  New-Eng- 
landmen  chiefly  contributed  to  impede  his  progress ;  and,  if 
the  inhabitants  of  the  State  of  New- York  and  the  Jerseys  have 
often  taken  arms,  and  displayed  courage,  it  is  because  the  for 
mer  were  animated  by  an  inveterate  hatred  against  the  savages, 
which  generally  preceded  the  English  armies,*  and  the  latter 


*  The  employing  the  Indians,  independent  of  the  measure,  it  is  now 
pretty  generally  admitted,  produced  consequences  directly  opposite  to 
the  interest  of  Great-Britain  ;  uniting  the  inhabitants  of  all  the  coun 
tries  liable  to  their  incursions  as' one  man  against  them  and  their  allies, 
and  producing  such  bloody  scenes  of  inveterate  animosity  and  ven 
geance  as  make  human  nature  shudder.  The  following  narrative  will 
prove  how  far  men  of  all  casts,  colours,  and  religions,  resemble  each 
other  in  similar  situations,  and  to  what  lengths  even  the  Christians  of 


288  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

were  excited  to  take  personal  vengeance  for  the  excesses  com 
mitted  by  the  troops  of  the  enemy,  -when  they  over-ran  the 
country.*  If  you  go  farther  to  the  south,  and  pass  the  Dela 
ware,  you  will  find  that  the  government  of  Pennsylvania,  in  its 
origin,  was  founded  on  two  very  opposite  principles;  it  was  a 
government  of  property,  a  government  in  itself  feudal,  or,  if 
you  will,  patriarchal,  but  the  spirit  of  which  was  the  greatest 
toleration,  and  the  most  complete  liberty.  Penn?s  family  at 


an  enlightened  age  can  go,  when  compelled  to  act  under  the  guidance 
of  the  worst  passions.  The  inhabitants  of  the  back  frontiers  of  Penn 
sylvania,  goaded  to  fury  by  the  ravages  committed  on  them  by  the  In 
dians,  and  by  the  murder  of  their  families  and  kindred,  collected  the 
militia  in  the  beginning  of  1782,  and  took  the  field  against  their  sa 
vage  intruders.  In  one  of  their  excursions  they  fell  in  with  a  small 
tribe  of  Christian  Indians,  called  the  Muskingums,  who  being  suspect 
ed  of  attachment  to  the  Americans,  had  been  for  some  time  confined 
at  Detroit,  and  were  released  only  on  condition  of  observing  a  strict 
neutrality,  since  they  could  not  be  persuaded  to  take  arms.  These  un 
happy  wretches,  to  the  number  of  about  two  hundred,  returning  to 
their  habitations,  were  employed  in  putting  their  seed-corn  into  the 
ground,  when  they  were  surprised  by  the  American  militia.  In  vain 
did  they  urge  their  situation,  and  their  sufferings  from  the  British  ; 
they  were  Indians,  and  their,  cap  tors,  men  who  had  lost  sons,  brothers, 
fathers,  wives,  or  children  in  this  horrid  war ;  no  other  plea  was  neces 
sary  to  palliate  their  meditated  vengeance.  The  Indians  were  shut 
up  in  a  barn,  and  ordered  to  prepare  for  death,  but  with  this  barbarous 
consolation,  that,  as  they  were  Christian  converts,  they  should  be  al 
lowed  a  respite  till  the  next  morning.  The  innocent  victims  spent  the 
night  in  singing  Moravian  hymns,  and  in  other  acts  of  Christian  devo 
tion  ;  and  in  the  morning,  men,  women,  and  children,  were  led  to  the 
slaughter,  and  butchered  by  their  fellow  worshippers  of  the  meek  Jesus  ! 
The  Moravians  at  Bethlehem  and  Nazareth,  whose  missionaries  had 
converted  them,  made  strong  representations  to  Congress  on  the  subject. 
I  was  at  Philadelphia  when  the  news  arrived  ;  and  it  is  but  justice  to 
say,  that  horror  was  painted  on  every  countenance,  and  every  mind  was 
at  work  to  devise  expedients  for  avenging  this  atrocious  murder  ;  but 
after  various  efforts,  both  Congress  and  the  Assembly  of  the  State  were 
found  unequal  to  the  punishment  of.  these  assassins,  who  were  armed, 
distant  from  the  seat  of  government,  the  only  safeguard  and  protection 
of  the  frontiers,  and  from  their  own  savage  nature  alone  fit  to  cope 
with  the  dreadful  enemy  brought  into  action  by  the  British. 

*  The  murder  committed  on  Mrs.  Maxwell,  the  wife  of  a  respecta 
ble  and  popular  clergyman  in  the  Jerseys,  and  afterwards  on  himself, 
with  similar  acts  of  cruelty  perpetrated  by  a  licentious  soldiery,  and 
unprincipled  refugees,  inflamed  the  minds  of  a  great  body  of  the  inha 
bitants,  particularly  of  the  Dutch  and  their  descendants,  who,  as  the 
Marquis  observes,  were  certainly  disposed  at  least  to  a  neutrality. — 
Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  ->89 

first  formed  the  vain  project  of  establishing  a  sort  of  Utopia,  or 
perfect  government,  and  afterwards  of  deriving  the  greatest 
possible  advantage  from  their  immense  property,  by  attracting 
foreigners  from  all  parts.     Here  it  arises  that  the  people  of 
Pennsylvania  have  no  characteristic  assimilation,  that  they  are 
intermingled  and  confounded,  and  more  actuated  to  individual, 
than  to  public  liberty,  more  inclined  to  anarchy  than  to  demo 
cracy.*  Maryland,  subjected  in  the  first  instance  to  a  proprie 
tary  government,  and  considered  only  as  a  private  domain, 
remained  long  in  a  state  of  the  most  absolute  dependence. 
This  is  the  first  time  she  merits  to  be  regarded  as  a  state  ;  but 
this  state  seems  to  be  forming  under  good  auspices ;  she  may 
become  of  great  weight  after  the  present  revolution,  because 
she  was  formerly  of  no  significance.     The  two  Carolinas  and 
Georgia  are  next  to  be  considered ;  but  I  am  not  sufficiently 
acquainted  with  these  three  states  to  hazard  on  them  any  ob 
servations,  which  may  not  be  so  just  in  fact  as  they  appear  to 
me  ;  but  which  are  at  least  of  a  delicate  nature,  and  require 
more  than  a  superficial  examination.     I  only  know,,  that  North- 
Carolina,  peopled  by  Scotsmen,  brought  thither  by  poverty,  ra 
ther  than  by  industry,  is  a  prey  to  acts  of  pillage,  and  tointer- 


*  The  Irish  and  the  Germans  form  the  most  numerous  part  of  the 
inhabitants  of  Pennsylvania.     The  latter,  if  I  am  not  mistaken,  con 
stitutes  a  fifth,  if  not  a  fourth,  of  the  whole  number,  and  are  a  most 
useful,  industrious  body  of  men,  well  versed  in  the  mechanic  arts  and 
agriculture.     I  have  travelled  several  days  in  the  interior  parts  of  that 
state,  and  heard  scarcely  any  other  language  than  German,  the  acts  of 
Congress,  and  the  State  are  promulgated  in  that  language,  German 
Gazettes  are  published  at  Philadelphia,  and  in  general  they  proved 
themselves  true  friends  to  the  revolution.     Congress  availing  them 
selves  of  this  circumstance,  very  politically  encamped  the  Brunswick, 
and  other  German  troops  taken   with  Burgoyne,   near  the  town  of 
Reading,  where  I  saw  them.     The  neighbourhood  abounding  with 
their  countrymen,  the  men  had  permission  to  work  at  harvest,  and  other 
trades,  and  soon  formed  connexions  with  the  females  of  the  country. 
Calculating  their  market  price,  and  the  obligation  they  lay  under  to  re 
store  them,  or  their  prime  cost,  they  took  every  measure  to  prevent  them 
from  remaining  in  the  country  ;  for  which  purpose,  they  transmitted  but 
small  sums  at  a  time  by  their  commissaries  from  New- York,  taking  care 
to  keep  large  arrears  in  their  hands,  as  a  temptation  for  their  return.  But 
all  these  precautions  were,  as  may  naturally  be  imagined,  but  of  a  par 
tial  effect,  with  men  habituated  to  a  country  of  freedom,  wherein  they 
felt  themselves  restored  to  their  natural  rights,  and  animated  by  the  ex 
ample  of  their  countrymen,  enjoying  the  full  comforts  of  their  hones', 
industry  ;  contrasted  too  with  the  degraded  state  of  a  wretched  merce 
nary,  held  up  to  sale  by  his  arbitrary  master. — Trans. 

37 


290  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

nal  dissensions  :*  that  South-Carolina,  possessing  a  commerce, 
wholly  of  exportation,  owes  its  existence  to  its  sea-ports,  espe 
cially  to  that  of  Charleston,  which  has  rapidly  increased,  and  is 
become  a  commercial  town,  in  which  strangers  abound,  as  at 


*  It  is  true  that  a  great  number  of  Scotsmen  are  settled  in  North- 
Carolina,  but  that  they  were  not  even  the  majority  of  the  inhabitants,  is 
vary  apparent  from  the  events  of  the  late  revolution  ;  for  the  Scots, 
though  loyalists  nearly  to  a  man,  were  repeatedly  defeated,  and  finally 
crushed  by  the  militia  ofthe  country.  Notwithstanding  her  efforts  appeared 
less  concentered,  and  more  vaguely  directed,  owing  to  the  local  cir 
cumstances  of  the  province,  and  the  dispersed  state  of  the  inhabitants, 
rather  than  disinclination  to  the  cause,  North-Carolina  rendered  most 
essential  services,  by  her  exertions  in  the  field,  and  the  delegates  she 
sent  to  Congress.  Her  constitution  of  government,  contracted  as  it  is, 
is  not  perhaps  inferior  to  many  in  the  confederacy,  and  bespeaks  the  wis 
dom  of"  the  enlightened  few,"  to  which  the  Marquis  attributes  the  wise 
councils  of  Virginia.     It  was  the  North-Carolina  militia  which  gave 
the  first  turn  to  the  ruined  affairs  of  America  to   the  southward,  by 
their  spirited  attack  and  defeat  of  Colonel  Ferguson  at  King's  Moun 
tain.     The  translator,  who  was  then  in  England,  received,  by  a  pri 
vate  channel,  the  first  intelligence  of  that  important  event,  which  he 
communicated  to  the  public  ;  but  the  circumstances  of  the  surprise  of 
a  large  body  of  British  troops,  flushed  with  the  capture  of  Charleston, 
and  the  victory  at  Camden,  by  a  body  of  1600   horsemen,  from  the 
back  country  of  North- Carolina,  appeared  so   extraordinary,  that  he 
could  not  obtain  credit  for  the  fact,  either  with  the  friends  to  America, 
or  the  ministerial  party  in  that  country.     The  Ministers  had  no  intel 
ligence  of  the  matter,  and  the  easterly  winds  then  happening  to  pre 
vail  for  a  period  of  six  weeks,  it  was  treated  as  a  fiction,  both  in  and 
out  of  Parliament,  and  the  translator  !is  an  enthusiast  or  a  fabricator  of 
false  news.     Time,  however,  verified  the  fact,  which  he  knew  to  be 
authentic,  to  its  full  extent,  viz.  that  Colonel  Ferguson,  with  eight 
hundred  British  troops,  had  been  surprised  ;  himself  slain,  and   his 
whole  force  defeated  by  sixteen  hundred  Carolina  militia,  mounted  on 
horseback,  hastily  collected,  and  commanded  by  a  few  militia  Colonels  ! 
This  spirited  and  successful  enterprise,  with  its  consequences,  merits 
certainly  a  conspicuous  place  in  the  history  of  this  great  revolution  ; 
for,  like  the  surprise  at  Trenton,  it  changed  the  whole  face  of  affairs, 
and  restored  energy  to  the  friends  of  America  in  that  important  seat  of 
war. 

North-Carolina  is  a  very  fine  country,  beautifully  diversified  with 
pleasant  hills,  large  valleys,  and  noble  rivers,  though  none  of  them  is 
navigable  for  vessels  above  80  tons,  except  the  rivers  Fear  and  Cla 
rendon  ;  yet  as  they  intersect  the  country  in  every  direction,  they  are 
admirably  calculated  for  inland  navigation.  There  are,  for  this  reason, 
no  large  towns  ;  but,  from  the  various  produce  of  this  state,  and  the 
rapid  increase  of  population,  the  white  inhabitants,  now  amounting  to 
near  two  hundred  thousand,  there  is  every  reason  to  believe  that  it  will 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  291 

Marseilles  and  Amsterdam  :*  that  the  manners  there  are  con 
sequently  polished  and  easy  :  that  the  inhabitants  love  pleasure, 
the  arts,  and  society  ;  and  that  this  country  is  more  European 
in  its  manners  than  any  in  America. 

Now,  if  there  be  any  accuracy  in  this  sketch,  let  me  desire 
the  reader  to  compare  the  spirit  of  the  American  States  with 
their  present  government.  I  desire  him  to  form  the  compari 
son  at  the  present  moment,  in  twenty,  or  in  fifty  years  hence, 
and  I  am  persuaded,  that  since  all  these  governments  resemble, 
each  other,  as  they  are  all  democratical,  he  will  still  discover 
tlie  traces  of  that  original  character,  of  that  spirit  which  pre 
sides  at  the  formation  of  people,  and  at  the  establishment  of 
nations. 

Virginia  will  retain   this   discriminating  character  longer 
than  the  other  states;  whether  it  be  that  prejudices  are  more 
durable,  the  more  absurd,  and  the  more  frivolous  they  are,  or 
that  those  which  injure  a  part  only  of  the  human  race,  are 
more  subject  to  remark  than  thtfse  which  affect  all  mankind. 
In  the  present  revolution,  the  ancient  families  have  seen,  with 
pain,  new  men  occupying  distinguished  situations  in  the  army, 
and  in  the  magistracy;  arid  the  tories  have  even  hence  drawn 
advantages,  to  cool  the  ardour  of  the  less  zealous  of  the  whi^s. 
But  the  popular  party  have  maintained  their  ground,  and  it  is 
only  to  be  regretted  that  they  have  not   displayed  the  same  / 
activity  in  combating  the  English,  as  in  disputing  precedences. 
It  is  to  be  apprehended,  however,  that  circumstances  becoming 
less  favourable  to  them,  on  a  peace,    they  may  be  obliged 
entirely  to  give  way,  or   to  support  themselves   by  factions, 
which  must  necessarily  disturb   the  order  of  society.     But  if 
reason    ought    to   blush    at   beholding   such    prejudices    so 
strongly  established  among  a  new  people,  humanity  has  still 
more  to  suffer,  from  the  state  of  poverty,  in  which  a  great  num 
ber  of  white  people  live  in  Virginia.     It  is  in  this  country  that 
I  saw  poor  persons,  for  the  first  time,  after  I  passed  the  sea  ; 
for,  in  the  midst  of  those  rich  plantations,  where  the  negro 


become  not  one  of  the  least  considerable  on  the  continent,  nor  will  the 
philosopher  view  the  circumstances  which  forbid  the  formation  of 
large  towns  as  an  evil,  either  in  this  country  or  in  Virginia. — Trans. 

*  The  author  here  refers  to  the  former  situation  of  the  province  ; 
but  as  I  have  already  mentioned,  the  interior  of  this  extensive  state  is 
daily  peopling  with  a  race  of  healthy,  industrious  planters,  and  is  high 
ly  susceptible  of  every  species  of  improvement.  As  for  sea-ports, 
there  are  none  worth  mentioning  but  Charleston  ;  and  as  for  Georgia, 
its  position  is  in  every  respect  similar  to  that  of  South-Carolina. — 
Trans. 


292  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA, 

alone  is  wretched,  miserable  huts  are  often  to  be  met  with,  in 
habited  by  whites,  whose  wane  looks,  and  ragged  garments, 
bespeak  poverty.  At  first  I  was  puzzled  to  explain  to  myself, 
how,  in  a  country  where  there  is  still  so  much  land  to  clear, 
men  who  do  not  refuse  to  work,  should  remain  in  misery ;  but 
I  have  since  learned,  that  all  these  useless  territories,  these  im 
mense  estates,  with  which  Virginia  is  covered,  have  their  pro 
prietors.  Nothing  is  more  common  than  to  see  some  of  them 
possessing  five  or  six  thousand  acres  of  land,  who  clear  out 
only  as  much  as  their  negroes  can  cultivate ;  yet  will  they  not 
give,  nor  even  sell  the  smallest  portion  of  them,  because 
they  form  a  part  of  their  possessions,  and  they  are  in 
hopes  of  one  day  augmenting  the  number  of  their  ne 
groes.  These  white  men,  without  fortune,  and  frequently 
without  industry,  are  straitened,  therefore,  on  every  side,  and 
reduced  to  the  small  number  of  acres  they  are  able  to  acquire. 
Now,  the  land  not  being  good  in  general  in  America,*  espe 
cially  in  Virginia,  a  considerable  number  of  them  is  necessary, 
in  order  to  clear  it  with  success,  because  they  are  the  cattle 
from  which  the  cultivator  derives  his  aid  and  his  subsistence. 
To  the  eastward  are  a  great  number  of  cleared  grounds,  but  the 
portions  of  land  which  are  easily  purchased  there,  and  for  al 
most  nothing,  consist  always  of  at  least  two  hundred  acres ; 
besides,  that  to  the  southward,  the  climate  is  less  healthy,  and 
the  new  settlers,  without  partaking  of  the  wealth  of  Virginia, 
share  all  the  inconveniencies  of  the  climate,  and  even  the 
indolence  it  inspires.f 


*  The  land,  within  the  mountains,  in  the  hitherto  settled  parts  of 
North-America,  are  not.  in  general  very  good,  and  it  is  of  these  only 
that  the  Marquis  speaks  ;  but  as  the  authors  of  iheNouvelk  Encyclope- 
die  observe,  in  their  new  article  of  the  United  States,  this  must  have 
been  the  case  in  almost  every  new  country,  the  soil  of  Europe  having 
been  meliorated  by  the  progress  of  population,  the  quantity  of  manure, 
and  the  means  by  which  the  earth  is  protected  from  the  effects  of  heavy 
rains,  &c.  by  care  and  cultivation.  Abbe  Raynal's  remarks  on  this 
subject,  in  his  last  work,  called  the  Revolution  of  America,  discover  so 
much  ignorance  as  scarcely  to  merit  the  elaborate  discussion  bestow 
ed  on  them  by  the  ingenious  authors  of  the  Encydopedie,  who  have 
likewise  transcribed  from  him  several  important  passages,  which  have 
been  ably  and  fully  refuted  by  Mr.  Payne. — Trans. 

t  The  indolence  and  dissipation  of  the  middling  and  lower  classes 
of  white  inhabitants  of  Virginia,  are  such  as  to  give  pain  to  every  re 
flecting  mind.  Horse-racing,  cock-fighting,  and  boxing-matches,  are 
standing  amusements,  for  which  they  neglect  all  business  ;  and  in  the 
latter  of  which  they  conduct  themselves  with  a  barbarity  worthy  of 
their  savage  neighbours.  The  ferocious  practice  of  stage-boxing  in 
England,  is  urbanity,  compared  with  the  Virginian  mode  of  fighting. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  203 

Beneath  this  class  of  inhabitants,  we  must  place  the  negroesv 
whose  situation  would  be  still  more  lamentable,  did  not  their 
natural  insensibility  extenuate,  in  some  degree,  the  sufferings 
annexed  to  slavery.  On  seeing  them  ill  lodged,  ill  clothed, 
and  often  oppressed  with  labour,  I  concluded  that  their  treat 
ment  was  as  rigorous  as  elsewhere.  I  have  been  assured,  how 
ever,  that  it  is  extremely  mild,  in  comparison  with  what  they 
suffer  in  the  sugar  colonies  ;  and,  in  truth,  you  do  not  usually 
hear,  as  at  Saint  Domingo,  and  Jamaica,  the  sound  of  whips, 
and  the  cries  of  the  unhappy  wretches  whose  bodies  they  are 


In  their  combats,  unless  specially  precluded,  they  are  admitted  (to  use 
their  own  term,)  "  to  bite  and  goudge,"  which  operations,  when  the 
first  onset  with  fists  is  over,  consists  in  fastening  on  the  nose  or  ears 
of  their  adversaries  with  their  teeth,  and  dexterously  scooping  out  an 
eye  ;  on  which  account  it  is  no  uncommon  circumstance  to  meet  men 
in  the  prime  of  youth,  deprived  of  one  of  those  organs.  This  is  no 
traveller's  exaggeration,  I  speak  from  knowledge  and  observation.  In 
the  summer  months  it  is  very  common  to  make  a  party  on  horseback 
to  a  limestone  spring,  near  which  there  is  usually  some  little  hut  with 
spirituous  liquors,  if  the  party  are  not  themselves  provided,  where  their 
debauch  frequently  terminates  in  a  boxing-match,  a  horse-race,  or  per 
haps  both.  During  a  day's  residence  at  Leesburgh,  I  was  myself  ac 
cidentally  drawn  into  one  of  these  parties,  where  1  soon  experienced 
the  strength  of  the  liquor,  which  was  concealed  by  the  refreshing  cool 
ness  of  the  water.  While  we  were  seated  round  the  spring,  at  the 
edge  of  a  delightful  wood,  four  or  five  countrymen  arrived,  headed  by  a 
veteran  cyclops,  the  terror  of  the  neighbourhood,  ready  on  every  occa 
sion  to  risk  his  remaining  eye.  We  soon  found  ourselves  under  the 
necessity  of  relinquishing  our  posts,  and  making  our  escape  from  these 
fellows,  who  evidently  sought  to  provoke  a  quarrel.  On  our  return 
home,  whilst  I  was  rejoicing  at  our  good  fortune,  and  admiring  the  mo 
deration  of  my  company,  we  arrived  at  a  plain  spot  of  ground  by  a 
wood  side,  on  which  my  horse  no  sooner  set  foot,  than  taking  the  bit 
between  his  teeth,  off  he  went  at  full  speed,  attended  by  the  whoops 
and  hallooings  of  my  companions.  An  Englishman  is  not  easily  thrown 
off  his  guard  on  horseback ;  but  at  the  end  of  half  a  mile  my  horse 
stopped  short,  as  if  he  had  been  shot,  and  threw  me  with  considerable 
violence  over  his  head  ;  my  buckle,  for  I  was  without  boots,  entangled 
me  in  the  stirrup,  but  fortunately  broke  into  twenty  pieces.  The  com 
pany  rode  up,  delighted  with  the  adventure  ;  and  it  was  then,  for  the 
first  time,  I  discovered  that  I  had  been  purposely  induced,  by  one  of 
my  friends,  to  change  horses  with  him  for  the  afternoon ;  that  his  horse 
had  been  accustomed  to  similar  exploits  on  the  same  race  ground ;  that 
the  whole  of  the  business  was  neither  more  nor  less  than  a  Virginian 
piece  of  pleasantry ;  and  that  my  friends  thought  they  had  exhibited 
great  moderation  in  not  exposing  me,  at  the  spring,  to  the  effects  of 
"  Hting  and  goudging." — Trans. 


294  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

tearing  to  pieces.*  This  arises  from  the  general  character  of 
the  Virginians,  which  is  more  mild  than  that  of  the  inhabitants 
of  the  sugar  islands,  who  consist  almost  entirely  of  rapacious 
men,  eager  and  pressing  to  make  fortunes  to  return  to  Europe. 
Another  reason  is,  that  the  produce  of  their  culture  not  being 
of  so  much  value,  labour  is  not  urged  on  them  with  so  much 
severity  ;  and  to  do  justice  to  both,  it  is  because  the  negroes, 
on  their  side,  are  not  so  much  addicted  to  cheating  and  thiev 
ing  as  in  the  islands.  For  the  propagation  of  the  black  spe 
cies  being  very  rapid,  and  very  considerable  here,  the  greatest 
part  of  the  negroes  are  born  in  the  country  ;  and  it  is  remarked 
that  they  are  generally  less  depraved  than  those  imported  from 
Africa.  I  must  likewise  do  the  Virginians  the  justice  to  de 
clare  that  many  of  them  treat  their  negroes  with  great  humani 
ty.  I  must  add,  likewise,  a  still  more  honourable  testimony, 
that  in  general  they  seem  afflicted  to  have  any  slavery,  and  are 
constantly  talking  of  abolishing  it,  and  of  contriving  some 
other  means  of  cultivating  their  estates.  It  is  true  that  this 
opinion,  which  is  almost  generally  received,  is  inspired  by  dif 
ferent  motives.  The  philosophers  and  the  young  men,  who 
are  almost  all  educated  in  the  principles  of  a  sound  philosophy, 
regard  nothing  but  justice,  and  the  rights  of  humanity.  The 
fathers  of  families  and  such  as  are  principally  occupied  with 


*  During  the  Translator's  residence  in  the  West-Indies,  he  took  con 
siderable  pains  to  inform  himself  of  the  different  modes  of  treatment  of 
the  negroes,  by  the  principal  European  nations,  possessing  colonies  in 
that  quarter  of  the  globe,  the  result  of  which  was,  that  the  Dutch  are 
the  most  cruel  ;  the  English  more  humane  ;  the  French  still  more  so  ; 
and  the  Spaniards  the  most  indulgent  masters.  He  was  greatly  struck 
with  this  gradation,  the  truth  of  which  seemed  to  be  confirmed  by  his 
own  observations  ;  but  he  leaves  it  to  others  to  decide  what  influence 
the  various  forms  of  government,  and  the  religious  principles  or  preju 
dices  of  each  of  these  nations,  may  have  in  the  operation  of  this  seem 
ing  paradox.  A  lover  of  truth  will  never  shrink  from  the  discussion  of 
any  question  interesting  to  humanity,  whatever  be  his  political  or  reli 
gious  bias.  The  Translator,  from  impulse,  and  from  reason,  is  a  stre 
nuous  assertor  of  the  rights  and  original  equality  of  mankind  ;  but  it. 
is  an  old  remark,  that  the  republicans  are  the  worst  masters,  a  position 
which  pursued  through  the  above  succession,  seems  in  some  measure 
to  receive  a  confirmation  ;  yet  to  him  appears  unaccountable  from  any 
given  principles,  unless  it  be  the  aristocratic  principles,  which  to  the 
misfortune  of  mankind,  have  hitherto  uniformly  taken  possession  of  all 
the  republican  governments,  and  baffled  the  foresight  of  the  virtuous 
and  good.  But  there  is  reason  to  hope  that  the  democracies  of  Ame 
rica  will  form  a  brilliant  and  consoling  exception  to  the  triumphant  re 
proaches  of  the  idolaters  of  regal  power. — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  29* 

schemes  of  interest,  complain  that  the  maintenance  of  their  ne 
groes  is  very  expensive ;  that  their  labour  is  neither  so  pro 
ductive  nor  so  cheap,  as  that  of  day  labourers,  or  white  ser 
vants  ;  and,  lastly,  that  epidemical  disorders,  which   are  very 
common,  render  both  their  property  and  their  revenue  extreme 
ly  precarious.     However  this  may  be,  it  is  fortunate  that  dif 
ferent  motives  concur  in  disgusting  men  with  that  tyranny 
which  they  exercise  upon  their  fellow  creatures  at  least,  if  not 
people  entirely  of  the  same  species  ;  for  the  more  we  regard 
the  negroes,  the  more  must  we  be  persuaded  that  the  differ 
ence  between  them  and  us,  consists  in  something  more  than 
complexion.     As  for  the  rest,  it  cannot  be  denied  that  it  is  a 
very  delicate  point  to  abolish  slavery  in  America.     The  ne 
groes  in  Virginia  amount  to  two  hundred  thousand.     They      , 
equal  at  least,  if  they  do  not  exceed  the  number  of  white  men. 
Necessarily  united  by  interest,  by  the  conformity  of  their  situa 
tion,  and  the  similarity  of  colour,  they  would  unquestionably  form 
a  distinct  people,  from  whom  neither  succour,  virtue,  nor  labour, 
could  be  expected.     Sufficient  attention  has  not  been  paid  to 
the  difference  between  slavery,  such  as  it  exists  in  our  colonies, 
and  the  slavery  which  was  generally  established  among  the 
ancients.     A  white  slave  had  no  other  cause  of  humiliation, 
than  his  actual  state  ;  on  his  being  freed,  he  mixed  immediate 
ly  with  free  men,  and  became  their  equal.     Hence  that  emu 
lation  among  the  slaves  to  obtain  their  liberty,  either  as  a  fa 
vour,  or  to  purchase  it  with  the  fruit  of  their  labour.     There 
were  two  advantages  in  this ;  the  possibility  of  enfranchising 
them  without  danger,  and  that  ambition,  which  almost  gene 
rally  took  place  among  them,  and  turned  to  the  advantage  of 
morals  and  of  industry.     But  in  the  present  case,  it  is  not  only 
the  slave  who  is  beneath  his  master,  it  is  the  negro  who  is  be 
neath  the  white  man.     No  act  of  enfranchisement  can  efface 
this  unfortunate  distinction  ;  accordingly  we  do  not  see  the  ne 
groes  very  anxious  to  obtain  their  freedom,  nor  much  pleased 
when  they  have  obtained  it.     The  free  negroes  continue  to 
live  with  the  negro  slaves,  and  never  with  the  white  men,  inso 
much  that  interest  alone  makes  them  desirous  of  quitting  slave 
ry,  when  they  are  endowed  with  a  particular  industry,  of  which 
they  wish  to  reap  the  profits.     It  appears,  therefore,  that  there 
is  no  othei  method  of  abolishing  slavery,  than  by  getting  rid 
of  the  negroes,  a  measure  which  must  be  very  gradually  adopt 
ed.     The  best  expedient  would  be  to  export  a  great  number 
of  males,  and  to  encourage  the  marriage  of  white  men  with  the   ; 
females.     For  this  purpose  the  law  must  be  abrogated  which 
transmits  slavery  by  the  side  of  the  mother ;  or  it  might  be 
enacted,  that  every  female  slave  shall  become,  ipso  facto,  free, 
by  marrying  a  freeman.     From  respect  to  property,  perhaps  it 


296  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

might  be  just  to  require  of  the  latter,  a  compensation  to  be  tix- 
cd  by  law,  to  be  paid  either  in  labour  or  in  money,  as  an  indem 
nity  to  the  proprietors  of  the  negress  ;  but  it  is  certain,  at  all 
events,  that  such  a  law,  aided  by  the  illicit,  but  already  well 
established  commerce  between  the  white  men  and  negresses, 
could  not  fail  of  giving  birth  to  ,a  race  of  mulattoes,  which 
would  produce  another  of  Quarterons,  and  so  on  until  the  colour 
should  be  totally  effaced. 

But  I  have  enlarged  sufficiently  on  this  subject,  which  has 
not  escaped  the  policy  and  philosophy  of  the  present  age.  I 
have  only  to  apologise  for  not  having  treated  it  with  declama 
tion  ;  but  it  has  always  been  my  opinion  that  eloquence  can  in 
fluence  only  the  resolutions  of  the  moment,  and  that  every 
thing  which  can  only  be  effected  by  time  alone,  must  be  the 
result  of  reason  ;  it  is  not  difficult,  however,  to  add  ten  or  a 
dozen  pages  to  these  reflections,  which  are  to  be  considered  as 
a  symphony  composed  only  of  the  principal  parts,  con  corni  ad 
libitum. 

We  have  seen  the  inconveniencies  of  slavery,  and  of  the  too 
extensive  possession  of  territory  in  Virginia ;  let  us  now  ex 
amine  the  inconsiderable  number  of  advantages  arising  from 
them.  The  Virginians  have  the  reputation,  and  with  reason, 
of  living  nobly  in  their  houses,  and  of  being  hospitable;  they 
give  strangers  not  only  a  willing,  but  a  liberal  reception.  This 
arises,  on  one  hand,  from  their  having  no  large  towns,  where 
they  may  assemble,  by  which  means  they  are  little  acquainted 
with  society,  except  from  the  visits  they  make ;  and,  on  the 
other,  their  lands  and  their  negroes  furnishing  them  with  every 
article  of  consumption,  and  the  necessary  service,  this  renown 
ed  hospitality  costs  them  very  little.  Their  houses  are  spa 
cious,  and  ornamented,  but  their  apartments  are  not  commo 
dious  ;  they  make  no  ceremony  of  putting  three  or  four  persons 
into  the  same  room  ;*  nor  do  these  make  any  objection  to  their 
being  thus  heaped  together  ;  for  being  in  general  ignorant  of 
the  comfort  of  reading  and  writing,  they  want  nothing  in  their 
whole  house  but  a  bed,  a  dining-room,  and  a  drawing-room  for 
company.  The  chief  magnificence  of  the  Virginians  consists 

*  Throughout  America,  in  private  houses,  as  well  as  in  the  inns, 
several  people  are  crowded  together  in  the  same  room  ;  and  in  the 
latter  it  very  commonly  happens,  that  after  you  have  been  some  time 
in  bed,  a  stranger  of  any  condition,  (for  there  is  little  distinction,)  comes 
into  the  room,  pulls  off  his  clothes,  and  places  himself,  without  cere 
mony,  between  your  sheets.* — Trans. 

*  This  was  probably  the  case  at  the  time  the  translator  wrote ;  but.  at  the  pre 
sent  day  there  is  no  country  in  which  travellers  can  be  mere  retired,  or  better 
accommodated  than  in  the  United  States. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  297 

in  furniture,  linen,  and  plate ;  in  which  they  resemble  our  an 
cestors,  who  had  neither  cabinets  nor  wardrobes  in  their  cas 
tles,  but  contented  themselves  with  a  well-stored  cellar,  and  a 
handsome  buffet.  If  they  sometimes  dissipate  their  fortunes, 
it  is  by  gaming,  hunting,  and  horse-races  ;*  but  the  latter  are 
of  some  utility,  inasmuch  as  they  encourage  the  breed  of  horses, 
which  are  really  very  handsome  in  Virginia.  We  see  that  the 
women  have  little  share  in  the  amusements  of  the  men ;  beau 
ty  here  serves  only  to  procure  them  husbands  ;  for  the  most 
wealthy  planters,  giving  but  a  small  fortune  with  their  daugh 
ters,  their  fate  is  usually  decided  by  their  figure.  The  conse 
quence  of  this  is,  that  they  are  often  pert  and  coquettish  be 
fore,  and  sorrowful  helpmates  after  marriage.  The  luxury  of 
being  served  by  slaves  still  farther  augments  their  natural  in 
dolence  ;  they  are  always  surrounded  by  a  great  number  of 
them,  for  their  own  service,  and  that  of  their  children,  whom 
they  content  themselves  with  suckling  only.  They,  as  well  as 
their  husbands,  pay  attention  to  them  when  young,  and  neglect 
them  when  grown  up.  We  may  say  in  general  of  the  Ame 
ricans,  as  of  the  English,  that  they  are  very  fond  of  their  in 
fants,  and  care  little  for  their  children.  It  would  be  a  delicate 
discussion,  perhaps,  to  inquire,  whether  this  be  really  a  natural 
sentiment,  and  whether  our  conduct,  which  is  very  different, 
be  not  the  result  of  self-love,  or  of  ambition  ;  but  we  may  safely 
affirm,  that  the  care  we  take  of  ours,  is  a  means  of  attaching 
ourselves  to  them,  and  of  ensuring  their  reciprocal  attach 
ment  ;  a  sentiment  the  nobleness  and  utility  of  which  cannot 
be  contested.f 

I  was  desirous  of  celebrating  the  virtues  peculiar  to  the  Vir 
ginians,  and  in  spite  of  my  wishes,  I  am  obliged  to  limit  my 
self  to  their  magnificence  and  hospitality.  It  is  not  in  my 
power  to  add  generosity ;  for  they  are  strongly  attached  to 
their  interests ;  and  their  great  riches,  joined  to  their  preten 
sions,  gives  more  deformity  to  this  vice.  I  ought,  in  the  first 

*  I  have  already  spoken  of  horse-races,  but  it  is  with  regret  I  add, 
that  the  general  spirit  of  gaming  is  prevalent  in  this  as  well  as  in  all  the 
United  States,  but  more  particularly  throughout  the  southern  ones, 
which  has  already  been  attended  with  suicide,  and  all  its  baneful  conse 
quences. —  Trans. 

t  I  confess  myself  at  a  loss  to  discover  from  what  source  of  obser 
vation  the  author  has  derived  the  fact  on  which  he  reasons  so  inge 
niously.  Perhaps  it  is  the  secret  spirit  of  national  prejudice  that  has 
led  me,  who  was  born  an  Englishman, to  reverse  the  remark,  as  applied 
to  the  two  countries  of  France  and  England  ;  but  I  leave  the  fact  and 
the  discussion  to  more  acute  observers. —  Trans. 

38 


298  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

instance,  to  have  treated  of  the  article  of  religion  ;   but  there- 
is  nothing  remarkable  respecting  it  in  this  country,  except  the 
facility  with  which  they  dispense  with  it.     The  established  re 
ligion,  previous  to  the  revolution,  was  that  of  the  Church  of 
England,  which  we  know  requires  Episcopacy,  and  that  every 
priest  must  be  ordained  by  a  bishop.     Before  the  war,  persons 
destined  to  the  church,  went  to  England,  to  study  and  to  be 
ordained.     It  is  impossible,  therefore,  in  the  present  circum 
stances,  to  supply  the  vacancies  of  the  pastors  who  drop  off. 
What  has  been  the  consequence  of  this  ?     That  the  churches 
have  remained  shut;  the  people  have  done  without  a  pastor, 
and  not  a  thought  has  been  employed  towards  any  settlement 
of  an  English  church,  independent  of  England.*     The  most 
complete  toleration  is  established  ;  but  the  other  communions 
have  made  no  acquisition  from  the  losses  of  the  former  ;  each 
sect  has  remained  in  its  original  situation  ;  and  this  sort  of  re 
ligious  interregnum,  has  been  productive  of  no  disorder.     The 
clergy  have  besides  received  a  severe  check  in  the  new  consti 
tution,  which  excludes  them  from  all  share  in  the  government, 
even  from  the  right  of  voting  at  elections.     It  is  true  that  the 
judges  and  lawyers  are  subjected  to  the  same  exclusion,  but 
that  is  from  another  motive ;  to  prevent  the  public  interest  from 
falling  into  competition  with  that  of  individuals.     The  legis 
lature  dreaded  the  reaction  of  these  interests ;   it  has  been 
thought  proper,  in  short,  to  form  a  sort  of  separate  body  in  the 
state,  under  the  name  of  the  Judicial  Body.     These  general 


*  During  the  war  there  was  a  great  scarcity  of  ministers  of  the  Epis 
copal  church,  on  account  of  the  numbers  of  that  body  who  attached 
themselves  to  England,  which  was  pretty  generally  the  case  ;  but  after 
the  peace,  many  young  Americans,  distinguished  for  the  gown,  finding 
a  repugnance  on  the  part  of  the  English  bishops,  got  ordained  by  the  non- 
juring  bishops  in  Scotland.  An  act  has  at  length  passed,  however,  to 
authorise  the  ordination  of  foreign  clergy  by  the  English  bishops,  which 
is  evidently  intended  to  promote  the  cause  of  the  hierarchy  in  the 
United  States.  I  shall  here  take  the  opportunity  of  mentioning,  that 
on  account  of  the  great  scarcity  of  bibles,  a  new  edition  was  published 
by  one  Aikin,  a  printer,  of  Philadelphia,  by  order  of  Congress,  under 
the  inspection  of  the  reverend  Mr.  White,  brother-in-law  to  Mr.  Mor 
ris,  and  the  other  chaplain  to  that  body  ;  but  such  are  ancient  preju 
dices,  that  very  few  of  the  zealous  followers  either  of  Luther  or  of  Cal 
vin,  could  be  brought  to  look  upon  it  as  the  genuine  old  book.  The 
wary  devotees,  dreaded,  no  doubt,  similar  errors  to  that-  for  which  the 
company  of  stationers  were  mulcted  in  the  time  of  king  Charles ;  the 
omission  of  the  negative  in  one  of  the  commandments,  by  printing 
44  Thou  shalt  do  murder."—  Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  299 

views  are  perhaps  salutary  in  themselves ;  but  they  are  attend 
ed  with  an  inconvenience  at  the  present  moment ;  for  the 
lawyers,  who  are  certainly  the  most  enlightened  part  of  the 
community,  are  removed  from  the  civil  councils,  and  the  admi 
nistration  is  entrusted  either  to  ignorant,  or  to  the  least  skilful 
men.  This  is  the  principal  objection  made  in  the  country  to 
the  present  form  of  government,  which  to  me  appears  excel 
lent  in  many  respects.  It  is  every  where  in  print,  and  easily 
to  be  procured ;  but  1  shall  endeavour  to  give  a  sketch  of  it  in 
a  few  words.  It  is  composed,  1st.  Of  the  Assembly  of  Depu 
ties,  named  by  the  cities  and  counties,  a  body  corresponding 
with  the  House  of  Commons.  2d.  Of  a  Senate,  the  members 
of  which  are  elected  by  several  united  counties,  in  a  greater 
or  less  number,  according  to  the  population  of  the  counties, 
which  answers  to  the  House  of  Peers.  3d.  Of  an  Executive 
Council,  of  which  the  governor  is  president,  and  the  members 
chosen  by  the  two  Chambers ;  a  substitute  for  the  executive 
power  of  the  king  in  England.* 

It  is  not  by  accident  that  I  have  postponed  the  consideration 
of  every  thing  respecting  the  progress  of  the  arts  and  sciences 
in  this  country,  until  the  conclusion  of  my  reflections  on  Vir 
ginia  ;  I  have  done  it  expressly  because  the  mind,  after  bestow 
ing  its  attention  on  the  variety  of  human  institutions,  reposes 
itself  with  pleasure  on  those  which  tend  to  the  perfection  of 
the  understanding,  and  the  progress  of  information ;  and  above 
all,  because  having  found  myself  under  the  necessity  of  speak 
ing  less  advantageously  of  this  state  than  I  wished  to  have  done, 
I  am  happy  to  conclude  with  an  article,  which  is  wholly  in 
their  commendation.  The  college  of  William  and  Mary,  whose 
founders  are  announced  by  the  very  name,  is  a  noble  establish 
ment  which  embellishes  Williamsburgh,  and  does  honour  to  Vir 
ginia.  The  beauty  of  the  edifice  is  surpassed  by  the  richness 
of  its  library,  and  that  still  farther  by  the  distinguished  merit  of 
several  of  the  professors,  such  as  the  Doctors  Madison,  Wythe, 
Bellini,  &c.  &c.,  who  may  be  regarded  as  living  books,  at  once 
affording  precepts  and  examples.  I  must  likewise  add,  that 
the  zeal  of  these  professors  has  been  crowned  with  the  most 
distinguished  success,  and  that  they  have  already  formed  many 
distinguished  characters,  ready  to  serve  their  country  in  the  va 
rious  departments  of  government.  Among  these,  it  is  with 


*  See  the  constitutions  of  the  different  states,  republished  in  England 
by  the  reverend  Mr.  Jackson,  and  the  excellent  translation  from  the 
original,  with  notes,  published  in  Paris  by  the  Duke  dc  la  Rochefou- 
cmilt — Trans. 


300  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

pleasure  I  mention  Mr.  Short,  with  whom  I  was  particularly 
connected.  After  doing  justice  to  the  exertions  of  the  Univer 
sity  of  Williamsburg,  for  such  is  the  college  of  William  and 
Mary  ;  if  it  be  necessary  for  its  farther  glory  to  cite  miracles, 
I  shall  only  observe  that  they  created  me  a  Doctor  of  Laws. 

Jfrittiamsburgh,  1st  of  May,  1782. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

PART  III. 

JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR 

. 
IN  NEW-HAMPSHIRE,  THE  STATE  OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 

AND  UPPER  PENNSYLVANIA. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA, 


CHAPTER  I. 

HARTFORD OXFORD — CONCORD ANDOVER HAVERHILL EXE* 

TER PORTSMOUTH NEWBURYPORT. 

THE  Baron  de  Viomenil  having  joined  the  army  in  the  be 
ginning  of  October,  I  ought  to  have  resigned  to  him  of  couise 
the  command  of  the  first  division,  so  that  I  had  now  no  neces 
sary  occupation,  unless  I  had  chosen  to  take  the  command  of 
the  second  division,  in  which  case  I  must  have  superseded  the 
Comte  de  Viomenil,  which  was  far  from  my  intention  ;  it  de 
pended  upon  myself,  therefore,  to  return  to  Philadelphia,  to 
wait  for  Mr.  de  Rochambeau,  who  was  expected  there,  after 
marching  his  troops  to  the  eastward  ;  but  my  departure  would 
have  too  plainly  discovered  the  intention  of  embarking  them, 
which  it  was  wished  to  keep  a  secret,  at  least  until  they  had 
reached  Hartford.     The  Comte  de  Viomenil,  on  the  other  hand, 
being  desirous  of  visiting  Saratoga,  the  Baron  de  Viomenil  re 
quested  me  to  retain  the  command  of  the  first,  whilst  he  took  that 
of  the  second  division.     I  consented,  there  fore,  to  sacrifice  ano 
ther  listless  and  fatiguing  fortnight,  and  marched  with  the  troops 
to  Hartford.*     I  submitted  also  not  to  return  to  the  southward, 


*  The  Translator  attended  the  French  army  on  their  march,  nearly 
the  whole  way,  from  Alexandria  to  the  North  river,  and  was  a  witness 
to  their  strict  discipline,  and  the  surprising  harmony  between  them 
and  the  people  of  the  country,  to  whom  they  gave  not  the  slightest 
reason  of  complaint.     He  insists  the  more  on  this  fact,  as  it  appears  to 
him  no  less  singular  than  interesting.     On  their  arrival  at  their  quarters 
on  the  march,  the  whole  country  came  to  see  them,  and  it  was  a  gene 
ral  scene  of  gaiety  and  good  humour.     When  they  encamped  at  Alex 
andria,  on  the  ground  formerly  occupied  by  Braddock,  the  most  ele 
gant  and  handsome  young  ladies  of  the  neighbourhood  danced  with  the 
officers  on  the  turf,  in  the  middle  of  the  camp,  to  the  sound  of  military 
music  ;  and,  (a  circumstance  which  will  appear  singular  to  European 
ideas,)  the  circle  was  in  a  great  measure  composed  of  soldiers,  who, 
from  the  heat  of  the  weather,  had  disengaged  themselves  from  their 
clothes,  retaining  not  an  article  of  dress  except  their  shirts,  which 


JJ04  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

before  M.  de  Rochambeau,  and  to  accompany  him  thither 
after  seeing  them  embarked.  I  determined,  however,  to  avail 
myself  of  these  circumstances  to  visit  the  upper'  part  of  the 
state  of  Massachusetts,  and  New-Hampshire,  which  I  had  not 
yet  seen.  With  this  view,  I  set  out  from  Hartford  the  4th  of 
November;  the  very  day  the  Comte  de  Rochambeau  marched 
with  the  first  division  to  encamp  at  Bolton.*  It  was  two  in  the 
afternoon  when  I  got  on  horseback ;  my  companions  were 
Messieurs  Lynch,  de  Montesquieu,  the  Baron  de  Taleyrand, 
and  Mr.  de  Vaudreuil.  We  followed  the  Bolton  route  to  a 
cross  road  about  three  miles  beyond  the  Meeting-house,  where 
there  is  a  stone  for  the  traveller's  direction.  We  here  took  to 
the  left,  to  reach  Mr.  Kendal's  tavern,  in  the  township  of  Co 
ventry,  seventeen  miles  from  Bolton,  and  four  from  the  cross 
roads.  In  a  quarter  of  an  hour  we  met  Mr.  Kendal,  who  was 
on  horseback,  carrying  letters  to  Mr.  de  Rochambeau,  from  the 
Marquis  de  VaudreuiL  our  Admiral ;  for  this  route,  which  is 
the  shortest  between  Bolton  and  Hartford,  was  preferred  for 
the  chain  of  expresses  between  the  fleet,  the  army,  and  Phila 
delphia.  Mr.  de  Montesquieu  returned  with  him  to  Bolton,  to 
know  whether  these  letters  contained  any  interesting  intelli 
gence.  As  we  travelled  slowly,  he  rejoined  us  in  half  an  hour, 
and  informed  us,  that  they  were  only  answers  to  those  he  had 
received  from  the  army,  with  the  state  of  the  troops  to  be  em 
barked.  Before  we  reached  Mr.  Kendal's,  we  passed  a  hut 
which  scarcely  merited  the  name  of  a  hoghouse,  and  was  only 
half  covered,  but  which  was  inhabited  by  a  man  who  accosted 
us  in  French  ;  he  was  a  labourer  from  Canada,  wKo  had  fre 
quently  changed  habitations,  and  had  seven  children.  We 
were  all  lodged  and  treated  at  Mr.  Kendal's,  who  is  above  the 
common  class,  and  is  more  occupied  in  commerce  than  in  farm 
ing  ;  he  sat  down  to  table  with  us,  and  we  were  pleased  with 
his  conversation. 


in  general  were  neither  extremely  long,  nor  in  the  best  condition  ; 
nor  did  this  occasion  the  least  embarrassment  to  the  ladies,  many  of 
whom  were  of  highly  polished  manners,  and  the  most  exquisite  delica 
cy  ;  or  to  their  friends  or  parents  ;  so  whimsical  and  arbitrary  are 
manners. —  Trans. 

*  The  French  army,  at  the  time  the  Marquis  speaks  of,  had  been 
for  some  time  encamped  at  Crompont,  near  Cortland's  manor,  a  few- 
miles  from  that  of  General  Washington's,  and  between  which  there 
was  a  daily  intercourse.  The  Translator  dined,  in  October,  1 782,  in 
General  Washington's  tent,  with  the  Marquis  de  Laval,  the  Baron  de 
Viomenil,  and  several  French  officers,  within  hearing  of  the  British 
guns,  which  were  at  that  period  happily  become  a  brutum  fulmen. — 
Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  ^Uo 

We  set  out  at  half  past  eight  in  the  morning  of  the  5th,  and 
travelled  through  a  very  agreeable  and  variegated  country,  pre 
senting  us  every  moment  with  the  view  of  handsome  habita 
tions.  The  face  of  the  country  is  unequal,  but  the  hills  are 
neither  high  nor  steep,  We  stopped  to  bait  our  horses  at  Mr. 
Clark's  tavern,  in  Ashford  township,  by  the  side  of  the  rivulet 
of  Mounthope,  on  this  side  of  a  river  marked  in  the  chart  by 
the  name  of  Monchoas,  and  of  a  branch  of  that  river  called 
Bigslack.  We  left  this  place  at  two  o'clock,  the  country  still 
continuing  to  be  pleasant.  I  was  particularly  struck  with  the 
position  of  Woodstock  meeting-house,  which  is  placed  on  an 
eminence,  commanding  a  very  gay  and  well-peopled  country. 
There  are  several  inns  around  this  meeting-house,  but  we  went 
three  miles  and  a  half  farther,  to  Mrs.  Chandler's.  Our  jour 
ney  this  day,  was  thirty-three  miles,  it  being  seventeen  from 
Clark's  to  Chandler's  tavern.  This  house  is  kept  by  a  widow, 
who  was  from  home,  and  Mr.  Lynch,  who  had  preceded  us, 
was  very  ill  received  by  an  old  servant  maid.  We  found  him 
in  great  distress,  because  she  would  make  no  preparation  of 
even  killing  a  few  chickens,  before  she  received  the  orders  of 
her  mistress.  Fortunately,  however,  the  latter  arrived  in  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  in  a  sort  of  single  horse  chaise,  and  we 
found  her  very  polite  and  obliging,  she  gave  us  a  tolerable 
supper,  and  we  were  neatly  lodged.* 

The  6th  we  set  out  at  ten  o'clock,  having  been  apprized  that 
on  reaching  Oxford,  it  would  be  necessary  to  inquire  the  road 
at  a  tavern  kept  by  Mr.  Lord,  at  twelve  miles  distance ;  but  the 
weather  being  bad  when  we  got  there,  we  determined  to  stop 
a  couple  of  hours  until  the  rain  ceased,  which  had  continued 
the  whole  morning.  We  had  two  roads  to  choose  ;  that  which 
goes  through  Shrewsbury  would  have  led  us  more  directly  to 
Portsmouth  ;  but  I  preferred  that  by  Grafton,  which  leads  to 
Concord  ;  that  celebrated  spot,  where  the  first  blood  was  shed, 
which  commenced  the  civil  war.  The  rain  abating  a  little,  we 
resumed  our  journey  at  two,  and  passed  through  Sal  ton,  a 
pretty  enough  place,  where  there  are  several  well-built  houses  ; 
but  the  rain  redoubling,  we"  were  obliged  to  halt  seven  miles 
farther  on,  at  Baron's  tavern,  where  we  were  well  received. 
We  dried  ourselves  by  a  good  fire,  in  a  very  handsome  apart 
ment,  adorned  with  good  prints,  and  handsome  mahogany  fur 
niture  ;  and  finding  the  useful  correspond  with  the  agreeable 
in  this  house,  we  reconciled  ourselves  to  the  bad  weather, 
which  had  forced  us  into  such  good  quarters. 

We  left  this  place  at  nine  the  next  morning,  the  road  lead- 


*  This  is  one  of  the  best  houses  I  met  with  in  America. — Transi 

39 


;31K>  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

ing  us  through  Grafton,  after  which  we  passed  Blackstone 
river,  and  arrived  at  Gale's  tavern,  fifteen  miles  from  Baron's, 
after  a  journey  through  a  very  pleasant  country.  1  remarked 
that  the  meadows,  of  which  there  are  a  great  number,  were  in 
general  intersected  and  watered  by  trenches  cut  on  purpose. 
Mr.  Gales  informed  me  that  these  meadows  were  worth  from 
ten  to  twenty  dollars  an  acre  ;  from  one  of  which,  in  his  pos 
session,  he  reaped  four  tons  of  hay  an  acre.  The  after-grass 
is  for  the  cattle,  to  produce  butter  and  cheese,  principally 
of  this  country.  The  price  of  meat  is  here  about  twopence- 
halfpenny  the  pound  of  fourteen  ounces.  After  baiting  our 
horses,  we  continued  our  journey  by  Marlborough,  where 
there  are  handsome  houses,  and  more  collected  than  in  the 
other  towns  or  townships.  We  at  length  entered  a  wood, 
which  conducted  us  to  the  river  of  Concord,  or  Billerika,  over 
which  we  passed  by  a  bridge  about  a  mile  from  the  Meeting 
house,  and  at  the  same  distance  from  Mr.  John's,  where  it  was 
near  nine  o'clock  before  we  arrived.  This  is  an  excellent  inn, 
kept  by  a  most  determined  whig,  who  acted  his  part  in  the  af 
fair  of  Concord.**.  Major  Pitcairn,  who  commanded  the  Eng 
lish  on  this  occasion,  had  lodged  frequently  at  his  house,  in 
travelling  through  the  country  in  disguise  ;  a  method  he  had 
sometimes  taken,  though  very  dangerous,  of  gaining  informa 
tion  to  communicate  to  General  Gage.  The  day  on  which  he 
headed  the  English  troops  to  Concord,  he  arrived  at  seven  in 
the  morning,  followed  by  a  company  of  grenadiers,  and  went 
immediately  to  Mr.  John's  tavern,  the  door  of  which  being 
shut,  he  knocked  several  times,  and  on  the  refusal  to  open  it, 
ordered  his  grenadiers  to  force  it.  Entering  it  himself  the 
first,  he  pushed  Mr.  John  with  such  violence  as  to  throw  him 
down,  and  afterwards  placed  a  guard  over  him,  frequently  in 
sisting  on  his  pointing  out  the  magazines  of  the  rebels.  The 


*  It  took  place  on  the  19th  of  April,  1775.  General  Gage  had 
detached  from  Boston  all  his  grenadiers,  light  infantry,  and  some  other 
troops,  amounting  together  to  900  m%n,  under  the  orders  of  Lieute 
nant-Colonel  Smith,  and  Major  Pitcairn.  At  Lexington  they  fell  in 
with  a  company  of  militia,  whom  they  found  under  arms.  The  Eng 
lish,  in  a  haughty  tone,  ordered  the  Americans  to  disperse,  which 
they  refused,  and  whilst  the  conversation  was  confined  to  words,  the 
English  fired  without  giving  notice,  and  at  that  discharge  killed  seven 
or  eight  Americans,  who  had  made  no  disposition  to  shelter  themselves 
from  the  fire  ;  they  were  compelled  to  give  way  to  numbers.  The 
English  advanced  to  Concord,  where  they  paid  dearly  for  their  violence, 
and  this  first  act  of  hostility,  for  which  they  were  alone  responsible, 
cost  them  near  300  men.  Major  Pitcairn  was  slain  at  the  battle  of 
Bunker's  Hill,  a  short  time  after  the  affair  of  Concord. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  307 

Americans  had  in  fact  collected  some  cannon  and  warlike 
stores  at  Concord,  but  having  received  timely  notice  in  the 
night,  they  had  removed  every  thing  into  the  woods,  except 
three  twenty-four  pounders,  which  remained  in  the  prison  yard, 
of  which  Mr.  John  was  the  keeper.  Major  Pitcairn  carrying 
his  violence  so  far  as  to  clap  a  pistol  to  his  throat,  Mr.  John, 
who  had  himself  been  in  a  passion,  grew  calm,  and  tried  to 
pacify  the  English  commander.  He  assured  him  that  there 
were  only  the  above  three  pieces  at  Concord,  and  that  he  should 
see  them,  if  he  would  follow  him.  He  conducted  him  to  the 
prison,  where  the  English  entered,  he  says,  in  a  rage  at  seeing 
the  Yankees  so  expert  in  mounting  cannon,  and  in  providing 
themselves  with  every  thing  necessary  for  the  service  of  artil 
lery,  such  as  sponges,  rammers,  &c.  Major  Pitcairn  made  his 
men  destroy  the  carriages,  and  break  the  trunnions  ;  then  or 
dered  the  prison  to  be  set  open,  where  he  found  two  prisoners, 
one  of  whom  being  a  tory,  he  released. 

The  first  moments  of  trouble  being  over,  Major  Pitcairn  re 
turned  to  Mr.  John's,  where  he  breakfasted,  and  paid  for  it. 
The  latter  resumed  his  station  of  innkeeper ;  numbers  of  the 
English  came  to  ask  for  rum,  which  he  measured  out  as  usual, 
and  made  them  pay  exactly.     In  the  mean  time,  the  Americans., 
who  had  passed  the  river  in  their  retreat,  began  to  rally,  and  to 
unite  with  those,  who,  apprised  by  the  alarum  bells,  and  vari-' 
ous  expresses,  were  coming  to  their  assistance.     The  disposi 
tion  Major  Pitcairn  had  to  make  for  his  security,  whilst  he  was 
employed  in  searching  for,  and  destroying  the  ammunition,  was 
by  no  means  difficult ;  it  was  only  necessary  to  place  strong 
guards  at  the  two  bridges  to  the  north  and  south,  which  he  had 
done.     Towards  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning,  the  firing  of  mus 
ketry  was  heard  at  the  north  bridge,  on  which  the  English  ral 
lied  at  tiie  place  appointed,  on  a  height,  in  a  church-yard  situa 
ted  to  the  right  of  the  road,  and  opposite  the  town-house. 
Three  hundred  Americans,  who  were  assembled  on  the  other 
side  of  the  river,  descended  from  the  heights  by  a  winding  road 
which  leads  obliquely  to  the  bridge,  but  which,  at  sixty  paces 
from  the  river,  turns  to  the  left,  and  comes  straight  upon  it. 
Until  they  had  reached  this  angle,  they  had  their  flank  cov§*StTf(  / 
by  a  small  stone  wall ;  but  when  they  came  to  this 
marched  up  boldly  to  the  bridge,  which  they  found 
employed  in  breaking  down.     The  latter  fired  the  first, Ilzt 
Americans  fell  upon  them,  and  they  easily  gave  way,!  which 
appears  rather  extraordinary.   Mr.  John  affirms  that  the  English 
at  first  imagined  the  Americans  had  no  ball,  but  that  they 
found  their  error,  on  seeing  several  of  their  soldiers  wou 
They  even  speak  here  of  an  officer,  who  informed  his  men  that 
they  had  nothing  to  fear,  for  that  the  Americans  fired  only  with 


;308  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

powder ;  but  a  drummer  who  was  near  him  receiving  at  the 
moment  a  musket  shot,  replied,  take  care  ofthatpouidcr,  Captain. 
The  English  had  three  men  killed  here,  and  several  wounded, 
two  of  them  were  officers.  The  Americans  now  passed  the 
bridge,  and  formed  immediately  on  a  small  eminence,  to  the 
left  of  the  road,  as  they  were  situated,  and  at  short  cannon  shot 
from  that  on  which  the  English  were  collected.  There  they 
remained  some  time  watching  each  other;  but  the  sight  of  some 
houses  on  fire  irritated  the  Americans,  and  determined  them  to 
march  towards  the  English,  who  then  retreated  by  the  Lexing 
ton  road,  which  forming  an  elbow,  the  Americans,  who  knew 
the  country,  took  the  string  of  the  bow,  and  got  up  with  them 
before  they  advanced  a  mile.  It  was  here  the  retreating  fight 
began,  of  which  every  body  has  seen  the  accounts,  and  which 
continued  to  Lexington,  where  the  English  were  joined  by  the 
reinforcement  under  the  command  of  Earl  Percy. 

It  was  on  the  morning  of  the  8th  that  I  examined  the  field 
of  battle  at  Concord,  wi  ich  took  me  up  till  half  past  ten,  when 
I  resumed  my  journey.  Ten  miles  from  Concord  is  Billerika, 
a  pretty  considerable  township  :  the  country  here  was  less  fer 
tile,  and  the  road  rather  stony.  We  halted  at  South-Andover. 
five  miles  beyond  Billerika.  at  a  bad  inn.  kept  by  one  Forster  ; 
his  wife  had  some  beautiful  children,  but  she  appeared  disor 
dered,  and  I  thought  her  rather  drunk.  She  showed  me,  with 
much  importance,  a  book  her  eldest  daughter  was  reading,  and 
I  found  it,  to  my  no  small  surprise,  to  be  a  book  of  prayers  in 
Italian.  This  daughter,  who  was  about  seventeen,  repeated 
also  a  prayer  in  the  Indian  language,  of  which  she  understood 
not  a  word,  having  learnt  it  accidentally  from  an  Indian  ser 
vant  ;  but  her  mother  thought  all  this  admirable.  We  con 
tented  ourselves  with  baiting  our  horses  in  this  wretched  ale 
house,  and  set  out  at  half  past  one,  travelled  through  South  and 
North- Andover.  North  Parish,  or  North  Andover,  is  a  charm 
ing  place,  where  there  are  a  great  number  of  very  handsome 
houses,  a  quantity  of  meadows,  and  fine  cattle.  Almost  on 
quitting  this  long  township,  you  enter  Bradford,  where  night 
overtook  us,  and  we  travelled  two  or  three  miles  in  the  dark 
before  we  reached  Haverhill  ferry.  It  was  half  past  six  before 
we  had  crossed  it,  and  got  to  Mr.  Harward's  inn,  where  we  had 
a  good  supper,  and  good  lodgings.  At  Haverhill.  the  Merri- 
maek  is  only  fit  for  vessels  of  thirty  tons,  but  much  larger  ones 
are  built  here,  which  are  floated  down  empty  to  Newbury. 
Three  miles  above  Haverhill  are  falls,  and  higher  up  the  river 
is  only  navigable  for  boats.  The  trade  of  this  town  formerly 
consisted  in  timber  for  ship-building,  which  has  been  suspend 
ed  since  the  war.  It  is  pretty  considerable,  and  tolerably  well 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  309 

built ;  and  its  situation,  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre  on  the 
left  shore  of  the  Merrimaek,  gives  it  many  agreeable  aspects. 

We  left  this  place  the  9th,  at  nine  in  the  morning,  our  road 
lying  through  Plastow,  a  pretty  considerable  township  ;  after 
which  we  met  with  woods,  and  a  wild  and  horritf  country.  We 
saw  a  great  number  of  pines  and  epicias ;  there  are  also  seve 
ral  large  lakes,  some  of  which  are  traced  upon  the  chart. 
Since  we  quitted  the  confines  of  Connecticut,  I  have  in  general 
observed  a  great  number  of  these  ponds,  which  contributed  to 
increase  the  resemblance  between  this  country  and  that  of  the 
Bourbonnois,  and  the  Nivernois,  in  France.  Twelve  miles  from 
Haverhill  is  Kingston,  a  township  inferior  to  those  we  had  ob 
served  upon  the  route  ;  and  at  the  end  of  eighteen  miles  is 
Exeter,  at  present  the  capital  of  New-Hampshire,  that  is  to  say, 
the  place  where  the  President  or  Governor  resides,  and  the 
members  of  the  state  assemble.  It  is  rather  a  handsome  town, 
and  is  a  sort  of  port ;  for  vessels  of  seventy  tons  can  come  up, 
and  others  as  large  as  three  or  four  hundred  tons  are  built  here, 
which  are  floated  down  Exeter  river  into  the  bay  of  that  name, 
and  thence  to  Piscataqua,  We  stopped  at  a  very  handsome 
inn  kept  by  Mr.  Ruspert,  which  we  quitted  at  half  past  two ; 
and  though  we  rode  very  fast,  night  was  coming  on  when  we 
reached  Portsmouth.  The  road  from  Exeter  is  very  hilly.  We 
passed  through  Greenland,  a  very  populous  township,  composed 
of  well  built  houses.  Cattle  here  are  abundant,  but  not  so 
handsome  as  in  Connecticut,  and  the  state  of  Massachusetts. 
They  are  dispersed  over  fine  meadows,  and  it  is  a  beautiful 
sight  to  see  them  collected  near  their  hovels  in  the  evening. 
This  country  presents,  in  every  respect,  the  picture  of  abun 
dance  and  of  happiness.  The  road  from  Greenland  to  Ports 
mouth  is  wide  and  beautiful,  interspersed  with  habitations,  so 
that  these  two  townships  almost  touch.  I  alighted  at  Mr. 
Brewster's,  where  I  was  well  lodged ;  he  seemed  to  me  a  re 
spectable  man,  and  much  attached  to  his  country. 

In  the  morning  of  the  10th  I  went  to  pay  a  visit  to  Mr.  Al 
bert  de  Rioms,  captain  of  the  Pluton,*  who  had  .a  house  on 
shore,  where  he  resided  for  his  health ;  he  invited  me  to  din 
ner,  which  he  advised  me  to  accept,  as  the  Comte  de  Vaudreuil 
was  in  great  confusion  on  board  his  ship,  the  mizen  mast  of 
which  had  been  struck  by  lightning  five  days  before,  and  which 


*  The  Marquis  de  Vaudreuil's  squadron  was  then  at  Boston,  and 
some  of  his  ships  were  refitting,  and  taking  in  masts  at  Portsmouth. 
M.  de  Albert  de  Rioms  is  the  officer  who  commanded  the  evolutions 
of  the  French  squadron,  on  the  late  visit  of  the  king  to  Cherbourff.—- 
Tram. 


;jlO  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

penetrated  to  his  first  battery ;  but  he  offered  me  his  boat  to 
carry  me  on  board  the  Auguste.  In  returning  for  my  cloak,  I 
happened  to  pass  by  the  meeting,  precisely  at  the  time  of  ser 
vice,  and  had  the  curiosity  to  enter,  where  I  remained  above 
half  an  hour,**that  I  might  not  interrupt  the  preacher,  and  to 
show  my  respect  for  the  assembly ;  the  audience  were  not  nu 
merous  on  account  of  the  severe  cold,  but  I  saw  some  hand 
some  women,  elegantly  dressed.  Mr.  Barkminster,  a  young 
minister,  spoke  with  a  great  deal  of  grace,  and  reasonably 
enough  for  a  preacher.  I  could  not  help  admiring  the  address 
with  which  he  introduced  politics  into  his  sermon,  by  compa 
ring  the  Christians  redeemed  by  the  blood  of  Jesus  Christ,  but 
still  compelled  to  fight  against  the  flesh  and  sin,  to  the  thirteen 
United  States,  who,  notwithstanding  they  have  acquired  liberty 
and  independence,  are  under  the  necessity  of  employing  all 
their  force  to  combat  a  formidable  power,  and  to  preserve  those 
invaluable  treasures.  It  was  near  twelve  when  I  embarked  in 
Mr.  Albert's  boat,  and  saw  on  the  left,  near  the  little  Island  of 
Rising  Castle,  the  America,*  (the  ship  given  by  Congress  to 
the  king  of  France,)  which  had  been  just  launched,  and  ap 
peared  to  me  a  fine  ship.  I  left  on  the  right  the  Isle  of  Wash- 

*  The  America  is  the  vessel  given  by  Congress  to  the  king  of 
France,  to  replace  the  Magnifique,  lost  on  Lovel's-Island  in  Boston 
harbour,  when  the  French  fleet  entered  that  port  some  months  after 
the  defeat  of  the  Cornte  de  Grasse.  This  ship  was  designed  for  the 
well  known  Paul  Jones,  who  by  his  command  of  the  little  squadron 
on.  the  coasts  of  England,  had  acquired  the  title  of  commodore,  and 
was  sighing  after  that  of  admiral  of  America,  which  Congress,  no  bad 
appreciators  of  merit,  thought  proper  to  refuse  him.  The  Translator 
met  him  at  a  public  table  at  Boston,  on  his  return  from  Portsmouth, 
where  he  told  the  company,  that  notwithstanding  the  reason  he  had  to 
be  discontented,  he  had  given  his  advice  in  the  construction  and  launch 
ing  of  the  vessel,  in  which  latter  operation,  however,  the  ship  struck 
fast  on  the  slip,  but  without  any  material  damage.  This  accident  is 
not  intended  by  any  means  as  an  imputation  on  Mr.  Jones,  who  certain 
ly  was  fortunate  enough,  at  one  time,  to  render  considerable  service  to 
America.  He  is  said  to  have  acquired  a  considerable  property  by  the 
prizes  he  made  in  that  cruise,  but  his  officers  and  crews  complain  (the 
Translator  does  not  say  with  what  justice)  that  there  has  never  been 
any  distribution  of  the  prize  money,  and  that  numbers  of  his  maimed 
and  mutilated  sailors  were  reduced  to  beg  for  a  subsistence  in  France, 
and  elsewhere,  to  the  discredit  of  America.  Mr.  Jones  read  some 
pretty  enough  verses  in  his  own  honour  to  the  same  company,  at 
Brackett's  tavern  in  Boston,  extracted  from  a  London  newspaper,  and 
said  to  be  written  by  Lady  Craven.  The  America  is  now  at  Brest, 
and  is  esteemed  one  of  the  handsomest  ships  in  the  French  navy.— 
Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  311 

ington,  on  which  stands  a  fort  of  that  name.  It  is  built  in  the 
form  of  a  star,  the  parapets  of  which  are  supported  by  stakes, 
and  was  not  finished.  Then  leaving  Newcastle  on  the  right, 
and  Jittery  on  the  left,  we  arrived  at  the  anchoring  ground, 
within  the  first  pass.  I  found  Mr.  Vaudreuil  on  board,  who  pre 
sented  me  to  the  officers  of  his  ship,  and  afterwards  to  those 
of  the  detachment  of  the  army,  among  whom  were  three  offi 
cers  of  my  former  regiment  of  Guienne,  at  present  called 
Viennois.  He  then  took  me  to  see  the  ravages  made  by  the 
lightning,  of  which  M.  de  Eire,  who  then  commanded  the  ship, 
M.  de  Vaudreuil  having  slept  on  shore,  gave  me  the  following 
account:  at  half  past  two  in  the  morning,  in  the  midst  of  a 
very  violent  rain,  a  dreadful  explosion  was  heard  suddenly,  and 
the  sentinel,  who  was  in  the  gallery,  came  in  a  panic  into  the 
council  chamber,  where  he  met  with  M.  Bir  ,  who  had  leaped 
to  the  foot  of  his  bed,  and  they  were  both  struck  with  a  strong 
sulphureous  smell.  The  bell  was  immediately  rung,  and  the 
ship  examined,  when  it  was  found  that  the  mizen  mast  was  cut 
short  in  two,  four  feet  from  the  forecastle?;  that  it  had  been 
lifted  in  the  air,  and  fallen  perpendicularly  on  the  quarter 
deck,  through  which  it  had  penetrated,  as  well  as  the  second 
battery.  Two  sailors  were  crushed  by  its  fall,  two  others,  who 
never  could  be  found,  had  doubtless  been  thrown  into  the  sea 
by  the  commotion,  and  several  were  wounded. 

At  one  o'clock  we  returned  on  shore  to  dine  with  M.  Albert 
de  Rioms,  and  our  fellow  guests  were  M.  de  Bire,  who  acted 
as  flag  captain,  though  but  a  lieutenant;  M.  de  Mortegues. 
who  formerly  commanded  the  Magnifique  (lost  at  the  same 
period  on  Lovel's-Island  in  Boston  harbour)  and  was  destined 
to  the  command  of  the  America ;  M.  de  Siber,  lieutenant  en 
pied  of  the  Pluton  ;  M.  d'Hizeures,  captain  of  the  regiment  of 
Viennois,  &c. ;  after  dinner  we  went  to  drink  tea  with  Mr.  Lang- 
don.  He  is  a  handsome  man,  and  of  a  noble  carriage ;  he 
has  been  a  member  of  Congress,  and  is  now  one  of  the  first  peo 
ple  of  the  country  ;  his  house  is  elegant  and  well  furnished,  and 
the  apartments  admirably  well  wainscotted ;  he  has  a  good  manu 
script  chart  of  the  harbour  of  Portsmouth.  Mrs.  Langdon,  his 
wife,  is  young,  fair,  and  tolerably  handsome,  but  I  conversed  less 
with  her  than  with  her  husband,  in  whose  favour  I  was  preju 
diced,  from  knowing  that  he  had  displayed  great  courage  and 
patriotism  at  the  time  of  Burgoyne's  expedition.  For  repair 
ing  to  the  council  chamber,  of  which  he  was  a  member,  and 
perceiving  that  they  were  about  to  discuss  some  affairs  of  little 
consequence,  he  addressed  them  as  follows  :  "  Gentlemen,  you 
may  talk  as  long  as  you  please,  but  I  know  that  the  enemy  is 
on  our  frontiers,  and  that  I  am  going  to  take  my  pistols,  and 
mount  my  horse,  to  combat  with  my  fellow-citizens;"  the 


312  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

greatest  part  of  the  members  of  the  council  and  assembly  fol 
lowed  him,  and  joined  General  Gates  at  Saratoga.  As  he  was 
marching  day  and  night,  reposing  himself  only  in  the  woods,  a 
negro  servant  who  attended  him  says  to  him,  "  Master,  you  are 
hurting  yourself,  but  no  matter,  you  are  going  to  fight  for 
liberty ;  I  should  sutler  also  patiently  if  I  had  liberty  to  de 
fend."  ''Don't  let  that  stop  you,"  replied  Mr.  Langdon, 
"  from  this  moment  you  are  free."  The  negro  followed  him, 
behaved  with  courage,  and  has  never  quitted  him.  On  leaving 
Mr.  Langdon's,  we  went  to  pay  a  visit  to  Colonel  Wentworth, 
who  is  respected  in  this  country,  not  only  from  his  being  of 
the  same  family  with  Lord  Rockingham,  but  from  his  general 
acknowledged  character  for  probity  and  talents.  He  conduct 
ed  the  naval  department  at  Portsmouth,  and  our  officers  are 
never  weary  in  his  commendation.  From  Mr.  Wentworth's, 
M.  de  Vaudreuil  and  M.  de  Rioms  took  me  to  Mrs.  Whipple's, 
a  widow  lady,  who  is,  I  believe,  sister-in-law  to  General  Whip- 
pie  ;  she  is  neither  young  nor  handsome,  but  appeared  to  me 
to  have  a  good  understanding,  and  gaiety.  She  is  educating 
one  of  her  nieces,  only  fourteen  years  old,  who  is  already 
charming.  Mrs.  Whipple's  house,  as  well  as  that  of  Mr. 
Wentworth's,  and  all  those  I  saw  at  Portsmouth,  are  very  hand 
some  and  well  furnished. 

I  proposed,  on  the  morning  of  the  llth,  to  make  a  tour 
among  the  islands  in  the  harbour,  but  some  snow  having 
fallen,  and  the  weather  being  by  no  means  inviting,  I  content 
ed  myself  with  paying  visits  to  some  officers  of  the  navy,  and 
among  others  to  the  Comte  de  Vaudreuil,  who  had  slept  on 
shore  the  preceding  night  ;  after  which  we  again  met  at  din 
ner  at  Mr.  Albert's,  a  point  of  union  which  was  always  agreea 
ble.  M.  d'Hizeures  had  ordered  the  music  of  the  regiment  of 
Viennois  to  attend,  and  I  found  with  pleasure,  that  the  taste 
for  music,  which  I  had  inspired  into  that  corps,  still  subsisted, 
and  that  the  ancient  musicians  had  been  judiciously  replaced.* 
After  dinner,  we  again  drank  tea  at  Mr.  Langdon's,  and  then 
paid  a  visit  to  Dr.  Brackett,  an  esteemed  physician  of  the 
country,  and  afterwards  to  Mr.  Thompson.  The  latter  was 
born  in  England  ;  he  is  a  good  seamen,  and  an  excellent  ship 
builder,  and  is  besides  a  sensible  man,  greatly  attached  to  his 
new  country,  which  it  is  only  fifteen  years  since  he  adopted. 
His  wife  is  an  American,  and  pleases  by  her  countenance,  but 
still  more  by  her  amiable  and  polite  behaviour.  We  finished 


*  The  Marquis  de  Chastellux,  among  his  various  accomplishments, 
is  distinguished  not  only  in  the  character  of  an  amateur,  but  for  his 
scientific  knowledge  of  music. —  Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  313 

the  evening  at  Mr.  Wentworth's,  where  the  Conlte  de  Vau- 
dreuil  lodged  ;  he  gave  us  a  very  handsome  supper,  without 
ceremony,  during  which  the  conversation  was  gay  and  agreea 
ble. 

The  12th  I  set  out,  after  taking  leave  of  M.  de  Vaudreuil, 
whom  I  met  as  he  was  coming  to  call  on  me,  and  it  was  cer 
tainly  with  the  greatest  sincerity  that  I  testified  to  him  my 
sense  of  the  polite  manner  in  which  I  had  been  received  by 
him,  and  by  the  officers  under  his  command. 

The  following  are  the  ideas  which  I  had  an  opportunity  of 
acquiring  relative  to  the  town  of  Portsmouth.  It  was  in  a  pret 
ty  flourishing  state  before  the  war,  and  carried  on  the  trade  of 
ship  timber,  and  salt  fish.  It  is  easy  to  conceive  that  this 
commerce  must  have  greatly  suffered  since  the  commence 
ment  of  the  troubles,  but  notwithstanding,  Portsmouth  is,  per 
haps,  of  all  the  American  towns,  that  which  will  gain  the  most 
by  the  present  war.  There  is  every  appearance  of  its  beco 
ming  to  ./Vew-England,  what  the  other  Portsmouth  is  to  the 
Old  ;  that  is  to  say,  that  this  place  will  be  made  choice  of  as 
the  depot  of  the  continental  marine.  The  access  to  the  har 
bour  is  easy,  the  road  immense,  and  there  are  seven  fathoms 
water  as  far  up  as  two  miles  above  the  town ;  add  to  this,  that 
notwithstanding  its  northern  situation,  the  harbour  of  Ports 
mouth  is  never  frozen,  an  advantage  arising  from  the  rapidity 
of  the  current.  This  circumstance,  joined  to  its  proximity  to 
the  timber  for  ship-building,  especially  for  masts,  which  can 
only  be  balanced  by  the  harbour  of  Rhode-Island,  will  doubt 
less  determine  the  choice  of  Congress.  But  if  a  naval  esta 
blishment  be  thought  necessary  at  Portsmouth,  the  quays,  the 
rope-walks,  the  arsenals,  <tc.  must  be  placed  in  the  islands, 
and  not  on  the  continent ;  for  it  would  be  easy  for  an  enemy's 
army  to  land  there,  and  take  possession  of  the  town,  the  local 
situation  of  which  would  require  too  considerable  a  develope- 
ment  of  fortification  to  shelter  it  from  insult.  I  imagine,  how 
ever,  that  a  good  entrenched  camp  might  be  formed  between 
the  two  creeks,  but  I  am  only  able  to  judge  of  that  from  a  slight 
observation,  and  from  charts. 

It  has  happened  in  New-Hampshire,  as  in  the  state  of  Mas 
sachusetts,  that  the  losses  of  commerce  have  turned  to  the  ad 
vantage  of  agriculture  ;  the  capitals  of  the  rich,  and  the  indus 
try  of  the  people  having  flowed  back  from  the  coasts  towards  the 
interior  of  the  country,  which  has  profited  rapidly  by  the  reflux. 
It  is  certain  that  this  country  has  a  very  flourishing  appearance, 
and  that  new  houses  are  building,  and  new  farms  are  settling 
every  day. 

New-Hampshire  hitherto  has  no  permanent  constitution,  and 
its  present  government  is  no  more  than  a  simple  convention  : 

40 


314  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

it  much  resembles  that  of  Pennsylvania,  for  it  consists  of  one 
legislative  body,  composed  of  the  representatives  of  the  people, 
and  the  executive  council;  which  has  for  its  chief,  a  President, 
instead  of  Governor.  But  during  my  stay  at  Portsmouth,  I 
learnt  that  there  was  an  assembly  at  Exeter,  for  the  purpose  of 
establishing  a  constitution,  the  principal  articles  of  which  were 
already  agreed  on.  This  constitution  will  be  founded  on  the 
same  principles  as  those  of  New-York  and  Massachusetts. 
There  will  be,  as  in  the  former,  an  executive  power  vested  in 
the  hands  of  the  Governor,  the  Chancellor  and  the  Chief  Jus 
tices  ;  the  latter  of  whom  will  be  perpetual,  at  least  quam  dm 
se  benegesserint,  during  good  behaviour,  but  the  members  of  the 
senate  will  be  annually  changed,  and  the  requisite  qualifica 
tion  of  a  senator,  very  inconsiderable,  which  I  think  is  a  great 
inconvenience.*  Mr.  Langdon  observes,  and  perhaps  with 
reason  that  the  country  is  as  yet  too  young,  and  the  materials 
wanting  to  give  this  senate  all  the  weight  and  consistence  it 
ought  to  have,  as  in  Maryland,  where  the  senators  are  elected 
for  three  years,  and  must  possess  at  least  five  hundred  pounds. 

When  I  was  at  Portsmouth  the  necessaries  of  life  were  very 
dear,  owing  to  the  great  drought  of  the  preceding  summer. 
Com  costs  two  dollars  a  bushel,  (of  sixty  pounds  weight)  oats 
almost  as  much,  and  Indian  corn  was  extremely  scarce.  I  shall 
hardly  be  believed  when  I  say,  that  I  paid  eight  livres  ten  sols 
(about  seven  shillings  and  three  pence)  a  day  for  each  horse. 
Butcher's  meat  only  was  cheap,  selling  at  two-pence  halfpenny 
a  pound.  That  part  of  New-Hampshire  bordering  on  the 
coast  is  not  fertile  ;  there  are  good  lands  at  forty  or  fifty  miles 
distance  from  the  sea,  but  the  expense  of  carriage  greatly  aug 
ments  the  price  of  articles,  when  sold  in  the  more  inhabited 
parts.  As  for  the  value  of  landed  property  it  is  dear  enough 
for  so  new  a  country.  Mr.  Ruspert,  my  landlord,  paid  seventy 
pounds*  currency  per  annum,  (at  eighteen  livres,  or  fifteen 
shillings  the  pound)  for  his  inn.  Lands  sell  at  from  ten  to  six 
teen  dollars  an  acre.  The  country  produces  little  fruit,  and 
the  cider  is  indifferent. 

The  road  from  Portsmouth  to  Newbury  passes  through  a 
barren  country.  Hampton  is  the  only  township  you  meet 
with,  and  there  are  not  such  handsome  houses  there  as  at 
Greenland.  As  we  had  only  twenty  miles  to  go,  I  was  unwil 
ling  to  stop,  and  desired  the  Vicomte  de  Vaudreuil  only,  to  go 
on  a  little  before  us  to  dinner.  It  was  two  o'clock  when  we 
reached  Merrimack  ferry,  and  from  the  shore  we  saw  the  open- 


*  A  new  form  of  government  has  been  established  since  the  peace. 
Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  315 

ing  of  the  harbour,  the  channel  of  which  passes  near  the  north 
ern  extremity  of  Plumb-Island,  on  which  is  a  small  fort,  with 
a  few  cannon  and  mortars.  Its  situation  appears  to  me  well 
chosen,  at  least  as  far  as  I  was  capable  of  judging  from  a  dis 
tance.  At  the  entrance  of  the  harbour  is  a  bar,  on  which 
there  are  only  eighteen  feet  water  in  the  highest  tides,  so  that 
although  it  be  a  very  commercial  place,  it  has  always  been  re 
spected  by  the  English.  Several  frigates  have  been  built  here  ; 
among  others,  the  Charlestown,  and  the  Alliance.*  The  har- 


*  The  privateers  which  so  greatly  molested  the  British  trade  were 
chiefly  from  the  ports  of  Newbury,  Beverley,  and  Salem,  in  which  pla 
ces  large  fortunes  were  made  by  this  means  :  and  such  must  ever  be 
the  case  in  any  future  war,  from  the  peculiarity  of  their  position, 
whence  they  may  run  out  at  any  season  of  the  year,  and  commit  de 
predations  on  any  of  the  maritime  powers  to  which  America  is  hostile, 
with  little  fear  of  retaliation.  Newfoundland,  Nova-Scotia,  the  Gulfs 
of  St.  Lawrence,  and  of  Florida,  and  the  whole  trade  of  the  West-In 
dia  Archipelago,  are  in  a  manner  at  their  doors.  However  Great 
Britain  may  affect  to  despise  America,  she  is  perhaps,  even  in  her  pre 
sent  infant  state,  from  various  circumstances,  the  most  formidable 
enemy  she  can  have  to  cope  with,  in  case  of  a  rupture  ;  for,  as  nations 
ought  collectively  to  be  dispassionate,  though  individuals  are  not,  it 
behooves  her  to  reflect,  where,  and  in  what  manner  she  can  return  the 
blow.  Mr.  Jefferson,  the  present  Minister  of  the  United  States  at 
Versailles,  among  other  excellent  observations  on  this  subject  has  the 
following,  which  I  extract  with  pleasure  from  his  Notes  on  Virginia, 
a  most  interesting  work,  with  which  I  have  just  privately  been  favour 
ed.  "  The  sea  is  the  field  on  which  we  should  meet  an  European  ene 
my,  on  that  element  it  is  necessary  we  should  possess  some  power. 
To  aim  at  such  a  navy  as  the  greater  nations  of  Europe  possess  would 
be  a  foolish  and  wicked  waste  of  the  energies  of  our  countrymen.  It 
would  be  to  pull  on  our  heads  that  load  of  military  expense  which 
makes  the  European  labourer  go  supperless  to  bed,  and  moistens  his 
bread  with  the  sweat  of  his  brow.  It  will  be  enough  if  we  enable  our 
selves  to  prevent  insult  from  those  nations  of  Europe  which  are  weak 
on  the  sea,  because  circumstances  exist  which  render  even  the  stronger 
ones  weak  as  to  us.  Providence  has  placed  their  richest  and  most  de 
fenceless  possessions  at  our  door;  has  obliged  their  most  precious 
commerce  to  pass  as  it  were  in  review  before  us.  To  protect  this,  or 
to  assail  us,  a  small  part  only  of  their  naval  force  will  ever  be  risked 
across  the  Atlantic.  The  dangers  to  which  the  elements  expose  them 
here  are  too  well  known,  and  the  greater  danger  to  which  they  would 
be  exposed  at  home,  were  any  general  calamity  to  involve  their  whole 
fleet.  They  can  attack  us  by  detachment  only;  and  it  will  suffice  to 
make  ourselves  equal  to  what  they  may  detach.  Even  a  smaller  force 
than  they  may  detach  will  be  rendered  equal  or  superior  by  the  quick 
ness  with  which  any  check  may  be  repaired  with  us,  while  losses  with 
them  will  be  irreparable  till  too  late.  A  small  naval  force  then  is  ne- 


^1G  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

bour  is  extensive,  and  well  sheltered.     After  passing  the  ferry 
in  little  flat  boats,  which  held  only  five  horses  each,  we  went^to 
Mr.  Davenport's  inn,  where  we  found  a  good  dinner  ready.    I 
had  letters  from  Mr.  Wentworth  to  Mr.  John  Tracy,  the  most 
considerable  merchant  in  the  place  ;  but,  before  I  had  time  to 
send  them,  he  had  heard  of  my  arrival,  and,  as  I  was  rising 
from  table,  entered  the  room,  and  very  politely  invited  me  to 
pass  the  evening  with  him.     He  was  accompanied  by  a  Colo 
nel,  whose  name  is  too  difficult  for  me  to  write,  having  never 
been  able  to  catch  the  manner  of  pronouncing  it ;  but  it  was 
something  like  Wigsleps.     This  Colonel  remained  with  me  till 
Mr.  Tracy  finished  his  business,  when  he  came  with  two  hand 
some  carriages,  well  equipped,  and  conducted  me  and  my  aid- 
de-camp  to  his  country-house.     This  house  stands  a  mile  from 
the  town,  in  a  very  beautiful  situation  ;  but  of  this  I  could  my 
self  form  no  judgment,  as  it  was  already  night.     I  went  how 
ever,  by  moonlight,  to  see  the  garden,  which  is  composed  of 
different  terraces.     There  is  likewise  a  hot-house  and  a  num 
ber  of  young  trees.     The  house  is  very  handsome  and  well- 
finished,  and  every  thing  breathes  that  air  of  magnificence  ac 
companied  with  simplicity,  which  is  only  to  be  found  among 
merchants.     The  evening  passed  rapidly  by  the  aid  of  agreea 
ble  conversation  and  a  few  glasses  of  punch.     The  ladies  we 
found  assembled  were  Mrs.  Tracy,  her  two  sisters,  and  their 
cousin,  Miss  Lee.     Mrs.  Tracy  has  an  agreeable  and  a  sensi 
ble  countenance,  and  her  manners  correspond  with  her  appear 
ance.     At  ten  o'clock  an  excellent  supper  was  served,  we 
drank  good  wine,  Miss  Lee  sung,  and  prevailed  on  Messieurs 
de  Vaudreuil  and  Taleyrand  to  sing  also  :  towards  midnight 


cessary  for  us,  and  a  small  one  is  really  needful.  What  this  should  be  I 
will  not  undertake  to  say.  I  will  only  say  it  should  by  no  means  be 
so  great  as  we  are  able  to  make  it.  Supposing  the  million  of  dollars, 
or  £300,000  sterling,  which  Virginia  would  annually  spare  without 
distress,  be  applied  to  the  creating  a  navy.  A  single  year's  contribu 
tion  would  build,  equip,  man,  and  send  to  sea  a  force  which  should 
carry  300  guns.  The  rest  of  the  confederacy  exerting  themselves  in 
the  same  proportion  would  equip  1500  guns  more.  So  that  one  year's 
contribution  would  set  up  a  navy  of  1 800  guns.  The  British  ships  of 
the  line  average  76  guns  ;  their  frigates  38 — 1800  guns  then  would 
form  a  fleet  of  30  ships,  18  of  which  might  be  of  the  line,  and  ^fri 
gates.  Allowing  eight  men,  the  British  average,  for  every  gun,  their 
annual  expense,  including  subsistence,  clothing,  pay,  and  ordinary  re 
pairs,  would  be  about  1280  dollars  for  every  gun,  or  2,304,000  dol 
lars  for  the  whole.  I  state  this  only  as  one  year's  possible  exertion, 
without  deciding  whether  more  or  less  than  a  year's  exertion  should 
be  thus  applied." — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  317 

the  ladies  withdrew,  but  we  continued  drinking  Madeira  and 
Xery.     Mr.  Tracy,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  country,  of 
fered  us  pipes,  which  were  accepted  by  M.  de  Taleyrand,  and 
M.  de  Montesquieu,  the  consequence  of  which  was  that  they 
became  intoxicated,  and  were  led  home,  where  they  were  hap 
py  to  get  to  bed.     As  to  myself,  I  remained  perfectly  cool, 
and  continued  to  converse  on  trade  and  politics  with  Mr.  Tracy, 
who  interested  me  greatly  with  an  account  of  all  the  vicissi 
tudes  of  his  fortune  since  the  beginning  of  the  war.     At  the 
end  of  1777,  his  brother  and  he  had  lost  one  and  forty  ships, 
and  with  regard  to  himself,  he  had  not  a  ray  of  hope  but  in  a 
single  letter-of-marque  of  eight  guns,  of  which  he  had  recei 
ved  no  news.     As  he  was  walking  one  day  with  his  brother, 
and  they  were  reasoning  together  on  the  means  of  subsisting 
their  families  (for  they  were  both  married)  they  perceived  a 
sail  making  for  the  harbour.     He  immediately  interrupted  the 
conversation,  saying  to  his  brother,  (fr  Perhaps  it  is  a  prize  for 
me."     The  latter  laughed  at  him,  but  he  immediately  took  a 
boat,  went  to  meet  the  ship,  and  found  that  it  was  in  fact  a 
prize  belonging  to  him,  worth  five  and  twenty  thousand  pounds 
sterling.     Since  that  period,  he  has  been  almost  always  fortu 
nate,  and  he  is  at  present  thought  to  be  worth  near  £120,000 
sterling      He  has  my  warmest  wishes  for  his  prosperity;  for  he 
is  a  sensible,  polite  man,  and  a  good  patriot.     He  has  always 
assisted  his  country  in  time  of  need,  and  in  1781  lent  five  thou 
sand  pounds  to  the  state  of  Massachusetts  for  the  clothing  of 
their  troops,  and  that  only  on  the  receipt  of  the  Treasurer,  yet 
his  quota  of  taxes  in  that  very  year  amounted  to  six  thousand 
pounds.     One  can  hardly  conceive  how  a  simple  individual 
can  be  burthened  so  far ;  but  it  must  be  understood,  that  be 
sides  the  duty  of  five  per  cent,  on  importation,  required  by 
Congress,  the  state  imposed  another  tax  of  the  same  value  on 
the  sale  of  every  article,  in  the  nature  of  an  excise,  on  rum, 
sugar,  coffee,  &c.     These  taxes  are  levied  with  great  rigour: 
a  merchant  who  receives  a  vessel  is  obliged  to  declare  the  car 
go,  and  nothing  can  go  out  of  the  ship  or  warehouse  without 
paying  the  duty.     The  consequence  of  this  restraint  is,  that  the 
merchants,  in  order  to  obtain  free  use  of  their  property,  are 
obliged  themselves  to  turn  retailers,  and  pay  the  whole  duty, 
the  value  of  which  they  must  recover  from  those  to  whom  they 
sell.     Without  this,  they  could  neither  draw  from  their  stores 
what  is  necessary  for  their  own  consumption,  nor  the  small  ar 
ticles  which  they  are  in  the  way  of  selling,  at  the  first  hand ; 
they  are  consequently  obliged  to  take  out  licenses,  like  tavern- 
keepers  and  retailers,  thus  supporting  the  whole  weight  of  the 
impost  both  as  merchants  and  as  shop-keepers.     Patriot  as  he 
is,  Mr.  Tracy  cannot  help  blaming  the  rigour  with  which  com- 


318  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

merce  is  treated ;  a  rigour  arising  from  the  preponderance  of 
the  farmers  or  landholders,  and  also  from  the  necessity  which 
the  government  is  under  of  finding  money  where  it  can  ;  for 
the  farmers  easily  evade  the  taxes;  certificates,  receipts,  al 
leged  grievances,  reduce  them  almost  to  nothing.  Thus  has 
a  state,  yet  in  its  infancy,  all  the  infirmities  of  age,  and  taxa 
tion  attaches  itself  to  the  very  source  of  wealth,  at  the  risk  of 
drying  up  its  channels.  [This  observation  appears  rather  for 
ced,  as  applied  generally,  the  Marquis  admitting  that  these  im 
positions  were  the  result  of  a  critical  and  immediate  want. 
Trans.] 


CHAPTER  II. 

NEWBURYPORT— • IPSWICH BEVERLY SALEM — CAMBRIDGE BUN- 


1  LEFT  Newburyport  the  13th  at  ten  in  the  morning,  and 
often  stopped  before  I  lost  sight  of  this  pretty  little  town,  for  I 
had  great  pleasure  in  enjoying  the  different  aspects  it  presents. 
It  is  in  general  well  built,  and  is  daily  increasing  in  new  build 
ings.  The  warehouses  of  the  merchants,  which  are  near  their 
own  houses,  serve  by  way  of  ornament,  and  in  point  of  archi 
tecture  resemble  not  a  little  our  large  green-houses.  You  can 
not  see  the  ocean  from  the  road  to  Ipswich;  and  the  country 
to  the  eastward  is  dry  and  rocky.  Toward  the  west  it  is  more 
fertile ;  but  in  general  the  land  throughout  the  country,  bor 
dering  on  the  sea,  is  not  fruitful.  At  the  end  of  twelve  miles 
is  Ipswich,  where  we  stopped  to  bait  our  horses,  and  were  sur 
prised  to  find  a  town  between  Newbury  and  Salem,  at  least  as 
populous  as  these  two  sea-ports,  though  indeed  much  less  opu 
lent.  But  mounting  an  eminence  near  the  tavern,  I  saw  that 
Ipswich  was  also  a  sea-port ;  I  was  told,  however,  that  the  en 
trance  was  difficult,  and  that  at  some  times  of  the  year  there 
were  not  five  feet  upon  the  bar.  From  this  eminence  you 
see  Cape  Anne,  and  the  south  side  of  Plumb-Island,  as  well  as 
a  part  of  the  north.  The  bearing  of  the  coast,  which  trends 
to  the  eastward,  seems  to  me  badly  laid  down  in  the  charts ; 
this  coast  trends  more  southerly  above  Ipswich,  and  forms  a 
sort  of  bay.  Ipswich  at  present  has  but  little  trade,  and  its  fish 
ery  is  also  on  the  decline ;  but  the  ground  in  the  neighbourhood 
is  pretty  good,  and  abounds  in  pasturage,  so  that  the  seamen 
having  turned  farmers,  they  have  been  in  no  want  of  subsist 
ence,*  which  may  account  likewise  for  the  very  considerable 


*  The  activity  and  enterprise  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  eastern  states 
are  unremitted.  The  seaman  when  on  shore  immediately  applies  him 
self  to  some  handicraft  occupation,  or  to  husbandry,  and  is  always  rea 
dy  at  a  moment's  warning  to  accompany  the  captain  his  neighbour, 
who  is  likewise  frequently  a  mechanic,  to  the  fisheries.  West-India 
voyages  are  the  most  perilous  expeditions,  so  that  it  is  no  uncommon 
circumstance  to  find  in  a  crew  of  excellent  New-England  mariners, 
not  a  single  seaman,  so  to  speak,  by  profession.  Hence  arise  that  zeal. 


320  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

population  of  this  place,  where  you  meet  with  upwards  of  two 
hundred  houses,  in  about  two  miles  square.  Before  you  arrive 
at  Salem,  is  a  handsome  rising  town  called  Beverly.  This  is 
a  new  establishment  produced  by  commerce,  on  the  left  shore 
of  the  creek  which  bathes  the  town  of  Salem  on  the  north  side. 
One  cannot  but  be  astonished  to  see  beautiful  houses,  large 
warehouses,  &c.  springing  up  in  great  numbers,  at  so  small  a 
distance  from  a  commercial  town,  the  prosperity  of  which  is 
not  diminished  by  it.*  The  rain  overtook  us  just  as  we  were 
passing  near  the  lake  which  is  three  miles  from  Beverly.  We 
crossed  the  creek  in  two  flat-bottomed  boats,  containing  each 


sobriety,  industry,  economy  and  attachment  for  which  they  are  so  just 
ly  celebrated,  and  which  cannot  fail  of  giving  them,  sooner  or  later,  a 
decided  superiority  at  least  in  the  seas  of  the  new  world.  This  edu 
cation  and  these  manners  are  the  operative  causes  of  that  wonderful 
spirit  of  enterprise  and  perseverance,  so  admirably  painted  by  Mr.  Ed 
mund  Burke,  in  his  wise,  eloquent,  and  immortal  speech  of  March  22, 
1775,  on  his  motion  for  conciliation  with  the  colonies.  "  Pray,  sir," 
says  he,  "  what  in  the  world  is  equal  to  it  ?  Pass  by  the  other  parts 
(of  America,)  and  look  at  the  manner  in  which  the  people  of  New- 
England  have  of  late  carried  on  the  whale  fishery.  Whilst  we  follow 
them  among  the  tumbling  mountains  of  ice,  and  behold  them  penetra 
ting  into  the  deepest  recesses  of  Hudson's  Bay,  and  Davis'  Straits, 
whilst  we  are  looking  for  them  beneath  the  arctic  circle,  we  hear  that 
they  have  pierced  into  the  opposite  region  of  polar  cold,  that  they  are 
at  the  antipodes,  and  engaged  under  the  frozen  serpent  of  the  south. 
Falkland's-Island  which  seemed  too  remote  and  romantic  an  object  for  the 
grasp  of  national  ambition,  is  but  a  stage  and  resting  place  in  the  pro 
gress  of  their  victorious  industry.  Nor  is  the  equinoctial  heat  more 
discouraging  to  them  than  the  accumulated  winter  of  both  the  poles. 
We  know  that  whilst  some  of  them  draw  the  line  and  strike  the  har 
poon  on  the  coast  of  Africa,  others  run  the  longitude,  and  pursue  their 
gigantic  game  along  the  coast  of  Brazil.  No  sea  but  what  is  vexed 
by  their  fisheries.  No  climate  that  is  not  witness  to  their  toils.  Nei 
ther  the  perseverance  of  Holland,  nor  the  activity  of  France,  nor  the 
dexterous  and  firm  sagacity  of  English  enterprise,  ever  carried  this 
most  perilous  mode  of  hardy  industry  to  the  extent  to  which  it  has  been 
pushed  by  this  recent  people  ;  a  people  who  are  still,  as  it  were,  but 
in  the  gristle,  and  not  yet  hardened  into  the  bone  of  manhood." — Trans. 

*  The  town  of  Beverley  began  to  flourish  greatly  towards  the  con 
clusion  of  the  war  by  the  extraordinary  spirit  of  enterprise,  and  great 
success  of  the  Messieurs  Gobbets,  gentlemen  of  strong  understandings 
and  the  most  liberal  minds,  well  adapted  to  the  most  enlarged  commer 
cial  undertakings,  and  the  business  of  government.  Two  of  their 
privateers  had  the  good  fortune  to  capture  in  the  European  seas,  a  few 
weeks  previous  to  the  peace,  several  West-Indiamen  to  the  value  of  at 
least  £100,000  sterling.— Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  321 

six  horses.  It  is  near  a  mile  wide  ;  and  in  crossing,  we  could 
very  plainly  distinguish  the  opening  of  the  harbour,  and  a  cas 
tle  situated  on  the  extremity  of  the  neck,  which  defends  the 
entrance.  This  neck  is  a  tongue  of  land  running  to  the  east 
ward,  and  connected  with  Salem  only  by  a  very  narrow  sort  of 
causeway.  On  the  other  side  of  the  neck,  and  of  the  cause 
way,  is  the  creek  that  forms  the  true  port  of  Salem,  which  has 
no  other  defence  than  the  extreme  difficulty  of  entering  with 
out  a  good  practical  pilot.  The  view  of  these  two  ports,  which 
are  confounded  together  to  the  sight ;  that  of  the  town  of  Sa 
lem,  which  is  embraced  by  two  creeks,  or  rather  arms  of  the 
sea,  the  ships  and  edifices  which  appear  intermingled,  form  a 
very  beautiful  picture,  which  I  regret  not  having  seen  at  a  bet 
ter  season  of  the  year.  As  I  had  no  letters  for  any  inhabitant 
of  Salem,  I  alighted  at  Goodhue's  tavern,  now  kept  by  Mr. 
Robinson,  which  I  found  very  good,  and  was  soon  served  with 
an  excellent  supper.  In  this  inn  was  a  sort  of  club  of  mer 
chants,  two  or  three  of  whom  came  to  visit  me  ;  and  among 
others,  Mr.  De  la  Fille,  a  merchant  of  Bordeaux,  who  had  been 
established  five  years  at  Boston  ;  he  appeared  a  sensible  man, 
and  pretty  well  informed  respecting  the  commerce  of  the  coun 
try,  the  language  of  which  he  speaks  well.* 

The  14th  in  the  morning,  Mr.  De  la  Fille  called  upon  me  to 
conduct  me  to  see  the  port  and  some  of  the  warehouses.  I 
found  the  harbour  commodious  for  commerce,  as  vessels  may 
unload  and  take  in  their  lading  at  the  quays ;  there  were  about 
twenty  in  the  port,  several  of  which  were  ready  to  sail,  and 
others  which  had  just  arrived.  In  general,  this  place  has  a 
rich  and  animated  appearance.  At  my  return  to  the  inn  I 
found  several  merchants  who  came  to  testify  their  regret  at  not 
having  been  apprised  more  early  of  my  arrival,  and  at  not  hav 
ing  it  in  their  power  to  do  the  honours  of  the  town.  At  eleven, 
I  got  on  horseback,  and  taking  the  road  to  Boston,  was  surpri 
sed  to  see  the  town,  or  suburb  of  Salem,  extending  near  a  mile 
in  length  to  the  westward.  On  the  whole,  it  is  difficult  to  conceive 
the  state  of  increase,  and  the  prosperity  of  this  country,  after  so 
long  and  so  calamitous  a  war.  The  road  from  Salem  to  Bos 
ton  passes  through  an  arid,  and  rocky  country,  always  within 
three  or  four  miles  of  the  sea,  without  having  a  sight  of  it ;  at 
length,  however,  after  passing  Lynn,f  and  Lynn  creek,  you  get 


*  The  translator,  who  was  residing  at  this  time  at  Salem,  regretted 
exceedingly  his  accidental  absence  on  the  day  the  Marquis  spent  there, 
which  he  learnt,  to  his  great  mortification,  on  his  return  to  the  inn 
which  the  Marquis  had  just  quitted. —  Trans. 

t  Lynn  is  a  very  populous  little  place,  and  is  celebrated  for  the  rna- 

41 


3^  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

a  view  of  it,  and  find  yourself  in  a  bay  formed  by  Nahant's- 
Point,  and  Pulling's-Point.  I  got  upon  the  rocks  to  the  right 
of  the  roads,  in  order  to  embrace  tnore  of  the  country,  and 
form  a  better  judgment.  I  could  distinguish  not  only  the  whole 
bay  but  several  of  the  islands  in  Boston  road,  and  part  of  the 
peninsula  of  Nantucket,  near  which  I  discovered  the  masts  of 
our  ships  of  war.  From  hence  to  Winisimmet  ferry,  we  travel 
over  disagreeable  roads,  sometimes  at  the  foot  of  rocks,  at 
others  across  salt  marshes.  It  is  just  eighteen  miles  from  Sa 
lem  to  the  ferry,  where  we  embarked  in  a  large  scow,  contain 
ing  twenty  horses ;  and  the  wind,  which  was  rather  contrary, 
becoming  more  so,  we  made  seven  tacks,  and  were  near  an 
hour  in  passing.  The  landing  is  to  the  northward  of  the  port, 
and  to  the  east  of  Charlestown  ferry.  Although  I  knew  that 
Mr.  Dumas  had  prepared  me  a  lodging,  I  found  it  more  conve 
nient  to  alight  at  Mr.  Brackett's,  the  Cromwell's  head,  where  I 
dined.*  After  dinner  I  went  to  the  lodgings  prepared  for  me 
at  Mr.  Colson's,  a  glover  in  the  main  street.  As  I  was  dressing 
to  wait  on  the  Marquis  de  Vaudreuil,  he  called  upon  me,  and 
after  permitting  me  to  finish  the  business  of  the  toilet,  we  went 
together  to  Dr.  Cooper's,  and  thence  to  the  association  ball, 
where  I  was  received  by  my  old  acquaintance  Mr.  Brick,  who 
was  one  of  the  managers.  Here  I  remained  till  ten  o'clock ; 
the  Marquis  de  Vaudreuil  opened  the  ball  with  Mrs.  Temple. f 


nufacture  of  women's  shoes,  which  they  send  to  all  parts  of  the  con 
tinent.     The  town  is  almost  wholly  inhabited  by  shoemakers. — Trans. 

*  This  is  a  most  excellent  inn,  and  Mr.  Brackett  a  shrewd  and  ac 
tive  friend  to  the  true  principles  of  the  revolution.  His  sign  of  Crom- 
welPs  head  gave  great  umbrage  to  the  British  under  General  Gage, 
who  would  not  suffer  it  to  remain.  This  circumstance  alone  could 
have  induced  Mr.  Brackett  to  restore  it  after  they  were  expelled  the 
town,  as  reflection  might  have  convinced  him,  that  in  the  actual  posi 
tion  of  America,  there  was  much  more  to  be  apprehended  from  a 
Cromwell  than  a  Charles. — Trans. 

t  The  reader  will  observe  that  the  author  in  speaking  of  this  lady, 
of  Mr.  Bowdoin,  her  father,  and  the  rest  of  the  family,  disdains  to 
mention  her  husband,  Mr.  John  Temple,  so  celebrated  for  political 
duplicity  on  both  sides  of  the  water.  This  gentleman  was,  however, 
at  this  very  time  at  Boston,  abusing  Gov.  Hancock,  Dr.  Cooper,  and 
the  most  tried  friends  to  America,  in  the  public  prints,  and  endeavour 
ing  to  sow  dissensions  among  the  people.  Every  newspaper  into 
which  he  could  obtain  admission,  was  stuffed  with  disgusting  enco 
miums  on  Mr.  John  Temple,  whom  Mr.  John  Temple  himself  held 
forth  as  the  paragon  of  American  patriotism,  as  the  most  active  and 
inveterate  enemy  to  England,  and  a  victim  to  British  vengeance,  which 
he  endeavoured  to  prove  by  instances  taken  from  the  English  prints,  of 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  323 

M.  de  PAiguille  the  elder,  and  Mr.  Trueguet  danced  also,  each 
of  them  a  minuet,  and  did  honour  to  the  French  nation,  by 
their  noble  and  easy  manner ;  but  I  am  sorry  to  say,  that  the 
contrast  was  considerable  between  them  and  the  Americans, 
who  are  in  general  very  awkward,  particularly  in  the  minuet. 
The  prettiest  women  dancers  were  Mrs.  Jarvis,  her  sister,  Miss 
Betsy  Broom,  and  Mrs.  Whitrnore.  The  ladies  were  all  well 
dressed,  but  with  less  elegance  and  refinement  than  at  Phila 
delphia.*  The  assembly  room  is  superb,  in  a  good  style  of 
architecture,  well  decorated,  and  well  lighted  ;  it  is  admirably 
well  calculated  for  the  coup  d'oeil,  and  there  is  good  order, 
and  every  necessary  refreshment.  This  assembly  is  much  su 
perior  to  that  of  the  City  tavern  at  Philadelphia. 

The  15th,  in  the  morning,  M.  de  Vaudreuil,  and  M.  le  Tom- 
bes,  the  French  Consul,  called  on  me  the  moment  I  was  going 
out  to  visit  them.  After  some  conversation,  we  went  first  to 
wait  on  Governor  Hancock,f  who  was  ill  of  the  gout,  and  un- 


his  treachery  to  England,  and  by  boasting  of  his  dexterity  in  outwitting 
the  ministry  of  that  country.  Yet  no  sooner  did  peace  take  place, 
than  to  the  astonishment  of  every  sensible  and  honest  man  in  Europe 
and  America,  this  very  person,  equally  detested  by,  and  obnoxious  to, 
both  countries,  was  despatched  as  the  sole  representative  of  England 
to  that  country,  of  which  he  is  also  a  sworn  citizen,  and  whose  father- 
in-law  is  the  present  Governor  of  Massachusetts.  It  is  impossible  to 
add  to  the  folly  and  infamy  of  such  a  nomination.  The  choice  of  an 
ambassador  to  Congress  would  have  fallen  with  more  propriety  on  Ar 
nold.  His  was  a  bold  and  single  act  of  treachery  ;  the  whole  politi 
cal  life  of  Mr.  Temple  has  been  one  continued  violation  of  good  faith. 
For  farther  particulars  of  this  gentleman's  conduct,  see  the  Political 
Magazine  for  1780,  p.  691,  and  740  ;  but  volumes  might  be  written  on 
this  subject.  The  translator  is  sorry  to  add,  that  whilst  he  lives  and 
flourishes,  the  virtuous,  the  amiable  Dr.  Cooper  is  in  his  grave,  and 
Mr.  Hancock,  that  illustrious  citizen,  he  fears,  not  far  removed  from  it. 
—  Trans. 

*  The  translator  was  present  at  this  assembly  at  Boston,  which  was 
truly  elegant,  where  he  saw  Mr.  J.  Temple  standing  behind  the  crowd, 
eyeing,  like  Milton's  devil,  the  perfect  harmony  and  good  humour  sub 
sisting  between  the  French  officers  and  the  inhabitants,  not  as  a  friend 
to  Britain,  for  that  would  have  been  pardonable,  but  to  discord,  for  he 
was  at  this  very  instant  boasting  of  his  inveteracy  to  Britain. —  Trans . 

t  I  had  seen  Mr.  Hancock  eighteen  months  before,  on  my  former 
journey  to  Boston,  and  had  a  long  conversation  with  him,  in  which  I 
easily  discovered  that  energy  of  character  which  had  enabled  him  to 
act  so  distinguished  a  part  in  the  present  revolution.  He  formerly 
possessed  a  large  fortune,  which  he  has  almost  entirely  sacrificed  in 
the  defence  of  his  country,  and  which  contributed  not  a  little  to  main- 


324  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

able  to  receive  us ;  thence  we  went  to  Mr.  Bowdoin's,  Mr. 
Brick's,  and  Mr.  Cushing's,  the  deputy  Governor.  I  dined 
with  the  Marquis  de  Vaudreuil,  and  after  dinner  drank  tea  at 
Mr.  Bowdoin's  who  engaged  us  to  supper,  only  allowing  M.  de 
Vaudreuil  and  myself  half  an  hour  to  pay  a  visit  to  Mrs.  Gush 
ing.  The  evening  was  spent  agreeably,  in  a  company  of 
about  twenty  persons,  among  whom  was  Mrs.  Whitmore,  and 
young  Mrs.  Bowdoin,  who  was  a  new  acquaintance  for  me,  not 
having  seen  her  at  Boston  when  I  was  there  the  preceding  year. 
She  has  a  mild  and  agreeable  countenance,  and  a  character 
corresponding  with  her  appearance. 

The  next  morning  I  went  with  the  Marquis  de  Vaudreuil  to 
pay  some  other  visits,  and  dined  with  Mr.  Brick,  where  were 
upwards  of  thirty  persons,  and  among  others,  Mrs.  Tudor,  Mrs. 
Morton,  Mrs.  Swan,  &c.  The  two  former  understood  French ; 
Mrs.  Tudor,  in  particular,  knows  it  perfectly,  and  speaks  it  to 
lerably  well.  I  was  very  intimate  with  her  during  my  stay  at 
Boston,  and  found  her  possessed,  not  only  of  understanding, 
but  of  grace  and  delicacy,  in  her  mind  and  manners.  After 
dinner,  tea  was  served,  which  being  over,  Mr.  Brick  in  some 
sort  insisted,  but  very  politely,  on  our  staying  to  supper.  This 
supper  was  on  table  exactly  four  hours  after  we  rose  from  din 
ner  ;  it  may  be  imagined,  therefore,  that  we  did  not  eat  much, 
but  the  Americans  paid  some  little  compliments  to  it ;  for,  in 
general,  they  eat  less  than  we  do,  at  their  repasts,  but  as  often 
as  you  choose,  which  is  in  my  opinion  a  very  bad  method.  Their 
aliments  behave  with  their  stomachs,  as  we  do  in  France  on 
paying  visits  ;  they  never  depart,  until  they  see  others  enter. 
In  other  respects  we  passed  the  day  very  agreeably.  Mr.  Brick 
is  an  amiable  man,  and  does  the  honours  of  his  table  extremely 
well  ;  and  there  reigned  in  this  society  a  ton  of  ease  and  free 
dom,  which  is  pretty  general  at  Boston,  and  cannot  fail  of  being 
pleasing  to  the  French. 

The  day  following  I  waited  at  home  for  M.  de  Vaudreuil, 
who  called  on  me  to  conduct  me  to  dinner  on  board  the  Sou- 
verain.  This  ship,  as  well  as  the  Hercule,  was  at  anchor  about 
a  mile  from  the  port.  The  officer  who  commanded  her,  gave 
us  a  great  and  excellent  dinner,  the  honours  of  which  he  did, 
both  to  the  French  and  Americans,  with  that  noble  and  bene 
volent  spirit  which  characterizes  him.  Among  the  latter,  was 
a  young  man  of  eighteen,  of  the  name  of  Barrel,  who  had  been 
two  months  on  board,  that  by  living  continually  with  the  French, 

tain  its  credit.  Though  yet  a  young  man,  for  he  is  not  yet  fifty,  he  is 
unfortunately  very  subject  to  the  gout,  and  is  sometimes,  for  whole 
months,  unable  to  see  company. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  325 

lie  might   accustom  himself  to  speak  their  language,  which 
cannot  fail  of  being  one  day  useful  to  him.*     For  this  is  far 
from  being  a  common  qualification  in  America,  nor  can  it  be 
conceived  to  what  a  degree  it.  has  hitherto  been  neglected  ; 
the  importance  of  it  however  begins  to  be  felt,  nor  can  it  be 
too  much  encouraged  for  the  benefit  of  both  nations.     It  is 
said,  and  certainly  with  great  truth,  that   not  only  individuals, 
but  even  nations,  only  quarrel  for  want  of  a  proper  understand 
ing  ;  but  it  may  be  affirmed  in  a  more  direct  and  positive  sense, 
that   mankind  in  general  are   not  disposed  to  love  those  to 
whom  they  cannot  easily  communicate  their  ideas  and  impress 
ions.     Not  only  does  their  vivacity  suffer,  and  their  impatience 
become  inflamed,  but  self-love  is  offended  as  often  as  they 
speak  without  being  understood  ;  instead  of  which,  a  man  ex 
periences  a  real  satisfaction  in  enjoying  an  advantage  not  pos 
sessed  by  others,  and  of  which  he  is  authorised  constantly  to 
avail  himself.     I  have  remarked  during  my  residence  in  Ameri 
ca,  that  those  among  our  officers,  who  spoke   English,  were 
much  more  disposed  to  like  the  inhabitants  of  the  country,  than 
the  others  who  were  not  able   to  .familiarize  themselves  with 
the  language.     Such  is  in  fact  the  procedure  of  the  human 
mind,  to  impute  to  others  the  contrarieties  we  ourselves  expe 
rience,  and  such,  possibly,  is  the  true  origin  of  that  disposition 
we  call  humeur,  which  must  be  considered  as  a  discontent  of 
which  we  cannot  complain  ;  an  interior  dissatisfaction  which 
torments  us,  without  giving  us  the  right  of  attributing  the  cause 
of  it  to  any  other  person.     Humeur  or  peevishness,  seems  to  be 
to  anger,  what  melancholy  is  to  grief;  both  one  and  the  other 
are  of  longer  duration,  because  they  have  no  fixed  object,  and 
do  not  carry,  so  to  speak,  their  compliment  with  them  ;  so  that 
never  attaining  that  excess,  that  maximum  of  sensibility,  which 
brings  on  that  repose,  or  change  of  situation  which  nature  wills, 
they  can  neither  be  completely  gratified,  nor  exhale  themselves 
entirely.     As  for  the   Americans,  they  testified  more  surprise 
than  peevishness,  at  meeting  with  a  foreigner  who  did  not  un 
derstand  English.     But  if  they  are  indebted  for  this  opinion  to 
a  prejudice  of  education,  a  sort  of  national  pride,  that  pride 
suffered  not  a  little  from  the  reflection,  which  frequently  oc 
curred,  of  the  language  of  the  country  being  that  of  their  op 
pressors.     Accordingly  they  avoided  these  expressions,  "  you 
speak  English ;  you  understand   English   well ;"  and  I  have 


*  This  is  a  very  amiable  young  gentleman,  and  his  father  a  great  con 
noisseur  in  prints  and  paintings.  He  was  happy  to  have  the  opportu 
nity  of  purchasing  a  complete  collection  of  Hogarth's  prints  from  the 
Translator,  then  on  his  return  to  Europe. — Trans, 


326  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

often  heard  them  say — "  you  speak  American  well  ;  the  Ame 
rican  is  not  difficult  to  learn."  Nay,  they  have  carried  it  even 
so  far,  as  seriously  to  propose  introducing  a  new  language  ; 
and  some  persons  were  desirous,  for  the  convenience  of  the 
public,  that  the  Hebrew  should  be  substituted  for  the  English. 
The  proposal  was,  that  it  should  be  taught  in  the  schools,  and 
made  use  of  in  all  public  acts.  We  may  imagine  that  this  pro 
ject  went  no  farther  ;  but  we  may  conclude  from  the  mere 
suggestion,  that  the  Americans  could  not  express  in  a  more  en 
ergetic  manner,  their  aversion  for  the  English. 

This  digression  has  led  me  far  from  the  Souverain,  where  I 
would  return,  however,  with  pleasure,  were  it  not  to  take  leave 
of  the  Commander  de  Glanderes,  and  to  experience  a  thick  fog, 
which  compelled  me  to  renounce  an  excursion  I  proposed  ma 
king  in  the  harbour,  and  to  get  back  to  Boston  as  fast  as  possi 
ble,  without  visiting  Castle-Island,  and  Fort  William.  On 
landing,  the  Marquis  de  Vaudreuil  and  I  went  to  drink  tea  at 
Mr.  Cushing's,  who  is  Lieutenant-Governor  of  the  State  ; 
whence  we  went  to  Mr.  Tudor's,  and  spent  a  very  agreeable 
evening.  M.  de  Parois,  nephew  of  M.  de  Vaudreuil,  had 
brought  his  harp,  which  he  accompanied  with  great  taste  and 
skill  ;  this  was  the  first  time,  however,  for  three  years,  that  I 
had  heard  truly  vocal  and  national  music  :  It  Was  the  first  time 
that  my  ear  had  been  struck  with  those  airs,  and  those  words 
which  reminded  me  of  the  pleasures,  and  agreeable  sentiments, 
which  employed  the  best  era  of  my  life.  I  thought  myself  in 
heaven,  or  which  is  the  same  thing,  I  thought  myself  returned 
to  my  country,  and  once  more  surrounded  by  the  objects  of  my 
affection. 

On  the  17th,  I  breakfasted  with   several  artillery  officers, 
who  had  arrived  with  their  troop ;  that  corps  having  greatly 
preceded  the  rest  of  the  infantry,  in  order  to  have  time  to  em 
bark  their  cannon,  and  other  stores.     At  eleven  I  mounted  my 
horse,  and  went  to  Cambridge,  to  pay  a  visit  to  Mr.  Willard, 
the  President  of  that  University.     My  route  though  short,  it  be 
ing  scarce  two  leagues  from  Boston  to  Cambridge,  required 
me  to  travel  both  by  sea  and  land,  and  to  pass  through  a  field 
of  battle  and  an  intrenched  camp.     It  has  been  long  said  that 
the  route  to  Parnassus  is  difficult,  but  the  obstacles  we  have 
there  to  encounter,  are  rarely  of  the  same  nature  with  those 
which  were  in  my  way.     A  view  of  the  chart  of  the  road,  and 
town  of  Boston,  will  explain  this  better  than  the  most  elaborate 
description.     The  reader  will  see  that  this  town,  one   of  the 
most  ancient  in  America,  and  which  contains  from  twenty  to 
five  and  twenty  thousand  inhabitants,  is  built  upon  a  peninsula 
in  the  bottom  of  a  large  bay,  the  entrance  of  which  is  difficult, 
and  in  which  lie  dispersed  a  number  of  islands,  that  serve  still 


TRAVELS  UN  AORTH-AMERICA.  ^27 

farther  for  its  defence  ;  it  is  only  accessible  one  way  on  the 
land  side,  by  a  long  neck  or  tongue  of  land,  surrounded  by  the 
sea  on  each  side,  forming  a  sort  of  causeway.  To  the  north 
ward  of  the  town  is  another  peninsula,  which  adheres  to  the 
opposite  shore  by  a  very  short  rock,  and  on  this  peninsula  is  an 
eminence  called  Bunker's  hill,  at  the  foot  of  which  are  the  re 
mains  of  the  little  town  of  Charlestown.  Cambridge  is  situa 
ted  to  the  northwest,  about  two  miles  from  Boston,  but  to  go 
there  in  a  right  line,  you  must  cross  a  pretty  considerable 
arm  of  the  sea,  in  which  are  dangerous  shoals,  and  upon  the 
coast,  morasses  difficult  to  pass,  so  that  the  only  communication 
betweea  the  whole  northern  part  of  the  continent,  and  the 
town  of  Boston,  is  by  the  ferry  of  Charlestown,  and  that  of  Wi- 
nissimmet.  The  road  to  Cambridge  lies  through  the  field  of  bat 
tle  of  Bunker's  hill.  After  an  attentive  examination  of  that 
post,  I  could  find  nothing  formidable  in  it  ;*  for  the  Americans 
had  scarcely  time  to  form  a  breastwork,  that  is,  a  slight  re 
trenchment  without  a  ditch,  which  shelters  the  men  from  mus 
ket  shot  as  high  as  the  breast.  Their  obstinate  resistance, 
therefore,  and  the  prodigious  loss  sustained  by  the  English  on 
this  occasion,  must  be  attributed  solely  to  their  valour.  The 
British  troops  were  repulsed  on  all  sides,  and  put  in  such  dis 
order,  that  General  Howe  is  said  to  have  been  at  one  time  left 
single  in  the  field  of  battle,  until  General  Clinton  arrived  with 
a  reinforcement,  and  turned  the  left  of  the  American  position 
which  was  weaker  and  more  accessible  on  that  side.  It  was 
then  that  General  Warren,  who  was  formerly  a  physician,  fell, 
and  the  Americans  quitted  the  field,  less  perhaps  from  the  su 
periority  of  the  enemy,  than  from  knowing  that  they  had  ano 
ther  position  as  good,  behind  the  neck  which  leads  to  Cam 
bridge  ;  for,  in  fact,  that  of  Bunker's  hill  was  useful  only  in  as 
much  as  it  commanded  Charlestown  ferry, f  and  allowed  them 
to  raise  batteries  against  the  town  of  Boston.  But  was  it  ne 
cessary  to  expose  themselves  to  the  destruction  of  their  own 
houses,  #nd  the  slaughter  of  their  fellow-citizens,  only  that 
they  might  harass  the  English  in  an  asylum  which  sooner 
or  later  they  must  abandon'?  Besides  that,  the  Ameri- 


*  Bunker's  hill  is  an  eminence  neither  more  steep,  nor  more  diffi 
cult  of  access  than  Primrose  hill  near  Hampstead,  in  the  neighbour 
hood  of  London. —  Trans. 

t  A  bridge  of  1503  feet  in  length,  and  42  in  breadth,  is  just  com 
pleted  (in  1786)  between  Boston  and  Charlestown,  well  lighted  at 
night  with  40  lamps.  This  important  work  was  executed  by  subscrip 
tion.  The  greatest  depth  of  the  water  is  46  feet  nine  inches,  and  the 
least  is  14  feet. — Trans. 


828  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

cans  could  only  occupy  the  heights  of  Bunker's  hill,  the  sloops 
and  frigates  of  the  enemy  taking  them  in  flank  the  instant  they 
descended  from  them.  Such,  however,  was  the  effect  of  this 
memorable  battle,  in  every  respect  honourable  for  our  allies, 
that  it  is  impossible  to  calculate  the  consequences  of  a  com 
plete  victory.*  The  English  who  had  upwards  of  eleven  hun 
dred  men  killed  and  wounded,  in  which  number  were  seventy 
officers,  might  possibly  have  lost  as  many  more  in  their  retreat ; 
for  they  were  under  the  necessity  of  embarking  to  return  to 
Boston,  which  would  have  been  almost  impracticable,  without 
the  protection  of  their  shipping  ;  the  little  army  of  Boston 
would  in  that  case  have  been  almost  totally  destroyed,  and  the 
town  must  of  course  have  been  evacuated.  But  what  would  have 
been  the  result  of  this  9  Independence  was  not  then  decla 
red,  and  the  road  to  negociation  was  still  open  ;  an  accommo 
dation  might  have  taken  place  between  the  mother  country 
and  her  colonies,  and  animosities  might  have  subsided.  The 
separation  would  not  have  been  completed,  England  would 
not  have  expended  one  hundred  millions  ;  she  would  have  pre 
served  Minorca  and  the  Floridas  ••  nor  would  the  balance  of 
Europe,  and  the  liberty  of  the  seas  have  been  restored.  For  it 
must  in  general  be  admitted,  that  England  alone  has  reason  to 
complain  of  the  manner  in  which  the  fate  of  arms  has  decided 
this  long  quarrel. 

Scarcely  have  you  passed  the  neck  which  joins  the  peninsula 
to  the  Continent,  and  which  is  hemmed  in  on  one  side  by  the 
mouth  of  the  Mystick,  and  on  the  other  by  a  bay  called  Milk 
pond,  than  you  see  the  ground  rising  before  you,  and  you  dis 
tinguish  on  several  eminences  the  principal  forts  which  defend 
ed  the  entrenched  camp  of  Cambridge.  The  left  of  this  camp 
was  bounded  by  the  river,  and  the  right  extended  towards  the 
sea,  covering  this  town  which  lay  in  the  rear.  I  examined 
several  of  these  forts,  particularly  that  of  Prospect  hill.  All 
these  entrenchments  seemed  to  me  to  be  executed  with  intel 
ligence  ;  nor  was  I  surprised  that  the  English  respected  them 
the  whole  winter  of  1776.  The  American  troops,  who  guard 
ed  this  post,  passed  the  winter  at  their  ease,  in  good  barracks, 
well  flanked,  and  well  covered;  they  had  at  that  time  abun 
dance  of  provisions,  whilst  the  English,  notwithstanding  their 
communication  with  the  sea,  were  in  want  of  various  essential 
articles,  particularly  fire-wood  and  fresh  meat.  Their  govern 
ment,  not  expecting  to  find  the  Americans  so  bold  and  obsti- 


*  This  attack  on  Bunker's  hill  took  place  in  the  time  of  the  hay  har 
vest,  and  much  execution  was  done  among  the  British  by  some  field- 
pieces,  and  musketry  concealed  behind  the  cocks  of  hay. — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  329 

mate,  provided  too  late  for  the  supply  of  the  little  army  at  Bos 
ton.     This  negligence,  however,  they  endeavoured  to  repair, 
and  spared  nothing  for  that  purpose,  by  freighting  a  great  num 
ber  of  vessels,  in  which  they  crowded  a  vast  number  of  sheep, 
oxen,  hogs,  and  poultry  of  every  kind;  but  these  ships,  sailing 
at  a  bad  season  of  the  year,  met  with  gales  of  wind  in  going 
out  of  port,  and  were  obliged  to  throw  the  greatest  part  of  their 
cargoes  into  the  sea,  insomuch  that,  it  is  said,  the  coast  of  Ire 
land,  and  the  adjoining  ocean,  were  for  some  time  covered 
with  herds,  which,  unlike  those  of  Proteus,  were  neither  able 
to  live  amidst  the  waves,  nor  gain  the  shore.     The  Americans, 
on  the  contrary,  who  had  the  whole  continent  at  their  disposal, 
and  had  neither  exhausted  their  resources,  nor  their  credit, 
lived  happy  and  tranquil  in  their  barracks,  awaiting  the  suc 
cours  promised  them  in  the  spring.     These  succours  were  of 
fered  and  furnished  with  much  generosity  by  the  southern  pro 
vinces  ;  provinces,  with  which,  under  the  English  government, 
they  had  no  connexion  whatever,  and  which  were  more  foreign 
to  them  than  the  mother  country.     It  was  already  a  great  mark 
of  confidence,  therefore,  on  the  part  of  the  New-Englanders, 
to  count  upon  that  aid  which  was  offered  by  generosity  alone  :* 
but  who  could  foresee  that  a  citizen  of  Virginia,  who,  for  the 
first  time,  visited  these  northern  countries,  not  only  should  be 
come  their  liberator,  but  should  even  know  how  to  erect  tro 
phies,  to  serve  as  a  base  to  the  great  edifice  of  liberty  f  Who 
could  foresee  that  the  enterprise,  which  failed  at  Bunker's  hill, 
at  the  price  even  of  the  blood  of  the  brave  Warren,  and  that 
of  a  thousand  English  sacrificed  to  his  valour,  attempted  on 
another  side  and  conducted  by  General  Washington,  should 
be  the  work  only  of  one  night,  the  effect  of  a  simple  manoau- 
vre,  of  a  single  combination  fr?     Who  could  foresee,  in  short, 
that  the  English  would  be  compelled  to  evacuate  Boston,  and 
to  abandon  their  whole  artillery  and  all  their  ammunition, 
without  costing  the  life  of  a  single  soldier  ? 

To  attain  this  important  object,  it  was  only  necessary  to  oc 
cupy  the  heights  of  Dorchester,  which  formed  another  penin 
sula,  the  extremity  of  which  is  within  cannon  shot  of  Boston, 
and  in  a  great  measure  commands  the  port :  but  it  required  the 
eye  of  General  Washington  to  appreciate  the  importance  of 
this  post ;  it  required  his  activity  and  resolution  to  undertake 
to  steal  a  march  upon  the  English,  who  surrounded  it  with  their 


*  Surely  good  policy  had  some  share  in  the  alacrity  of  these  prof 
fered  succours,  nor  does  this  supposition,  whilst  it  does  credit  to  the 
discernment,  derogate  from  the  generosity  of  the  Virginians.  Tu«, 
res  agitur.  paries  cum  proximus  ardct ! — Trans. 

42 


330  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

shipping,  and  who  could   transport  troops   thither  with  the 
greatest  facility.     But  it  required  still  more  :  nothing  short  of 
the  power,  or  rather  the  great  credit  he  had  already  acquired 
in  the  army,  and  the  discipline  he  had  established,  were  requi 
site  to  effect  a  general  movement  of  the  troops  encamped  at 
Cambridge,  and  at  Roxbury,  and  carry  his  plan  into  execution, 
in  one  night,  with  such  celerity  and  silence,  as  that  the  English 
should  only  be  apprised  of  it,  on  seeing,  at  the  break  of  day, 
entrenchments  already  thrown  up,  and  batteries  ready  to  open 
upon  them.     Indeed  he  had  carried  his  precautions  so  far,  as 
to  order  the  whips  to  be  taken  from  the  wagoners,  lest  their 
impatience,  and  the  difficulty  of  the  roads  might  induce  them 
to  make  use  of  them,  and  occasion  an  alarm.     It  is  not  easy 
to  add  to  the  astonishment  naturally  excited  by  the  principal, 
and  above  all,  by  the  early  events  of  this  memorable  war ;  but 
I  must  mention,  that  whilst  General  Washington  was  blocka 
ding  the  English  in  Boston,  his  army  was  in  such  want  of  pow 
der  as  not  to  have  three  rounds  a  man  ;   and  that  if  a  bomb- 
ketch  had  not  chanced  to  run  on  shore  in  the  road,  containing 
some  tons  of  powder,  which  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Ameri 
cans,  it  would  have  been  impossible  to  attempt  the  affair  of 
Dorchester ;   as  without  it,  they  had  not  wherewithal  to  serve 
the  batteries  proposed  to  be  erected. 

I  apprehend  that  nobody  will  be  displeased  at  this  digres 
sion  ;  but  should  it  be  otherwise,  I  must  observe,  thatin  a  very 
short  excursion  I  had  made  to  Boston,  eighteen  months  before, 
having  visited  all  the  retrenchments  at  Roxbury  and  Dorches 
ter,  I  thought  it  unnecessary  to  return  thither,  and  I  was  the 
less  disposed  to  it  from  the  rigour  of  the  season,  and  the 
short  time  I  had  to  remain  at  Boston.  But  how  is  it  possible 
to  enter  into  a  few  details  of  this  so  justly  celebrated  town, 
without  recalling  the  principal  events  which  have  given  it  re 
nown  1'  But  how,  above  all,  resist  the  pleasure  of  retracing 
every  thing  which  may  contribute  to  the  glory  of  the  Ameri 
cans,  and  the  reputation  of  the  illustrious  Chief?  Nor  is  this 
straying  from  the  temple  of  the  Muses,  to  consider  objects 
which  must  long  continue  to  constitute  their  theme.  Cam 
bridge  is  an  asylum  worthy  of  them ;  it  is  a  little  town  inhabit 
ed  only  by  students,  professors,  and  the  small  number  of  ser 
vants  and  workmen  whom  they  employ.  The  building  desti 
ned  for  the  university  is  noble  and  commanding,  though  it  be 
not  yet  completed  ;  it  already  contains  three  handsome  halls 
for  the  classes,  a  cabinet  of  natural  philosophy.,  and  instru 
ments  of  every  kind,  as  well  for  astronomy,  as  for  the  sciences 
dependant  on  mathematics;  a  vast  gallery,  in  which  the  library 
is  placed,  and  a  chapel  corresponding  with  the  grandeur  and 
magnificence  of  the  other  parts  of  the  edifice.  The  librarv, 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  331 

which  is  already  numerous,  and  which  contains  handsome  edi 
tions  of  the  best  authors,  and  well  bound  books,  owes  its  rich 
ness  to  the  zeal  of  several  citizens^  who,  shortly  before  the  war, 
formed  a  subscription,  by  means  of  which  they  began  to  send 
for  books  from  England.  But  as  their  fund  was  very  moderate, 
they  availed  themselves  of  their  connexions  with  the  mother 
country,  and,  above  all,  of  that  generosity  which  the  English  in 
variably  display  whenever  the  object  is,  to  propagate  useful  know 
ledge  in  any  part  of  the  world.  These  zealous  citizens  not  only 
wrote  to  England,  but  made  several  voyages  thither  in  search 
of  assistance,  which  they  readily  obtained.  One  individual 
alone  made  them  a  present  to  the  amount  of  £500  sterling ;  I 
wish  I  could  recollect  his  name,  but  it  is  easy  to  discover  it.* 
It  is  inscribed  in  letters  of  gold  over  the  compartment  con 
taining  the  books  which  he  bestowed,  and  which  form  a  parti 
cular  library.  For  it  is  the  rule,  that  each  donation  to  the 
university  shall  remain  as  it  was  received,  and  occupy  a  place 
apart;  a  practice  better  adapted  to  encourage  the  generosity 
of  benefactors,  and  to  express  gratitude,  than  to  facilitate  the 
librarian's  labour,  or  that  of  the  students.  It  is  probable  there 
fore,  that  as  the  collection  is  augmenting  daily,  a  more  com 
modious  arrangement  will  be  adopted. 

The  professors  of  the  university  live  in  their  own  houses, 
and  the  students  board  in  the  town  for  a  moderate  price.  Mr. 
Willard,  who  was  just  elected  President,  is  also  a  member  of 
the  academy  of  Boston,  to  which  he  acts  as  Secretary  of  the 
foreign  correspondence.  We  had  already  had  some  inter 
course  with  each  other,  but  it  pleased  me  to  have  the  opportu 
nity  of  forming  a  more  particular  acquaintance  with  him ;  he 
unites  to  great  understanding  and  literature,  a  knowledge  of 
the  abstruse  sciences,  and  particularly  astronomy.  I  must  here 
repeat,  what  I  have  observed  elsewhere,  that  in  comparing  our 
universities  arid  our  studies  in  general,  with  those  of  the  Ame 
ricans,  it  would  not  be  our  interest  to  call  for  a  decision  of 


*  The  Translator  is  happy  in  being  able  to  supply  this  deficiency, 
by  recording  the  respected  name  of  the  late  THOMAS  HOLLIS,  Esq.  ; 
a  truly  eminent  citizen  of  England,  who,  in  every  act  of  his  public 
and  private  life,  did  honour  to  his  illustrious  name,  to  his  country,  and 
to  human  nature.  One  of  his  ancestors  too,  of  the  same  name,  found 
ed,  in  this  same  college,  a  professorship  for  the  mathematics  and  natu 
ral  philosophy,  and  ten  scholarships  for  students  in  these  and  other 
sciences,  with  other  benefactions,  to  the  amount  of  little  less  than 
.£5000  sterling.  Public  virtue,  and  private  accomplishments  seem  to 
be  hereditary  in  this  family  ;  Mr.  Thomas  Brand  Hollis,  the  inheritor  of 
this  fortune,  pursuing  the  footsteps  of  his  excellent  predecessors — 
passilus  ffiquis. — Trans. 


332  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

the  question,  which  of  the  two  nations  should  be  considered 
as  an  infant  people. 

The  short  time  I  remained  at  Cambridge  allowed  me  to  see 
only  two  of  the  professors,  and  as  many  students,  whom  I  either 
met  with,  or  who  came  to  visit  me  at  Mr.  Willard's.  I  was 
expected  to  dine  with  our  Consul,  Mr.  de  le  Tombes,  and  I  was 
obliged  to  hurry,  for  they  dine  earlier  at  Boston  than  at  Phila 
delphia.  I  found  upwards  of  twenty  persons  assembled,  as 
well  French  officers,  as  American  gentlemen,  in  the  number  of 
whom  was  Doctor  Cooper,  a  man  justly  celebrated,  and  not 
less  distinguished  by  the  graces  of  his  mind,  and  the  amiable- 
ness  of  his  character,  than  by  his  uncommon  eloquence,  and 
patriotic  zeal.  He  has  always  lived  in  the  strictest  intimacy 
with  Mr.  Hancock,  and  has  been  useful  to  him  on  more  than  one 
occasion.  Among  the  Americans  attached  by  political  inte 
rest  to  France,  no  one  has  displayed  a  more  marked  attention 
to  the  French,  nor  has  any  man  received  from  nature  a  charac 
ter  more  analogous  to  their  own.  But  it  was  in  the  sermon  he 
delivered,  at  the  solemn  inauguration  of  the  new  constitution 
of  Massachusetts,  that  he  seemed  to  pour  forth  his  whole  soul, 
and  develop  at  once  all  the  resources  of  his  genius,  and  every 
sentiment  of  his  heart.  The  French  nation,  and  the  monarch 
who  governs  it,  are  there  characterized  and  celebrated  with 
equal  grace  and  delicacy.  Never  was  there  so  happy,  and  so 
poignant  a  mixture  of  religion,  politics,  philosophy,  morality, 
and  even  of  literature.  This  discourse  must  be  known  at  Pa 
ns,  where  I  sent  several  copies,  which  I  have  no  doubt  will  be 
eagerly  translated.  I  hope  only  that  it  will  escape  the  avidi 
ty  of  those  hasty  writers,  who  have  made  a  sort  of  property  of 
the  present  revolution ;  nothing,  in  fact,  is  more  dangerous 
than  these  precipitate  traders  in  literature,  who  pluck  the  fruit 
the  moment  they  have  uny  hopes  of  selling  it,  thus  depriving 
us  of  the  pleasure  of  enjoying  it  in  its  maturity.  It  is  for  a 
^allust  and  a  Tacitus  alone,  to  transmit  in  their  works,  the  ac 
tions  and  harangues  of  their  contemporaries ;  nor  did  they 
write  till  after  some  great  change  in  affairs  had  placed  an  im 
mense  interval  between  the  epocha  of  the  history  they  trans 
mitted,  and  that  in  which  it  was  composed ;  the  art  of  printing 
too,  being  then  unknown,  they  were  enabled  to  measure,  and 
to  moderate,  at  pleasure,  the  publicity  they  thought  proper  to 
give  to  their  productions. 

Doctor  Cooper,  whom  I  never  quitted  without  regret,  propo 
sing  to  me  to  drink  tea  with  him,  I  accepted  it  without  diffi 
culty.  He  received  me  in  a  very  small  house,  furnished  in  the 
simplest  manner,  every  thing  in  it  bore  the  character  of  a  mo 
desty  which  proved  the  feeble  foundation  of  those  calumnies  so 
industriously  propagated  by  the  English,  who  lost  no  occasion 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AM  ERIC  A.  && 

of  insinuating  that  his  zeal  for  the  Congress  and  their  allies  had 
a  very  different  motive  from  patriotism  and  the  genuine  love  of 
liberty.*  A  visit  to  Mrs.  Tudor,  where  Mr.  de  Vaudreuil  and  I 
had  again  the  pleasure  of  an  agreeable  conversation,  interrupt 
ed  from  time  to  time  by  pleasing  music,  rapidly  brought  round 
the  hour  for  repairing  to  the  club.  This  assembly  is  held  every 
Tuesday,  in  rotation,  at  the  houses  of  the  different  members 
who  compose  it ;  this  was  the  day  for  Mr.  Russel,f  an  honest 
merchant,  who  gave  us  an  excellent  reception.  The  laws  of 
the  club  are  not  straitening,  the  number  of  dishes  for  supper 
alone  are  limited,  and  there  must  be  only  two  of  meat,  for  sup 
per  is  not  the  American  repast.  Vegetables,  pies,  and  espe 
cially  good  wine,  are  not  spared.  The  hour  of  assembling  is 
after  tea,  when  the  company  play  at  cardsj  converse  and  read 
the  public  papers,  arid  sit  down  to  table  between  nine  and  ten. 
The  supper  was  as  free  as  if  there  had  been  no  strangers,  songs 
were  given  at  table,  and  a  Mr.  Stewart  sung  some  which  were 
very  gay,  with  a  tolerable  good  voice. 

The  19th  the  weather  was  very  bad,  and  I  went  to  breakfast 
with  Mr.  Broom,  where  I  remained  some  time,  the  conversation 
being  always  agreeable  and  unrestrained.  Some  officers  who 
called  upon  me,  having  taken  up  the  rest  of  the  morning,  I  at 
length  joined  Mr.  de  Vaudreuil  to  go  and  dine  with  Mr.  Gushing. 
The  Lieutenant-Governor,  on  this  occasion,  perfectly  supported 


*  Mr.  John  Temple  finding  himself  detected,  and  ill  received  at, 
Boston,  wa«  the  undoubted  author  of  these  calumnies  against  Doctor 
Cooper,  who  had  nobly  dared  to  warn  his  countrymen  against  his  insi 
dious  attempts  to  disunite  the  friends  to  liberty,  under  the  mask  of  zeal 
and  attachment  to  America.  He  dared,  contrary  to  the  decisive  evi 
dence  of  a  long  series  of  pure  disinterested  public  conduct  in  the  hour 
of  danger,  when  Mr.  Temple  was  a  skulking,  pensioned  refugee  in 
England,  more  than  to  insinuate,  that  Doctor  Cooper,  and  Mr.  Han 
cock,  that  martyr  to  the  public  cause,  were  actually  in  pay  of  the 
French  court ;  but  if  ever  there  could  be  a  doubt  entertained  of  such 
characters,  founded  on  the  assertions  of  such  a  man,  his  subsequent 
conduct  has  irrefragably  proved,  that  as  the  calumny  was  propagated 
by  him,  so  the  suggestion  must  have  originated  in  his  own  heart.  Let 
not  the  Anglo-American  Consul-General  to  the  United  States  complain. 
Historical  justice  will  overtake  both  him  and  Arnold.  It  is  a  condition 
in  the  indenture  of  their  bargain. —  Trans. 

I  The  translator  had  the  pleasure  of  being  acquainted  with  the  son 
of  Mr.  Russel  and  his  friend  VVinthrop,  in  France  and  Holland.  He 
had  the  good  fortune  likewise  to  meet  with  the  latter  at  Boston.  He 
takes  a  pride  in  mentioning  these  amiable  young  men,  as  they  cannot 
fail  of  becoming  valuable  members  of  a  rising  country,  which  attracts 
the  attention  of  the  world. — Trans. 


S34  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

the  justly  acquired  reputation  of  the  inhabitants  of  Boston,  of 
being  friends  to  good  wine,  good  cheer,  and  hospitality.  After 
dinner  he  conducted  us  into  the  apartment  of  his  son,  and  his 
daughter-in-law,  with  whom  we  were  invited  to  drink  tea.  For 
though  they  inhabited  the  same  house  with  their  father,  they 
had  a  separate  household,  according  to  the  custom  in  America ; 
where  it  is  very  rare  for  young  people  to  live  with  their  parents, 
when  they  are  once  settled  in  the  world.  In  a  nation  which  is 
in  a  perpetual  state  of  increase,  every  thing  savours  of  that  ge 
neral  tendency ;  every  thing  divides  and  multiplies.  The  sen 
sible  and  amiable  Mrs.  Tudor  was  once  more  our  centre  of 
union,  during  the  evening,  which  terminated  in  a  familiar  and 
very  agreeable  supper  at  young  Mrs.  Bowdoin's.  Mr.  de  Pa- 
rois,  and  Mr.  Dumas  sung  different  airs  and  duets,  and  Mrs. 
Whitmore  undertook  the  pleasure  of  the  eyes,  whilst  they  sup 
plied  the  gratification  of  our  ears. 

The  20th  was  wholly  devoted  to  society.  Mr.  Broom  gave 
me  an  excellent  dinner,  the  honours  of  which  were  performed 
by  Mrs.  Jarvis  and  her  sister,  with  as  much  politeness  and  at 
tention  as  if  they  had  been  old  and  ugly.  I  supped  with  Mr. 
Bowdoin,  where  I  still  found  more  handsome  women  assembled. 
If  I  do  not  place  Mrs.  Temple,  Mr.  Bowdoin's  daughter,  in  the 
number,  it  is  not  from  want  of  respect,  but  because  her  figure  is 
so  distinguished  as  to  make  it  unnecessary  to  pronounce  her  tru 
ly  beautiful ;  nor  did  she  suffer  in  the  comparison  with  a  girl  of 
twelve  years  old,  who  was  formed  however  to  attract  attention. 
This  was  neither  a  handsome  child  nor  a  pretty  woman,  but 
rather  an  angel  in  disguise  of  a  young  girl ;  for  I  am  at  a  loss 
otherwise  to  express  the  idea  which  young  persons,  of  that  age, 
convey  in  England  and  America ;  which,  as  I  have  already  said, 
is  not,  among  us,  the  age  of  beauty  and  the  graces.  They 
made  me  play  at  whist,  for  the  first  time  since  my  arrival  in 
America.  The  cards  were  English,  that  is,  much  handsomer 
and  dearer  than  ours,  and  we  marked  our  points  with  louis- 
d'ors,  or  six-and-thirties  ;  when  the  party  was  finished,  the  loss 
was  not  difficult  to  settle  ;  for  the  company  was  still  faithful  to 
that  voluntary  law  established  in  society  from  the  commence 
ment  of  the  troubles,  which  prohibited  playing  for  money  du 
ring  the  war.  This  law,  however,  was  not  scrupulously  ob 
served  in  the  clubs,  and  parties  made  by  the  men  among 
themselves.  The  inhabitants  of  Boston  are  fond  of  high  play,* 


*  It  is  with  real  concern  the  translator  adds,  that  gaming  is  a  vice 
but  too  prevalent  in  all  the  great  towns,  arid  which  has  been  already 
attended  with  the  most  fatal  consequences,  and  with  frequent  suicide. 
— Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  'NORTH- AMERICA.  335 

and  it  is  fortunate,  perhaps,  that  the  war  happened  when  it  did, 
to  moderate  this  passion  which  began  to  be  attended  with  dan 
gerous  consequences. 

On  Thursday  the  21st  there  fell  so  much  snow  as  to  deter 
mine  me  to  defer  my  departure,  and  Mr.  Brick,  who  gave  a 
great  dinner  to  Mr.  d'Aboville,  and  the  French  artillery  officers, 
understanding  that  I  was  still  at  Boston,  invited  me  to  dine, 
whither  I  went  in  Mr.  de  Vaudreuil's  carriage.  Mr.  Barrel 
came  also  to  invite  me  to  tea,  where  we  went  after  dinner ; 
and,  as  soon  as  we  were  disengaged,  hastened  to  return  to  Mrs. 
Tudor's.  Her  husband,*  after  frequently  whispering  to  her,  at 
length  communicated  to  us  an  excellent  piece  of  pleasantry  of 
her  invention,  which  was  a  petition  to  the  queen,  written  in 
French,  wherein,  under  the  pretext  of  complaining  of  Mr.  dc 
Vaudreuil  and  his  squadron,  she  bestowed  on  them  the  most 
delicate  and  most  charming  eulogium.  We  passed  the  re 
mainder  of  the  evening  with  Mr.  Brick,  who  had  again  invited 
us  to  supper,  where  we  enjoyed  all  the  pleasures  inseparable 
from  his  society.  I  had  a  great  deal  of  conversation  with  Doc 
tor  Jarvis,  a  young  physician,  and  also  a  surgeon,  but  what 
was  better,  a  good  whig,  with  excellent  views  in  politics. 
When  Mr.  D'Estaing  left  Boston,  the  sick  and  wounded  were 
entrusted  to  his  care,  and  he  informed  me,  that  the  sick,  who 
were  recovering  fast,  in  general  relapsed,  on  removing  them 
from  the  town  of  Boston,  where  they  enjoyed  a  good  air,  to 
Roxbury,  which  is  an  unhealthy  spot,  surrounded  with  marshes. 
The  physicians  in  America  pay  much  more  attention  than  ours 
to  the  qualities  of  the  atmosphere,  and  frequently  employ 
change  of  air  as  an  effectual  remedy. 


*  Mr.  Tudor  is  the  gentleman  who  has  so  frequently  distinguished 
himself  by  animated  orations  on  the  annual  commemoration  of  some 
of  the  leading  events  of  this  civil  war. 


CHAPTER  HI. 


PROVIDENCE HARTFORD LITCHFIELD FISHKILL NEWBURGH 

CHESTER WARWICK SUSSEX MORAVIAN    MILL EASTON 

BETHLEHEM PHILADELPHIA. 

THE  22d  I  set  out  at  ten  o'clock,  after  taking  leave  of  Mr. 
Vaudreuil,  and  having  had  reason  to  be  satisfied  with  him,  and 
the  town  of  Boston.  It  is  inconceivable  how  the  stay  of  the 
squadron  has  contributed  to  conciliate  the  two  nations,  and 
to  strengthen  the  connections  which  unite  them.  The  virtue  of 
Mr.  de  Vaudreuil,  his  splendid  example  of  good  morals,  as  well 
as  the  simplicity  and  goodness  of  his  manners,  an  example  fol 
lowed,  beyond  all  hope  and  belief,  by  the  officers  of  his  squa 
dron,  have  captivated  the  hearts  of  a  people,  who  though  now 
the  most  determined  enemies  to  the  English,  had  never  hither 
to  been  friendly  to  the  French.  I  have  heard  it  observed  a 
hundred  times  at  Boston,  that  in  the  time  even  of  the  greatest 
harmony  with  the  mother  country,  an  English  ship  of  war  ne 
ver  anchored  in  the  port  without  some  violent  quarrels  between 
the  people  and  the  sailors  ;  yet  the  French  squadron  had  been 
there  three  months  without  occasioning  the  slightest  difference. 

The  officers  of  our  navy  were  every  where  received,  not  only 
as  allies,  but  brothers  ;  and  though  they  were  admitted  by  the 
ladies  of  Boston  to  the  greatest  familiarity,  not  a  single  indis 
cretion,  not  even  the  most  distant  attempt  at  impertinence  ever 
disturbed  the  confidence,  or  innocent  harmony  of  this  pleasing 
intercourse. 

The  observations  I  have  already  made  on  the  commerce  of 
New-England,  render  it  unnecessary  to  enter  into  any  particu 
lar  details  on  that  of  the  town  of  Boston.  I  shall  only  mention 
a  vexation  exercised  towards  the  merchants  ;  a  vexation  still 
more  odious  than  that  I  have  spoken  of  relative  to  Mr.  Tracy, 
and  of  which  I  had  not  the  smallest  suspicion,  until  Mr.  Brick 
gave  me  a  particular  account  of  it.  Besides  the  excise  and 
license  duties  mentioned  above,  the  merchants  are  subject  to 
a  sort  of  tax  on  wealth,  which  is  arbitrarily  imposed  by  twelve 
assessors,  named  indeed  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  town  ;  but  as 
the  most  considerable  merchant  has  only  one  vote  any  more 
than  the  smallest  shopkeeper,  it  may  be  imagined  how  the  in- 
ferests  of  the  rich  are  respected  by  this  committee.  These 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  337 

twelve  assessors  having  full  power  to  tax  the  people  according 
to  their  ability,  they  estimate,  on  a  view,  the  business  transact 
ed  by  each  merchant,  and  his  probable  profits.  Mr.  Brick,  for 
example,  being  agent  for  the  French  navy,  and  interested  be 
sides  in  several  branches  of  commerce,  among  others  in  that  of 
ensurance,  they  calculate  how  much  business  he  may  be  sup 
posed  to  do,  of  which  they  judge  by  the  bills  of  exchange  he 
endorses,  and  by  the  policies  he  underwrites,  and  according  to 
their  valuation,  in  which  neither  losses  nor  expenses  are  reckon 
ed,  they  suppose  him  to  gain  so  much  a  day  ;  and  he  is  con 
sequently  subjected  to  a  proportionable  daily  tax.  During  the 
year  1781,  Mr.  Brick  paid  no  less  than  three  guineas  and  a  half 
per  day.  It  is  evident  that  nothing  short  of  patriotism,  and 
above  all,  the  hope  of  a  speedy  conclusion  to  the  war,  could 
induce  men  to  submit  to  so  odious  and  arbitrary  an  impost ; 
nor  can  the  patience  with  which  the  commercial  interest  in 
general,  and  Mr.  Brick  in  particular,  bear  this  burthen,  be  too 
much  commended.  ' 

The  22d  I  went,  without  stopping,  -to  Wrentham,  where  I 
slept,  and  reached  Providence  to  dinner  the  23d ;  where  I 
found  our  infantry  assembled,  and  waiting  till  the  vessels  were 
ready  to  receive  them.  Here  I  remained  six  days,  during 
which  I  made  an  excursion  of  four  and  twenty  hours  to  visit 
my  old  friends  at  Newport. 

The  30th  I  left  Providence,  with  Messrs.  Lynch,  Montes 
quieu,  and  de  Vaudreuil,  and  slept  at  Voluntown.  The  next 
day  Mr.  Lynch  returned  to  Providence,*  and  we  separated 
with  mutual  regret.  The  same  day,  the  1st  of  December,  we 
stopped  at  Windham  to  rest  our  horses,  and  slept  at  White's 
tavern  at  Andover,  near  Bolton.  The  2d  1  got  to  breakfast  at 
Hartford  where  I  staid  two  or  three  hours,  as  well  to  arrange 
many  particulars  relative  to  the  departure  of  my  baggage,  as 
to  pay  a  visit  to  Mrs.  Wadsworth.  Mr.  Frank  Dillon,  who 
had  come  to  me  at  Providence,  where  he  remained  a  day  long 
er  than  me,  joined  me  here.  From  hence  we  went  to  Farm- 
ington,  where  we  arrived  as  night  was  coming  on,  and  alight 
ed  at  an  inn  kept  by  a  Mr.  Wadsworth,  no  relation  of  the  Colo- 


*  Mr  Lynch,  who  was  aid-Major-Genera],  and  designed  to  be  em 
ployed  under  the  orders  of  the  Baron  de  Viornenil,  embarked  with  the 
troops.  Mr.  de  Taleyrand  was  determined  to  follow  them  as  a  simple 
volunteer,  and,  assuming  the  uniform  of  a  soldier  in  the  regiment  of 
Soissonnois,  he  marched  into  Boston  in  the  ranks  of  the  company  of 
Chasseurs.  This  company  embarked  in  the  same  vessel  with  the  Comte 
de  Seijur,  then  Colonel  en  second  of  the  Soissonnois  ;  and  Mr.  de  Ta 
leyrand  remained  attached  to  it  till  his  return  to  Europe. 

43 


338  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

nel's ;  but  with  whom  I  had  lodged  a  month  before,  when  OH 
the  march  with  my  division.  Mrs.  Lewis  hearing  of  my  arrival, 
sent  her  son  to  offer  me  a  bed  at  her  house,  which  I  declined 
with  a  promise  of  breakfasting  with  her  the  next  morning  ;  but 
in  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  she  called  on  me  herself,  accompanied 
by  a  militia  Colonel,  whose  name  I  have  forgot,  and  supped  with 
us.  The  3d,  in  the  morning,  I  visited  Mr.  Pitkin  the  minister, 
with  whom  I  had  lodged  the  preceding  year,  when  the  French 
army  was  on  its  march  to  join  General  Washington  on  the 
North  river.  He  is  a  man  of  an  extraordinary  turn,  and  rather 
an  original,  but  is  neither  deficient  in  literature  nor  informa 
tion.  His  father  was  formerly  Governor  of  Connecticut ;  he 
professes  a  great  regard  for  the  French,  and  charged  me,  half 
joking,  and  half  in  earnest,  to  give  his  compliments  to  the  king, 
and  tell  him  that  there  was  one  Presbyterian  minister  in  Ame 
rica  on  whose  prayers  he  might  reckon.  I  went  to  breakfast 
with  Mrs.  Lewis,  and  at  ten  set  out  for  Litchfield.  The  roads 
were  very  bad,  but  the  country  is  embellished  by  new  settle 
ments,  and  a  considerable  number  of  houses  newly  built,  seve 
ral  of  which  were  taverns.  It  was  four  when  we  arrived  at 
Litchfield,  and  took  up  our  quarters  at  Shelding's  tavern,  a 
new  inn,  large,  spacious,  and  neat,  but  indifferently  provided. 
We  were  struck  with  melancholy  on  seeing  Mr.  Shelding  send 
a  negro  on  horseback  into  the  neighbourhood  to  get  something 
for  our  supper,  for  which,  however,  we  did  not  wait  long,  and 
it  was  pretty  good. 

The  4th  we  set  out  at  half  past  eight,  and  baited  at  Wash 
ington,  after  admiring  a  second  time  the  picturesque  prospect 
of  the  two  falls,  and  the  furnaces,  halfway  between  Litchfield 
and  Washington.  Nor  was  it  without  pleasure  that  I  observed 
the  great  change  two  years  had  produced  in  a  country  at  that 
time  wild  and  desert.  On  passing  through  it  two  years  before, 
there  was  only  one  miserable  alehouse  at  this  place  ;  at  pre 
sent  we  had  the  choice  of  four  or  five  inns,  all  clean  and  fit  to 
lodge  in.  Morgan's  passes  for  the  best,  but  through  mistake 
we  alighted  at  another,  which  I  think  is  not  inferior  to  it.  Thus 
has  the  war,  by  stopping  the  progress  of  commerce,  proved 
useful  to  the  interior  of  the  country ;  for  it  has  not  only  obli 
ged  several  merchants  to  quit  the  Coasts,  in  search  of  peace 
able  habitations  in  the  mountains,  but  it  has  compelled  com 
merce  to  have  recourse  to  inland  conveyance,  by  which  means 
many  roads  are  now  frequented  which  formerly  were  but  little 
used.  It  was  five  in  the  afternoon  when  I  arrived  at  Moor- 
house's  tavern.  In  this  journey,  I  passed  the  river  at  Bull's 
works,  and  having  again  stopped  to  admire  the  beauty  of  the 
landscape,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  convincing  myself  that  my 
former  eulogium  is  not  exaggerated.  The  river,  which  was 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  339 

swelled  by  the  thaw,  rendered  the  cataract  still  more  sublime  ;, 
but  a  magazine  of  coals  having  fallen  down,  in  some  measure 
destroyed  the  prospect  of  the  furnaces.     On  this  occasion  I 
had  not  much  reason  to  boast  of  the  tavern.     Colonel  Moor- 
house,  after  whom  it  was  named,  no  longer  kept  it,  but  had  re 
signed  it  to  his  son,  who  was  absent,  so  that  there  were  none 
but  women  in  the  house.     Mr.  Dillon,  who  had  gone  on  a  lit 
tle  before,  had  the  greatest  difficulty  in  the  world  to  persuade 
them  to  kill  some  chickens ;  our  supper  was  but  indifferent, 
and  as  soon  as  it  was  over,  and  we  had  got  near  the  fire,  we  saw 
these  women,  to  the  number  of  four,  take  our  place  at  table,  and 
eat  the  remainder  of  it,  with  an  American  dragoon,  who  was  sta 
tioned  there.     This  gave  us  some  uneasiness  for  our  servants, 
to  whom  they  left  in  fact  a  very  trifling  portion.     On  asking- 
one  of  them,  a  girl  of  sixteen,  and  tolerably  handsome,  some 
questions  the  next  morning,  I  learnt  that  she,  as  well  as  her 
sister,  who  was  something  older,  did  not  belong  to  the  family  ; 
but  that  having  been  driven  by  the  savages  from  the  neighbour 
hood  of  Wyoming,  where  they  lived,  they  had  taken  refuge  in 
this  part  of  the  country,  where  they  worked  for  a  livelihood, 
and  that  being  intimate  with  Mrs.  Moorhouse,  they  took  a  plea 
sure  in  helping  her,  when  there  were  many  travellers  ;  for  this 
road  is  at  present  much  frequented.    Observing  this  poor  girl's 
eyes  filled  with  tears  in  relating  her  misfortune,  I  became  more 
interested,  and  on  desiring  farther  particulars,  she  told  me  that 
her  brother  was  murdered,  almost  before  her  eyes,  and  that  she 
had  barely  time  to  save  herself  on  foot,  by  running  as  fast  as 
she  could ;  that  she  had  travelled  in  this  manner  fifty  miles, 
with  her  feet  covered  with  Wood,  before  she  found  a  horse.  In 
other  respects  she  was  in  no  want,  nor  did  she  experience  any 
misery.  That  is  a  burthen  almost  unknown  in  America.   Stran 
gers  and  fugitives,  these  unfortunate  sisters  had  met  with  suc 
cours.     Lodgings,  and  nourishment,  are  never  wanting  in  this 
country ;  clothing  is  more  difficult  to  procure,  from  the  dear- 
ness  of  stuffs ;  but  for  this  they  strive  to  find  a  substitute  by 
their  own  labour.     I  gave  them  a  Louis  to  buy  some  articles  of 
dress  with ;  my  aid-de-camp,  to  whom  I  communicated  the 
story,  made  them  a  present  likewise ;  and  this  little  act  of  mu 
nificence  being  soon  made  known  to  the  mistress  of  the  house, 
obtained  us  her  esteem,  and  she  appeared  very  penitent  for 
having  shown  so  much  repugnance  to  kill  her  chickens. 

The  5th  we  set  out  at  nine,  and  rode  without  stopping,  to 
Fishkill,  where  we  arrived  at  half  past  two,  after  a  four  and 
twenty  miles  journey  through  very  bad  roads.  I  alighted  at 
Boerorn's  tavern,  which  I  knew  to  be  the  same  I  had  been  at 
two  years  before,  and  kept  by  Mrs.  Egremont.  The  house  was 
changed  for  the  better,  and  we  made  a  very  good  supper.  We 


340  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

passed  the  North  river  as  night  came  on,  and  arrived  at  si.t 
o'clock  at  Newburgh,  where  I  found  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Washing 
ton,  Colonel  Tilgham,  Colonel  Humphreys,  and  Major  Walker, 
The  head  quarters  of  Newburgh  consist  of  a  single  house, 
neither  vast  nor  commodious,  which  is  built  in  the  Dutch  fash 
ion.     The  largest  room  in  it  (which  was  the  proprietor's  par 
lour  for  his  family,  and  which  General  Washington  has  con 
verted  into  his  dining  room)  is  in  truth  tolerably  spacious,  but 
it  has  seven  doors,  and  only  one  window.     The  chimney,  or 
rather  the  chimney  back,  is  against  the  wall ;  so  that  there  is 
in  fact  but  one  vent  for  the  smoke,  and  the  fire  is  in  the  room 
itself.     I  found  the  company  assembled  in  a  small  room  which 
served  by  way  of  parlour.     At  nine  supper  was  served,  and 
when  the  hour  of  bedtime  came,  I  found  that  the  chamber,  to 
which  the  General  conducted  me,  was  the  very  parlour  I  speak 
of,  wherein  he  had  made  them  place  a  camp-bed.     We  assem 
bled  at  breakfast  the  next  morning  at  ten,  during  which  inter 
val  my  bed  was  folded  up,  and  my  chamber  became  the  sitting- 
room  for  the  whole  afternoon  ;  for  American  manners  do  not 
admit  of  a  bed  in  the  room  in  which  company  is  received,  es 
pecially  when  there  are  women.     The  smallness  of  the  house, 
and  the  difficulty  to  which  I  saw  that  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Washing 
ton  had  put  themselves  to  receive  me,  made  me  apprehensive 
lest  Mr.  Rochambeau,  who  was  to  set  out  the  day  after  me,  by 
travelling  as  fast,  might  arrive  on  the  day  that  I  remained  there. 
I  resolved  therefore  to  send  to  Fishkill  to  meet  him,  with  a  re 
quest  that  he  would  stay  there  that  night.     Nor  was  my  pre 
caution  superfluous,  for  my  express  found  him  already  at  the 
landing,  where  he  slept,  and  did  not  join" us  till  the  next  morn 
ing  as  I  was  setting  out.     The  day  I  remained  at  head-quarters 
was  passed  either  at  table  or  in  conversation.     General  Hand, 
Adjutant-General,  Colonel  Reed  of  New-Hampshire,  and  Ma 
jor  Graham  dined  with  us.     On  the  7th  I  took  leave  of  General 
Washington,  nor  is  it  difficult  to  imagine  the  pain  this  sepa 
ration  gave  me  ;  but  I  have  too  much  pleasure  in  recollecting 
the  real  tenderness  with  which  it  affected  him,  not  to  take  a 
pride  in  mentioning  it.     Colonel  Tilghman  got  on  horseback 
to  show  me,  in  the  road,  the  barracks  that  serve  as  winter 
quarters  for  the  American  army,  which  were  not  quite  finished, 
though  the  season  was  already  far  advanced,  and  the  cold  very 
severe.     They  are  spacious,  healthy,  and  well-built,  and  con 
sist  in  a  row  of  log-houses  containing  two  chambers,  each  in 
habited  by  eight  soldiers  when  complete,  which  makes  com 
monly  from  five  to  six  effectives ;  a  second  range  of  barracks 
is  destined  for  the  non-commissioned  officers.     These  barracks 
are  placed  in  the  middle  of  the  woods,  on  the  slope  of  the  hills, 
and  within  reach  of  water ;  as  the  great  object  is  a  healthy  and 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  341 

convenient  situation ;  the  army  are  on  several  lines,  not  exact 
ly  parallel  with  each  other.  But  it  will  appear  singular  in  Eu 
rope,  that  these  barracks  should  be  built  without  a  bit  of  iron, 
not  even  nails,  which  would  render  the  work  tedious  and  diffi 
cult,  were  not  the  Americans  very  expert  in  putting  wood  to 
gether.  After  viewing  the  barracks,  I  regained  the  high  road; 
but  passing  before  General  Gates'  house,  the  same  that  Gene 
ral  Knox  inhabited  in  1780,  I  stopped  some  time  to  make  a 
visit  of  politeness.  The  remainder  of  the  day  I  had  very  fine 
weather,  and  I  stopped  and  baited  my  horses  at  an  inn  in  the 
township  of  Chester.  In  this  inn  I  found  nothing  but  a  woman, 
who  appeared  good  and  honest,  and  who  had  charming  chil 
dren.  This  route  is  little  peopled,  but  new  settlements  are 
forming  every  day.  Before  we  reached  Chester  we  passed  by 
a  bridge  of  wood,  over  a  creek,  called  Murderer's  river,  which 
falls  into  the  North  river,  above  New-Windsor,  on  the  other 
side  of  Chester ;  I  still  kept  skirting  the  ridge  of  mountains 
which  separates  this  country  from  the  Clove.  Warwick,  where 
I  slept,  a  pretty  large  place  for  so  wild  a  country,  is  twelve 
miles  from  Chester,  and  twenty-eight  from  Newburgh  ;  I  lodg 
ed  here  in  a  very  good  inn  kept  by  Mr.  Smith,  the  same  at 
whose  house  I  had  slept  two  years  before  atCkeat,  which  was 
much  inferior  to  this.  The  American  army  having,  for  two 
years  past,  had  their  winter  quarters  near  West-Point,  Mr. 
Smith  imagined,  with  reason,  that  this  road  would  be  more  fre 
quented  than  that  of  Paramus,  and  he  had  taken  this  inn  of  a 
Mr.  Beard,  at  whose  house  we  stopped  next  day  to  breakfast. 
The  house  had  been  given  up  to  him  with  some  furniture,  and 
he  had  upwards  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  acres  of  land  belong 
ing  to  it,  for  the  whole  of  which  he  paid  seventy  pounds,  (cur 
rency)  making  about  one  hundred  pistoles.  I  had  every  rea 
son  to  be  content  both  with  my  old  acquaintance  and  the  new 
establishment. 

The  next  morning,  the  7th,  we  set  out  before  breakfast,  and 
the  snow  began  to  fall  as  soon  as  we  got  on  horseback,  which 
did  not  cease  till  we  got  to  Beard's  tavern.  This  house  was 
not  near  so  good  as  the  other,  but  the  workmen  were  busy  in 
augmenting  it.  On  inquiring  of  Mr.  Beard,  who  is  an  Irishman, 
the  reason  of  his  quitting  his  good  house  at  Warwick  to  keep 
this  inn,  he  informed  me.  that  it  was  a  settlement  he  was  form 
ing  for  his  son-in-law,  and  that  as  soon  as  he  had  put  it  in  or 
der,  he  should  return  to  his  house  at  Warwick.  This  Mr. 
Beard  had  long  lived  as  a  merchant  at  New-York,  and  even 
sold  books,  which  I  learnt  from  observing  some  good  ones  at 
his  house,  among  others.  Human  Prudence,  which  I  purchased 
of  him.  It  ceased  snowing  at  noon,  and  the  weather  modera 
ted  ;  but  in  the  afternoon  it  returned  in  blasts,  for  which,  how- 


342  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

ever,  I  was  indemnified  by  the  beautiful  effect  produced  by  the 
setting  sun  amidst  the  clouds,  its  rays  being  reflected  on  the 
east,  and  forming  a  sort  of  parhelion.  Towards  the  evening 
the  weather  became  very  cold,  and  we  reached  Sussex  an  hour 
before  dark,  and  took  up  our  lodgings  at  Mr.  Willis'.  The 
fire  being  riot  well  lighted  in  the  room  intended  forme,  I  step 
ped  into  the  parlour  where  I  found  several  people  who  appear 
ed  to  be  collected  together  upon  business ;  they  had,  accord 
ing  to  custom,  drank  a  good  quantity  of  grog,  one  of  them, 
called  Mr.  Archibald  Stewart,  smelt  pretty  strong.  A  conver 
sation  took  place  among  us,  and  Mr.  Poops,  formerly  aid-de 
camp  to  General  Dickinson,  and  at  present  a  rich  landholder 
in  the  Jerseys,  having  learnt  that  I  was  going  to  Bethlehem,* 
or  imagining  so  from  the  questions  I  asked  about  the  roads, 
very  obligingly  invited  me  to  come  the  next  day  and  sleep  at 
his  house.  His  house  is  on  the  banks  of  the  Delaware,  twenty- 
six  miles  from  Sussex,  thirteen  from  Easton,  and  twenty-four 
from  Bethlehem.  At  first  I  had  some  difficulty  in  accepting 
his  offer,  from  the  apprehension  one  naturally  has  of  being 
straitened  oneself,  or  of  straitening  others.  He  insisted,  how 
ever,  so  strongly,  and  assured  me  so  often  that  I  should  find  no 
inn,  that  I  partly  promised  to  lie  at  his  house  the  following 
night.  These  gentlemen,  and  he  in  particular,  gave  me  every 
necessary  information ;  and,  as  I  was  desirous  of  seeing  Mora 
vian  Mill,f  a  village  situated  near  Easton,  four  miles  above 
Sussex,  he  directed  me  to  Mr.  Calver,  who  keeps  a  sort  of  an 
inn  there.  The  company  went  away,  and  we  passed  a  very 
agreeable  evening  by  a  good  fire,  hugging  ourselves  at  not  be 
ing  exposed  to  the  severe  cold  we  experienced  on  stirring  out 
of  the  house.  We  were  also  well  content  with  our  landlord, 
Mr.  Willis,  who  seemed  to  be  a  gallant  man,  and  very  conver- 
sible.  He  was  born  at  Elizabethtown,  but  has  been  sixteen 
years  settled  at  Sussex.  Thus  does  population  advance  into 
the  interior  parts,  and  go  in  search  of  new  countries. 

I  set  out  the  8th  a  little  before  nine,  the  weather  being  ex 
tremely  cold,  and  the  roads  covered  with  snow  and  ice  ;  but 
on  quitting  the  Ridge,  and  turning  towards  the  west,  by  de 
scending  from  the  high  mountains  to  lower  ground,  we  found 
the  temperature  more  mild,  and  the  earth  entirely  free.  We 


*  Bethlehem  is  a  sort  of  colony  founded  by  the  Moravian  brethren, 
frequently  called  Hcrrenhuter.  It  was  to  see  this  establishment,  and 
the  town  of  Easton  and  the  Upper  Delaware  that  I  quitted  the  ordi 
nary  route,  which  leads  from  New- Windsor  to  Philadelphia. 

t  This  is  a  property  they  have  purchased  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Bethlehem. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

arrived  at  half  past  eleven  at  the  Moravian  Mill,  and,  on  stop 
ping  at  Mr.  Calver's,  found  that  Mr.  Poops  had  announced  our 
coming,  and  that  breakfast  was  prepared  for  us.*  This  fresh 
attention  on  his  part,  encouraged  me  to  accept  his  offer  for  the 
evening.  As  soon  as  we  had  breakfasted,  Mr.  Calver,  who  had 
treated  us  with  an  anxiety  and  respect,  more  German  than 
American,  served  us  by  way  of  conductor,  and  led  us  first  -to 
see  the  saw-mill,  which  is  the  most  beautiful,  and  the  best  con 
trived  I  ever  saw.  A  single  man  only  is  necessary  to  direct 
the  work,  the  same  wheels  which  keep  the  saw  in  motion,  serve 
also  to  convey  the  trunks  of  trees  from  the  spot  where  they  are 
deposited  to  the  workhouse,  a  distance  of  twenty-five  or  thirty 
toises ;  they  are  placed  on  a  sledge,  which  sliding  on  a  groove, 
is  drawn  by  a  rope  which  rolls  and  unrolls  on  the  axis  of  the 
wheel  itself.  Planks  are  sold  at  six  shillings,  Pennsylvania  cur 
rency  (about  three  shillings  and  four-pence  sterling)  the  hun 
dred  ;  if  you  find  the  wood,  it  is  only  half  the  money,  and  the 
plank  in  that  case  is  sawed  for  one  farthing  per  foot.f  This 

*  The  Moravian  sect  is  pretty  generally  known  in  Europe.     They 
are  the  followers  of  the  famous  Count  Zinzendorjf,*  whose  picture  they 
have  at  Bethlehem  ;  they  have  several  establishments  in  Europe,  simi 
lar  to  those  the  Marquis  is  about  to  speak  of,  one  of  which  I  have  seen 
at  Ziest,  near  Utrecht,  where  Louis  the  XlVth  took  up  his  quarters, 
but  America  seems  to  be  the  promised  land  of  sectaries.     Even  the 
despised,  ill-treated  Jews,  are  well  received  in  the  United  States,  and 
begin  to  be  very  numerous  ;  many  of  them  were  excellent  citizens  du 
ring  the  severe  trial  of  the  war,  and  some  even  lost  their  lives  as  sol 
diers,  gallantly  righting  for  the  liberties  of  their  country.     One  family, 
in  particular,  I  believe  of  the  name  of  Salvador,  at  Rhode-Island,  was 
most  eminently  distinguished.     What  a  glorious  field  is  this  for  unpre 
judiced  philanthrophic  speculation  ! — Trans. 

t  It  is  remarked,  that  on  the  lands  within  reach  of  the  Moravian 
settlements,  the  cultivation  is  superior,  and  every  branch  of  husbandry 

*  The  following  account  of  the  Moravians  is  taken  from  a  translation  Irona  the 
German,  of  an  account  of  that  body,  by  the  Reverend  B.  La  Trobe. — •'  The  sect 
of  the  Unitas  fratrum,  more  commonly  known  by  the  names  of  Herrenhuters  and 
Moravians,  was  at  first  formed  by  Nicholas  Lewis,  Count  of  Zinzendorff,  at  Bar- 
theldorf  in  Upper  Lusatia,  in  the  year  1722.     Finding  his  followers  increase,  par 
ticularly  from  Moravia,  he  built  a  house  in  a  wood  near  Bartheldorf  for  their  pub 
lic  meetings  :  and,  before  the  end  of  the  year  1732,  this  place  grew  into  a  village, 
which  was  called  Herrenhuth,  and  contained  about  six  hundred  inhabitants,  all  of 
them  following  Zinzendorff,  and  leading  a  kind  of  monastic  life.     From  this  time 
the  sect  has  spread  its  branches  from  Germany,  through  all  the  Protestant  states  hi 
Europe,  made  considerable  establishments  on  the  continent  of  America,  and  West 
ern  Isles,  and  extended  itself  to  the  East-Indies,  and  into  Africa.     In  England, 
Moravian  congregations  are  formed  at  London,  Bedford,  Oakbrook  near  Derby, 
Pudsey  near  Leeds,  Dunkerfield  in  Cheshire,  Leominster,  Haverford  West,  Bris 
tol,  Kingswood,  Bath,  and  Tetherton."     Their  settlements  are  becoming  very  nu 
merous  too,  but  not  their  population,  in  all  the  different  states  in  the  American 
union. — Trans. 


344  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

mill  is  near  the  fall  of  a  lake  which  furnishes  it  with  water.  A 
deep  cut  is  made  in  a  rock  to  form  a  canal  for  conducting  the 
waters  to  the  corn-mill,  which  is  built  within  musket-shot  of  the 
former;  it  is  very  handsome,  and  on  the  same  plan  with  that 
of  Mrs.  Bowling  at  Petersburgh,  but  not  so  large.  From  the 
mill  I  went  to  the  church,  which  is  a  square  building,  contain 
ing  the  house  of  the  minister.  The  place  where  the  duty  is 
performed,  and  which  may  properly  be  called  the  church,  is  on 
the  first  floor,  and  resembles  the  Presbyterian  meeting-  houses, 
with  this  difference,  that  there  is  an  organ  and  some  religious 
pictures.*  This  house  of  prayer,  so  singularly  placed,  remind 
ed  me  of  a  story  I  heard  at  Boston.  Divine  service  was  for 
merly  celebrated  there  in  one  of  their  places  of  worship,  where 
the  faithful  were  not  assembled,  it  is  true,  on  the  first  floor,  but 
which,  like  this,  contained  the  minister's  house,  below  which 


is  better  carried  on,  first,  from  the  emulation  excited  by  these  industri 
ous  people,  and  secondly,  from  the  supply  the  countryman  procures 
from  them  of  every  necessary  implement  of  husbandry.  &c.  fabricated 
in  these  settlements.  Besides  those  the  Marquis  speaks  of,  1  visited 
some  others,  not  far  from  Bethlehem,  at  one  of  which,  called  Naza 
reth,  is  a  famous  gunsmith,  from  whom  my  friend  Major  Pierce  Butler, 
bought  a  pair  of  pistols,  many  of  which  I  saw  there  of  the  most  per 
fect  workmanship.  Nothing  can  be  more  enchanting  than  these  esta 
blishments  ;  out  of  the  sequestered  wilderness  they  have  formed  well 
built  towns,  vast  edifices  all  of  stone,  large  orchards,  beautiful  and  re 
gular  shaded  walks  in  the  European  fashion,  and  seem  to  combine  with 
the  most  complete  separation  from  the  world,  all  the  comforts  and  even 
many  of  the  luxuries  of  polished  life.  At  one  of  their  cleared-out  set 
tlements,  in  the  midst  of  a  forest  between  Bethlehem  and  Nazareth, 
possessing  all  the  advantages  of  mills  and  manufactures,  I  was  astonish 
ed  with  the  delicious. sounds  of  an  Italian  concerto,  but  my  surprise  was 
still  greater  on  entering  a  room  where  the  performers  turned  out  to  be 
common  workmen  of  different  trades,  playing  for  their  amusement. 
At  each  of  these  places,  the  brethren  have  a  common  room,  where  vio 
lins  and  other  instruments  are  suspended,  and  always  at  the  service  of 
such  as  choose  to  relax  themselves,  by  playing  singly,  or  taking  a  part 
in  a  concert. — Trans. 

*  The  Moravians  appear  to  me  to  be  a  sect  between  the  Methodists 
and  the  Catholics  ;  at  Nazareth,  I  met  with  an  old  Gloucestershire 
man,  who  came  to  America  with  the  late  Mr.  Whitfield,  with  whom  I 
had  much  conversation,  and  who  told  me  that  that  gentleman  was 
much  respected,  both  living  and  dead,  by  the  Moravians  ;  but,  indeed, 
besides  that,  their  hymns  resemble  much  those  of  our  Methodists,  by 
spiritualizing  even  the  grossest  carnal  transactions  ;  I  found  that  they 
all  spoke  of  him  as  one  of  their  own  sect,  but  utterly  disclaimed  Mr. 
Wesley.  They  are  very  fond  of  pictures  representing  the  passion,  to 
which  they  pay  a  respect  little  short,  if  at  all,  of  idolatry.  Their  car- 


TRAVELS  UN"  NORTH-AMERICA.  345 

were  cellars.  The  pastor,  a  very  learned  man  in  other  respects, 
besides  his  spiritual  functions,  carried  on  a  trade  in  wine ;  that 
is  to  say,  a  great  deal  of  it  went  out  of  his  cellar,  but  not  a 
drop  ever  entered  it.  A  simple  negro  servant  he  had,  used  to 
say,  that  his  master  was  a  great  saint,  for  that  he  employed 
him  every  year  in  rolling  into  his  cellar  a  number  of  casks  of 
cider,  over  which,  when  he  had  preached  and  prayed  a  few 
Sundays,  they  were  converted  into  wine. 

On  coming  out  of  church  I  perceived  Mr.  Poops,  who  had 
taken  the  trouble  to  come  and  meet  me.  We  mounted  on 
horse  back  together,  and  after  passing  through  a  tolerably  fertile 
valley,  in  which  are  some  beautiful  farms,  chiefly  Dutch,  and 
well  cultivated  fields,  we  arrived  in  the  evening  at  his  house. 
It  is  a  charming  settlement,  consisting  of  a  thousand  acres  of 
land,  the  greatest  part  of  which  is  in  tillage,  with  a  fine  corn- 
mill,  a  saw-mill,  and  distillery.  The  manor  house  is  small,  but, 
neat  and  handsome.  He  conducted  us  into  a  parlour,  where 
we  found  Mrs.  Poops  his  wife,  Mrs.  Scotland  his  mother-in- 
law,  and  Mr.  Scotland  his  brother-in-law.  Mrs.  Poops  has  a 
pleasing  countenance,  somewhat  injured  by  habitual  bad  health, 
her  behaviour  is  that  of  an  accomplished  woman,  and  her  con 
versation  amiable.  The  evening  was  spent  very  agreeably, 
partly  in  conversation,  and  partly  at  play.  I  had  some  con 
versation  also  with  Mr.  Scotland,  a  young  man  who  though 
but  six  and  twenty,  has  made  three  campaigns,  as  Captain  of 
artillery,  and  is  now  a  lawyer  of  great  practice.  I  have  al 
ready  observed  that  this  is  the  most  respectable,  and  most  lu 
crative  profession  in  America.  He  told  me  that  he  usually  re 
ceived,  for  a  simple  consultation,  four  dollars,  and  sometimes 
haJfa  joe;  (thirty-sij:  shillings  sterling)  and  when  the  action 
is  commenced,  so  much  is  paid  for  every  writ,  and  every  deed, 
for  in  America  lawyers  act  likewise  in  the  capacity  of  notaries 
and  attornies.  I  had  much  pleasure  in  conversing  with  Mr. 
Poops,  who  is  a  man  of  good  education,  well  informed,  and  ac 
tive,  and  concerned  in  a  variety  of  business,  which  he  conducts 


nal  allusions  are  fully  verified  in  the  following  hymn  taken  from  one  of 
their  books  in  the  Moravian  chapel  at  Pudsey  in  Enaland,  in  1773,  an 
allusion  than  which  nothing  can  be  more  infamous  and  shocking. 

"  And  she  so  blessed  is, 

She  gives  him  many  a  kiss  : 

Fix'd  are  her  eyes  on  him  ; 

Thence  moves  her  every  limb  ; 
.     And  since  she  him  so  loves, 

She  only  with  him  moves  : 

His  matters  and  his  blood 

Appear  her  only  good." — Trans. 
44 


346  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA. 

with  great  intelligence.  He  had  been  employed  in  the  com 
missary's  department  when  General  Green*  was  Quarter-Mas 
ter-General,  and  made  extraordinary  exertions  to  supply  the 
;irmy,  which  rendered  him  so  obnoxious  to  the  tories,  that  he 
was  for  a  long  time  obliged  to  remain  armed  in  his  house,  which 
he  bairicaded  every  night.  The  supper  was  as  agreeable  as 
the  preceding  part  of  the  evening  ;  the  ladies  retired  at  eleven, 
und  we  remained  at  table  till  midnight.  Mr.  Poops'  brother 
arrived  as  we  were  at  the  desert  ;  he  appeared  to  me  a  sensi 
ble  man,  he  had  married  in  Virginia  the  daughter  of  Colonel 
Fims,  who  had  espoused  one  of  his  sisters.  He  was  now  a 
widower. 

The  next  day,  the  10th  of  December,  we  breakfasted  with 
the  ladies,  and  set  out  at  half  past  ten  ;  Mr.  Poops  accompa 
nying  me  to  Easton,  where  he  had  sent  to  prepare  dinner.  I 
should  have  preferred  my  usual  custom  of  making  my  repast 
at  the  end  of  my  day's  journey,  but  it  was  necessary  for  a  little 
complaisance  to  return  the  civilities  I  had  received.  Two 
miles  from  the  house  of  Mr.  Poops,  we  forded  a  small  river,  and 
travelled  through  an  agreeable  and  well  cultivated  country. 
Some  miles  before  we  came  to  Easton,  we  passed  over  a  height 
from  whence  one  discovers  a  vast  tract  of  country,  and  among 
others,  a  chain  of  mountains  which  Mr.  Poops  desired  us  to  re 
mark.  It  forms  a  part  of  that  great  chain  which  traverses  all 
America  from  south  to  north. f  He  pointed  out  to  us  two  hia 
tus,  or  openings,  resembling  two  large  doors  or  windows, 
through  one  of  which  flows  the  river  Delaware  ;  the  other  is  a 
gap  leading  to  the  other  side  of  the  mountains,  and  is  the  road 
to  Wyoming,  a  pass  become  celebrated  by  the  march  of  Gene 
ral  Sullivan  in  1779.J  Before  we  got  to^Easton,  we  passed  in 


*  The  Gazettes  have  just  announced  the  death  of  General  Green. 
In  him  America  has  lost  one  of  her  best  citizens,  and  most  able  sol 
diers.  It  is  his  greatest  eulogium  to  say,  that  he  stood  high  with  Gene 
ral  Washington,  who  recommended  him  to  Congress,  and  that  he 
amply  justified  the  opinion  entertained  of  him  by  that  great,  good  man. 
— Trans. 

t  These  are  called  the  Kittatinny  mountains.  For  an  account  of 
this  hiatus,  or  gap,  see  Mr.  Charles  Thompson's  Observations  on  Mr. 
Jefferson's  Notes  on  Virginia,  under  the  account  of  the  National 
Bridge. —  Trans. 

|  See  the  first  part  of  this  Journal,  where  the  author  gives  an  ac 
count  of  his  conversations  with  General  Schuyler.  In  whatever  man 
ner  this  expedition  was  set  on  foot,  which  took  place  in  1779,  after  the 
evacuation  of  Philadelphia,  and  the  diversion  made  by  d'Estaing's 
squadron,  the  greatest  difficulty  to  surmount  was,  the  long  march  to  be 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  347 

ferry  boats,  the  eastern  branch  of  the  Delaware  ;  for  this  town 
is  situated  on  the  fork  formed  by  the  two  branches  of  that  river. 
It  is  a  handsome  though  inconsiderable  town,  but  which  will 
probably  enlarge  itself  on  a  peace,  when  the  Americans  no 
longer  under  apprehensions  from  the  savages,  shall  cultivate 
anew  the  fertile  lands  between  the  Susquehannah  and  the  De 
laware.  Mr.  Poops  took  us  to  the  tavern  of  Mr.  Smith,  who  is 
at  once  an  innkeeper  arid  lawyer.  He  has  a  handsome  library, 
and  his  son,  whom  Mr.  Poops  presented  to  me  on  my  arrival, 
appeared  to  be  a  well  educated  and  well  informed  young  man. 
I  invited  him  to  dinner,  as  well  as  another  youth  who  boarded 
with  him,  a  native  of  Dominica,  who  had  come  to  complete  his 
studies  among  the  Americans,  to  whom  he  seemed  much  more 
attached  than  to  the  English.  He  had  made  choice  of  Easton 
as  more  healthy,  and  more  peaceable  than  the  other  towns  of 
America,  and  found  all  the  necessary  instruction  in  the  lessons 
and  the  books  of  Mr.  Smith.  As  they  knew  of  my  coming,  we 
did  not  wait  long  for  dinner,  and  at  half  past  three  we  got  on 
horseback,  Mr.  Poops  being  still  so  good  as  to  accompany  me 
a  mile  or  two,  to  obtain  my  permission  for  which,  he  pretend 
ed  that  there  was  a  cross  road  where  I  might  lose  myself.  At 
length  we  parted,  leaving  me  penetrated  with  gratitude  for  his 
numerous  civilities.  Before  I  lost  sight  of  Eastow  I  stopped 


made  through  woods,  deserts,  and  morasses,  conveying  all  their  pro 
visions  on  beasts  of  burthen,  and  being  continually  exposed  to  the 
attacks  of  the  savages.  The  instructions  given  by  General  Sullivan  to 
his  officers,  the  order  of  march  he  prescribed  to  the  troops,  and  the 
discipline  he  had  the  ability  to  maintain,  would  have  done  honour  to 
the  most  experienced  among  ancient  or  modern  Generals.  It  may 
safely  be  asserted,  that  the  Journal  of  this  expedition  would  lose  no 
thing  in  a  comparison  with  the  famous  retreat  of  the  ten  thousand, 
which  it  would  resemble  very  much,  if  we  could  compare  the  rnanceu- 
vres,  the  object  of  which  is  attack,  with  those  which  have  no  other 
than  the  preservation  of  a  forlorn  army.  General  Sullivan,  after  a 
month's  march,  arrived  without  any  check,  at  the  entrenched  camp, 
the  last  refuge  of  the  savages  ;  here  he  attacked  them,  and  was  recei 
ved  with  great  courage,  insomuch  that  the  victory  would  have  remain 
ed  undecided,  had  not  the  Indians  lost  many  of  their  Chiefs  in  battle, 
which  never  fails  to  intimidate  them,  and  retreated  during  the  night. 
The  General  destroyed  their  houses  and  plantations,  since  which  they 
have  never  shown  themselves  in  a  body.  However  slight  and  insuffi 
cient  the  idea  may  be  that  I  have  given  of  this  campaign,  it  may,  ne 
vertheless,  astonish  our  European  military  men,  to  learn  that  General 
Sullivan  was  only  a  lawyer  in  1775,  and  that  in  the  year  1780  he  quit 
ted  the  army  to  resume  his  profession,  and  is  now  civil  Governor  of 
New-Hampshire. 


348  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

upon  a  hill,  from  whence  I  admired,  for  some  time,  the  pictu 
resque  coup  d'ceil  presented  by  the  two  branches  of  the  Dela 
ware,*  and  the  confused  and  whimsical  form  of  the  mountains, 
through  which  they  pursue  their  course.  When  I  was  satisfi 
ed  with  the  spectacle,  it  was  necessary  to  push  forward  to  reach 
Bethlehem  before  night,  and  we  travelled  the  eleven  miles  in 
two  hours,  but  not  before  the  day  was  closed. f  We  had  no 
difficulty  in  finding  the  tavern,  for  it  is  precisely  at  the  entrance 
of  the  town. 

This  tavern  was  built  at  the  expense  of  the  Society  of  Mo 
ravian  Brethren,  to  whom  it  served  formerly  as  a  magazine,  and 
is  very  handsome  and  spacious.^  The  person  who  keeps  it  is 


*  In  travelling  over  this  hill,  the  Translator  stopped  near  an  hour  to 
view  this  noble  and  enchanting  prospect,  with  which  it  is  impossible  to 
satiate  the  eye.  Nothing  can  be  more  delightful  than  the  town  and 
neighbourhood  of  Easton. — Trans. 

t  The  first  time  I  visited  Bethlehem  was  from  Philadelphia,  and  after 
travelling^two  days  through  a  country  alternately  diversified  with  sa 
vage  scenes  and  cultivated  spots,  on  issuing  out  of  the  woods  at  the 
close  of  the  evening,  in  the  month  of  May,  found  myself  on  a  beautiful 
extensive  plain,  with  the  vast  eastern  branch  of  the  Delaware  on  the 
right,  richly  interspersed  with  wooded  islands,  and  at  the  distance  of  a 
mile  in  the  front  of  the  town  of  Bethlehem,  rearing  its  large  stone  edi 
fices  out  of  a  forest,  situated  on  a  majestic,  but  gradually  rising  emi 
nence,  the  back  ground  formed  by  the  setting  sun.  So  novel  and  un 
expected  a  transition  filled  the  mind  with  a  thousand  singular  and  sub 
lime  ideas,  and  made  an  impression  on  me,  never  to  be  effaced.  The 
romantic  and  picturesque  effect  of  this  glorious  display  of  natural  beau 
ties,  gave  way  to  the  still  more  noble  and  interesting  sensations,  arising 
from  a  reflection  on  the  progress  of  the  arts  and  sciences,  and  the  sub 
lime  anticipation  of  the  "  populous  cities,"  and  "  busy  hum  of  men," 
which  are  one  day  to  occupy,  and  to  civilize  the  vast  wildernesses  of 
the  new  world. — Trans. 

|  This  inn,  for  its  external  appearance,  and  its  interior  accommo 
dations,  is  not  inferior  to  the  best  of  the  large  inns  in  England,  which, 
indeed,  it  very  much  resembles  in  every  respect.  The  first  time  I  was 
at  Bethlehem,  in  company  with  my  friends  Major  Pierce  Butler,  Mr. 
Thomas  Elliot,  and  Mr.  Charles  Pinkney,  Carolina  gentlemen,  we  re 
mained  here  two  or  three  days,  and  were  constantly  supplied  with  ve 
nison,  moor  game,  the  most  delicious  red  and  yellow  bellied  trout,  the 
highest  flavoured  wild  strawberries,  the  most  luxuriant  asparagus,  and 
the  best  vegetables,  in  short,  I  ever  saw  ;  and  notwithstanding  the  diffi 
culty  of  procuring  good  wine  and  spirits  at  that  period,  throughout 
the  continent,  we  were  here  regaled  with  rum  and  brandy  of  the  best 
quality,  and  exquisite  old  Port  and  Madeira.  It  was  to  this  house 
that  the  Marquis  de  la  Fayette  retired,  to  be  cured  of  the  first  wound 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  349 

only  the  cashier,  and  is  obliged  to  render  an  account  to  the  ad 
ministrators.  As  we  had  already  dined,  we  only  drank  tea, 
but  ordered  a  breakfast  for  the  next  morning  at  ten  o'clock. 
The  landlord  telling  me  there  was  a  growse,  or  heath  bird,  in 
the  house,  I  made  him  bring  it,  for  I  had  long  had  a  great  de 
sire  to  see  one.  I  soon  observed  that  it  was  neither  the  Poule 
de  Pharaon,  nor  the  heath  cock  ;  it  was  about  the  size  of  a 
pheasant,  but  had  a  short  tail,  and  the  head  of  a  capon,  which 
it  resembles  also  in  the  form  of  its  body,  and  its  feet  were  co 
vered  with  down.  This  bird  is  remarkable  for  two  large  trans 
verse  feathers  below  his  head  :  the  plumage  of  his  belly  is  a 
mixture  of  black  and  white,  the  colour  of  his  wings  of  a  red 
grey,  like  our  grey  partridges.  When  the  growse  is  roasted, 
his  flesh  is  black  like  that  of  a  heath  cock,  but  it  is  more  de 
licate,  and  has  a  higher  flavour.* 

I  could  not  derive  much  information  from  my  landlord  on  the 
origin,  the  opinions,  and  manners  of  the  society,  but  he  inform 
ed  me  that  I  should  next  day  see  the  ministers  and  administra 
tors,  who  would  gratify  my  curiosity,  The  llth,  at  half  past 
eight,  I  walked  out  with  a  Moravian,  given  me  by  the  landlord, 
but  who  was  likewise  ill  informed,  and  only  served  me  as  a 

fuide.f     He  was  a  seaman,  who  imagines  he  has  some  talents 
3r  drawing,  and  amuses  himself  with  teaching  the  young  peo- 


he  received  in  fighting  for  America  ;  an  accident,  which  I  am  well  as 
sured  gave  this  gallant  young  nobleman  more  pleasure  than  most  of 
our  European  petits  maitres  would  receive  from  the  most  flattering 
proofs  of  the  favour  of  a  mistress.  Mr.  Charles  Pinkney,  whom  I 
have  above  mentioned,  is  a  young  gentleman  at  present  in  Congress 
for  South  Carolina,  and  who,  from  the  intimate  knowledge  I  have  of 
his  excellent  education  and  strong  talents,  will,  I  venture  to  predict, 
whenever  he  pleases  to  exert  them,  stand  forth  among  the  most  emi 
nent  citizens  of  the  new  confederation  of  Republics.  It  is  my  boast 
and  pride  to  have  co-operated  with  him,  when  he  was  only  at  the  age 
of  twenty,  in  the  defence  of  the  true  principles  of  liberty,  and  to  have 
seen  productions  from  his  pen,  which,  in  point  of  composition,  and  of 
argument,  would  have  done  honour  to  the  head  and  heart  of  the  most 
experienced  and  most  virtuous  politician.  Should  the  present  work 
ever  fall  into  his  hands,  let  him  recognize  in  this  just  tribute  to  his 
worth,  an  affectionate  friend,  who,  knowing  his  abilities,  wishes  to  ex 
cite  him  to  exertion,  in  the  noble,  but  arduous  field  before  him. — 
Trans, 

*  This  bird  must  be  what  we  call  the  black  or  grey  game,  and  not 
what  is  known  by  the  name  of  growse  in  England. — Trans. 

I  Our  company  was  much  more  fortunate,  Major  Butler  having  ob 
tained  letters  from  Philadelphia  to  Mr.  Van  Vleck,  a  man  of  property, 
living  here,  but  formerly  of  New- York. — Trans. 


350  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

le,  having  quitted  the  sea  since  the  war,  where,  however,  he 
ad  no  scruple  in  sending  his  son.*  He  subsists  on  a  small  es 
tate  he  has  at  Reading,  but  lives  at  Bethlehem,  where  he  and 
his  wife  board  in  a  private  family.  We  went  first  to  visit  the 
house  for  single  women.  This  edifice  is  spacious,  and  built  with 
stone.  It  is  divided  into  several  large  chambers,  all  heated 
with  stoves,  in  which  the  girls  work,  some  coarse  work,  such 
as  spinning  cotton,  hemp,  and  wool,  others  works  of  taste  and 
luxury,  such  as  embroidery,  either  in  thread,  or  silk,  and  they 
excel  particularly  in  working  ruffles,  little  pocket-books,  pin 
cushions,  &c.  like  our  French  nuns.  The  superintendent  of  the 
house  came  to  receive  us.  She  is  a  woman  of  family,  born  in 
Saxony  ;  her  name  is  Madame  de  Gastorff ;  but  she  does  not 
presume  upon  her  birth,  and  appeared  surprised  at  my  giving 
her  my  hand,  as  often  as  we  went  up  and  down  stairs.f  She 
conducted  us  to  the  first  floor,  where  she  made  us  enter  a  large 
vaulted  apartment,  kept  perfectly  clean,  in  which  all  the  wo 
men  sleep,  each  having  a  bed  apart,  in  which  is  plenty  of  fea 
thers. J  There  is  never  any  fire  in  this  room,  and  though  it  be 
very  high  and  airy  ;  a  ventilator  is  fixed  in  the  roof  like  those 
in  our  play-houses  The  kitchen  is  not  large,  but  it  is  clean, 
and  well  arranged  ;  in  it  there  are  immense  earthen  pots,  upon 
furnaces,  as  in  our  hospitals.  The  inhabitants  of  the  house 
dine  in  the  refectory,  and  are  served  every  day  with  meat  and 

*  It  is  remarkable  enough,  that  the  son  of  this  Moravian,  whose 
name  is  Garrison,  should  have  served  on  board  a  vessel  with  me,  and 
was,  without  exception,  the  most  worthless  profligate  fellow  we  had  in 
a  mixed  crew  of  English,  Scotch,  Irish,  and  Americans,  to  all  of  whom 
his  education  had  been  infinitely  superior.  Neither  bolts  nor  bars 
could  prevent,  nor  any  chastisement  correct,  his  pilfering  disposition. 
In  a  long  winter's  voyage  of  thirteen  weeks,  with  only  provisions  and 
water  for  five,  this  fellow  was  the  bane  and  pest  of  officers,  passen 
gers,  and  seamen.  Whilst  every  other  man  in  the  ship,  even  the  most 
licentious  in  prosperity,  submitted  to  regulations  laid  down  to  alleviate 
our  dreadful  sufferings,  and  preserve  our  lives,  this  hardened,  unre 
flecting  wretch,  ignorant  of  every  feeling  of  sympathy  and  human  na 
ture,  seemed  to  take  a  savage  delight  in  diffusing  misery  around  him, 
and  adding  to  the  distresses  of  his  fellow  sufferers.  He  had  been  well 
educated  in  the  humane  principles  of  the  Moravians,  but  he  truly  veri 
fied  the  just  adage  of  Corruptio  optimi  pessima.— Trans. 

t  When  the  Translator  visited  Bethlehem,  the  superintendent,  or  at 
least  her  deputy,  was  a  Mrs.  Langley,  a  very  mild  pretty  behaved  Eng 
lish  woman,  who  had  been  a  follower  of  George  Whitfield. — Trans. 

|  The  Americans  in  general  are  remarkably  fond  of  very  large  soft 
feather  beds,  even  in  the  hottest  climates,  and  we  suffered  greatly  in 
this  particular,  at  the  inn  at  Bethlehem. —  Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  351 

vegetables ;  they  have  three  shillings  and  sixpence  currency 
per  week,  about  fourpence  per  day,  to  the  common  stock,  but 
they  have  no  supper,  and  I  believe  the  house  furnishes  only 
bread  for  breakfast.  This  expense,  and  what  they  pay  for  fire, 
and  candle  deducted,  they  enjoy  the  produce  of  their  labour, 
which  is  more  than  sufficient  to  maintain  them.  This  house 
also  has  a  chapel,  which  serves  only  for  evening  prayer,  for 
they  go  to  their  church  on  Sundays.  There  is  an  organ  in  this 
chapel,  and  I  saw  several  instruments  suspended  upon  nails. 
We  quitted  Madame  de  Gastorff  well  pleased  with  her  recep 
tion,  and  went  to  the  church,  which  is  simple,  and  differs  little 
from  that  we  had  seen  at  Moravian  mill.  Here  also  are  several 
religious  pictures.  From  hence  we  went  to  the  house  of  the 
single  men.  I  entered  the  intendant's  apartment,  whom  I  found 
employed  in  copying  music.  He  had  in  his  room  an  indiffer 
ent  forte  piano ,  made  in  Germany.  I  talked  with  him  on  mu 
sic,  and  discovered  that  he  was  not  only  a  performer,  but  a 
composer.  So  that  on  his  accompanying  us  to  the  chapel,  and 
being  asked  to  touch  the  organ,  he  played  some  voluntaries,  in 
which  he  introduced  a  great  deal  of  harmony,  and  progressions 
of  base.  This  man,  whose  name  I  have  forgot,  is  a  native  of 
New- York,  but  resided  seven  years  in  Germany,  whence  he 
had  lately  arrived.  I  found  him  better  informed  than  those  I 
had  yet  met  with,  yet  it  was  with  some  difficulty  that  I  got  from 
him  the  following  details :  The  Moravian  brethren,  in  what 
ever  quarter  of  the  world  they  live,  are  under  the  discipline  of 
their  metropolitans,  who  reside  in  Germany,*  from  whence 
commissaries  are  sent  to  regulate  the  different  establishments, 
The  same  metropolitans  advance  the  sums  necessary  for  form 
ing  them,  which  are  paid  in  proportion  as  these  colonies  pros 
per  ;  thus  the  revenue  of  the  mills  I  have  spoken  of,  as  well  as 
the  farms  and  manufactures  of  Bethlehem,  are  employed  in  the 
first  instance  to  pay  the  expenses  of  the  community,  and  after 
wards  to  reimburse  the  sums  advanced  in  Europe.  Bethle 
hem,  for  example,  possesses  a  territorial  property,  purchased 
by  the  Moravians  in  Europe,  which  consists  of  fifteen  hundred 
acres  of  land,  forming  a  vast  farm,  which  is  managed  by  a 
steward,  who  accounts  for  it  to  the  community.  If  an  indivi 
dual  wants  a  lot  of  land,  he  must  purchase  it  of  the  public, 
but  under  this  restriction,  that  in  case  of  defection  from  the 


*  The  Moravians  maintain  a  constant  intercourse  with  Germany  in 
particular,  of  which  country  those  in  America  are  chiefly  natives,  and 
think  nothing  of  a  voyage  to  Europe.  Governor  Joseph  Reed,  of 
Philadelphia,  had  a  son  here,  learning  the  German  language,  when  T 
was  at  Bethlehem.— Trans. 


352  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

sect,  or  emigration  from  the  place,  he  shall  restore  it  to  the 
community,  who  will  reimburse  him  the  original  payment. 
As  to  their  opinions,  this  sect  resembles  more  the  Lutherans, 
than  the  Calvinists  ;  differing,  however,  from  the  latter,  by  ad 
mitting  music,  pictures,  &c.  into  their  churches,  and  from  the 
former,  by  having  no  bishops,  and  being  governed  by  a  Synod.* 
Their  police,  or  discipline,  is  of  the  monastic  kind,  since  they 
recommend  celibacy,  but  without  enjoining  it,  and  keep  the  wo 
men  separate  from  the  men.  There  is  a  particular  house  also, 
for  the  widows,  which  I  did  not  visit.  The  two  sexes  being 
thus  habitually  separated,  none  of  those  familiar  connexions 
exist  between  them,  which  lead  to  marriage ;  nay,  it  is  even 
contrary  to  the  spirit  of  the  sect,  to  marry  from  inclination.  If 
a  young  man  finds  himself  sufficiently  at  his  ease  to  keep 
house  for  himself,  and  maintain  a  wife  and  children,  he  pre 
sents  himself  to  the  commissary,  and  asks  for  a  girl,  who  (after 
consulting  with  the  superintendent  of  the  women)  proposes 
one  to  him,  which  he  may,  in  fact,  refuse  to  accept ;  but  it  is 
contrary  to  the  custom  to  choose  a  wife  for  himself.  Accord 
ingly,  the  Moravian  colonies  have  not  multiplied,  in  any  pro 
portion,  to  the  other  American  colonies.  That  at  Bethlehem 
is  composed  of  about  six  hundred  persons,  more  than  half  of 
whom  live  in  a  state  of  celibacy ;  nor  does  it  appear  that  it 
has  increased  for  several  years.  Every  precaution  is  taken  to 
provide  for  the  subsistence  of  their  brethren,  and  in  the  houses 
destined  for  the  unmarried  of  both  sexes,  there  are  masters 
who  teach  them  different  trades. 

The  house  of  the  single  men  which  I  saw  in  detail,  does  not 
differ  from  that  of  the  women ;  I  shall  only  take  notice  of  a 
very  convenient  method  they  have  of  awakening  those  who 
wish  to  be  called  up  at  any  given  hour ;  all  their  beds  are  num 
bered,  and  near  the  door  is  a  slate,  on  which  all  the  numbers 
are  registered.  A  man  who  wishes  to  be  awakened  early,  at 
five  o'clock  in  the  morning  for  example,  has  only  to  write  a 
figure  of  5  under  his  number ;  the  watchman  who  attends  the 
chamber,  observes  this  in  going  his  rounds,  and  at  the  hour  ap 
pointed,  the  next  morning  goes  straight  to  the  number  of  the 
bed  without  troubling  himself  about  the  name  of  the  sleeper. 

Before  I  left  the  house,  I  mounted  on  the  roof,  where  there 
is  a  Belvidere,  from  whence  you  see  the  little  town  of  Bethle 
hem,  and  the  neighbourhood ;  it  is  composed  of  seventy  or 
eighty  houses,  and  there  are  some  others  belonging  to  the  co- 


*  I  do  not  speak  with  confidence,  but  am  inclined  to  think  that  they 
have  bishops,  at  least  a  person  was  pointed  out  to  us  at  Bethlehem, 
under  that  denomination. — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  353 

lony  at  the  distance  of  a  mile  or  two  ;  they  are  all  handsome 
and  built  with  stone.*  Every  house  has  a  garden  cultivated 
with  care.  In  returning  I  Was  curious  to  see  the  farm-house, 
which  is  kept  in  good  order,  but  the  inside  was  neither  so  clean, 
nor  so  well  kept  as  in  the  English  farm-houses,  because  the 
Moravians  are  still  more  barbarous  than  their  language.  At 
length  at  half  past  ten  I  returned  to  the  inn,  where  I  was  ex 
pected  by  my  moor  fowl^  two  woodhens,  and  many  other  good 
things,  so  that  I  was  still  better  satisfied  with  my  breakfast 
than  with  my  walk.f  At  twelve  we  set  out  to  travel  twenty 
miles  farther,  to  Kalf's  tavern,  a  German  house  very  poor  and 
filthy.  We  had  passed  the  eastern  branch  of  the  Delaware 
a  mile  from  Bethlehem  ;J  there  is  ^neither  town  nor  village  on 
the  road,  but  the  burghs  to  which  the  scattered  houses  we  saw, 
belonged,  are  called  Socconock  and  Springfield.  The  12th  I 
breakfasted  at  Montgomery,'  twelve  miles  from  Kalf  s  tavern, 
and  passing  Whitemarsh  and  Germantown,  we  arrived  towards 
five  at  Philadelphia. 


*  From  this  Belvidere  the  view  is  beautifully  romantic,  and 
other  objects  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Delaware,  you  see  a  cultiva 
ted  farm  formed  out  of  an  immense  wood  and  near  the  summit  of  a 
lofty  mountain,  which  I  likewise  visited,  and  every  step  of  which  gives 
you  the  idea  of  enchanted  ground.  Besides  the  particular  gardens  to 
each  private  house,  there  is  a  large  public  walk  belonging  to  the  com 
munity,  nay,  the  church-yard  itself  is  a  gay  scene  of  beauty  and  regu 
larity,  the  verdant  turf  being  clad  in  summer  with  strawberries  and 
flowers. —  Trans. 

t  Notwithstanding  the  good  cheer  at  the  tavern,  the  author,  and  1 
hope  the  reader,  will  pardon  me  for  not  crediting  this  declaration. — 
Trans. 

|  The  eastern  branch  of  the  Delaware  which  passes  by  Bethlehem, 
and  forms  a  junction  with  the  western  at  Easton,  is  here  called  the 
Lecha.  There  is  an  excellent  ferry  over  this  rapid  stream,  of  which  I 
have  spoken  in  the  first  volume.  The  Moravians  among  an  infinity  of 
other  ingenious  inventions,  have  a  large  hydraulic  machine  in  the  mid 
dle  of  the  town  which  is  at  a  great  height  from  the  river  for  raising 
the  water  to  supply  the  inhabitants. — Trans. 


45 


354  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA, 


Description  of  the  Natural  Bridge,  called  in  Virginia,  Rocky 
Bridge. 

ON  my  return  from  my  journey  in  Upper  Virginia,  I  regretted 
not  having  been  able  to  take  the  dimensions  of  the  Natural 
Bridge.*  I  was  anxious  that  some  person,  who  was  at  once  a 


*  So  interesting  an  object  coukl  not  escape  the  curiosity  and  obser 
vations  of  Mr.  Jefferson.*     He  had  measured  the  height  and  breadth 
of  the  Natural  Bridge,  of  which  he  speaks  in  art  excellent  memoir, 
composed  in  1781,  a  few  copies  of  which  he  printed  under  the  modest 
title  of  Notes  upon  Virginia,  or  rather  without  any  title,  for  this  work 
has  never  been  made  public.     We  hope,  however,  the  precious  docu 
ments  on  natural  philosophy,  as  well  as  politics,  contained  in  that  work, 
will  not  be  lost  to  the  public.     A  well  known  man  of  letters!  has  made 
use  of  them,  and  we  recommend  the  perusal  of  a  work,  which  will 
speedily  make  its  appearance  under  the  title  of  Observations  on  Vir 
ginia. 

*  The  following  is  Mr.  Jefferson's  account  of  the  Natural  Bridge  alluded  to  in 
this  note,  which  I  am  happy  in  being  able  to  lay  before  the  reader  : — "  The  Natural 
Bridge,  the  most  sublime  of  nature's  works,  is  on  the  ascent  of  a  hill,  which  seems 
to  have  been  cloven  through  its  length  by  some  great  convulsion.     The  fissure, 
just  at  the  bridge,  is  by  some  admeasurements  270  feet  deep,  by  others  only  205. 
It  is  about  45  feet  wide  at  the  bottom,  and  90  feet  at  the  top ;  this  of  course  deter 
mines  the  length  of  the  bridge,  and  its  height  from  the  water.     Its  breadth  in  the 
middle  is  about  60  feet,  but  more  at  the  ends,  and  the  thickness  of  the  mass  at  the 
summit  of  the  arch,  about  40  feet.     A  part  of  this  thickness  is  constituted  by  a  coat 
of  earth,  which  gives  growth  to  many  large  trees.     The  residue,  with  the  hill  on 
both  sides,  is  one  solid  rock  of  limestone.     The  arch  approaches  the  semi-elliptical 
form ;  but  the  larger  axis  of  the  ellipses,  which  would  be  the  chord  of  the  arch,  is 
many  times  longer  than  the  transverse.     Though  the  sides  of  the  bridge  are  pro 
vided  in  some  parts  with  a  parapet  of  fixed  rocks,  yet  few  men  have  resolution  to 
walk  to  them,  and  look  over  into  the  abyss.     You  involuntarily  fall  on  your  hands 
and  feet,  creep  to  the  parapet,  and  look  over  it.     Looking  down  from  this  height 
about  a  minute,  gave  me  a  violent  head-ache.     If  the  view  from  the  top  be  painful 
and  intolerable,  that  from  below  is  delightful  in  the  extreme.     It  is  impossible  for 
the  emotions  arising  from  the  sublime  to  be  felt  beyond  what  they  are  here :  on  the 
sight  of  so  beautiful  an  arch,  so  elevated,  so  light,  and  springing  as  it  were  up  to 
heaven,  the  rapture  of  the  spectator  is  really  indescribable  !     The  fissure  rontinu- 
ing  narrow,  deep,  and  strait  for  a  considerable  distance  above  and  below  the  bridge, 
opens  a  short  but  very  pleasing  view  of  the  North  Mountain  on  one  side,  and  Blue 
Ridge  on  the  other,  at  the  distance  each  of  them  of  about  five  miles.     This  bridge 
is  in  the  county  of  Rockbridge,  to  which  it  has  given  name,  and  affords  a  public  and 
commodious  passage  over  a  valley,  wlvch  cannot  be  crossed  elsewhere  for  a  consi 
derable  distance.     The  stream  passing  under  it  is  called  Cedar  creek.     It  is  a  wa 
ter  of  James'  river,  and  sufficient,  in  the  dryest  seasons,  to  turn  a  grist  mill,  though 
its  fountain  is  not  more  than  two  miles  above.'1—  Trans. 

t  Monsieur  De  Meunier,  in  his  new  article  of  Etats  Unis  in  the  last  Livraison 
of  La  Nouvelle  Encyclopedic,  and  the  Abbe  de  Morlaix,  who  is  translating  their 
into  French. — Trans. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  355 

designer  and  geometrician,  should  undertake  an  expedition  to 
the  Apalachians  for  that  sole  object,  and  that  he  should  be  pro 
vided  with  the  instruments  necessary  for  accomplishing  it  with 
accuracy.  No  man  was  more  capable  of  this  than  the  Baron 
de  Turpin,  Captain  in  the  royal  corps  of  Genie ;  for  in  him 
were  united  all  those  branches  of  knowledge,  which  are  carried 
to  so  great  a  height  in  the  corps  to  which  he  belongs,  with  the 
talent  of  designing  with  as  much  facility  as  precision ;  besides 
which,  he  was  well  enough  acquainted  with  the  English  lan 
guage  to  dispense  with  an  interpreter.  I  proposed,  therefore, 
to  the  Comte  de  Rochambeau,  to  charge  him  with  this  commis 
sion,  which  I  was  confident  he  would  acquit  with  pleasure. 
The  general  thought  that  it  would  be  rendering  a  fresh  service 
to  the  Americans,  to  make  them  acquainted  with  one  of  the  won 
ders  which  render  their  country  celebrated,  and  that  itwould  be 
pleasant  enough  for  Frenchmen  to  be  the  first  to  give  them  a 
precise  idea  and  a  correct  plan  of  it.  The  Baron  de  Turpin 
set  out,  therefore,  in  the  beginning  of  May,  and  in  three  weeks 
brought  me  back  five  plans.  Two  of  them  present  perspectives, 
taken  from  the  two  sides  of  the  Natural  Bridge,  and  from  the 
bottom  of  the  valley  from  whence  it  springs.  The  third,  a 
bird's-eye  view,  and  represents  a  part  of  the  country  in  which 
it  is.  The  two  others  being  supposed  sections  of  this  bridge 
where  it  holds  by  the  bank,  and  which  may  be  considered  as  its 
abutment.  As  to  the  dimensions,  they  are  as  follows,  as  given 
me  by  M.  de  Turpin:  . 

"  The  Natural  Bridge  forms  an  arch  of  fifteen  toises  (six  feet 
English)  in  length,  of  that  species  we  denominate  the  cow's 
horn  :  the  chord  of  this  arch  is  seventeen  toises  at  the  head  of 
Amont,  and  nine  at  that  of  Aval,  and  the  right  arch  is  the  seg 
ment  of  an  ellipse,  so  flat  that  the  small  axis  is  only  a  twelfth 
of  the  large  one.  The  mass  of  rock  and  stone  which  loads 
this  arch  is  forty-nine  feet  solid  on  the  key  of  the  great  centre, 
and  thirty-seven  on  that  of  the  small  one  ;  and  as  we  find  about 
the  same  difference  in  taking  the  level  of  the  hill,  it  may  be 
supposed  that  the  roof  is  on  a  level,  the  whole  length  of  the 
key.  It  is  proper  to  observe,  that  the  live  rock  continues  also 
the  whole  thickness  of  the  arch,  and  that  on  the  opposite  side 
it  is  only  twenty-five  feet  wide,  in  its  greatest  breadth,  and  be 
comes  gradually  narrower. 

"  The  whole  arch  seems  to  be  formed  of  one  and  the  same 
stone,  for  the  joints  which  one  remarks  at  the  head  of  Amont, 
are  the  effect  of  lightning,  which  struck  this  part  in  1779;  the 
other  head  has  not  the  smallest  vein,  and  the  iiitrados  is  so 
smooth,  that  the  martins,  which  fly  round  it  in  great  numbers, 
cannot  fasten  on  it.  The  abutments,  which  have  a  gentle 


35G  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

slope,  are  entire ;  and,  without  being  absolute  planes,  have  all 
the  polish  which  a  current  of  water  would  give  to  unhewn  stone 
in  a  certain  time.  The  four  rocks  adjacent  to  the  abutments 
seem  to  be  perfectly  homogeneous,  and  to  have  a  very  trifling 
slope.  The  two  rocks  on  the  right  bank  of  the  rivulet  are  two 
hundred  feet  high  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  the  intrados 
of  the  arch  one  hundred  and  fifty,  and  the  two  rocks  on  the  left 
bank  one  hundred  and  eighty. 

"If  we  consider  this  bridge  simply  as  a  picturesque  object, 
we  are  struck  with  the  majesty  with  which  it  towers  in  the  val 
ley.  The  white  oaks,  which  grow  upon  it,  seem  to  rear  their 
lofty  summits  to  the  clouds  ;  whilst  the  same  trees,  which  bor 
der  on  the  rivulet,  appear  like  shrubs.  As  for  the  naturalist, 
he  must  content  himself  with  such  observations  as  may  guide 
a  more  hardy  philosopher  to  form  some  probable  conjecture  on 
the  origin  of  this  extraordinary  mass. 

"  From  every  part  of  the  arch,  and  of  its  supporters,  cubic 
pieces  of  three  or  four  lines  dimension  were  taken,  and  placed 
successively  in  the  same  aqua  fortis  ;  the  former  were  dissol 
ved  in  less  than  half  an  hour ;  the  others  required  more  time, 
but  this  must  be  attributed  to  the  diminution  of  strength  of  the 
aqua  fortis,  which  lost  its  activity  in  proportion  as  it  became 
saturated. 

"  We  see  that  these  rocks  being  of  a  calcareous  nature,  ex 
clude  every  idea  of  a  volcano,  which  besides  cannot  be  recon 
ciled  with  the  form  of  the  bridge  and  its  adjacent  parts.  If  it 
be  supposed  that  this  astonishing  arch  is  the  effect  of  a  current 
of  water,  we  must  suppose  likewise  that  this  current  has  had 
the  force  to  break  down,  and  carry  to  a  great  distance,  a  mass  of 
5000  cubic  fathoms,  for  there  remains  not  the  slightest  trace  of 
such  an  operation.  The  blocks  found  under  the  arch,  and  a 
little  below  it,  have  their  interior  positions  marked  on  the  col 
lateral  pendants  on  the  side  of  Jlval,  and  are  occasioned  by  no 
other  demolition  than  that  of  the  bridge  itself,  which  is  said 
to  have  been  one-third  wider. 

"  The  excavation  of  eight  or  ten  inches,  formed  in  the  pied 
droit,  or  supporter,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  stream,  under  the 
spring  of  the  arch,  lengthens  it  into  the  form  of  a  crow's  beak. 
This  decay,  and  some  other  parts  which  are  blown  up,  give 
reason  to  presume  that  this  surprising  edifice  will  one  day  be 
come  a  victim  of  that  time  which  has  destroyed  so  many 
others." 

Such  are  the  observations,  the  Baron  de  Turpin  brought 
back  with  him,  and  with  which  he  was  pleased  to  favour  me. 
As  their  accuracy  may  be  relied  on,  perhaps  it  would  be  suffi 
cient  to  transcribe  them  here,  and  leave  the  reader  to  exercise 
his  thoughts  on  the  causes  which  could  produce  this  sort  of 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  357 

prodigy.  This  was  in  fact  the  resolution  I  had  taken,  when, 
abandoned  to  my  own  powers,  of  which  I  was  justly  diffident, 
I  was  writing  at  Williamsburgh,  and  for  myself  alone,  the  jour 
nal  of  my  late  expedition.  A  Spanish  work,  however,  which 
fell  into  my  hands,  confirmed,  me  in  the  opinion  I  at  first  had 
entertained,  that  it  was  to  the  labour  only  of  the  Creator  that 
we  owe  the  magnificent  construction  of  the  Natural  Bridge. 
The  opinion  of  the  Count  de  Buffon,  whom  I  have  since  con 
sulted,  has  left  me  no  doubt  upon  the  subject.  His  sublime 
conceptions  of  the  different  epochs  of  nature  should  have 
been  sufficient  to  put  me  in  the  way  ;  but  the  disciple,  who 
knows  how  to  do  justice  to  himself,  is  timid,  even  in  the  appli 
cation  of  his  master's  principles.  But,  whoever  has  travelled 
in  America,  becomes  a  witness  entitled  to  depose  in  favour  of 
that  genius  whose  oracles  frequently  meet  with  too  many  oppo- 
sers.  If  it  be  necessary  to  justify  what  the  Montesquieus,  the 
Humes,  the  Voltaires  have  said  on  the  fatal  effects  heretofore 
produced  by.  superstition,  by  ignorance,  and  prejudice,  we 
might  still,  in  surveying  Europe,  find  whole  nations  which 
would  present  to  us  the  picture  of  what  we  were  300  years  ago. 
Nations,  which  are,  so  to  speak,  the  contemporaries  of  past 
ages,  and  the  truth  of  historical  facts  would  be  demonstrated 
by  those  to  which  we  ourselves  are  witnesses.  It  is  the  same 
in  America  with  respect  to  the  epoch  of  nature,  and  all  the  do 
cuments  of  natural  history.  In  visiting  this  part  of  the  world, 
you  think  yourself  removed  back  a  whole  epoch  ;  the  lower 
grounds,  the  plains  are  watered  by  such  large  rivers,  and  inter 
sected  by  so  many  creeks  ;  the  coasts  are  so  frequently  divi 
ded  by  gulfs,  and  arms  of  the  sea,  which  seem  to  conduct  the 
waves  to  the  very  heart  of  the  country,  and  to  the  very  foot  of 
the  mountains,  that  it  is  impossible  not  to  be  persuaded  that  all 
this  part  of  the  continent  is  not  of  new  creation,  and  produ 
ced  entirely  by  successive  ebbings  of  the  water.  On  the  other 
hand,  if  we  observe  that  all  the  liigh  mountains  form  long 
chains  parallel  with  each  other,  and  almost  in  a  direction 
north  and  south  ;  that  the  greatest  part  of  the  rivers,  which 
fall  into  the  ocean,  take  their  origin  in  the  narrow  vallies 
which  separate  these  mountains,  and  that  after  following  their 
direction  for  a  considerable  space,  they  turn  suddenly  towards 
the  east,  pierce  the  mountains,  and  at  length  reach  the  sea,  ac 
quiring  magnitude  as  they  proceed ;  we  shall  be  apt  to  think 
ourselves,  if  not  contemporaries,  at  least  not  far  removed  from 
that  epoch  of  nature,  when  the  waters  collected  to  an  extra 
ordinary  height  in  hollow  vallies,  were  striving  to  break  down 
their  dykes,  still  uncertain  of  the  means  to  be  adopted  for  ma 
king  their  escape  ;  we  shall  be  led  to  think  that  the  motion  of 
the  earth  on  its  axis,  or  the  westerly  winds,  which  in  North- 


358  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

America  correspond  with  the  trade  winds  of  the  Tropics,  and 
of  which  they  are  possibly  the  effect,  have  at  length  determi 
ned  the  motion  of  the  waters  towards  the  east.  In  which 
case,  one  of  these  two  circumstances  might  happen  ;  either 
that  the  waters  having  exceeded  the  heights  of  the  least  lofty 
summits  which  opposed  their  passage,  formed  a  sort  of  gutters, 
by  which  the  superfluity  escaped ;  or  that  unable  to  attain  the 
height  of  these  mountains,  they  met  with  some  softer  parts  of 
the  greater  mass  itself,  which  they  first  sapped,  and  then  en 
tirely  penetrated.  In  the  first  case,  if  the  declivity  was  very 
steep,  and  the  rock  which  served  byway  of  apron  Was  very  hard, 
they  would  form  a  cataract,  but  where  the  declivity  was  less  rapid, 
and  the  soil  less  compact,  the  waters  not  only  will  have  formed 
the  gutter  which  served  them  as  a  passage,  but  have  overthrown 
and  hurried  along  with  them  the  lands,  forming  them  into  long 
glacis,  which  would  lose  themselves  finally  in  the  plains.  Thus 
Hudson  river,  the  Delaware,  the  Potomac,  James  river,  and 
many  others,  have  opened  ways  for  themselves  to  the  sea,  by 
piercing  the  mountains  at  angles,  more  or  less  approaching  to 
right  angles,  and  forming,  more  or  less,  spacious  vallies.  In 
the  second  case,  the  waters  unable  to  pass  the  mountains,  un 
less  below  their  summits,  must  have  left  above  them  a  sort  of 
calotte,  or  arch,  similar  to  that  of  the  Natural  Bridge.  But 
how  many  chances  are  there,  both  that  these  arches  must  fall 
down  after  a  certain  time,  especially  when  the  beds  of  the 
rivers  becoming  deeper  and  deeper,  the  burthen  becomes  too 
weighty,  and  they  have  lost  their  bases  !* 


*  Mr.  Jefferson,  in  his  excellent  Notes  on  Virginia,  seems  to  lean 
to  the  system  of  Buffon,  in  the  following-  sublime  and  animated  de 
scription  : 

"  The  courses  of  the  following  great  rivers  of  Virginia,  says  lie,  are 
at  right  angles  with  the  long  chain  of  mountains,  known  in  the  Euro 
pean  maps  by  the  name  of  the  Apalactiiari  Mountains.  James  and 
Potama  penetrate  through  all  the  ridges  of  mountains  eastward  of  the 
Alleghany.  That  is,  broken  by  no  watercourse,  it  is  in  fact  the  spine 
of  the  country  between  the  Atlantic  on  one  side,  and  the  Mississippi  and 
St.  Lawrence  on  the  other.  The  passages  of  the  Potomac  through 
the  Blue  Ridge  is  perhaps  one  of  the  most  stupendous  scenes  in  na 
ture  ;  you  stand  on  a  very  high  point  of  land.  On  your  right  comes 
up  the  Shenandoah,  having  ranged  along  the  foot  of  the  mountains  an 
hundred  miles  to  seek  a  vent.  On  your  left  approaches  the  Potomac, 
in  quest  of  a  passage  also.  In  the  moment  of  their  junction  they  rush 
together  against  the  mountain,  rend  it  asunder,  and  pass  off  to  the  sea. 
The  first  glance  of  this  scene  hurries  our  senses  into  the  opinion  that 
this  earth  had  been  created  in  time,  that  the  mountains  were  formed 
first,  that  the  rivers  began  to  flow  afterwards,  that  in  this  place  partlcu- 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  359 

Do  we  still  doubt  of  the  probability  of  this  hypothesis^  Do 
we  wish  for  more  striking  tokens,  more  evident  traces  of  the 
operation  of  the  waters,  let  us  continue  to  travel  in  America ; 

larly  they  have  been  dammed  up  by  the  Blue  Ridge  of  mountains,  and 
have  formed  an  ocean  which  filled  the  whole  valley  ;  that  continuing  o 
rise,  they  have  at  length  broken  over  at  this  spot,  and  have  torn  the 
mountain  down  from  its  summit  to  its  base.  The  piles  of  rock  on 
each  hand,  but  particularly  on  the  Shenandoah,  the  evident  marks  of 
their  disrupture  evulsion  from  their  beds,  by  the  most  powerful  agents 
of  nature,  corroborate  the  impression.  But  the  distant  finishing  which 
nature  has  given  to  the  picture,  is  of  a  very  different  character.  It 
is  a  true  contrast  to  the  fore  ground.  It  is  as  placid  and  delightful  as 
that  is  wild  and  tremendous.  For  the  mountain  being  cloven  asunder, 
she  presents  to  your  eye,  through  the  cleft,  a  small  catch  of  smooth 
blue  horizon,  at  an  infinite  distance  in  the  plain  country,  inviting  you, 
as  it  were,  from  the  riot  and  tumult  roaring  around,  to  pass  through 
the  breach,  and  partake  of  the  calm  below.  Here  the  eye  ultimately 
composes  itself;  and  that  way  too  the  road  happens  actually  to  lead. 
You  cross  the  Potomac  above  the  junction,  pass  along  its  side  through 
the  base  of  the  mountain  for  three  miles,  its  terrible  precipices  hang 
ing  in  fragments  over  you,  and  within  about  twenty  miles  reach 
Frederictown,  and  the  fine  country  round  it.  This  scene  is  worth  a 
voyage  across  the  Atlantic.  Yet  here,  as  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  Natural  Bridge,  are  people  who  have  passed  their  lives  within  half 
a  dozen  miles,  and  have  never  been  to  survey  these  monuments  of  a 
war  between  rivers  and  mountains,  which  must  have  shaken  the  earth 
itself  to  its  centre." 

Mr.  Charles  Thompson,  Secretary  to  Congress,  in  an  appendix  to 
Mr.  Jefferson's  work,  adds  the  following  remarks  on  the  same  subject. 
The  reader  will  pardon,  I  am  confident,  the  length  of  these  extracts 
from  a  work  so  highly  interesting,  and  which  is  not  yet  given  to  the 
public. 

uThe  reflections,"  says  Mr.  Thompson,  "  I  was  led  into  on  view 
ing  this  passage  of  the  Potomac  through  the  Blue  Ridge  were,  that 
this  country  must  have  suffered  some  violent  convulsion,  and  that  the 
face  of  it  must  have  been  changed  from  what  it  was  probably  some  cen 
turies  ago  :  that  the  broken  and  ragged  faces  of  the  mountain  on  each 
side  the  river,  the  tremendous  rocks  which  are  left  with  one  end  fixed 
in  the  precipice,  and  the  others  jutting  out,  and  seemingly  ready  to 
fall  for  want  of  support ;  the  bed  of  the  river  for  several  miles  below 
obstructed  and  filled  with  the  loose  stones  carried  from  this  mound  ;  in 
short,  every  thing  on  which  you  cast  your  eye,  evidently  demonstrates 
a  disrupture  and  breach  in  the  mountain,  and  that,  before  this  happen 
ed,  what  is  now  a  fruitful  vale  was  formerly  a  great  lake  or  collection 
of  water,  which  possibly  might  have  here  formed  a  mighty  cascade,  or 
had  its  vent  to  the  ocean  by  the  Susquehanna,  where  the  Blue  Ridge 
seems  to  terminate.  Besides  this,  there  are  other  parts  of  this  coun 
try  which  bear  evident  traces  of  a  like  convulsion.  From  the  best  ac- 


360  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

let  us  go  into  the  vicinity  of  the  Ohio,  on  the  banks  of  the 
river  Kentucky  ;  we  may  there  observe  what  follows,  or  rather 


counts  I  have  been  able  to  obtain,  the  place  where  the  Delaware  now 
flows  through  the  Kittatinny  mountain,  which  is  a  continuation  of 
what  is  called  the  North  Ridge  or  Mountain,  was  not  its  original 
course,  but  that  it  passed  through  what  is  now  called,  "  The  Wind 
Gap,"  a  place  several  miles  to  the  westward,  and  above  an  hundred 
feet  higher  than  the  present  bed  of  the  river.  This  Wind  Gap  is  about 
a  mile  broad,  and  the  stones  in  it  such  as  seem  to  have  been  washed 
for  ages  by  water  running  over  them.  Should  this  have  been  the 
case,  there  must  have  been  a  large  lake  behind  that  mountain,  and  by 
some  uncommon  swell  of  the  waters,  or  by  some  convulson  of  nature, 
the  river  must  have  opened  its  way  through  a  different  part  of  the 
mountain,  and  meeting  there  with  less  obstruction,  carried  away  with 
it  the  opposing  mounds  of  earth,  and  deluged  the  country  below  with 
the  immense  collection  of  waters  to  which  this  passage  gave  vent. 
There  are  still  remaining,  and  daily  discovered,  innumerable  instances 
of  such  a  deluge  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  after  it  passed  the  hills 
above  the  falls  of  Trenton,  and  reached  the  Champaign.  On  the  New- 
Jersey  side,  which  is  flatter  than  the  Pennsylvania  side,  all  the  country 
below  Cresswick  hills  seems  to  have  been  overflowed  to  the  distance  of 
from  ten  to  fifteen  miles  back  from  the  river,  and  to  have  acquired  a 
new  soil  by  the  earth  and  clay  brought  down  and  mixed  with  the  native 
sand.  The  spot  on  which  Philadelphia  stands  evidently  appears  to  be 
made  ground.  The  different  strata  through  which  they  pass  in  dig 
ging  to  water,  the  acorns,  leaves,  and  sometimes  branches  which  are 
found  above  twenty  feet  below  the  surface,  all  seem  to  demonstrate 
this.*  I  am  informed  that  at  Yorktown  in  Virginia,  in  the  bank  of 
York  river,  there  are  different  strata  of  shells  and  earth,  one  above  an 
other,  which  seem  to  point  out  that  the  country  there  has  undergone 
several  changes,  that  the  sea  has  for  a  succession  of  ages  occupied  the 
place  where  dry  land  now  appears,  and  that  the  ground  has  been  sud 
denly  raised  at  various  periods.  What  a  change  would  it  make  in  the 
country  below,  should  the  mountains  at  Niagara,  by  any  accident  be 
cleft  asunder,  and  a  passage  suddenly  opened  to  drain  off  the  waters 
of  lake  Erie  and  the  upper  lakes !  While  ruminating  on  these  subjects, 
I  have  often  been  hurried  away  by  fancy,  and  led  to  imagine  that  what 
is  now  the  bay  of  Mexico  was  once  a  champaign  country,  and  that 
from  the  point  or  cape  of  Florida,  there  was  a  continued  range  of 
mountains  through  Cuba,  Hispaniola,  Porto  Rico,  Martinique,  Gua- 
daloupe,  Barbadoes  and  Trinidad,  till  it  reached  the  coast  of  Ameri 
ca,  and  formed  the  shores  which  bounded  the  ocean  and  guarded  the 

*  From  an  accurate  topographical  observation  of  the  mountainous  parts  of  Eng 
land,  aad  other  countries,  on  these  principles,  might  we  not  be  able  to  solve  various 
phenomena  which  present  themselves  in  the  plains  bordering  upon  rivers,  that  is 
to  say,  within  reach  of  such  a  supposed  overflow  of  waters ;  the  q  uantity  of  large 
solid  oak  timber,  for  example,  found  in  Walker  Colliery  near  Newcastle,  on  the 
banks  of  the  river  Tyne,at  the  prodigious  depth  of  120  fathoms  I,— Trans. 


Tit  A  V  ELS  UN  NORTH- AMERICA.  361 

what  the  recent  historian  of  that  country*  has  written.  "  Among 
the  natural  curiosities  of  this  territory,  the  winding  banks,  or 
rather  the  precipice  of  Kentucky,  and  of  the  river  Diek,  merit 
the  first  rank.     The  astonished  eye  beholds,  almost  on  every 
side,  three  or  four  hundred  feet  of  a  calcareous  rock,  perpendi 
cularly  cut ;  in  some  places  a  beautiful  white  marble,  curiously 
shaped  in  arches  or  in  columns,  or  piled  upon  a  fine  stone  for 
building.     These  precipices,  as  I  have  already  observed,  re 
semble  the  sides  of  a  deep  trench,  or  a  canal,  the  earth  around 
being  level,  except  in  the  course  of  the   rivulets,  and  co 
vered  with  groves  of  red  cedar ;  you  can  only  cross  this  river 
at  certain  places,  one  of  which  is  worthy  of  admiration  :  it  is 
a  highway  formed  by  the  buffaloes,  and  wide  enough  for  wa 
gons,  in  a  gentle  slope,  from  the  summit  to  the  foot  of  a  very 
steep  eminence,  close  to  the  river  above  Leestown." 

But  let  us  consult  Don  Joseph  d'Ulloa,  already  so  celebrated 
by  his  voyages ;  he  is  the  author  of  the  above-mentioned  Spa 
nish  book,  entitled,  Noticias  Americanas,  in  which  he  gives  very 
curious  and  minute  descriptions  of  all  Spanish  America.  In 
the  article  I  am  going  to  translate,  he  begins  by  remarking  a 
very  sensible  difference  between  the  mountains  in  America, 
situated  under  the  torrid  zone,  and  those  we  observe  in  other 
parts  of  the  globe  ;  for  although  the  height  of  the  latter  be 
often  very  considerable,  as  the  ground  rises  gradually,  and  their 
combined  summits  form  immense  countries,  they  who  inhabit 
them  may  be  ignorant  of  their  elevation  above  the  level  of  the 
sea ;  whereas  those  of  America  being  separated,  and,  so  to 
speak,  cloven  their  whole  height,  give  incessantly  the  idea,  and 
even  the  measure  of  their  prodigious  altitude.  "  In  this  part 
of  the  world,  adds  he,  the  earth  is  intersected  by  profound 
trenches  (quebradas)  of  a  very  considerable  width,  since  they 
form  the  separation  of  the  mountains  from  each  other,  and 
form  frequently  an  opening,  of  more  than  two  leagues,  at  the 
upper  part  of  them.  This  space  becomes  contracted  in  pro 
portion  as  they  are  mote  or  less  profound  ;  and  it  is  in  the  bot- 

country  behind  :  that  by  some  convulsion  or  shock  of  nature  the  sea 
had  broken  through  these  mounds  and  deluged  that  vast  plain  till  it 
reached  the  foot  of  the  Andes  ;  that  being  there  heaped  up  by  the  trade 
winds,  always  blowing  from  one  quarter,  it  had  found  its  way  back,  as 
it  continues  to  do,  through  the  gulf  between  Florida  and  Cuba,  carry 
ing  with  it  the  loom  and  sand  which  it  may  have  scooped  from  the  country 
it  had  occupied,  part  of  which  it  may  have  deposited  on  the  shores  of 
North  America,  and  with  part  formed  the  banks  of  the  Newfoundland. 
But  these  are  only  the  visions  of  fancy."  The  Translator  adds,  but 
they  are  the  sublime  visions  of  a  great  and  enlightened  mind. —  Trans. 

*  Mr.  Filson,  whose  work  is  lately  translated  into  French — Trans. 

40 

' 


3(52  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

torn  of  this  kind  of  valleys  that  the  rivers  flow,  which  almost 
regularly  occupy  the  middle,  leaving  an  equal  extent  of  level 
ground  on  each  side  of  them.     But  what  is  most  remarkable. 
is,  that  the  angles  or  sinuosities  formed  by  these  rivers,  corres 
pond  perfectly  with  those  we  observe  to  the  right  and  left  in 
the  segments  of  these  mountains ;  so  that  if  we  could  at  once 
bring  together  the  two  sides  of  these  valleys,  we  should  have  a 
solid  mass,  without  any  interruption.     The  rivers  pursue  their 
course  in  these  embankments,  until  they  reach  the  plain,  and 
from  thence  the  ocean.     In  this  latter  part  of  their  career,  their 
bed  is  not  deep,  and  their  bottom  is  nearly  on  a  level  with  the 
sea.     Thus  it  may  in  general  be  remarked,  that  the  more  lofty 
the  mountains  of  the  Cordelliers,  the  more  profound  is  the  bed 
of  the  rivers  which  flow  through  their  valleys. 

"  In  the  province  of  Angaras,  among  the  lusus  natura^  with 
which  these  countries  abound,  there  is  one  which  merits  parti 
cular  attention.  This  province,  which  is  a  dependency  of 
Guancavelica,  is  divided  into  several  departments ;  in  one  of 
these  departments,  called  Conaica,  is  the  small  village  of 
Vinas,  situated  at  nine  leagues  distance  from  Conaica.  About 
midway  between  them,  is  a  mountain  known  by  the  name  of 
Corosunta :  on  arriving  at  the  foot  of  this  mountain,  you  enter 
into  a  cleft,  or  if  you  will,  an  opening,  through  which  flows  the 
rivulet  of  Chapllancas ;  this  rivulet  enters  an  embankment  the 
breadth  of  which  is  from  twenty  to  five  and  twenty  feet,  and  its 
height  upwards  of  forty ;  without  being  pe.rceptibly  wider  at 
the  superior  than  the  inferior  part.  This  gap,  which  is  occu 
pied  in  its  whole  width  by  the  stream,  forms  the  only  commu 
nication  that  exists  between  Vinas  and  Conaica.  You  can  only 
cross  the  river  in  those  places  where,  as  I  have  already  said,  the 
opening  is  twenty  feet  broad,  and  you  are  obliged  to  cross  it 
nine  times,  taking  advantage  of  those  places  where  it  departs 
a  little  from  the  rock,  which  only  happens  where  it  has  formed 
some  sinuosities  ;  for  when  its  course  is  direct,  it  exactly  fills 
the  opening  through  which  it  passes.  This  trench  is  formed 
out  of  the  live  rock,  and  with  so  much  regularity,  that  all  the 
prominent  parts  of  one  side,  correspond  perfectly  with  the  re 
cipient  parts  or  indentures  of  the  other  in  its  whole  height ; 
insomuch  that  it  might  be  taken  for  a  canal  cut  expressly  for 
the  passage  of  the  water,  and  which  had  been  executed  with  so 
complete  a  symmetry,  as  that  the  two  sides  might  exactly  fit 
each  other,  without  leaving  the  smallest  interstice  between 
them.  There  is  no  danger  in  travelling  this  road,  for  the  rock 
is  too  solid  to  give  any  apprehension  of  its  crumbling,  and  the 
small  river  is  not  rapid  enough  to  endanger  boats ;  yet  it  is 
difficult  to  suppress  a  sentiment  of  terror,  on  finding  yourself 
engaged  in  this  narrow  gap,  the  two  sides  of  which,,  from  their 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH- AMERICA.  363 

perfect  correspondence,  present  the  idea  of  a  box  half  opened 
for  a  moment,  and  always  ready  to  close  upon  you. 

"  The  cavity  I  have  been  describing  is  so  much  the  more 
worthy  our  observation,  as  it  may  be  looked  upon  as  a  model, 
or  example  of  what  the  valleys  of  the  Cordilleras  have  been, 
when  in  their  origin  they  did  not  exceed  the  depth  of  this ;  for 
their  sides,  which  now  form  a  gentle  slope,  were  then  doubtless 
perpendicularly  cut,  and  it  was  not  until  the  waters  undermined, 
them  to  a  great  depth,  that  the  upper  parts  being  overloaded, 
have  successively  crumbled  down.  This  analogy  is  even  con 
firmed  by  the  decay  to  be  observed  in  the  embankment  formed 
by  the  Chapllancas  ;  a  waste  occasioned  by  the  slow  and  suc 
cessive  effect  of  the  rains  and  frost,  and  the  crevices  produced 
by  the  sun,  but  which  are  less  sensible  there  than  elsewhere, 
because  the  rock  is  harder,  more  solid,  and  more  continuous, 
not  being  interrupted  by  any  bed  of  earth,  or  other  matter 
easily  to  be  dissolved  or  crumbled.  Every  thing,  therefore, 
leads  to  a  conclusion,  that  the  waters  alone  have  formed  this 
canal  in  the  form  we  now  see  it,  and  that  they  will  continue  to 
augment  its  depth,  since  we  know  that  time  alone  is  sufficient 
to  reduce  the  hardest  stone  to  a  fine  and  almost  imperceptible 
sand,  and  that  this  progress  is  already  discoverable  from  the 
little  fragments  of  stone  visible  at  the  bottom  of  the  river,  as 
well  as  from  those  it  carries  to  the  plain  ;  when,  finding  a  more 
extensive  range,  it  begins  to  enlarge  its  surface. 

"  Whether  we  attribute  the  origin  of  this  canal  to  the  fric 
tion  of  the  waters  which  have  gradually  deepened  it,  or  whether 
we  suppose  the  mountain  to  have  been  rent  asunder  by  an  earth 
quake,  so  as  to  open  a  new  passage  for  this  river  which  flowed 
antecedently  in  another  direction  ;  it  is  still  certain  that  such 
an  aperture  cannot  have  existed  at  the  epocha  immediately  sub 
sequent  to  the  deluge.  It  is  the  same  with  respect  to  the  lar 
ger  embankments  of  this  kind,  known  by  the  name  of  quebra- 
idas,  and  which  are  frequently  to  be  met  with  in  the  upper  part 
of  South-America.  It  is  evident  that  they  have  been  formed 
equally  by  the  labour  of  the  waters ;  for  on  the  one  hand,  we 
know  that  the  rapidity  of  their  current  is  capable  of  wrenching 
off  stones  of  an  extraordinary  size  ;  and  on  the  other,  we  have 
manifest  proofs  of  the  continual  effort  made  by  them  to  deepen 
their  bed,  an  effort  the  traces  of  which  are  discovered  in  the 
huge  blocks  they  have  formed  into  the  shape  of  dice,  or  cubes, 
as  often  as  the  rocks  oppose  too  much  resistance  to  them  to 
admit  of  their  dividing  and  clearing  away  the  whole  extent  of 
the  bottom  on  which  they  exercise  their  activity.  In  the  river 
of  Isuchaca,  near  the  village  of  that  name,  is  a  large  mass  of 
stone,  of  a  regular  square  form,  and  each  side  of  which  may  be 
above  five  and  thirty  or  forty  feet.  When  the  waters  are  low. 


;tf>4  TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

it  rises  five  and  twenty  feet  above  their  level.  But  to  account 
ior  the  form  of  these  large  cubic  masses,  as  well  as  of  other 
smaller  ones,  which  are  often  to  be  found  in  the  bed  of  rivers, 
and  which  are  all  regularly  shaped,  we  must  suppose  that  the 
waters  have  successively  torn  and  wrenched  off  the  rocks  by  which 
they  were  surrounded,  thus  leaving  them  single,  and  isolated, 
in  their  present  form  ;  but  this  only  until  the  beds  of  the  rivers 
becoming  deeper  and  deeper,  the  waters  meet  at  their  bases 
with  some  veins  of  earth  or  other  matter  easy  of  dissolution ; 
for  in  that  case  you  will  undermine  and  unset  them,  (so  to  speak) 
so  as  one  day  to  displace  them  entirely  and  hurry  them  along. 
These  masses,  once  in  motion,  will  shock  either  those  on  the 
banks,  those  they  meet  with  in  the  bed  even  of  the  river,  which 
breaking  and  being  reduced  to  various  masses  of  less  dimension, 
will  be  the  more  easily  drifted.  Such  is  without  doubt  the  ori 
gin  of  all  those  stones  we  see  under  the  water,  or  on  the  banks, 
some  of  which  are  very  small,  and  others  so  enormous,  that  no 
human  effort  is  able  to  remove  them.  As  to  the  extraordinary 
profundity  of  those  valleys  or  quebradas,  one  example  will  be 
sufficient  to  give  an  idea  of  it.  The  town  of  Guanvelica  is 
built  in  a  valley  formed  by  different  chains  of  mountains ;  the 
barometer  there  stands  at  eighteen  inches,  one  line  and  a  half 
(this  mean  term  is  taken  between  eighteen  inches  and  a  quar 
ter,  and  eighteen  inches  one  third,  which  form  the  greatest  va 
riation  of  the  barometer  at  that  place  ;)  according  to  this  height 
of  the  mercury,  the  elevation  above  the  level  of  the  sea  should 
be  1949  toises.  On  the  summit  of  the  mountain  in  which  is 
the  mine  of  Asogues,  a  spot  still  habitable,  and  which  is  itself 
as  much  lower  than  other  adjacent  heights*  as  it  is  higher  than 
the  town  of  Guanvelica,  the  mercury  only  stands  at  sixteen 
inches  just,  which  gives  2337  toises  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
and  about  500  toises  for  the  depth  of  the  quebrada,  or  valley 
of  Guanvelica,  which  seems  to  be  no  other  than  the  deepened 
bed  of  the  river  we  now  see  flowing  through  the  middle  of  it." 
After  so  many  observations  on  the  extraordinary  effects  of  the 
waters,  have  we  not  some  foundation  for  supposing  that  the 
Natural  Bridge  is  also  their  production,  and  ought  we  not  to 
regard  it  as  a  sort  of  quebrada  9  When  the  valleys  of  the  Apa- 
lachians  were  only  vast  lakes,  in  which  the  waters  were  retain 
ed  prisoners,  this  little  valley,  whose  depth  they  traverse,  may 
have  served  as  a  partial  reservoir,  wherein  they  have  remained 
even  after  those  of  the  large  valleys  made  their  escape.  The 
mass  of  the  rock  out  of  which  the  Natural  Bridge  is  excavated, 
may  have  served  them  as  a  barrier,  but  whether  it  be  that  they 
have  not  risen  to  the  summit  of  the  rock,  or  whether  they  suc 
ceeded  more  easily  in  sapping  the  lower  part  of  it,  they  will  in 
either  case  have  left  subsisting  that  immense  gap  which  form 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH-AMERICA.  tk>5 

the  arch  such  as  we  now  see  it.  It  would  be  useless,  and  per 
haps  rash,  to  endeavour  minutely  to  explain  the  manner  in  which 
the  bending  of  this  vault  has  been  so  regularly  traced  out ;  but 
the  cause  once  understood,  all  the  effects,  however  varied,  and 
however  astonishing  they  may  appear,  must  have  the  same  ori 
gin.  We  may  observe  besides,  that  the  greatest  bend  of  this 
vault  corresponds  with  the  angle  formed  by  the  valley  in  this 
place,  insomuch  that  the  rock  seems  to  have  been  the  more 
worked  upon,  as  the  effort  of  the  waters  have  been  more  con 
siderable.  However  this  may  be,  I  leave  every  one  at  liberty 
to  form  such  conjectures  as  he  pleases,*  and  as  I  have  said 
above,  my  design  has  been  less  to  explain  this  prodigy  of  nature, 
than  to  describe  it  with  such  accuracy  as  to  enable  the  learned 
to  form  a  judgment  on  the  subject. 

*  Mr.  Jefferson,  after  speaking  of  the  above  passage  of  the  Spanish 
author,  differs  from  him  and  from  the  Marquis  de  Chastellux,  in  their 
reasoning  on  the  probable  causes  of  its  production,  as  follows :  "  Don 
Ulloa  inclines  to  the  opinion,  that  this  channel  has  been  effected  by  the 
wearing  of  the  water  which  runs  through  it,  rather  than  that  the  moun 
tain  should  have  been  broken  open  by  any  convulsion  of  nature.  But 
if  it  had  been  worn  by  the  running  of  the  water,  would  not  the  rocks, 
which  form  the  sides,  have  been  worn  plane  ?  or  if,  meeting  in  some 
parts  with  veins  of  harder  stone,  the  water  had  left  prominences  on  one 
side,  would  not  the  same  cause  have  sometimes,  or  perhaps  generally, 
occasioned  prominences  on  the  other  side  also  ?  Yet  Don  Ulloa  tells 
us,  that  on  the  other  side  there  are  always  corresponding  cavities,  and 
that  these  tally  with  the  prominences  so  perfectly,  that  were  the  two 
sides  to  come  together,  they  would  fit  in  all  their  indentures,  without 
leaving  any  void.  I  think  that  this  does  not  resemble  the  effect  of  run 
ning  water,  but  looks  rather  as  if  the  two  sides  had  parted  asunder. 
The  sides  of  the  break,  over  which  is  the  Natural  Bridge  of  Virginia, 
consists  of  a  veiny  rock  which  yields  to  time,  the  correspondence  be 
tween  the  satient  and  re-entering  inequalities,  if  it  existed  at  all,  has 
now  disappeared.  This  break  has  the  advantage  of  the  one  described 
by  Don  Ulloa  in  its  finest  circumstance,  no  portion  in  that  instance 
having  held  together,  during  the  separation  of  the  other  parts,  so  as  to 
form  a  bridge  over  the  abyss." — Trans. 


PART  IV. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 


CHASTELLUX  TO  MADISON. — WASHINGTON  TO 


CHASTELLUX. 


I 


CORRESPONDENCE. 


LETTER  I. 

FROM  THE  MARQUIS  DE  CHASTELLUX,  TO  MR.  MADISON,*  PROFESSOR 
OF  PHILOSOPHY,  IN  THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  WILLIAMSBURGH. 

I  HAVE  not  forgot,  Sir,  the  promise  1  made  you  on  leaving 
Williamsburgh  ;  it  reminds  me  of  the  friendship  with  which  you 
were  pleased  to  honour  me,  and  the  flattering  prejudices  in 
my  favour,  which  were  the  consequences  of  it.  I  am  afraid 
that  I  have  undertaken  more  than  I  am  able  to  perform  ;  but  I 
shall  at  least  address  you  in  the  language  of  sincerity,  in  the 
sort  of  literary  bankruptcy  I  am  now  about  to  make. — By  put 
ting  you  in  full  possession  of  my  feeble  resources,  however, 
I  may  perhaps  obtain  a  still  further  portion  of  that  indulgence, 
to  which  you  have  so  frequently  accustomed  me.  The  subject 
on  which  I  rather  thought  of  asking  information  from  you,  than 
of  offering  you  my  ideas,  would  require  long  and  tranquil  me 
ditation,  and  since  I  quitted  Virginia,  I  have  been  continually 
travelling,  some  times  from  duty  with  the  troops,  at  others  to 
gratify  my  curiosity  in  the  eastern  parts  of  America,  as  far  even 
as  New-Hampshire.  But  even  had  my  time  been  subject  to 
less  interruption,  I  am  not  sure  that  I  should  have  been  more 


*  Mr.  Madison's  son  is  a  member  of  the  Assembly,  and  has  served  in 
Congress  for  Virginia.  This  young  man,  who  at  the  age  of  30  asto 
nishes  the  new  Republics  by  his  eloquence,  his  wisdom,  and  his  genius, 
has  had  the  humanity  and  the  courage,  (for  such  a  proposition  requires 
no  small  share  of  courage)  to  propose  a  general  emancipation  of  the 
slaves,  at  the  beginning  of  this  year,  1786  :  Mr.  Jefferson's  absence  at 
Paris,  and  the  situation  of  Mr.  Whythc,  as  one  of  the  judges  of  the 
state,  which  prevented  them  from  lending  their  powerful  support,  oc 
casioned  it  to  miscarry  for  the  moment,  but  there  is  every  reason  to 
suppose  that  the  proposition  will  be  successfully  renewed.  As  it  is, 
the  assembly  have  passed  a  law  declaring  that  there  shall  be  no  more 
slaves  in  the  Republic  but  those  existing  the  first  day  of  the  session  of 
1785-6,  and  the  descendants  of  female  slaves. — Trans. 

47 


370  CORRESPON  DENCE. 

capable  of  accomplishing  your  wishes.  My  mind,  aided  and 
excited  by  yours,  experienced  an  energy  it  has  since  lost  ;  and 
if  in  our  conversation,  I  have  chanced  to  express  some  senti 
ments  which  merited  your  approbation,  it  is  not  to  myself  that 
they  belonged,  but  to  the  party  that  spoke  with  Mr.  Madi 
son.  At  present  I  must  appear  in  all  my  weakness,  and  with 
this  farther  disadvantage,  that  I  want  both  time  and  leisure,  not 
only  to  rectify  my  thoughts,  but  even  to  throw  them  properly 
on  paper.  No  matter  ;  I  venture  on  the  task,  persuaded  that 
you  will  easily  supply  my  unavoidable  omissions,  and  that  the 
merit  of  this  essay,  if  there  will  be  any,  will  be  completed  by 
yourself. 

The  most  frequent  object  of  our  conversations  was  the  pro 
gress  that  the  arts  and  sciences  cannot  fail  of  making  in  Ame 
rica,  and  the  influence  they  must  necessarily  have  on  manners 
and  opinions.     It  seems  as  if  every  thing  relative  to  govern 
ment  and  legislation  ought  to  be  excluded  from  such  discus 
sions,  and  undoubtedly  a  stranger,  should  avoid  as  much  as 
possible,  treating  matters  of  which  he  cannot  be  a  competent 
judge.     But  in  the  physical,  as  in  the  moral  world,  nothing 
stands  isolated,  no  cause  acts  single  and  independent.     Whe 
ther  we  consider  the  fine  arts,  and  the  enjoyments  they  pro 
duce,  as  a  delicious  ambrosia   the  gods  have  thought  proper 
to  partake  with  us,  or  whether  we  regard  them  as  a  dangerous 
poison  ;  that  liquor,  whether  beneficent  or  fatal,  must  always 
be  modified  by  the  vessel  into  which  it  is  infused.     It  is  neces 
sary  therefore,  to  fix  our  attention  for  a  moment  on  the  politi 
cal  constitution  of  the  people  of  America,  and  in  doing  this, 
may  I  be  permitted  to  recall  a  principle,  I  have  established, 
and  developed   elsewhere  ;*  which  is,  that  the  character,  the 
genius  of  a  people,  is  not  solely  produced  by  the  government 
they  have  adopted,  but  by  the  circumstances  under  which  they 
were  originally  formed.     Locke, and  after  him,  Rousseau  have 
observed  that  that  the  education  of  man  should  commence  from 
the  cradle,  that  is  to  say,  at  the  moment  when  he  is  contract 
ing  his  first  habits  ;  it  is  the  same  with  states.     Long  do  we 
discover  in  the  rich  and  powerful  Romans,  the  same  plunder 
ers  collected  by  Romulus  to  live  by  rapine  ;  and  in  our  days 
the  French,  docile  and  polished,  possibly  to  excess,  still  pre 
serve  the  traces  of  the  feudal  spirit  ;  whilst  the  English  amidst 
their  clamours  against  the  royal  authority,  continue  to  manifest 
a  respect  for  the  crown,  which  recalls  the  epoch  of  the  con 
quest,  and  the  Norman  government.     Thus  every  thing  that 
is,  partakes  of  what  has  been  ;  and  to  attain  a  thorough  know- 

*  See  the  author's  work — de  lafelidt'e publique. 


CORRESPONDENCE.  371 

ledge  of  any  people,  it  is  not  less  necessary  to  study  their  histo 
ry  than  their  legislation.  If  then  we  wish  to  form  an  idea  of 
the  American  Republic,  we  must  be  careful  not  to  confound 
the  Virginians,  whom  warlike  as  well  as  mercantile,  and  whose 
ambitious  as  well  as  speculative  genius,  brought  upon  the  con 
tinent,  with  the  New-Englanders,  who  owe  their  origin  to  en 
thusiasm  ;  we  must  not  expect  to  find  precisely  the  same  men 
in  Pennsylvania,  where  the  first  colonists  thought  only  of  keep 
ing  and  cultivating  the  deserts,  and  in  South-Carolina, where  the 
production  of  some  exclusive  articles  fixes  the  general  atten 
tion  on  external  commerce,  and  establishes  unavoidable  con 
nexions  with  the  old  world.  Let  it  be  observed,  too,  that  agri 
culture  which  was  the  occupation  of  the  first  settlers,  was  not 
an  adequate  means  of  assimilating  the  one  with  the  other,  since 
there  are  certain  species  of  culture  which  tend  to  maintain  the 
equality  of  fortune,  and  others  to  destroy  it. 

These  are  sufficient  reasons  to  prove  that  the  same  princi 
ples,  the  same  opinions,  the  same  habits,  do  not  occur  in  all 
the  thirteen  United  States,  although  they  are  subject  nearly  to 
the  same  force  of  government.  For,  notwithstanding  that  all 
their  constitutions  are  not  similar,  there  is  through  the  whole  a 
democracy,  and  a  government  of  representation,  in  which  the 
people  give  their  suffrage  by  their  delegates.  But  if  we  choose 
to  overlook  those  shades,  which  distinguish  this  confederated 
people  from  each  other  ;  if  we  regard  the  thirteen  states  only 
as  one  nation,  we  shall  even  then  observe  that  she  must  long 
retain  the  impression  of  those  circumstances,  which  have  con 
ducted  her  to  liberty.  Every  philosopher  acquainted  with 
mankind,  and  who  has  studied  the  springs  of  human  action, 
must-be  convinced  that,  in  the  present  revolution,  the  Ameri 
cans  have  been  guided  by  two  principles,  whilst  they  imagined 
they  were  following  the  impulse  of  only  one.  He  will  distin 
guish,  a  positive  and  a  negative  principle,  in  their  legislation, 
and  in  their  opinions.  I  call  that  principle,  positive,  which  in 
so  enlightened  a  moment  as  the  present,  reason  alone  could 
dictate  to  a  people  making  choice  of  that  government  which 
suited  them  the  best ;  I  call  that  a  negative  principle  which 
they  oppose  to  the  laws  and  usages  of  a  powerful  enemy  for 
whom  they  had  contracted  a  well  founded  aversion.  Struck 
with  the  example  of  the  inconveniences  offered  by  the  English 
government,  they  had  recourse  to  the  opposite  extreme,  con 
vinced  that  it  was  impossible  to  deviate  from  it  too  much. 
Thus  a  child  who  has  met  with  a  serpent  in  his  road,  is  not 
contented  with  avoiding  it,  but  flies  far  from  the  spot  where 
he  would  be  out  of  danger  of  his  bite.  In  England,  a  septen 
nial  parliament  invites  the  king  to  purchase  a  majority  on 

/o;y  «  t-i 


:572  CORRESPONDENCE. 

which  he  may  reckon  for  a  long  period ;  the  American  assem 
blies  therefore,  must  be  annual  ;  on  the  other  side  of  the  water, 
the  executive  power,  too  uncontrolled  in  its  action,  frequently 
escapes  the  vigilance  of  the  legislative  authority  ;  on  this  con 
tinent,  each  officer,  each  minister  of  the  people  must  be  under 
the  immediate  dependence  of  the  assemblies,  so  that  his  first 
care  on  attaining  office,  will  be  to  court  the  popular  favour 
for  a  new  election.  Among  the  English,  employments  confer, 
and  procure  rank  and  riches,  and  frequently  elevate  their  pos 
sessors  to  too  great  a  height :  among  the  Americans,  offices 
neither  conferring  wealth,  nor  consideration,  will  not,  it  is  true, 
become  objects  of  intrigue  or  purchase,  but  they  will  be  held 
in  so  little  estimation  as  to  make  them  avoided  rather  than 
sought  after,  by  the  most  enlightened  citizens,  by  which  means 
every  employment  will  fall  into  the  hands  of  new  and  untried 
men,  the  only  persons  who  can  expect  to  hold  them  to  advan 
tage. 

In  continuing  to  consider  the  thirteen  United  States  under 
one  general  point  of  view,  we  shall  observe  still  other  circum 
stances  which  have  influenced  as  well  the  principles  of  the  go 
vernment,  as  the  national  spirit.  These  thirteen  states  were  at 
first  colonies  ;  now,  the  first  necessity  felt  in  all  rising  colonies 
is  population ;  I  say  in  rising  colonies,  for  I  doubt  much  whe 
ther  that  necessity  exists  at  present,  so  much  as  is  generally  ima 
gined.  Of  this,  however,  I  am  very  sure,  that  there  will  still 
be  a  complaint  of  want  of  population,  long  after  the  necessity 
has  ceased ;  America  will  long  continue  to  reason  as  follows  : 
we  must  endeavour  to  draw  foreigners  among  us,  for  which  pur 
pose  it  is  indispensably  necessary  to  afford  them  every  possible 
advantage ;  every  person  once  within  the  state,  shall  be  consi 
dered,  therefore,  as  a  member  of  that  state,  as  a  real  citizen. 
Thus  one  year's  residence  in  the  same  place  shall  suffice  to  es 
tablish  him  an  inhabitant,  and  every  inhabitant  shall  have  the 
right  of  voting,  and  shall  constitute  a  part  of  the  sovereign 
power ;  from  whence  it  will  result  that  this  sovereignty  will 
communicate  and  divide  itself  without  requiring  any  pledge, 
any  security  from  the  person  who  is  invested  with  it.  This  has 
arisen  from  not  considering  the  possibility  of  other  emigrants 
than  those  from  Europe,*  who  are  supposed  to  fix  themselves  in 

'  There  are  various  opinions  in  America  on  the  subject  of  encoura 
ging  emigration.  Mr.  Jefferson,  for  example,  a  man  of  profound  thought, 
and  great  penetration,  is  of  opinion  that  emigrants  from  .Europe  are 
not  desirable,  lest  the  emigrants  bringing  with  them  not  only  the  vices, 
but  the  corrupt  prejudices  of  their  respective  ancient  governments,  may 
be  unable  to  relish  that  bold  universal  system  of  freedom  and  toleration 
which  is  a  novelty  to  the  old  world  ;  but  I  venture  to  think,  and  trust, 


CORRESPONDENCE.  373 

the  first  spot  where  they  may  form  a  settlement ;  we  shall  one 
day,  however,  see  frequent  emigrations  from  state  to  state; 
workmen  will  frequently  transplant  themselves,  many  of  them 
will  be  obliged  even  to  change  situations  from  the  nature  of 
their  employments,  in  which  case  it  will  not  be  singular  to  see 
the  elections  for  a  district  of  Connecticut,  decided  by  inhabit 
ants  of  Rhode-Island  or  New-York. 

Some  political  writers,  especially  the  more  modern,  have  ad 
vanced,  that  property  alone  should  constitute  the  citizen.  They 
are  of  opinion  that  he  alone  whose  fortune  is  necessarily  con 
nected  with  its  welfare  has  a  right  to  become  a  member  of  the 
state.  In  America,  a  specious  answer  is  given  to  this  reason 
ing  ;  among  us,  say  they,  landed  property  is  so  easily  acquired, 
that  every  workman  who  can  use  his  hands,  may  be  looked  upon 
as  likely  soon  to  become  a  man  of  property.  But  can  America 
remain  long  in  her  present  situation  ?  And  can  the  regimen  of 
her  infant  state  agree  with  her,  now  she  has  assumed  the  virile 
robe  ? 

The  following,  Sir,  is  a  delicate  question  which  I  can  only        ' 
propose  to  a  philosopher  like  you.     In  establishing  among 
themselves  a  purely  democratic  government,  had  the  Americans 
a  real  affection  for  a  democracy  ?     And  if  they  have  wished  all 
men  to  be  equal,  is  it  not  solely,  because,  from  the  very  nature 

that  such  emigrations  will  be  attended  with  no  bad  consequences  ;  for 
who  will  be  the  emigrants  to  a  country  where  there  are  neither  gold  nor 
silver  mines,  and  where  subsistence  is  alone  to  be  obtained  by  industry  ? 
Men  of  small,  or  no  fortunes,  who  cannot  live  with  comfort,  nor  bring 
up  a  family  in  Europe  ;  labourers  and  artizans  of  every  kind  ;  men  of 
modesty  and  genius,  who  are  cramped  by  insurmountable  obstacles  in 
countries  governed  by  cabal  and  interest ;  virtuous  citizens  compelled 
to  groan  in  silence  under  the  effects  of  arbitrary  power  ;  philosophers 
who  pant  after  the  liberty  of  thinking  for  themselves,  arid  of  giving  vent, 
without  danger,  to  those  generous  maxims  which  burst  from  their  hearts, 
and  of  contributing  their  mite  to  the  general  stock  of  enlightened  know 
ledge  ;  religious  men,  depressed  by  the  hierarchical  establishments  of 
every  country  in  Europe  ;  the  friends  to  freedom  ;  in  short,  the  liberal, 
generous,  and  active  spirits  of  the  whole  world.  To  America,  then,  I 
say  with  fervency,  in  the  glowing  words  of  Mr.  Payne,  who  is  himself 
an  English  emigrant — "  O  !  receive  the  fugitives  and  prepare  in  time 
an  asylum  for  mankind."  The  history  of  the  late  revolution,  too,  may 
justify  our  hopes,  for  it  is  an  observation,  for  the  truth  of  which  I  ap 
peal  to  fact,  that  the  Europeans  settled  in  America  were  possessed  of 
at  least  as  much  energy,  and  served  that  country  with  as  much  zeal  and 
enthusiasm  in  the  cabinet,  and  in  the  field,  as  the  native  Americans, 
and  to  speak  with  the  late  Lord  Chatham,  who  said  many  absurd,  but 
more  wise  things  than  most  statesmen,  "  they  infused  a  portion  of  new 
health  into  the  constitution." — Trans. 


;574  CORRESPONDENCE. 

of  things,  they  were  themselves  nearly  in  that  situation  f  For 
to  preserve  a  popular  government  in  all  its  integrity,  it  is  not 
sufficient,  not  to  admit  either  rank  or  nobility,  riches  alone  never 
fail  to  produce  marked  differences,  by  so  much  the  greater,  as 
there  exist  no  others.  Now,  such  is  the  present  happiness  of 
America  that  she  has  no  poor,  that  every  man  in  it  enjoys  a 
certain  ease  and  independence,  and  that  if  some  have  been  able 
to  obtain  a  smaller  portion  of  them  than  others,  they  are  so 
surrounded  by  resources,  that  the  future  is  more  looked  to  than 
their  present  situation.  Such  is  the  general  tendency  to  a  state 
of  equality ;  that  the  same  enjoyments  which  would  be  deemed 
superfluous  in  every  other  part  of  the  world,  are  here  consider 
ed  as  necessaries.  Thus  the  salary  of  the  workman  must  not 
only  be  equal  to  his  subsistence  and  that  of  his  family,  but  sup 
ply  him  with  proper  and  commodious  furniture  for  his  house, 
tea  and  coffee  for  his  wife,  and  the  silk  gown  she  wears  as  often 
as  she  goes  from  home  ;  and  this  is  one  of  the  principal  causes 
of  the  scarcity  of  labour  so  generally  attributed  to  the  want  of 
hands.  Now,  sir,  let  us  suppose  that  the  increase  of  population 
may  one  day  reduce  your  artizans  to  the  situation  in  which  they 
are  found  in  France  and  England.  Do  you,  in  that  case,  really 
believe  that  your  principles  are  so  truly  democratical,  as  that 
the  landholders  and  the  opulent,  will  still  continue  to  regard 
them  as  their  equals  .?  I  shall  go  still  farther,  relying  on  the 
accuracy  of  your  judgment  to  testify  every  thing  you  may  find 
too  subtle  or  too  speculative  in  my  idea.  I  shall  ask  you  then, 
whether  under  the  belief  of  possessing  the  most  perfect  de 
mocracy,  you  may  not  find  that  you  have  insensibly  attained  a 
point  more  remote  from  it,  than  every  other  republic.  Recollect, 
that  when  the  Roman  senate  was  compelled  to  renounce  its 
principles  of  tyranny,  the  very  traces  of  it  were  supposed  to  be 
effaced,  by  granting  to  the  people  a  participation  of  the  consu 
lar  honours.  That  numerous  and  oppressed  class  found  them 
selves  exalted  by  the  prospect  alone  which  now  lay  open  to  a 
small  number  of  their  body,  the  greatest  part  of  them  remain 
ed  necessitous,  but  they  consoled  themselves  by  saying,  we  may 
one  day  become  consuls.  Now,  observe,  sir,  that  in  your  present 
form  of  government,  you  have  not  attached  either  sufficient 
grandeur,  or  dignity  to  any  place,  to  render  its  possessor  illus 
trious,  still  less  the  whole  class  from  which  he  may  be  chosen. 
You  have  thrown  far  from  you  all  hereditary  honours,  but  have 
you  bestowed  sufficient  personal  distinctions  ?  Have  you  re 
flected  that  these  distinctions,  far  from  being  less  considerable 
than  those  which  took  place  among  the  Greeks  and  Romans, 
ought  rather  to  surpass  them  ?  The  reason  of  this  is  very  ob 
vious  :  the  effect  of  honours  and  distinctions  is  by  so  much  the 
more  marked,  as  it  operates  on  the  greater  number  of  men  as- 


CORRESPON  DENCE.  375 

sembled  together.  When  Cneius  Duillius  was  conducted  home 
on  his  return  from  supper  to  the  sound  of  instruments,  the  whole 
city  of  Rome  was  witness  to  his  triumph :  grant  the  same  ho 
nours  to  Governor  Trumbull  :*  three  houses  at  most  in  Lebanon 
will  hear  the  symphony.  Men  must  be  moved  by  some  fixed 
principle ;  is  it  not  better  that  this  should  be  by  vanity  than 
interest  ?  I  have  no  doubt  that  love  of  country  will  always 
prove  a  powerful  motive,  but  do  not  flatter  yourself  that  this 
will  long  exist  with  the  same  spirit.  The  greatest  efforts  of 
the  mind,  like  those  of  the  body,  are  in  resistance ;  and  the 
same  may  happen  with  respect  to  the  state,  as  in  matters  of 
opinion,  to  which  we  cease  to  be  attached,  when  they  cease  to 
be  contested. 

Behold  many  objects,  Sir,  which  have  passed  in  review  be 
fore  us.  We  have  only  glanced  at  them,  but  to  distinguish 
them  more  clearly,  requires  more  penetrating  eyes  than  mine  ; 
you  hold  the  telescope  ;  do  you  apply  your  optics  and  you 
will  make  good  use  of  them.  My  task  will  be  accomplished  if 
I  can  only  prove  to  you  that  these  inquiries  are  not  foreign  to 
my  subject.  I  shall  observe  then  that  to  know  to  what  pre 
cise  point,  and  on  what  principle  you  should  admit  the  arts 
and  sciences  in  your  nation,  it  is  necessary  first  to  understand 
its  natural  tendency  ;  for  we  may  direct  the  course  of  rivers, 
but  not  to  repel  them  to  their  source.  Now,  to  discover  the 
natural  tendency  of  a  nation,  not  only  must  we  examine  its  ac 
tual  legislation,  but  the  oppositions  which  may  exist  between 
the  government  and  prejudices,  between  the  laws  and  habits  ; 
the  reaction,  in  short,  which  these  different  moving  powers 
may  produce,  one  upon  the  other.  In  the  present  instance, 
for  example,  it  is  important  to  foresee  to  what  degree  the  de 
mocracy  is  likely  to  prevail  in  America,  and  whether  the  spirit 
of  that  democracy  tends  to  the  equality  of  fortunes,  or  is  confi 
ned  to  the  equality  of  ranks.  It  is  melancholy  to  confess,  that 
it  is  to  a  very  great  inequality  in  the  distribution  of  wealth,  that 
the  fine  arts  are  indebted  for  their  most  brilliant  eras.  In  the 
time  of  Pericles,  immense  treasures  were  concentred  in  Athens, 
unappropriated  to  any  particular  purpose  ;  under  the  reign  of 
Augustus,  Rome  owed  her  acquisition  of  the  fine'arfs  to  the 
spoils  of  the  world,  if  the  fine  arts  were  ever  really  naturalized 
at  Rome  ;  and  under  that  of  the  Julii  and  Leo  the  tenth.  Ec 
clesiastic  pomp  and  riches,  pushed  to  the  highest  point,  gave 
birth  to  the  prodigies  of  that  famous  age.  But  these  epochas, 


*  Mr.  Trumbull,  Governor  of  Connecticut,  inhabits  the  town  of 
Lebanon,  which  occupies  a  league  of  country,  and  where  there  are  not 
six  houses  less  distant  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  each  other. 


37(5  CORRESPONDENCE. 

so  celebrated  in  the  history  of  the  arts,  are  either  those  of  their 
birth,  or  of  their  revival;  and  similar  circumstances  are  not 
necessary  to  maintain  them  in  the  flourishing  and  prosperous 
state  they  have  attained.  There  is  one  circumstance,  howev 
er,  which  we  have  not  yet  touched  upon,  and  which  seems  in 
dispensable,  as  well  for  their  preservation,  as  for  their  establish 
ment.  The  arts,  let  us  not  doubt  it,  can  never  flourish,  but 
where  there  is  a  great  number  of  men.  They  must  have  large 
cities,  they  must  have  capitals:  America  possesses  already 
five,  which  seem  ready  for  their  reception,  which  you  will 
yourself  name  ;  Boston,  New- York,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore, 
and  Charleston.  But  they  are  seaports,  and  commerce,  it  can 
not  be  dissembled,  has  more  magnificence  than  taste  ;  it  pays, 
rather  than  encourages  artists. — There  are  two  great  ques 
tions  to  resolve,  whether  large  towns  are  useful  or  prejudicial 
to  America,  and  whether  commercial  towns  should  be  the  ca 
pitals.  Perhaps  it  will  be  imagined,  that  the  first  question  is 
answered  by  the  sole  reflection,  that  rural  life  is  best  suited  to 
mankind,  contributing  the  most  to  their  happiness,  and  the 
maintenance  of  virtue,  without  which  there  can  be  no  happi 
ness.  But  it  must  be  remembered,  that  this  same  virtue,  those 
happy  dispositions,  those  peaceable  amusements,  we  enjoy  in 
the  country,  are  not  unfrequently  acquisitions  made  in  towns. 
If  nature  be  nothing  for  him  who  has  not  learnt  to  observe  her, 
retirement  is  sterile  for  the  man  without  information.  Now 
this  information  is  to  be  acquired  best  in  towns.  Let  us  not 
3onfound  the  man  retired  into  the  country,  with  the  man  edu- 
3ated  in  the  country.  The  former  is  the  most  perfect  of  his 
species,  and  the  latter  frequently  does  not  merit  to  belong  to 
it.  In  a  word,  one  must  have  education  ;  I  will  say  farther, 
one  must  have  lived  with  a  certain  number  of  mankind  to  know 
how  to  live  well  in  one's  own  family.  To  abridge  the  ques 
tion,  shall  I  content  myself  with  expressing  to  you  my  wishes  9 
I  should  desire  that  each  state  of  America,  as  far  as  it  is  prac 
ticable,  had  a  capital  to  be  the  seat  of  government,  but  not  a 
commercial  city.  I  should  desire  that  their  capital  were  situa 
ted  in  the  centre  of  the  republic,  so  that  every  citizen,  rich 
enough  to  look  after  the  education  of  his  children,  and  to  taste 
the  pleasures  of  society,  might  inhabit  it  for  some  months  of 
the  year,  without  making  it  his  only  residence,  without  re 
nouncing  his  invaluable  country-seat.  I  should  desire  that  at 
a  small  distance,  but  more  considerable  than  that  which  sepa 
rates  Cambridge  from  Boston,  an  university  might  be  establish 
ed,  where  civil  and  public  law,  and  all  the  higher  sciences, 
should  be  taught,  in  a  course  of  study,  not  to  be  commenced 
before  the  age  of  fourteen,  and  to  be  of  only  three  years'  dura 
tion.  I  should  desire,  in  short,  that  in  this  capital  and  its  ap~ 


CORRESPONDENCE.  377 

pendage,  the  true  national  spirit  might  be  preserved,  like  the 
sacred  fire ;  that  is  to  say,  that  spirit  which  perfectly  assimi 
lates  with  liberty  and  public  happiness.  For  we  must  never 
flatter  ourselves  with  the  hopes  of  modifying,  after  our  plea 
sure,  commercial  towns.  Commerce  is  more  friendly  to  indi 
vidual  than  to  public  liberty,*  it  discriminates  not  between 
citizens  and  strangers.  A  trading  town  is  a  common  recepta 
cle,  where  every  man  transports  his  manners,  his  opinions,  and 
his  habits ;  arid  the  best  are  not  always  the  most  prevalent. 
English,  French,  Italian,  all  mix  together,  all  lose  a  little  of 
their  distinctive  character,  and  in  turn  communicate  a  portion 
of  it ;  so  that  neither  defects  nor  vices  appear  in  their  genuine 
light ;  as,  in  the  paintings  of  great  artists,  the  different  tints  of 
light  are  so  blended,  as  to  leave  no  particular  colour  in  its  pri 
mitive  and  natural  state. 

Though  it  seems  impossible  to  conclude  this  article  without 
speaking  of  luxury,  I  have,  notwithstanding,  some  reluctance  to 
employ  a  term,  the  sense  of  which  is  not  well  ascertained.  To 
avoid  here  .all  ambiguity,  I  shall  consider  it  only  as  an  expense, 
abusive  in  its  relations,  whether  with  the  fortune  of  individuals,  or 
with  their  situation.  In  the  former  case,  the  idea  of  luxury  ap 
proaches  that  of  dissipation,  and  in  the  latter,  that  of  ostenta- 


*  I  cannot  here  omit  an  anecdote  which  places,  in  a  strong  point  of 
view,  the  distinction  between  individual  and  public  liberty,  made  by 
the  mere  merchant.  In  the  early  part  of  life  I  spent  some  years  in  the 
comptirig-house  of  one  of  the  most  considerable  merchants  of  the  city 
of  London,  a  native  of  Switzerland,  for  the  moderate  premium  of  one 
thousand  guineas.  This  happening  to  be  the  period  of  the  violent  un 
constitutional  proceedings  against  Mr.  Wilkes,  the  foreign  merchant 
differing  from  the  English  apprentice,  entered  with  zeal  into  all  the 
measures  of  the  then  administration,  which,  though  a  republican  by 
birth,  he  maintained  with  all  the  virulence  of  the  tools  of  despotism. 
The  American  war  followed,  and  this  gentleman  was  no  less  active  with 
offers  of  his  life  and  fortune,  from  his  compting-house  in  the  city,  in 
support  of  the  arbitrary  views  of  the  same  set  of  men,  accompanied  on 
all  occasions  with  positions  destructive  of  every  idea  of  public  charity. 
But  mark  the  difference,  when  individual  liberty  was  in  question. 
Happening  to  dine  with  Mr.  John  Pringle,  of  Philadelphia,  in  1782, 
the  conversation  fell  on  this  merchant,  who  is  at  present  one  of  the 
first  in  the  world,  and  some  questions  were  asked  me  respecting  his 
politics  ;  my  answers  corresponded  with  what  I  have  above  said  of 
him  ;  but  judge  of  my  astonishment,  when  Mr.  Pringle  assured  me, 
smiling,  and  gave  me  ocular  demonstration  of  the  fact,  that  America 
had  not  a  better  friend  ;  producing,  at  the  same  time,  an  invoice  of  a 
cargo  of  gunpowder  shipped  by  his  order  on  joint  account,  for  the 

Rebels  of  America,  at  L'Orient,  by  which  this  Mr. ,  of  London, 

cleared  near  £10,000  sterling  !  \-Trans. 

48 


378  CORRESPON  DENCE. 

lion.  Let  us  illustrate  this  thought  by  an  example  :  If  a  Dutch 
merchant  spends  his  property  in  flowers  and  shells,  the  sort  of 
luxury  into  which  he  has  fallen  is  only  relative  to  his  means, 
since  his  taste  has  led  him  farther  than  his  faculties  would  ad 
mit.  But  if,  in  a  republic,  a  very  wealthy  citizen  expends  only 
a  part  of  his  fortune  in  building  a  noble  palace,  the  luxury  with 
which  he  is  reproached,  is  in  that  case  proportionable  to  his 
situation ;  it  shocks  the  public,  in  the  same  manner  as  proud 
and  arrogant  behaviour  inspires  estrangement  and  hatred. 

We  must  do  justice  to  commerce,  it  loves  enjoyments  more 
than  luxury  ;  and  if  we  see  the  merchant  sometimes  pass  the 
limits,  it  is  rather  from  imitation  than  natural  propensity.  In 
France  and  England,  we  see  some  ostentatiqus  merchants,  but 
the  example  is  given  them  by  the  nobles.  There  is  another 
more  ridiculous,  but  less  culpable  abuse,  from  which  commerce 
is  not  free  ;  which  is,  fashion.  This  must  doubtless  prevail 
wherever  there  are  many  foreigners ;  for  what  is  usage  among 
them  becomes  fashion,  when  they  establish  themselves  else 
where.  On  the  other  hand,  the  numerous  correspondences,  the 
interest  even  of  the  merchants,  which  consists  in  provoking,  in 
exciting  the  taste  of  the  consumers,  tends  to  establish  the  em 
pire  of  fashion.  What  obstacle  must  be  opposed  to  this  9  I 
propose  this  question  to  myself  with  pleasure,  as  it  leads  me 
back  to  the  fine  arts  by  an  indirect  road.  I  shall  ask,  what  has 
been  heretofore  the  remedy  for  those  caprices  of  opinion  which 
have  begot  so  many  errors,  so  many  revolutions  9  Is  it  not  rea 
son  and  philosophy  9  Well,  then  !  the  remedy  against  the  ca 
prices  of  the  fashion  is  the  study  of  the  arts,  the  knowledge  of 
abstract  beauty,  the  perfection  of  taste.  But,  what !  do  you 
hope  to  fix  the  standard  of  that  taste,  hitherto  so  variable  ? 
How  often  has  it  changed  9  How  often  will  it  not  again  vary  9 
I  shall  continue  to  answer  in  the  manner  of  Socrates,  by  inter 
rogating  myself,  and  I  shall  say,  what  ridiculous  opinions  have 
not  prevailed  in  the  world,  from  the  time  of  the  Grecian  sophists 
to  the  theologians  of  our  days  9  Has  not  reason,  however,  be 
gun  to  resume  her  rights,  and  do  you  think,  that  when  once  re 
covered,  she  will  ever  lose  them  9  Why  are  you  so  unreasona 
ble  as  to  expect  that  objects  so  frivolous  as  furniture  and  dress 
should  attain  perfection  before  religion  and  legislation  9  Let 
us  never  cease  repeating,  that  ignorance  is  the  source  of  evil, 
and  science  that  of  good.  Alas !  do  you  not  see  that  the 
Greeks,  who  had  some  how  acquired  very  early,  such  just  no 
tions  of  the  arts  and  taste  ;  do  you  not  see,  I  say,  that  they 
never  varied  in  their  modes  9  Witness  the  statues  modelled  at 
Rome  by  Grecian  artists  ;  witness  the  noble  and  elegant  mode 
of  dress  still  retained  by  that  people,  though  living  among  the 
Turks.  Erect  altars,  then,  to  the  fine  arts,  if  you  would  de- 


CORRESPONDENCE.  379 

stroy  those  of  fashion  and  caprice.  Taste,  and  learn  to  relish 
nectar  and  ambrosia,  if  you  are  afraid  of  becoming  intoxicated 
with  common  liquors. 

Perhaps,  Sir,  what  I  am  about  to  say  should  only  be  whisper 
ed  in  your  ear.  I  am  going  to  handle  a  delicate  subject ;  I  am 
venturing  to  touch  the  ark.  But  be  assured,  that  during  a 
three  years'  residence  in  America,  the  progress  of  the  women's 
dress  has  not  escaped  me.  If  I  have  enjoyed  this  as  a  feeling 
man,  if  the  results  of  this  progress  have  not  been  viewed  by  me 
with  an  indifferent  eye,  my  time  of  life  and  character  are  a, 
pledge  to  you  that  I  have  observed  them  as  a  philosopher. 
Well,  Sir,  it  is  in  this  capacity  I  undertake  their  defence,  but  so 
long  only  as  things  are  not  carried  to  an  excess.  The  virtue 
of  the  women,  which  is  more  productive  of  happiness,  even  for 
the  men,  than  all  the  enjoyments  of  vice,  if  there  be  only  real 
pleasures  arising  from  that  source  ;  the  virtue  of  the  women,  I 
say,  has  two  bucklers  of  defence ;  one  is  retirement,  and  dis 
tance  from  all  danger  :  this  is  the  hidden  treasure  mentioned 
by  Rochefoucault,  which  is  untouched,  because  it  is  undisco 
vered.  The  other  is  loftiness,  a  sentiment  always  noble  in  its 
relation  to  ourselves.  Let  them  learn  to  appreciate  themselves ; 
let  them  rise  in  their  own  estimation,  and  rely  on  that  estimable 
pride  for  the  preservation  of  their  virtue  as  well  as  of  their  fame. 
They  who  love  only  pleasure,  corrupt  the  sex,  whom  they  con 
vert  only  into  an  instrument  of  their  voluptuousness  ;  they  who 
love  women,  render  them  better  by  rendering  them  more  amia 
ble.  But,  you  will  say,  is  it  by  dress,  and  by  exterior  charms, 
that  they  must  establish  their  empire  6?  Yes,  Sir,  every  woman 
ought  to  seek  to  please ;  this  is  the  weapon  conferred  on  her 
by  nature  to  compensate  the  weakness  of  her  sex.  Without 
this  she  is  a  slave,  and  can  a  slave  have  virtues  9  Remember 
the  word  deeus,  of  which  we  have  formed  decency  ;  its  original 
import  is  ornament.  A  filthy  and  negligent  woman  is  not  de 
cent,  she  cannot  inspire  respect.  I  have  already  allowed  my 
self  to  express  my  opinion  by  my  wishes  :  I  desire,  then,  that 
all  the  American  women  may  be  well  dressed ;  but  I  have  no 
objection  to  seeing  that  dress  simple.  They  are  not  formed  to 
represent  the  severity  of  the  legislation  ;  neither  ought  they  to 
contrast  with  it,  and  convey  a  tacit  insult  on  that  severity. 
Gold,  silver,  and  diamonds,  then,  shall  be  banished  from  Ame 
rican  dress ;  what  excuse  can  there  be  for  a  luxury  which  is 
not  becoming  9  But  this  indulgence,  Sir,  which  I  have  express 
ed  for  the  toilet  of  the  women,  I  am  far  from  allowing  to  the 
men.  I  am  not  afraid  to  say,  that  I  should  have  a  very  bad 
opinion  of  them,  if  in  a  country  where  there  are  neither  eti 
quette  nor  titles,  nor  particular  distinctions,  they  should  ever 
give  into  the  luxury  of  dress ;  a  luxury,  which  even  the  French 


3SO  CORRESPONDENCE. 

have  laid  aside,  except  on  marriages  and  entertainments,  and 
which  no  longer  exists  any  where  but  in  Germany  and  Italy, 
where  certainly  you  will  not  go  in  search  of  models. 

Observe,  Sir,  that  we  have  imperceptibly  prepared  the  way 
for  the  fine  arts,  by  removing  the  principal  obstacles  which 
might  be  opposed  to  them ;  for  if,  far  from  rendering  nations 
vain  and  frivolous,  they  rather  tend  to  preserve  them  from  the 
excesses  of  luxury,  and  the  caprices  of  fashion,  they  can  cer 
tainly  be  considered  neither  as  dangerous  nor  prejudicial.  Still, 
perhaps,  you  will  retain  some  scruple  on  the  article  of  luxury; 
but  recollect,  sir,  if  you  please,  the  definition  I  have  given  of  it, 
and  if  you  reflect  that  every  fortune  which  exceeds  the  neces 
sary  demands,  insensibly  produces  some  sort  of  personal  riches, 
such  as  valuable  furniture,  gold  and  silver  trinkets,  sumptuous 
services  of  plate,  &c.  you  must  perceive  that  this  constant  sur 
plus  of  annual  income  would  be  infinitely  better  bestowed  on 
painting,  sculpture,  and  other  productions  of  the  arts.  Luxu 
ry,  we  have  said,  is  often  an  abusive  employ  of  riches,  relatively 
to  the  condition  of  him  who  possesses  them.  Now,  what  os 
tentation  is  there  in  possessing  a  fine  painting,  of  a  handsome 
statue  ?  Surely  the  parade  of  a  magnificent  side-board  will  be 
more  offensive  to  the  sight  of  an  unwealthy  neighbour,  than  an 
elegant  cabinet  adorned  with  paintings.  I  doubt,  even,  whe 
ther  the  man  who  keeps  a  musician  in  his  pay,  be  so  much  an 
object  of  envy  as  him  who  maintains  race-horses  and  a  pack  of 
hounds. 

But  let  us  go  farther  ;  it  is  not  only  the  productions  of  the 
fine  arts  of  which  I  wish  to  procure  the  possession  to  America  ; 
the  fine  arts  themselves  must  be  placed  within  her  bosom.  If 
I  am  desirous  of  her  purchasing  pictures,  it  is  that  she  may  have 
painters  ;*  if  I  encourage  her  to  send  for  musicians,  it  is  that 


*  America,  in  her  infant  state,  has  already  burst  forth  into  the  full 
splendour  of  maturity  in  the  immortal  paintings  of  a  Copley  and  a 
West.  Further  glory  still  attends  her  early  progress  even  in  the  pre 
sent  day,  in  a  Stewart,  a  Trumbull,  and  a  Brown  ;  nor  is  Peale  un 
worthy  of  ranking  with  many  modern  painters  of  no  inconsiderable 
fame  ;  ages  may  possibly  not  elapse  before  posterity  may  apply  to  Ame 
rica,  what  Mr.  Tickell  has  said,  so  happily  heretofore  of  the  mother 
country, 

See  on  her  Titian's  and  her  Guide's  urn?, 

Her  fallen  arts  forlorn  Hesperia  mourns  : 

While  Britain  wins  each  garland  from  her  brow, 

Her  wit  and  freedom  first,  her  painting  now. 

Forjwf,  let  me  refer  the  reader  of  taste  to  the  poem  of  Mac  Fingal, 
written  by  another  Trumbull  of  Connecticut,  who  is  justly  styled  the 
American  Hudibras.  Qualifi  ab  incepto  processerit*  ac  sibi.  constet, 
r— Trans. 


CORRESPONDENCE.  381 

she  may  become  musical  in  her  turn.  Let  her  not  apprehend 
the  fate  of  the  Romans,  to  whom  she  has  the  apparent  pride, 
but  the  real  humility  to  compare  herself.  The  Romans,  fero 
cious,  unjust,  grasping  from  character,  and  ostentatious  from 
vanity,  were  able  to  purchase  the  master-pieces,  but  not  the 
taste  of  the  arts.  The  Americans  proceeding  in  general  from 
the  most  polished  countries  of  Europe,  have  not  to  strip  them 
selves  of  any  barbarous  prejudices.  They  ought  rather  to 
compare  themselves  with  the  Greek  colonies  ;  and  certainly, 
Syracuse  Marseilles,  Crotona,  and  Agrigentum  had  no  reason 
to  envy  the  mother  country.  There  is  one  base  on  which,  all 
they  who  like  you  are  equally  attached  to  good  taste  and  to 
your  country,  may  safely  rest  their  hopes.  Your  fellow-citi 
zens  live,  and  will  long  continue  to  live,  in  the  vicinity  of  na 
ture  ;  she  is  continually  under  their  hands ;  she  is  always  great 
and  beautiful.  Let  them  study  ;  let  them  consult  her,  and  they 
can  never  go  astray.  Caution  them  only,  not  to  build  too 
much  on  the  pedantic  legislations  of  Cambridge,  of  Oxford, 
and  Edinburgh,  which  have  long  assumed  a  sort  of  tyranny  in 
the  empire  of  opinion,  and  seem  only  to  have  composed  a  vast 
classic  code  for  no  other  purpose  than  to  keep  all  mankind  in 
class,  as  if  they  were  still  children. 

Thus,  Sir,  you  will  have  the  complete  enjoyment  of  the 
fine  arts  ;  since  you  will  yourselves  be  artists  :  but  is  it  not  to 
be  feared,  that  the  powerful  attraction  with  which  they  ope 
rate  on  sensible  minds,  may  divert  a  rising  people  from  several 
more  useful,  though  less  agreeable  occupations  9  I  am  far 
from  being  of  that  opinion  ;  I  think,  on  the  contrary,  that  the 
most  distinctive,  and  most  peculiar  advantage  of  America  is 
that  the  rapid  advances  she  is  making  are  not  laborious,  that 
they  are  not  due  to  the  excess  of  labour.  Every  American  has 
twice  as  much  leisure  in  the  day  as  an  European.  Necessity 
alone  compels  our  painful  efforts  and  you  are  strangers  to  ne 
cessity.  Besides  that,  your  winters  are  long  and  rigorous,  and 
many  hours  may  be  well  spared  to  domestic  society  ;  this  re 
flection  too,  is  applicable  only  to  the  lower  classes  of  the  peo 
ple.  You,  who  live  in  Virginia,  know  what  time  is  sacrificed 
to  play,  to  hunting,  and  the  table  ;  much  more  than  is  necessa 
ry  to  form  a  Phidias  or  a  Polycletes. 

You  will  insist,  perhaps,  and  you  will  ask,  whether  a  taste 
for  the  arts  and  letters  will  not  tend  to  render  your  fellow-citi 
zens  effeminate  ?  Whether  it  will  not  render  them  frivo 
lous  and  vain  ?  Whether  the  national  character  and  manners 
will  not  necessarily  be  impaired,  and  admitting  even  their  utili 
ty,  you  will  desire  to  have  their  early  progress,  at  least,  con 
ducted  with  a  certain  measure  ?  I  think,  that  you  will  find 
an  answer  to  our  present  inquiry  in  many  of  the  preceding  obser 
vations.  But  it  is  time  for  me  to  establish  a  general  principle. 


:382  CORRESPONDENCE. 

the  extensive  consequences  of  which  you  will  develope  better 
than  I  can  ;  as  long  as  a  taste  for  the  arts  can  assimilate  itself  with 
rural  and  domestic  life,  it  will  always  be  advantageous  to  your 
country r,  and  vice  versa. — Public  spectacles,  gaudy  assemblies, 
horse-races,  &c.,  drag  both  men  and  women  from  the  country, 
and  inspire  them  with  a  disgust  for  it.  Music,  drawing,  paint 
ing,  architecture,  attach  all  persons  to  their  homes.  A  harpsi 
chord  is  a  neighbour  always  at  command,  who  answers  all 
your  questions,  and  never  calumniates.  Three  or  four  persons 
in  the  neighbourhood  join  to  pass  the  evening  together  ;  here 
is  a  concert  ready  formed.  A  young  lady,  in  her  irksome  mo 
ments,  amuses  herself  in  drawing  ;  when  she  becomes  a  wife 
and  mother,  she  still  draws,  that  she  may  instruct  her  children  ; 
and  here  is  another  important  article,  of  which  I  had  hitherto 
taken  no  notice.  Do  you  wish  your  children  to  remain  long 
attached  to  you  ?  Be  yourselves  their  teachers.  Education 
augments  and  prolongs  the  relation  that  subsists  between  you  ; 
it  adds  to  the  consideration,  the  respect  they  entertain  for  you. 
They  must  long  be  persuaded,  that  we  know  more  than  them, 
and  that  he  who  teaches  always  knows  more  than  the  person 
to  be  taught.  In  America,  as  in  England,  parents  spoil  their 
children  when  they  are  young,  and  they  abandon  them  to 
themselves  when  they  grow  up ;  for,  in  these  two  nations,  edu 
cation  is  neither  enough  attended  to,  nor  sufficiently  prolong 
ed.  Indulgent  to  children  in  their  tender  age,  the  people 
there  form  them  into  petty  domestic  tyrants  ;  negligent  of 
them  when  they  attain  to  adolescency,  they  convert  them  into 
strangers. 

At  present,  Sir,  it  seems  to  me,  that  there  remains  no  good 
reason  to  hinder  us  from  attracting  the  fine  arts  to  America. 
Unfortunately  it  is  not  the  same  with  artists.  I  do  not  think 
I  can  better  express  my  good  opinion  of  the  Americans,  than 
by  declaring  that  they  will  always  incur  some  risk  in  receiving 
a  foreigner  among  them.  The  Europeans,  it  must  be  confessed 
have  vices  from  which  you  are  exempt,  and  they  are  not  in  ge 
neral,  the  best  among  them  who  quit  their  country,  especially 
who  pass  the  seas.  Let  us,  however,  do  this  justice  to  painters, 
and  sculptors,  that  the  assiduity  of  their  labours,  and  above 
all  that  the  sentiment  of  the  beautiful,  that  delicacy  of  taste 
which  they  have  acquired,  render  them,  generally  speaking, 
better  than  other  men. — It  is  different  with  respect  to  music 
and  dancing.  Custom  has  thought  proper  to  place  the  latter 
among  the  fine  arts,  nor  do  I  oppose  it,  since  it  seems.to  improve 
our  exterior,  and  to  give  us  that  decorum,  the  source  of  which 
is  the  respect  of  others,  and  of  ourselves.  But  this  apology 
for  the  art,  does  not  constitute  that  of  its  professors.  Distrust 
in  general  the  masters  who  come  to  you  from  Europe  ;  be  dif- 
fid^nteven  of  those  you  may  yourselves  send  for.  It  will  al- 


CORRESPONDENCE.  &** 

ways  be  much  safer  not  to  trust  to  chance,  but  to  make  sub 
scriptions  in  each  state,  in  each  town,  to  engage  artists  to  fix 
themselves  among  you  ;  but  in  this  case  apply  only  to  corres 
pondents  in  Europe  on  whom  you  may  rely.  The  commission 
with  which  you  entrust  them,  ought  to  be  sacred  in  their  eyes, 
and  the  smallest  negligence  on  their  parts,  would  be  highly 
criminal  ;  yet  even  they  are  liable  to  be  deceived  ;  and  as  it 
is  much  better  to  defer  even  for  a  long  time,  the  progress  of 
the  arts,  than  to  make  the  slightest  step  towards  the  corruption 
of  your  manners,  it  is  my  principal  recommendation  to  the 
Americans  to  naturalize  as  nuch  as  possible,  all  foreign  artists  ; 
to  assimilate  and  identify  them  with  the  inhabitants  of  the 
country ;  to  effect  which,  I  see  no  better  method  than  by  ma 
king  them  husbands  and  proprietors ;  act  so  as  to  induce  them 
to  marry,  enable  them  to  acquire  lands,  and  to  become  citizens. 
It  is  thus  that  by  securing  the  empire  of  morals,  you  will  still 
farther  guard  against  the  effect  of  those  national  prejudices,  of 
that  disdain  which  render  foreigners  so  ridiculous  and  odious, 
and  which  reflect  upon  the  art  itself,  the  disgust  inspired  by 
the  artist. 

Henceforward,  Sir,  let  us  enlarge  our  views ;  the  fine  arts  are 
adapted  to  America :  they  have  already  made  some  progress 
there,  they  will  eventually  make  much  greater  ;  no  obstacle,  no 
reasonable  objection  can  stop  them  in  their  career ;  these  are 
points  at  least  on  which  we  are  agreed.  Let  us  now  see  to 
what  purposes  they  may  be  converted  by  the  public,  the  state, 
and  the  government.  Here,  a  vast  field  opens  to  our  specula 
tion,  but  as  it  is  exposed  to  every  eye,  I  shall  fix  mine  on  the 
object  with  which  it  has  most  forcibly  been  struck.  Recollect, 
Sir,  what  I  have  said  above,  relative  to  offices  and  public  dig 
nities  ;  I  have  remarked  that  a  jealousy,  possibly  well  founded 
in  itself,  but  pushed  to  the  extreme,  had  made  honours  too  rare, 
and  rewards  too  moderate  among  you.  Call  in  the  fine  arts  to 
the  aid  of  a  timid  legislation  ;  the  latter  confers  neither  rank, 
nor  permanent  distinction  ;  let  her  bestow  statues,  monuments 
and  medals.  Astonished  Europe,  in  admiring  a  Washington, 
a  Warren,  a  Green,  and  a  Montgomery,  demands  what  recom 
pense  can  repay  their,  services  ;  behold  that  recompense,  wor 
thy  of  them  and  of  you.  Let  all  the  great  towns  in  America 
present  statues  of  Washington,  with  this  inscription  :  pater,  li 
berator,  defensor  patrice ;  let  us  see  also  those  of  Hancock  and 
of  Adams,  with  only  two  words,  primi  proscripti ;  that  of  Frank 
lin,  with  the  Latin  verse  inscribed  in  France  below  his  portrait, 
(eripuit  ccelo  fulmen,  sceptrumque  tyranni,  fyc.  fyc.*)  what  glory 

*  *  This  verse  is  of  that  virtuous  politician  and  good  man,  Mr.  Tur- 
got.  The  translator  has  inserted  it,  as  it  seems  by  the  author's  omit 
ting  it,  to  be  of  too  high  a  flavour  for  the  French  censure. — Trans. 


384  CORRESPONDENCE. 

would  not  this  reflect  upon  America !  It  would  be  found  that 
she  has  already  more  heroes,  than  she  could  procure  marble 
and  artists  ;*  and  your  public  halls,  your  curia,  why  should  not 


*  Although  it  be  highly  proper  to  insist  upon  this  sort  of  recompense 
it  may  not  be  amiss  that  the  world  should  know  that  congress,  as  far  as 
opportunity  would  admit,  have  not  been  remiss  in  bestowing  such  ho 
nourable  rewards,  which  they  have  decreed  in  different  forms  on  every 
suitable  occasion  to  the  Baron  de  Kalb,  &c.  &>c.  and  a  marble  monu 
ment  was  voted  by  that  body  to  the  memory  of  my  inestimable  friend, 
Montgomery,  soon  after  his  glorious  fall,  in  the  following  words  : 
Extract  from  the  Journals  of  Congress. 

Thursday,  January  25,  1776. 

"  The  committee  appointed  to  consider  of  a  proper  method  of  pay 
ing  a  just  tribute  of  gratitude  to  the  memory  of  General  Montgomery, 
brought  in  their  report,  which  was  as  follows  : 

"  It  being  riot  only  a  tribute  of  gratitude  justly  due  to  the  memory  of 
those  who  have  peculiarly  distinguished  themselves  in  the  glorious  cause 
of  liberty,  to  perpetuate  their  names  by  the  most  durable  monuments 
erected  to  their  honour,  but  also  greatly  conducive  to  inspire  posterity 
with  emulation  of  their  illustrious  actions  : 

"  Resolved,  That  to  express  the  veneration  of  the  United  Colonies  for 
their  late  general,  Richard  Montgomery,  and  the  deep  sense  they  entertain 
of  the  many  signal  and  important  services  of  that  gallant  officer,  who. 
after  a  series  of  successes,  amidst  the  most  discouraging  difficulties, 
fell  at  length  in  a  gallant  attack  upon  Quebec  the  capital  of  Canada  ; 
and  to  transmit  to  future  ages,  as  examples  truly  worthy  of  imitation, 
his  patriotism,  conduct,  boldness  of  enterprise,  insuperable  perseve 
rance,  and  contempt  of  danger  arid  death  ;  a  monument  be  procured 
from  Paris,  or  other  part  of  France,  with  an  inscription  sacred  to  his 
memory,  and  expressive  of  his  amiable  character,  and  heroic  achieve 
ments,  and  that  the  continental  treasurers  be  directed  to  advance  a  sum 
not  exceeding  £300  sterling  to  Dr.  Benjamin  Franklin,  who  is  desired 
to  see  this  resolution  properly  executed,  for  defraying  the  expense 
thereof." 

This  resolve  was  carried  into  execution  at  Paris,  by  that  ingenious 
artist,  Mr.  Caffiers,  sculptor  to  the  king  of  France,  under  the  direction 
of  Dr.  Franklin.  The  monument  is  of  white  marble,  of  the  most 
beautiful  simplicity,  and  inexpressible  elegance,  with  emblematical  de 
vices,  and  the  following  truly  classical  inscription,  worthy  of  the  mo 
dest,  but  great  mind  of  a  Franklin : — To  the  glory  of  Richard  Mont 
gomery,  Major-General  of  the  Armiesof  the  United  States  of  America, 
slain  at  the  siege  of  Quebec,  the  31st  of  December,  1775,  aged  38 
years. 

The  academy  of  inscriptions  and  Belles  Lettres,  have  composed 
medals  for  the  Generals  Washington,  Green,  Gates,  Morgan,  &c.  The 
state  of  Virginia  also  sent  for  Monsieur  Houdon,  the  statuary,  from 
Paris  to  America  since  the  war  expressly  to  take  a  model,  in  order  to 
form  the  statue  of  General  Washington  ;  an  example,  however,  which 


CORRESPONDENCE.  3S5 

they  offer  in  relief,  and  paintings,  the  battles  of  Bunker's  Hill, 
of  Saratoga,  of  Trenton,  of  Princeton,  of  Monmouth,  of  Cow- 
pens,  of  Eutaw  Springs  ?  Thus  would  you  perpetuate  the 


congress  do  not  think  proper  to  follow,  during  the  lifetime  of  the  ge 
neral,  for  reasons  which  may  possibly  not  be  disapproved  of,  by  the 
Marquis  de  Chastellux,  even  in  so  unexceptionable  an  instance. 

Over  this  monument,  the  translator  who  was  the  intimate  friend  of 
this  excellent  young  man,  shed  an  affectionate,  tributary  tear,  when  at 
Paris  in  the  year  1777.  He  had  long  known  and  looked  up  to  him  with 
admiration,  for  he  was  deep  in  the  secrets  of  his  head  and  heart.  His 
attachment  to  liberty  was  innate,  and  matured  by  a  fine  education,  and 
a  glorious  understanding.  The  translator,  whilst  he  indulged  his  pri 
vate  sorrow  at  the  sight  of  this  sad,  though  noble  testimonial  of  his 
friend's  transcendent  virtues,  felt  his  mind  awed  and  overwhelmed  with 
the  magnitude  of  the  event  which  led  to  this  catastrophe,  and  with  re 
flections  on  the  wonderful  revolutions,  and  extraordinary  dispensations 
of  human  affairs.  But  a  few  months,  and  he  had  seen  the  deceased 
hero,  an  officer  in  the  service  of  England  ;  an  officer,  too,  of  the  most 
distinguished  merit,  who  had  fought  her  battles  successfully  with  the 
immortal  Wolfe  at  Quebec,  the  very  spot  on  which  fighting  under  the 
standard  of  freedom,  he  was  doomed  to  fall  in  arms  against  her  ;  but 
a  few  months,  and  he  sees  his  dead  friend  the  subject  of  a  monument, 
consecrated  to  his  memory  by  the  united  voice  of  a  free  people,  and 
Ids  monument,  and  his  fame,  as  a  victim  to  tyranny,  and  a  champion 
of  freedom,  consigned  to  be  celebrated  by  an  enslaved  people,  against 
whom  he  had  often  fought  in  defence  of  the  same  cause,  in  which  he 
sacrificed  his  life.  There  is  a  remarkable  circumstance  connected 
with  his  fall,  which  merits  to  be  recorded.  One  of  General  Montgo 
mery's  aids-de-camp,  was  Mr.  Macpherson,  a  most  promising  young 
man,  whose  father  resided  at  Philadelphia,  and  was  greatly  distinguished 
in  privateering  in  the  war  of  1756.  This  gentleman  had  a  brother  in 
the  16th  regiment  in  the  British  service,  at  the  time  of  Montgomery's 
expedition  into  Canada,  and  who  was  as  violent  in  favour  of  the  Eng 
lish  government,  as  this  general's  aid-de-camp  was  enthusiastic  in  the 
cause  of  America  ;  the  latter  had  accompanied  his  general  a  day  or 
two  previous  to  the  attack  in  which  they  both  lost  their  lives,  to  view 
and  meditate  on  the  spot  where  Wolfe  had  fallen  ;  on  his  return,  he 
found  a  letter  from  his  brother,  the  English  officer,  full  of  the  bitterest 
reproaches  against  him  for  having  entered  into  the  American  service, 
and  containing  a  pretty  direct  wish,  that  if  he  would  not  abandon  it,  he 
might  meet  with  the  deserved  fate  of  a  rebel.  The  aid-de-camp  im 
mediately  returned  him  an  answer  full  of  strong  reasoning  in  defence 
of  his  conduct,  but  by  no  means  attempting  to  shake  the  opposite  prin 
ciples  of  his  brother,  and  not  only  free  from  acrimony,  but  full  of  ex 
pressions  of  tenderness  and  affection  ;  this  letter  he  dated  "  from  the 
spot  where  Wolfe  lost  his  life,  in  fighting  the  cause  of  England,  in 
friendship  with  America."  This  letter  had  scarcely  reached  the  officer 
at  New-York,  before  it  was  followed  by  the  news  of  Ms  brother's  death. 

49 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

memory  of  these  glorious  deeds ;  thus  would  you  maintain, 
even  through  a  long  peace,  that  national  pride,  so  necessary 
to  the  preservation  of  liberty  ;  and  you  might,  without  alarm 
ing  even  that  liberty,  lavish  rewards  equal  to  the  sacrifices  she 
has  received.* 

It  would  be  injurious,  Sir,  to  you  and  to  your  country,  to  in 
sist  longer  on  these  reflections  :  my  attention  is  excited  by  a 
fresh  object,  but  I  should  regard  it  also  as  an  offence,  to  enter 
tain  an  idea  that  it  is  necessary  to  call  the  attention  of  America 
to  this  object,  you  are  desirous  that  the  progress  of  the  scien 
ces  also  should  enter  into  your  deliberations.  Is  it  possible 
not  to  foresee  their  progress  in  a  country  already  so  celebrated 
for  its  academies,  and  universities,  which  rival  those  of  the  old 
world  ;  for  its  learned  men,  I  will  go  farther,  for  its  men  of 
distinguished  genius,  whose  names  alone  will  mark  famous 
epochas  in  the  history  of  the  human  mind.f  Doubt  not,  Sir, 


The  effect  was  instantaneous  :  nature,  and  perhaps  reason  prevailed  ; 
a  thousand  not  unworthy  sentiments  rushed  upon  his  distressed  mind  ; 
he  quitted  the  English  service,  entered  into  that  of  America,  and 
sought  every  occasion  of  distinguishing  himself  in  her  service. — Trans. 

*  Mr.  Trumbull,  son  to  Governor  Trumbull  of  Connecticut,  who 
was  imprisoned  in  England  as  a  traitor,  whilst  he  was  studying  paint 
ing  under  Mr.  West,  is  now  at  Paris  residing  with  Mr.  Jefferson,  and 
has  finished  two  capital  pictures  of  the  death  of  Warren  and  Montgo 
mery.  They  are  esteemed  chefd'ceuvres  by  all  the  connoisseurs  in  this 
sublime  art. — Trans. 

t  Mr.  Jefferson  in  answer  to  a  prejudiced  remark  of  the  Abbe  Ray- 
nal,  who  says,  "  on  doit  etre  etone  que  1'  Amerique  noit  pas  encore 
produit  un  bon  poete,  un  habile  mathematicien,  un  homme  de  genie 
dans  un  seul  art,  ou  une  seule  science."  Mr.  Jefferson,  amidst  abun 
dance  of  good  reasoning,  says  in  answer,  "  In  war,  we  have  a  Wash 
ington,  whose  memory  will  be  adored  while  liberty  shall  have  vota 
ries,  whose  name  will  triumph  over  time  and  will  in  future  ages  assume 
its  just  station  among  the  most  celebrated  worthies  of  the  world,  when 
that  wretched  philosophy  shall  be  forgotten,  which  would  have  arranged 
him  among  the  degeneracies  of  mankind,  (see  Buffon's  system  re 
specting  animals  in  America.)  In  physics  we  have  produced  a  Frank 
lin,  than  whom  no  one  of  the  present  age  has  made  more  important 
discoveries,  nor  has  enriched  philosophy  with  more  ingenious  solu 
tions  of  the  phenomena  of  nature.  We  have  supposed  Mr.  Ritten- 
Jiouse  second  to  no  astronomer  living  :  that  in  genius  he  must  be  the 
first,  because  he  is  self-taught.  As  an  artist  he  has  exhibited  as  great 
a  proof  of  mechanical  genius  as  the  world  has  ever  produced.  He  has 
not  indeed,  made  a  world  ;  but  he  has  by  imitation  approached  nearer 
its  Maker  than  any  man  who  has  lived  from  the  creation  to  this  day, 
&c.  &c.55  There  are  various  ways,  Mr.  Jefferson  adds,  of  keeping 


CORRESPONDENCE.  387 

that  America  will  render  herself  illustrious  by  the  sciences,  as 
well  as  by  her  arms,  and  government ;  and  if  the  attention  of 
the  philosopher  be  still  necessary  to  watch  over  them,  it  is  less 
to  accelerate  than  to  remove  the  obstacles  which  might  possi 
bly  retard  their  progress.  Let  the  universities,  always  too  dog 
matical,  always  too  exclusive,  be  charged  only  to  form  good 
scholars,  and  leave  to  an  unrestrained  philosophy  the  care  of 
forming  good  men.  In  England,  the  universities  have  laboured 
to  destroy  skepticism,  and  from  that  period  philosophy  has 
been  visibly  on  the  decline,  it  seems  as  if  the  English,  in  every 
thing,  wish  only  for  a  half  liberty.  Leave  owls  and  bats  to  flut 
ter  in  the  doubtful  perspicuity  of  a  feeble  twilight ;  the  Ameri 
can  eagle  should  fix  her  eyes  upon  the  sun.  Nothing  proves 
to  me  that  it  is  not  good  to  know  the  truth,  and  what  has  error 
hitherto  produced  ? — the  misery  of  the  world. 

As  for  academies,  they  will  always  be  useful,  whilst  they 
are  very  numerous.  An  academician  is  a  senator  of  the  repub 
lic  of  letters  ;  he  takes  an  oath  to  advance  nothing  he  cannot 
prove;  he  consecrates  his  life  to  truth,  with  a  promise  to  sacri 
fice  to  it,  even  his  self-love.  Such  men  cannot  be  numerous  ; 
such  men  ought  not  to  be  thrown  into  discredit,  by  associates 
unworthy  of  them.  But  if  academical  principles  tend  to  make 
science  austere  and  scrupulous,  the  encouragements  proposed 
to  the  public  ought  to  excite  every  mind,  and  furnish  a  free 
channel  for  opinion.  Of  this  nature  are  prizes  proposed  by  the 
academies  ;  it  is  by  their  means  that  the  activity  of  men's 
minds  is  directed  towards  the  most  useful  objects;  it  is  to  them 
that  first  efforts  are  indebted  for  celebrity  ;  it  is  by  them  also 
the  young  man  thirsting  for  glory  is  dispensed  with  sighing 
long  after  her  first  favours.  The  more  the  sciences  approach 
perfection,  the  more  rare  do  discoveries  become  ;  but  America 
has  the  same  advantage  in  the  learned  world,  as  in  that  which 
constitutes  our  residence.  The  extent  of  her  empire  submits 
to  her  observation  a  large  portion  of  heaven  and  earth.  What 
observations  may  not  be  made  between  Penobscot  and  Savan 
nah  ?  between  the  lakes  and  the  ocean  ?  Natural  history  and 
astronomy  are  her  peculiar  appendages,  and  the  first  of  these 
sciences  at  least,  is  susceptible  of  great  improvement. 


truth  out  of  sight.  Mr.  Rittenhouse's  model  of  the  planetary  system 
has  the  plagiary  appellation  of  an  orrery ;  and  the  quadrant,  invented 
by  Godfrey,  an  American  also,  and  with  the  aid  of  which  the  Europe 
an  nations  traverse  the  globe,  is  called  Hadley^s  quadrant. — Thus  too, 
the  Translator  adds,  is  the  great  Columbus  robbed  of  the  honour  of 
his  name  to  America ! — Trans. 


388  CORRESPONDENCE. 

Recognise  at  least.  Sir,  in  this  feeble  essay,  my  devotion  to 
your  will,  and  the  sincere  attachment  with  which  I  have  the 
honour  to  be,  &c.  &c. 

On  board  the  frigate  L'Emeraude,  in  the  Bay  of  Chesapeake,  the 
12th  of  January,  1783. 


LETTER  II. 

FROM  GENERAL  WASHINGTON  TO  THE  MARQUIS  DE  CHASTELLUX, 

New-Windsor,  January  28,  1781. 

DEAR  SIR, — Accept  my  congratulations  on  your  safe  arrival 
at  Newport  in  good  health,  after  traversing  so  much  of  the 
American  theatre  of  war ;  and  my  thanks  for  your  obliging 
favour  of  the  12th,  making  mention  thereof,  and  introductory  of 
the  Count  de  Chartres,  whose  agreeable  countenance  alone  is 
a  sufficient  index  to  the  amiable  qualities  of  his  mind,  and  does 
not  fail  at  first  view  to  make  favourable  impressions  on  all  who 
see  him. 

He  spent  a  few  days  with  us  at  head  quarters,  and  is  gone 
to  Philadelphia,  accompanied  by  Count  de  Dillon.  I  parted 
with  him  yesterday  at  Ringwood — to  which  place  I  had  repair 
ed,  to  be  convenient  to  the  suppression  of  a  partial  meeting  of 
the  Jersey  troops  at  Pompton,  who  in  imitation  of  those  of 
Pennsylvania,  had  revolted,  and  were  in  a  state  of  disobedience 
to  their  officers.  This  business  was  happily  effected  without 
bloodshed.  Two  of  the  principal  actors  were  immediately  ex 
ecuted  on  the  spot,  and  due  subordination  restored  before  I 
returned. 

I  wish  I  had  expressions  equal  to  my  feelings,  that  I  might 
disclose  to  you  the  high  sense  I  have  of,  and  the  value  I  set 
upon,  your  approbation  and  friendship.  It  will  be  the  wish 
and  happiness  of  my  life,  to  merit  a  continuation  of  them  ;  and 
to  assure  you  upon  all  occasions  of  my  admiration  of  your  cha 
racter  and  virtues,  and  of  the  sentiments  of  esteem  and  regard 
with  which  I  have  the  honour  to  be,  dear  sir, 

Your  most  obedient  and  humble  servant, 

GEORGE  WASHINGTON'. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 


LETTER  III. 

New-Windsor,  June  13,  1781. 

MY  DEAR  CHEVALIER — I  hear  from  the  purport  of  the  letter 
you  did  me  the  honour  to  write  from  Newport  on  the  9th,  that 
my  sentiments  respecting  the  council  of  war  held  on  board  the 
Duke  de  Burgogne,  (the  31st  May,)  have  been  misconceived, 
and  I  shall  be  very  unhappy  if  they  receive  an  interpretation 
different  from  the  true  intent  and  meaning  of  them.  If  this  is 
the  case,  it  can  only  be  attributed  to  my  not  understanding  the 
business  of  the  Duke  de  Lauzun  perfectly.  I  will  rely,  there 
fore,  on  your  goodness  and  candour  to  explain  and  rectify  the 
mistake,  if  any  has  happened. 

My  wishes  perfectly  coincided  with  the  determination  of  the 
board  of  war,  to  continue  the  fleet  at  Rhode-Island,  provided 
it  could  remain  there  in  safety  with  the  force  required,  and  did 
not  impede  the  march  of  the  army  toward  the  North  river ;  but 
when  the  Duke  de  Lauzun  informed  me  that  my  opinion  of 
the  propriety  and  safety  of  this  measure  was  required  by  the 
board,  and  that  he  came  hither  at  the  particular  request  of  the 

Counts  Rochambeau  and  de  B to  obtain  it,  I  was  reduced 

to  the  painful  necessity  of  delivering  a  sentiment  different  from 
that  of  a  most  respectable  board,  or  of  forfeiting  all  preten 
sions  to  candour,  by  the  concealment  of  it.  Upon  this  ground 
it  was,  I  wrote  to  the  generals  to  the  effect  I  did,  and  not  be 
cause  I  was  dissatisfied  at  the  alteration  of  the  plan  agreed  to 
at  Weathersfield.  My  fears  for  the  safety  of  the  fleet,  which 
I  am  now  persuaded  were  carried  too  far,  were  productive  of  a 
belief,  that  the  generals,  when  separated,  might  feel  uneasy  at 
every  mysterious  preparation  of  the  enemy,  and  occasion  a 
fresh  call  for  militia.  This  had  some  weight  in  my  determina 
tion  to  give  Boston  (where  I  was  sure  no  danger  could  be  en 
countered  but  that  of  a  blockade,)  a  preference  to  Newport, 
where,  under  some  circumstances,  though  not  such  as  were 
likely  to  happen,  something  might  be  enterprised. 

The  fleet  being  at  Rhode-Island,  is  attended  certainly  with 
many  advantages  in  the  operation  proposed,  and  I  entreat  that 
you  and  the  gentlemen  who  were  of  opinion  that  it  ought  to  be 
risked  there  for  these  purposes,  will  be  assured,  that  I  have  a 
high  sense  of  the  obligations  you  meant  to  confer  on  America 
by  that  resolve,  and  that  your  zeal  to  promote  the  common 
cause,  and  my  anxiety  for  the  safety  of  so  valuable  a  fleet,  were 
the  only  motives  that  gave  birth  to  the  apparent  difference  in 
our  opinion. 

T  set  that  value  upon  your  friendship  and  candour,  and  that 


CORRESPONDENCE. 


implicit  belief  in  your  attachment  to  America,  that  they  are 
only  to  be  equalled  by  the  sincerity  with  which,  I  have  the  ho 
nour  to  be,  my  dear  sir, 

Your  most  obedient  and  obliged  servant, 
The  Marquis  de  Chastdlux.  GEORGE  WASHINGTON. 


LETTER  IV. 

Philadelphia,  January  4,  1782. 

MY  DEAR  CHEVALIER — I  cannot  suffer  your  old  acquaintance, 
Mrs.  Curtis,  to  proceed  to  Williamsburgh,  without  taking  with 
her  a  remembrancer  of  my  friendship  for  you. 

I  have  been  detained  here  by  Congress,  to  assist  in  making 
the  necessary  arrangements  for  next  campaign,  and  am  happy 
to  find  so  favourable  a  disposition  in  that  body,  to  prepare  vi 
gorously  for  it.  They  have  resolved  to  keep  up  the  same  num 
ber  of  corps  as  constituted  the  army  of  last  year,  and  have 
called  upon  the  states  in  a  pressing  manner,  to  complete  them. 

Requisitions  of  money  are  also  made,  but  how  far  the  abili 
ties  and  inclinations  of  the  states,  individually,  will  coincide 
with  the  demands,  is  more  than  I  am  able,  at  this  early  period, 
to  inform  you.  A  farther  pecuniary  aid  from  your  generous  na 
tion,  and  a  decisive  naval  force  upon  this  coast,  in  the  latter 
end  of  May,  or  beginning  of  June,  unlimited  in  its  stay  and 
operations,  would  (unless  the  resources  of  Great  Britain  are 
inexhaustible,  or  she  can  form  powerful  alliances)  bid  fair  to 
finish  the  war,  in  the  course  of  next  campaign,  (if  she  means 
to  prosecute  it,)  with  the  ruin  of  that  people. 

The  first,  that  is,  an  aid  of  money,  would  enable  our  finan 
ciers  to  support  the  expenses  of  the  war  with  ease  and  credit, 
without  anticipating  or  deranging  those  funds  which  Congress 
are  endeavouring  to  establish,  and  which  will  be  productive, 
though  they  are  slow  in  the  operation.  The  second,  a  naval 
superiority,  would  compel  the  enemy  to  draw  their  whole  force 
to  a  point,  which  would  not  only  be  a  disgrace  to  their  arms, 
by  the  relinquishment  of  posts  and  states  which  they  affect  to 
have  conquered,  but  might,  eventually,  be  fatal  to  their  army. 
Or,  by  attempting  to  hold  these,  to  be  cut  off  in  detail.  So 
that,  in  either  case,  the  most  important  good  consequences 
would  result  from  the  measure. 

As  you  will  have  received,  in  a  more  direct  channel  than 
from  me,  the  news  of  the  surprise  and  recapture  of  St.  Eustatia, 
by  the  arms  of  France.  I  shall  only  congratulate  you  on  the 


CORRESPONDENCE.  391 

event,  and  add,  that  it  marks,  in  a  striking  point  of  view,  the 
genius  of  the  Marquis  de  Boulli,  for  enterprise,  and  for  intre 
pidity  in  resources  in  difficult  circumstances.  His  conduct, 
upon  this  occasion,  does  him  infinite  honour. 

Amid  the  numerous  friends  who  would  rejoice  to  see  you  at 
this  place,  none  (while  I  stay  here)  could  give  you  a  more  sin 
cere  and  cordial  welcome  than  I  should. 

Shall  I  entreat  you  to  present  me  to  the  circle  of  your  friends 
in  the  army  around  you.  With  all  that  warmth  and  attachment 
of  the  purest  friendship  and  regard,  I  have  the  honour  to  be, 
dear  sir, 

Your  affectionate  humble  servant, 

The  Marquis  de  Chastellux.  GEORGE  WASHINGTON. 


LETTER  V. 

Princeton,  October  12,  1783. 

MY  BEAR  CHEVALIER — I  have  not  had  the  honour  of  a  letter 
from  you  since  the  4th  of  March  last ;  but  I  will  ascribe  my 
disappointment  to  any  cause  sooner  than  to  a  decay  of  your 
friendship. 

Having  the  appearances,  and,  indeed  the  enjoyment  of 
peace,  without  the  final  declaration  of  it,  I,  who  am  only  wait 
ing  for  the  ceremonials,  or  till  the  British  forces  shall  have  taken 
their  leave  of  New-York,  am  held  in  an  awkward  and  disagree 
able  situation,  being  anxiously  desirous  to  quit  the  walks  of 
public  life,  and  under  my  own  vine  and  my  own  fig-tree,  to 
seek  those  enjoyments,  and  that  relaxation,  which  a  mind  that 
has  been  constantly  upon  the  stretch  for  more  than  eight  years, 
stands  so  much  in  want  of. 

I  have  fixed  this  epoch  to  the  arrival  of  the  definitive  treaty, 
or  to  the  evacuation  of  my  country,  by  our  newly-acquired 
friends  ;  in  the  meanwhile,  at  the  request  of  Congress,  I  spend 
my  time  with  them  at  this  place,  where  they  came  in  conse 
quence  of  the  riots  at  Philadelphia,  of  which,  doubtless  you 
have  been  informed,  for  it  is  not  a  very  recent  transaction. 

They  have  lately  determined  to  fix  the  permanent  residence 
of  Congress,  near  the  falls  of  Delaware  ;  but  where  they  will 
hold  their  sessions,  till  they  can  be  properly  established  at  that 
place,  is  yet  undecided. 

I  have  lately  made  a  tour  through  the  Lakes  George  and 
Champlain  as  far  as  Crown  Point — then  returning  to  Schenecta- 
dy,  I  proceeded  up  the  Mohawk  river  to  Fort  Schuyler,  (for 
merly  Fort  Stanwix,)  crossed  over  Wood  creek,  which  empties 
into  the  Oneida  Lake,  and  affords  the  water  communication 


31)2  CORRESPONDENCE. 

with  Lake  Ontario  ;  I  then  traversed  the  country  to  the  head 
of  the  eastern  branch  of  the  Susquehannah,  and  viewed  the 
Lake  Otsego,  and  the  portage  between  that  lake,  and  the  Mo 
hawk  river  at  Canajoharie. 

Prompted  by  these  actual  observations,  I  could  not  help  ta 
king  a  more  contemplative  and  extensive  view  of  the  vast  in 
land  navigation  of  these  United  States,  from  maps,  and  the 
information  of  others,  and  could  not  but  be  struck  with  the  im 
mense  diffusion  and  importance  of  it,  and  with  the  goodness  of 
that  Providence  which  has  dealt  her  favours  to  us  with  so  pro 
fuse  a  hand.  Would  to  God  we  may  have  wisdom  enough  to 
make  a  good  use  of  them.  I  shall  not  rest  contented  till  I 
have  explored  the  western  part  of  this  country,  and  traversed 
those  lines  (or  a  great  part  of  them,)  which  have  given  bounds 
to  a  new  empire  ;  but  when  it  may,  if  it  ever  should  happen,  I 
dare  not  say,  as  my  first  attention  must  be  given  to  the  deran 
ged  situation  of  my  private  concerns,  which  are  not  a  little 
injured  by  almost  nine  years  absence,  and  total  disregard  of 
them. 

With  every  wish  for  your  health  and  happiness,  and  with 
the  most  sincere  and  affectionate  regard, 

•I  am,  my  dear  Chevalier,  your  most  obedient  servant, 

The  Marquis  de  Chastellux.  GEORGE  WASHINGTON. 


LETTER  VI. 

Jllount  Vzrnon,  February  1,  1784. 

MY  DEAR  CHEVALIER — I  have  had  the  honour  to  receive  your 
favour  of  the  23d  of  August  from  L'Orient,  and  hope  this  let 
ter  will  find  you  in  the  circle  of  your  friends  at  Paris,  well  re 
covered  from  the  fatigues  of  your  long  inspection  of  the  fron 
tiers  of  the  kingdom.  I  am  at  length  become  a  private  citizen, 
on  the  banks  of  the  Potomac,  where,  under  my  own  vine  and 
my  own  fig-tree,  free  from  the  bustle  of  a  camp  and  the  in 
trigues  of  a  court,  I  shall  view  the  busy  world  with  calm  indif 
ference,  and  with  serenity  of  mind,  which  the  soldier  in  pursuit 
of  glory,  and  the  statesman  of  a  name,  have  not  leisure  to  enjoy. 
I  am  not  only  retired  from  all  public  employments,  but  am  re 
tiring  within  myself,  and  shall  tread  the  private  walks  of  life 
with  heartfelt  satisfaction. 

After  seeing  New- York  evacuated  by  the  British  forces  on 
the  25th  of  November,  and  civil  government  established  in  the 
city,  I  repaired  to  Congress,  and  surrendered  all  my  powers, 
with  my  commission,  into  their  hands  on  the  23d  of  December. 


CORRESPONDENCE.  393 

und  arrived  at  this  cottage  the  day  before  Christmas,  where  I 
have  been  close  locked  in  frost  and  snow  ever  since.  Mrs. 
Washington  thanks  you  for  your  kind  remembrance  of  her, 
and  prays  you  to  accept  her  best  wishes  in  return. 

With  sentiments  of  pure  and  unabated  friendship,  I  am,  my 
clear  Chevalier, 

Your  most  affectionate  and  obedient  servant, 

The  Marquis  de  Chastellux.  GEORGE  WASHINGTON. 


LETTER  VII. 

Mount  Vernon,  June  2,  1764. 

DEAR  SIR — I  had  the  honour  to  receive  a  letter  from  you  by 
Major  L'Enfort.  My  official  letters  to  the  Counts  de  Estaing 
and  Rochambeau  (which  I  expect  will  be  submitted  to  the 
members  of  the  society  of  the  Cincinnati  in  France)  will  inform 
you  of  the  proceedings  of  the  general  meeting,  held  at  Phila 
delphia  on  the  3d  ult.,  and  the  reasons  which  induced  a  de 
parture  from  some  of  the  original  principles  and  rules  of  the 
society.  As  these  have  been  detailed,  I  will  not  repeat  them, 
and  as  we  have  had  no  occurrences  out  of  the  common  course, 
except  the  establishment  often  new  states  in  the  Western  Ter 
ritory,  and  the  appointment  of  Mr.  Jefferson  (whose  talents  and 
worth  are  well  known  to  you)  as  one  of  the  commissioners  for 
forming  commercial  treaties  in  Europe,  I  only  repeat  to  you 
the  assurances  of  my  friendship,  and  express  to  you  a  wish  that 
I  might  see  you  in  the  shade  of  those  trees  which  my  hands 
have  planted,  and  which  by  their  rapid  growth  at  once  indicate 
a  knowledge  of  my  declination,  and  their  willingness  to  spread 
their  mantles  over  me  before  I  go  hence  to  return  no  more. 
For  this,  their  gratitude,  I  will  nurture  them  while  I  stay. 

Before  I  conclude,  permit  me  to  recommend  Colonel  Hum 
phreys  (who  is  appointed  secretary  to  the  commission)  to  your 
countenance  and  civilities  whilst  he  remains  in  France.  He 
possesses  an  excellent  heart  and  a  good  understanding. 

With  every  sentiment  of  esteem  and  regard,  I  am,  my  dear 
Chevalier, 

Your  most  affectionate  servant, 

The  Marquis  de  ChasteUux.  GEORGE  WASHINGTON. 


394  CORRESPONDENCE. 

LETTER  VIII. 

Mount  Vcrnon,  September  5,  1785. 

DEAR  SIR — I  am  your  debtor  for  two  letters  :  one  of  the  12th 
of  December,  the  other  of  the  8th  of  April.  Since  the  receipt 
of  the  first,  I  have  paid  my  respects  to  you,  in  a  line  or  two  by 
Major  Swan,  but  as  it  was  introductory  only  of  him,  it  requires 
apology,  rather  than  entitles  me  to  credit,  in  our  epistolary  cor 
respondence. 

If  I  had  as  good  a  nack,  my  dear  Marquis,  as  you  have,  at 
saying  handsome  things,  I  would  endeavour  to  pay  you  in  kind 
for  the  many  flattering  expressions  of  your  letters.  I  have  an 
ample  field  to  work  in  ;  but  as  I  am  a  clumsy  labourer  in  the 
manufactory  of  compliments,  I  must  first  profess  my  unworthi- 
ness  of  those  which  you  have  bestowed  on  me,  and  then,  con 
scious  of  my  inability  of  meeting  you  upon  that  ground, 
confess  that  it  is  better  not  to  enter  the  list,  than  to  retreat  from 
it  in  disgrace. 

It  gives  me  great  pleasure  to  find,  by  my  last  letters  from 
France,  that  the  dark  clouds  which  overspread  your  hemisphere, 
are  yielding  to  the  sunshine  of  peace.  My  first  wish  is  to  see 
the  blessings  of  it  diffused  through  all  countries,  and  among  all 
ranks  in  every  country,  and  that  we  should  consider  ourselves 
as  the  children  of  a  common  parent,  and  be  disposed  to  acts  of 
brotherly  kindness  toward  one  another ;  in  that  case,  restric 
tion  of  trade  would  vanish.  We  should  take  your  wines,  your 
fruit,  and  surplusage  of  such  articles  as  our  necessities  or  con 
venience  might  require,  and  in  return  give  you  our  fish,  our 
oil,  our  tobacco,  our  naval  stores,  &c. ;  and  in  like  manner 
should  exchange  produce  with  other  countries,  to  the  recipro 
cal  advantage  of  each :  and  as  the  globe  is  large,  why  need  we 
wrangle  for  a  small  spot  of  it  ?  If  one  country  cannot  con 
tain  us,  another  should  open  its  arms  to  us.  But  these  halcyon 
days  (if  they  ever  did  exist)  are  now  no  more.  A  wise  Provi 
dence,  I  presume,  has  decreed  it  otherwise  ;  and  we  shall  be 
obliged  to  go  on  in  the  old  way,  disputing,  and  now  and  then 
fighting,  until  the  great  globe  itself  dissolves. 

I  rarely  go  from  home,  but  my  friends  in  and  out  of  Congress 
inform  me  of  what  is  on  the  carpet.  To  hand  it  to  you  after 
wards  would  be  circuitous  and  idle ;  as  I  am  persuaded,  that 
you  have  correspondents  at  New- York,  who  give  them  to  you 
at  first  hand,  and  can  relate  them  with  more  clearness  and  pre 
cision.  I  give  the  chief  of  my  time  to  rural  amusements;  but 
[  have  lately  been  active  in  instituting  a  plan,  which,  if  success 
attend  it,  (and  of  which  I  have  no  doubt,)  may  be  productive 


CORRESPONDENCE.  395 

of  great  political,  as  well  as  commercial  advantages,  to  the 
states  on  the  Atlantic,  especially  the  middle  ones.  It  is  the 
improving  and  extending  the  inland  navigations  of  the  rivers 
Potomac  and  James,  and  communicating  them  with  the  west 
ern  waters,  by  the  shortest  and  easiest  portages,  and  good  roads. 
Acts  have  passed  the  assemblies  of  Virginia  and  Maryland,  au 
thorising  private  adventurers  to  undertake  the  work.  Compa 
nies  in  consequence  are  incorporated,  and  that  on  this  river  is 
begun  ;  but  when  we  come  to  the  difficult  parts  of  it,  we  shall 
require  an  engineer  of  skill  and  practical  knowledge  in  this 
branch  of  business,  and  from  that  country  where  those  kind  of 
improvements  have  been  conducted  with  the  greatest  success. 

With  very  great  esteem  and  regard,  I  am,  my  dear  sir, 
Your  most  obedient  servant, 

The  Marquis  de  Chastellux.  GEORGE  WASHINGTON 


LETTER  IX. 

Mount  Vernon,  August  8,  1786. 

MY  DEAR  MARQUIS, — I  cannot  omit  to  seize  the  earliest  occa 
sion  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  the  very  affectionate  letter 
you  did  me  the  honour  to  write  me  on  the  22d  May,  as  well  as 
to  thank  you  for  the  present  of  your  travels  in  America,  and  the 
translation  of  Colonel  Humphrey's  poem;  all  of  which  came 
safe  to  hand,  by  the  same  conveyance. 

Knowing,  as  I  did,  the  candour,  liberality,  and  philanthropy 
of  the  Marquis  de  Chastellux,  I  was  prepared  to  disbelieve  any 
imputations  that  might  militate  against  those  amiable  qualities  ;; 
for  character  and  habits  are  not  easily  taken  up,  or  suddenly 
laid  aside.  Nor  does  that  mild  species  of  philosophy,  which 
aims  at  promoting  human  happiness,  ever  belie  itself,  by  devi 
ating  from  the  generous  and  God-like  pursuit.  Having  riot- 
withstanding,  understood,  that  some  misrepresentation  of  the 
work  in  question  had  been  circulated,  I  was  happy  to  learn 
that  you  had  taken  the  most  effectual  method  to  put  a  stop  to 
their  circulation,  by  publishing  a  more  ample  and  correct  edi 
tion.  Colonel  Humphreys  (who  spent  some  weeks  at  Mount 
Vernon)  confirmed  me  in  the  sentiment,  by  giving  me  a  most 
flattering  account  of  the  whole  performance.  He  has  also  put 
into  my  hands  the  translation  of  that  part  in  which  you  say 
such,  and  so  many  handsome  things  of  me,  that  (although  no 
skeptic  on  ordinary  occasions)  I  may  perhaps  be  allowed  to 
doubt  whether  your  friendship  and  partially  have  not,  in  this 


39B  CORRESPONDENCE. 

one  instance,  acquired  an  ascendancy  over  your  cooler  judg 
ment. 

Having  been  thus  unwarily,  and  I  may  be  permitted  to  add, 
almost  unavoidably  betrayed  into  a  kind  of  necessity  to  speak 
of  myself,  and  not  wishing  to  resume  that  subject,  I  choose  to 
close  it  forever,  by  observing,  that,  as  on  the  one  hand,  I  con 
sider  it  as  an  indubitable  mark  of  mean  spiritedness  and  pitiful 
vanity  to  court  applause  from  the  pen  or  tongue  of  man  ;  so* 
on  the  other,  I  believe  it  to  be  a  proof  of  false  modesty,  or  an 
unworthy  affectation  of  humility,  to  appear  altogether  insensi 
ble  to  the  commendations  of  the  virtuous  and  enlightened  part 
of  our  species.* 

Perhaps  nothing  can  excite  more  perfect  harmony  in  the 
soul,  than  to  have  this  spring  vibrate  in  unison  with  the  inter 
nal  consciousness  of  rectitude  in  our  intentions,  and  an  humble 
hope  of  approbation  from  the  supreme  disposer  of  all  things. 

I  have  communicated  toColonel  Humphreys,  that  paragraph 
in  your  letter  which  announces  the  favourable  reception  his 
poem  has  met  with  in  France.  Upon  the  principles  I  have  just 
laid  down,  he  cannot  be  indifferent  to  the  applauses  of  so  en 
lightened  a  nation,  nor  to  the  suffrages  of  the  King  and  Queen, 
who  have  been  pleased  to  honour  it  with  their  royal  approba 
tion. 

We  have  no  news  on  this  side  the  Atlantic  worth  the  pains 
of  sending  across  it.  The  country  is  recovering  rapidly  from 
the  ravages  of  war.  The  seeds  of  population  are  scattered  far 
in  the  wilderness  ;  agriculture  is  prosecuted  with  industry  ; 
the  works  of  peace,  such  as  opening  rivers,  building  bridges, 
&c.,  are  carried  on  with  spirit.  Trade  is  not  so  successful  as 


*  In  a  letter  from  General  Washington  to  Mr.  Arthur  Young,  dated 
Mount  Vernon,  Dec.  4th,  1788,  the  General,  after  replying  to  a  request 
to  obtain  his  permission  to  publish  his  letters  on  agricultural  subjects, 
concludes  with  the  following  remarks  : 

"  I  can  only  say  for  myself,  that  I  have  endeavoured,  in  a  state  of 
tranquil  retirement,  to  keep  myself  as  much  from  the  eye  of  the  world 
as  I  possibly  could.  T  have  studiously  avoided,  as  much  as  was  in  my 
power,  to  give  any  cause  tor  ill-natured,  or  impertinent  comments  on  my 
conduct ;  and  I  should  be  very  unhappy  to  have  any  thing  done  on  my 
behalf  (however  distant  in  itself  from  impropriety)  which  should  give 
occasion  for  one  officious  tongue  to  use  rny  name  with  indelicacy. 
For  I  wish,  most  devoutly,  to  glide  silently  and  unnoticed  through  the 
remainder  of  life.  This  is  my  heart-felt  wish,  and  these  are  my  undis 
guised  feelings.  After  having  submitted  them  confidentially  to  you,  I 
have  such  a  reliance  upon  your  prudence,  as  to  leave  it  with  you  to  do 
what  you  think,  upon  a  full  consideration  of  the  matter,  shall  be  wises* 
and  best." 


CORRESPONDENCE.  897 

we  could  wish.  Our  state  governments  are  well  administered. 
Some  objections  in  our  Federal  government  might  perhaps  be 
altered  for  the  better.  I  rely  much  on  the  goodness  of  my 
countrymen  ;  and  trust  that  a  superintending  Providence  will 
disappoint  the  hopes  of  our  enemies. 

With  sentiments  of  the  sincerest  friendship,  I  am,  my  dear 
Marquis, 

Your  obedient  and  affectionate  servant, 

The  Marquis  de  Chastdlux.  GEORGE  WASHINGTON. 


LETTER  X. 


Mount  Ternon,  April  25,  1788. 

MY  DEAR  MARQUIS — In  reading  your  very  friendly  and  accept 
able  letter,  of  the  21st  of  December,  1787,  which  came  to  hand 
by  the  last  mail,  I  was,  as  you  may  well  suppose,  not  less  delight 
ed  than  surprised  to  come  across  that  plain  American  word, 
"  My  wife." — A  Wife  ! — well  my  dear  Marquis,  I  can  hardly 
refrain  from  smiling  to  find  that  you  are  caught  at  last.  I  saw, 
by  the  eulogium  you  often  made  on  the  happiness  of  domestic 
life  in  America,  that  you  had  swallowed  the  bait,  and  that  you 
would,  as  surely  as  you  are  a  philosopher  and  a  soldier,  be  taken 
one  day  or  other.  So,  your  day  has  at  length  come. — I  am 
glad  of  it,  with  all  my  heart  and  soul.  It  is  quite  good  enough 
for  you  : — Now,  you  are  well  served  for  coming  to  fight  in  fa 
vour  of  the  American  rebels,  all  the  way  across  the  Atlantic 
Ocean,  by  catching  that  terrible  contagion,  which,  like  the 
small  pox,  or  the  plague,  a  man  can  have  only  once  in  his 
life,  because  it  commonly  lasts  him  (at  least  with  us  in  Ameri 
ca — I  dont  know  how  you  manage  these  matters  in  France)  for 
his  life  time. — And  yet,  after  all  the  maledictions  you  so  richly 
merit  on  the  subject,  the  worst  wish  I  can  find  it  in  my  heart 
to  make  against  Madame  de  Chastellux,  and  yourself,  is, 
that  you  may  neither  of  you  get  the  better  of  this  domes 
tic  felicity  during  the  course  of  your  mortal  existence. 

If  so  wonderful  an  event  should  have  occasioned  me,  my 
dear  Marquis,  to  have  written  in  a  strange  style,  you  will  un 
derstand  me  as  clearly  as  if  I  had  said,  (what  in  plain  English  is 
the  simple  truth,)  do  me  the  justice  to  believe  that  I  take  aheart 
ftlt  interest  in  whatever  concerns  your  happiness  ;  and  in  this 
view,  I  sincerely  congratulate  you  on  your  auspicious  matrimo 
nial  connection. 

I  am  happy  to  find  that  Madame  de  Chastellux  is  so  intimate 
ly  connected  with  the  Dutchess  of  Orleans,  as  I  have  always 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

understood  that  this  noble  lady  wasan  illustrious  pattern  of  con 
nubial  love,  as  well  as  an  excellent  model  of  virtue  in  general. 
While  you  have  been  making  love  under  the  banner  of  Hy 
men,  the  great  personages  of  the  north  have  been  making  war 
under  the  inspiration,  or,  rather  the  infatuation  of  Mars.  Now, 
for  my  part,  I  humbly  conceive  you  had  much  the  best  and 
wisest  of  the  bargain  ;  for  certainly,  it  is  more  consonant  to  all 
the  principles  of  reason  and  religion,  (natural  and  revealed,) 
to  replenish  the  earth  with  inhabitants,  rather  than  depopulate 
it  by  killing  those  already  in  existence  ;  besides,  it  is  time  for 
the  age  of  knight-errantry  and  mad  heroism  to  be  at  an  end. 

Your  young  military  men-,  who  want  to  reap  the  harvest  of 
laurels,  don't  care,  I  suppose,  how  many  seeds  of  war  are  sown ; 
but,  for  the  sake  of  humanity,  it  is  devoutly  to  be  wished,  that 
the  manly  employment  of  agriculture,  and  the  humanizing  bene 
fits  of  commerce,  should  supersede  the  waste  of  war,  and  the 
rage  of  conquest ;  that  the  swords  might  be  turned  into  plough 
shares — the  spears  into  pruning  hooks — and,  as  the  Scripture 
expresses  it,  "  the  nations  learn  war  no  more." 

I  will  now  give  you  a  little  news  from  this  side  the  Atlantic, 
and  then  finish.  As  for  us,  we  are  plodding  on  in  the  dark  road 
of  peace  and  politics.  We,  who  live  in  these  ends  of  the  earth 
only  hear  of  the  rumours  of  war,  like  the  roar  of  distant  thun 
der.  It  is  to  be  hoped  our  remote  local  situation  will  prevent 
us  from  being  swept  into  its  vortex. 

The  constitution  which  was  proposed  by  the  Federal  Con 
vention,  has  been  adopted  by  the  states  of  Massachusetts,  Con 
necticut,  Jersey,  Pennsylvania,  Delaware,  and  Georgia.  No 
state  has  rejected  it.  The  Convention  of  Maryland  is  now  sit 
ting,  and  will  probably  adopt  it,  as  that  of  South-Carolina  will 
do  in  May.  The  other  Conventions  will  assemble  early  in  the 
summer.  Hitherto  there  has  been  much  greater  unanimity  in 
favour  of  the  proposed  government  than  could  have  reasonably 
been  expected.  Should  it  be  adopted,  (and  I  think  it  will  be,) 
America  will  lift  up  her  head  again,  and,  in  a  few  years,  be 
come  respectable  among  the  nations.  It  is  a  flattering  and 
consolatory  reflection,  that  our  rising  republic  has  the  good 
wishes  of  all  philosophers,  patriots  and  virtuous  men,  in  all  na 
tions  and  that  they  look  upon  it  as  a  kind  of  asylum  for  man 
kind.  God  grant  that  we  may  not  be  disappointed  in  our  ho 
nest  expectations  by  our  folly  or  perverseness  ! 

With  sentiments  of  the  purest  attachment  and  esteem,!  have 
the  honour  to  be,  my  dear  Marquis, 

Your  most  obedient  and  humble  servant, 
The  Marquis  de  Chastettur.  GEORGE  WASHINGTON-. 


CORRESPONDENCE.  399 

P.  S.  If  the  Duke  de  Lauzun  is  still  with  you,  I  beg  you  will 
thank  him,  in  my  name,  for  his  kind  remembrance  of  me,  and 
make  my  compliments  to  him. 

May  1st. — Since  writing  the  above,  I  have  been  favoured 
with  a  duplicate  of  your  letter,  in  the  hand  writing  of  a  lady, 
and  cannot  close  this,  without  acknowledging  my  obligations 
to  the  flattering  postscript  of  the  fair  transcriber.  In  effect, 
my  dear  Marquis,  the  characters  of  this  interpreter  of  your 
sentiments,  are  so  much  fairer  than  those  through  which  I  have 
been  accustomed  to  decipher  them,  that  I  already  consider  my 
self  as  no  small  gainer  by  your  matrimonial  connection  ;  espe 
cially,  as  I  hope  that  your  amiable  amanuensis  will  not  forget, 
at  sometimes,  to  add  a  few  annotations  of  her  own  to  your  ori 
ginal  text. 

I  have  just  received  information  that  the  Convention  of  Ma 
ryland  has  ratified  the  proposed  constitution,  by  a  majority  of 
<33to  11.  G.  W. 


* 


ADDITIONAL 


NOTES  AND  CORRECTIONS, 


BY  THE 


AMERICAN  EDITOR. 


51 


* 


ADDITIONAL 
XOTES  AND  CORRECTIONS, 


BY  THE 


VMERICAN  EDITOR 


PAGE  18. — For  Massachusetts,  read  Rhode-Island,  the  state  in 
which  Warren  is  situate. 

PAGE  19. — For  Connecticut,  read  Conanicut,  an  island  opposite 
Newport,  at  the  mouth  of  Providence  river,  30  miles  below  Provi 
dence. 

Idem. — Providence  has  greatly  changed  and  doubled  itself  twice  since 
the  author  saw  it.  The  "  Guinea  trade"  is  no  longer  carried  on  from 
thence,  the  importation  of  slaves  into  the  country  having  been  pro 
hibited  by  Congress  in  1808,  pursuant  to  the  federal  constitution,  bv 
which  (in  favour  to  the  southern  states)  they  were  restricted  from 
abolishing  the  trade  before  ;  and  traffic  in  human  flesh  in  any  part  of 
the  world  is  forbidden  by  the  laws  of  England  as  well  as  the  United 
States,  and  the  practice  declared  piratical  and  treated  as  such  by  the 
two  governments.  France  has  also  prohibited  the  slave  trade.  No 
lonsrer  dependant  on  this  commerce  for  any  portion  of  its  prosperity, 
the  citizens  of  Providence  and  its  neighbourhood  have  turned  their 
attention  to  domestic  manufactures,  in  addition  to  their  East  and  West 
India  and  other  foreign  trade  and  fisheries,  and  now  present  an  exam 
ple  of  growth  and  prosperity  seldom  equalled  in  this  or  any  other 
country.  From  the  number  of  2,500  inhabitants,  the  large  estimate 
of  the  Marquis,  in  40  years  the  town  has  increased  its  population,  in 
1820,  to  11,757  ;  and  4  miles  from  Providence,  on  the  Boston  road, 
on  each  side  of  the  boundary  river  between  Rhode-Island  and  Massa 
chusetts,  is  situate  Pawtucket,  a  flourishing  village,  containing,  in 
1810,  no  less  than  24  manufactories  of  different  kinds,  principally 
'cotton,  which  furnish  materials  for  the  export  trade  of  Providence, 


404  ADDITIONAL  MOTES 

Besides  the  university,  the  town  contains  9  banks,  with  insurance 
offices,  and  other  public  buildings  and  institutions.  There  are  4  banks 
also  in  Pawtucket.  The  banks  in  Rhode-Island  have  small  capitals, 
with  the  directors  personally  responsible  for  their  paper. — When 
Chastellux  speaks  of  the  commerce  of  Rhode-Island  and  Boston,  he 
means  the  towns  of  Newport  and  Boston. 

PAGE  23,  note. — The  translator  would  have  found,  in  1827,  wine  of 
all  kinds,  less  than  30  days  from  France,  Madeira,  or  Oporto,  with 
which  to  fill  his  cantines  [canteens.] 

PAGE  24. — The  author  is  not  sufficiently  accurate  in  his  description 
of  a  "  town  or  township,"  in  this  and  other  places.  It  is  always  a 
tract  or  territory  of  land,  from  4  or  5  to  10  miles  square,  or  other  con 
venient  dimensions,  bounded  and  described  by  law,  within  the  limits 
of  which  may  be  an  incorporated  borough,  a  village,  or  two  or  three 
parishes,  and  several  school  districts,  each  subject  to  its  own  local 
regulations,  although  under  the  common  government  of  the  town  for 
general  purposes — the  "  space"  is  more  properly  the  town,  and  not 
any  "  certain  number  of  houses."  All  the  northern  and  middle,  and 
most  of  the  other  states,  are  surveyed  and  laid  out  in  townships,  with 
out  regard  to  the  number  of  houses  now  or  hereafter  to  be  erected  on 
them. 

PAGES  25,  26. — Quenebaugh  for  Quinnebaug,  and  Seunganick  for 
SJietucket  rivers,  are  awkwardly  spelt,  neither  the  author  nor  translator 
being  conversant  with  Indian  names. 

PAGE  28. — Vermont  was  admitted  as  a  state  into  the  federal  Union, 
about  the  year  1793,  and  in  1820  contained  235,764  inhabitants. 

Idem. — Ferries  : — If  the  author  or  translator  had  witnessed  the 
modern  improvements  in  our  ferry-boats,  whether  moved  by  horse 
power  or  steam,  and  in  one  of  which  we  have  seen  a  body  of  848 
men,  besides  other  passengers,  transported  safely  across  a  river  at  a 
single  draught,  the  remarks  on  our  ferries  would  have  been  omitted. 

Idem. — The  facts  of  Colonel  Wads  worth's  residence  and  employ 
ment  on  Long-Island  before  the  revolution,  and  "  the  American  ex 
pression  of  contestation"  given  to  the  struggle,  will  be  quite  new  to 
the  reader. 

PAGE  30. — Line  2,  for  two  years,  read  one  year,  the  elections  in 
Connecticut  having  always  been  annual,  with  two  sessions  a  year  for 
their  legislature. 

PAGE  31. — Hartford  is  mentioned,  and  townships  again,  and  both 
in  exceptionable  terms.  Hartford  is  now  a  city,  containing  a  state- 
house,  college,  deaf  and  dumb  institution,  churches,  banks,  &c.  with 
a  population,  in  1820,  of  4,726  within  the  city,  and  2,175  in  the  town 


AND  CORRECTIONS.  405 

without,  or  6,901  in  the  whole ;  and  is  situate  on  the  Connecticut, 
which  was  never  called  the  Hartford  river. 

PAGE  33. — The  Americans  have  a  bird  they  call  the  blue-jay,  fami 
liar  to  the  youth  of  New-England,  very  different  from  the  common 
blue-bird.  The  whimsical  blunder  of  the  wall-nut  tree  is  corrected 
by  the  translator — the  walnut,  or  hickory,  is  so  valuable  for  other 
purposes,  that  it  is  used  less  than  any  other  kind  of  wood  in  construct 
ing  the  walls  of  houses. 

PAGE  35. — For  Harrington,  read  Harwinton. 

PAGE  36. — Every  state  in  the  Union,  excepting  South-Carolina,  is 
organized  and  divided  into  counties,  each  of  which  has  a  court,  em 
bracing  common  pleas  and  criminal  jurisprudence. 

PAGE  37. — Washington  county  : — There  is  none  thus  designated 
in  Connecticut,  although  one  may  be  found  in  almost  every  other  state 
of  the  twenty-four.  The  town  or  township  of  Washington  is  here 
meant.  "  The  woods  of  Connecticut,"  to  any  considerable  extent, 
at  the  present  time,  would  be  very  difficult  to  discover.  The  state  is 
more  populous,  in  proportion  to  its  size,  than  any  other  in  the  Union. 

PAGE  39. — Kent  is  a  town,  not  a  county.  Both  this  and  Washing 
ton  are  in  Litchfield  county.  Milford  is  also  a  town,  not  a  county. 

PAGE  42. — "Hopel  township"  is  not  yet  "built,"  and  may  be 
searched  for  in  vain  among  our  records,  as  well  as  the  account  that 
"  the  greatest  part  of  the  state  of  New-York  was  exchanged  for  Suri 
nam,  instead  of  being  surrendered  to  the  English  by  Gov.  Stuyvesant, 
.in  1664."  In  the  last  paragraph  for  next,  read  kept,  and  recollect  that 
half  a  dozen  glass-houses  in  the  country,  with  our  weekly  packets  to 
Europe  and  increased  population,  render  it  less  difficult  now  to  repair 
broken  windows  than  when  the  Marquis  wrote. 

PAGE  42,  note. — Glass  : — In  1810  there  were  ten  manufactories  of 
window-glass,  (six  of  them  in  the  state  of  New-York)  besides  a  num 
ber  for  making  double  flint  glass,  and  black  bottles.  At  present,  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  city  of  New- York,  there  are  three  large  glass-houses, 
in  successful  operation,  where  the  finest  glass  is  blown,  and  in  two  of 
which  the  business  of  cutting  the  glass  is  carried  on  extensively, 
besides  the  numerous  glass-cutting  establishments  in  the  city. 

PAGE  46. — For  Apalachian  Mountains,  read  Atteghany,  their  more 
common  name. 

PAGES  5 1 , 52. — Spell  Bauman  and  Lyman  right.  Col.  Bauman  was 
afterwards  post-master  in  New-York,  and  Maj.  Lyman  naval  officer  at 
Newport.  For  siege  of  New-York,  read  Yorktown  in  Virginia. 

PAGE  57. — Read  Ramapaugh  for  Romopog  ;  and  at  Totohaw  road 
and  Second  river,  read  near  the  Passaic.  At  60.  read  Passaic  falls. 


400  ADDITIONAL  NOTES 

We  should  not  forget  that  the  English  publishers  had  no  Gazetteers  of 
our  country  to  assist  their  translation. 

PAGE  75. — The  name  of  Troy  is  not  to  be  found  in  this  neighbour 
hood,  not  even  the  classical  memento  "  Here  Troy  was."  In  the  state 
of  New- York,  six  miles  above  Albany,  stands  a  flourishing  city  of  that 
name,  containing,  in  1825,  7,859  inhabitants,  and  which  was  not  in 
existence  at  the  period  of  the  Marquis'  travels,  having  sprung  up 
within  the  last  thirty  years. 

PAGE  79. — The  remarks  of  the  author  on  the  u  liberty"  of  conduct 
in  unmarried  people  in  this  country,  is  not  only  singular  in  itself,  but 
more  so  in  coming  from  a  Frenchman,  and  one  whose  liberal  views  of 
our  manners  and  character  are  frequently  so  enthusiastic.  But  the 
confirmation  of  our  loose  customs,  in  the  translator's  note,  especial 
ly  in  quoting  u  a  grave  Quaker"  for  his  example,  is  too  absurd  and 
unfounded  to  be  thought  serious.  The  note  is  as  false  as  it  is  indecent, 
and  worthy  only  of  a  modern  Weld,  Fearon,  or  other  national  libeller. 
Impartiality  requires  a  publisher  to  copy  his  author  faithfully  ;  but 
so  ridiculous  a  slip,  in  a  pen  however  respectable  otherwise,  should 
not  pass  without  a  corrective.  The  translator  either  was  a  man  of 
depraved  taste,  frequenting  low  and  licentious  company,  or  accident 
ally  drew  his  picture  from  the  worst  class  of  American  society.  We 
cannot  but  smile  to  see  customs  and  fashions  imputed  to  Philadelphia, 
that  would  not  be  tolerated  in  London ! 

PAGE  80. — The  author  was  at  Saourland,  a  German  settlement. 
Many  of  the  local  designations  of  our  country  at  that  day,  are  no\v 
lost  and  forgotten  in  our  more  improved  and  regularly  established  dis 
tinctions  of  political  and  natural  geography. 

PAGE  82. — Princeton  college,  though  "  fallen  into  decay  since  the 
war,"  has  revived  again  and  again,  like  the  Phenix,  more  flourishing 
and  brilliant  from  its  ashes.  Besides  this  college,  another,  exclusively 
devoted  to  the  study  of  theology,  is  established  at  Princeton.  The 
name  of  the  town  of  Maidenhead  has  been  changed  to  Lawrence, 
in  honour  of  the  late  Capt.  Lawrence,  of  the  U.  S.  navy,  who  was 
killed  in  the  war  of  1812,  and  was  a  native  of  that  neighbourhood. 

PAGE  87. — Governor  Livingston,  of  New- Jersey,  "passes  for  a 
sensible  man"  to  this  day,  and  will  pass  for  as  much,  and  a  little  more, 
to  posterity.  The  author  did  not  fully  appreciate  his  talents  and 
worth.  His  remarks  on  American  politeness,  it  should  be  recollected, 
are  from  a  French  nobleman,  unaccustomed  to  plain  republican 
manners. 

PAGE  89. — The  company  and  friends  of  the  Marquis  must  have 
been  select  and  special  indeed,  to  have  made  5  or  6  o'clock  a  dining 


AND  CORRECTIONS.  407 

hour  in  Philadelphia.  He  would  have  been  more  correct  to  have  said 
the  general  custom  was  from  12  to  2.  Even  in  New-York  the  most 
fashionable  hour  is  now  3,  or  in  the  extreme,  4  in  the  afternoon  :  and 
fashionable,  in  this  case  does  not  mean  common,  but  uncommon. 
The  Marquis  moved  in  the  highest  rank  of  official  and  diplomatic 
circles. 

PAGE  91. — Mr.  now  Bishop,  White  is  still  living,  one  of  the  last  of 
the  revolutionary  chaplains,  in  Philadelphia. 

PAGE  98. — Robert  Morris,  after  all  his  wealth,  and  the  important 
services  he  rendered  his  country,  suffered  great  pecuniary  hardships, 
lost  all  his  magnificent  possessions,  and  died  a  bankrupt.  His  brother 
Gouverneur,  who  was  afterwards  our  minister  at  Paris  in  the  French 
revolution,  was  more  fortunate,  or  prudent,  in  his  worldly  concerns. 

PAGE  100. — "  Mrs.  Powell  had  read  a  great  deal."  The  Marquis 
having  formed  a  hasty  opinion  that  the  American  women  read  nothing, 
seems  to  think  a  lady  of  extensive  reading  and  literary  taste  quite  a 
phenomenon.  But  as  he  frequently  met  with  very  intelligent  and  ac 
complished  females  in  his  subsequent  travels,  although  there  were  no 
"  blue  stockings'"  in  those  days,  it  is  presumed  he  found  reason  to 
change  his  opinion.  The  learned  ladies  of  America  were  noted  by  an 
English  traveller,  soon  after,  as  quite  remarkable,  on  finding  some  in 
Connecticut  familiar  with  the  sciences  and  languages.  See  pages 
144,  159,  &c. 

PAGE  107. — The  translator's  speculations  on  the  division  of  the 
(Tnion,  so  far  from  being  supported  by  events,  are  contradicted  by  the 
history  of  every  succeeding  year.  In  peace  or  war,  our  confederation 
has  proved  the  most  popular,  and  therefore  the  most  efficient  and  pro 
bably  durable,  of  all  the  known  systems  of  government. 

PAGE  112. — If"  the  Almanac  was  almost  the  only  book  of  astrono 
my  studied  at  Philadelphia"  in  1782,  the  remark  would  not  apply  to 
the  eastern  states.  Indeed,  the  present  state  of  literature  in  Pennsyl 
vania  makes  one  smile  at  the  author's  thoughtless  remark.  He  ap 
pears  too  amiable  to  have  intended  it  as  a  sneer.  Franklin,  from 
Philadelphia,  was  a  member  of  the  English  Royal  Society,  and  other 
learned  and  scientific  institutions,  an  LL.  D.  &c.  &c.  twenty  years 
before.  In  1750,  Latin,  Greek,  and  mathematical  schools,  were 
opened  in  the  Philadelphia  Academy,  incorporated  the  preceding  year. 
Mr.  Thompson,  afterwards  secretary  of  Congress,  and  who  was  an 
assistant  in  the  academy,  a  particular  friend  of  the  Marquis,  (and  who 
has  since  translated  the  New  Testament,)  as  well  as  Mr.  Peters,  and 
others  mentioned  by  the  author,  could  have  given  him  better  informa 
tion. 


408  ADDITIONAL  NOTES 

PAGE  122.— The  objections  to  forts  lying  in  one  state  rather  than 
another,  are  all  removed,  by  the  federal  constitution,  which,  by  making 
it  the  duty  of  Congress  to  provide  for  the  common  defence  of  the 
country,  has  given  them  all  the  powers  of  location  and  (with  the  con- 
vsent  of  the  state  legislatures)  jurisdiction  necessary  to  carry  the  pro 
per  measures  into  effect. 

PAGE  134. — The  character  of  the  Quakers,  or  Friends,  given  them 
by  Chastellux,  is  as  inapplicable  to  the  general  habits  and  principles 
of  the  society  or  sect,  as  the  deepest  shades  of  night  are  to  the  bril 
liant  gleams  of  noonday.  The  scandalous  picture  must  have  been 
drawn  from  some  outcast  individuals  of  the  denomination,  unworthy  of 
trust  or  regard  by  any  intelligent  person.  Notwithstanding  the  dis 
similarity  of  their  manners  to  the  gaiety  of  the  French  court,  a  coun 
tryman  of  the  Marquis,  but  a  few  years  after,  could  find  every  thing  to 
admire,  and  nothing  to  condemn,  in  the  Friends'  character. — See 
[Brissot  de]  Warville's  Travels,  and  his  Examination  of  Chastellux. 

PAGE  135. — The  author's  account  of  the  Quaker's  praying  on  his 
knees,  is  a  marvellous  thing  indeed,  not  known  at  the  present  day,  any 
more  than  the  sect  of  Jemima  Wilkinson,  in  Rhode-Island,  mentioned 
by  the  translator,  with  a  circumstance  equally  distant  from  delicacy 
and  truth.  Jemima  herself,  who  blasphemously  called  herself  1  AM  t 
and  marked  her  clothing  I.  A.  had  a  child  while  rambling  about  at  the 
head  of  her  followers.  They  scarcely  merited  the  name  of  a  sect  ; 
and,  making  but  few  proselytes  to  their  extravagances,  on  the  death 
of  their  Elect  Lady,  who  had  declared  herself  immortal,  dispersed  and 
soon  became  extinct.  They  should  not  be  confounded  with  the  Sha 
kers,  who  are  sedentary,  numerous,  and  comparatively,  respectable, 
notwithstanding  they  are  opposed  to  marriage  and  its  natural  conse 
quences. 

PAGE  144.— ^-For  Flowy  and  Maddison,  read  Floyd  (from  New- 
York)  and  Madison. 

PAGE  153. — Philadelphia  did  not  long  continue  to  be  "  the  great 
sink"  of  all  American  speculations.  The  reign  of  the  "quakersand 
lories"  soon  passed  away  ;  the  seat  of  government  was  removed,  and 
the  vices,  intrigues,  and  corruption  of  its  retainers  and  attendants, 
whether  of  the  court  or  camp,  (if  such  there  were,  in  the  imagination 
of  the  Marquis)  left  "  the  city  of  brotherly  love"  with  their  patrons. 
The  focus  of  monied  speculations  was  long  since  settled  in  New- 
York,  to  which  Philadelphia  has  at  length  become  second  in  wealth, 
commerce,  and  population.  It  is,  however,  a  considerable  manufac 
turing  district,  and  from  40,000  souls,  the  estimation  of  the  Marquis 
in  1782.  contained,  in  1820,  in  the  city  and  county,  136,597. 


AND  CORRECTIONS.  409 

PAGE  160. — For  Romopog,  read  Ramapaugh,  or  Ramapo1. 

PAGE  164,  note. — Londonderry  is  in  New-Hampshire,  and  1101 
Massachusetts. 

PAGES  165,  166. — For  Strasbourg!],  or  Strattsborough,  read  Staats- 
burgh  or  Staatsberg. 

PAGE  169. — The  great  chain  of  rocks,  near  Claverack,  is  not  only 
calcareous,  but  full  of  marine  shells,  although  1 30  miles  from  the  ocean. 
Where  the  traveller  then  had  to  turn  off  to  Claverack,  for  lodging,  is 
now  the  city  of  Hudson,  containing  upwards  of  5,000  inhabitants. 

PAGE  1 70,  note. — Read  Buffonic.  It  looks  too  much  now  as  if  it 
were  derived  from  buffoon,  instead  of  the  great  naturalist. 

PAGE  172,  &c. — Every  reader  will  recollect  that  the  Americans 
designate  by  the  name  of  sleigh,  the  vehicle  called  by  the  author  in  the 
Russian  phrase,  sledge. 

PAGE  174. — For  Cokes,  read  Cohoes  or  Gahoos.  The  height  of 
the  Cahoos  Falls  is  70  feet,  and  the  width  of  the  river,  at  the  bridge 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  below,  997  feet. 

PAGE  179. — Line  13,  for  highly  r  ea.d  lightly ;  and  at  note,  for  Soree 
read  Sorel. 

PAGE  1 8 1 . — For  Lake  Meida  read  Oneida. 

PAGE  186. — For  Rill  and  rill,  read  Kill  and  Mil,  signifying  creek 
with  the  Dutch. 

PAGE  191. — The  murder  of  Miss  Mac  Rea  has  been  differently  re 
lated.  The  account  most  commonly  received  is,  that  Mr.  Jones,  her 
English  lover,  having  offered  a  barrel  of  rum  to  whomsoever  should 
conduct  her  to  him,  she  was  brought  on  her  way  by  two  Indians,  who 
differing  about  the  reward,  one  of  them  settled  the  dispute  by  sinking 
his  tomahawk  into  the  head  of  their  helpless  charge. 

PAGE  192. — For  Fort  Stanwise  read  Stanwix. 

Idem. — The  cataract  of  the  Hudson,  it  is  believed,  never  found  a 
place  in  history,  before  it  was  designated  as  such  by  the  Marquis.  It 
was  called  a  ford,  or  carrying  place,  in  the  old  wars,  until  1 755,  when 
Fort  Edward  was  built  there.  The  river  being  frozen,  and  its  banks 
and  icy  surface  covered  with  snow  1 5  inches  deep,  the  rushing  of  the 
waters  in  broken  sluices  down  the  rapids,  formed  a  spectacle,  so 
novel  to  the  Marquis,  that  with  a  little  of  the  romantic  turn  of  the 
French,  he  easily  magnified  it  into  a  frightful  cataract.  At  this  place 
is  now  the  Great  Dam  of  the  Hudson,  erected  to  provide  a  feeder  to 
the  Champlain  Canal.  This  dam  is  of  somewhat  stupendous  magni 
tude,  being  27  feet  high  for  900  feet  across  the  river.  Two  miles 
above  Fort  Edward  is  Baker's  Falls,  and  3  miles  higher,  at  Glen's 

58 


410  ADDITIONAL  NOTES 

Falls,  must  be  the  cataract  meant  by  the  author.  We  here  tincl  the 
author  talking  about  the  Totohaw  [Passaic]  Falls. 
PAGE  199. — For  Quakerbush  read  Quakenbos. 
PAGE  201. — We  are  glad  to  perceive  the  Marquis  here  at  last  found 
a  beautiful  girl,  with  some  other  books  than  an  Almanac.  As  our 
author  could  find  so  few  or  no  handsome  or  elegant  women  in  Ame 
rica,  we  must  conclude  he  had  a  different  taste  from  common  people. 
He  could  not  expect  to  witness  the  luxurious  belles,  the  artificial  charms, 
the  practised  graces,  and  the  voluptuous  manners,  of  the  court  of  Ma 
rie  Antoinette.  Yet  when  he  accidentally  meets  with  such  a  rare  being 
as  an  elegant  and  accomplished  female  in  his  travels,  he  takes  care  to 
inform  us  that  she  is  frail  as  she  is  fair,  and  his  translator  comes  in  with 
his  delicate  explanations  to  support  him  ! 

PAGE  206. — The  Marquis,  in  his  rage  for  philosophical  reflections, 
has  made  another  slip.  Who  would  think,  for  the  worth  of  a  squirrel, 
with  which  our  country  is  overrun,  of  taking  the  trouble  of  cutting 
down  a  tree — if  the  tree  was  larger  than  a  hoop-pole  ! 

Idem. — For  Governor  Turnbull,  read  Trumbull,  a  character  not 
very  great  in  the  estimation  of  the  author,  however  solid  were  his  merits 
in  the  eyes  of  his  countrymen. 

PAGE  218.— At  line  16,  read  "  will  not  be,"  &c. 
PAGE  219. — What  confusion  we  have  about  names  and  swnames! 
The  dictionaries  tell  us  that  surname  is  at  the  same  time  the  original 
or  family  name,  and  also  the  name  added  to  the  name  of  the  family  : 
so  that  of  the  two  names  by  which  a  man  is  known,  both  the  first  and 
last  are  surnames.  The  custom  in  New-England,  and  most  parts  of 
the  United  States,  is  simple,  distinct,  and  intelligible.  The  first  is  the 
given  or  Christian  name,  given  at  baptism,  as  George,  John,  or  Tho 
mas,  and  the  second  is  the  surname,  the  patronymick  or  family  name. 
as  Washington,  Adams,  or  Jefferson.  Surname  is  not  applied,  as 
by  lexicographers,  to  both  names.  Convenience,  the  origin  of  all 
grammatical  rules,  is  necessarily  preferred  to  theory. 

PAGE  221.— In  Virginia,  in  1820,  were  603,597  whites,  and  461,769 

blacks,  total  1,065,366 — a  number  that  would  now  astonish  the  author 

and  his  translator,  were  they  living  to  witness  the  fact. 

PAGE  236. — Last  line,  for  unexamined  read  unexampled. 

PAGE  242.— The  lofty  banks  of  the  Potomac  (in  the  translator's  note) 

excites  a  smile  in  persons  accustomed  to  the  view  of  northern  rivers. 

The  translator  had  not  been  with  the  author,  at  the  Highlands,  &c.  of 

the  Hudson,  or  he  would  have  spared  the  ironical  epithet.     The  town 

is  290  miles  from  the  sea,  but  is  not  yet  "  become  one  of  the  first 

cities  of  the  new  world,"  its  growth  being  prevented  by  Georgetown 


AND  CORRECTIONS.  411 

and  Washington  City,  erected  within  a  distance  of  8  miles.  Wash 
ington  had  a  population,  in  1820,  of  13,247,  and  has  rapidly  increased  ; 
Georgetown  had  7,360  ;  and  Alexandria  8,218. 

PAGE  244. — How  a  mill-stream  was  the  only  cellar  of  its  owner, 
does  not  readily  appear.  It  could  not  be  a  store-house.  The  author 
doubtless  alluded  to  the  cellarist  or  butler  of  a  convent  or  religious 
house,  who  furnishes  the  drink  to  its  inmates  ;  the  stream,  in  this  case, 
was  the  only  liquor-vault,  as  well  as  bath,  of  the  landlord,  as  we  may 
gather  from  the  Italian  quotation. 

The  delicate  choice  of  subjects  in  some  of  the  notes  of  the  transla 
tor,  forbids  our  attracting  more  notice  to  them  by  any  remarks. 

PAGE  249. — The  appellation  of  the  "  country  of  the  curious,"  given  by 
the  translator,  appertains  to  New-England  exclusively.  It  is  improper 
to  apply  Franklin's,  remarks  on  the  road  to  Boston,  to  a  journey 
through  Virginia. 

PAGE  251. — The  translator  is  mistaken  in  designating  the  best  kind 
of  oak  for  ship-building.  For  firmness,  strength,  and  durability,  the 
Live-Oak  of  the  southern  sea-coast  is  long  established  as  decidedly 
and  materially  superior  to  every  other  species. 

PAGE  252. — Kentucky  was  admitted  as  a  state  in  the  Union,  as  the 
translator  expected,  and  in  1820  contained  564,317  inhabitants. 

PAGE  256. — We  congratulate  the  author,  after  the  pleasure  he  de 
rived  from  the  discovery  of  the  singular  and  beautiful  rnocking-bird, 
the  thrush,  the  wild  turkey,  the  roebuck,  the  marmoset,  and  other 
interesting  animals,  on  his  at  last  meeting  with  a  beautiful  woman  ; 
and  hope  his  acquaintance  and  opinion  of  our  countrywomen  improved. 

PAGE  259. — The  translator  says  mighty  little,  &c.  are  favourite  ex 
pressions  in  America.  No  such  thing  is  known,  but  in  Virginia,  and 
some  of  the  western  states. 

PAGE  260. — The  women  have  become  "  far  from  handsome"  again. 
But  in  263,  another  beautiful  woman  was  found,  but  with  as  many 
general  reflections,  by  way  of  drawback,  as  Dr.  Johnson  would  have 
made.  At  267,  in  Petersburg,  the  author  met  another  beauty,  and 
indeed  a  second  and  quite  accomplished  lady,  the  descendant  of  an 
Indian  princess.  But  Mrs.  Bowling  was  more  distinguished,  it  seems, 
by  her  amiable  disposition,  (a  quality  the  Marquis  found  so  rare  in  the 
American  ladies)  than  by  "  her  exterior  beauty." 

PAGE  273. — The  translator  as  well  as  the  author,  frequently  display 
an  unkind  feeling  towards  Philadelphia  and  its  quaker  features.  Yet 
Major  Butler  ultimately  settled  there,  and  passed  his  last  years  there 
in  prosperity  and  the  first  respectability,  as  a  Senator  in  Congress  from 
Georgia,  U.  S.  Bank  director  &c. 


412  ADDITIONAL  NOTES 

PAGE  274. — Read  Appomattox ;  the  spelling  not  so  material  wheu 
it  sufficiently  designates  the  place,  as  in  the  case  of  many  other  names 
we  have  passed  with  incorrect  orthography. 

PAGE  282. — The  translator's  note  helps  the  text  to  a  pretty  good 
Jish  story ;  but  it  is  rather  odd  to  style  a  fish  so  common  in  both  hemi 
spheres  a  monster,  and  so  common  a  monster,  too,  that  thousands  of 
them  may  be  seen  at  once  !  The  sturgeon  is  not  considered  a  monster 
at  Albany,  where  the  people  are  neither  too  indolent  to  catch  them,  nor 
too  ignorant  to  make  very  palatable  food  of  their  flesh.  Indeed,  it  is 
really  singular  that  a  fish  so  well  known,  and  breeding  in  such  "  ama 
zing  numbers"  in  the  lakes  and  rivers  of  Europe,  and  furnishing  such 
valuable  materials  for  commerce  as  their  flesh,  caviar,  and  isinglass, 
should  have  been  so  great  a  stranger  to  writers  so  intelligent  and  well 
informed  in  general.  Buffon  and  Goldsmith  could  have  taught  them 
better. 

PAGE  290,  note. — Read,  the  river  Cape  Fear  or  Clarendon.  The 
population  of  North-Carolina,  in  1820,  was  419,200  whites,  and 
219,629  blacks,  total  638,829.  The  state  has  in  reality,  "  become  not 
one  of  the  least  on  the  continent." 

PAGE  292. — For  wane  read  wan,  and  for  land  read  lands. 

PAGE  293,  note. — Goudging  [gouging]  has  been  a  savage  practice 
in  the  wilds  of  Virginia,  but  long  since  vanished  before  the  influence 
of  law  and  refinements  of  civilization.  In  a  residence  in  that  state 
of  some  years,  scarcely  an  instance  can  be  recollected  of  seeing  the 
want  of  an  eye  by  gouging,  or  any  more  countenance  given  to  the 
custom  than  to  shooting,  stabbing,  cutting,  or  any  unlawful  maiming, 
which  are  prohibited  as  all  other  felonies.  Enough,  however,  of  that 
brutality  has  existed  in  the  southern  and  western  states,  (when  colo 
nies)  to  give  foundation  to  the  charge,  and  from  its  singular  atrocity  to 
secure  its  recital  by  unfriendly  or  careless  writers. 

PAGE  295. — "The  negroes  in  Virginia  amount,"  in  1820,  to 
401,264,  and  the  whites  to  603,597.  The  remark  on  the  difference 
of  colour  between  the  slaves  of  ancient  and  modern  times,  is  highly 
important,  and  not  sufficiently  attended  to  in  our  discussions  of  the 
subject  in  free  states.  Some  of  our  most  wealthy  and  respectable 
citizens,  being  white,  have  been  sold  as  slaves  (for  a  term)  for  their 
passage  to  this  country,  and  afterwards  found  their  way  into  the  state 
legislatures  and  congress.  But  of  free  blacks,  there  seems  to  be 
an  everlasting  and  insurmountable  barrier  in  the  colour  alone,  to 
their  full  enjoyment  of  all  the  rights  and  advantages  of  white  society. 
It  will  perhaps  be  as  difficult  to  establish  their  claim  to  physical  or 
moral  equality  with  our  species,  as  to  convince  us  that  their  ideas  of 


AND  CORRECTIONS.  41^ 

beauty  in  the  human  figure  and  countenance  are  founded  on  as  just 
principles  of  taste  as  ours.  If  our  Creator  has  furnished  us  with  a 
skin,  features,  hair,  &c.  different  from  theirs,  and  which  we  shall  pro 
bably  always  consider  superior,  it  will  ever  be  difficult  to  reconcile 
their  moral  or  political  elevation  to  our  habits,  our  feelings,  or  our 
convictions,  either  of  their  capacity,  their  merits,  or  their  natural  rank 
in  the  scale  of  creation.  Entitled  originally  to  inherent  rights,,  mixed 
with  whites  they  can  never  enjoy  them.  With  all  the  political  equality 
established  by  our  constitutions,  and  the  eligibility  (in  some  states)  of 
all  to  office,  we  do  not  choose  the  ignorant,  the  depraved,  the  weak, 
the  unfortunate,  the  female,  nor  the  black,  to  legislate  for  us,  or  to  rule 
over  us.  It  is  net  until  "  the  Ethiopian  change  his  skin,"  that  he  will 
be  able  to  participate  in  all  the  social  enjoyments  secured  to  him  by 
any  human  laws,  in  a  white  population.  Physical  difference  and 
moral  inferiority,  can  never  be  counterbalanced  by  the  theory  of  politi 
cal  equality. 

PAGES  298,  299.  — That  judges  and  lawyers,  as  well  as  the  clergy, 
are  excluded  from  all  share  in  the  government  of  this  country,  is  a 
most  singular  and  important  error  of  the  Marquis,  and  almost  unac 
countable,  when  we  recollect  that  most  of  the  active  and  influential 
public  characters  of  his  acquaintance  had  been  bred  to  the  law  or  bar. 
One  half  or  two  thirds  of  the  members  of  congress  and  the  legisla 
tures  of  the  United  States  are  lawyers,  to  a  degree  of  proverbial 
complaint.  The  "  separate  Judicial  Body"  mentioned  by  the  writer, 
is  the  Judiciary  department  of  the  government  in  its  actual  administra 
tion,  which  is  wisely  kept  separate  from  the  Legislative  arid  Executive 
branches,  that  their  different  and  distinct  powers  may  riot  be  united 
and  consolidated  into  despotism,  nor  blended  and  confounded  into 
anarchy.  The  judges  of  the  superior  courts,  whose  province  it  is  to 
interpret  the  laws,  and  decide  on  their  constitutionality,  alone  are  ex 
cluded  from  enacting  them  as  legislators.  The  great  body  of  lawyers, 
for  reasons  which  readily  suggested  themselves  to  the  author,  who 
mistook  them  for  the  Bench,  or  disqualified  "judicial  body,"  have 
more  agency  and  weight  in  managing  elections  and  the  affairs  of  go 
vernment,  than  any  other  class  or  denomination  of  citizens  (and  in 
many  districts  more  than  all  the  others  together,)  in  the  country. 

PAGE  304. — Here  we  are  first  introduced  to  the  famous  Talleyrand, 
who  has  subsequently  acted  so  conspicuous  a  part  in  the  European 
world.  His  enthusiasm  in  the  cause  of  the  United  States,  his  service 
as  a  volunteer  in  the  ranks  of  the  army,  and  his  travels  in  the  country 
since  the  war,  were  highly  conducive  to  his  knowledge  of  the  Ameri- 


414  ADDITIONAL  NOTES 

can  character  and  interests,  with  which  his  diplomatic  vocations  have 
been  so  much  connected. 

Idem. — For  hog-house  read  log-house. 

PAGE  306. — The  text  should  have  stated  the  pound  only,  or  added 
that  it  was  of  fourteen  (nearer  15)  French  ounces  ;  the  English  pound 
of  16  ounces  being  equal  to  only  14|  ounces  French.  The  translation 
should  have  given  us  nothing  but  English  weights  and  measures.  The 
English  pound  is  as  109  to  100  French  ;  and  the  fathom,  or  French 
toise,is  as  6  feet  English  to  6.0789  French,  or  6  feet  4f  inches. 

PAGE  3 1 0.— Read  JVJr.  Buckminster.  3 1 1 ,  For  Bittery,  read  Kittery. 
PAGE  312. — The  anecdote  of  Col.  Langdon  and  the  negro  is  excel 
lently  characteristic.  A  regiment  of  blacks  (with  white  officers,)  was 
raised  in  Rhode-Island,  and  served  well  through  the  war,  at  the  end  of 
which  they  found  themselves  very  properly  rewarded  by  their  personal 
freedom,  for  their  aid  in  defending  and  securing  the  national  liberty. 

PAGE  313. — The  anticipations  of  Portsmouth  becoming  a  great  na 
val  depot,  have  not  been  realized.  It  is  too  far  distant  from  the  seat  of 
government  and  centre  of  commerce  and  naval  resources.  Although 
we  have  a  number  of  navy-yards,  the  Portsmouth  of  England  has  as 
yet  been  found  at  New- York. 

PAGE  314. — The  text  is  unintelligible  again,  without  recollecting 
that  the  translation  of  the  money  concerns  of  the  writer  into  English, 
(excepting  when  otherwise  designated,)  has  been  into  sterling  account. 
And  in  this  page,  line  22,  for  corn  we  should  read  wheat. 

PAGE  315. — The  remarks  and  calculations  extracted  from  Jeffer 
son's  Notes,  prove  the  sagacity  and  judgment  of  that  profound  philo 
sopher  and  practical  statesman,  more  fully,  than  any  political  spe 
culations  which  have  appeared  from  his  pen.  The  events  of  the  war 
of  1812 — 15,  realized  his  predictions  with  remarkable  exactness. 

PAGE  323. — The  author  is  sorry  to  say  that  the  Americans  do  not 
dance  minuets  so  well  as  the  French — others  would  be  sorry  if  they 
did — so  tastes  differ. 

PAGE  328.— For  Milk  read  Mill-Pond.  Our  land  did  not  literally 
flow  with  milk  and  honey,  noi  were  our  lakes  or  ponds  filled  with 
milk,  in  the  time  of  the  Marquis  or  his  translator. 

PAGE  332. — The  author,  in  describing  Cambridge,  finds  himself  at 
what  has  since  been  denominated  'by  flattery,)  "  the  literary  empo 
rium  of  America,"  among  a  people,  the  Bostonians,  whom  he  really 
thinks  are  "  friends  to  good  wine,  good  <iheer,  and  hospitality,' '  not 
withstanding  they  are  awkward  at  a  minuet.  This  is  much  better  than 
he  thought  of  Philadelphia,  where  he  supposed  they  studied  nothing 
in  astronomy  but  an  almanac,  and  the  women  did  not  read.  He  has 


AND  CORitECTlOJNS.  415 

tbund  also  (by  good  luck,)  some  handsome  women  in  Boston,  and  a 
variety  of  elegant  and  refined  enjoyments.  But  alas,  he  makes  a  dis 
covery,  and  the  translator  confirms  it,  that  the  inhabitants  are  fond  of 
high  play,  and  much  addicted  to  gambling  !  This  from  a  resident  of 
Paris,  where  gaming-houses  are  recognized  and  licensed  by  law,  might 
lead  one  to  think  the  practice  might  have  been  introduced  by  the  French 
officers,  at  their  nightly  parties  and  clubs,  rather  than  originating  in 
native  dissipation  and  propensities.  The  English  translator,  also, 
there  is  no  reason  to  doubt,  had  seen  too  much  of  the  evils  of  gambling 
in  his  own  country,  not  to  deprecate  its  prevalence  or  appearance  in 
this.  Its  effects  are  horrible,  every  where  ;  but  we  have  reason  to 
congratulate  ourselves  that  we  are  still  at  a  great  distance  behind  the 
licentiousness,  the  profligacy,  and  the  vices  of  European  courts,  what 
ever  of  their  fashionable  follies  we  have  adopted,  and  of  their  vices  we 
have  partly  imitated.  When  the  French  and  English  charge  us  with  a 
spirit  ot  gambling,  we  may  well  suspect  something  is  wrong.  In  this 
case,  we  may  conscientiously  suggest  the  old  proverb,  "  When  the  fox 
preaches,"  &c. 

PAGE  341.— Line  22,  For  Ckeat,  read  Kakiat. 

PAGE  343. — For  toises,  line  13,  read  fathoms,  and  for  their  length 
see  the  preceding  note  on  page  306. 

PAGES  344,  345. — The  Moravians  are  a  sect  of  Christians,  so  distin 
guished  by  the  purity  of  their  manners,  the  scrupulous  morality  of  their 
principles,  and  the  virtuous  and  benevolent  effects  of  their  doctrines 
and  example,  that  children  of  the  most  rigid  of  other  denominations 
are  sent  to  them  for  education.     If  sectarians  are  driven  by  the  vio 
lence  of  despotic  governments  into  extreme  fanaticism,  it  is  not  so  in 
a  country,  where  "  error  of  opinion  may  be  safely  tolerated,  when 
reason  is  left  free  to  combat  it."     In  the  United  States,  where  no  se 
parate  church  or  denomination  is  established  by  law,  many  of  the  sin 
gularities  and  asperities  of  the  most  heterodox  persuasions  or  sects. 
have  vanished  before  the  liberty  of  discussion,  the  friendly  interchange 
of  sentiment,  and  the  harmony  of  social  intercourse.     Many  of  the 
rites  and  practices  formerly  imputed  to  the  strange  schismatics  which 
sprung  up  in  every  country  where  they  are  permitted  to  exist,  are  now 
matters  of  recollection  only,  and  no  part  of  present  faith  or  practice. 
PAGE  346,  note. — For  National  read  Natural  Bridge. 
PAGE  349. — Mr.  Pinckney,  in  his  subsequent  history,  as  a  public 
writer,  member  of  congress,  minister  in  foreign  courts,  &c.  has  fully 
justified  the  translator's  expectations. 

PAGE  353,  note. — For  Lecha,  read  Lehigh,  at  present  one  of  the 
most  abundant  and  profitable  regions  of  mineral  coal,  found  in  Penn 
sylvania. 


4Iti  ADDITIONAL  NOTES,  &c. 

PAGES  355. 356. — In  the  description  of  the  Natural  Bridge,  the  points 
called  Amont  and  Aval,  we  presume  have  reference  to  the  plans  or 
maps  furnished  to  the  author,  but  which  do  not  appear  in  his  book. 

PAGE  358. — For  Potama,  read  Potomac. 

PAGE  359,  note. — Line  6,  read  disrupture  and  convulsion. 

PAGE  362.— Line  13,  for  Cordelliers,  read  Cordilleras. 

PAGE  365. — Line  5  from  bottom,  for  satient  read  salient. 

PAGE  370. — Mr.  Madison,  since  President,  still  lives  in  the  possession 
of  all  the  "eloquence,  wisdom,  and  genius,"  he  has  so  usefully  dis 
played  in  the  service  of  his  country. 

PAGE  373. — The  author  was  incorrect  in  his  anticipation  of  the 
direction  in  which  the  stream  of  population  would  extend.  It  is  lite 
rally  a  fact  in  the  United  States,  in  their  general  and  their  relative  situ 
ation,  that 

"  Westward  the  tide  of  empire  rolls." 

Natives  of  Connecticut,  and  New-England  generally,  peopling  the 
western  part  of  New-York,  the  States  of  Ohio,  and  districts  still  farther 
west  and  south,  not  only  decide  the  elections,  but  form,  in  many 
cases,  nine  tenths  of  the  adult  population. 

PAGE  383. — Bottom  line,  French  censure,  is  Censor,  or  licenser  of 
the  press  in  France. 

PAGE  384. — The  statue  of  Montgomery,  with  an  additional  inscrip 
tion,  on  bringing  the  remains  of  the  deceased  from  the  place  of  their 
interment,  is  viewed  with  interest,  by  strangers  and  citizens,  in  the 
front  of  St.  Paul's  Church,  in  New- York. 

PAGE  388. — Line  16  from  bottom,  for  meeting  read  mutiny. 

PAGE  393. — Line  11,  for  L'Enfort,  read  L?  Enfant. 


THE  END. 


ETURN 


OAN  PERIOD  ' 


* 


I  U     OD  /    I  C. 


M16431.6 


cs- 


THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


, 


